About to go through this whole process on my 1979 Ford Bronco front Dana 44. Most in depth set of videos on RUclips on this job. Thanks for your work and showing us how to do it step by step. Not an easy or fun job, but made 100% easier with your video series. Appreciated and subbed.
Man after searching and searching and searching and searching.......more searching and searching and searching..comparing Google pictures after picture after picture after picture after picture. FINALLY,I've found what my 2000 Tahoe axle is now. THANK YOU man,I bought a 2000 Tahoe with a big lift and axle swap,Well my driver spindle is shot..but I need to know what axle it us to know what to look for for the spindle. And also now I know the spindle will unboldt and just get a new spindle not the whole degum assembly. You have no idea the relief of finding this video just gave me. Thanks.
@@BlackLabGarage the greaseable U-joints being weaker. Also about the shims making the carrier easier to fall out or harder. The ones I’ve pulled out weren’t stuck, nor had a lot of slack in them.
@@davesbroncogarage Oh yeah...you will never see me use a greaseable u joint unless I have no other option. I had a 1978 Bronco that I built a 460 for, had 4:56 gears, 2800 stall converter, and 38.5x15.50 super swampers and I could pull out and lay into it and snap those greaseable u joints. I switched to Spicer non greasable forged u joints and couldn't snap them like that.
sometimes its luck of the draw on the carrier coming out easy or not. At the factory they use a spreader that spreads the housing to make shim installation easier. I guess it depends on how much it spreads and the shims as to whther it comes out easy or not.
Thanks a lot for the vid. About to do this on my F250. I really like the FirmGrip gloves from HD. They're about $10-$15 but decent dexterity. I bought Milwaukee gloves for a while. They're nice but not worth $20, as you know decent gloves last 1-4 weeks. And I have to say, you're absolutely right about spending money, especially when you're on a multi day job. It's like a head gasket job. Last thing you want to do is all that work, fire up the engine and have a coolant leak. Just subscribed.
I'll have to order some of those gloves online and give them a try. We don't have a Home Depot in my town unfortunately. Thank You for your subscription!
And now this axle came only in 78 under the ford f150 4x4?. Or did it also come in the bronco. 76-79. This is the only video I've found where your axle is exactly like mine..right there on each side of your shock bracket witch yours is painted black but mine are red..I can't even find them in Google pictures..are these rare axles or somethin.
The Dana 44 front axle was first used by Ford in 1971, although 1975 and back axles used drum brakes. 1976 thru 1979 used disc brakes. They were used in the small Broncos thru 1977 and in the full size bronco's in 1978 and 1979. They were also used in F-150's and F-250's from 1971 thru 1979. Although the F-250 used larger disc brakes and had eight lug wheels which means from the steering knuckle out is different than the 1/2 ton dana 44 axle but they can be interchanged.
@@BlackLabGarage Dana 44 was used in the small Broncos from '72 until the end of the "early Bronco" in '77. Prior to that (1966-1971) the little Broncos used Dana 30's... just for clarifictaion.
Thank You for your kind words. I got those from a 1977 Thunderbird. Several years will work for the calipers as long as its the big square 1970's thunderbird.
When i pull that axle out,It just goes back in,It'll fall in it self or got to kindle twist it to.make it. Got to.replace mine,Bearings busted and buggard the splines up bad when the hub came loose.
Now why the hell didn’t I think to paint the knuckle before I pressed in my ball joints?! You ought to have another jack stand on the drivers side, wouldn’t trust just the jack.
Good video. Just wondering what you did with the pre load adjuster nut. It seems you either didn’t know it was there or didn’t have one ? It’s located at the top ball joint thread. As you take the castle nut off look down inside there is a nut that requires a mother special 4 prong tool. What happened there ?? Cheers
I adjusted it per the manual. Unfortunately the camera didn't catch me adjusting it. You can hear me talking about it but you can't see it. Yes I have the 4 prong socket. Mine is a Snap On socket since on the cheap ones the prongs bend rather easily.
@@IDKWTFID thats a ball joint press I got from Harbor Freight. www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-63279.html?_br_psugg_q=ball+joint+press
It is a Rough Country lift. The reason I got it was my stock rear leaf springs was worn out from pulling my 18ft trailer loaded all the time. Stock replacement rear leaf springs was $300 a piece. Or, I could get the 2.5" Rough Country kit with new rear leaf springs, new coil springs, shocks, C bushings, and drop track bar bracket for $649. I didn't have to think long on that one lol. I like the kit although it does ride a little bit rougher. I think it's because the rear leaf springs in the Rough Country kit does away with the factory lift blocks and bolts straight to the axle. I also noticed when I got my kit the rear leaf springs had a sticker that said F-150/F-250 on it. So they must use the same spring for both. For the money though, you can't beat their lift kit. I will probably go to a 4" lift before too long since I do not use this truck to pull that trailer anymore. More for looks than anything. It clears 35x12.50's just fine with the 2.5" lift.
The Tires are 33 x 12.50 for now. The lift is a 2.5" Rough Country. It didn't need to be lifted to clear those but the reason I did was the rear leaf springs had gotten weak and two stock replacement rear leaf spings was $300 and the whole lift kit with new springs all the way around and shocks from Rough Country was $650 at the time. Plus the Rough Country springs do away with the factory lift blocks.
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Nice job on the camera work and close-ups. Very helpful, thanks.
@@thaddeusrex1 Thank you for your kind words! I’m glad you found it helpful.
About to go through this whole process on my 1979 Ford Bronco front Dana 44. Most in depth set of videos on RUclips on this job. Thanks for your work and showing us how to do it step by step. Not an easy or fun job, but made 100% easier with your video series. Appreciated and subbed.
Thank you for your kind words and subscription!
Man after searching and searching and searching and searching.......more searching and searching and searching..comparing Google pictures after picture after picture after picture after picture.
FINALLY,I've found what my 2000 Tahoe axle is now.
THANK YOU man,I bought a 2000 Tahoe with a big lift and axle swap,Well my driver spindle is shot..but I need to know what axle it us to know what to look for for the spindle.
And also now I know the spindle will unboldt and just get a new spindle not the whole degum assembly.
You have no idea the relief of finding this video just gave me.
Thanks.
You're welcome
Props for doing it out on the driveway in winter!
@@TanquerayTom64 oh it gets even better. I got Covid while rebuilding it in the driveway in the wintertime lol.
Great video. Damn though! I'm more intimidated with the job now than before I watched the video. I might have to hire a pro. 🤔
It's not that bad of a job. You can do it.
Thank you so much!!!..your video gave me confidence on taking on my new project 1974 f100 . Keep them great videos coming brother.
Thank you for your kind words! I've got more videos coming.
Awesome video. I’ve done this half a dozen times but learned something new.
What did you learn? I just subscribed to you. I have a soft spot for 1978-1979 Broncos. I've had a few of them.
@@BlackLabGarage the greaseable U-joints being weaker. Also about the shims making the carrier easier to fall out or harder. The ones I’ve pulled out weren’t stuck, nor had a lot of slack in them.
@@davesbroncogarage Oh yeah...you will never see me use a greaseable u joint unless I have no other option. I had a 1978 Bronco that I built a 460 for, had 4:56 gears, 2800 stall converter, and 38.5x15.50 super swampers and I could pull out and lay into it and snap those greaseable u joints. I switched to Spicer non greasable forged u joints and couldn't snap them like that.
sometimes its luck of the draw on the carrier coming out easy or not. At the factory they use a spreader that spreads the housing to make shim installation easier. I guess it depends on how much it spreads and the shims as to whther it comes out easy or not.
Thanks a lot for the vid. About to do this on my F250. I really like the FirmGrip gloves from HD. They're about $10-$15 but decent dexterity. I bought Milwaukee gloves for a while. They're nice but not worth $20, as you know decent gloves last 1-4 weeks. And I have to say, you're absolutely right about spending money, especially when you're on a multi day job. It's like a head gasket job. Last thing you want to do is all that work, fire up the engine and have a coolant leak. Just subscribed.
I'll have to order some of those gloves online and give them a try. We don't have a Home Depot in my town unfortunately. Thank You for your subscription!
Thank you for sharing!
You’re welcome!
Thanks for that video man, I have to do my 77 f150.
I subscribed to your channel 👍🏻
You're welcome! Thank you for your subscription!
Thanks man for videoing this.
You're Welcome!
Great Video Thanks brother
You're welcome!
Awesome bideo
Thank You
Doing a dana 44 swap in a 1991 f150. You don't know how great full I am 🤣🤣😁
You're welcome! I hope it helps you out and good luck with your swap!
The 4 point socket is a 2 3/8".
And now this axle came only in 78 under the ford f150 4x4?.
Or did it also come in the bronco. 76-79.
This is the only video I've found where your axle is exactly like mine..right there on each side of your shock bracket witch yours is painted black but mine are red..I can't even find them in Google pictures..are these rare axles or somethin.
The Dana 44 front axle was first used by Ford in 1971, although 1975 and back axles used drum brakes. 1976 thru 1979 used disc brakes. They were used in the small Broncos thru 1977 and in the full size bronco's in 1978 and 1979. They were also used in F-150's and F-250's from 1971 thru 1979. Although the F-250 used larger disc brakes and had eight lug wheels which means from the steering knuckle out is different than the 1/2 ton dana 44 axle but they can be interchanged.
@@BlackLabGarage Dana 44 was used in the small Broncos from '72 until the end of the "early Bronco" in '77. Prior to that (1966-1971) the little Broncos used Dana 30's... just for clarifictaion.
I commented 1971 above but I guess technically it would be the middle of 1971 when the Dana 44 first appeared@@tinbender85
What year ford thunderbird is the caliper off of?? Great video 🙌🏻👍🏻
Thank You for your kind words. I got those from a 1977 Thunderbird. Several years will work for the calipers as long as its the big square 1970's thunderbird.
Very great video , just wondering how you pulled the inside seals
I took a long like 1"x1"piece of wood and stuck it in the axle tube from the steering knuckle side and just knocked them out.
When i pull that axle out,It just goes back in,It'll fall in it self or got to kindle twist it to.make it.
Got to.replace mine,Bearings busted and buggard the splines up bad when the hub came loose.
Now why the hell didn’t I think to paint the knuckle before I pressed in my ball joints?!
You ought to have another jack stand on the drivers side, wouldn’t trust just the jack.
Good video. Just wondering what you did with the pre load adjuster nut. It seems you either didn’t know it was there or didn’t have one ? It’s located at the top ball joint thread. As you take the castle nut off look down inside there is a nut that requires a mother special 4 prong tool. What happened there ?? Cheers
I adjusted it per the manual. Unfortunately the camera didn't catch me adjusting it. You can hear me talking about it but you can't see it. Yes I have the 4 prong socket. Mine is a Snap On socket since on the cheap ones the prongs bend rather easily.
You mentioned your brake caliper was off of a Thunderbird. What year of bird did it come from?
I believe they are from a 1977 model Thunderbird. Maybe I should do a video on the brake upgrades I've did to it.
@@BlackLabGarage thank you, I might have to look into doing that to my 76 F150 one day!
The thunderbird caliper has 3 1/16" pistons whereas the F-150 piston is 2 7/8". It's pretty good difference@@cleonclink6811
What size is the allen for hub?
I will check and see what size it is when I get home this evening.
They are 1/8” Allen
What year Thunderbird brake caliper?
I believe I looked up a 1978 model Thunderbird but any of the big 70's models Thunderbirds will have that caliper on it.
What tool
Was that that u used for the ball joints
You mean the one to set the upper ball joint preload?
@@BlackLabGarage the tool that looked like a c clamp that pushed the ball joint in and out
@@IDKWTFID thats a ball joint press I got from Harbor Freight.
www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-63279.html?_br_psugg_q=ball+joint+press
Great job, I’ll be referencing it several time when I rebuild my Bronco 44 😀 Is that a 4” Rancho/Rough county lift? How do you like it?
It is a Rough Country lift. The reason I got it was my stock rear leaf springs was worn out from pulling my 18ft trailer loaded all the time. Stock replacement rear leaf springs was $300 a piece. Or, I could get the 2.5" Rough Country kit with new rear leaf springs, new coil springs, shocks, C bushings, and drop track bar bracket for $649. I didn't have to think long on that one lol. I like the kit although it does ride a little bit rougher. I think it's because the rear leaf springs in the Rough Country kit does away with the factory lift blocks and bolts straight to the axle. I also noticed when I got my kit the rear leaf springs had a sticker that said F-150/F-250 on it. So they must use the same spring for both. For the money though, you can't beat their lift kit. I will probably go to a 4" lift before too long since I do not use this truck to pull that trailer anymore. More for looks than anything. It clears 35x12.50's just fine with the 2.5" lift.
Wats the lift and tire size on the truck?
The Tires are 33 x 12.50 for now. The lift is a 2.5" Rough Country. It didn't need to be lifted to clear those but the reason I did was the rear leaf springs had gotten weak and two stock replacement rear leaf spings was $300 and the whole lift kit with new springs all the way around and shocks from Rough Country was $650 at the time. Plus the Rough Country springs do away with the factory lift blocks.
I might go to a set of 35's later on
Will 35s rub with the 2.5 lift?
@@soldierpaige2554 They shouldn't unless you are at an extreme angle or something. I have actually ran a used set of 35 x 12.50's on it with no lift.
That F150 suspension looks awful similar to modern ('05+) suspension... Funny how that works.
Well they do say that everything old becomes new again lol