Regulating A Seiko And Pagani Design As Accurately As A Rolex?

How perfect can we get these two budget watches with a few minutes of adjustment and our Timegrapher? Let's find out! Here I'll adjust the beat error and rate of my Seiko and Pagani Design watches that were significantly more off than the rest of my collection. One was fast, the other slow.
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[@ZWolfgang]

Regulating to 0 SPD with dial down on the Time Grapher will not ensure that the watch will run at 0 SPD when worn on your wrist, as the rate changes with each change in position of the watch. What you need to do is determine how the watch is running on your wrist for a few days, then adjust the rate to compensate. On the TimeGrapher, you may find that, perhaps, +4 SPD reading will result in close to 0 SPD when worn on your wrist. You will have to experiment to determine what rate on the TimeGrapher translates to the best time keeping when the watch is on your wrist.

[@AmazonasBiotop]

I am far from a expert. But when I were into watches I remembered that it is most likely that Seiko adjust their movements slightly fast, when we talk about the low end movements.
But that makes me think that it is not that much difference between a Seiko low end and a higher end or "finer" movement.
The principle and almost all parts are the same. Yes there is a slightly diffrences but overall to 95% to 99% they're in practice the same.
The low end of the Seiko spectrum is PROBABLY today as good as high end were 40 years ago.
Another tell is that they can consistently adjust this movements as you experiencing to running fast in the +15s ±X range.
I mean you don't find a new Seiko that is running -15s slow! In other words they are accurate with very low fluctuation (stable).
So I strongly suspect that the low end movements of today are much better than they "need" to be. In that sense that Seiko could if they wanted adjust them much closer to ±0s/d than +16s/d that they PROBABLY are setting them deliberately at because of their price point.
And that has nothing to do with the movement at all. It is probably most likely that otherwise it is harder to motivate and being able to sell higher end movements for Seiko.
So it is most likely a business decision that putting "restrictions" on the lower end movements deliberately.
But deliberately adjust them slightly faster and faster the lower end the movement is in their lineup (we should remember that they sell the movements also to other watch manufacturers.)
Those movements are assembled by robots and has a incredible precision and accuracy. With very low variability totally aromatically.
If you could adjust the movement in 5 min as you said in the video.
Then how many seconds will it take for a robot that has the same microphone attached to a freshly made movement to adjust it automatically without any need to fiddle with a case.. ..and the management decide how fast it should put it depending on what movement it is.
That is a good thing for us that are able to adjust the movements so they run as good as they actually deserve and have the capacity to do. 🥂

[@drmanhattan225]

I just bought an SPB153 and it's been running like a charm. On the wrist it's a bit fast, but I set it down each night 3 up and it's consistently coming out around +2 spd. In spite of that I want to learn how to regulate it in case when it comes to servicing, Seiko go and 'mess things up'.

[@AlexStypik]

As far as the Pagani goes, do you think there is a way to remove the secondary glass or plastic with the logo? I personally think it would look better if they removed that and put just logo on movement , not a secondary plastic or glass behind the front glass. I am curious if you think it's removable, as I will try to do so on mine.

[@andrebalsa203]

I would suggest demagnetizing all your watches before any attempt at regulating them. That would avoid some "bizarre" measurements such as you got with the Pagani Design automatic.

[@tk423b]

I’ve got a 6R15 with a delta of 30spd. +15 on wrist and -15 in my stand. It’s a mess.

[@barrettdannemiller5763]

Love this watch trend on your channel.

[@COGuyStuff]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@apj5763]

Have you compared your real world accuracy with the timegrapher data? I’d be curious how much variance there is between the two

[@endurojimmy3109]

I used an app which I found worked really well.
However, whenI put case back on, the rate and beat error charged slightly.
Saying that, it's gaining absolute 10 seconds a day, so I can live with that as it was losing 60 seconds a day previously.

[@joshwanglj]

Great video, I am interested in getting into regulating my own watches as the authorized dealers charge exorbitantly for something so simple. Optimize makes a good point on companies 'restriction on lower end movements' to justify 'being able to sell higher end movements', I am intrigued. Could you just check in a couple months time if the rate and beat error recurs? It could be that lower end tends to not keep time consistently (they revert back to some rate/beat error) compared to high end movement (more likely to hold the rate/beat settings), and I would like to see if that was the case.

[@COGuyStuff]

Everything is still spot on, everything in the winder is good :)

[@bidipbo]

It's not that simple, this guy is not 'regulating' the movement. Proper regulation involves disassembly to the point of removing the balance wheel works. Degaussing the hairspring is an initial step, in the likelihood of finding a hairspring not made of glucydur, nivarox or silicium. Examination of the hairspring horizontally and vertically for uniformity of spacing and X axis conformity follow. Then, if no deformity is discovered and corrected, proper regulation follows. After observing the movement of the hairspring between the regulator slot and the curb (or curb and boot) pins Proper regulation involves the cinching or releasing of the hairspring between the pins slot and if necessary, the stud. And, this regulation procedure only refers to Tompion or Bosley regulators. I left a few parts out that occur when there are more involved problems, but you get the idea. It is worth the money, coz what is happening here is like adding fuel treatment to your gas tank expecting to gain some horsepower - in keeping with automotive comparison made in the video.

[@Mobin92]

If this is so relatively easy to do, why don't manufactures just do it? Wouldn't it be a great selling point to say that your watches have 0 error, for 5 minutes or time per watch? Or it is something that just gets messed up with time again, e.g. during shipping?

[@COGuyStuff]

Some do, but it takes a good amount of time to do each watch. Time is money. Cheap watches get you close enough for government work.

[@johanakerblad339]

The aluminium part is connecte to the microphone. Adding tape or plastic will dampen the signal. Try to measure without extra plastics and compare. The aluminium will probably not scratch a case.

[@COGuyStuff]

Nope there is zero issue with signal.

[@ashotinthedark3182]

Good to see you, you're right about watches.

[@COGuyStuff]

Hey, thanks

[@riflemusket]

He shoots he scores, with the Seiko! 😅

[@australier263]

If you spend a few Dollars more, you'll get a better quality, with Seiko mechanical engines!

[@mishamishin5239]

What do you mean?

[@Shōwa-Heisei7599]

@@mishamishin5239 Probably less plastic crap!