Watch Regulation- The In's & Out's
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- Опубликовано: 26 окт 2022
- This is the first in a series of videos on watch regulation and adjusting. In this video you will learn how the regulator pins and the hairspring work together.
Thanks for watching
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Хобби
You are producing game changing videos. Seriously, these are cutting edge lessons that have never been touched by other RUclipsrs. Incredible content. Thank you Alex.
Its about Time. Thank you Jimmy
AMEN
Yes... as John G said... Amen!
Learning is made easy when the concept is understood instead of memorized.
A clear and intuitive explanation on this subject.
Thank you Alex!
This is just the beginning, but it will be clear why I started here, down the road a little bit.
@@watchrepairtutorials Looking forward to it.
I want to personally thank my Patrons for their support in helping me bring this information to the everyone.
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Your videos are great . You really share some valuable information.I began last year into this hobby and of all the videos i’ve see , and it’s a lot , yours are probably the best and most realistic with regard to beginners expectations and general guidance.Thanks for sharing .Will.🇨🇦
@@willstevenson4558 thanks Will. See you soon
These are the most useful and instructive videos, by far! Thanks so much for making them. I didn't previously understand why the hair spring needed to be centred between the regulating pins, and not touching them, when at rest... but this explanation made so much sense I now understand that in order to maximize the time that the hair spring is touching one or the other regulator pins with each swing of the balance wheel, it must be centred between them. Eureka!
Inquiring minds want to know.🤗
Wow, I will definitely need to rewatch this one a few times! I still don't really understand why the spring needs to be a bit loose inside the regulator pins -- I always thought they needed to be in contact with the hairspring at all times, in order to effectively control the length and therefore the timing. Well turns out nope! 😅I'm going to just put this video on a loop until it makes sense to me! 😂 Thanks as always for your amazing work Alex!
I explain the reason in about the last minute and half.
Hi AWD, how’s it going pal! Alex is a super cool dude isn’t he! PS I’m wondering when Kalle is really going to get going with his own watch, I want to see that soon. Take care buddy!
100% Best explanation you could find !
Hey! After restoring a lot of old Omegas as an amateur, I’m working on my first Rolex. Now going through all your videos, to do everything correct! 😅😂 Love your content and precise style!!! Best Regards from Germany!
Oh man, I love Germany checking in.
Well Robert, glad to help out. Would love to see some pictures when you get done. Seriously man that’s awesome.
Fantastic video, I worked out, all by my self, that the regulator pins should "nip" the spring. The reasoning was that in the centre the spring was full length and when it touched the regulator pins it was shorter. I eventually realised this was wrong but now I know why.
Thanks
Hello Leo,
The escapement and balance is, for me, the most fascinating part of the Watch. It’s really like a symphony of interactions that happen 6 times every second or 18000 times an hr.
Fascinating stuff.
Yikes!!! Now I know why my fiddling with a kinked spring made things worse. Had to buy a new balance complete anyway.
It was easier rebuilding my 351 Cleveland engine than repairing a hairspring!
Great vid Alex and thank you for posting!
We will get into hair spring repairs but if it’s really bad, you are almost always better off with a new one if it’s available.
Thank you Alex, I will watch many times over.
Thank you, Alex. Another video explaining a complex problem in an understandable manner. Even first time, I understood what you were talking about. Putting it into practice. Ah! As you said, watch a number of times. Your easy listening tutorial gives me hope.
😊
Professor Alex! All through the video I was thinking "I'm going to have to watch this many times." Almost laughed out loud when you suggested that at the end. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. 🙏
LOL. Funny how that happens. Almost like I know what you are going to think. 👍
taking your advice and watching it several times. thanks boss.
LOL, thanks Billy
this is great stuff, Alex! thank you very much for putting this together. I literally wait on pins and needles waiting for your vids to come out.
LOL don’t did that brother. Hope it is helping.
Let me know what you need.
Great video! The hairspring stud and regulator were always a mystery to me. This is the only explanation I've seen on the internet on this. Excellent!
Thank you! Can’t wait for the next videos!!
See you in the next video
So very clear, concise and informative. Thank you
You're very welcome!
Wow! What a great explanation! Thank You!
You're very welcome!
Thank you Alex for the very informative video. Very well explained and yes I will watch this a few times. Thank you again.
Hey John, let me know if you have any questions about it.
Many thanks Alex, you are such a cool dude explaining complex stuff to us learners, so cool! Your videos are my go to when I need to look back again and again! Ta!
Glad you like them!
...thanks for this content. This is just the first part for dynamic poising. I really waiting for this.
Nice. Keep watching and it will all come together
THANK YOU FOR THAT . NOW I UNDERSTAND. AND YOU ARE THE ONLEY ONE I HAVE COME ACROSS THST EXPLAIN IT . MUCH APPRECIATED.
No worries my friend. Thank you.
Another great informative and educational video, this is one of my favorite subjects, I love regulating with my timegrapher
Man I love hearing that! Thanks buddy. I'll see you in the next video.
Very valuable info! Thank you!
I appreciate you being here brother.
Was wandering about your next video. Please keep them coming thanks
Hi Ernest,
I am currently working on the first Master Class video on the Escapement inspection which will only be available on Patreon.
The next video on here will be adjusting the Etachron regulator system including removing and replacing the balance complete
Hi Alex, I enjoy your videos and how you explain everything. I find them very informative. I have some questions for you but I'll do it another time. Thanks again. Ralph
Thank you Ralph. Hope to see you again.
Another great video Alex, learning a lot with you. Most appreciated, thank you.
Thank you as always Tom.
Hi Tom, I see all the usual suspects hanging out with The cool Alex!
Hey Boyd, sometimes it seems we are all stalking each other 🤪😂
Thanks Alex. This video is to be seen once and again, but very interesting. Thanks for sharing and greetings from Santander.
Spain checking in. Thank you brother
Honestly Alex, I've been hovering over the "buy now" on an online watchmaker course, I feel like you're saving me quite a chunk of tool money with your excellent tutorials
Thank you so much brother, I appreciate it 🙏
Maybe somebody who has taken one can tell me what I’m missing .
Exactly!
Good stuff, aloha!
I’ve taken 2 online courses and You haven’t missed anything
Alex has courses an a book I've been hovering over...
Had to watch this few times but I think it’s sinking in. Great video as always Alex. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Very welcome Stephen.
Amazing video! Regulation is probably the most interesting subject to me 😁
It really is the meat and potatoes of service work
Taking notes, thank you
You got this Valentine!
Really looking forward to the next lesson as I have an AS ST 1950/51 that is running fast. Thanks for the helpful guides it’s really appreciated!
Thank you brother
Thank you for your lessons on watchmaking. For a hobbyist watch enthusiast like me, who wants to learn how to service his own watches, these are pure gold. Also, very good teaching skills you have.
Thank you Dan.
I hope these will be the beginning of a very successful hobby.
Thanks Alex for another great video and look forward the the upcoming lessons.
A good idea to watch this one a few times. You explain things so well we don't need a science degree to understand.
Glad you enjoyed it Phil
I started watching this vid a week ago, I'm still watching it! It's brilliant! Seeing the vibration tool in use was a icing on the cake! Best series out there. Question. What is your opinion of the ST36 movement? Keep them coming Alex.
I love ‘em and recommend them for anyone starting out.
The one I wear regularly keeps Time within 2-3 seconds a day and has a delta rate of 3 over 5 positions. So yea that’s pretty good for a $40 movement
I have always loved mechanical watch technology and I have watched countless videos on watches. This was, without a doubt, the most fascinating regulation explanation I’ve ever seen and it made total sense. You, sir, are a true expert. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! Those people don’t find it so fascinating
Great lesson, I wish I understood it fully. I'll be watching this video several times over. Thank you, Alex.
It will make more sense as we go along this road
O wow this is all new to me, thank you for this info.
Thanks Stuart. Now you know brother
An excellent explanation of a area that many of us have trouble understanding. I have heard of hairspring vibrating but have never seen the process. Thanks Alex!
well that was not really the process I showed. I was trying to get a point across. There's about a million things more important for now to cover
@@watchrepairtutorials My first sentence was for the entire video.
Very interesting. Now i know why I ruined one of my movments. You are a very good watchmaker and understand this a lot in detail. I think you'd make a great teacher.
Thank you Yoshi. I thought I was a teacher ? Huh.
Thanks for sharing! Most watches I service have very poorly centered hairsprings with misshapen terminal curves. That's where I start. I'm really looking forward to your regulator pin adjustment video. Thanks again!!!
Should be fun
Hi JW, you here too, we are all here😂 I also end up with all the old crappy hair springs! Any idea when Kalle’s own watch videos get going?
Thanks, Alex
This is all going somewhere Ray.
If the first milestone in learning watchmaking is the ability to disassemble and reassemble a movement, the second is surely getting to a point where you understand enough to realize that your video course is unquestionably the best available source of knowledge for the apprentice watchmaker (short of an actual three year course in horology.) I am proud that I am finally able to understand this video, and may even have the skills and tools to put it to the test. Now, if I can only get this darned hairspring stud back into its little hole on the regulator in this old Soviet movement. Thank you Alex.
Wow man that is fantastic to hear. Don’t you find it more enjoyable now that you understand what’s going on?
@@watchrepairtutorials
Absolutely. I truly appreciate the direct answer to my post, a touch of class; now I'm a fan for life.
I really love your videos!
Glad you like them Orologi. Maybe we will see you again?
@@watchrepairtutorials what do you mean?
By the way I almost watched all your videos
@@orologidalpassato What I mean is, I hope to see you here in the comment section to let me know your feedback.
@@watchrepairtutorials Oh yes, for sure!
This technique is the definition of easyer Said than done 😂 Thanks for giving me an easy to understand lesson of this 😃👍🏻i will return to the bench right away, there are so many hairsprings that needs to be ruined, 😊before the lesson is learned
Happy to help!
Wow, you're right; I had to watch that more than once haha. Nice explanation Alex, thanks you!
What’s going on TBW? Thanks for stopping by.
Ah, so the importance of higher amplitude is essentially the movement's ability to fight gravity and inertia. Keeping the watch more accurate when it's not just sitting on a table.
So rate is the obvious one
Amplitude ties essentially "hardiness"
Now I'm curious of why beat error is important.
Thanks for the video, You are a great teacher, the method of "Here's what you need to know, but HERE is why it's important" is EXACTLY the way I learn and remember what I've learned.
Be there is really not that important unless it’s over 1.0 ms. When it’s over that it starts affecting the rate in a negative way.
I will now go back and check these key points in the balance.
Sounds like slow-mo video is a big help here.
It has its application. Magnification is king though.
THANKS,,GOOD VIDEO
Thanks Greg.
This video is really useful in helping me to begin to understand the factors that influence how the timing of a movement can change with the position of the watch. I’m also starting to understand why my attempts to regulate some vintage movements have gone well, while others have gone poorly. I’ve watched this video 3 times, and every time I get something new out of it. Alex, you are creating a set of lessons that ordinarily requires enrollment in a watch school, which is impossible for many of us. You are the master!
Hello Mr Schumacker, how are you.
Yes sometimes when going to regulate a watch everything can line up well enough to give us satisfactory and not much needs to be done.
Other times it can be a head scratcher.
I am working on the first Master Class we speak and am about 1/3 way through right now.
This will be on the 6 point escapement inspection.
This inspection process or the lack of it, is probably one of the biggest factors that trouble newer watchmakers the mostly.
You can tell something is wrong, but if you don’t know whet you are looking for, it’s hopeless.
This will only be available on Patreon by the way.
How are you enjoying viewing the videos there? Any problems?
Good video never had the regulator pins explained properly before I had to figure that out by myself (watchmakers secret)😃
Arn’t they all secrets.
Thanks for checking in Amanda
Think i just fried my brain a little. Tnx a bunch :) Time to watch it again for the 3rd time...... :)
You can do it! It will make more sense as we go done the regulation road.
I’m diving into all these videos cause I have been terrified to mess with hairsprings. Just messed one up and guess it’s time to learn 👍
Nice. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@watchrepairtutorialsThanks I will! Just got some Dumont 7 tweezers to make this easier (straight tweezers were very awkward) and going to make the needle tool you suggested. I have some old hairsprings I might bend up just for additional practice.
@@XJ290 that’s perfect. The more you practice working with hairsprings the more comfortable you will get. 👍
You mentioned in one of your videos ( maybe this one) that you have to wait 24 hrs. After lubricating to actual regulate. Others channels may actually do that but I don’t think it was ever mentioned. Thanks again!
If you’ve properly serviced the watch, and you take a reading as soon as you put the balance wheel in and then look at it again 24 hours later, you’ll notice there’s a difference. This is basic watchmaking, 101.
@@watchrepairtutorials one more question, do you have a video which beat error and regulating a vintage balance with the adjustment screws? Thanks again!
@@Al-po2oh That will be covered in m watchmaking course.
Very informative video. I feel like I'm in Petit-Lancy.
LOL, I don’t know about that but I do lean towards the Swiss.
@@watchrepairtutorials that was very technical stuff, the kind of knowledge that comes from a horology school.
@@bolgerguide just getting started buddy
This is the level of detail I am looking for and you are the only channel I've found that has it. I have one question though and forgive me if its already been asked in the comments. I scanned them but didn't see it. Question: Are the regulating pins doing anything when there is low amplitude and the pins are in the counting spot? It looked like the hairspring was just passing through them untouched at low amplitude. It would explain why you need a full wind on the watch when you are regulating.
Even at low amplitude the HS still touches the pins, which is affecting the rate.
@@watchrepairtutorials Got it. Thank you sir!
ive watched this video twice. i need to watch it a third time!
You’ll get there man. It always helps to apply what you learn on a practice movement
You're doing great content mate, been learning alot from your videos.
Just wondering if you might be interested in making a video about hairspring replacements. I've been trying my hand at it but can never seem to get the balance spring inbetween the two regulator guides!
I touched down in a little bit in the video I did on adjusting the Etachron system.
Can you be more specific on exactly what problem you’re having?
Tips and tricks on getting the hair spring into the different regulator pins. I Could use some training on that, love your videos and have got a lot out of them I'm just a beginner working on a hamilton 747 thank you
I made a note. Thanks
✨✨ Get Your Copy of my eBook, The Secrets for Adjusting Watch Rates ✨✨
➡➡PDF DOWNLOAD watchrepairtutorials.com/ebook/ ⬅⬅
➡➡Available on Kindle & Soft Cover @ geni.us/4x8C (Amazon)
✨✨Watchmaking Courses and Training ✨✨
➡➡ watchrepairtutorials.com/watchmaker-course/ ⬅⬅
Grateful these videos exist but as a raw beginner, I haven't got a clue what your talking about haha
I'm lost after a few seconds
No worries. You gotta learn to walk before you can run, right?
Thank you man, finally clear concise information which stays on point. BTW, what's on your wrist in this video?
I believe that is a Vostok Amphibia
How much space should there ideally be between the regulator pins and the hair spring? For example on a Seiko balance with a rotating regulator pin block, is the goal to “take up all the slack” and just barely have both pins touching the hair spring? Many thanks and great videos!
The next video is going to be on that very subject
Hi Alex, your channel is fantastic. Can you explain the same procedure of adjusting regularor pins on a vintage watch?? Thank you!!
Great suggestion!
Great video! I really enjoy the details. One question: How do you position the hear spring perfectly in the midle betwen the regulator pins in this regulator type? The hairspring stud cannot be adjusted by turning like you did it in Etachron regulator. If it is done by manipulating the hairspring... it could take many many attemps... I woud really apriciate if you could point me in the right direction. Do you have a video covering this? Thank you again for your work.
What you do is hold the hairspring and run a needle across it to massage it over. It’s a slight touch and you go very slow. Of course you need to make sure the regulator pin or pins are also straight.
Alex, you know I love all of your video's... I have one gripe though.... You need to share in the comments what watch you are wearing. You have some very interesting looking watches, and being a watch geek, sometimes I see these, and can't... for the life of me, figure out what it may be. :)
LOL. Ok ok, I’ll try to put a note somewhere. 😜
Too much to eat in just one sitting. All things considered, I begin to understand how far I am. Many factors should have been taken into account (clean and well lubricated good parts) to just being in the stage of regulating the watch. Perfect hairsprings in vintage watchmaking are rare or almost impossible, fixing one without breaking it is also very difficult. Well, I will do my best to understand, because it seems we are starting to dive in deep waters! As always thanks for taking the time to show us the way ...
I appreciate you brother. Hang in there. You got this.
Alex,
I was hoping that you would get to the subject of hairsprings. I want to know how many times it can take a reshaping back to round and flat before you just toss it. Not having the tool for vibrating a new spring to the balance, and not being able to find some older model balance complete leaves me frustrated. I had one that I reshaped it 5 times before I gave up and used a donor balance complete. Every time I would reshape it to almost perfection, install it and shortly it would be wacked out of shape again and losing amp. Removed, cleaned, shaped, demagnetized, cleaned, reinstalled, work great for short period, repeat. Reshaping is a nerve wreaking procedure on a badly out of round and non-flat hairspring.
Thank you for the videos neighbor. Jay
Hi Jay,
All hairspring have an elastic limit which is different depending on its strength and age. A spring can be worked any number of times until some area on the spring is pushed beyond that limit. If any point on the spring goes beyond the EL it will never be the be the same and is considered set.
just beyond this EL is considered the point of fracture and that's when it breaks.
Thank you. Great job.
I've got h-50 (c07701) with a huge difference of an amplitude between any horizontal position (dial up/down) ~270° and any vertical (12/9/6/3 up) - 220 and less. No problem with accuracy, power reserve and beat error. Any advice is appreciated.
As you probably already know, it is normal for amplitude to drop between the horizontal and vertical positions. 50° is a lot for that movement. In my opinion if you’re not suffering from accuracy I wouldn’t worry about it.
Thank you so much! Yes, there's no problem with an accuracy, but sometimes it could stop at approx mid-winding
Wow. Just learned a ton here. So in addition to trying to get a hairspring flat and concentric as it sets on the balance staff, nothing the orientation of the hairspring through the regulating pins sound important. I have heard that you can improve the positional rate in the pendant down or pendant up positions of the watch by adjusting the spacing between the regulating pins. Is this true? Will you be talking about the impact of Beat Error on regulation? I have run into instance were the position of the terminal stud and collet on the balance staff is not sufficient to allow enough adjustment at the terminal stud to get to 0.0 BE necessitating rotating of the HS collet on the balance staff. Just so many factors to consider here. Thanks for the thorough lesson here.
That’s a great question. It is true that both horizontal and vertical position can be manipulated by the regulator pins. Very good Supercruze.
It will be the super time of an up coming video.
That is getting into the realm of Watch adjusting.
Super cool stuff coming
have you done a video on why the rate changes in different positions?
No, that’s something that will be going over when we get to adjusting the Hamilton 917 videos that I’m working on right now
Alex awesome series, just one question regarding the regulating pins, I have done a couple of seikos now where the manual actually states the hairspring should touch the pin. Which confused me because I thought it should be able to move between the boot and the pin. What’s your take on this?
Send me a link to it.
@@watchrepairtutorials it's in the service guide of the seiko 2906, watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/files?showfile=Seiko/2906A.pdf&filename=2906A.pdf&dir=Technical%20Manuals&action=documents
It states to always have the balance spring touching the pin lightly.
@@alexanderkamerbeek9693 There may something I don’t know about that movement and how it’s manufactured so if it’s saying it should be lightly touching then that’s where I would start and then see how it adjusts through the different positions.
It’s definitely not typical
@@watchrepairtutorials it's a tiny 28800 bph movement so maybe there lies the reason, also the spring doesn't really have a stud l, you slide it into a block and secure it with a pin.
Great vid, will definitely need to watch a few times as this is complicated and a bit weird to wrap my head around.
The hairspring vibrating tool at the beginning, is that just a tool to make the process of finding the counting spot faster than simply checking the rate with a timegrapher while adjusting or is that a necessary tool that i almost certainly can't afford and probably shouldn't bother with as a hobbyist?
I'm also a little unclear as to what the purpose of it is if the practical counting spot seems to be the useful spot on the spring to locate and the vibration tool can only find the regular counting spot?
After a balance wheel is statically poised so that the wheel is balanced, think of the weights added to a car tire rim, then the hairspring which is always to long when new, needs to be sized to that wheel.
This skill is pretty much useless today as the new hairspring are not available to the general public, and even though its taught to new watchmakers today, watchmaking has become a job of changing parts out, because its more cost effective.
The 1st point to the video was to understand that the regulator pins control the active length of the hairspring. The counting spot is merely the point on the hairspring where the rate will be at its best.
The second point was that the position of rest of the hairspring between the pins will affect the active length of the hairspring which becomes a bigger deal when the movement goes vertical.
The reason why this is important will become more apparent when we get into adjusting regulator pins to bring rates closer together.
I know it’s not related to the video but I have a seiko NH34A and I have dis assembled and cleaned and then re piled it but now my amplitude it lower than I would like,I know you said the mainspring is the best way to get more amplitude but I don’t have a winder and I’m thinking hand winding it would just make things worse, what do you suggest?
Well, there’s many many things in a watch that can cause low amplitude. The main springs come in a ring so you don’t need a winder. That would be the first place to start.
I wish I could apprentice under this guy. Lol it has taken me 30 years (I’m 34 now) to find this hobby, and I’ve jumped in head first. I grew up in the HVAC trade, and the mechanics of watchmaking is fascinating to me. I’ve gotten almost all my tools. Still waiting for a good staking set and jeweling set to pop up on eBay. I put in good bids and get sniped at the last second. How’d you get your start in watchmaking, Alex? Also, are there any books or anything you can suggest?
Hey man, you can in a way. My watchmakers course is about as close as it gets. I went to a technical school in Denver that had a watchmaking course, then worked for a watchmaker who was trained at the Elgin factory for 8 years. Then I ran my own shop until I sold it and retired. Get the Bulova School of Watchmaking book.
@@watchrepairtutorials ok. Cool! I literally just finished my first watch strip down /rebuild today (well, took me a couple weeks cuz I lost a click spring). I’m about to sign up for your courses now.
@@kylecarman4809 I'll look for you> Thanks Kyle.
Regarding the vibrating tool, it wasn't explicitly stated ,but I'm assuming the spring under repair is supposed to have the same bpm as the test balance?
That’s exactly right. the goal is to see both valance wheels oscillating at the same speed in unison
Thanks!
Hello, Love your videos. Could you sent me a link to your video tutorial where I can learn how to trouble shoot some adjustments problems. I got it as completely not running. The watch was properly cleaned but I cannot get it running good enough for my expectation. Beat error changes dramatically with position and some other issues too. I suspect that balance stuff was changed with slightly longer the one and its being pinched when I tightening the balance bridge screw it stops the movement (pivots seem to be straight, jewels not loose, hairspring was definitely manipulated before but looks ok now). I put a spacer there and it works but not possible to regulate it properly. I think that it may interact differently with other parts now ones the spacer is in. Anyway if you send me a correct link to your video/videos that describe adjustment and regulation in detail I would appreciate that (I understand that these could be a paid content). I think that I may need to get a new balance or /and pallet fork to correct it but I want to keep as much original as possible in this case. Thank you
I have some more advanced videos on my Patreon page. There are a couple explaining the escapement inspection. As well as other videos that don’t get published on RUclips.
So the hairspray should be in the center of the regulating pins when the movement is stopped right.?
yes sir, that's correct.
Hi Alex,
At 4:50 you mentioned that the balance spring did not have this offset when it was originally vibrated. I watched it a few times now and still can’t get through this statement. The reason for this „offset“ is the curve of the balance spring just before the collet, right? So if this was not the case when it was vibrated, does that mean that it was vibrated without being fixed on a collet?
Do all balance completes (including all new ones) have this same offset?
Regards
What I am referring to is that when it’s vibrated, the hairspring is of course pinned in the collet bet the pivot is not confined in a jewel hole and the hairspring is not in between regulator pins so the forces are not the same as the hairspring is being vibrated.
Once the balance is installed in the movement these other factors along with the pinning point of the hairspring in the collet change how the hairspring oscillates.
@@watchrepairtutorials So basically when it is being vibrated the balance complete spins around its „natural center“ of rotation. It’s the factors you mentioned in the final assembly that lead to the mentioned offset.
@@chris9413 correct
Have you just explained that the length of the spring can vary continuously? Inputs are the environment (angle of the watch and influence of gravity), the amplitude (service state and entropy - i.e. constant shift to unserviced, plus winding down of the main spring) and then the position of the spring in relation to the regulator. If this is the case, how does a watch attain such incredible accuracy and can I really progress to a level that is credible enough to touch the regulator?
Don’t overthink it.
@@watchrepairtutorials Yes, I am a analyst. Thanks for quick response as I am in a steep learning curver phase. I jumped to this video to understand the heart of the watch. I will relax. One day when I have a beautifully cleaned and lubricated watch I will revisit this. It is pretty damn nice to know that this shared knowledge is here waiting for me. Thanks
Hello . Exelent training on all subjects. regulating an older balance wills is sometimes a.chalenge , if the pin is not straight. I put a new main spring, serviced a movement and put a new balance will. the watch is running great. but the horizontal amplitude is 340, the vertical is 270--285. The watch runs very stable with a 0 to 02 beat error. the timing is perfect , with the perfect delta. almost no difference between
horizontal and vertical positions. Should I use pivot flattening, to lower the amplitude. is 340 to much.? it is the same up and down positions.
340 is too much. Are you sure the LA is right?
Hey, Alex! I know it’s not your job to help me, but I am having problems regulating an Omega 30t2SC. I have checked everything possible(loose collet, flat or round hairspring, impulse jewel, roller table, jewels, end shake, etc.) but the rate is outrageous. The time grapher can’t even read it. It just shows the dots going on a straight line up, but the beat error is good. And the amplitud is an an ok range. I don’t mean to bother you, but would you suggest anything I can do that I may not be doing? I appreciate any help!
No problem, what are your rate and amplitude in the dial positions at a full wind?
Well, see it’s weird. The time grapher doesn’t show any numbers for the rate. Only a bunch of lines. But if you look at the screen, the dots go just up on a straight line as if the watch was running super fast, but I put the dial and the hands on the movement to check the time with my phone since the time grapher is not reading the rate, but the watch is actually running slow. I set the time last night and fully wound it, and it lost like 15 minutes just in about 5 hours. But the amplitude is about 250•, and the beat error right now is about 0.4ms I know I can work on bringing it down a little more, and maybe work on bringing the amplitud up more, but I don’t know why is losing so much time. I really appreciate your help Alex!
@@josetjaycastro4778 so first things first. you can’t worry about the rate until the watch is put into the position to be regulated. Start by adjusting the gain on your timegrapher to see whether you can pick up the signal. When a timegrapher is unable to determine the rate, it is normally because there are other sounds that should not be there within the escapement that are confusing the software. One example might be the guard pin hitting the safety roller.
So a deep inspection into the escapement is needed to determine that everything is functioning as it should. Unfortunately, that is a extremely long subject.
Also realize that testing the timing of a watch with the hands at this stage can just confuse matters. A movement can also lose time by lose cannon pinion or the dial hole not being centered over the extended arbor of the center wheel.
A deep understanding of the escapement and how it works as what you need to focus on to fix this problem.
Hey, Alex! I appreciate your long and detailed response. I really appreciate your help! I am going to do what you are suggesting, but I also bought your book about regulating a watch. I am waiting for it to learn everything I can to become better at regulating watches. Thank you again for your help! Happy thanksgiving in advance!
@@josetjaycastro4778 thank you brother. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family.
It's getting more complicated now Alix. I've watched the video a couple of times but not sure if I'm missing the point. I realize the pins should be parallel but thought they should be as close as possible but the hairspring be able to freely pass through them to stay constant at low amplitude. Am i missing something? If you get paid for views I might be helping you get rich with this video😂
Sorry Keith,
Let me try to clarify what I was going for here.
1) First was the point on the hairspring that is determined from the vibration of the hairspring with is the counting point. This is the area on the hairspring where the rate will be closest to zero without any other manipulation.
2) The next thing if that if the counting point was attached to the HS stub, there would be no way to fine tune the rate and at the same time would be even worse because of the natural fault of the hairspring created by the pinning of the collet. The rate would be worse.
3) Because of the need to be able to fine tune the rate, there has to be a mechanism built into the movement that can change the active length of the hairspring. The active length originally being the real counting point.
4) That's the job of the regulator pins. They change the active length of the HS to be able to get to the practical counting point, 0 rate.
5) Depending on how the HS sits while at rest in between the pins, will determine how the HS reacts to different amplitudes AND whether or not the active length moves away from the counting point or sweet spot or if you will, or closer to it producing better rates.
You are correct that the pins should be as close as possible to the pins without binding BUT, they still need to be straight and parallel to each other otherwise you are going to create a positional fault even in the horizontal positions.
Does that make sense
Cristal clear. I think I was looking to far into it. Your knowledge and willingness to share in such an unreserved and friendly manner is what makes this channel outstanding. Thank you my friend.
so i got a new watch. brand new with an sw500. the watch runs absolutely erratic. been having this thing for a month now. some days its at +6 seconds and some other days its somewhere between +10 to +45 seconds. i have no idea what it could be, that it is so inconsistent. I left it run itself out and it changed nothing and also demagnetised it. any idea what it could be?
As you probably know, there are different grades of the SW500. Assuming it’s the lower grade specify, the factory specs are plus or minus an average of five seconds a day with a maximum deviation of 20 seconds per day so you max is a little high.
You didn’t mention the brand so it’s hard to say how well they regulated the movement or if they did anything at all when they received it from the factory.
It could be related to lack of activity to one of the main springs, so the power is on the low side, combined with how much you run the chronograph.
If all that is normal, then most likely it’s just a problem with the regulation of the Etachron system.
I can't find your steel polishing compound anywhere. Could you please let me know. Palladium.
www.jewelerssupplies.com/Polishing-Compound-Platinum.html
Thank you Alex.p.s. excellent videos, please keep them coming. You are definitely an A1 watchmaker.
So how do you set it up?
I don’t understand you question.
Ok I am getting there. So I seem to gather that the spring should not touch the reg pins at rest ideally. It should touch one then the other as it cycles? I have seen watches where there is no gap and others where there is just a single hookover pin. Most of the stuff I do is fusee from the 1890's where there are two pins. What is the ideal set up situation?@@watchrepairtutorials
Missing you Alix.
Sorry man, I was out of commission with a kidney stone for about 2 weeks. I am finishing up the next video which should be out today or tomorrow.
@@watchrepairtutorials I've just seen your new video, what a belter, Thanks Alix, Hope you're feeling better.
What state are you located
NC
Thanks again for a good video. True, the first time I understood only 1/3 of the video. I had to watch it 2 more times.
Excellent!
I'm a newbie and I was trying to take the balance of the cock but the little thing that holds the spring between the regulator pin was not slotted to be able to turn it with a screwdriver to release the spring. After a bit of a struggle, I was able to turn it, but unfortunately I bent the regulator pin that touches the spring I tried to bend it back and it snapped...can I do something to it? Or you have any tips on how I should have handled the situation?
You can replace regulator pins, which will be covered in the series for staking sets.
Just remember not to force anything.
@@watchrepairtutorials Thanks! Awesome videos, can't wait for more!
"Zero rate" means "zero difference rate between the two springs"?
I'm not sure what you are asking or stating.
bro, teach me how to correct the needle and date
I did a video on servicing the calendar system. What is this needle you are talking about?
@@watchrepairtutorials yes sis
Once again... I have never heard any other so-called watchmaking expert on RUclips tackle this subject let alone explain it so that even idiots like me can have a working basis of knowledge of such complex issues.
Thanks again John G. We Are trying
It runs fast,
it runs slow,
depending on the position,
It’s a Seiko.
LOL now that’s 😆
Just a question if I may. I purchased a FC highlife chronograph and the chronograph hand jams for a few seconds when almost reaching 12, then it moves again and does the same thing when reaching 12. Sometimes it jammed completely without moving again.
Also the sub seconds also jams when this is happening. I sent it back to the AD and they say it was because the power reserve was low. Is this possible? And should it be happening just because of a low power reserve?
Whats the history on this watch? Is it new or did you buy it second hand.
@@watchrepairtutorials it is brand new from a authorised dealer
@@tariqjoseph3562 are they saying that you are not letting the auto winding build up enough power? Low amplitude can cause problems with chrono functions.
@@watchrepairtutorials yes, they said exactly that. That the power reserve was low and that is what was causing the issue.
Before I sent it back to the AD to be checked, I didn’t think to fully wind it then try the chronograph and see if the problem still happens, so I have to take them at their word until I get it back. I was just wondering if such an issue can happen during the back end of the power reserve.
Btw, I appreciate your responses (likes and subbed) 👍
@@tariqjoseph3562 no worries my friend. Hopefully you get it back and no problems. Thanks