Works for a 2000 as well...quick tip I literally JUST found...on the back of the pulley and in the pump housing there is small notch, the screws stick out past the pulley just a tiny bit...line up the slot and slip a screwdriver between the small screws and the notch and it locks with NO problems, instant righty loosey...I was floored! HOLY SMOKES taking the bolts out because the accessory mount was hiding that one stupid bolt...ARRRGH!!!! Totally RUclips Certified now :) Thanks for this great video!!!!!!!!
This is a great video and much appreciated. I own a 2004 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 Engine. When purchasing the new replacement Water Pump, I also purchased a new Felpro branded gasket (for $5.49). The Felpro Gasket was much thicker, and much better quality than the one that came with the new pump. It allowed a secured a sealing during the installation process. I also purchased two new (i.e. two inch and like threaded) 13mm pump bolts from Hone Depot. I sawed off the head of these bolts to use as guide pins for the Water Pump. I then threaded these two guide pins into the engine block. It made the alignment and installation process so much easier. I did the same to allow removal of the Fan Blade from the water pump pulley. I removed two of the short pulley bolts, and then threaded these longer bolts into the pulley. I then used a large screw driver and inserted it between these two bolts (i.e. behind the water pump pulley). This prevented movement of the pulley, and allowed easy removal (as well as a secured tightening after reinstalling) of the fan blade. Also, removing the Driver's side Tire, made it much easier to access the (2) rear bolts that go into the rear Power Steering/Compressor bracket. I hope these additional tips will help someone else. I am not a mechanic, but was successful in doing this repair. It also saved me about $500.00 when doing this myself.
Hey David! I'm David from Atlanta, GA. Just watched your video on the 98 Ford ranger 3.0 v6n water pump repl Thank you very much sir, you saved my ass with ur brilliant but painfullly simple method for removing the pulley fan clutch assembly i struggled for 2 days like an idiot trying to figure out how to remove it without breaking my other hand or busting my ass, u are truly without a doubt my hero for the day and I salute you man GREAT JOB BROTHER!!!! ,
Thank you for the helpful video. I found 2 torque values for the water pump bolts. For the water pump bolts here are 3 hex sizes & 2 bolt shank sizes. The 2 biggest hex sizes with the same shank diameter size is torqued to 18 ft-lb. The smallest hex with the smallest shank is 7 ft-lb.
Nice job. I picked up a couple of tips that helped me change my pump on my 2002 Ranger. It is a pain. I see why it cost so much to have replaced. In 2024 it is 120**@hr at my mechanics. Thanks for the video
I did not see this video, it came in my recommendation AFTER I did the job. 7 hours. But I saved about 400 to 500 bucks (California prices). And now you see why. It is very complex. I am pretty sore, so I will count this as a good workout too.
Wow... You made taking off that fan pulley harder than it need be. I just rested the handle of ratchet I used to loosen the tension pulley and then twisted the bolts out of the water pump! Easy!
Helpful, though took the advice of using sealant with the gasket, and now I know why the OEM DIDN'T use it. Extra failing point. Followed instructions on the tube, let it sit for 24 hours before adding fluid, thankfully it was only $5 of distilled water and not $50 of coolant, cause that gasket sealant failed HARD. Pissed like a racehorse, thankfully I was able to make it home. Going to disassemble, remove gasket material, PRAY it didn't damage the gasket, and reapply as OEM intended. Everything else though was a great help.
You need to remove the AC mounting bracket. If I remember correctly, there are 3 or 4 13mm bolts on the back side of the AC unit that bolt to the engine block. You can get to one from the front, I think it is behind the tensioner and is recessed in a hole. The other two you get to one from under the truck in the back behind the bracket and the top one from top back side. Its a real pain to get too. Hope this helps. Sorry I was not more clear.
Does anyone know what size are the 5 smaller bolts. it looks like there is 1 on top, 1 to the far right and 3 on the bottom. I need to get 2 more as mine broke.
just guessing, but they might be 1/4-20. or metric 10mm. but what i would do is take one of the ones that did not break down to a parts house or hardware store and compare to find the right size. and FYI, you should be using a torq wrench so you don't break them! should not be cranking that hard that they get broken!
Don't remove the belt before the fan and shroud, remove the fan and shroud first, then break loose the four pulley bolts from the water pump pulley (the belt tension holds the pulley,simply loosen the bolts,don't remove them just crack them loose), THEN remove the belt, the belt will be super easy to acces with fan and shroud already out......and when reinstalling belt, do it as soon as your pulley is put back on the water pump and tightened, don't put belt back on last, or AFTER the fan and shroud are back in place that just makes it harder with no room for your hands, put the belt back on BEFORE the fan and shroud.........i keep the ac compressor attached to the power steering bracket and move the whole bracket a little to get to the two hard to reach bolts
hi, does anyone know the bolt size/thread? the ranger I have didnt have the water pump so there are no bolts. Trying to bring this truck back up and running.
Get the rental tool from Auto Zone instead of using the adjustable wrench. The rental tool uses your breaker bar. The tool is thinner than an adjustable wrench so it fits in easier.
If only you had this video 3 months prior to July 2016. I had, with the help of 2 others and a LONG breaker bar, turned the shaft the wrong way and snapped it clear off. I had to get a ride to the nearest auto parts(half an hour away from where I was doing the job) and pick up an electric fan to use temporarily with some shady wiring. Still using that temporary electric fan and now I've got a video to help me replace the waterpump. :D Thank you.
Sorry to hear of that. I learned this lesson when I was about 16 yrs old, rebuilding a ford mustang 289 engine. The older cars all had crank driven fans back then. An "older" wiser mechanic explained to me about the left handed threading. Makes sense. other wise the crank spinning would un-thread the fan! Good luck!
I had problem with the bolts on AC compressor bracket,this bracket has to be moved to the side in order to access the water pump.There are 5 bolts,13mm socket,2 are on the right side,in front 1 is self evident,their are 2 more.They are directly to the right and left in line with the belt tensioner down low,they are hidden in the metal channels.13mm socket,it pretty much takes a mirror,to see them.I took the belt tensioner off,easyier to get to these two.
sorry i did not get back to you sooner. you probably figured it out. but there are two other bolts back behind the AC mount. you need to loosen the entire bracket assembly. They are hard to get to. You need to feel up under there for the bolts. I think they are 13mm.
good video buddy. you don't add distilled water to 50 50 antifreeze, that's already diluted you do add it to a full strength . also you need yo purge the system , other wise you're going to have problems with it like not a good heat during cold winter or other problems too.
Thanks. That is correct. Perhaps you misunderstood my video. You use (full strength) antifreeze diluted 50% with distilled water. And yes, if the system has not been flushed recently it is a good idea to do so. We did so on this system.
Got this problem. Wish you would have shown your work rather than writing what you did. I still have no idea how to remove the pulleys to get to the one nut on the water pump. Does anyone should where these bolts are?
I hear ya on that one. i've had to do that on a 98 Ranger. It sucks! and if you do not have the adjustment just right, you have very little play in the clutch pedal, and the clutch will NOT engage. Major pain to work on! Thanks for checking in! ds
Just getting started watching the video and taking notes before begin the job and I noticed immediately that though order of removal list does not match the actual order of your removal. Just getting started. We will see how it goes. Film at eleven.
It's a lot easier just to remove the radiator first then you can get the fan shroud out of the way while you are having to deal with that fan which is a giant pain in the ass
This would be true if you don't mind dealing with the radiator. I took the more conservative approach. To each his own perspective I guess. what ever works best for you.
I'm in the middle of doing a 2002 Mazda B3000, and if you think getting at the 13m's on a Ranger Bracket is a Bitch ... you ain't seen nothin' yet.. You description of their location is helpful. The artist renderings they consider schematics these days make me wonder what the Idiots even bothered to get a CAD degree for ... what's next stick men like cave drawings with a arrow that say put here ??? Thanks. P.S. If you have a 4-1/2 D Kant Twist Clamp around you can grab a hold of the Flange area behind the Fan Pulley and rotate it around till it hits, and break the Fan loose. To avoid one of the other various removal methods, we develop because the same Idiot that made the Schematic Drawings forgot to put some Flats for a Clutch Fan Wrench on the Fan Assembly.
For anyone looking to replace the water pump on a 3.0L Ranger follow the link below.I found Dav's video to be too vague to follow. If you want to see where the A/C bolts are click the link below ruclips.net/video/903MmyYiXSQ/видео.html
For one thing how hard is it to type 3.0 when u posted this instead of (how to put a waterpump on a 99 ranger) because there not all 3.0 and i dont care anything about clicking on someone's post to listen to them talking shit for 5 mins before they say what there supposed to whenever most of the time they don't know what there doing anyway!!!!
I suppose you do not know how to read English? take a look at my description and if you read that, you will see this is for a 1999 3.0L engine! Furthermore, if one is doing work on such vehicle, and view a few minutes of my video they will be able to identify if the engine is like theirs or not. Sorry you could not figure it out.
Works for a 2000 as well...quick tip I literally JUST found...on the back of the pulley and in the pump housing there is small notch, the screws stick out past the pulley just a tiny bit...line up the slot and slip a screwdriver between the small screws and the notch and it locks with NO problems, instant righty loosey...I was floored!
HOLY SMOKES taking the bolts out because the accessory mount was hiding that one stupid bolt...ARRRGH!!!!
Totally RUclips Certified now :)
Thanks for this great video!!!!!!!!
They did that for the 2000 year, my luck, I have a 99 🤦♂️
This is a great video and much appreciated. I own a 2004 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 Engine. When purchasing the new replacement Water Pump, I also purchased a new Felpro branded gasket (for $5.49). The Felpro Gasket was much thicker, and much better quality than the one that came with the new pump. It allowed a secured a sealing during the installation process. I also purchased two new (i.e. two inch and like threaded) 13mm pump bolts from Hone Depot. I sawed off the head of these bolts to use as guide pins for the Water Pump. I then threaded these two guide pins into the engine block. It made the alignment and installation process so much easier. I did the same to allow removal of the Fan Blade from the water pump pulley. I removed two of the short pulley bolts, and then threaded these longer bolts into the pulley. I then used a large screw driver and inserted it between these two bolts (i.e. behind the water pump pulley). This prevented movement of the pulley, and allowed easy removal (as well as a secured tightening after reinstalling) of the fan blade. Also, removing the Driver's side Tire, made it much easier to access the (2) rear bolts that go into the rear Power Steering/Compressor bracket. I hope these additional tips will help someone else. I am not a mechanic, but was successful in doing this repair. It also saved me about $500.00 when doing this myself.
Hey David! I'm David from Atlanta, GA. Just watched your video on the 98 Ford ranger 3.0 v6n water pump repl
Thank you very much sir, you saved my ass with ur brilliant but painfullly simple method for removing the pulley fan clutch assembly i struggled for 2 days like an idiot trying to figure out how to remove it without breaking my other hand or busting my ass, u are truly without a doubt my hero for the day and I salute you man GREAT JOB BROTHER!!!!
,
you are welcome! glad it helped.
Thank you for the helpful video.
I found 2 torque values for the water pump bolts. For the water pump bolts here are 3 hex sizes & 2 bolt shank sizes.
The 2 biggest hex sizes with the same shank diameter size is torqued to 18 ft-lb.
The smallest hex with the smallest shank is 7 ft-lb.
lot easier and straight forward than another video i found where the guy basically tore the whole front end apart.
Nice job. I picked up a couple of tips that helped me change my pump on my 2002 Ranger.
It is a pain. I see why it cost so much to have replaced. In 2024 it is 120**@hr at my mechanics. Thanks for the video
Thank you, full of detail and straight to the point. I’m used to working on Nissans and this is completely different.
I did not see this video, it came in my recommendation AFTER I did the job. 7 hours. But I saved about 400 to 500 bucks (California prices). And now you see why. It is very complex. I am pretty sore, so I will count this as a good workout too.
Very nicely done. Lots of videos on this job but yours was the most accurate and helpful. Thank you!
Wow... You made taking off that fan pulley harder than it need be. I just rested the handle of ratchet I used to loosen the tension pulley and then twisted the bolts out of the water pump! Easy!
Those are 2000 on up
thanks found this to be the best tutorial out there
Helpful, though took the advice of using sealant with the gasket, and now I know why the OEM DIDN'T use it. Extra failing point. Followed instructions on the tube, let it sit for 24 hours before adding fluid, thankfully it was only $5 of distilled water and not $50 of coolant, cause that gasket sealant failed HARD. Pissed like a racehorse, thankfully I was able to make it home. Going to disassemble, remove gasket material, PRAY it didn't damage the gasket, and reapply as OEM intended. Everything else though was a great help.
Thanks for the video it was helpful for a 2004 Ranger.
How many bolts the a/c and power steering bracke are ?
Can u explain me more about how do you move the hole ac compressor .. I have i problem with it..
You need to remove the AC mounting bracket. If I remember correctly, there are 3 or 4 13mm bolts on the back side of the AC unit that bolt to the engine block. You can get to one from the front, I think it is behind the tensioner and is recessed in a hole. The other two you get to one from under the truck in the back behind the bracket and the top one from top back side. Its a real pain to get too. Hope this helps. Sorry I was not more clear.
Does anyone know what size are the 5 smaller bolts. it looks like there is 1 on top, 1 to the far right and 3 on the bottom. I need to get 2 more as mine broke.
just guessing, but they might be 1/4-20. or metric 10mm. but what i would do is take one of the ones that did not break down to a parts house or hardware store and compare to find the right size. and FYI, you should be using a torq wrench so you don't break them! should not be cranking that hard that they get broken!
Great video! Much appreciated - thanks!
Don't remove the belt before the fan and shroud, remove the fan and shroud first, then break loose the four pulley bolts from the water pump pulley (the belt tension holds the pulley,simply loosen the bolts,don't remove them just crack them loose), THEN remove the belt, the belt will be super easy to acces with fan and shroud already out......and when reinstalling belt, do it as soon as your pulley is put back on the water pump and tightened, don't put belt back on last, or AFTER the fan and shroud are back in place that just makes it harder with no room for your hands, put the belt back on BEFORE the fan and shroud.........i keep the ac compressor attached to the power steering bracket and move the whole bracket a little to get to the two hard to reach bolts
hi, does anyone know the bolt size/thread? the ranger I have didnt have the water pump so there are no bolts. Trying to bring this truck back up and running.
Get the rental tool from Auto Zone instead of using the adjustable wrench. The rental tool uses your breaker bar. The tool is thinner than an adjustable wrench so it fits in easier.
How did you take the pulley loose to get it to come forward!!
if you are referring to the fan pulley? watch the video. Its tricky to get it to come off
Would this be the same for a 99 Ford ranger 2.5l
no, it would not be the same. 2.5L is a different beast
If only you had this video 3 months prior to July 2016. I had, with the help of 2 others and a LONG breaker bar, turned the shaft the wrong way and snapped it clear off. I had to get a ride to the nearest auto parts(half an hour away from where I was doing the job) and pick up an electric fan to use temporarily with some shady wiring. Still using that temporary electric fan and now I've got a video to help me replace the waterpump. :D Thank you.
Sorry to hear of that. I learned this lesson when I was about 16 yrs old, rebuilding a ford mustang 289 engine. The older cars all had crank driven fans back then. An "older" wiser mechanic explained to me about the left handed threading. Makes sense. other wise the crank spinning would un-thread the fan! Good luck!
It says that the fan bolt is reverse threaded on the fan shroud.
@@deecee6161 If only folks would read it and not get in hurry.
Changing mine right now with 114 k miles. What a Task!!!
I had problem with the bolts on AC compressor bracket,this bracket has to be moved to the side in order to access the water pump.There are 5 bolts,13mm socket,2 are on the right side,in front 1 is self evident,their are 2 more.They are directly to the right and left in line with the belt tensioner down low,they are hidden in the metal channels.13mm socket,it pretty much takes a mirror,to see them.I took the belt tensioner off,easyier to get to these two.
Nice to know I'm replacing that anyways 👍
This comment helped me find that one hidden bolt, so thank you
hi sr!!! ,you video is perfect,thanks and god bless you!!!
Very good video, I'm doing it right now, where are the bolts for the AC assembly, I see the one on the front
sorry i did not get back to you sooner. you probably figured it out. but there are two other bolts back behind the AC mount. you need to loosen the entire bracket assembly. They are hard to get to. You need to feel up under there for the bolts. I think they are 13mm.
where are all the bolts to the AC bracket
I need mine done one of the bolts broke on mine trying to take it out mine is a 2001 ford ranger
do you need to take off the pulley 1st and water pump out or when you remove the water pump then you take off the pulley,
if i understand your question correctly, you need to remove the pulley first. Then the water pump.
David= thanks but why not remove the whole unit 1st and take off the water pump...?
go ahead and try. kudos if you can do it. Its real hard to get into those tight spaces.
David = I see it is the tight place...the issue...
Having trouble taking off the A/C bracke off need help asp.
good video buddy.
you don't add distilled water to 50 50 antifreeze, that's already diluted
you do add it to a full strength .
also you need yo purge the system , other wise you're going to have problems with it like not a good heat during cold winter or other problems too.
Thanks. That is correct. Perhaps you misunderstood my video. You use (full strength) antifreeze diluted 50% with distilled water. And yes, if the system has not been flushed recently it is a good idea to do so. We did so on this system.
Pretty involved and yes, let the experienced mechanics handle it. Thanks!
Love the disclaimer lol wish i would have im beat almost Halle way done haven’t got or pulled yet
I`ve never heard of PB. I always used WD-40. works for me.
Muy bien gracias!
how long take to do it ?
hi, this depends on your experience, but probably about 2 hours on average. thanks!
Excellent video, one question; did you have to remove the whole tensioner or just the pulley??
Thanks
Are you referring to the belt tensioner? I think I just removed it. One bolt.
Thank you
I always rub one out before starting a medium sized extraordinarily frustrating job leaves a grin on my mug throughout the entire task 🤓
Thanks, what a pain!
Yeah Ford never makes it easy to do any work on their trucks. Water pumps are never fun to replace. Hope this video helped some.
Thanks David, those 2 studs on the end are a mess! Have a good day!
F"in Fords
Now we know why mechanics make the BIG bucks for something that used to be simple and easy
how long did it take?
depending on experience, between 2 and 3 hours.
+David S thanks for your help!
David S hellow ,how can i remove the housing to take off the 2 bolts hidden back to the tensioner??
can you be more specific? what housing are you referring to? you mean the fan belt shroud?
Got this problem. Wish you would have shown your work rather than writing what you did. I still have no idea how to remove the pulleys to get to the one nut on the water pump. Does anyone should where these bolts are?
Real hassle with Ford trucks. I have a 93 Ranger with manual transmission and changing the clutch slave cylinder was a real pain in the butt!
I hear ya on that one. i've had to do that on a 98 Ranger. It sucks! and if you do not have the adjustment just right, you have very little play in the clutch pedal, and the clutch will NOT engage. Major pain to work on! Thanks for checking in! ds
4:00 lol rookie mistake been there done that never again air hammer or NOTHING
Just getting started watching the video and taking notes before begin the job and I noticed immediately that though order of removal list does not match the actual order of your removal. Just getting started. We will see how it goes. Film at eleven.
always replace idler when changing water pump.
U mean tensioner
antifreeze sprayed everywhere, forgot to bleed air from coolant system
Yeah sorry you had that happen. its important to drain your system before you pop that water pump off! Lessons learned, for next time.
Now I know why at AutoZone the pump just costs 15 bucks. I wonder how much it would cost a shop to do it????
Yeah, its the labor that gets ya. It would probably cost upwards of $300 to $400 because it takes about 2 to 3 hours to do!
It's a lot easier just to remove the radiator first then you can get the fan shroud out of the way while you are having to deal with that fan which is a giant pain in the ass
This would be true if you don't mind dealing with the radiator. I took the more conservative approach. To each his own perspective I guess. what ever works best for you.
I agree. I used to work at a service station & that's what my friends normally did.
I'm in the middle of doing a 2002 Mazda B3000, and if you think getting at the 13m's on a Ranger Bracket is a Bitch ... you ain't seen nothin' yet.. You description of their location is helpful. The artist renderings they consider schematics these days make me wonder what the Idiots even bothered to get a CAD degree for ... what's next stick men like cave drawings with a arrow that say put here ???
Thanks.
P.S.
If you have a 4-1/2 D Kant Twist Clamp around you can grab a hold of the Flange area behind the Fan Pulley and rotate it around till it hits, and break the Fan loose. To avoid one of the other various removal methods, we develop because the same Idiot that made the Schematic Drawings forgot to put some Flats for a Clutch Fan Wrench on the Fan Assembly.
For anyone looking to replace the water pump on a 3.0L Ranger follow the link below.I found Dav's video to be too vague to follow. If you want to see where the A/C bolts are click the link below
ruclips.net/video/903MmyYiXSQ/видео.html
For one thing how hard is it to type 3.0 when u posted this instead of (how to put a waterpump on a 99 ranger) because there not all 3.0 and i dont care anything about clicking on someone's post to listen to them talking shit for 5 mins before they say what there supposed to whenever most of the time they don't know what there doing anyway!!!!
I suppose you do not know how to read English? take a look at my description and if you read that, you will see this is for a 1999 3.0L engine! Furthermore, if one is doing work on such vehicle, and view a few minutes of my video they will be able to identify if the engine is like theirs or not. Sorry you could not figure it out.
Can't get the fucking clutch fan off!
Criss cross apple sauce baybay
Pop
Nice to show absolutely nothing
wow, what a PITA. I was going to do this before i sold the truck, but now thinking, naw. Rather go to the beach.