This is the only video I could find digging into this problem. My 14 cascadia occasionally has no crank/no start with only a slow clicking similar to a metronome. I've been fortunate enough to just keep trying the key and standing on the clutch and it's always started. I'm hoping it is just a faulty clutch switch as I can replace or bypass that. I appreciate this video because you've given me hope of where to look next if the problem persists. Thank you!
Had the same problem again this morning. Took a jumper from battery postive straight to starter solenoid and still had the same click/clunking noise. That ruled out the truck side. The truck finally decided to crank and start. Going to replace the starter later today and hopefully that will solve this problem
@@EliteDieselSolutions I replaced the starter yesterday. Starts super quick and easy now… Time will tell if it was the true fix but the old starter/solenoid was in pretty bad shape
I.m having same issues,my laptop 💻 USB cable failed due to worned down ,will fix that tomorrow,my question is how do you check resistance on big positive cable and neg cable .I know how to check small wire resistance,but something that big is harder to check
OMG, I need help. I tried to help a friend with her 2000 international DT444E by installing an inverter, the previous owner had one installed but removed it prior to sale so I decided to reuse the relay already installed but had to remove the batteries to get to it , now bus won't start or even crank just clicks when you turn the key. I have jumped the starter directly and then it cranks over but won't start. I've also checked all the fuses I could find.
Great info thanks question.. did you ever had hot air coming under the dash area.. steering wheel area while driving on a highway and then almost nothing at a full stop ? 2023 Freightliner M2 Tow truck. Thanks
You are literally the only one that made a video for this issue. Question. Is this method of diagnostics the same for 15 and 16 cascadia's with a dd15? Also the fmi that I got was 4 not 5. And when you check the continuity, do you check each pin individually or from pin to pin? My dddl said to check pin 21 from mcm to starter relay (which I'm assuming sam chassis) and continuity should be 3. The way I got it to start was by turning off my main battery cut off for 10 min but I definitely want to pin point it as I am a o.o. And I'm subbing, great content!
Yes the same concept would apply for a DD15. When checking continuity you are checking if there is a break in the wire. There is a wire that runs from Pin 3 on the X19 Sam Chassis plug to Pin 20 on the small MCM plug then it switches to a wire from Pin 21 on the small MCM plug to the top of the solenoid. In your case, I believe your wiring should be fine if you got it to start. Sounds like a faulty starter solenoid. You can swap just that unit.
@EliteDieselSolutions I appreciate your reply. I actually did the same diagnostics, however. They both came back with .01, so I started tracing my ignition wire back to the 21 pin, and sure enough, found a black/white wire that chaffed against the transmission line's to the radiator and that's where it was shorting out, started right up and all of a sudden my egr valve started functioning. It's amazing how one wire can cause a host of issues. Because of your content, you gave me a huge jump as to where to start. I'm forever great full 🙏🏼
@@EliteDieselSolutions lmao , my pops is 50 and he knows all kinds of stuff from the old school like points and whatnot , he says he has 120 years of experience 🤣🤣🤣
I like the way the truck was towed in.
Super strong men around here!
This is the only video I could find digging into this problem. My 14 cascadia occasionally has no crank/no start with only a slow clicking similar to a metronome. I've been fortunate enough to just keep trying the key and standing on the clutch and it's always started. I'm hoping it is just a faulty clutch switch as I can replace or bypass that. I appreciate this video because you've given me hope of where to look next if the problem persists. Thank you!
Had the same problem again this morning. Took a jumper from battery postive straight to starter solenoid and still had the same click/clunking noise. That ruled out the truck side. The truck finally decided to crank and start. Going to replace the starter later today and hopefully that will solve this problem
Yes to me it sounds like something on the starter side might be failing. It comes and goes.
@@EliteDieselSolutions I replaced the starter yesterday. Starts super quick and easy now… Time will tell if it was the true fix but the old starter/solenoid was in pretty bad shape
@@andrewphillips3957 That’s good to hear. She’ll be good now!
I.m having same issues,my laptop 💻 USB cable failed due to worned down ,will fix that tomorrow,my question is how do you check resistance on big positive cable and neg cable .I know how to check small wire resistance,but something that big is harder to check
love watching yall videos
Good stuff.👌🏿👌🏿👌🏿just bought a new harness
OMG, I need help. I tried to help a friend with her 2000 international DT444E by installing an inverter, the previous owner had one installed but removed it prior to sale so I decided to reuse the relay already installed but had to remove the batteries to get to it , now bus won't start or even crank just clicks when you turn the key. I have jumped the starter directly and then it cranks over but won't start. I've also checked all the fuses I could find.
Great info thanks question.. did you ever had hot air coming under the dash area.. steering wheel area while driving on a highway and then almost nothing at a full stop ? 2023 Freightliner M2 Tow truck. Thanks
You are literally the only one that made a video for this issue.
Question. Is this method of diagnostics the same for 15 and 16 cascadia's with a dd15? Also the fmi that I got was 4 not 5. And when you check the continuity, do you check each pin individually or from pin to pin?
My dddl said to check pin 21 from mcm to starter relay (which I'm assuming sam chassis) and continuity should be 3.
The way I got it to start was by turning off my main battery cut off for 10 min but I definitely want to pin point it as I am a o.o.
And I'm subbing, great content!
Yes the same concept would apply for a DD15. When checking continuity you are checking if there is a break in the wire. There is a wire that runs from Pin 3 on the X19 Sam Chassis plug to Pin 20 on the small MCM plug then it switches to a wire from Pin 21 on the small MCM plug to the top of the solenoid. In your case, I believe your wiring should be fine if you got it to start. Sounds like a faulty starter solenoid. You can swap just that unit.
@EliteDieselSolutions I appreciate your reply. I actually did the same diagnostics, however. They both came back with .01, so I started tracing my ignition wire back to the 21 pin, and sure enough, found a black/white wire that chaffed against the transmission line's to the radiator and that's where it was shorting out, started right up and all of a sudden my egr valve started functioning. It's amazing how one wire can cause a host of issues.
Because of your content, you gave me a huge jump as to where to start. I'm forever great full 🙏🏼
❤❤❤❤
nice video bro.. im a diesel tech in california if you guys ever need anything .. keep up the good work my brothers.. 🫡
Good 👍
Anyone know what part number of harness for 2018
👍🏽👍🏽
You the man ☝️
Oh yeah!
How many years do you have of experience?
47
@@EliteDieselSolutions lmao , my pops is 50 and he knows all kinds of stuff from the old school like points and whatnot , he says he has 120 years of experience 🤣🤣🤣
@@raymondromero4558 lol 120 is funny. game recognizes game
Certified Experts!
yes sir!