The information that is in the DDDL software is very helpful for me since I own my own truck. Using the software I can usually find issues before they become an issue and knock them out ahead of time.
I could watch this for hours. It's a real crime that manufactures these days hide so much of this information and too many shops will "diagnose" a 1-box replacement for nearly any issue. Those of us who own and operate this equipment won't be customers for long if we have to sink the purchase price into repairs annually. I had the dreaded 520372/16 code and two dealerships told me to ignore the "nuisance" warning until I pulled into the third to be sold a $15,000 1-box. I flatly refused, I don't buy a new car when an ABS sensor goes out. A day of google and 5 hours of regen/scr efficiency testing and the truck hadn't run better in the last 18 months.
A tech could run the regen and walk away then review the log file later on. It doesn't necessarily mean that the tech doesn't know what they are doing. Also you shouldn't really pay attention to the NOx efficiency until the last 7 minutes of the regen which can be done by reviewing the log file. Any deposits built up on the sensor needs to be burned off so an accurate reading is obtained. Also the NOx conversion can be affected by DEF build in in the ATS, you may have to do a couple of regens to burn the DEF out and then recheck the NOx efficiency. If the DOC's have face plugging it doesn't always mean that you need a new one box. When you run the regen and the DOC inlet pressure is above 2.5 PSI the DOC's are plugged. There is an alternative to the DOC face plugging routine, you can use the DOC air cleaning method. It doesn't take as long and is more effective. If you update your version of DL you can run the NOx verification test to check NOx sensors. That the preferred test because it burns off any deposits on the sensors before testing the sensors and returns a pass/fail determination. If you leave the sensor outside of the the box it wont read 100%, it won't work because it is not seeing the necessary exhaust temperature to turn on. Then you will eventually set a fault code for the outlet NOx sensor not turning on or meeting the dew point.
I'm sure both of these guys know what they're talking about, it's just that these systems are so complicated and layered that diagnoses has become an art again. The best thing that can happen is a reasoned debate among experts.
Thank you so much for that video. It was very informative that was better than any. I have seen in the past. I have a 15 Cascadia with my own computer and I thank you so much that was a big help. Please do more like that in the future. Thank you, Michael.
This is the real OG of trucking. I've spoken to him several times on the phone - the amount of information this guy retains in his brain is impressive.
New subscriber here. Nice video on the DiagnosticLink. There was a couple of items you talked about and will be able to understand a bit more for my job. Looking forward to watching more of your videos. 👍
Your more recent videos have the comments turned off so I hope you read this. From what I’ve seen so far watching your channel you’re doing a much better job of actually being helpful so I’m hoping I can ask you if you could make a video showing how to do things on the one box like change out nox sensors. I carry on my truck in and out nox sensors as well as a doser valve. Just in case I need one on the road. One problem I have is I don’t know which nox sensor is which on the one box. The new ones look exactly the same to me and I had to look up part numbers and write on the box it came it which is which. A video on replacing these sensors, dosser valve, maybe installing this new shield Detroit has available. Basically a tour of the one box. Also… where are you guys located. I need a mechanic I can TRUST!
Dude you’re the best! What happens when my truck throws a shit load of white exhaust and wants me to do a p regen. I will do a regen. And then I will just take off and haul ass . For about 20 miles it will smoke like crazy then all of a sudden it stop smoking and it’s fine for about 8 hours . Then I have to do it all again. I’m guessing my doser is staying stuck open or isn’t injecting fuel it’s probably dumping fuel
Question...If, during a regen, the SCR Outlet NOx Sensor is reading say 400ppm and the SCR inlet NOx Sensor was say 300ppm...what could be the cause of that?
Great video. Could you do another on another kind of vehicle. Its a little hard to see the readings. I got a peterbilts I work on but my reading dont have everything you got.
Question? I have a truck I put a new one box on for high doc pressure 2.548 and higher. Replaced the one box and pressure is higher than it was before replacing doc and dpf. Updated mcm,cpc etc. Any info on why I'm seeing this
I had fault code, for nox raw...can't remember the actual spn/fmi. I ran Regen numbers looked good and both nox dew point turned green. However, nox inlet was 1650ppm and outlet 3ppm and nox conversion stayed 0.0255 thru whole test. Co worker threw inlet nox sensor. Would that be remedy to that issue.?
Hey man got a cuestión. I have a 2014 freightliner 114sd Detroit dd13 and start the regeneración and during the first 20 minutes it's the combertion is at 90 % and start dropping down the 40 % but it does gradually. I replace the DPF filters with a new because there were cracked and bot of the nox sensors doser injector and the pump the DEF light still flashing
So I was trying to do a regen for the 1st time with 2018 pete with a px7 engine. Temps got to 1,100. Warning came on the dash exhaust temp high. Is that normal? Smoke was coming out from under the hood, no coolant leaks but coolant temp got to 210 then dropped down. I didn't like that so I'm thinking thermostat is sticking. I shut the truck off cause I was afraid something was wrong. Im going to change the thermostat tomorrow and try again. No one at my shop is familiar with def system. Should I have continued with the regen? Also i did notice soot level said 71% or is it too clogged to do a safe regen?
You were regen'ing. You would expect hot exhaust, no? That light is only there to warn you from parking on dead grass. Smoke can be from a lot of things, but basically your engine is getting much hotter than it normally would, so anything lingering is going to smoke-off. I had an oil leak from up front that coated just about everything back to the diffs and when I regened the damn truck looked like it was on fire. There IS A DANGER, but it just requires you to monitor the situation. Pop the hood and walk around every few minutes until the gunk burns off.
Do you have a way to contact you. I’ve got a p2002 code on a 20 6.7ps. I’ve done a lot of home work, data logging etc and thinks it’s something simple and wanted to ask a few questions.
cool vid dude, ty , can you answer a question please , low soot, running fine , if i need to park regen ever with low soot it wont let me , says not allowed , is this always like this , i am trying to have a piece of mind if i ever need to park regen would i be able too when soot is higher since it is not allowing me now with low soot would it let me with higher soot , thanks in advance
@jimmyking9023 I’m assuming you have one of the new Cascadia’s (2018-present). If the screen says spot level good it won’t allow you to do a parked regen or active regen until the spot level is higher. When the screen displays “Soot Level Okay” it will allow you to do a parked regen, or it will automatically do an active regen while driving and that is just as effective as a parked regen. The system is essentially protecting the after treatment system from unnecessary excessive temperatures. The most important thing is that you don’t ever shut the truck off while doing a regen! The extremely high temperatures can crack your DPF and cause several other issues leading to very expensive repairs, so always allow the truck to finish the regen and then let everything cool down for at least 10+ minutes. I hope this helps!
I have a 2013 Dd15 just after a overhaul driver states truck has power loss issues when I put computer and ran diagnostics it is displaying fault code 1077 internal or external leakage in high pressure fuel system. Would that contribute to his loss of power?
@oraliaornelas5742 I’m not a certified diesel mechanic, but I know a lot about these engines and their after treatment systems. One of the first things I would look at is the fuel quantity valve because they’re notorious for causing a loop at idle, and they can definitely be the cause of reduced power. However, the fuel leakage part seems like it could be an issue with something in the fuel system. These high pressure common rail fuel systems run at a pressure of 20-30,000 psi, and any small part not working right can cause a lot of issues. It’s hard to say without actually seeing the engine, but Detroit has had a lot of problems with their fuel quantity valves, and it’s very easy to diagnose. With the engine idling at low idle if the engine slightly drops from 600 rpm then goes back up and does this constantly (you’ll be able to tell because it’s very annoying) then there’s definitely an issue with the fuel quantity valve even if that isn’t the cause for the code. The best way to prevent the fuel quantity valve from going bad is to run a fuel additive that increases lubrication, and avoid idling at low idle as much as possible. High idle if you’re driver has to idle the truck, but it’s best to reduce idling as much as possible because it causes a ton of after treatment issues. I hope this helps!
From Detroit? ~$5000/yr membership. Do what I did, buy a cheapish laptop (I bought a 2 generation-old Toughbook for $400), buy the NEXIQ (400 for V.2, 900 for V.3 w/ bluetooth which you should never use), then go on ebay and buy DDDL for ~$100, make sure your getting the highest version #. They'll remote in and install it, make sure you get the "backdoor keygen" as well. Now you have top-level access and the russians have so thoroughly infected this machine that it would infect AIDS with covid. You will/must NEVER connect this computer to internet again and it will serve no function other than DL. Do not ever check your email or plug anything into it. No phones, no USB sticks, no mice or keyboards that will ever come into contact with another computer. Be very careful with your newfound power, you have greater rights than any FL tech and can give them a real bad day trying to unfuck your handiwork.
From Detroit? ~$5000/yr membership. Do what I did, buy a cheapish laptop (I bought a 2 generation-old Toughbook for $400), buy the NEXIQ (400 for V.2, 900 for V.3 w/ bluetooth which you should never use), then go on ebay and buy DDDL for ~$100, make sure your getting the highest version #. They'll remote in and install it, make sure you get the "backdoor keygen" as well. Now you have top-level access and the russians have so thoroughly infected this machine that it would infect AIDS with covid. You will/must NEVER connect this computer to internet again and it will serve no function other than DL. Do not ever check your email or plug anything into it. No phones, no USB sticks, no mice or keyboards that will ever come into contact with another computer. Be very careful with your newfound power, you have greater rights than any FL tech and can give them a real bad day trying to unfuck your handiwork.
You know a lot, but not a lot. Decent explanation bad advice. You have a lot more to learn before putting out this info. But good enough for starting techs.
Question? I have a truck I put a new one box on for high doc pressure 2.548 and higher. Replaced the one box and pressure is higher than it was before replacing doc and dpf. Updated mcm,cpc etc. Any info on why I'm seeing this.
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I could watch the computer diagnostics videos for hours and hours. It feeds my brain. Love it!
The information that is in the DDDL software is very helpful for me since I own my own truck. Using the software I can usually find issues before they become an issue and knock them out ahead of time.
@@thecoolmaster1999this software should really come with the truck. A built in laptop into the dashboard with Detroit link. Would be way less issues 😂
I could watch this for hours. It's a real crime that manufactures these days hide so much of this information and too many shops will "diagnose" a 1-box replacement for nearly any issue. Those of us who own and operate this equipment won't be customers for long if we have to sink the purchase price into repairs annually. I had the dreaded 520372/16 code and two dealerships told me to ignore the "nuisance" warning until I pulled into the third to be sold a $15,000 1-box. I flatly refused, I don't buy a new car when an ABS sensor goes out. A day of google and 5 hours of regen/scr efficiency testing and the truck hadn't run better in the last 18 months.
A tech could run the regen and walk away then review the log file later on. It doesn't necessarily mean that the tech doesn't know what they are doing. Also you shouldn't really pay attention to the NOx efficiency until the last 7 minutes of the regen which can be done by reviewing the log file. Any deposits built up on the sensor needs to be burned off so an accurate reading is obtained. Also the NOx conversion can be affected by DEF build in in the ATS, you may have to do a couple of regens to burn the DEF out and then recheck the NOx efficiency. If the DOC's have face plugging it doesn't always mean that you need a new one box. When you run the regen and the DOC inlet pressure is above 2.5 PSI the DOC's are plugged. There is an alternative to the DOC face plugging routine, you can use the DOC air cleaning method. It doesn't take as long and is more effective. If you update your version of DL you can run the NOx verification test to check NOx sensors. That the preferred test because it burns off any deposits on the sensors before testing the sensors and returns a pass/fail determination. If you leave the sensor outside of the the box it wont read 100%, it won't work because it is not seeing the necessary exhaust temperature to turn on. Then you will eventually set a fault code for the outlet NOx sensor not turning on or meeting the dew point.
Can you tellme that ddl version to update Nox verification test.
You should create some videos, you seem to have the knowledge many people seek.
this man sounds like he knows whats he talking about
I'm sure both of these guys know what they're talking about, it's just that these systems are so complicated and layered that diagnoses has become an art again. The best thing that can happen is a reasoned debate among experts.
Starting working in the diesel mechanics and this video really helpful appreciate you bro
Thank you so much for that video. It was very informative that was better than any. I have seen in the past. I have a 15 Cascadia with my own computer and I thank you so much that was a big help. Please do more like that in the future. Thank you, Michael.
This is the real OG of trucking. I've spoken to him several times on the phone - the amount of information this guy retains in his brain is impressive.
Awesome video needed a better understanding on these regens..1 truck a week going into derate now i know what to look for...
New subscriber here. Nice video on the DiagnosticLink. There was a couple of items you talked about and will be able to understand a bit more for my job. Looking forward to watching more of your videos. 👍
Your more recent videos have the comments turned off so I hope you read this. From what I’ve seen so far watching your channel you’re doing a much better job of actually being helpful so I’m hoping I can ask you if you could make a video showing how to do things on the one box like change out nox sensors. I carry on my truck in and out nox sensors as well as a doser valve. Just in case I need one on the road. One problem I have is I don’t know which nox sensor is which on the one box. The new ones look exactly the same to me and I had to look up part numbers and write on the box it came it which is which.
A video on replacing these sensors, dosser valve, maybe installing this new shield Detroit has available. Basically a tour of the one box.
Also… where are you guys located. I need a mechanic I can TRUST!
He is a very good instructor. 👍
I have known it all good bro, nox sensor out and have a nice day ;). Great video, explanation and entry level lesson.
Thank you, God bless
I work at a ta were not allowed to force Regen unless it's after fixing a problem. But I'm still pretty green on dpf stuff so...alot to learn
Thanks for the video good information hope to see more videos
Great job whit the explanation thanks for the help and information 👍
Great video, tons of info!
Is it possible for you to make a video tutorial how to check cylinder compression using DDL?
Dude you’re the best! What happens when my truck throws a shit load of white exhaust and wants me to do a p regen. I will do a regen. And then I will just take off and haul ass . For about 20 miles it will smoke like crazy then all of a sudden it stop smoking and it’s fine for about 8 hours . Then I have to do it all again. I’m guessing my doser is staying stuck open or isn’t injecting fuel it’s probably dumping fuel
This is an awesome video, it is so informative
It's grams/hour not gallons per hour. If the ecu was requesting 1100 gallons per hour the 30 gallon tank on the truck would be empty in like 5 seconds
My truck is at 500 g/h is that normal? DD13
Not sure what they should be at but as long as u don't have mil on i wouldnt worry
Thanks for thus info. Now i know a bit more of have this works 👍
Everything you said in the first 2 minutes happened to me ….loves put me in a regen and walked away. Everything cleared until about an hour later
Great video.
Question...If, during a regen, the SCR Outlet NOx Sensor is reading say 400ppm and the SCR inlet NOx Sensor was say 300ppm...what could be the cause of that?
Great video. Could you do another on another kind of vehicle. Its a little hard to see the readings. I got a peterbilts I work on but my reading dont have everything you got.
Thank you for your video and I have a truck that have DPF Filter Efficiency too low , spn 520349 fm 14 , do you have any idea what this is about?
Fuel cutoff valve opening to 100% doesn't mean it's dosing yet. Goes through an 8-12 minute DOC burnoff phase.
Otherwise pretty good video
One of the best video
Can you change adaptive cruise control following distance on a 2023 cascadia?
What tells the doser to inject fuel and what tell the turbo isn’t to boost during regen?
In all fairness, you can run a regen on your truck and walk away. and come back and look at the log file of that regen in diagnostic link.
Question? I have a truck I put a new one box on for high doc pressure 2.548 and higher. Replaced the one box and pressure is higher than it was before replacing doc and dpf. Updated mcm,cpc etc.
Any info on why I'm seeing this
Wonder why he doesn’t post anymore videos?
I had fault code, for nox raw...can't remember the actual spn/fmi. I ran Regen numbers looked good and both nox dew point turned green. However, nox inlet was 1650ppm and outlet 3ppm and nox conversion stayed 0.0255 thru whole test. Co worker threw inlet nox sensor. Would that be remedy to that issue.?
Good stuff
What kind diagnostic program you use
Where is your shop
Hey man got a cuestión.
I have a 2014 freightliner 114sd Detroit dd13 and start the regeneración and during the first 20 minutes it's the combertion is at 90 % and start dropping down the 40 % but it does gradually.
I replace the DPF filters with a new because there were cracked and bot of the nox sensors doser injector and the pump the DEF light still flashing
You ever fix issue?
Is it normal for truck to puff white smoke when driving...?
Good Morning can you please explain fault code SPN 655 FMI 5? Thank you
What happens when ur not converting NOX well and I replaced the outlet NOX sensor
My DEF quantity is at 400-500 g/h what can be issue? I don't get any CEL about that. I do have SCR nox low efficiency
What’s after treatment problem means
So I was trying to do a regen for the 1st time with 2018 pete with a px7 engine. Temps got to 1,100. Warning came on the dash exhaust temp high. Is that normal? Smoke was coming out from under the hood, no coolant leaks but coolant temp got to 210 then dropped down. I didn't like that so I'm thinking thermostat is sticking. I shut the truck off cause I was afraid something was wrong. Im going to change the thermostat tomorrow and try again. No one at my shop is familiar with def system. Should I have continued with the regen? Also i did notice soot level said 71% or is it too clogged to do a safe regen?
You were regen'ing. You would expect hot exhaust, no? That light is only there to warn you from parking on dead grass. Smoke can be from a lot of things, but basically your engine is getting much hotter than it normally would, so anything lingering is going to smoke-off. I had an oil leak from up front that coated just about everything back to the diffs and when I regened the damn truck looked like it was on fire. There IS A DANGER, but it just requires you to monitor the situation. Pop the hood and walk around every few minutes until the gunk burns off.
Do you have a way to contact you. I’ve got a p2002 code on a 20 6.7ps. I’ve done a lot of home work, data logging etc and thinks it’s something simple and wanted to ask a few questions.
cool vid dude, ty , can you answer a question please , low soot, running fine , if i need to park regen ever with low soot it wont let me , says not allowed , is this always like this , i am trying to have a piece of mind if i ever need to park regen would i be able too when soot is higher since it is not allowing me now with low soot would it let me with higher soot , thanks in advance
@jimmyking9023 I’m assuming you have one of the new Cascadia’s (2018-present). If the screen says spot level good it won’t allow you to do a parked regen or active regen until the spot level is higher. When the screen displays “Soot Level Okay” it will allow you to do a parked regen, or it will automatically do an active regen while driving and that is just as effective as a parked regen. The system is essentially protecting the after treatment system from unnecessary excessive temperatures. The most important thing is that you don’t ever shut the truck off while doing a regen! The extremely high temperatures can crack your DPF and cause several other issues leading to very expensive repairs, so always allow the truck to finish the regen and then let everything cool down for at least 10+ minutes. I hope this helps!
I have a 2013 Dd15 just after a overhaul driver states truck has power loss issues when I put computer and ran diagnostics it is displaying fault code 1077 internal or external leakage in high pressure fuel system. Would that contribute to his loss of power?
@oraliaornelas5742 I’m not a certified diesel mechanic, but I know a lot about these engines and their after treatment systems. One of the first things I would look at is the fuel quantity valve because they’re notorious for causing a loop at idle, and they can definitely be the cause of reduced power. However, the fuel leakage part seems like it could be an issue with something in the fuel system. These high pressure common rail fuel systems run at a pressure of 20-30,000 psi, and any small part not working right can cause a lot of issues. It’s hard to say without actually seeing the engine, but Detroit has had a lot of problems with their fuel quantity valves, and it’s very easy to diagnose. With the engine idling at low idle if the engine slightly drops from 600 rpm then goes back up and does this constantly (you’ll be able to tell because it’s very annoying) then there’s definitely an issue with the fuel quantity valve even if that isn’t the cause for the code. The best way to prevent the fuel quantity valve from going bad is to run a fuel additive that increases lubrication, and avoid idling at low idle as much as possible. High idle if you’re driver has to idle the truck, but it’s best to reduce idling as much as possible because it causes a ton of after treatment issues. I hope this helps!
How nox sensor looks like?
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
What if you delete it ?
How much could cost this diagnostic link to buy ?
From Detroit? ~$5000/yr membership. Do what I did, buy a cheapish laptop (I bought a 2 generation-old Toughbook for $400), buy the NEXIQ (400 for V.2, 900 for V.3 w/ bluetooth which you should never use), then go on ebay and buy DDDL for ~$100, make sure your getting the highest version #. They'll remote in and install it, make sure you get the "backdoor keygen" as well.
Now you have top-level access and the russians have so thoroughly infected this machine that it would infect AIDS with covid. You will/must NEVER connect this computer to internet again and it will serve no function other than DL. Do not ever check your email or plug anything into it. No phones, no USB sticks, no mice or keyboards that will ever come into contact with another computer.
Be very careful with your newfound power, you have greater rights than any FL tech and can give them a real bad day trying to unfuck your handiwork.
Whats the best way to get this ddl software
From Detroit? ~$5000/yr membership. Do what I did, buy a cheapish laptop (I bought a 2 generation-old Toughbook for $400), buy the NEXIQ (400 for V.2, 900 for V.3 w/ bluetooth which you should never use), then go on ebay and buy DDDL for ~$100, make sure your getting the highest version #. They'll remote in and install it, make sure you get the "backdoor keygen" as well.
Now you have top-level access and the russians have so thoroughly infected this machine that it would infect AIDS with covid. You will/must NEVER connect this computer to internet again and it will serve no function other than DL. Do not ever check your email or plug anything into it. No phones, no USB sticks, no mice or keyboards that will ever come into contact with another computer.
Be very careful with your newfound power, you have greater rights than any FL tech and can give them a real bad day trying to unfuck your handiwork.
Sorry what can that be
You know a lot, but not a lot. Decent explanation bad advice. You have a lot more to learn before putting out this info. But good enough for starting techs.
Question? I have a truck I put a new one box on for high doc pressure 2.548 and higher. Replaced the one box and pressure is higher than it was before replacing doc and dpf. Updated mcm,cpc etc.
Any info on why I'm seeing this.