Yours is the most comprehensible explanation of the Festool KS 120 on RUclips. Partly that is because you have taken the trouble to show as well as tell and partly because you tell clearly and at an appropriate rate. Thank you.
Chris Stevens Hi Chris, The Kapex was my very first Festool purchase. I had spent about 8 weeks researching both radial arm saws and mitre saws. The Kapex was by far the best in all of my research. I love it and it is a huge contributor to my woodworking enjoyment. Peter
Hi Peter, I really beat myself up over the purchase of the Kapex 120REB. It's the one saw I've long been after and I recently took the plunge. It's a pricey saw but after January next year and Brexit there's only one way prices will go and that is up! I was really laughing to myself when I watched your part 1 video about the method of starting the Kapex. For half an hour of so I coudn't get the saw going and I was sure there was a fault on the machine so much so I telephoned Festool UK for tech help! Now I'm up to speed with the trigger start up thanks to you. Best regards, Richard
Hi Richard, It is a funny thing but some of us get it right first time and some need a second go. Once you get it then things are dead easy. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter. I have found that with the correct blade, the Kapex cuts aluminium very well too. I usually spray the blade and kerf with a suitable cutting and lubrication compound. This cuts down the possibility of the cut welding through heat buildup. The saw also works better on a slower speed. The Festool aluminium blade gives many hundreds of hours cutting before it requires sharpening. Thanks for another great demonstration.
Excellent video Peter, I have a Kapex, good to recap on all the features, didn't know about the laser window removal for cleaning! Following your videos i now have, Kapex, Rotex 150, Domino XL, CT Midi, MFT3, TS55 R, CMS with TS55 module and router module extension tables and sliding table, and my 1400 router! I absolutely love these tools, they are so well thought out, and your videos really help me make the most of them, thanks Peter
Hi Nick, Thank you and well done for choosing such good tools. When I was doing my research for new tools three years ago there was not enough information readily available to help me make a decision. I hope that my videos help to fill that gap. I am learning all the time and still doing research. I have recently discovered Festool Centrotec and am now an absolute fan of the system. I am sure that more will follow. I will do my best to continue to help you and everyone else. Thanks again. Peter
Very nice review Peter. I have spent almost two months reviewing a variety of slider, miter saws. For me, low dust is critical due to the mess and the risk of inhaling too many particles, having had pneuomonia I am very susceptible to lung conditions. Yes wearing a mask helps, but the less mess around means less to breath. Accurate cutting, useful laser, smooth slider, light magnesium base for transport and incredilbly well known customer support. I am getting one next week for a variety of projects. It needs to pay for itself now. Thanks much, Peter. You confirmed my thoughts.
***** I am so glad that my video has helped. I started making videos after trying to find information to help me make the decision about buying my Kapex. It is ironic that it took me so long to actually make the Kapex video. Good luck with the new machine. You might want to look at my workshop dust study video which does show that the Kapex is excellent on the dust collection front. I use my Festool CT 26 with mine. Peter
Hi Peter, I found that when I got a pair of the crown molding extensions one of the two was not co-planar with the deck of the saw. Tried it on both sides with same result. It sat at a slight incline so the far edge away from the saw drooped about 1mm. This made it so if I clamped a piece of wood with a clamp in the t slot, it ended up at a slight angle lifting the piece just a bit where the blade was. I took it back to my local Festool dealer and they let me go through what stock they had and try each one on a saw they had in the store. Each one had the same issue. They then called up Festool tech support and were told that the design of the attachment did not insure that the surface of the extension would be coplanar with the saw since it was intended to be used with the sliding plastic stop for crown moldings. So I took my extension back home and adde a some shims to get it coplanar. Have you had any issues like this? Thanks, -Tom
Tom McGre Hi Tom, I have not had any problems like that at all. I do not follow the logic of what your dealer said. I think that your solution makes sense but what a pity you have had to do this. Despite that, it is still the best mitre saw on the market. Peter
Hi sorry peter, oh boy I probably wrote the name down wrong, it’s a Festool chop saw that looks like a step down version of yours except it seems to be targeted at mitre or off mitre cuts as the saw itself doesn’t swivel but instead the support back plates do. When you swivel one fence the opposite fence also moves, so for a cut you simply put your bevel gage against both fences and the cut is automatically bisected for you. With your saw I know it comes with its own bevel finder that you set using the laser. I’m beginning to think I dreamt this saw up ha. Sorry again about the confusion.
Hi peter, I love your demo of the saw. I was looking but failed to locate your video on the compound sym 70 E mitre saw and wondered which saw you liked best and why? Cheers, great videos as always
Peter, I'm having a problem that seems to have happened to many who have commented on youtube. It's that the Kapex's dust collection is TERRIBLE!. I followed your suggestion to put zero clearance inserts on the base and the fence. The one on the base doesn't seem to cause a problem, but I wondered if the one on the fence was blocking the path that the dust should take to the rubber dust hood at the back/bottom of the saw blade. I removed the insert from the fence, and split the halves of the fence apart so that it didn't interfere with the rubber dust hood - it's a pain anyway when the hood gets stuck on the fence as you pull the saw back. Then I notice in your video and others that your rubber hood goes almost all the way down to the base, but that there was about an inch of space between mine and the base. I dummied up a 1 inch extension to the hood out of duct tape and trimmed it so that it doesn't get caught on the fence as you pull it back. Now - well, it's not perfect, but it's much better than it was. When sitting on a low rolling chair and looking at the dust hood while making a cut, before, a lot of the dust was going under the hood. Now, with my extension, it's going right up into the saw. I noticed that you and some others who praised the dust collection have the 120 EB, whereas I have the 120 REB. I also noticed that the EB's dust port is different than the one on the REB. Do you have any insight into this problem, or perhaps can get info from Festool?
Hi Bob, You are right that the zero clearance pieces that we make and fit ourselves do interfere with the dust collection but the effect, for me, is quite minor. It would become more pronounced if one was cutting thicker stock. As far as the design of the dust boot goes I believe that they are the same. There may be technique issues... Starting a cut the instant the saw is triggered does not allow the extractor to reach full flow. Also, keeping the Kapex in the down position until the saw blade ceases to rotate will improve dust collection. The final thing is expectation...Yes, the Kapex is great at dust collection but that is compared to the majority of other saws on the market. Some dust will always get through. I came from a Dewalt radial arm saw to the Kapex and the difference was amazing. Peter
Douglas Mooney Hi Douglas, The insert that goes under the saw blade has the same length and thickness as the Festool inserts and just measure the width for a one piece solution. The sacrificial pieces on the sliding fences are 10 mm thick and just cover the metal fence elements with an extra 20 - 30 mm on the inside to give safe clearance for the saw blade when doing the sacrificial (zero) cut. Let me know if that is not clear enough. Cheers. Peter
So I bought this machine and it’s really great. The only downside I am finding it’s it’s awkward to carry. I am a site carpenter so I’m always hauling this thing in and out of home. Any suggestions? Great video
Hello Peter, hope you're staying safe! Just a quick question on Kapex, I am renovating my summerhouse whilst we're in confinement. I need to cut some 9" x 3" beams. Would you do that in one pass on Kapex 120 or perhaps 2 or 3? It seemed to be struggling a little a couple of days ago so this morning I've made the cuts in 2/3 passes. Ive had it 3 years with modest home workshop use.
Hi George, There are a number of factors that can affect the efficiency of cutting - dull blade, wood not supported equally on both sides and too much force by the operator. If you detect a burning smell at any stage or scorching of the cut faces then check these out. Otherwise, take the cuts slowly and remember that if your wood is not perfectly flat that as you cut one side or both will try and move. Peter
Hi Peter, thank you for producing this very informativ video! I have one question on clamping. Is it not dangerous to clamp both ends of a work piece down? Thank you
Hi Henning, If you always allow the saw to stop before lifting then it should be fine. Better to keep everything in one place than have half of it flying around the workshop ! Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter. I have recently purchased one of these and have a question regarding the dust extraction. You mention in your video (one of reasons I purchased this) that the dust extraction is second to none. I am not experiencing that. I have made sure the rubber boot is connected properly. But am still experiencing quite a bit of dust. Still not as much as other saws, sure.. Yet far more dust than I have seen in video review all over.. Any tips on making sure I am extracting correctly? I am using a festool midi vac, set up above the saw through a shortened green festool hose. Thanks
+cynicaloptimist Hi Mr Optimist, It is best to ensure that the extractor is up to speed before starting the cut - this is only a second and a half. Also, I use a short section of 36 mm hose between the Kapex and the extractor - this makes a huge difference. 27 mm hose is not good enough. Peter
+New Brit Workshop (Peter) Hi and thanks again.. Ok so I am going to get a larger diameter hose. Would it be worth going up to the 50mm hose.. Which can be purchased by the meter. Or is the 36mm ample in your opinion.. ? Also, did you have to tweak the saw in a few places so it would cut 100% square. Mine seems about 2mm out over a 300mm cut. Would have though it would ship at 100% but it is tweak-able right? Thanks
I have not tried the 50 mm hose but am perfectly satisfied with the short length of 36 mm. Yes, you can adjust the saw very easily. Take a look at the US Supplemental Manual www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/kapex-ks120-supplemental-manual.pdf Peter
Hi Henning, You can do the tenon if the size fits in with the Kapex trenching range but the mortice has to be done with either a router or a hammer and chisel. Peter
+Arnold Smith Hi Arnold, They are the same as the sacrificial inserts that came with the saw - without taking the ones I made out I cannot measure them. They must be about 6 mm at a guess. Peter
Swedish Holmberg Many thanks for the kind words in your previous post. That large piece behind the Kapex is my dust catcher which stops anything going down behind. It is a piece of Formica covered chipboard left over from an ancient project. It works. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter. Do you know if it's possible to fit the festool LED light in the 120 to use the shadow line like the Kapex 60? Personally I don't trust the accuracy of the lasers although you can adjust them.
Hi Cathal, I do not think that a shadow line can be created with the KS120. Do have a go at adjusting the lasers if they are not right. Mine are as accurate as I can get them. I agree that they are not quite as good as the KS60 but I only use them for approximate work. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I haven't actually bought the Kapex yet. I'm torn between the KS 6O and KS 120, I'm going to just be using it for 2nd fixing so I'm wondering would the 60 be sufficient for that work? Also, do you think the dust extraction is better on the 120?
For 2nd fix I would not hesitate to get the KS60 as it should have all the capacity that you need and be a little lighter and less expensive. It is a great saw. For a fixed workshop I would always go for the KS120 - mine is brilliant. Peter
Hi Tom, I have been buying tools and other bits from Axminster for over 30 years. Their customer service is fantastic and they really do go the extra mile when it comes to after sales service. Their store staff are also excellent as they understand the woodworking community so well and certainly know their stuff when it comes to tools. Although you might pay £5 more for the Dewalt from Axminster it will be worth every penny as you will have their excellent support should you have any issues at all. Peter
Nobody knows the details about what you were doing with the machine, whether it was set up correctly or what Festool then did as it happened within the warranty period. I expect you got your money back. Peter
This is not a rant against you! I'm a finish carpenter I did nothing to this machine that I hadn't done with my Bosch(s). The machine was set by me to spec!! My point is this: the most expensive miter saw ever put in the market burnt out in only three months of use. We use a lot of 3/4 MDF nothing else and nobody else ever used it besides me. No such luck they would not give my money back. I used a Bosch for almost 6 years I only have in to the kapex because I own a few Festool tools and for a better dust collection. Best regards!
You should insist on getting a repair or your money back. The Kapex is not cheap and should be able to withstand just about anything that can be thrown at it - where are you based and who supplied the machine? Peter
This was one of the things that I looked at when I was considering the Kapex. Its cutting capacity (305 mm x 88 mm) is pretty close to what you get from a 12" machine. I do not do any roofing any more but even so would manage perfectly with the Kapex. Peter
Peter Parfitt in know what depth the kapex cuts peter that is why I said the need to make a 12in model, I have the older version of the dewalt 708 it has a 300 x 100 mm cut, the new version of the dewalt & the Makita is a joke, very poor quality thin casting, I would not give them house room, like most of the manufacturers they have scrimped on the quality but not passed that saving on to the customers as the new dewalt & Makita is still around £700 for a lesser quality machine, you were right to look around first peter, kind regards.
Well that only took a little over 2 minutes. Never mind the price, that trigger bullshit just took this saw out of consideration. Thanks for the video tho.
+MarginWalker I find the trigger second nature now and if someone comes into the workshop they are unlikely to be able to start the saw by accident. Peter
Yours is the most comprehensible explanation of the Festool KS 120 on RUclips. Partly that is because you have taken the trouble to show as well as tell and partly because you tell clearly and at an appropriate rate. Thank you.
Hi Mark, Thank you very much. Peter
Got mine yesterday after 4 months of waiting, now I'm watching your review again :)
Have fun!
Thank you for the help in changing my saw blade. I couldn't find it so quickly in the Manuel so I thought ... I'll just see how Peter does it.
Hi Rob, I hope you are all set up now. Cheers. Peter
Thanks for doing this video Peter, well worth the wait. By the way, you are costing me a fortune with all these great reviews. Just ordered my Kapex.
Chris Stevens Hi Chris, The Kapex was my very first Festool purchase. I had spent about 8 weeks researching both radial arm saws and mitre saws. The Kapex was by far the best in all of my research. I love it and it is a huge contributor to my woodworking enjoyment. Peter
Hi Peter, I really beat myself up over the purchase of the Kapex 120REB. It's the one saw I've long been after and I recently took the plunge. It's a pricey saw but after January next year and Brexit there's only one way prices will go and that is up! I was really laughing to myself when I watched your part 1 video about the method of starting the Kapex. For half an hour of so I coudn't get the saw going and I was sure there was a fault on the machine so much so I telephoned Festool UK for tech help! Now I'm up to speed with the trigger start up thanks to you. Best regards, Richard
Hi Richard, It is a funny thing but some of us get it right first time and some need a second go. Once you get it then things are dead easy. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter. I have found that with the correct blade, the Kapex cuts aluminium very well too. I usually spray the blade and kerf with a suitable cutting and lubrication compound. This cuts down the possibility of the cut welding through heat buildup. The saw also works better on a slower speed. The Festool aluminium blade gives many hundreds of hours cutting before it requires sharpening. Thanks for another great demonstration.
+Stewart Robertson Many thanks (again) Stewart. Peter
Great video good to have you back!
Hi Dave, I was not that far away - just cycling in Holland. Cheers. Peter
Excelent review and explanation of the Kapex. I've had mine over a year now and just found out from you that the clamp fits on the right side also!
Excellent video Peter, I have a Kapex, good to recap on all the features, didn't know about the laser window removal for cleaning! Following your videos i now have, Kapex, Rotex 150, Domino XL, CT Midi, MFT3, TS55 R, CMS with TS55 module and router module extension tables and sliding table, and my 1400 router! I absolutely love these tools, they are so well thought out, and your videos really help me make the most of them, thanks Peter
Hi Nick, Thank you and well done for choosing such good tools. When I was doing my research for new tools three years ago there was not enough information readily available to help me make a decision. I hope that my videos help to fill that gap. I am learning all the time and still doing research. I have recently discovered Festool Centrotec and am now an absolute fan of the system. I am sure that more will follow. I will do my best to continue to help you and everyone else. Thanks again. Peter
total agree with your submision of the Kapex having had mine for 3/4 years I Love it to bits many thanks Peter
Thanks Harry - it is certainly the best saw I have ever used. Peter
Excellent review. Thanks :)
Glad it was helpful!
Very nice review Peter. I have spent almost two months reviewing a variety of slider, miter saws. For me, low dust is critical due to the mess and the risk of inhaling too many particles, having had pneuomonia I am very susceptible to lung conditions. Yes wearing a mask helps, but the less mess around means less to breath. Accurate cutting, useful laser, smooth slider, light magnesium base for transport and incredilbly well known customer support. I am getting one next week for a variety of projects. It needs to pay for itself now. Thanks much, Peter. You confirmed my thoughts.
***** I am so glad that my video has helped. I started making videos after trying to find information to help me make the decision about buying my Kapex. It is ironic that it took me so long to actually make the Kapex video. Good luck with the new machine. You might want to look at my workshop dust study video which does show that the Kapex is excellent on the dust collection front. I use my Festool CT 26 with mine. Peter
New Brit Workshop Thank you for the tips, I do appreciate it. I look forward to watching more of your videos. Thank you. William.
Beautiful saw and setup!
Chris
Thanks Chris. You are absolutely right - this is the best mitre saw that I have ever used. Many thanks. Peter
Thanks for another great review peter I appreciate the time you take to do the videos it makes it easier to buy festools
Cheers
Robert
Hi Robert,It is lovely to know that I am appreciated - many thanks, Peter
Hi Peter,
I found that when I got a pair of the crown molding extensions one of the two was not co-planar with the deck of the saw. Tried it on both sides with same result. It sat at a slight incline so the far edge away from the saw drooped about 1mm. This made it so if I clamped a piece of wood with a clamp in the t slot, it ended up at a slight angle lifting the piece just a bit where the blade was.
I took it back to my local Festool dealer and they let me go through what stock they had and try each one on a saw they had in the store. Each one had the same issue. They then called up Festool tech support and were told that the design of the attachment did not insure that the surface of the extension would be coplanar with the saw since it was intended to be used with the sliding plastic stop for crown moldings.
So I took my extension back home and adde a some shims to get it coplanar.
Have you had any issues like this?
Thanks,
-Tom
Tom McGre Hi Tom, I have not had any problems like that at all. I do not follow the logic of what your dealer said. I think that your solution makes sense but what a pity you have had to do this. Despite that, it is still the best mitre saw on the market. Peter
Hi sorry peter, oh boy I probably wrote the name down wrong, it’s a Festool chop saw that looks like a step down version of yours except it seems to be targeted at mitre or off mitre cuts as the saw itself doesn’t swivel but instead the support back plates do. When you swivel one fence the opposite fence also moves, so for a cut you simply put your bevel gage against both fences and the cut is automatically bisected for you. With your saw I know it comes with its own bevel finder that you set using the laser. I’m beginning to think I dreamt this saw up ha. Sorry again about the confusion.
No problem. I have the Kapex KS 120 and I have made a video about the new Kapex KS 60 - a really nice saw. Peter
Hi peter, I love your demo of the saw. I was looking but failed to locate your video on the compound sym 70 E mitre saw and wondered which saw you liked best and why? Cheers, great videos as always
Hi Daniel, I do not know what saw you mean. Peter
Peter, I'm having a problem that seems to have happened to many who have commented on youtube. It's that the Kapex's dust collection is TERRIBLE!. I followed your suggestion to put zero clearance inserts on the base and the fence. The one on the base doesn't seem to cause a problem, but I wondered if the one on the fence was blocking the path that the dust should take to the rubber dust hood at the back/bottom of the saw blade. I removed the insert from the fence, and split the halves of the fence apart so that it didn't interfere with the rubber dust hood - it's a pain anyway when the hood gets stuck on the fence as you pull the saw back. Then I notice in your video and others that your rubber hood goes almost all the way down to the base, but that there was about an inch of space between mine and the base. I dummied up a 1 inch extension to the hood out of duct tape and trimmed it so that it doesn't get caught on the fence as you pull it back. Now - well, it's not perfect, but it's much better than it was. When sitting on a low rolling chair and looking at the dust hood while making a cut, before, a lot of the dust was going under the hood. Now, with my extension, it's going right up into the saw. I noticed that you and some others who praised the dust collection have the 120 EB, whereas I have the 120 REB. I also noticed that the EB's dust port is different than the one on the REB. Do you have any insight into this problem, or perhaps can get info from Festool?
Hi Bob, You are right that the zero clearance pieces that we make and fit ourselves do interfere with the dust collection but the effect, for me, is quite minor. It would become more pronounced if one was cutting thicker stock. As far as the design of the dust boot goes I believe that they are the same. There may be technique issues... Starting a cut the instant the saw is triggered does not allow the extractor to reach full flow. Also, keeping the Kapex in the down position until the saw blade ceases to rotate will improve dust collection. The final thing is expectation...Yes, the Kapex is great at dust collection but that is compared to the majority of other saws on the market. Some dust will always get through. I came from a Dewalt radial arm saw to the Kapex and the difference was amazing. Peter
Hi Peter, great concise review of the kapex, could you tell us the dims and thickness you used for the sacrificial wood inserts if you recall them.
Douglas Mooney Hi Douglas, The insert that goes under the saw blade has the same length and thickness as the Festool inserts and just measure the width for a one piece solution. The sacrificial pieces on the sliding fences are 10 mm thick and just cover the metal fence elements with an extra 20 - 30 mm on the inside to give safe clearance for the saw blade when doing the sacrificial (zero) cut. Let me know if that is not clear enough. Cheers. Peter
Hi Peter, sorry I was referring to your Festool kaypac and the Festool compound mitre saw sym 70 E. Sorry for the confusion
Hi Daniel, No, I have never used or even seen one. Sorry. Peter
So I bought this machine and it’s really great. The only downside I am finding it’s it’s awkward to carry. I am a site carpenter so I’m always hauling this thing in and out of home. Any suggestions? Great video
Hi Ben, They have a mobile base and workstation which is used by a lot of the guys on site. It makes moving the machine much easier. Peter
Hello Peter, hope you're staying safe! Just a quick question on Kapex, I am renovating my summerhouse whilst we're in confinement. I need to cut some 9" x 3" beams. Would you do that in one pass on Kapex 120 or perhaps 2 or 3? It seemed to be struggling a little a couple of days ago so this morning I've made the cuts in 2/3 passes. Ive had it 3 years with modest home workshop use.
Hi George, There are a number of factors that can affect the efficiency of cutting - dull blade, wood not supported equally on both sides and too much force by the operator. If you detect a burning smell at any stage or scorching of the cut faces then check these out. Otherwise, take the cuts slowly and remember that if your wood is not perfectly flat that as you cut one side or both will try and move. Peter
Hi Peter, thank you for producing this very informativ video! I have one question on clamping. Is it not dangerous to clamp both ends of a work piece down? Thank you
Hi Henning, If you always allow the saw to stop before lifting then it should be fine. Better to keep everything in one place than have half of it flying around the workshop ! Cheers. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thank you Peter
In point of fact, the base is cast magnesium, not aluminum, which is why the saw is so light weight.
You are right and another reason why it is so strong. Many thanks. Peter
Hi Peter. I have recently purchased one of these and have a question regarding the dust extraction.
You mention in your video (one of reasons I purchased this) that the dust extraction is second to none.
I am not experiencing that. I have made sure the rubber boot is connected properly. But am still experiencing quite a bit of dust. Still not as much as other saws, sure.. Yet far more dust than I have seen in video review all over..
Any tips on making sure I am extracting correctly? I am using a festool midi vac, set up above the saw through a shortened green festool hose.
Thanks
+cynicaloptimist Hi Mr Optimist, It is best to ensure that the extractor is up to speed before starting the cut - this is only a second and a half. Also, I use a short section of 36 mm hose between the Kapex and the extractor - this makes a huge difference. 27 mm hose is not good enough. Peter
+New Brit Workshop (Peter)
Hi and thanks again.. Ok so I am going to get a larger diameter hose. Would it be worth going up to the 50mm hose.. Which can be purchased by the meter. Or is the 36mm ample in your opinion.. ?
Also, did you have to tweak the saw in a few places so it would cut 100% square. Mine seems about 2mm out over a 300mm cut. Would have though it would ship at 100% but it is tweak-able right?
Thanks
I have not tried the 50 mm hose but am perfectly satisfied with the short length of 36 mm.
Yes, you can adjust the saw very easily. Take a look at the US Supplemental Manual www.festoolusa.com/media/pdf/kapex-ks120-supplemental-manual.pdf
Peter
Hi Peter, do you think it is save to cut a mortise and tenon joint on the kapex saw?
Hi Henning, You can do the tenon if the size fits in with the Kapex trenching range but the mortice has to be done with either a router or a hammer and chisel. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thank you Peter!!
Hi , excellent video , what is the thickness of the inserts you made ?
+Arnold Smith Hi Arnold, They are the same as the sacrificial inserts that came with the saw - without taking the ones I made out I cannot measure them. They must be about 6 mm at a guess. Peter
By the way Peter, is that a slab of Burmese Teak behind your Kapex?
Swedish Holmberg Many thanks for the kind words in your previous post. That large piece behind the Kapex is my dust catcher which stops anything going down behind. It is a piece of Formica covered chipboard left over from an ancient project. It works. Cheers. Peter
it doesn't seem to be able to cut as much as the Bosch axial glide, or the Dewalt DWS780?
+red stihl It is the quality and accuracy of the cut which is more important - my chainsaw can cut more than my Kapex too (smile) Peter
Hi Peter. Do you know if it's possible to fit the festool LED light in the 120 to use the shadow line like the Kapex 60? Personally I don't trust the accuracy of the lasers although you can adjust them.
Hi Cathal, I do not think that a shadow line can be created with the KS120. Do have a go at adjusting the lasers if they are not right. Mine are as accurate as I can get them. I agree that they are not quite as good as the KS60 but I only use them for approximate work. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop I haven't actually bought the Kapex yet. I'm torn between the KS 6O and KS 120, I'm going to just be using it for 2nd fixing so I'm wondering would the 60 be sufficient for that work? Also, do you think the dust extraction is better on the 120?
For 2nd fix I would not hesitate to get the KS60 as it should have all the capacity that you need and be a little lighter and less expensive. It is a great saw. For a fixed workshop I would always go for the KS120 - mine is brilliant. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Thanks Peter, keep up the good work with the videos.
thinking off getting the dewalt 780 from axminster have u had good service from them
Hi Tom, I have been buying tools and other bits from Axminster for over 30 years. Their customer service is fantastic and they really do go the extra mile when it comes to after sales service. Their store staff are also excellent as they understand the woodworking community so well and certainly know their stuff when it comes to tools. Although you might pay £5 more for the Dewalt from Axminster it will be worth every penny as you will have their excellent support should you have any issues at all. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop thx peter
bought a kapex about three months ago. the motor just went up in smoke it simply died on me while finishing a house.
Nobody knows the details about what you were doing with the machine, whether it was set up correctly or what Festool then did as it happened within the warranty period. I expect you got your money back. Peter
This is not a rant against you! I'm a finish carpenter I did nothing to this machine that I hadn't done with my Bosch(s). The machine was set by me to spec!! My point is this: the most expensive miter saw ever put in the market burnt out in only three months of use. We use a lot of 3/4 MDF nothing else and nobody else ever used it besides me. No such luck they would not give my money back. I used a Bosch for almost 6 years I only have in to the kapex because I own a few Festool tools and for a better dust collection. Best regards!
You should insist on getting a repair or your money back. The Kapex is not cheap and should be able to withstand just about anything that can be thrown at it - where are you based and who supplied the machine? Peter
they are good but they DO need to make a larger 12 in version for site use.
This was one of the things that I looked at when I was considering the Kapex. Its cutting capacity (305 mm x 88 mm) is pretty close to what you get from a 12" machine. I do not do any roofing any more but even so would manage perfectly with the Kapex. Peter
Peter Parfitt in know what depth the kapex cuts peter that is why I said the need to make a 12in model, I have the older version of the dewalt 708 it has a 300 x 100 mm cut, the new version of the dewalt & the Makita is a joke, very poor quality thin casting, I would not give them house room, like most of the manufacturers they have scrimped on the quality but not passed that saving on to the customers as the new dewalt & Makita is still around £700 for a lesser quality machine, you were right to look around first peter, kind regards.
Well that only took a little over 2 minutes. Never mind the price, that trigger bullshit just took this saw out of consideration. Thanks for the video tho.
+MarginWalker I find the trigger second nature now and if someone comes into the workshop they are unlikely to be able to start the saw by accident. Peter
Jesus that music sucks
Hi Brian, I produce my own music as I do not want to risk any royalty/copyright issues. I know that I am a rubbish keyboard player. Cheers. Peter