Glad you like it. As we have chatted about, to avoid confusion with anyone watching this, the arm is only adjustable for ease of fitting. It shouldn't be used for adjusting camber/toe/whatever else as the geometry is set by the shock/wishbone and so there is no point forcing them into positions they don't want to be in by winding the arm in or out. The arm should be adjusted "just so", so that the whole system moves freely without binding up. Top job. Happy Spridgeting!!
I have a similar kit purchased from Peter May engineering. I did not realize I needed to cut away body work when I bought the kit and have decided not to bother installing it. I did not, however, send the kit back. I was not under the impression that it would make that big a deal, but based on this current video apparently it does. My Bugeye is pretty heavily modified in the area of suspension, engine and braking. Perhaps I’ll rethink it and give it a go.
Does this create the effect of a double wishbone suspension system? I owned a 1988 Honda CRX which had both short wheel base and double wishbone suspension, and its ability to peal around Ozark Mountain curves was just awesome and an unbelievable experience. It just absorbed the undulations. The early 1990 Mazda Miata's had double wishbone as well, and I owned one of those also - but it provided two much feedback, and after about a year I was dreaming of driving a 1990s Buick.
The standard midget setup already acts like double wishbone but with a single upper arm. What this does is strengthen the original setup and reduce the amount of lateral movement
i have to replace my front brake pipe...previous owner rand it UNDER the front crossmember with no attachment....scary. Getting it disconnect behind the rt front wheel looks to be a challenge thanks for the vid. very enlightening. I thought a one sided upper a arm was a bit odd...but then the car was designed in what, 1957 or so?
Nice kit and good job on your video. Am I correct this is essentially the suspension on an MGB except that they consolidate the twin arms into the Armstrong shock? (and of course then the upgrade for that is to swap in a coil-over shock LOL).
Thank you John. I'm not overly familiar with the MGB suspension but I do know it's very similar. I am looking at a coilover shock setup for the rear along with quite a change to the rear end. Watch this space!
Would a MGB suspension work with a Midget. Example. Like a coil over kit. Maybe with some small modification to it. ? How much different is it for the Midget
I'm not sure if it would fit as the b is a bigger car. I also know you can get drop spindles for b's but not for Midgets so pretty sure that they are different
I'm not sure Ed. I thought about an Avo damper kit but heard mixed reviews about wether it improved the ride or not. I'm quite happy with 30 weight oil in the Armstrong lever dampers and this kit for what I use the car for
My 71 Midget kicks pretty hard when I hit a bump, and feels very unsettled particularly when a bump happens during a turn. That to say, I don't think it's the K-series swap that would make your car feel unsettled on the road. I'll need to reach out to Malcolm myself now. Thanks for the video and particularly the driving section. I am a bit concerned about the fact you cut through a folded section of steel to make room for the second suspension arm. That fold would be giving significant strength to the metal, and removing it is something I would be very hesitant to do.
@@MarksWheels Yeah, I need to get under mine and have a look. Pardon my skepticism. As a design engineer, I know that everything in my designs has a purpose, and I have a hunch that was true for MG engineers too.
I have a question. Im upgrading my 1500 to a 5 speed. Found some rust on the floor of the trans tunnel. Towards the back of the diff. I already have to cut some of the floor tunnel out for the new trans. Can i just cut it out all the the way back to the diff. Would there be a lack of integrity or something ? Is it necessary to have the floor of the tunnel?
Hi Daz. The originals bent into place nicely. I do need to replace the brake hoses with longer ones though as on full lock they are stretching too much for my liking
Take a look in the description box of the video. I have put malcolms contact details there. I'm not sure whether he will post to the US but its worth a question.
Glad you like it. As we have chatted about, to avoid confusion with anyone watching this, the arm is only adjustable for ease of fitting. It shouldn't be used for adjusting camber/toe/whatever else as the geometry is set by the shock/wishbone and so there is no point forcing them into positions they don't want to be in by winding the arm in or out. The arm should be adjusted "just so", so that the whole system moves freely without binding up. Top job. Happy Spridgeting!!
Many thanks for your help Malcolm.
Interesting, I'm looking at the frontline damper kit, but triangulation would be good too
Looks a great mod.
I recommend braided hoses all round. I had them on my B and they certainly made a difference to the feel.
Thanks for the recommendation and thanks for watching
Great video
I installed the kit, which adds tube shocks.
No cutting
My car has an sbc 383ci with 425hp
Thanks. Your car sounds like it could be fun!
I have a similar kit purchased from Peter May engineering. I did not realize I needed to cut away body work when I bought the kit and have decided not to bother installing it. I did not, however, send the kit back. I was not under the impression that it would make that big a deal, but based on this current video apparently it does. My Bugeye is pretty heavily modified in the area of suspension, engine and braking. Perhaps I’ll rethink it and give it a go.
I would definitely recommend it. Totally transformed the handling
i’ll buy it if you don’t want it
Does this create the effect of a double wishbone suspension system? I owned a 1988 Honda CRX which had both short wheel base and double wishbone suspension, and its ability to peal around Ozark Mountain curves was just awesome and an unbelievable experience. It just absorbed the undulations. The early 1990 Mazda Miata's had double wishbone as well, and I owned one of those also - but it provided two much feedback, and after about a year I was dreaming of driving a 1990s Buick.
The standard midget setup already acts like double wishbone but with a single upper arm. What this does is strengthen the original setup and reduce the amount of lateral movement
Wow, that looks like a good arrangement. It should now handle similar to a Lotus Elan as the suspension is now very similar.
It does handle so much better now. Thanks for watching!
Just about to re-assemble my 68 Midget after an engine rebore. I'm very tempted to put these on while the vehicle is 'empty'...
It does make a huge difference. Well worth it
i have to replace my front brake pipe...previous owner rand it UNDER the front crossmember with no attachment....scary. Getting it disconnect behind the rt front wheel looks to be a challenge
thanks for the vid. very enlightening. I thought a one sided upper a arm was a bit odd...but then the car was designed in what, 1957 or so?
Oh that sounds pretty bad! Thank for watching
Hi Mark Did you ise longer bolts for refitting tje levee arm dampers? Cheers Les
Hi Lee. The kit comes with all the bolts
Nice kit and good job on your video. Am I correct this is essentially the suspension on an MGB except that they consolidate the twin arms into the Armstrong shock? (and of course then the upgrade for that is to swap in a coil-over shock LOL).
Thank you John. I'm not overly familiar with the MGB suspension but I do know it's very similar. I am looking at a coilover shock setup for the rear along with quite a change to the rear end. Watch this space!
Would a MGB suspension work with a Midget. Example. Like a coil over kit. Maybe with some small modification to it. ? How much different is it for the Midget
I'm not sure if it would fit as the b is a bigger car. I also know you can get drop spindles for b's but not for Midgets so pretty sure that they are different
Nice little mod, well worth doing for both handling and safety (when not ripping brake lines) lol
Haha 😄 thanks for watching
How does this kit compare with the frontline avo damper kit ?
Wonder if the triangulation link could be used with that too?
I'm not sure Ed. I thought about an Avo damper kit but heard mixed reviews about wether it improved the ride or not. I'm quite happy with 30 weight oil in the Armstrong lever dampers and this kit for what I use the car for
@@MarksWheels yeah I guess it depends on what car is being used for. I'm building a track car as always but they are fun on the road too
My 71 Midget kicks pretty hard when I hit a bump, and feels very unsettled particularly when a bump happens during a turn. That to say, I don't think it's the K-series swap that would make your car feel unsettled on the road. I'll need to reach out to Malcolm myself now. Thanks for the video and particularly the driving section.
I am a bit concerned about the fact you cut through a folded section of steel to make room for the second suspension arm. That fold would be giving significant strength to the metal, and removing it is something I would be very hesitant to do.
The metal just out is not structural. The main structure and strength will be in the box section below
@@MarksWheels Yeah, I need to get under mine and have a look. Pardon my skepticism. As a design engineer, I know that everything in my designs has a purpose, and I have a hunch that was true for MG engineers too.
Excellent. Great advice. Can you recommend a break upgrade?
It is something i really need to do myself, hopefully in the coming months. I will of course, video it and post it here
@@MarksWheels excellent.
I have a question. Im upgrading my 1500 to a 5 speed. Found some rust on the floor of the trans tunnel. Towards the back of the diff. I already have to cut some of the floor tunnel out for the new trans. Can i just cut it out all the the way back to the diff. Would there be a lack of integrity or something ? Is it necessary to have the floor of the tunnel?
The underneath of the car.
I would expect the transmission tunnel does contribute a bit to the structural rigidity of the car and wouldn't want to cut the floor of it out.
Hi. Can you tell who makes this kit. Thanks
Hi boxy. I got it from Malcolm at chevalierclassics@gmail.com
Where do you get thicker damper oil iv looked but can't see anything apart from the stuff moss sell
To be honest, the oil i used was 30W oil for my friends 72 Beetle
Hi Mark Are these kits still available? Cheers
I believe so. Best to send malcolm a message an ask.
Did you have to fabricate new solid brake lines or did the originals ‘bend/flex’ to the new holes you drilled?
Hi Daz. The originals bent into place nicely. I do need to replace the brake hoses with longer ones though as on full lock they are stretching too much for my liking
@@MarksWheels Looking forward to doing this job. Thanks Mark
Just completed this job on my 1974 midget. What a transformation. Pin sharp handling at the front end on potholed country lanes. Perfect!😊
Hello, is there a link to the supplier of this kit, looks ideal
Hi Tony. I got it from Malcolm at chevalierclassics@gmail.com
@@MarksWheels Cheers will get in touch with him.
Interested, just gathering parts to do a k series midget
Where can I get the kit? Who sells it in the US?
Take a look in the description box of the video. I have put malcolms contact details there. I'm not sure whether he will post to the US but its worth a question.
Has this improved the lack of self-centering that you have or have you found a solution previously that I missed?
It's still not quite as I'd like but it's has helped I think
Something else I need......... More expense.
Lol. Thanks for watching
👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks for warching
Christ! Use a tripod. Flashing the camera about I feel sea sick. We also don't need to see you every few seconds, just the parts and installation.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching Dave