Great video, thanks for the detailed info. 2 notations I'd say as a guy who builds motors and a certified motorcycle tech. 1st, as with any flat tappet cam motor, using a high zinc oil is crucial. Most m/c oils don't have that present. 2nd, m/c oils are formulated for a common bath system for the wet clutch. Whereas said clutch is a separate gear case, m/c oil isn't required. I recommend Castrol classic 20w50.
I've just bought a 1971 Triumph 650 T120 Tr6, I'm a bit scared of the process of bringing this old girl back to her finest but it must be done to preserve the past, great videos mate.👍👌🇬🇧
Thank you for this info. I am staring down a refurbish of my fathers Trophy (69) and this demystifies so much of the stuff I find written about the process. Nice vid.
Jesus h christ , i do loooove that bike of yours my old mate 👍👍👍. She's a beauty,.....when are you doing more video's of the old girl ?. Take care on the road mate and stay safe. Peace out ✌
I never thought about messing with yhe Oil Pressure Relief Valve? You could change the primary chain case oil too. The older bike like yours: I believe the crankshaft has a seal keeping the primary case oil separate from the engine oil. My 1973 shares primary oil with engine oil. Interesting my bike has two capacities for the Primary Case which confused me. One capacity is for when the primary cover has been removed. The other capacity is when only the primary chain case drain plug has been removed. This is because more oil drains out when cover is removed due to cavities in the cover etc. The reason for the two capacities is not really spelled out in the books. I was using Castrol 20-50 motorcycle oil but it does not seem to be available any more. This year i have been using Valvoline 20-50 motorcycle oil in blue bottle that is not synthetic. I have 63,500 miles on bike & not sure if it would be a good idea to switch to synthetic oil?
My 1970 Daytona 500 is configured differently. I can't remove ANY of the drain plugs, especially that huge one at the top of the crankcase. Not sure where the bottom drain plug is located. Nobody in my area will touch a Triumph. Super screwed.
I did everything in your video for my 69/70 650 Bonneville. I have an after market oil tank it only holds 2 quarts. The oil seems to not be draining into the crack case. I cleaned all filters and drained the tanks but the oil and case and the new oil is not draining., Does the oil pump suck the oil from the tank to the crack case when it's running? Then do I add the 3rd quart of oil? Confused. Thanks
Take the bleeder screw all the way out and blow air through the inlet side. You can use an air chuck lightly or use a automotive coolant hose that will fit in the inlet hole. Tape it off so no air passes through the top. Only need a 12” piece to do this
Hi, I bought a 1969 Triumph T120r that was put in a hardtail frame. It was supposedly sitting for 2-3 years. I was able to clean the carb and get it running properly. Now my issue is when I pull in the clutch lever in it makes a clicking noise. Also, the clutch will not disengage. When shifted into gear and I pull the clutch lever the bike does not move freely. Do you happen to know what is going on and how to fix it? I assume the clutch cable is adjusted too tightly and clutch plates maybe seized. Thanks for your help and love the videos on your triumph and especially the xs650 build series!
@@shedbillycustoms823 thank you for your reply! I will need to adjust the clutch then. Of course I went back to the bike put it in 4th gear rocked it back and forth with the clutch held in and it broke free.
With my T140V, I always start up and ride straight off (after blipping the throttle a couple of times with the clutch pulled in to free it off). I've found that's the best way to warm it up. Neighbours are happier too because the noise goes away sooner. I never use the choke on the Amal mk 1s because it's not necessary once you've used the ticklers, in fact I've taken the mechanism out and blanked off the holes. Good advice with the oil change walk through. One thing I found with mine: the first time I changed the oil, I didn't have a new copper washer big enough to fit the crankcase drain plug, so I tried an o-ring instead, which seats against the chamfered area at the start of the thread, and it worked perfectly, so I've used them ever since, for about 50 oil changes over 28 years.
Great video, thanks for the detailed info. 2 notations I'd say as a guy who builds motors and a certified motorcycle tech. 1st, as with any flat tappet cam motor, using a high zinc oil is crucial. Most m/c oils don't have that present. 2nd, m/c oils are formulated for a common bath system for the wet clutch. Whereas said clutch is a separate gear case, m/c oil isn't required. I recommend Castrol classic 20w50.
Thanks Mich, your input is definitely appreciated. I’m always trying to learn more
I've just bought a 1971 Triumph 650 T120 Tr6, I'm a bit scared of the process of bringing this old girl back to her finest but it must be done to preserve the past, great videos mate.👍👌🇬🇧
I was having trouble with my triumph and thanks to this video I now know what I am doing thank you!
That’s awesome, thank you
I hope this vid gets more likes and views because of the way he presented and taught us... Liked and subscribed.
Thank you for this info. I am staring down a refurbish of my fathers Trophy (69) and this demystifies so much of the stuff I find written about the process. Nice vid.
Thanks bud
I'm doing my uncles 67 tiger 500 its been garaged all its life sweet bikes
Excellent video. No harm in reminding you of the key steps. (1969 Triumph 650 TR6P)
Very good video. Gave the essential info clearly.
Thanks David
Very helpful video. One slight adjustment. My 71 oil in frame takes 4 pints (2quarts…not 3 quarts). Also what’s listed in the shop manual.
Great detailed video. Thanks!
Why is there no film of you putting in the oil?
1970 triumphs share their oil with the primary on the bike, theyre different than the 1969 and down
Nice Triumph. :-)
Thank you
Jesus h christ , i do loooove that bike of yours my old mate 👍👍👍.
She's a beauty,.....when are you doing more video's of the old girl ?.
Take care on the road mate and stay safe.
Peace out ✌
Very soon. Actually looking to build a new triumph ground up
A great vid. Thank you.
Dude ur the bomb 💣
I heard that you should not use synthetic oils on these old triumphs because you could spend the main bearing and destroy it.
Just wanted to add that the OIF models require removal of the crankcase bolt/filter in addition to the drain and filter on the frame.
Thanks and good point to be made
I never thought about messing with yhe Oil Pressure Relief Valve?
You could change the primary chain case oil too.
The older bike like yours:
I believe the crankshaft has a seal keeping the primary case oil separate from the engine oil.
My 1973 shares primary oil with engine oil.
Interesting my bike has two capacities for the Primary Case which confused me. One capacity is for when the primary cover has been removed.
The other capacity is when only the primary chain case drain plug has been removed.
This is because more oil drains out when cover is removed due to cavities in the cover etc.
The reason for the two capacities is not really spelled out in the books.
I was using Castrol 20-50 motorcycle oil but it does not seem to be available any more.
This year i have been using Valvoline 20-50 motorcycle oil in blue bottle that is not synthetic.
I have 63,500 miles on bike & not sure if it would be a good idea to switch to synthetic oil?
My 1970 Daytona 500 is configured differently. I can't remove ANY of the drain plugs, especially that huge one at the top of the crankcase. Not sure where the bottom drain plug is located. Nobody in my area will touch a Triumph. Super screwed.
This guy!! 😂. I am pooping!😂
I'm changing all fluids in my 67 tiger 500
Good luck, it’s not hard but definitely worth doing each year
I have a 70 tr6r and I changed the primary gasket but don’t know what type of oil I should use is a 650
I did everything in your video for my 69/70 650 Bonneville. I have an after market oil tank it only holds 2 quarts. The oil seems to not be draining into the crack case. I cleaned all filters and drained the tanks but the oil and case and the new oil is not draining., Does the oil pump suck the oil from the tank to the crack case when it's running? Then do I add the 3rd quart of oil? Confused. Thanks
20-50 mineral oil is better for older bikes.
You’re not the only one giving me that advice. I’m definitely going to keep that in mind on my next build
Just bought a 70 t100c trophy basket case
Nice, always loved those
When refilling the oil, what is the process? Just fill up the oil tank, and it will gravity feed to the motor? Thanks in advance!
Love your videos, but I can't find one that shows steps on changing oil on the primary (chain case)
Take the bleeder screw all the way out and blow air through the inlet side. You can use an air chuck lightly or use a automotive coolant hose that will fit in the inlet hole. Tape it off so no air passes through the top. Only need a 12” piece to do this
Im need to change oil on a 1975 Tryumph Trident do you have a video? Cant locate filter
Where can we order the brass gaskets Man? Tnx
Hi, I bought a 1969 Triumph T120r that was put in a hardtail frame. It was supposedly sitting for 2-3 years. I was able to clean the carb and get it running properly. Now my issue is when I pull in the clutch lever in it makes a clicking noise. Also, the clutch will not disengage. When shifted into gear and I pull the clutch lever the bike does not move freely. Do you happen to know what is going on and how to fix it? I assume the clutch cable is adjusted too tightly and clutch plates maybe seized. Thanks for your help and love the videos on your triumph and especially the xs650 build series!
Your definitely to tight. However will it release if you move the bike back and forth several times?
@@shedbillycustoms823 thank you for your reply! I will need to adjust the clutch then. Of course I went back to the bike put it in 4th gear rocked it back and forth with the clutch held in and it broke free.
Do you have a 1971 t120 primary drive oil change video?
I should make one
ALLWAYS let it warm up some, but no long idles.
Your right about that
With my T140V, I always start up and ride straight off (after blipping the throttle a couple of times with the clutch pulled in to free it off). I've found that's the best way to warm it up. Neighbours are happier too because the noise goes away sooner. I never use the choke on the Amal mk 1s because it's not necessary once you've used the ticklers, in fact I've taken the mechanism out and blanked off the holes.
Good advice with the oil change walk through. One thing I found with mine: the first time I changed the oil, I didn't have a new copper washer big enough to fit the crankcase drain plug, so I tried an o-ring instead, which seats against the chamfered area at the start of the thread, and it worked perfectly, so I've used them ever since, for about 50 oil changes over 28 years.
what size is the big bolt on the bottom ??????
Pretty sure it’s in the video but I’ll double check for you
@@shedbillycustoms823 Thank you
Clean it up.