How To Fit A Bigger Cassette & Ride Uphill With Ease! | Maintenance Monday
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- Опубликовано: 9 июл 2024
- We’ve all been there, riding up a tough climb and you go to switch gears but realise you’re already in the biggest sprocket! If only you had one more, you’d be flying up that hill! Well, as it turns out, fitting a bigger cassette is not that difficult and could have you riding uphill with ease! Ollie will take you through all the steps in this maintenance guide.
0:00 Intro
0:18 What Tools Do I Need?
1:02 How Big A Cassette Can I Use?
2:28 Remove Your Old Cassette
3:33 Fit Your New Cassette
5:12 Remove Your Old Chain
6:07 Check Your Rear Derailleur
7:06 Fit & Size Your New Chain
9:29 Final Checks
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Did you find this useful? What other maintenance videos would you like to see us do?
@GCN Tech can you show us how to adjust Di2 to use non standard gearing (eg 52-34 rings) as Shimano E-Tube Pwoject doesn't allow it. TIA
How to replace tubeless tire properly
i mean it's common knowledge, right? right?!?
@@janeh4908 ha, i knew there was a catch with happy-go-lucky adoption of more electrnics in bicycle drive 😅 i mean if automotive industry is any indicator 🤷
@@zoladkow not to mention the problems a flat battery can cause! 😅
Great video, Ollie. A great life hack for older riders too. In my 30s , I started with the standard 12-26 and 42/52 chain rings. As I progressed through life, that all slowly changed. Now, at age 75 one bike has 11-36 and GRX 46/30 chain rings. Must other bikes are setup for mild hills at 11-34 and 50/34 . When I hit 80 there will be a 11-40 in the rear. Cheers.
Talking about 32,33 and 36 tooth cassette, while here's me on my MTB with a 52tooth cassette and still struggling!! 😂😂
often found climbing 16-18% inclines and being a fat old git. I have put 11-36 on my Ultegra long cage and have even tackled a 25% with no problems. 😂 recommended maximums are not always the actual maximums.
Super useful for my Ridley, my backup bike. It’s a 53-39 chainring to an 11-28 cassette and climbs like a lead brick
I just bought a 11-34 cassette for my road bike. Perfect timing, GCN.
Me too.😃
I’ve just got the new 12 speed ultegra, always rode the 11-32 with the old 11 speed and didn’t find the spacings too bad, but now have that bail out gear with the 34. With the 11 speed it makes the ratio spacing maybe a little bigger than ideal to get that perfect gear sometimes. But with the 12 speed it’s great. I don’t understand why people would want to leave home with anything less than a 32 on the back on a semi unless you live in a flat area I suppose
😏 just did this a few months ago in preparation for summer riding in the NC mountains. Was using a 32 that came with the bike and went to 34. There are some regular routes where I’d have to stop and rest so as not to exceed my MHR. Similar to another poster I am 72 and plan to keep at it. Go out in stride not on your hide. 😳
"Make sure you use a torque wrench" he said... while very blatantly not being arsed to get the torque wrench...
My kind of maintenance vid!
big bolts and nuts that are not into carbon are measured in uga ugas
I happily since years using a ultegra 6800 with a 36 cassette (long cage) on a specialized roubaix SL4 with a long derailleur hanger. In addition I am using a zephyr 33t front chainwheel (110BCD) combined with a 50T large ring. This gets me up the steepest hills I can ride at my age of 68. Shimano specs are usually very conservative an can be extended by quite some margin without any appreciable loss in performance.
I spotted Ollie riding up the Wellsway on Saturday afternoon. Looking strong 💪
I'm running Ultegra r8000 with a long cage rear mech and wolf tooth road link with 52 36 chainset and 11 46 xt mtb cassette. Works fine. Gear range 126 to 21 gear inches.
Damn, does this setup work for real? Shifting is fine? Can you go big ring to big ring in with this setup?
@Jeff Mayfield shifting is fine but I do avoid big ring to big ring. Don’t need it. It will go there but not worth testing.
Thanks for the chain sizing tips ! Worked well!
I recently upgraded to a 36T RD from Sram, without the chain on I just couldn’t get it set up and the RD was touching my spokes.
When I set the limit the RD wouldn’t change gear anymore either way. I put the chain on and it fixed the problem and I was able to index the gears correctly, set the limit screws and b screw and I’m now no longer caring about the steep gradients round my area 😂
Ollie! Thank you for the video and nice explanation 👌👌👌
Good video.
Really good video, thanks 🐾🐾
It’s like you read my mind! I’m going to change cassette for an upcoming steeper race, I currenlty have 53/39-11/25 and going to switch to a 11/30 for better climbing. The tip of NOT catching the largest gear woth my derailleur probably saved me a lot of time and headaches. Thanks!!
I have 25 and it's the worst thing ever. Hate that race and road bikes have no uphill perception.
Nice, Ollie! Thanks!
An Ultegra 6800 séries long cage, fitted with a Wolf tooth road link allows me to fit an XT 11-40 cassette - coupled to 50-34 chainring. Best upgrade for me.
Where on earth do you need 34-40 on a road bike?
@@911norman I was wondering the same, is he climbing mount everest ? Kudos for the ingenuity though
@@911norman i am perhaps not as fit as you are ? Just a thought !
Thank you for another instructional video. I learn something new every time I tune in. I do need to say however that I have two bikes with Campagnola parts and two with Shimano parts and I find you fail to mention, on many occasions Campagnola, while being focused on Shimano and SRAM.
Campagnolo!
Nice video, I think this is for those who want to cycle easier and have the parts/tools
Thanks for this video. Convinced me to always use the local bike shop.
Hi Ollie, In the hack and not a bodge competition you may want to use the KMC chain checker tool? It hooks up both ends of the chain releasing the tension of the rear derailleur. You can easily apply the missing link now without using the quick link plyers.
I'm riding a Scrapper Spego 120 with a Sora 3000 set for less than €500.- 50-39-30 front, 13-25 rear. 59 year old.
@6:25 or so aren’t the H and L’s the other way round? The H limit screw adjusts the mech’s smallest sprocket stop point surely? And vice versa of course.
I got a 2012 Focus Izalco with a triple chainring (53-42-30). IMHO the best choice for eldery people like me. The cassette is an ultegra 30-11. A 1:1 gear ratio is mandatory, could even be shorter. The next upgrade will probably be a 32-11 or even a 34-11 cassette. I know it's not fashionable, but 30 speeds are much more pleasant than 12, to keep a good steady pace.
What groupset are you using?
@@notpablo8369 A shimano ultegra 3x10 groupset, current in 2012, but every parts are still available.
In the SRAM documentation it says when there is no chain on, the rear derailleur is likely to touch the spokes, this is normal. You do not adjust it based on whether it is touching the spokes or not. You look at the limit screw and adjust so it just touches the body of the derailleur.
In terms of getting the cogs the right way round, make sure all of the etched writing points in the same direction (outwards) or expect a noisy drive-train that won’t stay in gear - I learned this the hard way 😂
On Shimano cassettes, the number of teeth on each cog is etched into one side so that side faces out so it can be read
This is why I paired Rival Etap AXS with a GX AXS Derailleur (10T-52T) setup for my gravel bike. Looking at the AXS app, it's easy to see if your chainring/cassettes are right for the majority of your riding. Are you distributed evenly throughout the cassette, or do you tend to camp out at one end or the other?
I did a climb with a 35% incline according to the sign (no joke!). 36 up front, 28 at the back. That was the only time I wished I had a larger cassette🥵.
That would be around the steepest hill in the US!
I have found that on my bike with an SRAM clutch derailer, I can swap between 11-32 to 11-42 cassettes without having to resize the chain (as long as the chain is sized for the 11-42) and the shifting is still fine. The clutch takes up any chain slack.
Life hack for people with "old" bikes 2016 bikes or older - when fitting a new cassette just do a 3 tooth jump, for instance i had a 12-25 on my old bike, i decided to put on a 12-28, work a treat, no adjusment anywhere needed same chain and chain rings and its a massive difference too :)
@@Bu-22 yeah trust me it will be fine! One thing do use a chain checker tool or get one from amazon for like a quid, if the chain is worn to 1% replace the chain but keep it the same length as previous. Mine has 53 links (including quick link) when i upgraded, if the chain is too worn out you gonna get mad skipping. Provided chain isnt stretched beyond replacement you should be fine. I measure mine with a quick link included, if you making a jump from a 28 to 32 or 34 definetely get a new chain and re measure it including the new cassette, 2 or 3 teeth is no issues. Just set and forget :)
A great video, thanks Olli! Especially the thing that different derailleur cage lengths can take up different cassettes. But there is one thing I still don't understand and I had that problem as well with many tech clinics: Couldn't you just have a chain, that fits the derailleur cage in length? The little sprocket is always the same size so the chain is never to long when you switch to a smaller cassette. Wouldn't it be way easier to use the method for the chain length where you take little ring and little sprocket and then swap cassettes as needed? And I don't think the smally-small-method is that difficult.
Pah I built a 105 5700 using a sgs cage and p tension spring from lx t670 trekking mech to allow me to use up to a 11-40t. I'm currently using a 11-36 with barely any tension in the b spring. It is big enough that with the 34-50 I've had to use some chain from a 2nd hahaa
I've got a 1x GRX drivetrain (38 x 10/42), should I be measuring the chain length differently than shown?
Can you get torque wrenches that fit spanner flats or is it necessary to buy a crow's-foot adapter (ie square drive to spanner)? All the torque wrenches I've ever seen are square drive, ie to be used with sockets...
It's funny when you done that hill climb I thought this video was coming haha
Is there a case where you wouldn't replace a chain when switching cassette ? I.e. if you went down a small step from 11-34 to 11-32, are these steps still necessary?
Best to learn what gear inches first!
Old fashioned but so very recommended.
My 1x is a 44t x 11-42 cassette.
Top gear is 108 inch.
Climbing gear is 28..
650b × 47mm.
why?
why?
Or just use ratios , much easier to use and easily shows the difference.
Most people only use the largest cog with the smallest chainring. In this combination there is often still enough chain with even with the short cage and using the same chain. If you never cross chain can you just ride this way without fear of damaging anything?
I’d use a quick release skewer to hold the cassette lock ring loosely in place when removing or installing the lock ring.
I have an Ultegra long cage with Di2 and I run a shram 36t with zero issues. I like the 36t much better than the Shimano 34.
Will i need a new derailier or hub to go from 7spd to 10spd
what is the best roadbike hub to use with disc brake? New subscriber here from the Philippines.
I wanted to do this but I’m limited by the length of the rear derailleur arm and with a Di2 set up I think I’m into a world of expense to do this. Instead I’ve got new chain rings on their way, 34/50 instead of 36/52 which the bike was supplied with. Always good to watch these maintenance videos regardless
yep.. you can change chainrings but you will lose top end.
@@petesmitt I reckon most people have more than enough with 50-11
@@discbrakefan Indeed with a 700c wheel 50-11 is roughly (depending on tire size) 1 to 1 speed in kph vs cadance, eg if you can push 50-11 at 80rpm you'll be doing just under 80Kph.
@@ianphil397 don't believe it works like that. 80rpm at 50-11 is still below 50 KMPH
@@-P-Z- Ah you're right. That's awkward, i had my maths wrong. Time to update my spreadsheet!
If you are taking off an Ultegra or 105 11 speed like I was the other day when you slide it off the free hub thread a tie wrap through it to keep all the cogs and spacers together in the same order for when you put back on. Shimano 11 speed breaks into lots of parts with the cogs and spacers when slid off without.
When you buy a new Shamino cassette, it comes mounted on a plastic notched cylinder. That cylinder is not just packaging, it is also a guide tool for sliding the entire cassette stack on and off your bikes hub without it separating into individual cogs.
Yeah I saw that on RUclips when I looked at cassette removal and installation. I didn’t have the small plastic tube though that’s with the new ones as I was taking off a used one and putting it on another wheel.
I discovered that the hard way but it's super obvious how it goes back together and the spline pattern on the freehub means you can only put the sprockets on in the right orientation.
Great video ending on a slight note of disappointment with Ollie not fitting a KMC gold chain.....
XD
Where can you buy a new cassette from to be able to do this??!! Shimano out of stock here in US except for a few price gouging websites.
Ultegra 8000 long cage will do a 40t cassette with the B screw wound in and I've used a SRAM red Etap short cage with a roadlink which will give you the use of a 40t cassette, big, big isn't usable though with that set up.
Living in the Adirondack Mountains, I've found it useful to use a long cage SRAM Force rear derailleur and a 10-50 SRAM AXS MTB cassette to provide that greater range a guy like me in his late 50's tends to need. This arrangement works on my Roadie, Gravel Bike and Recumbent Trike. Such a commonality of parts between cycles has the added benefit of making a ready reserve of parts if something fails!
Living in the Pittsburgh area where if you aren't going up a hill you are going down one, I have been thinking of just getting a gravel bike with "skinny" tires
I’ve been wanting to swap my 11-28 to a 11-34 for some time now. Maybe this is the year. Would be nice to have that one-one for my weak legs.
50/34 11-28 all day. Great combo of cadence, climbing, and tight cassette.
if you go down in gearing eg. 11-30 to 11-28, do you need a shorter chain or can you get away with the existing one?
No need to swap if your biggest sprocket gets smaller, the maximum amount of chain the mech has to "wrap up" in the combination of smallest chainring and smallest sprocket hasn't changed. Depending how long you've been running that chain and cassette combo together though, you may want to put a new chain with a new cassette to minimise wear.
Running 105 36/34 and need it over Shropshire and not been that fit and plenty of climbs.
I use 11t - 40T mtb cassette on my bike
Changing chain is one thing I stay away touching since they ditched manual shifting. Cycling works simple until they add the key word ‘E’ in front with a rotor attached outward. Wait until app updates…
Should have watched this video before ordering an 11-34 cassette 😮
Can anyone tell me if an 11-34 cassette is compatible with 105 DR-R7000 rear dreaileur
About chain sizing: the employed method does not take into account the length of the rear derailleur arm. Whether it is long cage or a short cage one should have an impact on optimal chain length, shouldn't it?
Hey Ollie! Great video!
Why no mention of Campy?
They never do. Must bring them out in a rash to mention the ‘C’ word.
Of course the hacky way to do this is to reuse the same chain with some extra chain and 2 quick-links, bonus points if the extra bit of chain is a different finish.
Aint no mountain high enough for our Ollie.
(source of flame) Ollie, did you wash and clean the factory grease on your new chain?
I've done this recently, and according to Shimano my largest rear cog is a few teeth too large to be compatible without a long RD arm. Seems to work fine however.
it'll work, but it's not recommended. I have no idea why it isn't though ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I agree. I am running a 40.
To get around the different chain lengths I add on a small section of extra chain, (kept back from when chain was "trimmed" to fit the usual smaller cassette) using an additional quick link.
Does mean the chain has 2 quick links when the big sprockets are out back... removes the faff and investment of having separate chains for each cassette size though.
I have a 1x drivechain 38T chainring and 11-42T cassette and the hills are killing me. I don't need the high gear so is there such as thing as a 13-46T cassette?
But what about going to 36 or 34 chainring??? (38/13 is equivalent to 32/11 btw, but 32/42 must be too much now)
About the cassetes, there are 11-46 XT or SLX where you can omit the 11t and put 14t with spacer instead.
@@feedbackzaloop That's another option but it's more expensive because the cranks and chainring are a single piece (Decathlon gravel bike) fitted to a square-taper bottom bracket.
@@xtrailz in that case you might consider a crank upgrade anyway. And let me guess, the cassette is 10 or even 9 speed? Then the only reasonable option is a Sunrace 11-46, which costs more than a second-hand crankset with new chainring
@@feedbackzaloop Yes, it's a 10 speed but it may as well be 9 speed as I never use the high gear. For about £60, there is also the Shimano Deore CS-M4100 11-46 . I'm running the 42T version of this at the moment.
@@xtrailz wow, 60£ is quite a premium compared to 50€ that we have on this side of the Channel. But it's a solid cassette anyway!
Since I live in the second flattest State in the US, I just switched from a 12-23 to a 12-25 when I got real old.....I can remember when the old 7400 Dura Ace has a max gear of 26. Then the 7700 has a max of 27, and the 7800 had a max of 28. Now the are building Dura Ace that can take a 34.....When will it end.
10-51 MTB cassette on road bike haha
@@mrvwbug4423 If they need a 51 in back, they should get an E-Bike.
You can run a 32 cassette with any 11spd Di2 rear derailleur.
The latest series 11spd R8000 and RD9100 will handle a 36 tooth.
How do I know? Ive installed them hundreds of times.
If you want to run a 40 cassette then yes you will need a GS type 11spd R8000 or R7000.
I'm running a 14-40 (a mix of a XT 11-40 and a Ultegra 14-28) on a RD R7000. Shifting is fine for me (sometimes a bit odd where the Ultegra and XT cogs meet). Best "downgrade" for the super steep roads of Taiwan.
You don't spin those roads downhill at all, aren't you? And even on flats the cadence must be wild, presuming you use 50/34 up front...
Also, I'm very interested if you use only the biggest spider with 31-35-40 or use mostly the XT with only the smallest cogs from Ultegra. Me personally would build it in a manner of 14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27-31-35-40 or even 13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27-31-35-40 (but that requres 13t from another cassette to have splines for a lockring)
@@feedbackzaloop 46-30 XD. I feel comfortable with a cadence around 90-100, so no problems in the flat. Nobody is going to give me a trophy or money to downhill faster in open roads, and most descents here are pretty winding anyway.
My cassette is as follows: 14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27-31-35-40T
I would not mind to have a 13, but I didn't find an easy way to do it (maybe using a Miche cog).
Gears are a personal and a terrain thing. There are plenty of roads with >20% here. Most people either try to avoid them (not always easy) or grind them. I prefer to preserve my knees while still exploring all the quiet secondary roads.
@@Membrillo81 I have seen plenty of 10-speed cassettes from shimano and sunrace, which had two smallest cogs serrated. Since it would sit on the edge of the cassette you might get away with small difference in spacing
Terrain dictates the range of the transmission, because what goes up must come down and there are ways to and from as well, but how you prioritize these sections is definetely a personal thing. With all that said, I still can't understand how would you avoid the fun of accelerating out of the corner and catching up with a motorcycle up front. Just 2-3 pedal strokes, but so much difference (maybe for some time you might try 11-14-15-17... setup, but that depends on how much you need 16)
@@feedbackzaloop Massively high gears are a must for pros, but I have a harder time understanding why recreational cyclists in open roads need almost the same massive gears. That's why I prefer to lose some range in the high gears, where the worst it can happen to me is to have to rest more in the descents.
Regarding the example of the motorcycle. I live in Taiwan, where there are more scooters than people. The sound of motorcycles is one of the sounds I hate the most XD. So I don't want to ride with them.
I had the 11-34 before. The jumps between 11-13-15 were stupidly high and uncomfortable. 13-14-15-17 would be nice, but being honest, I don't really miss the 13 that much, while the 16 helps me more in the flats.
@@Membrillo81 I'd consider a massively high gears for pros as a combination of 54/39 paired to an 11-28 cassette. So no, 50/34 by 11-34 is not big. And more so, pros have a higher cadence as well, so should they "grind" they would need even bigger chainrings.
As for myself, my do-it-all bike is equipped with slx 11-46 and 46 up front and I'm looking for a way to fit 50 in the place of a smaller ring for an optimal chainline and to avoid 13-15 gap, reserving 11 and 13 for cruising in low cadence. But 15-17-19-21 combo is just perfect, I wish more cassettes were using that. Instead it is either 15-18 or 15-16-17 - either too big or too small of a difference.
However I agree that it is wrong how consumer products are a copy-paste of professional equipment with little to none alterations. The use cases differ way more than that.
It would probably have been more useful for most people to show a 10 or 11 speed with loose cogs and spacers and show how to reload it after you've dropped the lot on the floor and mixed everything up, what percentage of the viewers have 12speed or a 300+ftp for that matter (add 2 teeth to the back and take 2 off the front for everything GCN recommends)
Yeah, XD driver is still fairly uncommon on road bikes, though MTBers might be familiar with it given the ubiquity of GX eagle.
Ollie is wrong about which way high and low limit screws go. The low limit screw is for the big sprocket (the sprocket closest to the spokes) and the high limit screw is for the smallest sprocket (the sprocket closest to the frame)
give him a break.. he's from up t'North ;)
yep, high limit is for high gear, low limit is for low gear.
@@petesmitt Don’t get me wrong, I LOVE Ollie! I was just trying to inform the people the right information. Presenting is hard, I know because I am an introvert hahaha
I think of it this way. Imagine the cassette like a hill or a mountain. The peak is high and the base is low.
@@mahonah yep
this probably irrelevant but how do you fix a stuck rear derailleur ?
Those many spokes matters??? I hav been using 34/34 spokes wheels and now I've upgrade my wheel its now 20/20 spokes
I’m enjoying the bike so far ruclips.net/user/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
Is there any UCI rule for using against larger cassette bigger than 34?
How about MTB cassette and rear derailleur? #askgcn
Filmed in preparation for that steepest hill video I bet 😉
That's when you make a frankenstein with a MTB cassette and rear derailleur
Imagine you have a 11-34 cassette and you swap it to a 11-25 to save weight so you can go uphill easier
Or you know, you can always run smaller chainrings….And avoid big jumps/gaps between each gear
Cassettes cost next to nothing and are very simple to replace, compared to the chainrings.
I still don’t see why any average rider needs a 50 tooth large chainring up front, especially if you don’t race
@@philipcooper8297 It’s often possible to swap chain rings without removing the cranks. I’ve got the biggest cassette my derailleur will allow so smaller chainrings is my easiest and cheapest option
Agreed, I’m decently fit but lightweight so the 52T on my road bike is completely wasted on me! Will be swapping to 50/34 but lower like my gravel bike has would be better!
I think chainring is definitely the option to go for if you want a long term fix for hills/carrying loads etc. I think this video is targeted more at making a quick mod for a specific ride or trip. It is also easier to source a new cassette than a chainring that will fit your cranks.
if you are using the same wheel and freehub why would the high limit now be hitting you spokes? Genuine question as I cannot see how the geometry of the back end can change meaning the sweep of the rear cage now encroaches to the spoke line if there has been no change to the axle length or derailleur position. is this an issue with 12sp SRAM systems?
You are right, there should be no need to adjust the high and low limit screws. The screw that may need adjusting is the "B" limit screw, this adjusts how close the top jockey wheel runs to to biggest cog. If you change gearing and go for a much easier set up then the pulley cage will probbably need to be dropped lower to make room. If you're just changing like for like there should be no need to adjust anything.
Thanks both. 👍 I understand the B limit and have used this on my setup to avoid a clash witht he jockey wheels. The exaggerated movement then could be a misaligned derailleur hanger then or a manufacturing issue with the hanger mount being slightly twisted?
Why no mention of Campagnolo?
It is always boring Shima(NO!)!
Campagnolo were a pain, as they never did an 11-32 cassette, but do on their 12-speed.
I ride their 11-speed Super Record EPS though!
I prefer using a cassette tool that has a central locating pin. .
No issues with assembly for me ruclips.net/user/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L but I could see where some might benefit from using an experienced bike assembler/mechanic. I'm an older rider starting back after a 10 year break. This bike exceeds my capabilities and has been easy to get comfortable riding. I'm mostly on easy trails with almost no street riding and have not been disappointed with the performance of the bike. My fitness level is far below what I previously rode with and because of that the mileage is going on the bike slowly. While I'm losing weight slowly, the bike seems to tolerate my 220 pounds just fine. The bike has been used by several family members ranging from 5'5" - 5'9".
Nerdy cyclist comment incomming: 0:15 --> Don't put your oily fingers in the cassette and then on the disc brake rotor. Or at least clean it right away.
Tapered spline? I don't think so.
Would that all it took to "ride uphill with ease!" was a bigger cassette ! Seriously, liking the latest video but don't start me on chain sizing.
Chain is really only too short in biggy big, if youre adding a bigger sprocket youre probably not gonna be in biggy big anyway
Hey Ollie. Great tutorial but I think you got it the other way around. The high limit is the smallest cog and the low limit is the largest cog.
So let’s do a survey, who here reuses the quick link?
OR find yourself a good bike mechanic and save yourself a lot of frustration and heartache!
Who reads a book anymore lol ? It's all about youtube
Ollie, how can you forget to tell folks that TWO pins need to be removed when installing a new chain.... And that both ends of the chain need the inner links for quick links to be connected to! :/
you don't check the limits with no chain attached!! what are you doing there!! plus, you don't put so much grease on the freewheel, it will centrifuge away to the rotor!
Yea loss weight.
I live in a mountainous city. Replaced my crankset with a compact 50/34 and an 11-34 rear... And I'm a happy camper rolling up hills all day long
Hi, these look like the same specs as my gravel bike but I seem to be struggling on steep hills. Would this be my fitness level if this gear set-up for an 8-gear cassette seems to be the most accommodating? I haven't been in my best shape lately and trying to determine whether my bike is optimized. It's a basic gravel bike, nothing specialized. Sorry I don't speak "gears" fluently. Appreciate your opinion.