Thanks for the in-depth repair process. After watching this, I can now feel confident in taking on this task myself. Thanks again for sharing. Well, to update, I have followed this process and resolved my leak. Might replace the lines in springtime but if I don't at least it is not leaking anymore. One thing I think I did a little different was to slightly grind down the nub/edge that was left behind on the tubing so it would allow me to slide the hose up further to get it as tight as possible. Pretty sure between the flair I added at the end and the hose going past the nub that thing won't be going anywhere.
This works I have a rust spot on my line was right before the engine mount and now o have my Tahoe back thank u man now I don't haft to spend 70 dollars on a line
Phenomenal video - very clear, concise, great camera work. I really appreciate your time and energy. I have a 2009 Hummer H3t where the metal coupling rubbed against the pulley and of course made a whole and obviously a leak. On the freeway at 75 and saw smoke coming out of my rear end - thought it was oil at first but no, transmission fluid hitting the headers and fluid all over the bottom 2/3 of the engine as well as all over under the truck. Had to have the truck towed. Thanks.
You probably want to make the bead a little less pronounced. You have a full ISO bubble. You just need a raised bead of about 1mm to keep the clamped hose from sliding off. Bring the mandrel down 1/4 or 1/2 the distance to the tube holder rather than mashing it all the way down... you'll get a pretty decent bead without handing over your firstborn for Parker tools. Worm clamps work very poorly over time for hoses under 5/8" and they tend not to have protection to keep the hose from extruding through the worm slots and loosening up. Use "Rotor Clip" type Constant Tension Spring Band Clamps or German Fuel Injection Clamps for hoses this small. Both are just as cheap or even cheaper than the worm clamps. I prefer the Constant Tension Spring Band Clamps for this application. They are Self Compensating. Meaning. They will not cut into the hose as it expands with higher temps and they will not loosen and leak when cold temps shrink the hose. SAE J1019 rated hose is the stuff you want to use on a transmission or oil cooler line if you want it to last. I've had parts guys tell me to use fuel line... Fuel line melts in oil at the temps involved.
Thanks Sally K, yes I agree Jay, hose - I have no idea why I said pipe, guess I should write a damn script next time. Still running stong no leaks 9 months. Thanks for positive feedback. Ed
Thanks for the great work and details! I just bought and installed a new Lower line today. I probably should have seen your video last weekend. Thanks though ..
Thanks for the information. This is the Plan B way to repair but not necessarily the best way. Thank you for your time and effort and many guys will benefit from this thrifty method. Thank you again. Thumbs up.
just had the crimp start leaking on mine today. Called GM, $81 bucks wholesale and $108 retail for that line! I'll be buying $10 bucks worth of hose and clamps lol.
I believe a dremel with the fiber round blades that are used for cutting metal should be able to cut the crimp casings and will be easy to handle ! correct me if I am wrong ,,
My 2011 cruze looks like it is leaking from the exact same spot. Except the line is like 3 or 4 inches away from the turbo that obviously gets extremely hot. Time to make a report to NHTSA.
I really don't like a rubber hose being bent like that. It will pinch the flow of the fluid and overheat the transmission. Fuel hoses will only last 5 years before the rubber dries up and you will have to redo it (especially with transmission fluid), but that is simple. I would suggest getting an aftermarket hose kit for a permanent fix. Make sure its not pinching...id hate to see you ruin your transmission.
The hose was bent pretty sharply but only where the solid pipe was under it. Shouldn't be a problem. Had that sharp bend been in just a section of hose, yeah, it wouldn't have been good.
This is one of the best videos to help do what I need to my truck. Line was fused to transcooler & I had to cut my line. I need the fittings for new radiator & need to connect to existing trans cooler line & the after market transcooler. This was very helpful. To keep the hose connections to nicop I bought, I don’t think I need a double flare? What flare tool did you use? Make / model? Thank you.
Thanks man! Fantastic vid. I learned allot and anticipate similar work following inspection of the trans cooling lines on my 02 Firebird later this week.
When you had the car in idle you could see the belt offley close to the line. And keep in mind this is a truck so when you hit a bump or a pothole and that line hits the belt it looks like it could damage it. Is there a way to secure that to keep it from moving around if you hit a pothole?
Nice video Ed , I'm sure it will help more than one D.I.Y. er's ..... even picked up a few tips myself The flaring tool I have is old school , doesn't have the adaptor but I have a friend with a small lathe .
You're repairing this the hard way! Why in the world would you cut the metal line off? A better repair is to cut the aluminum crimp sleeve with a cut off wheel and use the factory knurled metal line!
and yes I have the right amount of transmission fluid and the correct type of transmission fluid within the system, there's only one solution I can see being possible, and I want to see if I can get an agreement let me know your thoughts please thanks
They quoted me the same exact number to put new tranny cooler lines on my 2003 2500HD 6.0L about 2 months ago its BS how expensive it is to do this at a dealer! the parts are only $20.00 on ebay! if it weren't for my limited vehicle experience id do it myself.
the exact tranny cooling line going into the radiator, on my truck, leaks. it's coming from the tubing going into the coupling with the clip. is there an o-ring inside the coupling?
Just grind off (split) the crimped ferrule over the hose and peel it off. Remove the hose and you have the perfect tubing untouched to put the new hose on. You're doing a whole lot of unnecessary (bad) work for no reason
Andrew okay. I ended up taking the truck to the shop (huge mistake). They replaced the entire tranny cooler line, and it still leaked (because it was the connection not the line) and then I took it back, and they literally did exactly what this video did. >.>
I did this without flaring and 1 week later the hose blew off and I ruined my perfectly good transmission when I lost all the fluid. $1800 LESSON for Transmission Rebuild!!! FLARE THE ENDS!!!!!!!
Hello, Ed - Sorry for the naive question I'm about to make, but.. Does these hoses have to be 100% of the time dry? One of those hoses is permanently wet in my car and the Trans Fluid isn't getting lower. Could you help me solve this issue?
Sure...but more parts needed. It's actually a bit easier to just dremel the crimp sleeve off. Use needle nose pliers if needed, then replace hose and double clamp ends.
The only thing I have to say a pipe is consisting of metal not rubber, you are dealing with hoses not pipes. Get it right! You will confuse people with terminology. It is also best to with such a new vehicle is to replace with oem parts not fittings and hoses. That is a temporary fix! Most likely a leak won't occur in a long while if you fix with the oem parts.. That was just a bad part only.Fixing it this way is a disaster waiting to happen cause it has a great possibility to leak very soon!
+sally k I agree, GM , Ford and other manufacturers all have issues with pressure hoses leaking because they are trying to save a buck on manufacturing and years down the road it's the consumer who pays for it in the long run. I repaired my oil cooler lines I used rubber air conditioning hose it has a thicker wall thickness of about 1/2" wall thickness . I also used SS clamps and after running my truck for a couple of weeks I injected silicone in the screw clamps to lock the screws from backing out . 12 yrs and still leak free.
I'm pretty sure all the tools on that vid are from Auto Zone. the pin puller might be from Harbor Freight. What city are you in? Please subscribe, thanks!
+Brian Stout SAE J1019 Transmission Oil Cooler Hose is rated to work at 300-400PSI and close to 300F. So it`s not SAE J2050 Power steering pressure hose rated at 1,500 PSI... Big deal. The transmission cooler lines don't see those pressures.
GM has had issues with these crimped hose connections for years and years failing. This truck is a 2014 and they are leaking that is sad. Doing this type of repair is better then OE crimp connected hoses. If he got a new hose from the dealer it would leak again in short time.
SkilledEddie this is why they have after market lines for this one reason. they r heavy duty and r used to the heat and hard use. they r mostly used off road. look them up. they r still covered under factory warranty not his fix it will void a warranty if taken back into a dealer from transmission overheating due to that fix.
+SkilledEddie I completely agree. I have a Buick and have now replaced both transmission cooler lines THREE times. GM's crimped trans lines do not last.
Or you can just get a brand new hose for about $23 from the dealer and replace the whole thing with a factory part. I am getting ready to do this job now and I bought the entire hose assembly that goes all the way from the radiator to the transmission for $23 and some change. It will be a pain to change the whole thing but it will be as good as new.
You are correct I am sure. After looking at what it would take take to replace the hose I did your repair but didn't flare the line. BAD MOVE! 1 week later it blew off one end and I lost all my fluid and 3rd-4th gear. $1800 later my transmission is rebuilt and they installed the factory hose for me while it was apart. I should have followed your procedure exactly! I even have a flaring tool but didn't use it. Posting this so someone else doesn't take the same shortcut I did! Thanks for the video.
All the time he took to cut the hose and flange the ends he could of have replaced the complete line its less then 30 dollars and its a complete job not a Mickey mouse shit done to it
Thanks tgbluesky. also for those that are not a fan of the simple hose clamps in comments, still no leaks 2 years 3 months later, including towing travel trailer through mountains. thanks ed
Dexron VI = 6 Dexron V = 5 Dexron IV =4 Dexron III =3 Incase other viewers went in and asked for a certain type of fluid... Dont want people adding wrong fluid types to the trans. Good vid!
I know that it's been a while since you posted this, but I am glad I found it. I have a transmission line doing almost the same thing. I appreciate you guys that go out of your way to make a video on how you fix your vehicles, even though some don't agree with the way that it's done. I do.
Thanks for the great work and details! I just bought and installed a new Lower line today. I probably should have seen your video last weekend. Thanks though ..
Hi Ed, I have an 04' Silverado 1500 with the HD tow package, so I have the HD tranny and cooling system. My lower (I believe the return) was leaking at the top crimp joint through the hole just as you describe and I was experiencing slipping at this point due to low fluid level. I got under it today to see if I could replace the entire line I just bought, but they don't make vehicles to be easily repaired without a lift, so i had to fall back 20 and punt.... Hmmmmm. Thought about how you did it and there just wasn't any room to cut and flare, so I decided to unscrew the nut holding the line in the radiator and cut the TOC hose flush with the end of the cheap, soft aluminum sleeve (the root issue with the line) where it was leaking. Now I'm committed... LOL I then decided to use my small pneumatic cutoff wheel to "split the cheap crimped sleeve" to see what was under it. What do you know, the damn pipe has a concave barb formed in it!!!! Put a pipe clamp over the tube, reinstalled the radiator end, slipped the hose over the barbed end and tightened the clamp.... Fantastic! No leaks after topping off fluid and running for 10 minutes or so. Now for the road test... Headed out to the beltway, kicked it getting and off and cruised at 65-70 both ways to give it a workout. If it went I could walk the few miles home if need be. Got it back to my garage, checked the line, dry as a bone!!!!! I think this is a whole lot easier then all the cutting and flaring and a much better fix considering the pipe is already barbed for a hose! Thanks for the lead though and sorry you went through the unnecesary work of cutting and flaring. I even still have at least 2 inches of tube to play with should I even need to address it again, but somehow I don't think I'll have anymore issues with it. It seems to be a better solution then putting a replacement line in as long as the joints don't leak.... Cheers!
Growing up I could always ask dad when it came to repairs, and yes his name was Ed Mueller :) seems it goes on just got a big leak in one if the lines on my Expedition.
Very nicely done sir. You can cut the crimp area off and the it already has a flare under it, but it's a pain in the but. Thanks for the post. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
Just a suggestion as Darren Mcgowan suggested below - instead of using a pipe cutter and having to flare the tubing, why not cut off the crimp fitting and have the whole length of the pipe to work with and have the built in "bump" so you wouldn't have to flare the end?
I watched this after I bought 3 new lines from the Chevy dealer. I am fixing a lot of dear damage to the front end, and want the truck to be reliable. The Allison transmission and truck is worth the cost of replacing the lines, as I have everything torn apart anyway.
Please check out my new Automotive video: ruclips.net/video/yjcw-WjOzGk/видео.html
you're the only one out of all the videos i've watched that flaired the end of the tubing, great video.
It's nice to see someone on You Tube using the correct tools to do the job , Great video ...
Thanks for the in-depth repair process. After watching this, I can now feel confident in taking on this task myself. Thanks again for sharing. Well, to update, I have followed this process and resolved my leak. Might replace the lines in springtime but if I don't at least it is not leaking anymore. One thing I think I did a little different was to slightly grind down the nub/edge that was left behind on the tubing so it would allow me to slide the hose up further to get it as tight as possible. Pretty sure between the flair I added at the end and the hose going past the nub that thing won't be going anywhere.
This works I have a rust spot on my line was right before the engine mount and now o have my Tahoe back thank u man now I don't haft to spend 70 dollars on a line
Thank you for this. Even though i'm not going to do the work myself its great to be able to speak intelligently to my mechanic.
Phenomenal video - very clear, concise, great camera work. I really appreciate your time and energy. I have a 2009 Hummer H3t where the metal coupling rubbed against the pulley and of course made a whole and obviously a leak. On the freeway at 75 and saw smoke coming out of my rear end - thought it was oil at first but no, transmission fluid hitting the headers and fluid all over the bottom 2/3 of the engine as well as all over under the truck. Had to have the truck towed. Thanks.
Bought a flaring kit at Advanced auto part for 19.99$. Fixed the leak on my Ford F150 in about half an hours. Thanks.
You probably want to make the bead a little less pronounced. You have a full ISO bubble. You just need a raised bead of about 1mm to keep the clamped hose from sliding off. Bring the mandrel down 1/4 or 1/2 the distance to the tube holder rather than mashing it all the way down... you'll get a pretty decent bead without handing over your firstborn for Parker tools.
Worm clamps work very poorly over time for hoses under 5/8" and they tend not to have protection to keep the hose from extruding through the worm slots and loosening up. Use "Rotor Clip" type Constant Tension Spring Band Clamps or German Fuel Injection Clamps for hoses this small. Both are just as cheap or even cheaper than the worm clamps. I prefer the Constant Tension Spring Band Clamps for this application. They are Self Compensating. Meaning. They will not cut into the hose as it expands with higher temps and they will not loosen and leak when cold temps shrink the hose.
SAE J1019 rated hose is the stuff you want to use on a transmission or oil cooler line if you want it to last. I've had parts guys tell me to use fuel line... Fuel line melts in oil at the temps involved.
Transmission cooler
Thanks! This info is helpful for the upcoming repair on my truck.
Great video ! The only thing I would do is use fuel injector clamps instead of the worm clamps ! Just added protection for very little money !
Excellent job of making a video
Very easy to understand and it save me a lot of work because I was going to replace the lines
Thanks Sally K, yes I agree Jay, hose - I have no idea why I said pipe, guess I should write a damn script next time. Still running stong no leaks 9 months. Thanks for positive feedback. Ed
Ed Mueller
Ed Mueller 👍🏻
Good job. Thank You.
Thanks for the great work and details! I just bought and installed a new Lower line today. I probably should have seen your video last weekend. Thanks though ..
Thank you very much. I just used your repair to fix my oil cooler line on my 1983 Coupe Deville.
Good. The DeVille is a classique
Thanks for the information. This is the Plan B way to repair but not necessarily the best way. Thank you for your time and effort and many guys will benefit from this thrifty method. Thank you again. Thumbs up.
Ed, thanks for the video my 05 2500HD actually started leaking at the crimp joints of both pipes. Guess what my weekend project is..........
that was a bad factory crimp! good repair , it will work just as good if not better in my opinion.
Should use Oekiter Clamps, not worm-screw clamps.
Great video this makes a lot of sense. I will be doing this for my Land Rover D1.
just had the crimp start leaking on mine today. Called GM, $81 bucks wholesale and $108 retail for that line! I'll be buying $10 bucks worth of hose and clamps lol.
perfect ! the for sharing !! doing ALL my lines on 94 Land Rover RRC 4.8 LWB !!
You just saved me $200. Thanks Ed!
I believe a dremel with the fiber round blades that are used for cutting metal should be able to cut the crimp casings and will be easy to handle ! correct me if I am wrong ,,
Cool! I did a similar repair in my 77 Pinto back in the day.
Verry good way of doing it, thank you verry much, this is actualy the way I'm going todo it on my both Duramax
Sounds like this is a good fix for the Ford F-150 09-14 with the same transmission crimp issues. Good way to save some money.
Question: Where did you buy the "Flare Tool"? I have been looking for one of those without braking the bank. Thanks
My 2011 cruze looks like it is leaking from the exact same spot. Except the line is like 3 or 4 inches away from the turbo that obviously gets extremely hot. Time to make a report to NHTSA.
A PEX CRIMPER !!!
But thank you, you make it seem easy now.
nice video, Did you forget to put the black plastic clip retainer on before you flared the end of the pipe? I couldn't tell if it was on there
In the future just cut the crimp off, new hose would have slid right on and stayed because it has the lip on the pipe to hold it once clamped...
Hi what did you use to cut the crimp off
I really don't like a rubber hose being bent like that. It will pinch the flow of the fluid and overheat the transmission. Fuel hoses will only last 5 years before the rubber dries up and you will have to redo it (especially with transmission fluid), but that is simple. I would suggest getting an aftermarket hose kit for a permanent fix. Make sure its not pinching...id hate to see you ruin your transmission.
The hose was bent pretty sharply but only where the solid pipe was under it. Shouldn't be a problem. Had that sharp bend been in just a section of hose, yeah, it wouldn't have been good.
+1 With the hose being over the bend in the steel tubing, there is no chance of it crimping.
This is one of the best videos to help do what I need to my truck. Line was fused to transcooler & I had to cut my line. I need the fittings for new radiator & need to connect to existing trans cooler line & the after market transcooler. This was very helpful. To keep the hose connections to nicop I bought, I don’t think I need a double flare? What flare tool did you use? Make / model? Thank you.
It was a flaring kit I bought at Auto Zone. I want to say it was like 19.99 or 29.99. I comes in a little plastic case.
What happened to good simple cheap hose clamps? Why are they making life difficult?
Just bought a whole new line for super cheap on rock auto, acdelco too.
Thanks man! Fantastic vid. I learned allot and anticipate similar work following inspection of the trans cooling lines on my 02 Firebird later this week.
fuel injection hose pretty much the same thing ? cause that's what i used
This seems better than the crimp. I think I have these tools as well
could the leak have been putting out more fluid on the road under pressure accounting for the loss?
great job explaining and videoing the repair !
Thanks bud!
ruclips.net/video/iXdg4qPR4RM/видео.html
you might like this oil vid as well. Please subscribe so I can make more. Thanks.
When you had the car in idle you could see the belt offley close to the line. And keep in mind this is a truck so when you hit a bump or a pothole and that line hits the belt it looks like it could damage it. Is there a way to secure that to keep it from moving around if you hit a pothole?
Tanks a lot señor!
Can it splatter all over the side of the battery and on top of the transmission?
You don't mind posting the name of that tool you used to make those flares on the aluminum holes. And that other item that cut the aluminum holes too
Why does it leak from the small hole... That's my question :) Design ? I don't get it ! Thanks if you can answer this Ed.
Good repair I wouldn't debur over my engine tho.
Might be a dumb question but my 01 6.0 is leaking coolant like crazy could it be from this line? It's the only thing on the radiator I see that's wet
Nice video Ed , I'm sure it will help more than one D.I.Y. er's ..... even picked up a few tips myself
The flaring tool I have is old school , doesn't have the adaptor but I have a friend with a small lathe .
nice clean job
Good low budget repair
Awesome video thanks!!
Which flaring tool are you using,,brand please!!
Simple job. Use FI clamps instead so they don’t dig into the hose. That’s also Dexron 6 not 5 lol.
what type of hose did YOU use and can YOU use power steering hose?
You're repairing this the hard way! Why in the world would you cut the metal line off? A better repair is to cut the aluminum crimp sleeve with a cut off wheel and use the factory knurled metal line!
and yes I have the right amount of transmission fluid and the correct type of transmission fluid within the system, there's only one solution I can see being possible, and I want to see if I can get an agreement let me know your thoughts please thanks
They quoted me the same exact number to put new tranny cooler lines on my 2003 2500HD 6.0L about 2 months ago its BS how expensive it is to do this at a dealer! the parts are only $20.00 on ebay! if it weren't for my limited vehicle experience id do it myself.
Just re crimp the existing crimps can be done in place. Takes 10 minutes.
cool fix
the exact tranny cooling line going into the radiator, on my truck, leaks. it's coming from the tubing going into the coupling with the clip. is there an o-ring inside the coupling?
Just grind off (split) the crimped ferrule over the hose and peel it off. Remove the hose and you have the perfect tubing untouched to put the new hose on. You're doing a whole lot of unnecessary (bad) work for no reason
U have a link for the tool you used to flare the pipes?
I don't have those flaring tools and such... you think I could do this without flaring it? Just throwing the tube on with 2 hose clamps on each side?
onlylikenerd I tried to do this without flaring it and it leaked
Andrew okay. I ended up taking the truck to the shop (huge mistake). They replaced the entire tranny cooler line, and it still leaked (because it was the connection not the line) and then I took it back, and they literally did exactly what this video did. >.>
I did this without flaring and 1 week later the hose blew off and I ruined my perfectly good transmission when I lost all the fluid. $1800 LESSON for Transmission Rebuild!!! FLARE THE ENDS!!!!!!!
It's actually a bit easier to just dremel the crimp sleeve off. Use needle nose pliers if needed, then replace hose and double clamp ends.
Isn't that dexron 6?
Hello, Ed - Sorry for the naive question I'm about to make, but.. Does these hoses have to be 100% of the time dry? One of those hoses is permanently wet in my car and the Trans Fluid isn't getting lower. Could you help me solve this issue?
Not sure, wipe it, is it wet with black oil or red Trans. fluid? Could it be condensation water drip from AC?
+Ed Mueller It's blackish, but I don't understand where oil could be dripping from.
Ed Mueller used hyyyj
this is the high pressure line or low pressure line than you show in the video
Yes just use 2 clamps
can you just use a compression fitting with a barbed fitting on the other end?
Sure...but more parts needed. It's actually a bit easier to just dremel the crimp sleeve off. Use needle nose pliers if needed, then replace hose and double clamp ends.
this is for a f250 6.0 ??
is possible just cut the hose and the pipe and put some clams without the flaring ? or not ,
The only thing I have to say a pipe is consisting of metal not rubber, you are dealing with hoses not pipes. Get it right! You will confuse people with terminology. It is also best to with such a new vehicle is to replace with oem parts not fittings and hoses. That is a temporary fix! Most likely a leak won't occur in a long while if you fix with the oem parts.. That was just a bad part only.Fixing it this way is a disaster waiting to happen cause it has a great possibility to leak very soon!
+sally k I agree, GM , Ford and other manufacturers all have issues with pressure hoses leaking because they are trying to save a buck on manufacturing and years down the road it's the consumer who pays for it in the long run. I repaired my oil cooler lines I used rubber air conditioning hose it has a thicker wall thickness of about 1/2" wall thickness . I also used SS clamps and after running my truck for a couple of weeks I injected silicone in the screw clamps to lock the screws from backing out . 12 yrs and still leak free.
Thanks for your input, I want to do it to last. Temp is good when stuck on the road.
What is the name of the tool that you use
The Flare Tool or the Pick and Hook?
Where u buy the tools ??
I'm pretty sure all the tools on that vid are from Auto Zone. the pin puller might be from Harbor Freight. What city are you in? Please subscribe, thanks!
@@MuellerMechanical I'm in texas I'll find it on Amazon thank u and great video it help me out
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so they arent high pressure lines????
+Brian Stout SAE J1019 Transmission Oil Cooler Hose is rated to work at 300-400PSI and close to 300F. So it`s not SAE J2050 Power steering pressure hose rated at 1,500 PSI... Big deal. The transmission cooler lines don't see those pressures.
What tool Is that
Flaring Tool
seems would have been a lot easier to just replace the entire assembly....
GM has had issues with these crimped hose connections for years and years failing. This truck is a 2014 and they are leaking that is sad. Doing this type of repair is better then OE crimp connected hoses. If he got a new hose from the dealer it would leak again in short time.
SkilledEddie this is why they have after market lines for this one reason. they r heavy duty and r used to the heat and hard use. they r mostly used off road. look them up. they r still covered under factory warranty not his fix it will void a warranty if taken back into a dealer from transmission overheating due to that fix.
+SkilledEddie I completely agree. I have a Buick and have now replaced both transmission cooler lines THREE times. GM's crimped trans lines do not last.
That is dextron six not five
whoops
Or you can just get a brand new hose for about $23 from the dealer and replace the whole thing with a factory part. I am getting ready to do this job now and I bought the entire hose assembly that goes all the way from the radiator to the transmission for $23 and some change. It will be a pain to change the whole thing but it will be as good as new.
Darryl Vaughan And it will just leak in the same spot. Every Chevy I owned leaked at this spot. Been doing this on everyone for last 15 years.
You are correct I am sure. After looking at what it would take take to replace the hose I did your repair but didn't flare the line. BAD MOVE! 1 week later it blew off one end and I lost all my fluid and 3rd-4th gear. $1800 later my transmission is rebuilt and they installed the factory hose for me while it was apart. I should have followed your procedure exactly! I even have a flaring tool but didn't use it. Posting this so someone else doesn't take the same shortcut I did! Thanks for the video.
ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS use a flare of some sort and double clamp, that's a lot of pressure.
Turn the phucckin background music off when you make videos.
All the time he took to cut the hose and flange the ends he could of have replaced the complete line its less then 30 dollars and its a complete job not a Mickey mouse shit done to it
Transmission oil coolant line hater
I don't get it?
Thanks tgbluesky. also for those that are not a fan of the simple hose clamps in comments, still no leaks 2 years 3 months later, including towing travel trailer through mountains. thanks ed
The hole is there for a reason. It means the seal or rubber is failing. It beats losing all of your fluid at once.
2 clamps are better
Dexron VI = 6
Dexron V = 5
Dexron IV =4
Dexron III =3
Incase other viewers went in and asked for a certain type of fluid...
Dont want people adding wrong fluid types to the trans.
Good vid!
I know that it's been a while since you posted this, but I am glad I found it. I have a transmission line doing almost the same thing. I appreciate you guys that go out of your way to make a video on how you fix your vehicles, even though some don't agree with the way that it's done. I do.
Did this last night, no leaks. THANKS. No stores in my area had a line that fit my GMC.
Great video I really like the way you did it it does make sense by flaring the lines thanks for the help I'll be fixing my truck tomorrow.
Thanks for the great work and details! I just bought and installed a new Lower line today. I probably should have seen your video last weekend. Thanks though ..
Hi Ed, I have an 04' Silverado 1500 with the HD tow package, so I have the HD tranny and cooling system. My lower (I believe the return) was leaking at the top crimp joint through the hole just as you describe and I was experiencing slipping at this point due to low fluid level. I got under it today to see if I could replace the entire line I just bought, but they don't make vehicles to be easily repaired without a lift, so i had to fall back 20 and punt.... Hmmmmm. Thought about how you did it and there just wasn't any room to cut and flare, so I decided to unscrew the nut holding the line in the radiator and cut the TOC hose flush with the end of the cheap, soft aluminum sleeve (the root issue with the line) where it was leaking. Now I'm committed... LOL I then decided to use my small pneumatic cutoff wheel to "split the cheap crimped sleeve" to see what was under it. What do you know, the damn pipe has a concave barb formed in it!!!! Put a pipe clamp over the tube, reinstalled the radiator end, slipped the hose over the barbed end and tightened the clamp.... Fantastic! No leaks after topping off fluid and running for 10 minutes or so. Now for the road test... Headed out to the beltway, kicked it getting and off and cruised at 65-70 both ways to give it a workout. If it went I could walk the few miles home if need be. Got it back to my garage, checked the line, dry as a bone!!!!! I think this is a whole lot easier then all the cutting and flaring and a much better fix considering the pipe is already barbed for a hose! Thanks for the lead though and sorry you went through the unnecesary work of cutting and flaring. I even still have at least 2 inches of tube to play with should I even need to address it again, but somehow I don't think I'll have anymore issues with it. It seems to be a better solution then putting a replacement line in as long as the joints don't leak.... Cheers!
I just want to say that this is what I did to my Chevy and haven't had a problem yet.
Thank you! with your help I was able to repair my F150.
Very good video, good angles shots very good information, Good job, good repair
Growing up I could always ask dad when it came to repairs, and yes his name was Ed Mueller :) seems it goes on just got a big leak in one if the lines on my Expedition.
Very nicely done sir. You can cut the crimp area off and the it already has a flare under it, but it's a pain in the but. Thanks for the post. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
It's easy with a dremel then a needle nose pliers to remove the rest
Thanks for explaining makes sense best video of all the ones I've seen
Awesome how-to, will use same process for my 04 Escalade EXT. thanks man!
Stop calling it a pipe, it's a hose. Great video though.
Just a suggestion as Darren Mcgowan suggested below - instead of using a pipe cutter and having to flare the tubing, why not cut off the crimp fitting and have the whole length of the pipe to work with and have the built in "bump" so you wouldn't have to flare the end?
This was a great video, very detailed and informative. Thank you for your hard work.
Dude your my fucking hero! On my 02 Chevy 8.1 the same damn line in the same damn spot! From one mechanic to another, thank you!
this video was work of art, good job!
I watched this after I bought 3 new lines from the Chevy dealer. I am fixing a lot of dear damage to the front end, and want the truck to be reliable. The Allison transmission and truck is worth the cost of replacing the lines, as I have everything torn apart anyway.