I have tried to emulate your style and techniques and have been able to turn out bowls and dishes that I never would have thought possible a year ago. Thank you very much for show your work, including catches, mistakes, and "adaptations"... I very much enjoy every video you put out.
@thefish5861 l totally agree with you. I am an Australian citizen who had the privilege and pleasure to meet Richard Raffan in person years ago when l attended a timber show with others men from Toowoomba
Always a pleasure to watch you turn and see your techniques and recovery from issues as they occur during a turning. Had always wondered if a continental gouge was sufficient for cross-grain work -- thanks for answering that question.
I was really pleased to see you feature the 3/4” continental roughing gouge, as I purchased one a few weeks ago. When I first used it I was a bit disappointed but tried it again the other day and handled it a bit better. I thought I seen you use it before but couldn’t find the video. So this one is great just what I needed. A true master with any tool. Lovely plate. Thank you. I tried the sock and it works a treat. 👍🏼
I'd stick with bowl gouges if you have them - they don't catch so readily as these do when hollowing, and entry cuts are much easier with deep fluted bowl gouges.
Wonderful as always Richard. I've been going back and re-watching all your bowl videos. I'm getting catches with my scraper in the transition area inside the bowls and trying to figure out why. You sure make it look easy! : - )
I see you’ve added a stop block to the top front edge of your dust extraction setup. Very good! It had me worried in a couple of videos where the top was coming precipitously close to the spinning piece!
The black infill was ideal, a useful technique. I now use Chestnut products Black CA adhesive for the same reason & it works very well. In one piece of spalted beech, I couldn't find it afterwards.
Every bowl I make is sold with label stuck on the base: Richard Raffan made this bowl to be used. Hand wash in hot water and detergent. Wipe occasionally with vegetable oil. Cared for it will look better for use and should survive us all.
Hello Richard, please could you let me/us know the brand of Inertia sander you use and where one could be purchased from. Thanking you in anticipation of your answer. I'd like to take this opportunity also to thank you for your time and patience in organizing, filming, editing and posting your educational videos. They truly are an inspiration to myself and I believe other woodturners around the globe. I am certainly becoming a better turner by far and faster through your tuition. I pass on your channel details to all the newcomers at our local woodturning club as I believe they can only improve their skills too by watching you. It is the way you explain your style and what you are attempting to achieve. This you do on all your videos, and It Is this repetition (rote) teaching style that instills the skill into the viewer. Please keep up your excellent form of woodturning education and once again, thank you, regards and best wishes to you and yours. Tony.
I think it was the gouge preferred for bowls until about 60 years ago. I've seen film of a German in the 1930s using a similar tool to turn a large lidded bowl and I used them myself in the early 1970s.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Because of the language barrier we seem to be stuck with the traditional gouge, not even hss gouges, and the traditional grind with the push cut, only now a couple youtubers who speak English started pulling the wings back like the Irish grind. Suppose we're 30-20 years behind
@@jrk1666 Not behind, just a different approach. The angle of the portion of the edge to the oncoming wood as it cuts is much the same. In the 1970s deep-fluted bowl gouges were ground straight across. When hollowing, I kept catching the left corner of the edge so ground that away, producing a swept-back wing. I soon discovered I could use that left wing for pull cuts and remove waste far more efficiently than using the standard push cuts required when a gouge is ground square. My asymmetric grind might have become popular in the early Eighties, but the first sharpening jigs came along. Jigs can’t produce a spiral asymmetric edge so my gouges never caught on whilst swept-back wings did.
nicely done. That was a nice piece of ash. It seemed very dry from the clink it made when you plonked the blank down on the lathe before you mounted it. Was that from a slab which went through the kiln, or did you source an air dried one from somewhere?
❤ Beautiful 🙏Ash have a strange reaction changing color when prepared with ammonia English Alm are family with Ash but do not react the same way to ammonia 🤢
Rice bran oil is new to me. I thought I'd try it when I couldn't find any boiled linseed. Seems to just what i like. I've never had any cooking oils go rancid, but mixing them with beeswax might be the reason.
Hello Richard, thank yyou for this instructive video! I have a question about the jaws and the diameter of the tenon: Which are the dimensions of each or how much is the difference between the diameter of the closed jaws and the tenon? Thank you, greetings from Germany!
You'll find the dimensions of each Vicmarc chuck on the Vicmarc website. There are lots of jaw sets. The range of movement jaws grip without marking a tenon or foot is about 5mm. ruclips.net/video/DV2T6oJgCi4/видео.html
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you very much for the videolink! I tried this several times in the past, but often made the tenon a bit to small, so i had to redesign it, because i always wanted to be as close to the jawdiameter as possible, now i go 5mm over it!
@@haraldmayer8113 If you go over the diameter of the jaws, the jaws will mark the tenon or foot. When the foot is slightly smaller, the tenon or foot is gripped by the centre of each jaw.
Hello, I am Italian and confused about what a continental gauge is: a bowl gouge? Sometimes it’s so hard to translate the technical terms. Could you clarify please? Thanks
It's a long and strong shallow gouge, typically called a continental gouge in Britain and North America. These days mostly used as a spindle roughing gouge, but it used to be used for turning bowls as well.
great demo Richard. In Spain old woodturners emploi a lot the continental gouge for dishes. Miguel Lopez, the "spanish Raffan" demostrates in this video a continental gouge but with a asimetric profile as their master was invented. Miguel adds a micro bevel and uses for turning and for scraping with same gouge. Speed improved for production. Has a signature gouges from Crown i think. ruclips.net/video/fji_N06FNWY/видео.htmlsi=fd10G3rQA2go6rwX&t=72
That little catch - it’s almost the only time it ever happens to me nowadays, pulling the tool away from the work. I think my depth perception and ability to focus have both faded with old age. 🥴
You're told by people who don't know how much they don't know about turning wood. It’s only deep-fluted spindle-roughing gouges that shouldn’t be used for bowls and other facework. Deep-fluted spindle-roughing gouges were designed for roughing spindles. They used to be marketed simply as roughing gouges, so novice turners, not unreasonably, used them for roughing bowls and heavy catches often resulted in a broken gouge. That’s where this myth that no spindle gouges should be used for bowls comes from - people using the wrong tool for the job.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning How could I ever doubt you Richard. 😂 I have never used a continental gouge. For penance, I went back to your tutorial from September 2022. Lesson learnt...... Thanks for your patience and support. 'We are not worthy.'
I’vegot a couple of Ashley Iles continental roughing gouges and have always thought they are far more versatile tools than conventional spindle roughing gouges, albeit easy to make a mess with if you use them incorrectly. Whilst they are not a bar of steel, the tang is perfectly substantial for face work use, although obviously there’s a blank size at which you'd move to a bowl gouge or spindle equivalent, as Richard always does.
I have tried to emulate your style and techniques and have been able to turn out bowls and dishes that I never would have thought possible a year ago. Thank you very much for show your work, including catches, mistakes, and "adaptations"... I very much enjoy every video you put out.
To me, Richard Raffan is an inspiration for all who turn timber
I swear, you could turn a bowl with a skew! You are incredible. I love watching your videos and have learned so much from you!
He could probably turn one with a snow shovel.
Richard Raffan is an inspiration for all of us who turn timber
@thefish5861 l totally agree with you. I am an Australian citizen who had the privilege and pleasure to meet Richard Raffan in person years ago when l attended a timber show with others men from Toowoomba
I was hooked on turning pens. So I have been called Penqueen.
Always a pleasure to watch you turn and see your techniques and recovery from issues as they occur during a turning. Had always wondered if a continental gouge was sufficient for cross-grain work -- thanks for answering that question.
Richard, another great video sharing your expertise and experience. I always learn new things on almost every video you make. Thank you so very much.
The epoxy demonstration was very helpful to me
THANK YOU for another great video I learn something every time!
I like the new additions to the dust collection hood to stop the lid vibration moving it.
Well noticed. I've been looking for a comment.
Very nice Richard. I always enjoy watching you work
1
Great grain Richard , looks like beach sand with waves , pretty cool .
The grain pattern is really beautiful and unusual.
Thanks Richard them catches still shock me when it happens . Even when you are turning and snap but you recovered just fine.
I've had lots of practice and practiced catching tools to order as that's useful when teaching. This was the genuine article.
Thank you for this video. I have a 3/4 inch continental gouge but never really learned the correct way to use it. Now I know!!
Also excellent for roughing spindles.
First time I've seen anyone feature a continental gouge. Thanks, buddy! The catch didn't hurt the overall look of the dish.
I was really pleased to see you feature the 3/4” continental roughing gouge, as I purchased one a few weeks ago. When I first used it I was a bit disappointed but tried it again the other day and handled it a bit better. I thought I seen you use it before but couldn’t find the video. So this one is great just what I needed. A true master with any tool. Lovely plate. Thank you. I tried the sock and it works a treat. 👍🏼
This is the first time I've used this one. You see a much older one in Gouges for Bowls ruclips.net/video/9BH41jx05KI/видео.html
Thank you for the older video info Richard, great information.
Realy a Profi !
Greetings from Austria to Australien.
Incredibly beautiful plate Richard.
Great job as always from the master. I haven't used one of the contintal spindle gouges before but I am inspired to get one and try now
I'd stick with bowl gouges if you have them - they don't catch so readily as these do when hollowing, and entry cuts are much easier with deep fluted bowl gouges.
Very nice I like imperfection that you filled with epoxy. another fine video. Thanks.
Love your work 😊.
Nice piece of work Richard.🙂🙂
Nice job. Thank you for sharing 🌞
Wonderful as always Richard. I've been going back and re-watching all your bowl videos. I'm getting catches with my scraper in the transition area inside the bowls and trying to figure out why. You sure make it look easy! : - )
Love turning African black wood, I shall keep the sanding dust from now on 😂
I see you’ve added a stop block to the top front edge of your dust extraction setup. Very good! It had me worried in a couple of videos where the top was coming precipitously close to the spinning piece!
The black infill was ideal, a useful technique. I now use Chestnut products Black CA adhesive for the same reason & it works very well. In one piece of spalted beech, I couldn't find it afterwards.
I have mixed feelings while you were using that continental gouge. It seemed louder and it appeared to jump some.
This ash was very hard and dusty and almost certainly kilned.
Hi Richard, could you please tell me the brand and size of the square end scraper that you used to scrape the outside and inside of the bowl? Thanks.
The scraper is a Henry Taylor Raffan Signature skewed shear scraper. It's 1"x ¼" thick.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks very much for your reply, I will go and buy one.
@@canterburyfishingadventures Or convert a short 1" skew chisel or standard scraper if you have one.
Thanks for another great video, Richard! How would you recommend a client care for a dish made using the rice bran oil and bees wax finish?
Every bowl I make is sold with label stuck on the base: Richard Raffan made this bowl to be used. Hand wash in hot water and detergent. Wipe occasionally with vegetable oil. Cared for it will look better for use and should survive us all.
Hello Richard, please could you let me/us know the brand of Inertia sander you use and where one could be purchased from. Thanking you in anticipation of your answer.
I'd like to take this opportunity also to thank you for your time and patience in organizing, filming, editing and posting your educational videos. They truly are an inspiration to myself and I believe other woodturners around the globe. I am certainly becoming a better turner by far and faster through your tuition. I pass on your channel details to all the newcomers at our local woodturning club as I believe they can only improve their skills too by watching you. It is the way you explain your style and what you are attempting to achieve. This you do on all your videos, and It Is this repetition (rote) teaching style that instills the skill into the viewer.
Please keep up your excellent form of woodturning education and once again, thank you, regards and best wishes to you and yours.
Tony.
Many thanks for your comments and appreciation. This rotary sander is from Vicmarc. it has a twist-and-lock adjustable head that's very easy to use.
This style of gouge is still very popular here in brazil, even for bowl turning
I think it was the gouge preferred for bowls until about 60 years ago. I've seen film of a German in the 1930s using a similar tool to turn a large lidded bowl and I used them myself in the early 1970s.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Because of the language barrier we seem to be stuck with the traditional gouge, not even hss gouges, and the traditional grind with the push cut, only now a couple youtubers who speak English started pulling the wings back like the Irish grind. Suppose we're 30-20 years behind
@@jrk1666 Not behind, just a different approach. The angle of the portion of the edge to the oncoming wood as it cuts is much the same. In the 1970s deep-fluted bowl gouges were ground straight across. When hollowing, I kept catching the left corner of the edge so ground that away, producing a swept-back wing.
I soon discovered I could use that left wing for pull cuts and remove waste far more efficiently than using the standard push cuts required when a gouge is ground square.
My asymmetric grind might have become popular in the early Eighties, but the first sharpening jigs came along. Jigs can’t produce a spiral asymmetric edge so my gouges never caught on whilst swept-back wings did.
another very instructive video, thanks. Is "claret" ash different to ordinary ash?
Claret ash is a hybrid developed in South Australia early last century and is very similar to European ash. The leaves go purple in autumn.
Garry NOT Linda. I have one of those that came with the used Shopsmith I bought a few years ago. About what angle is yours sharpened at?
45° bevel on the nose, steeper on the right wing.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you so much.
nicely done. That was a nice piece of ash. It seemed very dry from the clink it made when you plonked the blank down on the lathe before you mounted it. Was that from a slab which went through the kiln, or did you source an air dried one from somewhere?
This ash was very hard and dusty and almost certainly kilned. I purchased it at a garage sale and don't know it's provenance.
Love the figure in this piece! Did you use the 3/4 Continental gouge just show that it could be done or was there some other motive?
Mostly to show it can be done. If you have lbowls gouges, I'd use those as they're less likely to catch.
❤ Beautiful 🙏Ash have a strange reaction changing color when prepared with ammonia English Alm are family with Ash but do not react the same way to ammonia 🤢
Will the rice bran oil go rancid? Looks right off the market shelf. Nice work as usual!
Rice bran oil is new to me. I thought I'd try it when I couldn't find any boiled linseed. Seems to just what i like. I've never had any cooking oils go rancid, but mixing them with beeswax might be the reason.
Hello Richard, thank yyou for this instructive video!
I have a question about the jaws and the diameter of the tenon:
Which are the dimensions of each or how much is the difference between the diameter of the closed jaws and the tenon?
Thank you, greetings from Germany!
You'll find the dimensions of each Vicmarc chuck on the Vicmarc website. There are lots of jaw sets. The range of movement jaws grip without marking a tenon or foot is about 5mm. ruclips.net/video/DV2T6oJgCi4/видео.html
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you very much for the videolink!
I tried this several times in the past, but often made the tenon a bit to small, so i had to redesign it, because i always wanted to be as close to the jawdiameter as possible, now i go 5mm over it!
@@haraldmayer8113 If you go over the diameter of the jaws, the jaws will mark the tenon or foot. When the foot is slightly smaller, the tenon or foot is gripped by the centre of each jaw.
Wahoo!!
Inclusion of that minor catch is redemption and grace for the rest of us humble mortals
Richard also demonstrates how I should behave myself when something like that happens!
I agree. It gives the rest of us hope 🌞
Hello, I am Italian and confused about what a continental gauge is: a bowl gouge? Sometimes it’s so hard to translate the technical terms. Could you clarify please? Thanks
It's a long and strong shallow gouge, typically called a continental gouge in Britain and North America. These days mostly used as a spindle roughing gouge, but it used to be used for turning bowls as well.
great demo Richard. In Spain old woodturners emploi a lot the continental gouge for dishes. Miguel Lopez, the "spanish Raffan" demostrates in this video a continental gouge but with a asimetric profile as their master was invented. Miguel adds a micro bevel and uses for turning and for scraping with same gouge. Speed improved for production. Has a signature gouges from Crown i think. ruclips.net/video/fji_N06FNWY/видео.htmlsi=fd10G3rQA2go6rwX&t=72
That little catch - it’s almost the only time it ever happens to me nowadays, pulling the tool away from the work. I think my depth perception and ability to focus have both faded with old age. 🥴
Hang on....aren't we always told.... "Don't use a roughing gouge for bowl turning. It's dangerous!" 😱
You're told by people who don't know how much they don't know about turning wood. It’s only deep-fluted spindle-roughing gouges that shouldn’t be used for bowls and other facework.
Deep-fluted spindle-roughing gouges were designed for roughing spindles. They used to be marketed simply as roughing gouges, so novice turners, not unreasonably, used them for roughing bowls and heavy catches often resulted in a broken gouge. That’s where this myth that no spindle gouges should be used for bowls comes from - people using the wrong tool for the job.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning How could I ever doubt you Richard. 😂
I have never used a continental gouge. For penance, I went back to your tutorial from September 2022. Lesson learnt......
Thanks for your patience and support. 'We are not worthy.'
Is this a shot across the bow at all the commenters who pop in here to say you shouldn't be using your 1/2" spindle gouge on bowls?
Misinformation needs challenging.
I’vegot a couple of Ashley Iles continental roughing gouges and have always thought they are far more versatile tools than conventional spindle roughing gouges, albeit easy to make a mess with if you use them incorrectly.
Whilst they are not a bar of steel, the tang is perfectly substantial for face work use, although obviously there’s a blank size at which you'd move to a bowl gouge or spindle equivalent, as Richard always does.