Update: Alternative to the option mentioned in this video: Just poor on the tru oil and then , by holding the headstock at an angle, let is poor off. Then let it dry. Any rough spots can then be fixed by , with a lot of patience, rub a layer on twice a day (2 to 3 drops, raindrop sized. When opening the tru oil bottle for the first time, use a tooth pick to create a hole in the middle of the foil. That way you can poor the tru oil in drops) Every 3 layers, sand it back down gently with a sanding block, grid 320 - 400 Then repeat until all is smooth. I'm working on a les paul now, and will post a video doing it that way, soon 😊
Hey gunslinger, that's great! So those warmoth necks are nice? Guess so.... Maybe one day I'll buy a warmoth kit.... But using coffee filters.... Can't make a picture in my head of how you implement those, Could you elaborate? Really curious how u use that and how that works.... Cheers Bekker
Hey John, I've applied the decals directly on the wood after staining it. In my case hard wood was involved and the decal could be applied without a problem (sticks and no wrinkles). I can imagine that if the wood is a little rough, porous, that the decal would not stick as well, but wouldn't expect it to. If you are in doubt, you can, like you mentioned, apply a couple of layers of tru oil first (enough to create a smooth surface) and apply the decal on top (make sure the tru oil is fully dried (weeks) Then finish the decal with more tru oil and then slowly build it up 1 really thin layer at a time, sanding it back down every 3 layers (800 grid, sanding block) Untill you're satisfied. Cheers Bekker
Nice! I really like the look you achieved in the wood grain. Is the "Bekker" name on the headstock inlaid? I'm curious about the choice for a decal rather than an inlay. Cool video, beautiful work, Floris!
Hi Holly The logo's are decals.... I haven't got any experience with carving inlays. My "F" logo is very pointy so that's very tricky to realise carving an inlay.... Then. You'd have to carve a bigger hole to put the inlay in, then fill the leftover cravices with epoxy resin (mixed with wood sharps) and then sand it down.... So the decal (for a first build) seemed the "easier" way....
I’ve been using Tru Oil on my guitar necks. I’ve been using a cloth, but it leaves tiny dust and strings. Any suggestions on what to rub the Tru Oil with?
Hi David, I use my bare hands. Then rub it in very thin until it dries up under your fingers while exuberanlty massaging and it becomes warm under your fingers. Cleaning my hands : Straight after I take off the remaining tru oil off my fingers with just a sturdy paper cloth covered in soap..... And hot water wrapping the cloth around my finger and then pull my finger out of the wrap.... Repeat for every finger....
Also let it dry for about 4 to 6 hours on a hot summer day (longer in different conditions) then, without pressure, lightly sand down the surface.... With 600 grid or even 800 and repeat for about 30 layers (for a high gloss finish) sanding can also be done every 2 or 3 layers.... Put 2 on sand 1 off, for instance.... But sand lightly.... Otherwise parts of the tru oils comes off like would with your skin..... Those spots are a nuisance to repair....(but can be repaired)
@@davidwalter2282 it's perfectly safe rubbing it in by hand. Been doing it like that for quite some time.... Still got my fingers, lol (there are others too that rub it by hand.....)
It's a bit like touching fresh bark from a tree.... Also tends to get sticky on the fingers when it gets dry.... Just wash your hands right after finishing the rub..... It'll come off quite ok. Don't let it dry (hours) on your hand.... Then it's harder to get it off....
Update:
Alternative to the option mentioned in this video:
Just poor on the tru oil and then , by holding the headstock at an angle, let is poor off.
Then let it dry.
Any rough spots can then be fixed by
, with a lot of patience, rub a layer on twice a day (2 to 3 drops, raindrop sized. When opening the tru oil bottle for the first time, use a tooth pick to create a hole in the middle of the foil. That way you can poor the tru oil in drops)
Every 3 layers, sand it back down gently with a sanding block, grid 320 - 400
Then repeat until all is smooth.
I'm working on a les paul now, and will post a video doing it that way, soon 😊
Great info - very clever .....simple and helpful .....thanks Floris
Clever, was wondering if I was going to have issues with the decal. Was considering spraying diluted TO with Naptha.
I did a Warmoth maple neck with truoil and use paper coffee filters…
It looks great and the neck feels even better…
Hey gunslinger, that's great! So those warmoth necks are nice? Guess so....
Maybe one day I'll buy a warmoth kit....
But using coffee filters....
Can't make a picture in my head of how you implement those,
Could you elaborate?
Really curious how u use that and how that works....
Cheers Bekker
1:06 talking starts
2:45 headstock decal content starts
Can i apply my waterslide decal on rare wood or should I apply tru oil first
Hey John,
I've applied the decals directly on the wood after staining it. In my case hard wood was involved and the decal could be applied without a problem (sticks and no wrinkles).
I can imagine that if the wood is a little rough, porous, that the decal would not stick as well, but wouldn't expect it to.
If you are in doubt, you can, like you mentioned, apply a couple of layers of tru oil first (enough to create a smooth surface) and apply the decal on top (make sure the tru oil is fully dried (weeks)
Then finish the decal with more tru oil and then slowly build it up 1 really thin layer at a time, sanding it back down every 3 layers (800 grid, sanding block)
Untill you're satisfied.
Cheers Bekker
Nice! I really like the look you achieved in the wood grain. Is the "Bekker" name on the headstock inlaid? I'm curious about the choice for a decal rather than an inlay. Cool video, beautiful work, Floris!
Hi Holly
The logo's are decals....
I haven't got any experience with carving inlays.
My "F" logo is very pointy so that's very tricky to realise carving an inlay....
Then. You'd have to carve a bigger hole to put the inlay in, then fill the leftover cravices with epoxy resin (mixed with wood sharps) and then sand it down....
So the decal (for a first build) seemed the "easier" way....
I’ve been using Tru Oil on my guitar necks. I’ve been using a cloth, but it leaves tiny dust and strings. Any suggestions on what to rub the Tru Oil with?
Hi David,
I use my bare hands.
Then rub it in very thin until it dries up under your fingers while exuberanlty massaging and it becomes warm under your fingers.
Cleaning my hands :
Straight after I take off the remaining tru oil off my fingers with just a sturdy paper cloth covered in soap..... And hot water wrapping the cloth around my finger and then pull my finger out of the wrap.... Repeat for every finger....
@@BekkerGuitar I’m afraid to get that on my skin. Is it safe? I wonder if it would work with vinyl gloves?
Also let it dry for about 4 to 6 hours on a hot summer day (longer in different conditions) then, without pressure, lightly sand down the surface.... With 600 grid or even 800 and repeat for about 30 layers (for a high gloss finish) sanding can also be done every 2 or 3 layers.... Put 2 on sand 1 off, for instance.... But sand lightly.... Otherwise parts of the tru oils comes off like would with your skin..... Those spots are a nuisance to repair....(but can be repaired)
@@davidwalter2282 it's perfectly safe rubbing it in by hand. Been doing it like that for quite some time.... Still got my fingers, lol (there are others too that rub it by hand.....)
It's a bit like touching fresh bark from a tree.... Also tends to get sticky on the fingers when it gets dry.... Just wash your hands right after finishing the rub..... It'll come off quite ok. Don't let it dry (hours) on your hand.... Then it's harder to get it off....
Cool trick!!!! Nice intro btw!! Thx 😀