Is 8k Resin worth it for your Resin 3D Printers?
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- Опубликовано: 1 сен 2022
- Is 8k Resin worth it for your Resin 3D Printers? Testing out the new Elegoo 8K Resin on the Elegoo Saturn 2 8K resin 3D Printer
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Thanks for watching!
#3DPrinting #Saturn2 #8K 
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Wish we could see a side by side macro shot comparison with regular resin, 4k resin and this 8k resin to see if they really add that much more detail.
yeah, basically worthless as a review without comparisons...
Yes, definitely. We need comparison..cuz this video is only product showcase witch no reference. Beyond giving us information that this kind of product exists this gives us nothing :(
If you have to go macro to see the difference, does it matter?
That as well as a DPL resin as well. I'm super interested in the Ceramic filler smoothing put lines
@@jod3000 the macro camera is more for the context but you can still see the plateauing on resin prints to the naked eye. He technically just needs to use the zoom lens on his phone to take pseudo macro footage.
Those first 30 seconds really made me feel better about a long resin print I just had fail miserably 😂 thanks for never shying away from showing print errors.
He ran the print with a totally different resin profile loaded into the slicer, intentionally....
I switched resins recently from the Siryatech fast to Elegoo water washable, and found that it was much thicker. I didn't think about it much until my prints were failing every time. I tried to re-level my plate and know it was right, but still wouldn't print right. What I found was the PRINTER itself was not level. When the build plate lifted up, one side of the vat would fill in faster than the other, and caused it to fail. I leveled the printer (without re-leveling the plate) and found that now I get perfect prints. The level of both the plate and the printer make a huge difference.
This makes sense. I had a couple of prints fail, and I thought it was cos the resin level was fairly low. But that makes sense now. I did actually level it out, mainly for OCD reasons, but not one has failed since.
Saturn 2?
@@jordnz yes, Saturn 2. Amazing printer. Can't wait for Jessy's setting to try.
Maybe that’s what I need to do, got the Saturn 2 and levelled how it said, tried printing the rook file and nothing printed. Hopefully this tip as well as Uncle Jessy’s video about the 8k resin I’m using will help fix it
Gravity itself. The final boss.
Without a direct comparison against regular resin, in close up, this advertorial was worth very little.
Shut your mouth you were gonna buy anything anyways
@@MikeHunt-qu6ef You might be cheap, poor and stupid. Not everybody is.
@@matbroomfield go 3d print a friend weirdo, we don’t need your weak critiques in the community. Advertorial go hunt some lizards or play with your boyfriends halfpipe, don’t come at uncle Jessy, you lose that argument everytime.
@@MikeHunt-qu6ef Given the amount of butthurt I'm hearing from you, you're the one on his hands and knees taking it up the rear for Jessy. My critique was ABSOLUTELY reasonable - learn to think rationally rather than leaping like a hormonal girl to defend a man fully capable of speaking up for himself.
Jessy ran the print with a different resin profile loaded into the slicer, do we really expect him to take anything serious at ALL?
Glad I found this video. Been having such a hard time with failed prints on my Saturn 2 I almost give up. Will re-watch tonight, champagne some things up and hopefully I can get to printing
I had the biggest headache with bed adhesion when I first got my Saturn 2. Annoyingly it was due to the leveling card being too thick. Since reading the Facebook groups posts and before Elegoo even acknowledged it I leveled my bed with the vat and haven’t had any issues since
Yeah I think im going to stick with the paper method and avoid the thicker card stock for the time being
Same story here. Vat leveling fixed it.
Me too I used paper and a higher cure time and all seems good
What is the vat?
@@felipecosta3122 Container where you fill the resin
Wow squishy. You’re tips are amazing! I haven’t messed with any settings yet
Based on the title I was thinking in this video you would have the 8K resin vs non 8k resin
U'r always so helpful. & full of knowledge & experience!
This printer is becoming my favorite printer and the resin is fantastic. Reminds of Siraya Tech Navy Gray but slightly thicker. The pigment doesn’t separate when the resin is idle in the vat which is nice compared to Siraya.
Took me a few tries to get my Saturn 2 dialed in. My main issue was adhesion to build plate. I’m printing fully filled plates at 0.05mm without issue now. The biggest key factor ended up being sanding/scuffing the build plate with 120 grit sandpaper. What worked for me in Lychee was to use 35s bottom exposure, 7mm lift, 8s light off delay, and TSMC at 65 and 180mm/m. I’m exposing at 2.3s per layer. Probably could go a little lower but happy with the results and extra insurance on print success. Will eventually try out 0.03mm but printing mostly Cast n Play terrain for now.
Can i use 4k resin in an 8k printer?
@@BabaLoochi yes, not a problem
I've been using 0.05mm on my prints so far with Saturn 2 and 8k resin and it's been amazing for a first timer experience. Ill give a shot to the 0.03mm layers and see for myself!
The way I think about it, you should use the same Z resolution as your XY resolultion. Why would you deliberately want to make one dimension print in less detail than the others?
@@Scribbinge because you can. Depending on orientation the short comings of the other dimensions may not matter but you can get better detail at the lower height and with a different orientation to take advantage of that on some prints.
I had the same exact issue with Elegoo's regular resin being thicker and being super soft and squishy after printing. Then it was causing horrible marring on the parts in the wash tank as they tumbled around. Also check your build plate for being flat. My Saturn 2 showed up with a build plate that was a tiny bit bent.
Sounds like you weren’t fully curing during printing. Been using that stuff almost exclusively for years and its never behaved that way for me.
That intro was beautiful, actually laughed out loud.
haha yeah I was "thrilled" when I came in to see the results of that 13 hour print
Could use a side by side comparison to some of their non 8k resins.
I had the same issues as you and I went the temp route. Using the recommend settings from elegoo and ensure that everything was at a good temp(75-80). Perfect prints ever since. I made a printing cabinet to control heat.
Do you use a hot-water bath (or some other method) to pre-heat your resin?
People have only recently begun to focus on temperature.
Oh thank you. I was wondering about this.
had the same issue when i got my saturn 2. After I set a new zero it was perfect.
Yes!! I've been using one of those blowers for ages for blasting away/drying the alcohol.
Works well for hollow prints for getting any liquids out :-)
I was hoping for a comparison of 2k, 4k, and 8k.
Yeah looking at doing one of those soon as well! Figured it could a fun way to show print comparisons between machines or even on the same machine with different types of resin
Why does Magneto look like Xavier? Been collecting since 1986, never seen a bald Magneto 🤣🤣 Excellent Print, love it.
I would love to see a comparison between 8k resin and Atlas Vulcan resin. I haven't seen too much coverage on it once it actually came out and it seems to share similar properties to the resin in this video so I am curious if it is similar in quality.
Very interesting resin! I wonder what makes it the 8K vs the regular resin?? Looking forward to more resin comparisons!
It has ceramic powder and darker pigment to minimize the light-scatter for taking better advantage of the higher resolution (ie, smaller LCD pixel size).
I don't have an 8k printer but i always print with Siraya Tech Fast and now testing Simple Clear with 1.8 sec layer exposure and always with 40 sec bottom exposure for 6 layers to make sure it sticks properly, i also clean the buildplate after each print with IPA.
merci pour les sous titre trop coll la video !!!!👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏 vivement la suite
Awsome stuff as always! Will you also have the water washable version?
This resin seems to act a lot like Anycubic Tough resin, which is my go-to resin for special prints on the Saturn 2
I've had a few resins treat were really soft like that before curing. If I recall the My Mini Factory resin is like that.
Silly question perhaps but would the darker pigment result in less light bleed giving a potentially sharper look to the finished prints ?
So was the extra print time worth it? Was the lower layer height the true reason it looks good or was it the resin?
ahh super cool to see you scrolling through the FB page and seeing my test prints
Impressive!
Did you do anything to clean up the support marks on the head?
I have found the bottom layers have to be exposed at at least 50s to get good adhesion though my room is cold, I have also used other spray opinion the fep to ensure it doesn't stick to it
Level the Saturn 2 with paper, fixed all my problems. I currently run mine with 180 lift speed and it works great. Also Prime the models and the details will pop even more !
Hi there! Just started with the S2 and yes...fails :-) What paper are you using? Regular A4? And do you compensate as well to " wiggle" the paper out?
Sometimes you need to calibrate for the strength of supports over getting the perfect no bleed calibration.
nice seeing this new info about the 8K printers... did made any plans to check out AnyCubics new DLP line up they just lunched?
that reminds me of my custom siraya mix I do, I add my own pigment from monocure3d so its very dense in pigment and I add blu2 about 12-15% depending on the resin Im mixing with. It comes out just like that stuff the resin is almost rubber-like when its uncured completely, the details are very high, though I find it less brittle when Its fully cured... I have been recently playing around with siraya high detail resins and their navy resin and it is similar to my mix except much more brittle when fully cured.
Hey Jesse, nice video! Will you also look into the new Anycubic D2 vs the Saturn 2 / Phrozen mini 8k?
Regarding the flexibility…are the parts once cured a bit more flexible? Would this be a little safer for small figures with tiny parts sticking up/out and make them less likley to break due to brittleness.
One minor nit to pick - you said to print at a "lower resolution" and then reduced your layer height. Lower layer height is actually higher resolution. Or you could just say "use a lower layer height" and avoid any confusion. Still, good video, and thanks for sharing your experiences with us amateurs!
But what is the difference between this and regular resin? Did you print the same with regular resin and see what the differences were?
I combine both 8k resin and normal resin but I mix it first before putting it on your resin 3d printer
im in the video hahah good stuff Unc!
But isn't the quality just associated also with the pigment? I mean, darker resin such as black has better print quality because you can expose your layers more time without affecting other layers because it blocks the light better, so it ends up having crispier details throughout the full printing process. Couldn't it be that part of the "8k" is coming from it being just darker? Could we see a comparison with the same model between normal grey resin, normal black resin and 8k resin? 🤔
Are you limited to using the 8k resin, or is it possible to use regular resin as well, for a slightly less detailed print?
Elegoo Mars 3 is not a 6K screen. It's 4k.
Can I use regular resin for 8k 3D printer?
Hey Jessy, amazing video as always. As a beginner i would like to ask you about recommendation. Currently i am using creality standard resin plus ( with saturn 2 ), but i have also elegoo 8K resin. Which one from these would you recommend for medium size figures? Thank you in advance.
I’ve just got my two bottles of 8k elegoo resin. What would be a good start point in terms of exposure times and all for Elegoo Mars 3??
What is that orange mat you are working off?
People are saying that light off delay will give time for the resin to "return" after being squished out by the plate. Since this is a thicker resin maybe it's worth trying even on a smaller plate, but on larger plates like the Jupiter's (I haven't tried this yet) I saw a suggestion of 60 sec light off. It's possible a lot of failures that seem to be caused by low exposure or other factors might actually be fixed by this. If you could run test on this it'd be a great video.
Yeah I’m using 8s light off delay with good success.
For 3d printed molds for concrete casting. Is resin better suited than fdm?
what was your exposure time with that resin?
Nice video. I have another resin that is oddly flexible no matter how long you print it for. It is a special HDT clear resin which takes minimal of 16 seconds a layer on m3 max. Anything lower and the print is not stiff enough to print well. The issue I'm having , is since it has such a high cure time, it's curing the resin that is still on the print from being previously submerged. I've even gone as high as 200um to try add more depth between each layer. Any suggestions?
I feel like 8k resin is primarily resin that has stronger color pigments so that when printed, the model looks more defined (and thus, to the naked eye, more detailed). To see whether there is truly any discernable difference, there needs to be a side-by-side comparison of 8k resin vs normal resin where the models are first primed so that details on both can be seen clearly.
This is more or less what it is. There's a reason why most 8k resin are in a darker more pigment dense color and have a shake and mix hard before every print on their label as the pigment is more dense and slightly larger making it separate and fall out of the resin easier. Honestly without looking super close and once I've added a very thin layer of primer not even talking about paint over them I can't even really tell a difference. There's a slight difference but it really isn't that big and personally I don't think it makes up enough for the price difference for the resins maybe if you where printing something for a competition it will be worth it but I honestly think the quality of the sculp and the poly count of said sculp you are printing and then the quality/resolution of the printer make up like 95% of the noticeable print quality then the other 5% might be the jump to 8k resin and you lose most of that with primer and paint let alone if you are move then a few inches away from the mini or model you printed.
You're wrong. The resin is actually far more detailed due to the science behind the polymer itself and how it cures under UV light. It's due to how it expands and contracts.
Can you do a review and comparison of the 8k water washable resin please. Thanks
Mars 3 is a 4K Resin printer thats what mine says it is.
Also, got a commission link for that air blaster thing?
I have yet to get a single fully successful print from the 8k Water Washable resin. Currently testing out a few more tweaks but I'm not sure I'll have much hair to pull out soon.
What air gun was that? It's not linked anywhere that I can see. Would be super handy to have one as well.
@3:40 I suspect the cause of this specific failure was the concave shape of the helmet combined with the increased density and viscosity of the resin increasing the resistance every time it's dunked
Does this stuff settle out like the siraya tech navy gray?
I print most of my bases in filament just to save on resin unless its a really nice detailed base
Can you use the 8k resins on a 4k Anyqubic mono x.
Had a chance to play around with the new Anycubic DLP printer? It's an incredible little device
Been printing 0.04mm layer height, less issues, less exposure time per layer (obviously it evens out.. math is math) but it eliminated pancaking.
What if you use 8k resin on the elgoo 4k
Very COOL! :) What if I want to use this resin on a NONE Elegoo printer? Like an Anycubic MONO X or a MONO 2...?
A good guide for folks trying to fix their failing prints. However for the resin can you please compare this resin with something similarly pigmented like Sirayatech fast navy grey also at 30micron? I think the 8k is a bit of a marketing ploy and this would help put it to bed, really a compatible resin should be about very fine pigmentation particles (small enough to handle the smaller xy resolution) and a deep enough contrast with that dark colouring to nullify any light bleed on the exposure.
I know this is just my personal experience as some random on the internet but honestly the differences are so small even jumping up from a high quality abs, eco, or regular like 4k resin to this is so small that I honestly don't think it's worth the price difference unless you're printing for a painting competition. Once you add primer, paint and take a step or two back from the mini/bust you can't tell the small difference the resin gives. The quality of the poly count for the file you're printing and the resolution of the printer makes a bigger difference.
I find it funny how I have no problem printing with back resin but a lot of difficulty with clear.
Uncle Jesse, what's your set up on anycubic m3 max chitubox settings. Thanks
I can say from using Aqua 8K with my Phrozen Might 8k. I had a very similar early experience.
awesome to hear! thanks for sharing that!
@@UncleJessy I could be imagining things, but I also think I run through the 8K resin much quicker than something thinner, like Siraya Tech Build.
The color and viscosity looks a lot like the Siraya Tech Fast Navy Grey
are you able to reuse the support by melting it back to resin?
No
Do you think you could make a review video of the Phrozen Sonic Mighty 8K? I'd love to see it since I just ordered it and don't see too many videos of the printer around sadly
you should show how to get to the setting, you are showing the setting but I have no idea how to get there, but thanks for the videos.
Does anyone know if he had AA on during this print?
I'm using 8k resin with my Saturn2. At first i tried the settings that were on the bottle and got failed prints. So i went with a 40 second bottom layer exposure time for the first 5 layers. Then i went to 3.5 seconds exposure time. Still using .05 layer height. I getting great results, and its easier to get the prints off the build plate as well as easier to remove the supports.
@UncleJessy Is there a link for the air gun you showed? Can't seem to find it on Amazon.
amzn.to/3TCS9sg will add it to the video description thanks. Looooove this thing
Might be a bit off topic, but would the Phrozen Mighty 8k done better here than the Saturn 2? Is t here any real benefit to shelling out 2-300$ more for that, ignoring the wifi and camera features? This demo by the Saturn 2 didn't really fill me with confidence, i'm currently deciding between the two
Phrozen generally make better printers but no point in asking an Elegoo shill about that.
Uncle! I just got a Saturn 2 and 8k resin. Can I please please have your settings so I can print like you!? First time 3d printer!
I was hoping for the same thing for the Saturn 2 and 8k resin.
@@rekdaknight I have mine up and running no issues so far with 3 tests done. Doing a opr grim dark Cerberus right now. 2.5 seconds exposure, 5 base 31 seconds. All other settings normal. Works like a charm
Hey quick question way off subject. Do you have any suggestions for uv flashlights that work more than a few months, preferably made in the us? I’ve gone thru several and after doing some research all the ones I’ve purchased were Chinese made. None of them last more than 5 months, and I’m tired of spending money on these cheap pieces of junk. And not to say a US made one would be better, I just havnt been able to get a hold of any as of yet. I use the light to file drain holes and using my anycubic cure station just takes way too long and the resin doesn’t actually fill the hole due to gravity. Takes several attempts and just makes filling unbearable. I looked thru your videos hoping to see a review or something and the only thing I came across was the video about adding for printing, light in the metal bucket for large prints. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Man, I see some gray and black box in the preview with 3 different colors on the screen. What is it ?
Any chance of a 4k test?
Not in this video. I will be looking at doing a followup comparing multiple resins on a number of machines to see if there is any real visible difference
So, continuing the planet theme, when is Uranus coming out? LOL! And are they going to release the Pluto, then take it back?
light off and temperature is how you fix really thick resin
Good afternoon, can anyone answer what websites they would recommend in buying stl files? I know of printables and thingaverse. Is there any others folks could recommend?? Free or purchase
when im using monocure 3d resin it looks like this every time ....
I need that rainbow pla.. o.O. noo you didn't list it -cries- my Neptune arrived yesterday
30sec bot exposure gets very good results
Dear Uncle,
Please can you try elegoo 8k resin water washable
Cheers Alex
I gotta admit, watching a review about a product, when it was sponsored by the same company makes me feel like any bad feedback would be cut from the
Great video as always! I'd love to see a range of wargaming miniatures with the 8k resin please 😁
⚠Guys please, I have a very serious problem with the chitubox supports. Can anyone provide me with the best configuration so that I can copy it? Thanks to those who will help me.
I am still baffled that resin 3d printers cant do something like .05-,07 layers for the first 3-5 mm, then higher resolution for the actual miniature. There is a lot of room to improve on resin 3d printing. You could even have the supports over cure to increase support adhesion to the model but still have less exposure for the mini to increase detail
Along with others, I’m really disappointed there weren’t any macro shots comparing the results from the resins. Without that, this review really isn’t useful to me :-/
2 seconds a layer at 0.03 height?! where are you, the antarctic?!
I really like your videos but I’m a little disappointed that there were no comparisons or value discussion for a “worth it” /comparison video as the title suggests. I kept watching waiting for the comparison until the end when we were left with “this print looks great!” Perhaps a title like “8K resin print” or “New Elgoo resin showcase” would have been a better choice and more representative of your sponsored video.
As always however I look forward to your next video!
Should have linked the skeleton print 😥😂
In short....no. Doesn't make any difference to the naked eye.
Yeah, will be doing a followup to compare. Pretty much everything I've thrown down on the Saturn 2 looks awesome but would be interesting to see if there is any major difference between the resinsprint quality
@@UncleJessy I used it and got down to .02 layer height. It took a bit to adjust but I thought it would be worth it. Turns out there was no real difference. Just longer print times and more fails.
Comparing a printer with a 28 microns pixel size with another that has 35 microns is not that helpful I suppose.
I really wonder why producers label their resins with resolution instead of pixel size. A Jupiter with a 6k resolution results in 51 microns while, as mentioned, the Mars has 35 microns at the same resolution.