5 speed transmission rebuild part 1- Inner primary race disaster & gear cluster removal

part 1 of this video series is about the steps involved in removing the gear cluster from the transmission case.
tool links below
www.amazon.com/Mainshaft-Spro... www.amazon.com/MBS-Mfg-Transm... www.amazon.com/Jims-Pulley-Lo...

[@-MrRichBiker1967]

Brother Joe, that inner primay race, was installed correctly. It just walked in!!

[@joekachman4590]

for anyone taking the inner race off, don't replace it with a new one. Do a sealed bearing conversion to the inner primary which eliminates the need for the inner race and makes it way more reliable. Jims, All balls, Baker, & drag specialties all sell the kit.

[@getoffmygrass6974]

This is great. I have a 2002 Night Train that I built, 95" pushing 100/100 and at the time put a Ultima 3" open belt drive. This required removing the main shaft race which of coursed walked back on the shaft. I used a Dremel with small cutting wheel, didn't need to go all the way through, hit it with a cold chisel and it broke free with no damage. However, the dry clutch and loss of compensator really thrashes on the transmission, developed small leak in quad seal and main shaft seal. Coming up on 58k on the transmission and thinking of doing a rebuild this winter. I put my wet primary back on about 10k miles ago as I wasn't confident in the Ultima product. Sounded and looked great but I had to deburr and dremel some pieces from the factory and almost all the threaded holes for my support plate were garbage, none the less, cleaned it up and installed. Being as I ride everyday and as much through the winter months that I can here in New England, I'm not sure an OBP is great for an everyday rider or at least I need to spend more than $1,500.00 on a BDL or Rivera Primo but IDK, those are ridiculously expensive, which I wouldn't mind if they are going to last without having to replace seals every 20k miles. I also bought the bike with 32k and when I opened my cam chest for the very first time, my front chain tensioner fell out in pieces, metal arms and all, with chunks of orange shoe. I never split the cases and built up to stage 4, almost 28k and 3 years later, still good finger's crossed.
Sorry about the short story, just figured I throw some shop talk out there and absorb any knowledge I can as this will be my first tranny rebuild. It's going to be a lot easier than my crotch rockets or Buell, that's for damn sure! lol.I hope...
Thanks for the tutorial

[@badsanta518]

Great video. One thing - that 2 piece inner primary bearing is known to walk itself inward (the inner race anyway). I would guess it was properly installed and just moved over time. A lot of times, they walk far enough to cause a leak there.

[@norsemencustomcycles7289]

Thanks for sharing! I will be sure to mention that in part 3 of the video.

[@-MrRichBiker1967]

yes, happen to me, i put the 1 piece bearing, love it...no more walking!! and this bearing is much more durable than stock!!!!!!!!!!!

[@glennheller488]

I've heard you can loosen the main shaft lock nut and tap it in with a mallet to make room for the race tool to be used.

[@milomanx6531]

I hear of races walking back, but, the question is why! Don't assume it was installed incorrectly. Is it because of a bent main shaft, clutch abuse or high RPM?

[@milomanx6531]

You did not have to grind it off! All you had to do was loosen or remove the main shaft nut on the right side and push the shaft to the clutch side. It will move about 3/8" Then the tool will fit!

[@jmo2215]

Great video. I am currently doing the similar kind of work on my '03 Road King. For the most what you cover in this video is not much different from my engine.

[@norsemencustomcycles7289]

Thank you! Should be identical as far as transmission is concerned.

[@victoryoung9178]

Shiny golden god 🥰 thanks so much