You have a bait runner drag system that allows control of the freespool facility to allow you 'set' how easily a fish can take line - you can have the 'baitrunner' fairly well locked up if you wanted to. The issue I have with quick drag reels is you have less adjustability to set the drag perfectly. I've seen people grab their rod and give the drag dial a turn then can't give any line to a fish because it's locked up. Then they're constantly trying to fiddle with the drag to adjust it while playing a fish. I've seen fish lost like that. With a bait runner, set the separate drag to how you want a fish to be able to take line. When you get a take all you have to do is turn the reel handle which disengages the bait runner/freespool and leaves you playing the fish on a perfectly pre set drag. I do play fish of the clutch as sometimes when you have a fish close in there's no way your keeping up with them by back winding when they set off. Just my opinion but for me a reel with 2 separate highly adjustable drag systems is a better choice than a reel with one drag that has less range of adjustability. As for weight it's not a concern for me as the rods are on the rests for 99% of the time. For stalking/floater fishing I just use smaller baitrunners - just in case I have to take my attention away from the rods I flip the bait runner on as a safety measure. Same for the Barbel fishing.
Totally agree with you..I swear by bait runners.. I have big pits that are bait runners.. I set my main drag FIRST then set the runner in exactly the same way as Matt here, depending on situation... If I'm 15 wraps or more I'll set the main drag fairly loose.. then in transition the fish can still take line and I fine adjust from there.. I think Matt wasn't using them properly imo..
I'm in the process of upscaling my pike fishing reels since I bought a baitboat to get out further (on big irish waters) and my Shimano 10000XTEs are running out of line ! I've been mulling over this exact question and my feeling is the same as yours, 2 infinitely-variable clutches are always gonna be always better than 1... I'm leaning towards those big Ultegra 14000s he showed, spendy but , at 65y.o. , they'll see me out... 🙄😂 Thanks for helping me focus on the pros & cons of both... 😎👍☘️🍺
Hello Matt. My name is Jorge. I am from Brazil. I loved getting to know his work and this wonderful modality of carp fishing, which has inspired me a lot. The didactics of his videos on how to choose equipment, assemble systems, types of rigs, baits, etc... All this brought me concepts that I began to adapt to the reality here in our region, mainly for fishing for curimba (Prochilodus lineatus), a fish endemic to my region, whose characteristics are identical to those of carp. The footage, the places where you fish are wonderful. Another factor that makes me love watching your videos is how nice it is to understand your English pronunciation, considering that I'm learning the language. For all that, thank you for your beautiful work, Matt. Success for you!
Hello Jorge 🇧🇷 How wonderful to hear your story and thank you for sharing it. It’s fantastic to know that my videos can help you in your fishing for curimba. I don’t know this fish so I had to google it! I wish you lots of success in your fishing and thank you for watching. Matt
I’ve used Shimano Baitrunners for 35 years & never had a single problem.. When you switch the facility off it sends the hook home? And nowadays the xtb 14000 have quick front drags so you’ve got the best of both worlds fella 👍🏻
Yeah old shimano are amazing but you buy new ones they are rubbish had the ultegra xtd poo the xte new all aluminium construction like the ci4 nothing like the old ones will never buy shimano again
Matt, as always very informative video. As many below have stated, I too bought a set of QD reels. Love them. I still have my bait runners on a set of rods and use them as well. At this, and after a fortune spent on fishing gear; I have decided enough spending money on gear so, I use the rods n reels I have and until they fall apart. At that point I’ll buy another set of QDs. Tight Lines mate.
Thank you Matt’ another great informative video for me, as I am a born again Angler, in my younger years I spent as a youth to young adult River & Canal fishing spent a lot of years absent from the angling scene And now as a much older adult have found new ground in carp fishing and over the last few years have been enjoying it. I gotta say that Matt Collins is my definite go to for up to date info. Thanks again👍
I use Mitchell and Okuma Baitfeeder reels. Fighting drag on the spool. Never had a problem. Had Shimano GTE's for years. No problems. Just set your fighting drag correctly. Both types are excellent.
Hi matt hope your well, I'm doing a 72 hour session in the UK @ berners hall Fishery in Essex, just had my PB a 43 lb mirror on your blow back multi rig, fu**ING awesome I'm over the moon thank you for passing on your knowledge means alot. All the best speak soon Dan. 😎
The biggest reason for losing fish on a baitrunner is because of not setting your fighting drag correctly. Also when you pick up the rod on a full out run, use your finger on the spool and switch when the carp slows down, or changes direction.
Hi, I really enjoy your videos and find them very helpful, but a little bit of feedback on this particular one....the drag setting on the back of the Shimano Baitrunners I use allows you to adjust the tension much like you do with a front drag reel. Also, I and my fishing companions have never lost a fish when turning off the bait runner setting.....if at all it probably helps set the hook even better? Baitrunners are fantastic reels as are front drag, and if new to carp fishing please don't be discouraged from purchasing a baitrunner style reel based on this video. Love your great videos, just felt compelled to comment on this one based on differing opinion 👍
So I use bait runners but I have my main drag fairly loose. it means when i disengage freespool its an increased resistance but not a huge jump. I can then finger the spool increase resistance and fine tune the drag on the fly
Way back when I used to use bait runners I used to slow the spool down with my finger before I turned the handle. I now use the older ci4 xsb reels with my 12 and 13ft rods and would not switch them..
Good video, my biggest issue is the very fact that you can go from 0 to 100% in a half turn greatly reduces the ability to fine tune the resistance, particularly if you are pre-occupied with the ongoing battle with a big girl...a quick twist &you can overshoot the resistance... The 2 baitrunner clutches are infinitely variable and if you use a rod line clip, you effectively have THREE drag systems... being irish, I don't fish for carp as we don't have them apart from a very few commercials, my long distance angling is for pike, dropping the baits out with a baitboat, ... so my reel choice is based on that. Presently, I'm using 10000XTE reels. On a windy day, I can use the line clip to stop the wind/waves pulling the line from the open bail arm setting and the baitrunner drag is set to freespool whilst the main drag is tested by hand before fishing... reel-weight is an issue only if you are getting bites every half hour and constantly casting back out... I'm considering those big Ultegras at the moment as my 10000XTEs are running out of line at distance... Thanks for the vid, mate & tight lines ! 😎👍☘️🍺
I use Shimano baitrunners from the very beginning in the 1980's. I have a set of the 3500, the 4500 and even the 6500 for my trips to Cassein. Ofcourse I still have them and they are still in mint condition. Only disadvantage of baitrunners is the baitrunner system twists the line. After a weekend with a lot of runs you must untwist the line otherwise you will have massive problems. Greetings and tight lines 🎣 from the Čzech Republic 🇨🇿.
Great video full of good advice. I fish similarly for tench. I tried a bait runner, but never got on with it, the sudden change in the tension always felt uncomfortable. Now fishing with "mini big pit" reels and keeping the drag quite tight I am getting better contact with the tench and stopping them getting in thick weeds. Thanks for the advice :)
Good video! I think it comes down to preference. I'm back to carp fishing again and I miss my baitrunner setup which is in different country. I think it's the time and fiddling. Could probably compare it to when lure fishing with spinning reels and casting reels.
I've been carp fishing on and off for 35 years and switched between the two types of reels and I still prefure baitrunners as there more versatile, you can fish them locked up , baitrunner on low drag so line comes of easy ( perfect for running leads ) baitrunner on tight if your fishing open water . Also if you set the front dragg correctly so your in playing mode as soon as you get a take your instantly in playing mode by one turn of a handle with big pit reels your constantly fiddling with the front drag . Casting is not a problem with baitrunners as on a 7000 size baitrunner I can hit 90 yards easy and if you go for a reel like the okuma ls6k it's a bsitrunner but design for long range casting.
everytime i make up my mind about something to do with fishing you make a video of it confirming i made the right choice. barbless hooks, inline leads and now fast drag reels. finally a fisherman using his brain and not listening to the masses.
Great film, I started with baitrunners, never thought I would change but love my Daiwa QD reels no hassle One click it tightens up and smooth as. I never fancied a front drag but they are far superior in every way
@@matthewcollinsangler yeah I feel the same way. I really enjoy your RUclips content mate, learnt a lot from you really to say I’ve been angling for 44years lol I really enjoyed how you drained your lake down and the maintenance you carried out loved them films. What is the lake called please
Thanks very much mate for the support, means a lot. I really enjoy sharing my knowledge of this little fishing paradise. The lake is called Beausoleil Carp and Cats, here's the website if you want to have a look: www.frenchcarpandcats.com
Fishing a very snaggy Australian rivers: I have just switched to a QD reels. Clutch have to be set very tight as even a few seconds of a free run often means a lost fish - no point using the free spool option.
@@aarondavies8486 How often does a Shimano baitrunner "go wrong" ?? Myself & several of my mates have been using these reels for specimen pike angling for 20+ years now and none of us has ever seen a Shimano reel fail... 🤔
@peterfitzpatrick7032 you had non of the new ones yeah anything befor 2018 was built like a tank I had the xtd 5500 ultegra they failed twice they skimped out on baring in some parts of the reel jist had ptfe bushings not bearing then had the new xte shimanos all ali construction and they started to grind after 8 months so sold them now have the full carbon fibre okuma obsidian better than any reel up to 500 quid and they only 180 to buy ill never by shimanos again should of never sold my old ci4s
The only problem when switching from a bait runner to a fast drag is the first few times you forget you’ve gone over to a quick drag when winding into the fish. I wouldn’t go back to runner reels now though. My 5500 carbon 14 reels are perfect for my 9ft set up.
The Korda underwater videos have shown though that a fish will pick up a bait, feel resistance, drop it, bugger off elsewhere all without you getting anything more than a single beep - and thats if you are lucky. I dont use baitrunners for carp, but I know I catch more on my 4000 size baitrunners fishing for coarse fish when using free running rigs and the free spool function engaged.
Baitrunner is the best system of drag adjustment. For this reason, because Shimano discontinued to do the performance reels with baitrunner, lost front of Daiwa many, many fans.
i recently got a set of 3.5 lb daiwa longbow carp rods with some quick drag reels... at least for carp i'm never going back to baitrunner reels... however i still think a baitrunner reel is great for pike fishing
Yes, that works. You can also try setting the BR much tighter in the first place so that there’s less difference between the BR and the playing setting so it’s less of a ‘jump’ between the two.
I'm always on a very tight budget, and only relatively recently realised that an entry level standard reel is better quality than an entry level baitrunner. Also, I really like a very light rod and reel, and 8 foot rods especially.
I wouldn't mind seeing a video on drag v backwind. I always seem to swap halfway through playing a fish and I still don't really know why I do it. It seems to be a gut reaction.
Don't need to back wind no more its just habit for some people now days as drags weren't reliable 20 years back but tech has moved on now that drags can be reliable now that's all it is
To me using a quick drag feels like riding and shifting a 3 speed bicycle while I'm used to a more supple 7 gear. I'm missing every position inbetween 😉 ! ..So when I bought quick drag big pits some years ago I immediately noticed the lack of sensitivity and moved 'em on to a marker and a spod rod. That's what quick drag reels are good for. Ps I even tried teflon drag rings but it didn't make it any better.
Modern bait runners are miles smaller, but am slowly moving off the bait runner function. But i do like still havin that funtion especially for cat fishing
Hi mate, we’ve got cats to 135lbs in my lake, most anglers fish with boilies over pellets with an upscale carp rig (ruclips.net/video/NkOZfsGNmbk/видео.html), a running lead and a semi tight clutch which hooks the cat automatically when it picks up the rig. Anglers don’t use the baitrunner function at all, they don’t have the clutch power required to land these fish. Might be a different approach to what other catfishing anglers know, but it works a treat!
Having used budget Okuma BR's for decades with only one ever failing (at that was the baitrunner clutch) I use them as both front drag only or with the full BR feature..... depending on situation and application!
Switched from Shimano to Okuma 15 years ago. Never had any problems with the Okuma Epix V2. Still going strong. Will last another 15 years. And this is alot of carp later. (A lot ofcatfish too)
Quite happy with my baitrunners which are still in use after 30+ years. I cannot think of a time when a lose can be put down to "the transition" as suggested. Could one of the reasons be; using tip action "broomsticks" , designed to be fished further than most people actually do, not absorbing/cushioning the "transition"??
Been fishing for 40 years always used bait runners but finally made the switch to quick drag reels ( nash scope gt6000 ) nice compact reels , with powerfull cluch ,it was the fold away handle that did it for me . Great info again matt
I've been using Shimano Bait runners for donkeys years and infact I've just treated myself to another set of St RB 10000s. I've had absolutely no problem with 'Bumping off'. Maybe your reel has a problem with the free runner tension because mine can lock right up with just half a turn of the bait runner knob.
Hey Matt, i really needed this video. what are the chances? after decades of fishing with my Shimano Baitrunner XT6000RA reels, 2 days ago i came to the same thing as you and i bought myself a pair of QD reels. im sitting here waiting for them to arrive and im soaking your words in as this will be a big change in playing fish but i can confirm, i do loose fish straight after hooking them from time to time. so thank you for taking the time to make this video.
That’s great to hear! QD reels are different for sure and there may be an adjustment period but it’s totally worthwhile. Just adjust your clutch tight enough so that your rod doesn’t go in but loose enough to pay line if you get a savage take. I’m sure you’ll get the hang of it in no time. Enjoy!
Im not convinced on the fish being bumped off thing. If you're fishing mono, which carp anglers should be, then the stretch in the line would stop any sudden change in tension .....and if the fish comes off, then it was unlikely hooked well in the first place and the chances of landing it would be minimal.
Originally big pit reels were sea fishing reels, most reels nowadays the only difference between bait runners and fixed spools is the weight,both types can fail on free spool ,my old T5000s used to weight a ton compared to my Mags, and I've never lost a fish due to reels, compared to hook pulls on stiffer test curves rod's.
Hi. I struggle to understand why the wait of the real is a big concern when I cast a carp rod so infrequently. When I am lure fishing yes the weight of the real is a big concern. I can be making 1000s of cast a day and a heavy real will kill your arm and wrist. When carp fishing I make a cast every few hrs so the weight of the real is much less of a concern over the strength of the real. I am using the Shimano 6000oc 8000oc and 12000D fishing in thailand for the Siamese carp. I normally use the bait runner and like to know that I can have 2 pre set drags that I can set without the adrenaline pumping. If I use a non baitrunner real I can get a little carried away in the heat of the moment and end up adjusting the drag down hard and end up pulling the hook. Having that 2nd drag set before hand when my heart isn’t racing is a god send. For the Mekong catfish I won’t use a baitrunner. Stick to a standard spinning big pit real with an aluminum body. The real needs to be strong for the Mekong catfish. They just don’t know when to quit. I did buy a penn baitrunner recently. All aluminum and a touch heavier than the Shimano but I am liking it a lot. Time will tell on it’s overall strength but very nice to play a fish. No flex in the real body, feels very solid.
Great video, thank you. Diawa Emcast Baitrunner LT 5000-C or the Shimano Baitrunner OC 6000? Which one would you pick? The Shimano is approx. $70.00 more
Having fished for >25yrs on gte's, xtea's and LC's i'm still a big fan of the baitrunner system. The huge difference in settings can easily be overcome by dialing in a less aggressive transition. Although i have to admit i don't see a lot of people paying attention to it. Weight is also a non issue for me because the rods are on the rests 95% of the time anyway. That said...when it comes to casting, there can only be one winner and it def isn't the baitrunner. And, while i never had any problems with my br's, the QD reels have fewer parts, so there's less that can go wrong while being more affordable as well...so yeah, there's a lot to be said for QD.
The only reason the old baitrunners design isn’t good for casting is the spool size but the LC baitrunners solved that. They are still the reel of choice for the worlds monster fish in Thailand. Baitrunners could be made using lighter components with the biggest of spools but they would be costly. Yet again bullshit opinion here about the “bump off” caused by transition from baitrunner to main drag and the fish going all over the place on the baitrunner drag. That is entirely dependent on your settings. How many years were you a none angler before you returned to it? I never stopped using them all over 50 years starting with Mitchell 300s which only had a front spool drag then, we have come full circle. Spool size and line lay for casting is a completely different thing to the line drag system. I still use the older baitrunner system reels for small water fishing and never bump fish in “transition” as you call it. I rarely have the baitrunner set so slack the “fish can go all over the place” that’s bad angling, I don’t want the rod towed in either. I only ever use the lighter baitrunner settings when I don’t want a bait dropped cat fishing or pike fishing. For U.K. carping the baitrunner setting depends on the application. If fishing tight to snags locked up I either have the baitrunner at a maximum setting or only then I do have that off completely using instead the tighter main clutch. The big runner LC is so different because you have fine adjustment on the baitrunner but it was the first to switch the main drag to be operated within the body of the spool by the friction of washers, just like the rest of the front quick drag only reels. Put carbon washers in a big old Long Cast they are super smooth playing the fish on the drag…hence their application for 400lb Mekong catfish! The smaller baitrunners brake the spin of the central spool pin with two separate systems, one the forward ring for the baitrunner, the rear nob the main playing drag. The biggest benefit was the rear drag knob is so easy to get at when playing a fish. The trick to avoid that transition bump off, sorry but clearly you never learnt to fish them right. When you do so there is no rapid change in tension. Those you say you see bumping off “ because of” the rear baitrunner may be partly true, partly assumption. Either way it was because they never learnt to use them properly either. I never bump off in “ transition” hooking big Arapaima and the like with the boniest hardest to hook jaws there are, using my Long Casts. And that’s even when you darent put fingers near a spool for fear of an instant blister, such is their speed. So my friends what is the trick with the old rear drag baitrunner system?…simple. You don’t in normal swims ever set the baitrunner ultra slack, resistance helps set the hook and stops the fish going “all over the place”. Most importantly, if the baitrunner is giving reasonable resistance anyway you don’t need to turn the handle or flick the switch to change to the playing drag straight away. Instead when you pick up the reel one hand goes on the spool. Especially if fishing mono at distance where there is stretch, the spool should not be rotating so fast as to blister. Especially the bigger carp rarely move that fast. Raise the rod to a 45 degrees fighting angle then the initial run will slow to a stop at which point you can disengage the baitrunner with your thumb or turn the reel handle to engage the main clutch setting. Because your hand is around the spool at that point that switch puts no sharp jump in pressure down the line whatsoever. You can adjust the spool spin below with hand pressure until the run slows and you can flick the switch bump free. Once you are practiced at doing this it becomes second nature. Indeed I still do this for European carp even using quick drag type spools at the start of the fight because it’s quicker than messing twiddling with the front drag setting until the fish has calmed down and you know what you are into. If you ever have bump transmitted to the line from a rear baitrunner system you just aren’t doing in right, simple as. And you should always have your main drag set at a lighter setting at the start of the fight too. At the end of landing every fish, the mistake most make is not resetting their main back drag lighter for the initial part of the next fight. Once you have the baitrunner drag set right it can stay there, not so the fighting drag. And even if you did it all wrong any line “ bump” in reality depends on how and where you are fishing. It would mostly be a risk fishing a rear baitrunner with braid close in. Far less impactful if fishing at distance with mono where even the fastest short pull at the reel end would barely be felt at all at the rig end of the line through all the mono stretch.
Absolutely spot on. I think someone had more years away from angling than they care to admit. Baitrunners are still the reel of choice for the fastest takes on the planet fishing with monstrous fish in Thailand and with good reason. The big change with the Long Casts and the Oceanics we now use is that the main drag is now separate within the main spool assembly, just like with quick drag reels. And with carbon washers included those playing drags are ultra smooth minimising the risk of the hook bumping out of what is often a bony mouth anyway. Most of my fishing is still done using baitrunners and I wouldn’t be doing that if was was losing fish bumping off at the moment I clicked off the baitrunner. My Basia reels don’t have one but are single purpose big long spool casting machines so I don’t need one there. But to dismiss a whole category of reel type based on personal bias, misconception and frankly bad fishing practice has to be challenged. 55 years of regular fishing experience without having a break and coming back I have actually been through reel development from the beginning, used them all, and used to learn to use the different types to best advantage. Funnily enough you learn a thing or two after that many rod hours, including how many don’t know quite as much as they profess to do.😂
@@jamesrussel1133 Hi James, very interesting to read. Thanks for sharing your knowledge from your vast experience and giving plenty of pointers for baitrunner users. These were only my thoughts and experiences based on my 22 years of carp fishing and 12 years as fishery owner. I certainly haven’t tried and used as many reels as you have. Thanks again for sharing. Regards, Matt
400lb of carp in 6 hours ranging from 3 to 15lb I personally need a bait runner, especially when freelining close in... there just isn't time to do anything beyond click off the runner, at this point you don't know if it's a bigger fish or a farty angry little one, again I personaly don't have time to be guessing where the drag is set too because it needs to be 'there' now.(there's another plus to the runner, let's the fish bolt out of your swim so there's no need to be getting locked onto the fish right over your bait and respreading the carp). But, here's the stinger the odd cat comes into play, on 6lb mainline 4 to 5lb hooklength the cat comes in so far there powers up and smash's you instantly....as does the odd carp, so that front clutch once set stays there religiously lol....(it can be a faff setting that light when playing and getting the clutch clicking all the while but you land 99 percent of everything.) Narr then, upping to 15 plus pound line and fishing hundred yards out I've no problems with quick drag but I'm only a few months into using quick drag. (it's funny how things change with more experience lol) Something to note with bait runners, the free spool needs to be set right too, or you bum a lot of fish, but to heavy and you can loose fish that way as well and loose a rod or too lol. All said and done, everything in it's place at the right time lol. 20lb plus fishing just doesn't fish the same.
Hi Paul, depends what you’re doing… I used to do all my fishing with 12ft rods but swapped to 9ft retractables 3 years ago and I absolutely love them. I only use the 12ft when fishing large lakes. The 9ft 3lb Nash Dwarfs are great little rods, fantastic value for money. I also have a set of the Nash Scopes 9ft 3lb, really nice with a premium look and feel. 2 good options in my opinion. The Nash X series is worth a look for conventional 2-piece rods that won’t break the bank. Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt
Thanks for your comments. Very helpful. I like the Nash BP reels but not used them a lot to find where the faults are plus it seems that Nash has now discontinued them. Have Scope 10' 3lb rods but selling them as found them too stiff and not pleasurable to fight fish on. Switching to Sonik Xtractor 9' 3lb. Hopefully the carp won't complain. @@matthewcollinsangler
Trying to be kind.....but isn't this a bit of a red herring. I've used QD's and baitrunners. I will be sticking with my Shimano baitrunners. I've never bumped a fish at the point of transitioning from free spool to main drag. Usually its at a different point in the fight. I've had big cats on my Shimano baitrunners and trust the drag. Even my mini-pits have handled have handled Cats fine. I don't like backwinding because I've not got big hands. If you can't get a decent amount of your finger tips around the bail arm for a good grip it's a recipe for getting your finger tips smashed up if you fingers slip. Anyway why buy a reel whose drag you don't trust. You know you can adjust the baitrunners freespool drag? In fact you showed us. You can give a bit of resistance on the take even in baitrunner mode. So each rod can set with a different initial resistance. In fact I would always recommend a little bit of resistance even in freespool as it prevents any line over run on a take. I think your hook pulls on the transition between freespool and main drag is because your using running rigs. If you use a semi-fixed or bolt rig then the weight of the lead sets the hook. With running rigs it's more down to line tension as the lead offers no resistance. You have recently been expousing the benefits of running rigs I've notice. I've done the opposite. I spent years using running rigs. I then switched to a sort of semi-fixed setup and feel my hook up rate got better. I've always felt that you often don't get a deep intial hook set on running rigs and any slack in the line, for example when you pick your rod and start turning the reel may just give enough drop in pressure to allow the hook to pop out. A running lead skidding across bottom may not provide a solid pivot or anchor point to maintain tension either. Your switch to QD reels probably means that your line tension to the hook is now on average somewhat higher and helps drive the hook in. That's not a fault with baitrunners. You could achieve the same result by tightening your freespool tension so it offers more resistance on the take. I think the real lesson is that if your using running rigs then you need to offer a moderate amount of line tension to help set the hook. From experiance, using a big lead on your run ring or getting it to plug into the bottom so that does not slide across the bottom also helps.
No issue with bait runner reel engagement with Mono line. The Elasticity of Mono absorbs the energy. This is a problem with braided fishing lines and why I choose Mono over Braid.
Why are the switches backwards on those STs?! I have X-Aero 4000 and the baitrunner is engaged with the lever pulled away from the reel. That’s so dumb.
Matt I know how experienced and keen you are about fish safety especially having your own lake, just wondered what your view is on the omc magic stick ! I know it’s hard to say when you haven’t seen it in the flesh but just your general opinion on first glance if you’ve seen it mate 👍
My initial reaction is that it’s a problem that doesn't need solving. I already have an auto-strike system: two solid bank sticks, a semi tight clutch and a running lead. The elasticity of the mono and the tightness of the clutch do the hooking of the carp for me before I even get to the rod and the bites are phenomenal. As an angler, this new system is not something that’s going to help in my fishing. As a fishery owner, I have concerns around safety and I’m following the on-going conversations among lake owners and the feedback from OMC.
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks for your reply matt. My concern is that if it is as affective as he says then the fish don’t stand a chance and will be hammered relentlessly especially how busy most lakes are these days surely it would affect the life span of fish being stressed and relentlessly caught. It just doesn’t seem fair game to me 👍
Hi Dave, OK, tough challenge! I can’t do just one piece of advice on this lol So here you go: 1. Change your hook every cast 2. Basic mono rigs 3. Running lead 4. Find the fish and lob a single at them 😊
Hi Matt.if you started to fish a tricky venue and wasn't sure about what hookbait to use would u use a bait u was confident in or find out what the regulars was using ?regards David 👍
@@daveshaw5293 Hi David, I don’t worry about bait at all when I go to a new venue. I have total confidence in the bait I use. When I go to a new venue, I focus on features, nature of the lakebed, where the fish are. I don’t worry about what other anglers are using. My bait of choice is Scopex Squid because it’s nutritious (high in protein) and effective.
Get your settings right and a baitrunner is by far the best carp reel ! I use Shimano big baitrunner ci4 paired with Harrison Torrix 13ft 3.25 tc No weight issues what so ever never bump fish and I can chuck 48 wraps with a 4oz . Ive been carp fishing for 42 years and have tried pretty much every set up there is . Inc Basia's , Tec Mags , none compare to my current set up
Opinions on Ali Hamidis new death rig ( magic stick ) it was also found at a lake called prunet by some people that fished it 2 weeks after Ali did it would found with about 100m of mainline lead fully on not ejected or anything Ali Hamidi reached out to them as it was a prototype and not launched yet. Sorry for the long comment just don't think he should have his own brand that new anglers could look up to !
Hi mate, I am also worried about the length of line that would be left behind in case of mainline failure. I, and others, shared our safety concerns with Ali directly during a call he had with lake owners this week. For me, Ali didn’t address any of the safety concerns raised, other than to say we’ve tested it and caught hundreds of carp with zero issues. As an angler, this is not something that’s solving a problem in my fishing. I already have an ‘auto-strike’ system: two solid bank sticks, a semi tight clutch and a running lead. As a fishing coach, I advocate simple rigs and simple techniques. This is adding complexity to a rig and it’s another piece of tackle added near a carp’s head. As a lake owner, there are too many safety concerns on different levels.
@@matthewcollinsangler couldn't have worded it any better matt. I agree with u on every point I've been using the shock and run set up you have a video about . Even tho I've never been snapped off in case of a failure which is rare for me as I check each knot I do I know that fish along with me using barbless will not trail and lead and what not. Fish safety comes first for me the longer that fish is staying healthy the bigger it's gonna grow
Hi, I have a question about this video and another recent video. In this video you say that you use a semi thight clutch instead of free spool most of the time. In one of your other videos you're also advocating that the running rig setup is almost your setup to go. Isn't this a bit in contrast? I mean, the running needs free line right? Thanks for all the videos and insights!
Hi there, I can see why you might think it’s a contradiction… Running rigs are most effective when used with a semi tight clutch. I’m using the clutch and the elasticity of the mono to hook the fish. The running rig allows the lead to separate from the rig so that the carp can’t use the weight of the lead to throw the rig (this happens with a semi fixed setup / lead clip). I’ve used this method for 15 years and it’s extremely effective. If you use a running rig with a slack clutch, you won’t hook the carp and they can be gone by the time you get to the rod. Hope that helps 😊
Hi Mathew , after 20 years away from carp fishing ,I'm now looking to start back at it. Your channel is a fantastic place for information but i must admit the variety in line, weights, hooks ect, ect, is starting to get very confusing. Every time I go online to buy terminal tackle, I get lost with types and manufacturers ect and leave it for another day ! Any advice please ? Keep the videos coming !
Hi Jack, glad you’ve found our channel and are enjoying it. What a great question! I totally get where you’re coming from, I had exactly the same experience when I got back into fishing. I’m going to try and make it simple 😊 1. Choose a mainline between 0.35mm and 0.40mm. That covers most situations (pick a mainline based on diameter rather than breaking strain). 15lb Nash Bullet is 0.37 and that’s a great place to start. 2. Use your mainline for hooklink. 0.37mm mono makes great hooklink suitable for up to 70 yards. 3. Hooks: a short shanked, straight point, out turned eye hook is all you need (like the Nash twisters, size 6). Use barbless (if rules allow). 4. Just use the mono hair rig (ruclips.net/video/LzFina92brM/видео.html). You only need a hook bead to hold the knot in position. Make your hooklink 20cm long. 5. Use a running lead setup. Use: 1oz to 3oz lead (depending on range) and a buffer bead that’s compatible with rig tubing. I use the Nash heli sleeve without the bead (I show it here: ruclips.net/video/NzmQgIiwFI0/видео.html). The plastic ring and quick change clip are optional, you can just thread your lead onto the tubing. Use 50cm of rig tubing. 6. To attach your rig to your mainline, use a size 8 quick change swivel and a short anti tangle sleeve. Tie a loop at the end of your hooklink, hook it on the swivel and slide the anti tangle sleeve over the top to hold it in place (like I show here: ruclips.net/video/Z2Zh54emhS4/видео.html) 7. Use 18mm bottom baits with a hair stop. If you want some freebies next to your rig, use PVA mesh or PVA tape. Hook sharpness is critical so change your hooks frequently. Pre-tie some rigs and swap them out during the session. So your shopping list is: mainline, hook, hook bead, lead, buffer bead, rig tubing, hair stop, quick change swivel, short anti tangle sleeve. Please let me know if this is of use. We may well do a video on this!
Thank you for the quick response.. I'll go through it a few times and make a shopping list and let you know how I get on. Things look a little clearer and I'm not in as much of a panic as before ! 👍@@matthewcollinsangler
Hi mate, I’ve made this ‘shopping list’ based on our chat so that I can share it easily with others and I’ve added a couple of bits. Thought I’d share it with you. Starter Carp Rig Bits: amzn.to/3R2uVNw (If you buy through these affiliate links, we may earn a commission, price to you is the same)
Thanks Matthew . when you gave me the list I went out and bought a load of the equipment you recommended but not all of it , so any extra , Ill check this page first . ! @@matthewcollinsangler
Hi Matthew, having heard you say that there's never a situation where free spool facility is more useful and explain the reason too, I have some nice big pit free spool reels that I bought for mostly aesthetics but I want to make the most of them now. Their bait runner function is really quite loose even on the tightest setting. Do you have any recommendations on rigs or tactics that might lean into this loose free spool feature? I am aware such a thing might not exist but I really do want to make the most out of these reels. Kind regards
Ah right, that’s a shame. It’s also surprising that even when you tighten down the bait runner clutch setting it doesn't make much difference. The good news is that there is a really simple solution and one I have used with plenty of guests… just don’t use the bait runner facility. Okay it’s a waste because you paid for it but you’d be far better off ignoring it. I assume you have a large front drag clutch right? Just dial in on that and when you have a take, tighten or loosen appropriately. I just screw mine tight, flip the anti reverse off and it’s game on. Hope that helps 👍
All about opinions,,but weight isn't a issue for me when they are sitting on rests most of the time and to say lost fish is astonishing I just my finger on the spool when striking no issues whatsoever.
I just let it run with bait runner few more seconds then slowly reel and the action isnt as instant as you say. Ive never bumped fish and i been fishing for 20 years for carp.
I didn’t specifically talk about it in this video because there’s no difference in terms of line twist between the two types of reel. If you fish with a loose clutch on a front drag reel you’ll suffer line twist just as badly as you would do on a bait runner style reel.
The Baitrunner does not cause hook pulls quite the opposite just set your drag up a little from the baitrunner to set the hook then adjustment the drag accordingly once the fish has been hooked. Simple
I do like playing a fish using backwinding, but i see so many allowing the reel to be free and using the spool to play the fish. The trouble is it can easily bump a fish off. The best way to control a fish's lunges is with the rod, this is keeping the tip high and the lunges are taken up in the tip bend, just reminding that playing a fish there is more things than just the reel to be taken in to consideration.
Best thing I have found to stop losing a fish at your feet is nash triggerlink as it has elastic in with the braid it works like a shock absorber no one uses it to that why it's so good with a running rig carp have no chance lol
@48hughjars I know and those that fish properly will know these assoles are only in it to sell gear. Bloody wankers are spoiling the sport. They put loads of bait in, buy exclusive waters to show off, still the basic good angler knows how to play and enjoy the battle for landing a fish.
Hi mate, yes, there is. It’s to do with the speed at which the clutch can be adjusted from being fully locked up to free spool. Quick drag reels (generally) would take approx ½ of the front clutch knob to go from free spool to fully locked up. A front drag reel will require more turns but will give you more precision on the clutch setting because there are more increments. Personal preference 😊
I don’t believe it’s the transition that’s bumped them off as I’ve had this problem and I solved it. 1. Thé baitrunner is set too lose 2. Thé rig encourages a light hook hold 3. Lifting the rod changes the angle of the hook hold and it pulls out. Solved if you tighten baitrunner, use rig that when it turns encourages a deep hooking and keep your tip low. Et voilà pas problem 😉
I've seen so many comments that people can't cope with a front drag and get all in a faf with it i don't know why when its just a single knob not 2 knobs and a switch the front drag is far better than baitrunner or back drag as you get far more pressure on the washers with a front drag most front drags are around 22kg of pressure locked up baitrunners are no where near
💯 Couldn’t agree more mate. Hope this video and comments like these help anglers consider the real benefits of quick drag reels. They’re also much better when you’re fishing near snags, or if you hook a 100lb catfish… I’ve seen guests get spooled out at my lake on small BR reels.
@matthewcollinsangler wow that madness this is why I can't stand baitrunners should not be used in carp fishing like you said we should be in control one we have a bite even though the rod isn't even in our hands also there is just more to go wrong with a baitrunner its just a gimmick imo but I see so many people think they know best they are the ones that don't fish safe at all the carp is the first and last thing though about in carp fishing all about profit margins now like I said on many carp tackle companies RUclips enjoy it while is last as now China has gave 236 mill in drones to Russia sanctions will come to China and the tackle industry will be the first to feel it as everything is made with cheap labour and materials in China now
I've had both and I'd never go back to Daiwa. Most of my reels are Shimano Ultegra's. Few people are talking highly about the Okumas on my post here: www.youtube.com/@matthewcollinsangler/community
Hi there, I don’t use or recommend circle hooks for carp fishing. They are blunt with a very in turned point and they’re designed for predators, not carp. For carp fishing, I use a short shank straight pointed hook (Nash chod twister). Cheers, Matt
Totally get that not everybody agrees, this is just my experience over the last 20 years with the reels I've used. The baitrunners I had can’t be locked up as tightly as I need, that's all.
Yep I’ll call bullshit ,of course it’s important to check the baitrunner ,no difference if you forget to loosen the front drag ,I’ve caught thousands of carp on bait runners so it just comes down to preference,so much tackle these days is just to con people into spending more ,had the same reels for 10 years with no issues,the only thing I would say is don’t waste your money on cheap gear as you will only end up buying decent gear eventually.
This video makes no sense to me...2 clutches ie baitrunner plus the rear drag you can set to whatever you like...whats the difference over 1 quick drag ?? I've had both and can get on with either but baitrunners are my preference...no disadvantages whatsoever.
I use both. Bait runners simply have more features and companies that don't make reels themselves (Nash, sonik, fox etc) struggle to make them reliable. Hence videos like this trying to convince us that they are not useful. The loosing fish on connection is absolute rubbish. You want reel that is designed and made in house them get a Shimano (not budget ones), daiwa or okuma.
@ianharris9612 one that's right you doughnut but then you're obviously one that listens to pointless waffle I bet you was one of those mugs who had your jabs aswell 🤔 🤣🤣
Super slow osolation just means nylon gears.dont see anyone catfishing on the ebro or thialand with these daft front drag weak reels..and casting..terry has thecrecord with a 5500..people talk utter shit..that old baitrunner is better than anything new..he just doesnt know he hss nylon gears in the new crap ones
▶ Watch next: Have total confidence in your rod setup: ruclips.net/video/j_NSmA2CtQQ/видео.html If you’re currently fishing with bait runner reels and you love them then great, but if you are considering changing reels I’d seriously recommend going for a fast drag or quick drag style next time, especially if you want to buy larger reels. For quite a few years I’ve been backwinding when I play fish and I know this isn't everyone's cup of tea but I love the amount of control it gives me. If you want to make a move towards backwinding then quick drag reels are ideal as I can choose exactly when and to what degree I lock up the spool. If I receive a savage take, I will slowly increase the drag to control the fish and only when it’s safe to do so will I fully lock the spool, switch off the anti reverse and play them on the handle. This technique takes time to master but once you get the hang of it, I doubt you’ll switch back.
you might want to look at the new big baitrunner it's a ci4 just like the ultegra. they weigh a whole lot less that the originals. and your understanding of the reels is wrong I've never lost any fish due to bait runners
You have a bait runner drag system that allows control of the freespool facility to allow you 'set' how easily a fish can take line - you can have the 'baitrunner' fairly well locked up if you wanted to. The issue I have with quick drag reels is you have less adjustability to set the drag perfectly. I've seen people grab their rod and give the drag dial a turn then can't give any line to a fish because it's locked up. Then they're constantly trying to fiddle with the drag to adjust it while playing a fish. I've seen fish lost like that.
With a bait runner, set the separate drag to how you want a fish to be able to take line. When you get a take all you have to do is turn the reel handle which disengages the bait runner/freespool and leaves you playing the fish on a perfectly pre set drag.
I do play fish of the clutch as sometimes when you have a fish close in there's no way your keeping up with them by back winding when they set off.
Just my opinion but for me a reel with 2 separate highly adjustable drag systems is a better choice than a reel with one drag that has less range of adjustability.
As for weight it's not a concern for me as the rods are on the rests for 99% of the time.
For stalking/floater fishing I just use smaller baitrunners - just in case I have to take my attention away from the rods I flip the bait runner on as a safety measure. Same for the Barbel fishing.
Totally agree with you..I swear by bait runners.. I have big pits that are bait runners.. I set my main drag FIRST then set the runner in exactly the same way as Matt here, depending on situation... If I'm 15 wraps or more I'll set the main drag fairly loose.. then in transition the fish can still take line and I fine adjust from there.. I think Matt wasn't using them properly imo..
Totally agree 👍🏻
I'm in the process of upscaling my pike fishing reels since I bought a baitboat to get out further (on big irish waters) and my Shimano 10000XTEs are running out of line !
I've been mulling over this exact question and my feeling is the same as yours, 2 infinitely-variable clutches are always gonna be always better than 1...
I'm leaning towards those big Ultegra 14000s he showed, spendy but , at 65y.o. , they'll see me out... 🙄😂
Thanks for helping me focus on the pros & cons of both...
😎👍☘️🍺
Yes zir
Hello Matt. My name is Jorge. I am from Brazil.
I loved getting to know his work and this wonderful modality of carp fishing, which has inspired me a lot. The didactics of his videos on how to choose equipment, assemble systems, types of rigs, baits, etc...
All this brought me concepts that I began to adapt to the reality here in our region, mainly for fishing for curimba (Prochilodus lineatus), a fish endemic to my region, whose characteristics are identical to those of carp. The footage, the places where you fish are wonderful.
Another factor that makes me love watching your videos is how nice it is to understand your English pronunciation, considering that I'm learning the language.
For all that, thank you for your beautiful work, Matt. Success for you!
Hello Jorge 🇧🇷
How wonderful to hear your story and thank you for sharing it. It’s fantastic to know that my videos can help you in your fishing for curimba. I don’t know this fish so I had to google it! I wish you lots of success in your fishing and thank you for watching. Matt
I’ve used Shimano Baitrunners for 35 years & never had a single problem.. When you switch the facility off it sends the hook home? And nowadays the xtb 14000 have quick front drags so you’ve got the best of both worlds fella 👍🏻
Yeah old shimano are amazing but you buy new ones they are rubbish had the ultegra xtd poo the xte new all aluminium construction like the ci4 nothing like the old ones will never buy shimano again
Init even if you let it run a bit longer and reel in slow I've never bumped no fish.
Matt, as always very informative video. As many below have stated, I too bought a set of QD reels. Love them. I still have my bait runners on a set of rods and use them as well. At this, and after a fortune spent on fishing gear; I have decided enough spending money on gear so, I use the rods n reels I have and until they fall apart. At that point I’ll buy another set of QDs. Tight Lines mate.
Cheers mate 👍
Thank you Matt’ another great informative video for me, as I am a born again Angler, in my younger years I spent as a youth to young adult River & Canal fishing spent a lot of years absent from the angling scene And now as a much older adult have found new ground in carp fishing and over the last few years have been enjoying it. I gotta say that Matt Collins is my definite go to for up to date info. Thanks again👍
That’s lovely to hear mate, glad to be part of your angling journey 😊
U no it mate . He is an love it
You can fish baitrunners on multiple settings as well??
I use Mitchell and Okuma Baitfeeder reels. Fighting drag on the spool. Never had a problem. Had Shimano GTE's for years. No problems. Just set your fighting drag correctly. Both types are excellent.
Hi matt hope your well, I'm doing a 72 hour session in the UK @ berners hall Fishery in Essex, just had my PB a 43 lb mirror on your blow back multi rig, fu**ING awesome I'm over the moon thank you for passing on your knowledge means alot.
All the best speak soon Dan. 😎
Oh mate, I love hearing that!! Really means a lot that fellow anglers have success with my ideas 😜 Big congrats on your new PB! Reset, repeat, enjoy 👊
The biggest reason for losing fish on a baitrunner is because of not setting your fighting drag correctly. Also when you pick up the rod on a full out run, use your finger on the spool and switch when the carp slows down, or changes direction.
Nah just band straight into it and set the hook that bit deeper in case it’s only just pricked
Hi, I really enjoy your videos and find them very helpful, but a little bit of feedback on this particular one....the drag setting on the back of the Shimano Baitrunners I use allows you to adjust the tension much like you do with a front drag reel.
Also, I and my fishing companions have never lost a fish when turning off the bait runner setting.....if at all it probably helps set the hook even better?
Baitrunners are fantastic reels as are front drag, and if new to carp fishing please don't be discouraged from purchasing a baitrunner style reel based on this video.
Love your great videos, just felt compelled to comment on this one based on differing opinion 👍
No worries at all mate, thanks for the feedback 👍
So I use bait runners but I have my main drag fairly loose. it means when i disengage freespool its an increased resistance but not a huge jump. I can then finger the spool increase resistance and fine tune the drag on the fly
Way back when I used to use bait runners I used to slow the spool down with my finger before I turned the handle.
I now use the older ci4 xsb reels with my 12 and 13ft rods and would not switch them..
Someone else has mentioned that trick 👍
Good video, my biggest issue is the very fact that you can go from 0 to 100% in a half turn greatly reduces the ability to fine tune the resistance, particularly if you are pre-occupied with the ongoing battle with a big girl...a quick twist &you can overshoot the resistance...
The 2 baitrunner clutches are infinitely variable and if you use a rod line clip, you effectively have THREE drag systems... being irish, I don't fish for carp as we don't have them apart from a very few commercials, my long distance angling is for pike, dropping the baits out with a baitboat, ... so my reel choice is based on that. Presently, I'm using 10000XTE reels.
On a windy day, I can use the line clip to stop the wind/waves pulling the line from the open bail arm setting and the baitrunner drag is set to freespool whilst the main drag is tested by hand before fishing... reel-weight is an issue only if you are getting bites every half hour and constantly casting back out...
I'm considering those big Ultegras at the moment as my 10000XTEs are running out of line at distance...
Thanks for the vid, mate & tight lines !
😎👍☘️🍺
You can adjust the tension just fine on a baitrunner as well. Been doing it for 12 years.
I use Shimano baitrunners from the very beginning in the 1980's.
I have a set of the 3500, the 4500 and even the 6500 for my trips to Cassein.
Ofcourse I still have them and they are still in mint condition.
Only disadvantage of baitrunners is the baitrunner system twists the line. After a weekend with a lot of runs you must untwist the line otherwise you will have massive problems.
Greetings and tight lines 🎣 from the Čzech Republic 🇨🇿.
Which baitrunner reel do you recommend for 12ft rods and casting up to 80m?
I use on my Shimano xt7 Speciman 2.75lb 12ft and Shimano XTB big bait runner 14000 and im happy wit settings. @@djoki82
Great video full of good advice. I fish similarly for tench. I tried a bait runner, but never got on with it, the sudden change in the tension always felt uncomfortable. Now fishing with "mini big pit" reels and keeping the drag quite tight I am getting better contact with the tench and stopping them getting in thick weeds. Thanks for the advice :)
Great to hear mate, glad you enjoyed it 👍
Good video! I think it comes down to preference. I'm back to carp fishing again and I miss my baitrunner setup which is in different country. I think it's the time and fiddling. Could probably compare it to when lure fishing with spinning reels and casting reels.
I've been carp fishing on and off for 35 years and switched between the two types of reels and I still prefure baitrunners as there more versatile, you can fish them locked up , baitrunner on low drag so line comes of easy ( perfect for running leads ) baitrunner on tight if your fishing open water . Also if you set the front dragg correctly so your in playing mode as soon as you get a take your instantly in playing mode by one turn of a handle with big pit reels your constantly fiddling with the front drag . Casting is not a problem with baitrunners as on a 7000 size baitrunner I can hit 90 yards easy and if you go for a reel like the okuma ls6k it's a bsitrunner but design for long range casting.
everytime i make up my mind about something to do with fishing you make a video of it confirming i made the right choice. barbless hooks, inline leads and now fast drag reels. finally a fisherman using his brain and not listening to the masses.
Great to hear we're on the same wavelength mate 👍
Way to eat your own load and drink it too
Great film, I started with baitrunners, never thought I would change but love my Daiwa QD reels no hassle One click it tightens up and smooth as. I never fancied a front drag but they are far superior in every way
Thanks mate 😊 I went through the same experience and I'll never go back to BR reels now.
@@matthewcollinsangler yeah I feel the same way. I really enjoy your RUclips content mate, learnt a lot from you really to say I’ve been angling for 44years lol I really enjoyed how you drained your lake down and the maintenance you carried out loved them films. What is the lake called please
Thanks very much mate for the support, means a lot. I really enjoy sharing my knowledge of this little fishing paradise. The lake is called Beausoleil Carp and Cats, here's the website if you want to have a look: www.frenchcarpandcats.com
I found it interesting - thanks for taking the time to share
Fishing a very snaggy Australian rivers: I have just switched to a QD reels. Clutch have to be set very tight as even a few seconds of a free run often means a lost fish - no point using the free spool option.
Baitrunner Ci4s have both options and are super light. Medium ones are perfect for most situations.
They really are not imo more moving parts to go wrong
Same. 5500 ci4 baitrunners are awesome and weigh next to nothing. Why stress about BR vs. QD when you can have both in 1 reel.
@stevepalmer4404 just more to go wrong and they don't weigh less than a FD
@@aarondavies8486 How often does a Shimano baitrunner "go wrong" ??
Myself & several of my mates have been using these reels for specimen pike angling for 20+ years now and none of us has ever seen a Shimano reel fail... 🤔
@peterfitzpatrick7032 you had non of the new ones yeah anything befor 2018 was built like a tank I had the xtd 5500 ultegra they failed twice they skimped out on baring in some parts of the reel jist had ptfe bushings not bearing then had the new xte shimanos all ali construction and they started to grind after 8 months so sold them now have the full carbon fibre okuma obsidian better than any reel up to 500 quid and they only 180 to buy ill never by shimanos again should of never sold my old ci4s
The only problem when switching from a bait runner to a fast drag is the first few times you forget you’ve gone over to a quick drag when winding into the fish.
I wouldn’t go back to runner reels now though. My 5500 carbon 14 reels are perfect for my 9ft set up.
The Korda underwater videos have shown though that a fish will pick up a bait, feel resistance, drop it, bugger off elsewhere all without you getting anything more than a single beep - and thats if you are lucky. I dont use baitrunners for carp, but I know I catch more on my 4000 size baitrunners fishing for coarse fish when using free running rigs and the free spool function engaged.
The 6000 RA is a shocking reel, far better to spend a bit more and get the X Aero, nice watch by the way.
I use both rear and front drag reels and both do the job just fine .
Baitrunner is the best system of drag adjustment. For this reason, because Shimano discontinued to do the performance reels with baitrunner, lost front of Daiwa many, many fans.
i recently got a set of 3.5 lb daiwa longbow carp rods with some quick drag reels... at least for carp i'm never going back to baitrunner reels... however i still think a baitrunner reel is great for pike fishing
Had Shimmy baitrunners swapped to Big pit went back to shimmys 10000s baitrunners love em no problems
I use baitrunners and if I have a fast running take, I cup the spool to slow the fish down before disengaging the freespool.
Yes, that works. You can also try setting the BR much tighter in the first place so that there’s less difference between the BR and the playing setting so it’s less of a ‘jump’ between the two.
I had the LC big pits absolutely bomb proof lol
I'm always on a very tight budget, and only relatively recently realised that an entry level standard reel is better quality than an entry level baitrunner. Also, I really like a very light rod and reel, and 8 foot rods especially.
Quick drag reels tend to be simpler, fewer components, I think that's why you'll get better value than with BR reels.
You will find a front drag gives you more pressure to that a baitrunner will last a lot longer to like matt said less moving parts
I wouldn't mind seeing a video on drag v backwind. I always seem to swap halfway through playing a fish and I still don't really know why I do it. It seems to be a gut reaction.
Don't need to back wind no more its just habit for some people now days as drags weren't reliable 20 years back but tech has moved on now that drags can be reliable now that's all it is
I also backwind playing fish, as the clutch/drag gives you line twist.
Hi mate, I’ve done a video on this: ruclips.net/video/AGuXj4xKDow/видео.html. Hope it helps.
@paulhigham6047 I have never had line twist if you take the line off the spool of line the right way the bucket of water trick gives you line twist
To me using a quick drag feels like riding and shifting a 3 speed bicycle while I'm used to a more supple 7 gear.
I'm missing every position inbetween 😉 !
..So when I bought quick drag big pits some years ago I immediately noticed the lack of sensitivity and moved 'em on to a marker and a spod rod. That's what quick drag reels are good for.
Ps I even tried teflon drag rings but it didn't make it any better.
Modern bait runners are miles smaller, but am slowly moving off the bait runner function. But i do like still havin that funtion especially for cat fishing
Hi mate, we’ve got cats to 135lbs in my lake, most anglers fish with boilies over pellets with an upscale carp rig (ruclips.net/video/NkOZfsGNmbk/видео.html), a running lead and a semi tight clutch which hooks the cat automatically when it picks up the rig. Anglers don’t use the baitrunner function at all, they don’t have the clutch power required to land these fish. Might be a different approach to what other catfishing anglers know, but it works a treat!
Having used budget Okuma BR's for decades with only one ever failing (at that was the baitrunner clutch) I use them as both front drag only or with the full BR feature..... depending on situation and application!
Switched from Shimano to Okuma 15 years ago. Never had any problems with the Okuma Epix V2. Still going strong. Will last another 15 years. And this is alot of carp later. (A lot ofcatfish too)
I've the daiwa Emblem 45 SCW QD. Good reels but QD takes a lot of getting used to.
Quite happy with my baitrunners which are still in use after 30+ years. I cannot think of a time when a lose can be put down to "the transition" as suggested. Could one of the reasons be; using tip action "broomsticks" , designed to be fished further than most people actually do, not absorbing/cushioning the "transition"??
Soft rods certainly do a better job of cushioning the transition.
Been fishing for 40 years always used bait runners but finally made the switch to quick drag reels ( nash scope gt6000 ) nice compact reels , with powerfull cluch ,it was the fold away handle that did it for me . Great info again matt
Great to hear mate 👍 Haven't tested those yet.
I've been using Shimano Bait runners for donkeys years and infact I've just treated myself to another set of St RB 10000s. I've had absolutely no problem with 'Bumping off'. Maybe your reel has a problem with the free runner tension because mine can lock right up with just half a turn of the bait runner knob.
Hey Matt, i really needed this video. what are the chances? after decades of fishing with my Shimano Baitrunner XT6000RA reels, 2 days ago i came to the same thing as you and i bought myself a pair of QD reels. im sitting here waiting for them to arrive and im soaking your words in as this will be a big change in playing fish but i can confirm, i do loose fish straight after hooking them from time to time. so thank you for taking the time to make this video.
That’s great to hear! QD reels are different for sure and there may be an adjustment period but it’s totally worthwhile. Just adjust your clutch tight enough so that your rod doesn’t go in but loose enough to pay line if you get a savage take. I’m sure you’ll get the hang of it in no time. Enjoy!
Im not convinced on the fish being bumped off thing. If you're fishing mono, which carp anglers should be, then the stretch in the line would stop any sudden change in tension .....and if the fish comes off, then it was unlikely hooked well in the first place and the chances of landing it would be minimal.
Originally big pit reels were sea fishing reels, most reels nowadays the only difference between bait runners and fixed spools is the weight,both types can fail on free spool ,my old T5000s used to weight a ton compared to my Mags, and I've never lost a fish due to reels, compared to hook pulls on stiffer test curves rod's.
Hi. I struggle to understand why the wait of the real is a big concern when I cast a carp rod so infrequently. When I am lure fishing yes the weight of the real is a big concern. I can be making 1000s of cast a day and a heavy real will kill your arm and wrist. When carp fishing I make a cast every few hrs so the weight of the real is much less of a concern over the strength of the real. I am using the Shimano 6000oc 8000oc and 12000D fishing in thailand for the Siamese carp. I normally use the bait runner and like to know that I can have 2 pre set drags that I can set without the adrenaline pumping. If I use a non baitrunner real I can get a little carried away in the heat of the moment and end up adjusting the drag down hard and end up pulling the hook. Having that 2nd drag set before hand when my heart isn’t racing is a god send. For the Mekong catfish I won’t use a baitrunner. Stick to a standard spinning big pit real with an aluminum body. The real needs to be strong for the Mekong catfish. They just don’t know when to quit. I did buy a penn baitrunner recently. All aluminum and a touch heavier than the Shimano but I am liking it a lot. Time will tell on it’s overall strength but very nice to play a fish. No flex in the real body, feels very solid.
Great video, thank you.
Diawa Emcast Baitrunner LT 5000-C or the Shimano Baitrunner OC 6000? Which one would you pick? The Shimano is approx. $70.00 more
Hi mate, having used multiple Daiwa and Shimano reels, I would only use Shimano 👍
Hi Matt, did you fit Ice Washers to your Shimano front drag reels to achieve the quarter turn spool lock and unlock
Hi Joe, I considered it but since I switched to backwinding, the standard washers on the ci4’s are good enough in my opinion.
Having fished for >25yrs on gte's, xtea's and LC's i'm still a big fan of the baitrunner system. The huge difference in settings can easily be overcome by dialing in a less aggressive transition. Although i have to admit i don't see a lot of people paying attention to it. Weight is also a non issue for me because the rods are on the rests 95% of the time anyway. That said...when it comes to casting, there can only be one winner and it def isn't the baitrunner. And, while i never had any problems with my br's, the QD reels have fewer parts, so there's less that can go wrong while being more affordable as well...so yeah, there's a lot to be said for QD.
Fair assessment mate 👍
The only reason the old baitrunners design isn’t good for casting is the spool size but the LC baitrunners solved that. They are still the reel of choice for the worlds monster fish in Thailand.
Baitrunners could be made using lighter components with the biggest of spools but they would be costly.
Yet again bullshit opinion here about the “bump off” caused by transition from baitrunner to main drag and the fish going all over the place on the baitrunner drag. That is entirely dependent on your settings.
How many years were you a none angler before you returned to it? I never stopped using them all over 50 years starting with Mitchell 300s which only had a front spool drag then, we have come full circle.
Spool size and line lay for casting is a completely different thing to the line drag system.
I still use the older baitrunner system reels for small water fishing and never bump fish in “transition” as you call it. I rarely have the baitrunner set so slack the “fish can go all over the place” that’s bad angling, I don’t want the rod towed in either.
I only ever use the lighter baitrunner settings when I don’t want a bait dropped cat fishing or pike fishing.
For U.K. carping the baitrunner setting depends on the application. If fishing tight to snags locked up I either have the baitrunner at a maximum setting or only then I do have that off completely using instead the tighter main clutch.
The big runner LC is so different because you have fine adjustment on the baitrunner but it was the first to switch the main drag to be operated within the body of the spool by the friction of washers, just like the rest of the front quick drag only reels. Put carbon washers in a big old Long Cast they are super smooth playing the fish on the drag…hence their application for 400lb Mekong catfish!
The smaller baitrunners brake the spin of the central spool pin with two separate systems, one the forward ring for the baitrunner, the rear nob the main playing drag. The biggest benefit was the rear drag knob is so easy to get at when playing a fish.
The trick to avoid that transition bump off, sorry but clearly you never learnt to fish them right. When you do so there is no rapid change in tension. Those you say you see bumping off “ because of” the rear baitrunner may be partly true, partly assumption. Either way it was because they never learnt to use them properly either.
I never bump off in “ transition” hooking big Arapaima and the like with the boniest hardest to hook jaws there are, using my Long Casts. And that’s even when you darent put fingers near a spool for fear of an instant blister, such is their speed.
So my friends what is the trick with the old rear drag baitrunner system?…simple. You don’t in normal swims ever set the baitrunner ultra slack, resistance helps set the hook and stops the fish going “all over the place”.
Most importantly, if the baitrunner is giving reasonable resistance anyway you don’t need to turn the handle or flick the switch to change to the playing drag straight away. Instead when you pick up the reel one hand goes on the spool. Especially if fishing mono at distance where there is stretch, the spool should not be rotating so fast as to blister. Especially the bigger carp rarely move that fast. Raise the rod to a 45 degrees fighting angle then the initial run will slow to a stop at which point you can disengage the baitrunner with your thumb or turn the reel handle to engage the main clutch setting.
Because your hand is around the spool at that point that switch puts no sharp jump in pressure down the line whatsoever. You can adjust the spool spin below with hand pressure until the run slows and you can flick the switch bump free. Once you are practiced at doing this it becomes second nature. Indeed I still do this for European carp even using quick drag type spools at the start of the fight because it’s quicker than messing twiddling with the front drag setting until the fish has calmed down and you know what you are into.
If you ever have bump transmitted to the line from a rear baitrunner system you just aren’t doing in right, simple as. And you should always have your main drag set at a lighter setting at the start of the fight too.
At the end of landing every fish, the mistake most make is not resetting their main back drag lighter for the initial part of the next fight. Once you have the baitrunner drag set right it can stay there, not so the fighting drag.
And even if you did it all wrong any line “ bump” in reality depends on how and where you are fishing. It would mostly be a risk fishing a rear baitrunner with braid close in. Far less impactful if fishing at distance with mono where even the fastest short pull at the reel end would barely be felt at all at the rig end of the line through all the mono stretch.
Absolutely spot on. I think someone had more years away from angling than they care to admit. Baitrunners are still the reel of choice for the fastest takes on the planet fishing with monstrous fish in Thailand and with good reason.
The big change with the Long Casts and the Oceanics we now use is that the main drag is now separate within the main spool assembly, just like with quick drag reels. And with carbon washers included those playing drags are ultra smooth minimising the risk of the hook bumping out of what is often a bony mouth anyway.
Most of my fishing is still done using baitrunners and I wouldn’t be doing that if was was losing fish bumping off at the moment I clicked off the baitrunner. My Basia reels don’t have one but are single purpose big long spool casting machines so I don’t need one there.
But to dismiss a whole category of reel type based on personal bias, misconception and frankly bad fishing practice has to be challenged.
55 years of regular fishing experience without having a break and coming back I have actually been through reel development from the beginning, used them all, and used to learn to use the different types to best advantage. Funnily enough you learn a thing or two after that many rod hours, including how many don’t know quite as much as they profess to do.😂
@@jamesrussel1133 Hi James, very interesting to read. Thanks for sharing your knowledge from your vast experience and giving plenty of pointers for baitrunner users. These were only my thoughts and experiences based on my 22 years of carp fishing and 12 years as fishery owner. I certainly haven’t tried and used as many reels as you have. Thanks again for sharing. Regards, Matt
400lb of carp in 6 hours ranging from 3 to 15lb I personally need a bait runner, especially when freelining close in... there just isn't time to do anything beyond click off the runner, at this point you don't know if it's a bigger fish or a farty angry little one, again I personaly don't have time to be guessing where the drag is set too because it needs to be 'there' now.(there's another plus to the runner, let's the fish bolt out of your swim so there's no need to be getting locked onto the fish right over your bait and respreading the carp).
But, here's the stinger the odd cat comes into play, on 6lb mainline 4 to 5lb hooklength the cat comes in so far there powers up and smash's you instantly....as does the odd carp, so that front clutch once set stays there religiously lol....(it can be a faff setting that light when playing and getting the clutch clicking all the while but you land 99 percent of everything.)
Narr then, upping to 15 plus pound line and fishing hundred yards out I've no problems with quick drag but I'm only a few months into using quick drag. (it's funny how things change with more experience lol)
Something to note with bait runners, the free spool needs to be set right too, or you bum a lot of fish, but to heavy and you can loose fish that way as well and loose a rod or too lol.
All said and done, everything in it's place at the right time lol. 20lb plus fishing just doesn't fish the same.
Hi Matt. Great video and came at just the right time. Any chance on one on your choice for carp rods?
Hi Paul, depends what you’re doing… I used to do all my fishing with 12ft rods but swapped to 9ft retractables 3 years ago and I absolutely love them. I only use the 12ft when fishing large lakes. The 9ft 3lb Nash Dwarfs are great little rods, fantastic value for money. I also have a set of the Nash Scopes 9ft 3lb, really nice with a premium look and feel. 2 good options in my opinion. The Nash X series is worth a look for conventional 2-piece rods that won’t break the bank. Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt
Thanks for your comments. Very helpful. I like the Nash BP reels but not used them a lot to find where the faults are plus it seems that Nash has now discontinued them. Have Scope 10' 3lb rods but selling them as found them too stiff and not pleasurable to fight fish on. Switching to Sonik Xtractor 9' 3lb. Hopefully the carp won't complain.
@@matthewcollinsangler
Trying to be kind.....but isn't this a bit of a red herring.
I've used QD's and baitrunners. I will be sticking with my Shimano baitrunners. I've never bumped a fish at the point of transitioning from free spool to main drag. Usually its at a different point in the fight. I've had big cats on my Shimano baitrunners and trust the drag. Even my mini-pits have handled have handled Cats fine. I don't like backwinding because I've not got big hands. If you can't get a decent amount of your finger tips around the bail arm for a good grip it's a recipe for getting your finger tips smashed up if you fingers slip. Anyway why buy a reel whose drag you don't trust.
You know you can adjust the baitrunners freespool drag? In fact you showed us. You can give a bit of resistance on the take even in baitrunner mode. So each rod can set with a different initial resistance. In fact I would always recommend a little bit of resistance even in freespool as it prevents any line over run on a take.
I think your hook pulls on the transition between freespool and main drag is because your using running rigs. If you use a semi-fixed or bolt rig then the weight of the lead sets the hook. With running rigs it's more down to line tension as the lead offers no resistance. You have recently been expousing the benefits of running rigs I've notice.
I've done the opposite. I spent years using running rigs. I then switched to a sort of semi-fixed setup and feel my hook up rate got better.
I've always felt that you often don't get a deep intial hook set on running rigs and any slack in the line, for example when you pick your rod and start turning the reel may just give enough drop in pressure to allow the hook to pop out. A running lead skidding across bottom may not provide a solid pivot or anchor point to maintain tension either.
Your switch to QD reels probably means that your line tension to the hook is now on average somewhat higher and helps drive the hook in. That's not a fault with baitrunners. You could achieve the same result by tightening your freespool tension so it offers more resistance on the take.
I think the real lesson is that if your using running rigs then you need to offer a moderate amount of line tension to help set the hook. From experiance, using a big lead on your run ring or getting it to plug into the bottom so that does not slide across the bottom also helps.
Don’t like runners I do use qd and backwinding but everyone is different top vid as always 🎣🎣
Thanks, works for me too 😊
Consider the test curve of your rod when setting your fighting drag. Also your line test.
No issue with bait runner reel engagement with Mono line. The Elasticity of Mono absorbs the energy. This is a problem with braided fishing lines and why I choose Mono over Braid.
Why are the switches backwards on those STs?! I have X-Aero 4000 and the baitrunner is engaged with the lever pulled away from the reel. That’s so dumb.
Matt I know how experienced and keen you are about fish safety especially having your own lake, just wondered what your view is on the omc magic stick ! I know it’s hard to say when you haven’t seen it in the flesh but just your general opinion on first glance if you’ve seen it mate 👍
My initial reaction is that it’s a problem that doesn't need solving. I already have an auto-strike system: two solid bank sticks, a semi tight clutch and a running lead. The elasticity of the mono and the tightness of the clutch do the hooking of the carp for me before I even get to the rod and the bites are phenomenal. As an angler, this new system is not something that’s going to help in my fishing. As a fishery owner, I have concerns around safety and I’m following the on-going conversations among lake owners and the feedback from OMC.
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks for your reply matt. My concern is that if it is as affective as he says then the fish don’t stand a chance and will be hammered relentlessly especially how busy most lakes are these days surely it would affect the life span of fish being stressed and relentlessly caught. It just doesn’t seem fair game to me 👍
Big baitrunner lc.....best reel ever....still use em now
Hi matt.if you were to give 1 piece of advice for fishing a rock hard venue what would it be ?and keep the good work mate 🐟👌👍👍
Hi Dave,
OK, tough challenge! I can’t do just one piece of advice on this lol
So here you go:
1. Change your hook every cast
2. Basic mono rigs
3. Running lead
4. Find the fish and lob a single at them
😊
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks mate 👌👍
Hi Matt.if you started to fish a tricky venue and wasn't sure about what hookbait to use would u use a bait u was confident in or find out what the regulars was using ?regards David 👍
@@daveshaw5293 Hi David, I don’t worry about bait at all when I go to a new venue. I have total confidence in the bait I use. When I go to a new venue, I focus on features, nature of the lakebed, where the fish are. I don’t worry about what other anglers are using. My bait of choice is Scopex Squid because it’s nutritious (high in protein) and effective.
@@matthewcollinsangler sounds about right Matt thanks 👌👍
Just woke up and great way to start it a fish on my rig would make it even better 😂
Haha, hopefully that means you're fishing though mate 🎣
@@matthewcollinsangler I am indeed mate
Get your settings right and a baitrunner is by far the best carp reel ! I use Shimano big baitrunner ci4 paired with Harrison Torrix 13ft 3.25 tc No weight issues what so ever never bump fish and I can chuck 48 wraps with a 4oz . Ive been carp fishing for 42 years and have tried pretty much every set up there is . Inc Basia's , Tec Mags , none compare to my current set up
Opinions on Ali Hamidis new death rig ( magic stick ) it was also found at a lake called prunet by some people that fished it 2 weeks after Ali did it would found with about 100m of mainline lead fully on not ejected or anything Ali Hamidi reached out to them as it was a prototype and not launched yet. Sorry for the long comment just don't think he should have his own brand that new anglers could look up to !
Hi mate, I am also worried about the length of line that would be left behind in case of mainline failure. I, and others, shared our safety concerns with Ali directly during a call he had with lake owners this week. For me, Ali didn’t address any of the safety concerns raised, other than to say we’ve tested it and caught hundreds of carp with zero issues.
As an angler, this is not something that’s solving a problem in my fishing. I already have an ‘auto-strike’ system: two solid bank sticks, a semi tight clutch and a running lead. As a fishing coach, I advocate simple rigs and simple techniques. This is adding complexity to a rig and it’s another piece of tackle added near a carp’s head. As a lake owner, there are too many safety concerns on different levels.
@@matthewcollinsangler couldn't have worded it any better matt. I agree with u on every point I've been using the shock and run set up you have a video about . Even tho I've never been snapped off in case of a failure which is rare for me as I check each knot I do I know that fish along with me using barbless will not trail and lead and what not. Fish safety comes first for me the longer that fish is staying healthy the bigger it's gonna grow
@@fr0sty_nugz Great to hear mate 👍
I have bait runners for spinning and dead baiting.... Best of both worlds
Hi,
I have a question about this video and another recent video.
In this video you say that you use a semi thight clutch instead of free spool most of the time. In one of your other videos you're also advocating that the running rig setup is almost your setup to go. Isn't this a bit in contrast? I mean, the running needs free line right?
Thanks for all the videos and insights!
Hi there, I can see why you might think it’s a contradiction… Running rigs are most effective when used with a semi tight clutch. I’m using the clutch and the elasticity of the mono to hook the fish. The running rig allows the lead to separate from the rig so that the carp can’t use the weight of the lead to throw the rig (this happens with a semi fixed setup / lead clip). I’ve used this method for 15 years and it’s extremely effective. If you use a running rig with a slack clutch, you won’t hook the carp and they can be gone by the time you get to the rod. Hope that helps 😊
Hi Mathew , after 20 years away from carp fishing ,I'm now looking to start back at it. Your channel is a fantastic place for information but i must admit the variety in line, weights, hooks ect, ect, is starting to get very confusing. Every time I go online to buy terminal tackle, I get lost with types and manufacturers ect and leave it for another day ! Any advice please ?
Keep the videos coming !
Hi Jack, glad you’ve found our channel and are enjoying it. What a great question! I totally get where you’re coming from, I had exactly the same experience when I got back into fishing.
I’m going to try and make it simple 😊
1. Choose a mainline between 0.35mm and 0.40mm. That covers most situations (pick a mainline based on diameter rather than breaking strain). 15lb Nash Bullet is 0.37 and that’s a great place to start.
2. Use your mainline for hooklink. 0.37mm mono makes great hooklink suitable for up to 70 yards.
3. Hooks: a short shanked, straight point, out turned eye hook is all you need (like the Nash twisters, size 6). Use barbless (if rules allow).
4. Just use the mono hair rig (ruclips.net/video/LzFina92brM/видео.html). You only need a hook bead to hold the knot in position. Make your hooklink 20cm long.
5. Use a running lead setup. Use: 1oz to 3oz lead (depending on range) and a buffer bead that’s compatible with rig tubing. I use the Nash heli sleeve without the bead (I show it here: ruclips.net/video/NzmQgIiwFI0/видео.html). The plastic ring and quick change clip are optional, you can just thread your lead onto the tubing. Use 50cm of rig tubing.
6. To attach your rig to your mainline, use a size 8 quick change swivel and a short anti tangle sleeve. Tie a loop at the end of your hooklink, hook it on the swivel and slide the anti tangle sleeve over the top to hold it in place (like I show here: ruclips.net/video/Z2Zh54emhS4/видео.html)
7. Use 18mm bottom baits with a hair stop. If you want some freebies next to your rig, use PVA mesh or PVA tape.
Hook sharpness is critical so change your hooks frequently. Pre-tie some rigs and swap them out during the session.
So your shopping list is: mainline, hook, hook bead, lead, buffer bead, rig tubing, hair stop, quick change swivel, short anti tangle sleeve.
Please let me know if this is of use. We may well do a video on this!
Thank you for the quick response.. I'll go through it a few times and make a shopping list and let you know how I get on.
Things look a little clearer and I'm not in as much of a panic as before ! 👍@@matthewcollinsangler
Hi mate, I’ve made this ‘shopping list’ based on our chat so that I can share it easily with others and I’ve added a couple of bits. Thought I’d share it with you.
Starter Carp Rig Bits: amzn.to/3R2uVNw
(If you buy through these affiliate links, we may earn a commission, price to you is the same)
Thanks Matthew . when you gave me the list I went out and bought a load of the equipment you recommended but not all of it , so any extra , Ill check this page first . ! @@matthewcollinsangler
Hi Matthew, having heard you say that there's never a situation where free spool facility is more useful and explain the reason too, I have some nice big pit free spool reels that I bought for mostly aesthetics but I want to make the most of them now. Their bait runner function is really quite loose even on the tightest setting. Do you have any recommendations on rigs or tactics that might lean into this loose free spool feature? I am aware such a thing might not exist but I really do want to make the most out of these reels. Kind regards
Ah right, that’s a shame. It’s also surprising that even when you tighten down the bait runner clutch setting it doesn't make much difference. The good news is that there is a really simple solution and one I have used with plenty of guests… just don’t use the bait runner facility. Okay it’s a waste because you paid for it but you’d be far better off ignoring it. I assume you have a large front drag clutch right? Just dial in on that and when you have a take, tighten or loosen appropriately. I just screw mine tight, flip the anti reverse off and it’s game on. Hope that helps 👍
@@matthewcollinsangler Thankyou Matthew, I will give this a go!
All about opinions,,but weight isn't a issue for me when they are sitting on rests most of the time and to say lost fish is astonishing I just my finger on the spool when striking no issues whatsoever.
Amazing video
Thanks very much 👍
I use gtm reels same principle works fir me
I just let it run with bait runner few more seconds then slowly reel and the action isnt as instant as you say. Ive never bumped fish and i been fishing for 20 years for carp.
I'm surprised there was no mention of line twist, regarding the use of bait runners 🤔
I didn’t specifically talk about it in this video because there’s no difference in terms of line twist between the two types of reel. If you fish with a loose clutch on a front drag reel you’ll suffer line twist just as badly as you would do on a bait runner style reel.
The Baitrunner does not cause hook pulls quite the opposite just set your drag up a little from the baitrunner to set the hook then adjustment the drag accordingly once the fish has been hooked. Simple
I do like playing a fish using backwinding, but i see so many allowing the reel to be free and using the spool to play the fish. The trouble is it can easily bump a fish off. The best way to control a fish's lunges is with the rod, this is keeping the tip high and the lunges are taken up in the tip bend, just reminding that playing a fish there is more things than just the reel to be taken in to consideration.
Spot on mate, thanks 😊
Best thing I have found to stop losing a fish at your feet is nash triggerlink as it has elastic in with the braid it works like a shock absorber no one uses it to that why it's so good with a running rig carp have no chance lol
The only issue with this nowadays is everyone is using 4lb test rods, cos that's what Dovey and Fairbrass use...
@48hughjars yeah paying 450 quid a rod for a 2008 daiwa infinite rods just with a korda sticker
@48hughjars I know and those that fish properly will know these assoles are only in it to sell gear. Bloody wankers are spoiling the sport. They put loads of bait in, buy exclusive waters to show off, still the basic good angler knows how to play and enjoy the battle for landing a fish.
Is there a difference between standard front drag and quick drag reels? I actually dont know if mine are quick or not
Hi mate, yes, there is. It’s to do with the speed at which the clutch can be adjusted from being fully locked up to free spool. Quick drag reels (generally) would take approx ½ of the front clutch knob to go from free spool to fully locked up. A front drag reel will require more turns but will give you more precision on the clutch setting because there are more increments. Personal preference 😊
I don’t believe it’s the transition that’s bumped them off as I’ve had this problem and I solved it.
1. Thé baitrunner is set too lose
2. Thé rig encourages a light hook hold
3. Lifting the rod changes the angle of the hook hold and it pulls out.
Solved if you tighten baitrunner, use rig that when it turns encourages a deep hooking and keep your tip low.
Et voilà pas problem 😉
great info vid
Thank you 👍
I've seen so many comments that people can't cope with a front drag and get all in a faf with it i don't know why when its just a single knob not 2 knobs and a switch the front drag is far better than baitrunner or back drag as you get far more pressure on the washers with a front drag most front drags are around 22kg of pressure locked up baitrunners are no where near
💯 Couldn’t agree more mate. Hope this video and comments like these help anglers consider the real benefits of quick drag reels. They’re also much better when you’re fishing near snags, or if you hook a 100lb catfish… I’ve seen guests get spooled out at my lake on small BR reels.
@matthewcollinsangler wow that madness this is why I can't stand baitrunners should not be used in carp fishing like you said we should be in control one we have a bite even though the rod isn't even in our hands also there is just more to go wrong with a baitrunner its just a gimmick imo but I see so many people think they know best they are the ones that don't fish safe at all the carp is the first and last thing though about in carp fishing all about profit margins now like I said on many carp tackle companies RUclips enjoy it while is last as now China has gave 236 mill in drones to Russia sanctions will come to China and the tackle industry will be the first to feel it as everything is made with cheap labour and materials in China now
Don't you know baitrunner reel have tension knob to precisely adjust how loose the freelining?
Nice reel where I can get one?
All my gear is readily available at most UK/European tackle shops or online.
Im after some new front drag reels, the question is shimano or diawa?
I've had both and I'd never go back to Daiwa. Most of my reels are Shimano Ultegra's. Few people are talking highly about the Okumas on my post here: www.youtube.com/@matthewcollinsangler/community
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks for the reply 🙏
Baitrunner gives you more choice you don't have to use the baitrunner where as the quick drag you have to keep adjusting it Each to their own
Thanks
Thanks mate, much appreciated ♥️
Circle hooks are best with these reels.
Hi there, I don’t use or recommend circle hooks for carp fishing. They are blunt with a very in turned point and they’re designed for predators, not carp. For carp fishing, I use a short shank straight pointed hook (Nash chod twister). Cheers, Matt
U can change the tightness on a bait runner anyway so I'm really confused what your on about 😂😂😂
Totally get that not everybody agrees, this is just my experience over the last 20 years with the reels I've used. The baitrunners I had can’t be locked up as tightly as I need, that's all.
Yep I’ll call bullshit ,of course it’s important to check the baitrunner ,no difference if you forget to loosen the front drag ,I’ve caught thousands of carp on bait runners so it just comes down to preference,so much tackle these days is just to con people into spending more ,had the same reels for 10 years with no issues,the only thing I would say is don’t waste your money on cheap gear as you will only end up buying decent gear eventually.
my Mitchel Match , passes all over these plastic reels
please comment
my 406 sometimes,
old school
I much prefer baitrunners to quick drags
This video makes no sense to me...2 clutches ie baitrunner plus the rear drag you can set to whatever you like...whats the difference over 1 quick drag ?? I've had both and can get on with either but baitrunners are my preference...no disadvantages whatsoever.
Allways used bait runners, never lost a fish on the take, ever, maybe at the bank, lol, use whatever makes you confident
I use both. Bait runners simply have more features and companies that don't make reels themselves (Nash, sonik, fox etc) struggle to make them reliable. Hence videos like this trying to convince us that they are not useful. The loosing fish on connection is absolute rubbish.
You want reel that is designed and made in house them get a Shimano (not budget ones), daiwa or okuma.
I can save you 10 mins of your life rather than watch this twaddle…. Fish whichever reel you like
😂😂👍
Another key board warrior 🙄
@ianharris9612 one that's right you doughnut but then you're obviously one that listens to pointless waffle I bet you was one of those mugs who had your jabs aswell 🤔 🤣🤣
@@ianharris9612 hardly bud ! This is just a click bait video which goes no where
@@mareusappare that waste for you mucker
Super slow osolation just means nylon gears.dont see anyone catfishing on the ebro or thialand with these daft front drag weak reels..and casting..terry has thecrecord with a 5500..people talk utter shit..that old baitrunner is better than anything new..he just doesnt know he hss nylon gears in the new crap ones
▶ Watch next: Have total confidence in your rod setup: ruclips.net/video/j_NSmA2CtQQ/видео.html
If you’re currently fishing with bait runner reels and you love them then great, but if you are considering changing reels I’d seriously recommend going for a fast drag or quick drag style next time, especially if you want to buy larger reels. For quite a few years I’ve been backwinding when I play fish and I know this isn't everyone's cup of tea but I love the amount of control it gives me. If you want to make a move towards backwinding then quick drag reels are ideal as I can choose exactly when and to what degree I lock up the spool. If I receive a savage take, I will slowly increase the drag to control the fish and only when it’s safe to do so will I fully lock the spool, switch off the anti reverse and play them on the handle. This technique takes time to master but once you get the hang of it, I doubt you’ll switch back.
You need to learn how to set up a baitrunner better.
you might want to look at the new big baitrunner it's a ci4 just like the ultegra. they weigh a whole lot less that the originals. and your understanding of the reels is wrong I've never lost any fish due to bait runners
💯 true. Imo if you close a quick drag its also a bump on the fish right? Both the same for a BR or a QD
Just use what YOU want