STOP Using Inline Leads Like This (Here’s WHY)
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2024
- I never use an inline lead straight out of the packet.
The problem with standard inline leads is that the carp can use the weight of the lead to throw the rig. On certain waters, it’s not an issue and you can catch plenty of carp. But when you go to a new water, with more pressured fish, or fewer carp, a standard inline lead setup can let you down. There are several ways to transform a standard inline lead. You can either convert it to a pure running rig, or there are options to create a trick setup that I’ve been using to fool carp for many years!
⏰ In this video:
00:00 Why I don’t use standard inline leads
04:50 The other problem when fishing inline leads
07:00 Simple modified inline lead - Option 1
09:13 Simple modified inline lead - Option 2
10:33 Trick inline lead - Fishing naked
15:58 Trick inline lead - Leadfree leader
17:57 Trick inline lead - Rig tubing
► The gear and tackle I use: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/matthew...
► Beausoleil Carp and Cats (my lake in France)
www.frenchcarpandcats.com/
(When available, we use affiliate links and may earn a commission)
This channel is supported by Nash but I am in charge of the content of each video and only use products I have total confidence in.
#matthewcollins #carpfishingexplained 
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This is a cracking bit of advice. I think I would grease my anti tangle sleeves with a bit of hemp oil to make sure the inline flies off on first shake 👍🎣🐟
Fantastic video Matt, been thinking about this stuff a lot over the last year since your running rig video and I'm so glad you made a full video on the topic. I've found lots of problems when using a squeezed-down swivel, bead, etc, because even if you press the lead into it with the right amount of force on the bank, a hard cast at long range can press it in even further and it again becomes a semi-fixed rig. I haven't ever seen those inline inserts you used around the 16 minute mark, but I'm in love! You can't overpress them so this issue is resolved even on the longest of casts. Thanks so much for the idea!
Great to hear that mate. Those little inserts are the Nash tungsten inline lead inserts. They weren't designed for what I'm doing here, they're designed for use with a drop-off style inline lead, but they work great like this! And they solve this change of fit issue on a big cast with a big lead 👍
For anyone looking for an out of the box in-line system that works like @Matthew Collins exemplified, you can look for the Fox Edges Kling On leads and pair them with Fox Tadpole inserts.
The Tadpole insert allows for 2 types of fixation methods on the lead, one that is very stiff that sometimes doesn't properly eject the lead when the carp shakes and one that is semi-stiff which helps just enough with hooking but ejects when the carp shake.
Thanks for the tip 👍
What do you mean by the two types of fixation methods? How do you do one or the other, is it how hard you push it on or some other thing you have to do to switch between? I want to do the semi-stiff one which is just enough to hook, do I press it on lighter?
@@crazycarpguy1074 yeah, it is related to how deep you push the tadpole insert into the lead. If you push it lightly up to the first section(not going all the way through) it should behave like a shocker rig and release easily.
@@crazycarpguy1074 Hi. I use Fox inline leads with the tadpole inserts, they're are quite soft and supple unlike the hard inserts that come with the leads. There's soft flap of plastic near the base which pops the insert into the lead and stays there snuggly but will pop out easily when needed. The swivel from your hook link fits into the insert perfectly without being too tight and generally come out before the insert. The set up provides the perfect mechanics for a bolt effect which then becomes free running. I use PVA solid bags quite a lot and the tadpoles are perfect. You can even fit rig tubing into the end (cut the tubing on a slight angle and in it fits). Well worth a try.
Thanks for the advice Matt with the shot of the camera next to the rod I tried turning the sensitivity up on the delcim when I new the fish were going sideways and managed to solve the problem but i will still use your tip!
Great advice. Last year i used a similar setup with pva bag stems. You can drill out the inline lead so the stem pops out with a known force turning the rig into a running rig when the carp shakes its head. It also works with tubing.
Cool, great solution 👍
I’ve noticed Korda dark matter leaders stop the leads at the fused end part. I think I’ve lost fish because of this ? Also issues with pva tape stopping the lead running ? How tight should the clutch be ? I’m not sure it should be super tight ?
@@CB-zr9fi Hi mate, I don’t use the Korda fused leaders anymore but when I did I remember them to be quite stiff so I can see that on certain leads this could be a major problem if they won’t pass cleaning over the fused loop at the end (very dangerous!). I know that certain makes of PVA are slow to melt (especially in cold weather). I’ve been using the Nash fast melt for a few years now and I’d never had an issue with PVA “snot” but then again my rigs do stay in the water for quite a while. I set my clutch to deliver 1 - 2lbs of force to the rig but to do this you need a really solid bankside setup. Just set it so that even with a really savage take the rod does not go in. Hope that helps, Cheers, Matt.
Great easy to follow instructional video....thankyou for doing this 👍👍👍
Plastic tulip beads with thick walled silicone tubing over the thinner part have done the business for me since the 80's, the silicone can be pushed together to make it harder to release or stretched to make it easier.
The tulip bead won't pull inside the lead like the swivel with an anti-tangle sleeve over it, someone could jam the swivel inside the lead doing this with a hard cast and potentially leave a fish trailing tackle with the lead still attached.
Cheers for that. There are various different ways of achieving this, these are the few that I'm familiar with.
Yep agree with that too similar principal once again no fandangled over the top science it just works and has stood the test of time
Another great tutorial Matt, pleasure to watch. Take care 👍👍
Thanks very much mate 😊
Thank you Matthew, this is super helpful. I'm off to France in a few weeks and was likely to use the 'classic' inline set up. Rules require tubing, so will certainly use the last option you demonstrated. Fingers crossed!
Cool, have a great trip mate 🇫🇷
I had one of my best 72 hour sessions using an inline lead set up in silt, short hook link and using stick. All the things you’re told not to do. I found that the hooking properties meant the takes was savage and they hooked quickly and bolted. They never moved let or right slowly as per the video. I had 7 fish, lost 2.
I use Fox inline leads with the tadpole inserts, they're are quite soft and supple unlike the hard inserts that come with the leads. There's soft flap of plastic near the base which pops the insert into the lead and stays there snuggly but will pop out easily when needed. The swivel from your hook link fits into the insert perfectly without being too tight and generally come out before the insert. The set up provides the perfect mechanics for a bolt effect which then becomes free running. I use PVA solid bags quite a lot and the tadpoles are perfect. You can even fit rig tubing into the end (cut the tubing on a slight angle and in it fits). Well worth a try.
Great to hear, thanks for sharing 👍
thank you Matthew...you bring me back into my 90s as i started carp fishing...great.
Nice 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler i mean your ideas are in those times of carp "angling" really ESSENTIAL...
Great video as ever! Do you think the force of the cast pulls the insert in tighter in some circumstances and makes it more difficult for it to pull out when you get a take?
Yes, it's a problem if you use the silicon tail rubber. To avoid this problem, use the Nash tungsten inline lead insert (it has a shoulder which stops it from being pulled in) 👍
I always pinch down the swivel when using an inline lead. I like using the hermit rig when using inline leads. Good indication if youve been done too cause the maker elastic would be detached
I use inline flatbed feeders for tench a lot. I now carefully see how snug the fit is with the swivel. If needed (and so far it always is) I open up the inside of the insert so that after a maximum of three shakes the swivel comes loose. My hookup rate has increased as has my bite indication, I tend to use semislack lines. I think I have only had one fish pivot on me and give almost no indication, I suspect that the silkweed prevented the swivel from coming away easily. Some of the tench have no idea what to do once that hook is set and just sit there after a few beeps! Most give great runs and the swivel and feeder have separated. Anyway, once again great advice that with a little thought can be adapted to other species. You have really given me a lot to work with over this past year targeting tench. Thanks!
That's awesome to hear mate, yes, a lot of the work I do is applicable to other species, I've caught some big roach, rudd and chub on my carp rigs 👍
Whatever i use, inline or leadclip, i modify it like that, just to have a free run.. stoper for inline, for leadclip i just sqeeze a bit the swiwel.
This is a great advice!
OK, good to hear 👍 You mention squeezing the swivel on a lead clip so that the lead clip body rides up the line, it’s something I would never do as it could be a safety risk, I talk about this in this video: ruclips.net/video/a6WI6Y1o_Xk/видео.html
@@matthewcollinsangler do you do anything else to hinder the lead from moving up towards your rod and thus making drilling harder?
@@marcohundINV Hi, no I don't, you shouldn't put anything above the lead.
thank you so so much Matthew...... again time after time.... such amazing videos and knowledge ...thank you
Really great to hear mate, thanks 😊
Fantastic explained and demonstrated the safe way to use in-line lead set-ups great video set-ups that turn in to running rigs definitely carp more effective at catching carp 👍🏻🎣🎣🎣
Great to hear you're already a fan of these setups 😊
I was out Thursday Friday night and always fish bags drop off style but I was getting bream so switched to semi fixed. What your explaining now with the single beeps I thought may have been liners but as I was using semi fixed I could have been getting done. Great video mate 😁👍🏻
Cool mate, hopefully this gives you some options to try maybe on another session 👍
I've used inline leads fairly similar to this since the late 90s but I put the tail rubber on first,slide the swivel into the rubber,put the tubing on and then slide the lead down on to the back of the tail rubber which fits lovely on most leads.
The carp comes in to contact with the lead setting the hook and then is almost free running instantly.
I don't use inline's for any distance fishing though so I can see the benefits of having some sort of tubing behind the lead if I did 👍
Hello Matt, as usual a great and interesting video. Since I was at Beausoleil, this has become my basic setup for the venues we fish at the moment. Thanks again for all your great advice. Btw: my buddy landed 2 weeks ago a very beautiful 20+kg fish using this system.
Wow, that's awesome 👏
Whats the difference? It may be a little easier to shake off? Big wow
Matt, how would you combine PVA bag quick change and the last rig tubing/ tail rubber setup in the video? Cheers. Appreciate your videos and already using some of your rigs as well as scaled down versions of your rigs for other course fishing.
Hi there, I don’t use and wouldn’t attempt to use solid PVA bags with rig tubing. It’s slow and complicated. If you have to use tubing, use a PVA stick 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks Matt, thought as much
This is a little over complicated, IMHO, however, it does start you thinking.
I just drilled out my leads with a 5.5mm and 3,5mm drill bit and then used a tidy boom. This works perfectly, and I have found two different types, Flouro and Metal. I tend to use the Gemini Tidy booms as they are Flouro and more flexible.
As an added one, and to reduce costs, you could also use a XL anti-snag as shown in this video.
Tight Lines Anglers
Matt, great video as usual. What are those inline lead inserts you are using towards the end of the video, and where can I buy them. Best, Leigh.
Hi Leigh, they are the Nash tungsten inline lead inserts: www.nashtackle.co.uk/en/tackle/terminal-tackle/lead-clips-lead-attachement/tungsten-inline-lead-insert-1/
if i use a standard run rig and use the tension in line and reel clutch to set the hook, would it still be ok to use back leads? Thanks
Would there be any benefit to use a back lead with this system? Great video cheers
TBH mate it doesn't matter. You can use this lead system with a tight line, slack line, semi slack, or back lead.
Can i ask what silicone tubing did you use for inserting into the inline lead please?
Hi, you can use any rig tubing you like as long as it's compatible with the tail rubber 😊
I use fox inline leads with fox tadpole inserts ,great setup caught loads on it 🎣👍
Cool, that's been mentioned by a few people, good to know it works 👍
I use them too. They do exactly what you want, great bit of kit!
What size is the inline lead on the last method? I was thinking of using a 4oz so the heavy weight helps set the hook on pick up and then helps drop the lead from the tail rubber quickly?
Hi mate, in this video I used either 3 or 3.5oz leads. With these trick running inline rigs, I’m not using the weight of the lead to hook the carp. Watch this video to understand how it works: ruclips.net/video/ckzalwJuh0c/видео.htmlsi=lJdozKYCeRzTzdbb
Personally, I would only use a 4oz lead with a 3.5oz TC rod and I’d only do it if I had to drop rigs from a rowing boat in high winds. You do not need 4oz leads to catch carp in still water in most circumstances.
So what setup do you tend to use inline lead or swivel lead running rig thanks
It depends what I'm doing, here's a quick overview: ruclips.net/user/shorts24xzm6I5gWk?feature=share
I learned so much from you over the years. Love your videos.
Wouldn't pva bag stem work the same way? When carp lifts up the lead it creates lever and pressure on the hook, but if he starts moving it slides off the stem.
Thanks for the feedback mate.
So it all depends on the fit of the PVA bag stem. The ones I've seen are too tight a fit but if you can find one that works nicely or modify the diameter of the hole in the lead, then that's an option 👍
Added to matts reply I drill the inline lead until the stem just holds and loses grip with the familiar donk matt describes it works great pal
@Simon-ms6sb Yea same, i have leads and stems from avid carp and had to drill every lead to make them work as you described. (few min work) I was amazed by Matt answer because he nailed it.
In fact i dint do it for the better effect that Matt was talking about, i did it because it seemed unsafe for fish, lead was just too tight around the stem. But im glad i fish with bags right even if by luck.
@@Taurgar 🤣🤣 funny you say that I also found out by accident I like you really wasn't happy about how tight the stems stayed in my leads so drilled them out then once I'd done so it was a total fluke and I realised it works as matt describes
Hi matt. i see you put the inline lead outside of pva bag. do you always do this?
Hi mate, it depends... If I'm using solid PVA bags, the lead would go inside the bag. If I'm using PVA mesh, then I'm happy for the PVA mesh and lead to remain separate. I think in this video, we photographed the bag separately from the lead because I was doing a parachute bag at the time.
Are you able to show us any tips and tricks for splicing leaders? i have the 40lb cling on nash and i am struggling to splice any help would be greatful
Hi mate, I've done a full video on leaders: ruclips.net/video/WiqE4u35MK8/видео.html. About 5mns in, I show how to splice the Nash cling on leader, I get on very well with it so hopefully this will help you out 👍
@@matthewcollinsangler I have no idea how i ever missed this video from you thank you exactly what i was looking for!
@@barbyizbeast 😊 👍
With regard to not pushing the tail rubber in too far, this may prove problematic when fishing at range as the thump of the cast and the hit of the line clip will both drive the tail rubber in further. Great for up to 50 yards or so, not sure if the lead will release as easy if cast at distance.
You are absolutely correct and that is why I began using the Nash inline lead inserts for this setup as the 90° shoulder prevents the insert being drawn into the lead and changing the delicate fit that I’m looking to achieve.
You should try how the “ carp catcher” does his shock and run inline lead set up best I’ve found , by far
What brand is the veined rubber lead insert. Thanks
It's the Nash tungsten inline lead insert: www.nashtackle.co.uk/en/tackle/terminal-tackle/lead-clips-lead-attachement/tungsten-inline-lead-insert-1/
Hello Matt. Do you happen to do any float fishing on your lake Matt?
Virtually no-one float fishes for carp here. I only know two anglers in 13 years that have done it and been successful. I used to love float fishing for carp (it’s how I started!) but it’s not something I've done for years. The last time I float fished at the lake was for roach. Great fun too.
Brilliant Matt thanks 🎉
Thanks for the feedback mate 😊
Seems like there is always going to be a trade off of bite detection/lead being shaken free vs bolt effect from the lead?
I have fished running leads for 15 years and encouraged all my guests to do the same. I used to worry about having some kind of bump/shock effect with all my running lead systems but in more recent years I’ve realised that you don’t actually need to do this. Since I made this video, I’ve mostly fished pure running leads, no shock effect and I’ve caught loads of carp. It’s a myth that you absolutely need to create a bolt effect. It’s just not necessary with a nice sharp hook 😉
Great advice again thankyou Matt im not getting into the super science someone has commented about water being so many nano millions times denser blah blah im not clever enough to take on that dispute all i do know is when i use the inline insert or drill my leads so my pva bag stems work in the same way you demonstate with a single donk.....my pva fishing improved and my catch rate increased thats all i need to know secondly my opinion is i dont feel that carp fishing needs to get so scientific keep doing these vids a lot of us appreciate them
That's really great to hear mate, appreciate the feedback and support 👍 and I know a rig doesn't behave in the water as it does in the air, I was swinging it quite freely there lol, but the results are the same, and as you say, this works. And the underwater videos have shown us over the years what the carp can do to our leads!
@@matthewcollinsangler precisely
I.ve learned so much from you, cant thank you enough, sir! Had a day ticket today and put 3 carp just under 15lb on the mat along with maybe 15 more fish around 6-7lb mark (aparently the biggest fish in the lake is 24lb or so, so im quite proud of myself). Tied up some rigs like you did in a recent video and im sold, thats my go-to from now on, thank you!
However, as someone slowly transitioning from coarse fishing towards the speci..I would like to know more about how you go about prepping your baits. Do you use the same boilies for the feed as well as hookbaits (maybe just flavoured differently?). Im just a bit confused as I didnt really see ' bottom hook boilies' at my local tackle shop..just wafters and pop ups..which im slowly getting tired of😬 thanks!
Hi mate, glad you’ve been able to use some of my tips and congrats on your recent successes 👏. There’s no need to make carp fishing any more complicated than it needs to be. I just use a good quality boilie for both jobs, feed and hookbait. Scopex Squid has caught me hundreds of carp over the years and that’s pretty much all I use. With a high quality food bait like this you don’t need to use it in large volumes unless you are fishing in flowing water. To keep costs down, make up some PVA stringers for whole baits or crush it down to make a crumb stick. I also like to dip it in some Scopex Squid spod syrup for extra attraction but it’s optional because the carp love the bait as is. Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt.
Matt, always such sound advice 🎉. I fish cats with a ceramic run rig system over rig Marole tubing. Maybe a dumb question but what is the advantage (if any) of an inline led system over a free running run rig? TIA.
Hi mate, I did test the Rig Marole tubing but I stopped using it for a number of reasons. Nowadays I prefer a soft lead free leader (Nash cling-on in 40lbs or 65lb for the cats). For me, the choice between inline and swivel based lead systems comes down to the choice of hooklink. I don’t like using supple materials (such as the 25 - 35lbs Armourlink) with a swivel based running lead. It's prone to tangling basically. I find an inline is better when working with supple materials. When I’m using heavy mono (0.50 - 60) heavy duty snag leader as a hooklink, then tangles aren't an issue so I can use whatever I need. I might still use an inline but if I’m doing short day sessions then inline leads are a pain so It’s quicker and easier to use a running ledger on a ring with a clip. Also, if fishing over rocks then I wouldn't use an inline as I need to create a rotten bottom using a swivel lead. This is my go-to, take anywhere setup for a running ledger: instagram.com/p/CsoJFuBMfH7/?img_index=1
I hope that helps 👍
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks so much, appreciated
I use the Fox Edges Run Ring Kit with Camo Tubing, used this for years and ive fished it all ways...Zig, PVA Bag, Standard as it comes....Popnups, Wafters, Bottom Baits, dont think i will ever swap 👍👍
Good stuff 👍
This may sound stupid but would that not damage the mainline when it brushes against the bare lead
Hi mate, I understand your concern but anglers have been using these simple inline running lead systems like this for 13 years at my lake with zero issues. Water is a natural lubricant and the leads run up and down the mainline under water without causing any damage whatsoever.
I just make the original inside plastic of the inline lead a bit thinner. Do it with a sharp knive end I get the same result. Little shake and the lead is off.
where do i get this beads you show us at Minute 16:30? i only find one from Fox but thats fox and i dont like this brand :D
Hi mate, I believe you are referring to the Nash Tungsten inline lead insert. They work well with the Nash and Korda leads but not the Fox ones 👍
Could you just crimp and use a silicon spray on the round flat part of the swivel
Hi, I don’t use crimps and I don't trust them because I’ve seen too many failures at my lake (we have cats to 135 lbs!) I would never advocate using silicon on a piece of terminal tackle that you intend to cast into a lake or river because it’s a pollutant.
So is this the inline lead sytem you use with the deadly D-Rig?
You can use this with the deadly D-Rig but only when fishing over a really hard gravel spot. When I’m using the deadly D-rig I normally use a swivel based running lead system (there’s a video due out on this soon). With inline leads, I mostly use supple braided rigs made from 25lbs Armourlink as they sit nicely over any substrate (soft or hard).
Korda says use two beads and a tapered sleeve? I think it doesn’t work properly with Korda dark matter fused leaders as it doesn’t always run through the other tapered end ? Think it’s best with lead free braided leader , because you know it will run freely.
Hi mate, not sure what you are referring to re. Korda. I don’t use the Korda fused leaders anymore but when I did I remember them to be quite stiff so I can see that on certain leads this could be a major problem if they won’t pass cleaning over the fused loop at the end (very dangerous!) Nowdays I use the Nash Cling-on (40lbs) which is a lead free leader material that’s very supple, very abrasion resistant and easy to splice 👍
@@matthewcollinsangler yes I’m going for that. Once the lead hits that fused leader the fish can twist away off the hook ? I keep getting done with the fused leaders for some reason
@@CB-zr9fi Hmm, at that distance I’m not sure that the carp could use the weight of the lead against you but it’s never a good idea to have a restriction such as this on an inline line anyway so it’s a problem that needs addressing. You could just drill out the lead to make the hole larger. As long as it flies over the loop, the problem should go away. If you are still getting done then it can only be down to the hook or the rig (potentially both). As long as you are using the exact components that I use in any of my rig videos, and the rig suits the type of fishing you are doing and you are inspecting/changing your hooks very regularly then there shouldn't be an issue.
I normally crimp the swivel in to get the sweet spot where a head shake releases the lead but might try the tail rubber trick.
Cool 👍
Water is 800 times denser that air, so the demonstration of the swinging lead at the start, isn’t representative of the under water environment, and of course, this overall observation is purely anecdotal, ie, you don’t have any footage that supports this perspective 👍
Exactly
Dr carp forgot it works different under water 😅
Absolute rubbish its anecdotal. There is a ton of videos out there showing the lead swinging. Might not be as free as he is showing but he's 100% correct.
Here we have a guy giving an amazingly clear example yet you just have to don't you? You're the problem with the human race.
All I know is we've been catching carp since the early 80s on a split cane rod and a Mitchell match reel with an Arlesey bomb on and a standard hair rig simplicity in itself back in the day obviously times change my gear has improved significantly but I'm still not convinced of the need for this level of scientific tripe just my opinion I heard a top korda angler say recently how he cuts the ring off a ring swivel due to weight saving rig mechanics 😅😅😅 never heard anything so ludicrous
I don’t think he’s actually trying to show you exactly what happens under water, just emphasising what happens when you use a standard inline lead and the potential of indication. Vs if you tweak things a little, you can make something more sensitive or tweak towards your fishing needs.
Common sense would dictate, having a weight that is supported, to a degree this happens in water - you can use momentum and inertia to get you out of a situation. Now, I’m not a fish but I’m sure where waters have seen hookbaits, it would be foolish to assume that certain fish haven’t got wise or learned tricks to slip the hooks every now and then.
All this shows is that you can have the same rig but limit the ability to use any advantage or present something in practice that looks the same but in mechanics or application is different.
I like this method, been a huge fan. Not for anything mentioned in this video, but for me, I see a world of bolt rigs. This is semi fixed and I love the idea of a more sensitive set up, giving me more signs that I’ve got something and less option for the fish to use my rig against me.
But, that’s just me. Fishing is horses for courses. Personally, if I could get away with it everytime, running rig and a simple hair rig for me.
Not saying you're wrong but he clearly demonstrated that his methods make the swivel exit the lead easier than the traditional way. So obviously if it's working better in air it will also do so under water as well
But they still have the length of the rig around the lead just as they would with a lead clip it all comes down to what way they dart off
Surely the abrasive edges from the lead would damage the mono over time.
We’ve been using in-line leads at the fishery for 14 years and I’ve not once seen an instance where the lead has caused abrasion damage to the mainline. Lead is quite a soft material so there’s nothing to worry about on that front. Obviously that doesn't mean to say you shouldn't check your mainline regularly for damage. Our venue is a bit rocky and damages the mainline quite quickly so cutting back the damaged line is a regular thing anyway. Swapping to a swivel based lead system does not solve the line damage problem, so it’s got nothing to do with the inline leads.
I get your point but you haven't taken into account of the water resistance on the main line an as someone else pointed out, water is denser than air so the rig wont act the same in the water
Yes, I was free swinging the lead a bit enthusiastically lol and it’ll behave differently in water but the result is the same. If you watch the underwater films, you see the leads thrown out like this.
For what is actually that leadcore ?
The leader I’m using in this video is Nash Cling-on (40lbs). It’s a lead free leader material that is very supple, very abrasion resistant and easy to splice. I no longer use leadcore in my fishing.
@@matthewcollinsangler Didn't know there was a difference. Is it reccomended by you to use it on a gravil-rich area?
@@invaliduser1111 You can use an inline lead over any bottom type as long as you use the right hooklink. For hard gravel spots I use a semi stiff mono rig (such as my deadly D-rig: ruclips.net/video/Rr4paU5B_r4/видео.htmlsi=d54WqXeUZfQNIpwi)
But a supple rig like this also works: ruclips.net/video/7VlmNHg0BD0/видео.htmlsi=kbpb2aqcTYI1Xz_H
For softer spots, inline leads still work and I tend to use a supple rig. Semi stiff mono rigs can be made to work over softer spots with inline leads if you use a relatively small lead (2oz - 50g)
tried this in my fish tank and the lead doesnt drop off very easy when submerged, obviously gravity is doing its work out of the water which makes it drop in 1 or 2 shakes like yours in this video but in the water its a different case mate.
Hi mate, I get what you're saying, that's because there are differences of fit depending on the exact materials you use so it’s a good idea to test the combination before fishing. The setups I show in the video have been working for me and many hundreds of guests over 14 years at my lake so I’ve got total confidence in them.
Do big fish actually use the weight to remove the hook ? Or is fish lost due to poor hook hold in a large soft mouth? Basically a tear out !!
Yes, absolutely. Carp of any size can use the weight of the lead to throw the hook out. Don’t confuse a hook pull with the carp getting away with it before you even pick up the rod. For me they are two separate scenarios.
@@matthewcollinsangler thank you , would you suggest dropping the weight when having to use barbless hooks ?
@@rickphillips5098 Hi Rick, I’m against dumping leads in any situation, it’s expensive, wasteful and bad for the environment. It’s also unnecessary unless the weed is very bad. I’ve been using running leads and barbless hooks for years and so have my customers. If the hook is sharp, then you will not suffer hook pulls on barbless hooks. Here’s some more videos to watch on that subject:
ruclips.net/video/yPDZV9xY_UA/видео.htmlsi=Yze-lSevbEN4t3wU
ruclips.net/video/v4CFoheE1S8/видео.htmlsi=_CxPsbDBsTXfiC4j
@@matthewcollinsangler thank you i will have a look . Knowledge is power and using yours im very greatfull for .
Done this for a while ..I use tulip beads not a buffer ...
Sure, that's another good option 👍
Anyone got a good quick change pva bad video new to fishing
Hi mate, here's a full detailed video on my PVA bag rig: ruclips.net/video/TPCvErlGGZ0/видео.html
Been doing it like this for the last 15 years
Great to hear, I made the switch about a dozen years ago and these setups have been very popular with my guests as well.
Never heard so much shit lol. I use inclines with iq2 and a Ronnie. Out of my last 10 bites I've had 1 hook pull
or could u just not shove the swivel in so far into the led so its not as hard to pull it out but really good tip anyway
Yes you can just nip a swivel into the end of the plastic insert but it’s only okay to do so if you are lowering a rig down onto a soft spot, at close range using a bait boat, bushwacker or rowing boat (or if you are fishing at half a wrap). If you do as you suggest, when you cast the lead, it will be forced much tighter onto the swivel and change the way it works. It gets even worse if you are casting onto a rock hard spot as the swivel will get smashed into the rocks/gravel first. It’s much safer to use one of the other options I’ve suggested 👍
See your nash t-shirt has done the same as mine the neck stretches out but the body and arms shrink
So if you get a bite and it don’t hook, you’ve lost your chance because you’ve lost your lead weight to hook the fish with
You don't lose the lead with a running rig, if you want to know more about why they are so effective, watch this video: ruclips.net/video/ckzalwJuh0c/видео.html
You try to get an edge in carp fishing! And then someone plasters it all over RUclips 😂😂😂
Oops sorry mate 😂😂!
Bloke talks absolute bollocks 30m away lmao noddy
A multi rig with an inline set up though..Ooof 👌🏼