The hair rig is an absolute classic and to be honest, it’s all we really need to catch a carp or three. One of its many benefits is that it’s easy to tie but there are still plenty of pitfalls to avoid along the way. Some of these mistakes will make the rig virtually useless but I’ve included other more subtle choices that won’t necessarily stop you from catching carp (when they are in a generous mood), but sometimes, when the going gets tough, I’ve found that fixing these can bring about a rapid change in fortune, even when it looks like it’s going to be a blank session. Hope this gives you food for thought.
Reduce the options for failure, increase the chance for success. Simple is the way to go, and key to this. Sometimes, as anglers, WE make it too complcated for ourselves when we don't have to.
I’ve fished for many years Matthew and still I’ve learnt a lot more and caught quite a few more gooduns from watching you’re uploads,so thank you. Tightlines for this year Matthew,all the best 🎣
@@matthewcollinsanglerthanks for the reply Matthew,looking forward to the videos this year to see how you get on at the lake and see the growth in the new fish, Tightlines 🎣
Hi matt , thanks again for these informative videos. The angling community appreciate you taking the time to make us better anglers and inturn help us put more fish on the bank . 👍🏻
Learnt so much from that matt in fact I'm going to check my ready made rigs to see that they hang straight,I would bet that those companies that make these for sale have not thought of this and is costing us missed fish and lost fish. Well done to you!
I always stick an anti-tangle sleeve on the swivel as well - helps push the bait away from the lead for a shorter hooking time to convert more pickups into bites. Prevents tangles too!
9:35 great tip a few people could get that wrong and not even notice, for me I use a hook bead to kick the hair out like you did in your " killer hair rig " video 👍🏾
Paused the video at 27:34, while you were showing us tying the bait loop, BUT....I have a suggestion....match anglers use a loop-tyer to tie uniform loops in their rigs, and they will definitely be big enough for a boilie stop, and will sit inside most baits, when completed. Adding one of these to your tackle box will help those anglers with sausage fingers or dexterity difficulties or vision problems. They will work with braid and mono, and with hooklink materials in the higher diameters that big-fish anglers use. With a hair rig, what we are effectively doing is increasing the gape of the hook. What we're doing is increasing the distance between the point and the shank (directly opposite, horizontally) so that it becomes less than the distance between hook-point and the eye (where the pivot point from the hook-link is). Increase the gape, increase the chances of the hook turning over and grabbing. Simple.
Hmm, never heard or seen such a thing TBH mate. I know that some anglers find it hard to tie a simple overhand loop knot as I’ve watched them struggle but TBH if they can’t do that then I’m not sure giving them a tool is going to help but I’d be happy to be proved wrong! Thanks for sharing the idea. Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsanglerSensas, Preston Innovations and Ringer Baits all do them. With Sensas being French, you should have no problems finding them in the local magasin du peche. Sensas Loop Tyer.
32:15 I completely understand the importance in getting the most amount of rigs per spool of hooklink material, however, I am a perfectionist when it comes to rigs - I construct every one of them fit to be mounted in a case on my wall! I’d rather cut off 10cm extra material and tie a two-turn figure of 8 loop so I know it’s going to be fishing the same way when I change rigs after a fish. Does the 3cm length difference make any odds? Probably not. Does it make me happy and confident? Yes. It’s more of a principle thing rather than me believing it’s actually going to make any real difference. If I ensure every single part of my rig is how I want it (sharp, straight, undamaged, etc.), THEN I believe I will catch more carp. Just like you have said before, carp fishing is all about tiny percentages adding up in your favour!
Fantastically explained these videos are excellent for new people starting carp angling and even experience carp anglers that have had a brake in carp fishing for a while these videos are great to refresh everything thank you Matthew for making these in depth videos Happy Carp Fishing and Tight Lines Always 🎣🎣🎣
Not just for carp anglers. As a returning match angler, I found the details in this and many of Matt's videos very useful. Too many anglers ignore rig mechanics, and the tiniest of changes or details can make a positive impact - marginal gains, and all those buzz-words.
Thanks for making my sunday a bit more enjoyable matt i have been doing something different now for 3 years been using hook clips so i can just swap my hook not the full rig any more and for pop ups i can get them so close to the bottom far better than a ronnie
Very good video as usually Matt and everything explained in a very good way 👍. We all have our favorite rig’s and we all tie them the way we favor most. I always leave a very long hair of at least 10 cm with no loop. Only if I know what hookbait I’ll use I tie a loop so it’s exactly the size I want. And like you I will always make sure that the knot is trapping the bait(s) so it can’t slide up the hair towards the hook. On the other end of the rig I don’t put on a swivel but I tie a loop which I can put on a kwicklink or a big loop which I can loop onto the swivel attached to my leader. I also like to use a rig ring on the shank of the hook and a line aligner. I really believe using this additions provides a much better hookhold than without them. Looking forward to your next video!
Suggestion....tie the loop, but don't tie the hook onto the line, and don't tie on the swivel at the other end until you know what bait your using, and what size of bait you're using. You could even add the blowback tube onto the hook, pending completion. Rig cases will hold partly made rigs these days.
Thanks very much for sharing your thoughts. I also attach many of my rigs with loops to a quick change swivel and keep it in place with a short tungsten anti tangle sleeve but in this video I just focused on the mistakes I see when anglers are doing something simple such as tying directly to a swivel.
Excellent stuff, very entertaining and helpful! I exclusively use a semi-stiff hook link vs supple. I just have a hard time tying rigs with supple links but still plan to use these tips! Hopefully these will still apply especially with our not as educated American carp! 😅
Great! I have total confidence and success with the simple rigs I show on this channel. I've met plenty of anglers who struggle with tying their own rigs with supple braid and this 'blow back multi' rig is perfect for this, tie it once, re-use the hooklink and just keep changing the hooks: ruclips.net/video/7VlmNHg0BD0/видео.html
Great video Matt! I have been missing the in depth longer video’s were you go into detail 😊 I was wondering if you could make a vid someday of how to correctly spool your braided spool/spodding rod and are you also curious about the new lines of Nash? The 0.45 armour mono seems pretty interesting to me!
Thanks mate! Funny you should ask... I re-spooled my marker rod a few weeks ago and we made a video of it, not quite sure when it'll be out, we've got quite a few in the pipeline 😊 Haven't tried the new Nash lines yet.
Very interesting and made me think again but lm very much in the mind to trust what l know has worked but l haven’t fish abroad much or for large cats so it would be a consideration if l was fish over 50 on shaggy clam crusted lake beds you want heavy strong rigs that won’t just hook the zoo creatures but also get them to the net ! Bravo keep them coming!
Grate advice as always well explained video only thing I'd say is you could use a better pair of sissers lol. I bet most of us has made most of these mistakes. At some time
I have a question. Why do you tie your rigs on the swivel? I use a figure 8 loop with an anti tangle sleeve. By using the loop it is for me more easy to get the lenght of the rig perfect.
Hi, yes, I use a loop knot as well to make the connection to a quick change swivel and if you watch some of my other videos you’ll see me do that in some of them. The focus of this video was on mistakes I see on the bank and using a blood knot with braided hooklink is not a good idea if you are targeting large carp or catfish. Cheers, Matt.
Hi Mathew after watching your vids I decided to try out the Nash chods as I’m fishing for fish up to 50lb with a lot of margin snags, bushes sunken trees left right and I’m so impressed with their strength, v sharp for wire gauge as well. Do you have any opinions on their longshanks or longshank hooks in general? I hear a lot about hook pulls and mouth damage but no experience
Hi mate. I have tested the longshanks in a size 8 with a very fine mono known as zig flo. Although they worked for me in the situation I was using, I wasn't comfortable using a size 6 or even a 4 because of how long they become and extra length means extra leverage which can lead to mouth damage as you mention. For the type of fishing you are doing, the eye size of a size 8 will be too small for the materials required so I can’t recommend them to you. I use the size 6 nash chod Twister for 90% of my fishing. I also use the standard Twister version if I’m using a supple material like Armourlink. I use the chod Twister in a size 6 for river carping for very powerful carp in flowing water or even for banking monster catfish, those little size 6’s can literally do it all. If you prefer a beaked point and like a wide gape pattern then I’d look at the Nash claw in a size 6. Heavier wire gauge but still a very sharp point. Wide gape, short shank, mega strong. The size 6’s are large. The 4’s are massive! I use the size 6 chod claw for use with heavy duty multi rigs made from 35 lbs Skinlink. The material is very abrasion resistant and strong. Doubled over you need the larger eye size of the size 6 chod claw to handle it but a size 4 chod Twister also works 👍 I did get a pack of the Brute hooks to have a look at but the wire gauge is huge! You could literally tow a truck in one of them 🤣 Just not necessary in my opinion.
How do you stop braid such as the Armourlink from tangling? I've tried this rig a few times and every-time bring it back its gone around the lead clip or just a mess in general. It's fine with Skinlink and other alternative skinned hooklinks.
Hi mate, sorry to hear that you are having trouble but I’ve got a pretty good idea of why. Firstly I would never use a product like Armourlink with a lead clip. I never use lead clips anyway but if you want to use Armourlink then you should only use it with an inline lead for a start. It very much sounds to me as though it’s tangling on the cast and if you just cast a supple braided rig into the lake with a lead clip, then a tangle is pretty much guaranteed. Swapping to an inline lead can help but you still need to be stopping the lead in flight before it hits the water and landing the rig. Feathering it in is not good enough. If you have no idea what I’m talking about then that’s where the problem is. I can cast a simple supple rig 70 yards, hit the clip and land the rig every time but that’s something I’ve learnt to do over many years. Over 70 yards I’ll struggle so I’d use another material. I suggest you use it in a solid PVA bag. That will solve the problem instantly. It’s also great in a bushwacker or a bait boat. If you don’t want to use a solid bag and you have to cast, then Armourlink might not be the right product for you. We’ve got a new video coming in a couple of weeks on a simple anti tangle mono rig which will solve your problem. Hope that helps, Cheers, Matt.
I've always used square knots on my hooks, swivels, everywhere I can. Worked fine. Ofc when you tie your own hair rigs, you really need to use the knotless knot.
Hi there, glad you like the channel 😊. Yes, the palomar is a great choice too but you have to pass the whole rig through the loop which I find fiddly so I prefer the double grinner.
I mostly use 6” rigs and at that length, during the fight there’s not much chance that the lead could hit the carp's head. If I have to use a lead clip, I set it to dump the lead on the take, that’s what they are designed to do. Lead clips should only be used if the lake is weedy - that’s where you need to dump the lead. I don’t use lead clips, I mainly use a free running ledger, I don’t lose any lead and it’s a lot more effective. If you want to know more about lead clips and their issues, check out this video: ruclips.net/video/a6WI6Y1o_Xk/видео.html.
A question, but if I use a fluorocarbon with a hook with an inturned eye and I start to pull it to increase the gap and then it comes out almost straight, can I avoid using one with an external eye or does it remain less effective than the second?
Hi mate, sorry but there are too many unknowns for me to answer that question. Personally I do not use fluorocarbon; it’s too stiff, too expensive and it’s just not necessary to be very successful (I’ve done a video on that: ruclips.net/video/5GzS0Ae-tUA/видео.html). By using an out-turned eyed hook (like the nash chod Twister), all you need is some 0.50 mono to produce low cost, highly effective carp rigs. My favourite is the Nash heavy duty mono snag leader. You get 100m for about a tenner, that’s 250+ rigs worth.
When going back through the back of the eye at the completion of the knotless knot, i have always gone through twice so it’s a double lock on the eye. Never had one come undone or break off due to this
Also i do 12 wraps around the shank then back over twice to the back of the eye then twice through the eye. Can’t say Ive seen anyone else do this but it locks my fine braid in tight and secure every time
Surely you're creating a left or rght bias in how the line finally exits from the eye, depending on how the line or braid sits in the eye of the hook? That bias might be kicking the hook sideways. Just a thought. Second point. How big are the eyes on the hook you're using? The hooklink material is going through it 3 times - it just seems to be one time more than necessary.
@@stevemccrory9130 yes a total of 3 times through the eye, obviously the first time is the start of the knotless knot with the hair, the last two times exiting the eye, on a size 6 hook do not overlap and you can manipulate the material to sit exiting the exact middle and rig pull it tight and it just locks into place. The only downside is getting snagged up somewhere and pulling for a break as it just won’t ever give out
Hi mate, if you want to keep it really simple then I would use a size 8 chod Twister with 0.33 mono. I use Zig-Flo when I need to go that thin. Works well as a simple mono hair rig but you’ll struggle to do a D rig as the blob will pull through the eye. If you want to use a D rig with 0.33 mono then check out this video which explains exactly how to do it: ruclips.net/video/Z2Zh54emhS4/видео.html
The knotless knot will rotate when you tighten it. That’s the nature of the knotless knot. It doesn't actually have to be tight to work, all that really matters is the exit angle of the hair. I never tighten the knotless knot in a fishing situation but I do push a blowback tube up underneath it to hold the exit angle of the hair securely. Hope you get it sorted. Cheers, Matt.
Hi Matthew, I guess in terms of some poorly made hook, I guess so. But 98% of manufacturers have Super hooks. From the point of view of physics, you are not right, if the fish acts on the hook, it is at the interface of the eyelet and the fishing line, from the point of view of the laws of physics, this is where the biggest pull is. Subsequently, this is where the fishing line turns and returns to the eye. The pressure at the bend of the eye will be small compared to this point, and this can be reduced by wrapping the line. If I calculate the tensile force in the formula when wrapping 5x, then when wrapping 9x it will be 4.6x less. I don't know why people make up problems where there aren't any. They don't find out the information and then spread nonsense and absurdity. And this also applies to your video.
A hair is going to be narrower when it is pulled into the bait. Always a chance of splitting the boilie into pieces with an extender when it is pulled into the bait. Harder (air-dried) baits can do this, although adding the split bait to your spod mix isn't a problem - just don't leave it on the floor - rat attractor, plus the next angler can see the special hookbait you've used (secret squirrel and all that).
Because it only takes 1 minute to retie. If I’ve used the rig with a single bait the hook will be blunt anyway so it’s pointless casting it out. Extender stops are just something else I’d have to buy and carry with me and my aim is keep my fishing as simple as possible. As already mentioned an extender stop can easily split baits (especially 15mm). I use a lot of rock hard salt cured baits and can’t use them with those.
@@matthewcollinsangler Sorry I thought it was the youtuber who puts more & more adverts on for more money, I apologise sir, I do like your videos very informative. Thanks
The hair rig is an absolute classic and to be honest, it’s all we really need to catch a carp or three. One of its many benefits is that it’s easy to tie but there are still plenty of pitfalls to avoid along the way. Some of these mistakes will make the rig virtually useless but I’ve included other more subtle choices that won’t necessarily stop you from catching carp (when they are in a generous mood), but sometimes, when the going gets tough, I’ve found that fixing these can bring about a rapid change in fortune, even when it looks like it’s going to be a blank session. Hope this gives you food for thought.
Reduce the options for failure, increase the chance for success. Simple is the way to go, and key to this. Sometimes, as anglers, WE make it too complcated for ourselves when we don't have to.
A 45 minute Matt Collins video!! What a Sunday treat!
Hope you enjoy mate 👍
I’ve fished for many years Matthew and still I’ve learnt a lot more and caught quite a few more gooduns from watching you’re uploads,so thank you. Tightlines for this year Matthew,all the best 🎣
That's great to hear mate, have a good season too 👍
@@matthewcollinsanglerthanks for the reply Matthew,looking forward to the videos this year to see how you get on at the lake and see the growth in the new fish, Tightlines 🎣
Great tutor, simple to follow guides, and adding the reasons behind it, brilliant Matt, many thanks as always!
Wonderful to hear, thank you 😊
I saw a guide on tying the simple hair rig many years ago. It's interesting to put some explanation to something I hadn't thought about.
Another masterclass from Matt Collins. Excellent work!
Thanks very much mate 👍
Hi matt , thanks again for these informative videos.
The angling community appreciate you taking the time to make us better anglers and inturn help us put more fish on the bank . 👍🏻
Very kind words mate 🙏
As always Mr Collins, attention to detail and thoroughly explained. Many thanks
Learnt so much from that matt in fact I'm going to check my ready made rigs to see that they hang straight,I would bet that those companies that make these for sale have not thought of this and is costing us missed fish and lost fish. Well done to you!
I always stick an anti-tangle sleeve on the swivel as well - helps push the bait away from the lead for a shorter hooking time to convert more pickups into bites. Prevents tangles too!
9:35 great tip a few people could get that wrong and not even notice, for me I use a hook bead to kick the hair out like you did in your " killer hair rig " video 👍🏾
Cool mate 👍
Paused the video at 27:34, while you were showing us tying the bait loop, BUT....I have a suggestion....match anglers use a loop-tyer to tie uniform loops in their rigs, and they will definitely be big enough for a boilie stop, and will sit inside most baits, when completed. Adding one of these to your tackle box will help those anglers with sausage fingers or dexterity difficulties or vision problems. They will work with braid and mono, and with hooklink materials in the higher diameters that big-fish anglers use.
With a hair rig, what we are effectively doing is increasing the gape of the hook. What we're doing is increasing the distance between the point and the shank (directly opposite, horizontally) so that it becomes less than the distance between hook-point and the eye (where the pivot point from the hook-link is). Increase the gape, increase the chances of the hook turning over and grabbing. Simple.
Hmm, never heard or seen such a thing TBH mate. I know that some anglers find it hard to tie a simple overhand loop knot as I’ve watched them struggle but TBH if they can’t do that then I’m not sure giving them a tool is going to help but I’d be happy to be proved wrong! Thanks for sharing the idea. Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsanglerSensas, Preston Innovations and Ringer Baits all do them. With Sensas being French, you should have no problems finding them in the local magasin du peche. Sensas Loop Tyer.
32:15 I completely understand the importance in getting the most amount of rigs per spool of hooklink material, however, I am a perfectionist when it comes to rigs - I construct every one of them fit to be mounted in a case on my wall!
I’d rather cut off 10cm extra material and tie a two-turn figure of 8 loop so I know it’s going to be fishing the same way when I change rigs after a fish.
Does the 3cm length difference make any odds? Probably not. Does it make me happy and confident? Yes.
It’s more of a principle thing rather than me believing it’s actually going to make any real difference. If I ensure every single part of my rig is how I want it (sharp, straight, undamaged, etc.), THEN I believe I will catch more carp. Just like you have said before, carp fishing is all about tiny percentages adding up in your favour!
Nice to hear that mate. I’m totally with you, it’s that kind of attention to detail that makes a difference 👍
Confidence. Simple.
Fantastically explained these videos are excellent for new people starting carp angling and even experience carp anglers that have had a brake in carp fishing for a while these videos are great to refresh everything thank you Matthew for making these in depth videos Happy Carp Fishing and Tight Lines Always 🎣🎣🎣
Wonderful to hear mate, thanks 🙏
Not just for carp anglers. As a returning match angler, I found the details in this and many of Matt's videos very useful. Too many anglers ignore rig mechanics, and the tiniest of changes or details can make a positive impact - marginal gains, and all those buzz-words.
Thanks for making my sunday a bit more enjoyable matt i have been doing something different now for 3 years been using hook clips so i can just swap my hook not the full rig any more and for pop ups i can get them so close to the bottom far better than a ronnie
Very good video as usually Matt and everything explained in a very good way 👍. We all have our favorite rig’s and we all tie them the way we favor most. I always leave a very long hair of at least 10 cm with no loop. Only if I know what hookbait I’ll use I tie a loop so it’s exactly the size I want. And like you I will always make sure that the knot is trapping the bait(s) so it can’t slide up the hair towards the hook. On the other end of the rig I don’t put on a swivel but I tie a loop which I can put on a kwicklink or a big loop which I can loop onto the swivel attached to my leader.
I also like to use a rig ring on the shank of the hook and a line aligner. I really believe using this additions provides a much better hookhold than without them.
Looking forward to your next video!
Suggestion....tie the loop, but don't tie the hook onto the line, and don't tie on the swivel at the other end until you know what bait your using, and what size of bait you're using. You could even add the blowback tube onto the hook, pending completion. Rig cases will hold partly made rigs these days.
Thanks very much for sharing your thoughts. I also attach many of my rigs with loops to a quick change swivel and keep it in place with a short tungsten anti tangle sleeve but in this video I just focused on the mistakes I see when anglers are doing something simple such as tying directly to a swivel.
I can remember when the hair rig first came out in the very late 70’s & it really was a game changer at the time along with HNV baits 👍🏻
Yeah, it's been around for a long time, it's always worked and it always will 👍
Nash Arma Link looks so easy to use and looks neater and more presentable than my N-Trap Stiff and Semi-Stiff, definitely going to try it
Cool, it's a great material 😊
Excellent stuff, very entertaining and helpful! I exclusively use a semi-stiff hook link vs supple. I just have a hard time tying rigs with supple links but still plan to use these tips! Hopefully these will still apply especially with our not as educated American carp! 😅
Great! I have total confidence and success with the simple rigs I show on this channel. I've met plenty of anglers who struggle with tying their own rigs with supple braid and this 'blow back multi' rig is perfect for this, tie it once, re-use the hooklink and just keep changing the hooks: ruclips.net/video/7VlmNHg0BD0/видео.html
@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks Matthew! I'll give it a shot. Really love your vids!
I love the walking to camera shots 👍
😃👍
Great video Matt! I have been missing the in depth longer video’s were you go into detail 😊 I was wondering if you could make a vid someday of how to correctly spool your braided spool/spodding rod and are you also curious about the new lines of Nash? The 0.45 armour mono seems pretty interesting to me!
Thanks mate! Funny you should ask... I re-spooled my marker rod a few weeks ago and we made a video of it, not quite sure when it'll be out, we've got quite a few in the pipeline 😊 Haven't tried the new Nash lines yet.
Very interesting and made me think again but lm very much in the mind to trust what l know has worked but l haven’t fish abroad much or for large cats so it would be a consideration if l was fish over 50 on shaggy clam crusted lake beds you want heavy strong rigs that won’t just hook the zoo creatures but also get them to the net ! Bravo keep them coming!
I think your videos help us catch more fish :)
Really amazing video
Think best online that I have seen
Well done Matt, as always top class videos
Really appreciate that mate, thanks.
Grate advice as always well explained video only thing I'd say is you could use a better pair of sissers lol. I bet most of us has made most of these mistakes. At some time
haha, yes, it was time to change them!
I have a question. Why do you tie your rigs on the swivel? I use a figure 8 loop with an anti tangle sleeve. By using the loop it is for me more easy to get the lenght of the rig perfect.
Hi, yes, I use a loop knot as well to make the connection to a quick change swivel and if you watch some of my other videos you’ll see me do that in some of them. The focus of this video was on mistakes I see on the bank and using a blood knot with braided hooklink is not a good idea if you are targeting large carp or catfish. Cheers, Matt.
Hi Mathew after watching your vids I decided to try out the Nash chods as I’m fishing for fish up to 50lb with a lot of margin snags, bushes sunken trees left right and I’m so impressed with their strength, v sharp for wire gauge as well. Do you have any opinions on their longshanks or longshank hooks in general? I hear a lot about hook pulls and mouth damage but no experience
Hi mate. I have tested the longshanks in a size 8 with a very fine mono known as zig flo. Although they worked for me in the situation I was using, I wasn't comfortable using a size 6 or even a 4 because of how long they become and extra length means extra leverage which can lead to mouth damage as you mention. For the type of fishing you are doing, the eye size of a size 8 will be too small for the materials required so I can’t recommend them to you. I use the size 6 nash chod Twister for 90% of my fishing. I also use the standard Twister version if I’m using a supple material like Armourlink. I use the chod Twister in a size 6 for river carping for very powerful carp in flowing water or even for banking monster catfish, those little size 6’s can literally do it all. If you prefer a beaked point and like a wide gape pattern then I’d look at the Nash claw in a size 6. Heavier wire gauge but still a very sharp point. Wide gape, short shank, mega strong. The size 6’s are large. The 4’s are massive! I use the size 6 chod claw for use with heavy duty multi rigs made from 35 lbs Skinlink. The material is very abrasion resistant and strong. Doubled over you need the larger eye size of the size 6 chod claw to handle it but a size 4 chod Twister also works 👍 I did get a pack of the Brute hooks to have a look at but the wire gauge is huge! You could literally tow a truck in one of them 🤣 Just not necessary in my opinion.
Thanks for ur videos.. Mr. Matt Collins... all work as u say!!!
Great to hear 😊
How do you stop braid such as the Armourlink from tangling? I've tried this rig a few times and every-time bring it back its gone around the lead clip or just a mess in general. It's fine with Skinlink and other alternative skinned hooklinks.
Hi mate, sorry to hear that you are having trouble but I’ve got a pretty good idea of why. Firstly I would never use a product like Armourlink with a lead clip. I never use lead clips anyway but if you want to use Armourlink then you should only use it with an inline lead for a start. It very much sounds to me as though it’s tangling on the cast and if you just cast a supple braided rig into the lake with a lead clip, then a tangle is pretty much guaranteed. Swapping to an inline lead can help but you still need to be stopping the lead in flight before it hits the water and landing the rig. Feathering it in is not good enough. If you have no idea what I’m talking about then that’s where the problem is. I can cast a simple supple rig 70 yards, hit the clip and land the rig every time but that’s something I’ve learnt to do over many years. Over 70 yards I’ll struggle so I’d use another material. I suggest you use it in a solid PVA bag. That will solve the problem instantly. It’s also great in a bushwacker or a bait boat. If you don’t want to use a solid bag and you have to cast, then Armourlink might not be the right product for you. We’ve got a new video coming in a couple of weeks on a simple anti tangle mono rig which will solve your problem. Hope that helps, Cheers, Matt.
I've always used square knots on my hooks, swivels, everywhere I can. Worked fine. Ofc when you tie your own hair rigs, you really need to use the knotless knot.
Can you use a palomar know for tying the swivel? Hi Matt, enjoy your videos.
Hi there, glad you like the channel 😊. Yes, the palomar is a great choice too but you have to pass the whole rig through the loop which I find fiddly so I prefer the double grinner.
The best braid ive ever found for strength and abrasion is catlink, by a county mile
Hi, I’ve been waiting for a video for long time , I will enjoy it now thanks 🎉
🙏 😊
Nice one matt very well demonstrated
Cheers mate 👍
Thanks 👍 for the video s all makes sense to me keep up the fantastic work 👍
Cool, thanks!
With a lead clip, what is the minimum length of hook line you would use, for the safety of the fish and the lead not hitting the fish or its eyes
I mostly use 6” rigs and at that length, during the fight there’s not much chance that the lead could hit the carp's head.
If I have to use a lead clip, I set it to dump the lead on the take, that’s what they are designed to do. Lead clips should only be used if the lake is weedy - that’s where you need to dump the lead. I don’t use lead clips, I mainly use a free running ledger, I don’t lose any lead and it’s a lot more effective. If you want to know more about lead clips and their issues, check out this video: ruclips.net/video/a6WI6Y1o_Xk/видео.html.
I dot fish for carp but wouldn't a drophot knot work to create the hair might have to do some shannanigans with the hair though
Wow. Fantastic. Thnx. Didnt know any of that!
Mr Collins. A different question for you ..whats the name of your lake in France.
Brian
Hi Brian, my lake is called Beausoleil Carp & Cats and the website is www.frenchcarpandcats.com 😊
A question, but if I use a fluorocarbon with a hook with an inturned eye and I start to pull it to increase the gap and then it comes out almost straight, can I avoid using one with an external eye or does it remain less effective than the second?
Hi mate, sorry but there are too many unknowns for me to answer that question. Personally I do not use fluorocarbon; it’s too stiff, too expensive and it’s just not necessary to be very successful (I’ve done a video on that: ruclips.net/video/5GzS0Ae-tUA/видео.html).
By using an out-turned eyed hook (like the nash chod Twister), all you need is some 0.50 mono to produce low cost, highly effective carp rigs. My favourite is the Nash heavy duty mono snag leader. You get 100m for about a tenner, that’s 250+ rigs worth.
@@matthewcollinsangler Hi thanks for have answer.
Awesome tips
Great tips, Matthew 👍
Thank you 🙏
When going back through the back of the eye at the completion of the knotless knot, i have always gone through twice so it’s a double lock on the eye. Never had one come undone or break off due to this
Also i do 12 wraps around the shank then back over twice to the back of the eye then twice through the eye. Can’t say Ive seen anyone else do this but it locks my fine braid in tight and secure every time
Surely you're creating a left or rght bias in how the line finally exits from the eye, depending on how the line or braid sits in the eye of the hook? That bias might be kicking the hook sideways. Just a thought.
Second point. How big are the eyes on the hook you're using? The hooklink material is going through it 3 times - it just seems to be one time more than necessary.
@@stevemccrory9130 yes a total of 3 times through the eye, obviously the first time is the start of the knotless knot with the hair, the last two times exiting the eye, on a size 6 hook do not overlap and you can manipulate the material to sit exiting the exact middle and rig pull it tight and it just locks into place. The only downside is getting snagged up somewhere and pulling for a break as it just won’t ever give out
which hook and hook size should I use for 0.33 mono
Hi mate, if you want to keep it really simple then I would use a size 8 chod Twister with 0.33 mono. I use Zig-Flo when I need to go that thin. Works well as a simple mono hair rig but you’ll struggle to do a D rig as the blob will pull through the eye. If you want to use a D rig with 0.33 mono then check out this video which explains exactly how to do it: ruclips.net/video/Z2Zh54emhS4/видео.html
@@matthewcollinsangler ok thanks i really am learning a lot from u
@@Alen_Virag06 great to hear mate 👍
10:00 you mean horizontal ?
Alot of the efficiency is to do with the weight of the bait also
Excellent info.
Thank you 😊
If your hair isn't long enough you can just add some bait floss 😊😁
so we dont wet the knots anymore is it 🤔
Yes, I do 16:10 and 18:25
Are you affiliated to/with NASH Matt? Or is it simply that you favour their brand as i notice you always use Nash .....great video once again thankyou
Thanks for the feedback Simon 👍 Yes, Nash sponsors the channel for its educational content, but they're not involved at all in what we film.
end with a knot before going back through the eye!
My hair just keeps twisting when I tighten the not😭
The knotless knot will rotate when you tighten it. That’s the nature of the knotless knot. It doesn't actually have to be tight to work, all that really matters is the exit angle of the hair. I never tighten the knotless knot in a fishing situation but I do push a blowback tube up underneath it to hold the exit angle of the hair securely. Hope you get it sorted. Cheers, Matt.
Nice video!!
Thanks 👍
Awesome blabber 👍
Hi Matthew, I guess in terms of some poorly made hook, I guess so. But 98% of manufacturers have Super hooks. From the point of view of physics, you are not right, if the fish acts on the hook, it is at the interface of the eyelet and the fishing line, from the point of view of the laws of physics, this is where the biggest pull is. Subsequently, this is where the fishing line turns and returns to the eye. The pressure at the bend of the eye will be small compared to this point, and this can be reduced by wrapping the line. If I calculate the tensile force in the formula when wrapping 5x, then when wrapping 9x it will be 4.6x less. I don't know why people make up problems where there aren't any. They don't find out the information and then spread nonsense and absurdity. And this also applies to your video.
👍
Knows his stuff 👌🏻
Why Retie a rig for double baits???? Just use extended hair stoppers
A hair is going to be narrower when it is pulled into the bait. Always a chance of splitting the boilie into pieces with an extender when it is pulled into the bait. Harder (air-dried) baits can do this, although adding the split bait to your spod mix isn't a problem - just don't leave it on the floor - rat attractor, plus the next angler can see the special hookbait you've used (secret squirrel and all that).
Because it only takes 1 minute to retie. If I’ve used the rig with a single bait the hook will be blunt anyway so it’s pointless casting it out. Extender stops are just something else I’d have to buy and carry with me and my aim is keep my fishing as simple as possible. As already mentioned an extender stop can easily split baits (especially 15mm). I use a lot of rock hard salt cured baits and can’t use them with those.
Thanks for the 56 second adverts, why
Not something I have any control over.
@@matthewcollinsangler
Sorry I thought it was the youtuber who puts more & more adverts on for more money,
I apologise sir, I do like your videos very informative.
Thanks
🤝🇧🇷
😊 👍
What's wrong with you mannn😅
what a joke!! What a time waster!!
EXCELLENT.