I have made this video so you do not inadvertently buy a lemon MX5. It was never designed to be a short video and covers everything you would want to know about the MK2 & MK2.5 MX5 cars, before and after purchasing one. If you have any questions ask below & remember there is a huge following to these and there are many FaceBook groups that can help. Matt
I just brought a mx5 nb rs 1998. The speedometer was converted for the UK. But there's an argument wether the mileometer was changed to which is digital.
As a long term MX5 (NB) owner I suggest don't worry about cosmetic upgrades. NB's are tail happy especially when powering out of slow corners, an upgraded front sway bar will tame this and should be number 1 mod. Number 2 is replacing the rubber door blocks with solid polyurethane which will noticeably stiffen the car. The plastic end tanks on the radiator become brittle after many heat soaks and will fail at the worst time leaving you stranded in the middle of nowhere - trust me on that - an aluminium radiator is third mod. All 3 are cheap, and super easy to do yourself.
Good video. However thing to note is that both MX5 1.6 and 1.8L engines are non interference engines, so neither would be damaged if the timing belt snapped.
I'm glad you said that. I have a mk1 1.8iS that I brought back to France from the UK 2 years ago. Very little service history, 110000 miles and no record of a timing belt change. It's now up to 128000. I've had a full belt and water pump kit banging around in the boot for several months but not worried because I'd read that they're all non interférence. So this vid got me a bit phased. Thanks for the reassurance! Cracking little motors!
I bought a imported NB1 1.8 non vvt,it has a big plate on the cambelt cover ,asking for replace it every 100.000 km(in Japanese language).So I replaced mine at 65k miles
A couple notes. The 1.6l and 1.8l blocks are physically different, the 1.8l is not a bored out 1.6l. Stock bore on a 1.6 is 78mm, max is 80mm. 1.8l stock is 83mm, max is 85mm. The 1.8l VVT block is stronger due to the support girdle. The best combination for turbocharged applications is a BP4W (NB1) head and a BP6D bottom end (VVT). All can be boosted, all perform well up to 250WHP, the 1.8l will spool a turbo faster than the 1.6l. The 5 speed box is cheap because they break at 300WHP consistently. The 6 speed box is a physically different case, stronger with stronger gears. They did not just make the gears shorter, its a new design with an overdrive gear.
I bought mine getting on for 5 years ago. A 2003 mk 2.5 in red. (It had to be red!) When I told a mate of mine that everything in my price range had high mileage he replied "Don't worry about that, it's the body-work which is important". I looked at a few and this same guy had a look over my choice for me. I drive it every day and it always makes me smile! I love it! Awesome video Matt!
G'day Matt, thank you so much for this video. I bought a Mk2 yesterday and the knowledge was invaluable. I found one tiny bit of rot behind the boot liner that not even the seller knew was there.
Absolute legend.. what a video.. I’m on the hunt for my first ever mx5.. Wanting a NB MK2.5 1.8 vvt Patiently waiting for the right 1 to arrive on the market!
Great video, thanks for posting. I used all your advice to make up a checklist that stretched to 2 sides of A4 and used that to help my daughter buy an MX5 yesterday. We found a car with no rust advisories on the MOT history on Vehicle Smart (it was LITERALLY the ONLY car out of about 15 cars within a 50 mile radius that didn't have some kind of mention of rust ) and when we got there I spent over an hour checking all the stuff you advised.... chassis rails, sills, battery bay etc etc and sure enough everything was solid. It was clean and well looked after and drove beautifully and had half service history so we bought it on the spot. Fingers crossed I've not missed anything important but do feel that with your help I've checked the car as well as I could. Thanks again.
Hello james, is there any way you could send this checklist to me? And have you found out about anything since you bought it or is she still enjoying the car?
I just bought a red 2004 LS with the 6 Speed and I’m loving it so much. The owner before me babied it and it only has 60,000 miles. Thanks for the informative video. This is going to help a lot of people.
I really enjoyed the video and learnt a lot about my MX5. Even though I've had it 6 years, I didn't realise that the electric windows, central locking and ABS weren't standard on my MkII.
This vid all be it I am approx 3 years to late is fantastic I have been so so so lucky when buying my mx5 2.5 not knowing all these issues I went out and bought one for my daughter It was in time warp condition NO RUST AT ALL with 40K odd miles Been kept in a heated garage all its life and loved to death I did however pay over the odds which I tend to do for the right car and looking at this thank god I did infact I now think I did not pay a penny over the odds ??? Great vid thank you !!!!!!!!!!!!
I may as well be autistic, but I have watched this video at least 3 times in its entirety in the last year. Partly for entertainment value, partly for the information. Now I have a 1.8 NB with LSD and AC. I love the car!
Rust Issues: The primary concern with MX-5s. Matt emphasizes inspecting chassis rails, rear sills, wheel arches, and front wings for rust. Extensive rust is a deal-breaker due to high repair costs. Engine Reliability: MX-5 engines are generally reliable up to 150,000 miles. High mileage engines might have issues with oil bypassing piston rings, leading to smoke. Regular maintenance can mitigate many issues. Models and Features: Differences between Mark 2 and Mark 2.5 models are highlighted, such as headlights, central locking, electric windows, and ABS. Understanding these variations is important for informed purchasing. Servicing Tips Regular servicing is crucial. Matt suggests not to overlook brake fluid, clutch fluid, and wiper blades, and to change differential and gearbox oil regularly. Fuel Efficiency: There is a brief comparison of fuel efficiency between the 1.6 and 1.8 engines. Brakes: Check for issues, especially in cars that have been stationary for long periods. Differentials: Various types are discussed, but for everyday driving, the differential type (open, Torsen, Fuji, etc.) is not a major concern unless used for track days. Gearboxes: Both 5-speed and 6-speed gearboxes are discussed. The 5-speed is seen as more reliable, though there's little difference in everyday driving. Roofs: The importance of checking for leaks in both mohair and vinyl roofs is noted. Hard tops should be inspected for cracks. Written Off Categories: Understanding the UK categories (Category N and S) for written-off vehicles is crucial. Category S (structural damage) vehicles should generally be avoided. Modifications and Upgrades: Various potential upgrades like stereo systems, LED lights, air filters, and exhaust systems are discussed. Personal preference plays a significant role in these choices. Buying Tips: Includes checking VIN numbers, doing HPI checks, interviewing the seller, test driving in all gears, and being attentive to vibrations or noises.
Brilliant video; every rust spot you have identified, I have had to weld or replace with panels (readily purchased from MX5 specialists). Done all the undserseal as well (Dinitrol).
Just stumbled across your video, I just picked up my first mx5 a couple of weeks ago, it appears that I have been blessed and picked up a good one. I will have to admit that I am looking for a hardtop for the winter. My favourite car so far 😁
Thank you Matthew! I absolutely appreciate all the work you've done on this 1.5 hour video. I think this is one of the best guides on buying a car I've ever seen. Normally I don't "like subscribe and bla-bla-bla" but this time I think it would be absolutely unfair not to do it. I hope your advice will help me soon. I'm from Russia myself (don't blame me on that) but I think all the guys telling British accent is hard to understand are talking bs cause this video proves otherwise despite I know there could be some issues with old school British accent) Everything was clear and helpful. Thank you once again. Love it!
My parents gave me a $5000 budget, I can get a used miata once I have my liscence in a few months, I'll get to learn manual in it, then it'll be for the most part, mine. I'm right at the start of this video and I know this is going to be a great help!
I had a floating crankshaft yet the key way was ok, this appeared at 106,000 miles and appeared to be the thrust bearing so kept going through the crank seals. So look at the bottom of the engine while the engine is running and check the crank wheel is nice and smooth and not wobbly!
In the States, the location of the ECU is different. It's actually under the driver's side dash, under the steering column. Lucky for me because my 2001 MX-5's passenger side has gotten wet several times due to an ill-fitting window. You scared me to death till I googled it. :)
i keep crossing paths with you matt. It started a few years ago watching your understandingE videos with magento, i then got into RC planes and found this channel. And only yesterday i went and bought a mk2.5 mx5. weird. I managed to find a 6 speed with hardtop for £1350. no major rot. Which i thought was pretty good.
Thanks for making this. I try to tell people the main this is ROT! 2 of my friends bought mk1s for £3000+ 2 years down the line I own both of them for less than £300 each. Building a good one out of the two of them. 1 was rotten beyond repair and the other one was not as bad but he crashed it. I'll have an absolute topper for less than a grand by next month after I've sprayed it and finished restoring the underneath of it. I tried to tell them but they both got bent over for them!
Another car with a bullet proof engine is the V6 Mk 3 mondeo, i drove my last one like it was stolen every single time i got in it for 12 years and the only reason i retired it was the bodywork being battered and i was embarrassed to be seen driving it, was still rust free though. Loved driving that car so much i searched high and low for a clean example to replace it with and now have another MK3 V6 with 68,000 on it which will last me many more years of being ragged senseless :) The Duratec v6 has a chain too so no messing about with cam belts!
This is the type of video that I've been looking for. I am learning about the Miata MX 5. So hearing what to look for was massive. As I am not a technical guy. My next issue is to see if I can dtive a manuel. All the cars that I've driven have been automatic. But I hear from videos that you should buy and learn a manual. Because the engine on an automatis aren't good. Thanks for a great video. Shaun of NYC
You have a lot to learn. "Because the engine on an automatis aren't good. " No. Most vehicles that are same model and trim only differ in transmission. They use the same engine in most cases. The automatic transmission itself is weak and unreliable in most cases. Manual transmissions are lighter and more durable. They are a better choice for 'drivers' because 'drivers' select the gear when approaching a hill, curve, or curve on a hill. Although newer automatics are faster than manuals in the same car and trim package, manuals are still preferable among most drivers who want to keep the car for 5 years or more.
I have had a kooky plan in the back of my mind for years, I want to find an Mx5 and drop a rotary under the hood. I know its been done, but the ones I have seen were not done well. I think if it was executed with some patience, and if i built the suspension from the ground up, it could be epic. I have a 13B-RE rotary that has been sitting in my shed for a couple years, I just need to find a good donor body. but alas, finding a good donor in Ohio (aka "The Land of Salt) has proven a challenge. Thanks for pointing out a few spots that i wouldn't have thought to look.
So far the best video and information about the MX5!! Thank you so much for your time and help! I am about to buy an NB 2, 2004, 42.000 kilometers, including hard top for 8.000 Euro. It looks quite good, no rot, new brakes 6000km ago. But I will change at least all oils, filters and the time belt system. A lots of greetings from Austria.
Great video, looking for an MX-5 my self, so really great info and help. But saying that the engines are "rock solid", and yet you advise avoiding cars with more than 130.000-150.000 miles....that's is the opposite of "rock solid". My old Saab 900 did more than 376.000 km - 235.000 miles-ish, and the engine was healthy, using no oil at that mileage, and would've probably gone on for quite a while if the rest of the sweet swede hadn't rusted away - THAT is a rock solid engine!
Coworker's experience with Miatas impressed me: engine finally blew on a NA at over 250k miles and his current daily driver NB is around 200k miles. Both bought new, well serviced and never tracked. No major problems- worse was a cam position sensor failure that required a tow. That convinced me to buy two used 2002's, one base model and later a rare yellow special edition I couldn't resist.
They also rust badly behind the seats on the top of the shelf that the fuel tank sits under as the drains on either side get blocked and water banks back into this area and sits covered by carpet.
I bought a 01 Miata special edition and it’s half lemon half gem! Has no rust under the car! Runs like a sewing machine but I has rocker rust I need to replace the soft top and I needed to replace the pcm because it kept throwing a false code! I hope after I fix all those things on my own welding new panels in and put a top on and it will be a really really nice car
Excellent video - watched it before I bought my 1st MX5 Mk2 last year and took notice of the advice - watched it again out of interest and I agree 100%
What an awesome video even for a long time owner! I’ll be going through my Miata and checking many things pointed out. Those I.L. Motorsport hood lifters are going to my wish list! Talking from experience and you can confirm with a quick internet search: 1. The 1.6 is not an interference fit. Don’t worry about the timing belt. 2. The 5 speed is not stronger than the 6 speed. The 6 speed is preferred for turbocharging as it can take more torque. I’ve broken both 5 and 6 speed on mine and will be putting only 6 speeds in. However, for a stock daily driver, go for the 5 speed. It’s much comfier not have to change so often. 3. Small thing, but anyway the 6th on the 6-speed is actually shorter than the 5th on a 5-speed, meaning with the same diff the 6-speed will actually rev more on highway. Again, 5-speed is nicer for a daily cruiser. These have propably been pointed out already, but putting it out there anyway. :) .... 4. Do turbo your MX-5! Like so many others that have, you won’t regret it.
Biggest selling point for me with mk2.5 is that they come with OBD2. If you get a mk2, you only get the proprietary mazda port. OBD2 makes faultfinding way easier.
thanks for this video awesome. I am in the process of purchasing an MX-5 i checked all the rust spots you mentioned all area's were sound, found water in passenger footwell so the dealer will be sorting that before purchase. so thanks again awesome video
I don't know if anyone mentioned it, but I think you could take the spring mechanism out of the center console lid, and it won't pop up on you anymore.
This video came about half a year late for me. Bought my MX5 NB on end of December 2018 and I have rust in my door sills, the rain holes are completely clogged on the interior.
that yellow one looks like an 1.8, and intake neck is straight not pointing down, and the lettering on the rocker cover is indented not raised . am i wrong?
Hmm, I saw a site saying the engine can go 400,000 miles. 150K isn't that much really. I guess it all depends how it was taken care of. I wonder to if it's worth getting a lithium battery when old one goes to save quite a few pounds.
Personally aware of a NA and NB that got over 200k. The lighter lithium battery would affect the touted 50-50 weight balance but would not be noticeable and certainly not worth any perceived advantage given their outrageous price.
brilliant video - defn things to look out for - hadnt seen this then but bought one in February waited since they came out in 1989 - lucked out with mine was a cat d but about 5 months from new - never driven on before dest drive - got out and bought it immediately - 53 plate - hadnt had a service for a while and tracking was out - besides that ... never been that bothered with driving only as part of my job but i cant keep myself out of the thing - in the garage at the moment to get the sills done - preventative maintenance - chasis rails ok Once again really great advice
by any chance would you have any rolling shells?running and driving that have minimal rust ? crash damage whatever aslong as he chassis and suspension is solid?
Great video. Just a question : you say the engines are rocksolid but also to walk away from engines with more then 150K so what kinds of issues are to be expected at those 150K plus engines ?
*not a miata owner, i just repeat what i have heard* well firstly the oil leak from the exhaust he mentioned in the video, i have heard about an annoying engine knocking sound that happens for no reason and sometimes changing oil will stop it 🤷🏼♂️ and lastly and a bit more of my opinion, even for a 20yo car i wouldnt trust an engine with 150k miles even if it was the worlds most trustworthy engine
Hi Matt, Great Video, love the attention to detail etc. My mum bought the MX5 California Limited Edition in 2000, from new when they just come out. Only 500 of these were made. She still has the car but unfortunately due to rot on the nearside front chassis rail and some corrosion to the subframe mounting. The body of the car is not bad for it's age and she wants to keep it. However, I did approached an MX5 restorer in Buckinghamshire who agreed to do the work but due to unforeseen circumstances he unable to commit. There aren't may restorers in the Southeast and they tend to be miles away. Does anyone on here know of any MX5 restorer ? Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks Dee
Hey this video is great! I recently bought an MX-5 without doing all these checks and I got lucky... However, I was wondering if you could do a video, or you know of any guides, that would be good for rust maintenance? Thanks!
Hi Freddie, your local garage would be a good start. The videos that are posted about MX5 rust repairs on RUclips are generally greatly over exaggerated and chase minor surface rust on inner panels by cutting out whole chunks using an angle grinder, it's crazy. So a local garage would be best as they'll offer you no BS advice normally. Matt
I've watched a few of your FPV videos before, was totally surprised to come across this one. Looking forward to getting a nb one day and this video is on point, exactly what I was looking for :) thanks for the great content.
Matt! Please tell me what the little button switch underneath the steering wheel does. It's driving me nuts not knowing what it does. Mine's an NB MK2 1.8 from 2000. And also, might I add this was the best 'how-to-buy-an-mx5' video I've ever seen. I wish I had bumped into this before getting mine. xx
Aww mate, open diffs are not happy days, they suck, if you want to go sideways an lsd is a must have, and im sorry to be such a child but coming out of junctions and roundabouts on opposite lock is just cool, fact! I'm looking for an mx5 just now and I wouldn't buy one without a slipper preferably torsen. Good to see someone make the effort to help others though, well done.
A good 1.6 can easily pass 300,000 miles. Though I've seen them do it, most 1.8s are pretty tired by 150k. The 1.6 is a better revving engine, and gets better gas mileage. Agreed as to rust. Bought a parts NA for pocket change; a good running rust bucket. I fixed it, and drove it for many years, but I would have been dollars ahead to leave it a parts car, and buy an unrusted car- they do exist! Also the 1.6 has embossed lettering on the cam cover; the 1.8 has raised. Pay attention to manual window winders; they wear out, bind up, and they are no longer serviced by Mazda.
Yes. The car just comes to a stop. In the rain. Or snow. At 3am. A thousand miles from home. During an ice storm, when the wait for a wrecker is 3 days. @@mick0846
I've had NAs with both. IMHO, the 1.6 is the more durable engine. It revs better, gets better fuel mileage, and runs longer before it starts using oil. Never blown up a 1.6; I have exploded a 1.8. Granted, it was under 16 lbs boost, no intercooler or engine management. and 160k on the unit@@TheHaferkeks
I’ve just bought a nb with 24000 on the clock garaged in mint condition but it’s got a boss stereo and wanted apple car play but apparently it’s a nightmare to fit…I live nr westbury…might check these guys out
Thanks for this awesome video! I used this before buying my NB, which I am picking up in two days. I'm worried about rust...it looks v clean, as it was imported from Japan. However, it is rainy season. Should I be concerned driving it in the rain? I hear water gets stuck in the frame rail sheets of metal. I plan on spraying Fluid Film inside the crevices.
Worth mentioning that a cat n car even if it may be perfect after the repair the cat marker will knock 30-50% of the market value straight off the car so never pay top marks. Most insurance company's will also charge a higher premium for a cat car or not insure it at all. Great video! I'd love to have a mooch for parts at your place 😂
This is great video, really helpful. I've got a 2.5 1.8i sport as well. I changed all fluids and filters (not fuel one yet), and brakes, but haven't yet changed the spark plugs. I've no service history so no idea if the plugs are original. Does it really improve the performance to put new ones in? I've put it off as it looks more difficult 😬 Could you recommend good plugs and leads pls? Thank you
I have a 2003 vvt 1.8, 6 speed, lsd with 60 thousand miles on the clock. I don’t think it’ll pass the next mot due to rot. How much money could I break it for or how much would someone buy it for, for them to break it? Any answers would be greatly appreciated.
I have made this video so you do not inadvertently buy a lemon MX5. It was never designed to be a short video and covers everything you would want to know about the MK2 & MK2.5 MX5 cars, before and after purchasing one. If you have any questions ask below & remember there is a huge following to these and there are many FaceBook groups that can help. Matt
A very detailed review. Thank you
I just brought a mx5 nb rs 1998. The speedometer was converted for the UK. But there's an argument wether the mileometer was changed to which is digital.
I like how the one that looks like a literal lemon isnt a lemon
As a long term MX5 (NB) owner I suggest don't worry about cosmetic upgrades. NB's are tail happy especially when powering out of slow corners, an upgraded front sway bar will tame this and should be number 1 mod. Number 2 is replacing the rubber door blocks with solid polyurethane which will noticeably stiffen the car. The plastic end tanks on the radiator become brittle after many heat soaks and will fail at the worst time leaving you stranded in the middle of nowhere - trust me on that - an aluminium radiator is third mod. All 3 are cheap, and super easy to do yourself.
Buy an SLK !
@@curtisducatiYou mean that heavy numb feeling expensive to repair car?
@@curtisducati Buy a BOXSTER!
Good video. However thing to note is that both MX5 1.6 and 1.8L engines are non interference engines, so neither would be damaged if the timing belt snapped.
I'm glad you said that. I have a mk1 1.8iS that I brought back to France from the UK 2 years ago. Very little service history, 110000 miles and no record of a timing belt change. It's now up to 128000. I've had a full belt and water pump kit banging around in the boot for several months but not worried because I'd read that they're all non interférence. So this vid got me a bit phased. Thanks for the reassurance!
Cracking little motors!
Also just nb1 comes 1.8 without vvti
@@chayyboi i own an mk1 na and i did not know that is that the engine thats 141 hp not 146 ?
@@egeayvala1799 the nb 1.8 is rated from factory at 146hp, the vtii does not add power, just adds efficientcy and some more torque low down
I bought a imported NB1 1.8 non vvt,it has a big plate on the cambelt cover ,asking for replace it every 100.000 km(in Japanese language).So I replaced mine at 65k miles
A couple notes.
The 1.6l and 1.8l blocks are physically different, the 1.8l is not a bored out 1.6l. Stock bore on a 1.6 is 78mm, max is 80mm. 1.8l stock is 83mm, max is 85mm.
The 1.8l VVT block is stronger due to the support girdle.
The best combination for turbocharged applications is a BP4W (NB1) head and a BP6D bottom end (VVT). All can be boosted, all perform well up to 250WHP, the 1.8l will spool a turbo faster than the 1.6l.
The 5 speed box is cheap because they break at 300WHP consistently. The 6 speed box is a physically different case, stronger with stronger gears. They did not just make the gears shorter, its a new design with an overdrive gear.
Howdy Daniel, I didn't know that. I'm sure that will be super helpful to someone looking g to modify their car later on. Matt
Good info, by 300whp, did you mean 300 horse power?
I bought mine getting on for 5 years ago. A 2003 mk 2.5 in red. (It had to be red!) When I told a mate of mine that everything in my price range had high mileage he replied "Don't worry about that, it's the body-work which is important". I looked at a few and this same guy had a look over my choice for me. I drive it every day and it always makes me smile! I love it! Awesome video Matt!
Just bought a 1.8 2.5; I cannot thank you enough for this video mate. Really informative. Everyone should watch this before purchasing a mx-5.
What price a rust free model
G'day Matt, thank you so much for this video. I bought a Mk2 yesterday and the knowledge was invaluable. I found one tiny bit of rot behind the boot liner that not even the seller knew was there.
Absolute legend.. what a video..
I’m on the hunt for my first ever mx5..
Wanting a NB MK2.5 1.8 vvt
Patiently waiting for the right 1 to arrive on the market!
Got my MK2.5 1.8 vvt euphonic edition.. Happy days
@@GoodBlokeOutdoorsI just got one with 30k miles 3rd owner and I’m only 18
You are 100% correct on rust, regardless of the price.
Great video, thanks for posting. I used all your advice to make up a checklist that stretched to 2 sides of A4 and used that to help my daughter buy an MX5 yesterday. We found a car with no rust advisories on the MOT history on Vehicle Smart (it was LITERALLY the ONLY car out of about 15 cars within a 50 mile radius that didn't have some kind of mention of rust ) and when we got there I spent over an hour checking all the stuff you advised.... chassis rails, sills, battery bay etc etc and sure enough everything was solid. It was clean and well looked after and drove beautifully and had half service history so we bought it on the spot. Fingers crossed I've not missed anything important but do feel that with your help I've checked the car as well as I could. Thanks again.
Hello james, is there any way you could send this checklist to me? And have you found out about anything since you bought it or is she still enjoying the car?
@@brianq7365 I can email it to you if you send me your details. The car is all fine...we've had no problems with it at all... no nasty surprises.
@@jamesnolan3634 Could you email this to me mate? if your wanting to sell id be happy to buy
Hey, could you email the list please?
😅😅
Haha! Love the surprise baggy @16:25 :D LOL
I just bought a red 2004 LS with the 6 Speed and I’m loving it so much. The owner before me babied it and it only has 60,000 miles. Thanks for the informative video. This is going to help a lot of people.
I really enjoyed the video and learnt a lot about my MX5. Even though I've had it 6 years, I didn't realise that the electric windows, central locking and ABS weren't standard on my MkII.
Huge thank you for this, I am looking to get my first Mx-5 and your list of pointers will hopefully make my choice a better one.
This vid all be it I am approx 3 years to late is fantastic I have been so so so lucky when buying my mx5 2.5 not knowing all these issues I went out and bought one for my
daughter It was in time warp condition NO RUST AT ALL with 40K odd miles Been kept in a heated garage all its life and loved to death I did however pay over the odds
which I tend to do for the right car and looking at this thank god I did infact I now think I did not pay a penny over the odds ??? Great vid thank you !!!!!!!!!!!!
I wasn't sure if I had the attention span to listen for over an hour. Glad you proved me wrong. Great job
I may as well be autistic, but I have watched this video at least 3 times in its entirety in the last year. Partly for entertainment value, partly for the information. Now I have a 1.8 NB with LSD and AC. I love the car!
Rust Issues: The primary concern with MX-5s. Matt emphasizes inspecting chassis rails, rear sills, wheel arches, and front wings for rust. Extensive rust is a deal-breaker due to high repair costs.
Engine Reliability: MX-5 engines are generally reliable up to 150,000 miles. High mileage engines might have issues with oil bypassing piston rings, leading to smoke. Regular maintenance can mitigate many issues.
Models and Features: Differences between Mark 2 and Mark 2.5 models are highlighted, such as headlights, central locking, electric windows, and ABS. Understanding these variations is important for informed purchasing.
Servicing Tips Regular servicing is crucial. Matt suggests not to overlook brake fluid, clutch fluid, and wiper blades, and to change differential and gearbox oil regularly.
Fuel Efficiency: There is a brief comparison of fuel efficiency between the 1.6 and 1.8 engines.
Brakes: Check for issues, especially in cars that have been stationary for long periods.
Differentials: Various types are discussed, but for everyday driving, the differential type (open, Torsen, Fuji, etc.) is not a major concern unless used for track days.
Gearboxes: Both 5-speed and 6-speed gearboxes are discussed. The 5-speed is seen as more reliable, though there's little difference in everyday driving.
Roofs: The importance of checking for leaks in both mohair and vinyl roofs is noted. Hard tops should be inspected for cracks.
Written Off Categories: Understanding the UK categories (Category N and S) for written-off vehicles is crucial. Category S (structural damage) vehicles should generally be avoided.
Modifications and Upgrades: Various potential upgrades like stereo systems, LED lights, air filters, and exhaust systems are discussed. Personal preference plays a significant role in these choices.
Buying Tips: Includes checking VIN numbers, doing HPI checks, interviewing the seller, test driving in all gears, and being attentive to vibrations or noises.
Brilliant video; every rust spot you have identified, I have had to weld or replace with panels (readily purchased from MX5 specialists). Done all the undserseal as well (Dinitrol).
Just stumbled across your video, I just picked up my first mx5 a couple of weeks ago, it appears that I have been blessed and picked up a good one.
I will have to admit that I am looking for a hardtop for the winter.
My favourite car so far 😁
Thank you Matthew! I absolutely appreciate all the work you've done on this 1.5 hour video. I think this is one of the best guides on buying a car I've ever seen. Normally I don't "like subscribe and bla-bla-bla" but this time I think it would be absolutely unfair not to do it. I hope your advice will help me soon. I'm from Russia myself (don't blame me on that) but I think all the guys telling British accent is hard to understand are talking bs cause this video proves otherwise despite I know there could be some issues with old school British accent) Everything was clear and helpful. Thank you once again. Love it!
My parents gave me a $5000 budget, I can get a used miata once I have my liscence in a few months, I'll get to learn manual in it, then it'll be for the most part, mine. I'm right at the start of this video and I know this is going to be a great help!
Did you get one?
Glad to see my old mx5 has been given some love!
This is an amazing video, I am buying my first mx5 this month. Thanks for all the tips
Howdy, I'm glad it's help you. Matt
16:27 why is there a dime bag on the floor lmao
I had a floating crankshaft yet the key way was ok, this appeared at 106,000 miles and appeared to be the thrust bearing so kept going through the crank seals. So look at the bottom of the engine while the engine is running and check the crank wheel is nice and smooth and not wobbly!
In the States, the location of the ECU is different. It's actually under the driver's side dash, under the steering column. Lucky for me because my 2001 MX-5's passenger side has gotten wet several times due to an ill-fitting window. You scared me to death till I googled it. :)
i keep crossing paths with you matt. It started a few years ago watching your understandingE videos with magento, i then got into RC planes and found this channel. And only yesterday i went and bought a mk2.5 mx5. weird. I managed to find a 6 speed with hardtop for £1350. no major rot. Which i thought was pretty good.
Thanks for making this. I try to tell people the main this is ROT! 2 of my friends bought mk1s for £3000+ 2 years down the line I own both of them for less than £300 each. Building a good one out of the two of them. 1 was rotten beyond repair and the other one was not as bad but he crashed it. I'll have an absolute topper for less than a grand by next month after I've sprayed it and finished restoring the underneath of it.
I tried to tell them but they both got bent over for them!
Another car with a bullet proof engine is the V6 Mk 3 mondeo, i drove my last one like it was stolen every single time i got in it for 12 years and the only reason i retired it was the bodywork being battered and i was embarrassed to be seen driving it, was still rust free though.
Loved driving that car so much i searched high and low for a clean example to replace it with and now have another MK3 V6 with 68,000 on it which will last me many more years of being ragged senseless :)
The Duratec v6 has a chain too so no messing about with cam belts!
I got a 2005 icon with 50k on the clock, spent most of its life in a garage so looks and drives mint 👌
Hey man, i know how much work you have put into this, i really appreciate it, and you deserve way more views and likes, keep up the good work👍👍👍
Amazing video. I was looking for a LHD Mx5 NBFL and I think I'm much more confident in going forward with this project. Thank you so much !
This is the type of video that I've been looking for. I am learning about the Miata MX 5. So hearing what to look for was massive. As I am not a technical guy. My next issue is to see if I can dtive a manuel. All the cars that I've driven have been automatic. But I hear from videos that you should buy and learn a manual. Because the engine on an automatis aren't good.
Thanks for a great video.
Shaun of NYC
You have a lot to learn. "Because the engine on an automatis aren't good. " No. Most vehicles that are same model and trim only differ in transmission. They use the same engine in most cases. The automatic transmission itself is weak and unreliable in most cases. Manual transmissions are lighter and more durable. They are a better choice for 'drivers' because 'drivers' select the gear when approaching a hill, curve, or curve on a hill. Although newer automatics are faster than manuals in the same car and trim package, manuals are still preferable among most drivers who want to keep the car for 5 years or more.
@@tmo2798 That all counts only when you mean old transmissions, modern automatics are great, also at Mazdas.
I have had a kooky plan in the back of my mind for years, I want to find an Mx5 and drop a rotary under the hood. I know its been done, but the ones I have seen were not done well. I think if it was executed with some patience, and if i built the suspension from the ground up, it could be epic. I have a 13B-RE rotary that has been sitting in my shed for a couple years, I just need to find a good donor body. but alas, finding a good donor in Ohio (aka "The Land of Salt) has proven a challenge. Thanks for pointing out a few spots that i wouldn't have thought to look.
Jack the Aviator in Australia we have an aftermarket V8 version.
Why not get a RX8, basically a NC MX5 with a roof. Already has the motor you want. Find one with a failed motor is easier than finding a driving one.
ty for such an inorfmative video! currently looking for a mk2 or 2.5 myself and knowing the places to look for rot is invaluable!
So far the best video and information about the MX5!! Thank you so much for your time and help! I am about to buy an NB 2, 2004, 42.000 kilometers, including hard top for 8.000 Euro. It looks quite good, no rot, new brakes 6000km ago. But I will change at least all oils, filters and the time belt system. A lots of greetings from Austria.
Great video, looking for an MX-5 my self, so really great info and help. But saying that the engines are "rock solid", and yet you advise avoiding cars with more than 130.000-150.000 miles....that's is the opposite of "rock solid". My old Saab 900 did more than 376.000 km - 235.000 miles-ish, and the engine was healthy, using no oil at that mileage, and would've probably gone on for quite a while if the rest of the sweet swede hadn't rusted away - THAT is a rock solid engine!
Coworker's experience with Miatas impressed me: engine finally blew on a NA at over 250k miles and his current daily driver NB is around 200k miles. Both bought new, well serviced and never tracked. No major problems- worse was a cam position sensor failure that required a tow. That convinced me to buy two used 2002's, one base model and later a rare yellow special edition I couldn't resist.
Awsome video mate. made me very confident in buying my mk2.5 today
This video is awesome. Perfect guide for first time prospective buyers like me. Tips are really hurtful !! keep up the good work mate !
Can't believe how Rusty UK cars are, here in new Zealand my 91 is completely rust free with over 370 k kms still running fantastic, good video dude
Soggy weather and salty roads in winter here in UK
They also rust badly behind the seats on the top of the shelf that the fuel tank sits under as the drains on either side get blocked and water banks back into this area and sits covered by carpet.
I am buying my MX-5 bb today. Thank you for this video! I’ll keep an eye out.
thank you very much, tomorrow im going for one. the part at the beginning with the rails was especially helpful. thank you again!
I have a '91 with 180+K miles, no oil burning at all, I've owned 4 NAs (3) 1.6 and (1) 1.8, all did great. All is needed is regular oil changes.
I bought a 01 Miata special edition and it’s half lemon half gem! Has no rust under the car! Runs like a sewing machine but I has rocker rust I need to replace the soft top and I needed to replace the pcm because it kept throwing a false code! I hope after I fix all those things on my own welding new panels in and put a top on and it will be a really really nice car
Seems you could prevent a lot of "rot" by oiling the underside or just not driving it in winter.
Excellent video - watched it before I bought my 1st MX5 Mk2 last year and took notice of the advice - watched it again out of interest and I agree 100%
can i put pop-up headlights on a mk2 or mk2.5 thats the question :D
An really excellent and lengthy video. I learned a lot.
Great Video and really informative. Thanks for taking the time to make.
What an awesome video even for a long time owner! I’ll be going through my Miata and checking many things pointed out. Those I.L. Motorsport hood lifters are going to my wish list!
Talking from experience and you can confirm with a quick internet search:
1. The 1.6 is not an interference fit. Don’t worry about the timing belt.
2. The 5 speed is not stronger than the 6 speed. The 6 speed is preferred for turbocharging as it can take more torque. I’ve broken both 5 and 6 speed on mine and will be putting only 6 speeds in. However, for a stock daily driver, go for the 5 speed. It’s much comfier not have to change so often.
3. Small thing, but anyway the 6th on the 6-speed is actually shorter than the 5th on a 5-speed, meaning with the same diff the 6-speed will actually rev more on highway. Again, 5-speed is nicer for a daily cruiser.
These have propably been pointed out already, but putting it out there anyway. :)
.... 4. Do turbo your MX-5! Like so many others that have, you won’t regret it.
Biggest selling point for me with mk2.5 is that they come with OBD2. If you get a mk2, you only get the proprietary mazda port. OBD2 makes faultfinding way easier.
Thanks a ton for this video, I saw plenty buyers guide for NBs, but thats beyond all. Hats off🙋🏻♂️
Great video, tons of knowledge - wondering about the link to the site with MX-5 models though - can't see it in the description...
What's the number one concern with an MX5?
Rot, rot, rot...bloody rot! Point well taken.
thanks for this video awesome. I am in the process of purchasing an MX-5 i checked all the rust spots you mentioned all area's were sound, found water in passenger footwell so the dealer will be sorting that before purchase. so thanks again awesome video
Hey Mike, crucially find out why there is water there. Most likely the top catch or seal around the windscreen area/roof is gone. Matt
GREAT VIDEO. THANK YOU MATE. SOLID STUFF + You're an awesome presenter. Spider senses tell me you're a LEGEND. Cheers
I don't know if anyone mentioned it, but I think you could take the spring mechanism out of the center console lid, and it won't pop up on you anymore.
This video came about half a year late for me. Bought my MX5 NB on end of December 2018 and I have rust in my door sills, the rain holes are completely clogged on the interior.
So, is there a risc with timing belt on a NB-FL 1.6 in general?
excellent video, useful for all mx5's. what kind of leather restoration paste are you using?
considering getting one of these for a summer roadtrip to italy... a little bit concerned about the lack of luggage space but yknow... travel light...
that yellow one looks like an 1.8, and intake neck is straight not pointing down, and the lettering on the rocker cover is indented not raised . am i wrong?
No idea this was made a long time ago.
What was in the baggie under the floormat?
Hmm, I saw a site saying the engine can go 400,000 miles. 150K isn't that much really. I guess it all depends how it was taken care of. I wonder to if it's worth getting a lithium battery when old one goes to save quite a few pounds.
Personally aware of a NA and NB that got over 200k. The lighter lithium battery would affect the touted 50-50 weight balance but would not be noticeable and certainly not worth any perceived advantage given their outrageous price.
Hi, gonna look at a mk2.5 1.6 with 104k this is very helpful video many thanks👍
brilliant video - defn things to look out for - hadnt seen this then but bought one in February waited since they came out in 1989 - lucked out with mine was a cat d but about 5 months from new - never driven on before dest drive - got out and bought it immediately - 53 plate - hadnt had a service for a while and tracking was out - besides that ...
never been that bothered with driving only as part of my job but i cant keep myself out of the thing - in the garage at the moment to get the sills done - preventative maintenance - chasis rails ok
Once again really great advice
Great vid mate 👍. Loved it I’ve had a few and you’ve nailed it thanks. 👌
by any chance would you have any rolling shells?running and driving that have minimal rust ? crash damage whatever aslong as he chassis and suspension is solid?
Thank you for this video ! I am looking to buy a non lemon and this really helped . Simple to follow , informative and clear 🤓☑️
Very entertaining. I have an RF, but still enjoyed the clip. Great advice, love the enthusiasm.
Great video. Just a question : you say the engines are rocksolid but also to walk away from engines with more then 150K so what kinds of issues are to be expected at those 150K plus engines ?
*not a miata owner, i just repeat what i have heard* well firstly the oil leak from the exhaust he mentioned in the video, i have heard about an annoying engine knocking sound that happens for no reason and sometimes changing oil will stop it 🤷🏼♂️ and lastly and a bit more of my opinion, even for a 20yo car i wouldnt trust an engine with 150k miles even if it was the worlds most trustworthy engine
Hi Matt,
Great Video, love the attention to detail etc.
My mum bought the MX5 California Limited Edition in 2000, from new when they just come out. Only 500 of these were made. She still has the car but unfortunately due to rot on the nearside front chassis rail and some corrosion to the subframe mounting. The body of the car is not bad for it's age and she wants to keep it. However, I did approached an MX5 restorer in Buckinghamshire who agreed to do the work but due to unforeseen circumstances he unable to commit. There aren't may restorers in the Southeast and they tend to be miles away.
Does anyone on here know of any MX5 restorer ?
Any advise would be appreciated.
Thanks
Dee
Hey this video is great! I recently bought an MX-5 without doing all these checks and I got lucky...
However, I was wondering if you could do a video, or you know of any guides, that would be good for rust maintenance?
Thanks!
Hi Freddie, your local garage would be a good start. The videos that are posted about MX5 rust repairs on RUclips are generally greatly over exaggerated and chase minor surface rust on inner panels by cutting out whole chunks using an angle grinder, it's crazy. So a local garage would be best as they'll offer you no BS advice normally. Matt
I've watched a few of your FPV videos before, was totally surprised to come across this one. Looking forward to getting a nb one day and this video is on point, exactly what I was looking for :) thanks for the great content.
Matt! Please tell me what the little button switch underneath the steering wheel does. It's driving me nuts not knowing what it does. Mine's an NB MK2 1.8 from 2000. And also, might I add this was the best 'how-to-buy-an-mx5' video I've ever seen. I wish I had bumped into this before getting mine. xx
Looking at buying one right now. The model's petrol flap doesn't open. Do you know if there's a fix?
Mine was same as the green one. Same colour, lots of rust. Sills an front chassis.
I never discovered why water was collecting in battery box.
Aww mate, open diffs are not happy days, they suck, if you want to go sideways an lsd is a must have, and im sorry to be such a child but coming out of junctions and roundabouts on opposite lock is just cool, fact! I'm looking for an mx5 just now and I wouldn't buy one without a slipper preferably torsen. Good to see someone make the effort to help others though, well done.
Thank you so much for this very informative video, I have learnt a lot from you.
A good 1.6 can easily pass 300,000 miles. Though I've seen them do it, most 1.8s are pretty tired by 150k. The 1.6 is a better revving engine, and gets better gas mileage. Agreed as to rust. Bought a parts NA for pocket change; a good running rust bucket. I fixed it, and drove it for many years, but I would have been dollars ahead to leave it a parts car, and buy an unrusted car- they do exist! Also the 1.6 has embossed lettering on the cam cover; the 1.8 has raised. Pay attention to manual window winders; they wear out, bind up, and they are no longer serviced by Mazda.
Funny, the amount of lies 1.6 owners will tell themselves to sleep better at night :)
Is it true that they are a non interference engine so no worries if the Campbelt goes?
Yes. The car just comes to a stop. In the rain. Or snow. At 3am. A thousand miles from home. During an ice storm, when the wait for a wrecker is 3 days. @@mick0846
I've had NAs with both. IMHO, the 1.6 is the more durable engine. It revs better, gets better fuel mileage, and runs longer before it starts using oil. Never blown up a 1.6; I have exploded a 1.8. Granted, it was under 16 lbs boost, no intercooler or engine management. and 160k on the unit@@TheHaferkeks
Amazing video., great advice thanks for your effort 😊
The nice part of living in a desert is that rot is a LOT less common than somewhere like the UK
I’ve just bought a nb with 24000 on the clock garaged in mint condition but it’s got a boss stereo and wanted apple car play but apparently it’s a nightmare to fit…I live nr westbury…might check these guys out
What make grill is that on your svt sport? As looks like a nice fit
Thanks for this awesome video! I used this before buying my NB, which I am picking up in two days. I'm worried about rust...it looks v clean, as it was imported from Japan. However, it is rainy season. Should I be concerned driving it in the rain? I hear water gets stuck in the frame rail sheets of metal. I plan on spraying Fluid Film inside the crevices.
So helpful appreciate the video so much since I have no experience in this cheers mate
I'm 6f3 with very long legs, think i'd fit in the mk2.5 okay?
Worth mentioning that a cat n car even if it may be perfect after the repair the cat marker will knock 30-50% of the market value straight off the car so never pay top marks. Most insurance company's will also charge a higher premium for a cat car or not insure it at all. Great video! I'd love to have a mooch for parts at your place 😂
Great vid. Any thoughts on ecu chips, are they worth it?
Any views or advice on buying a Mk1 California
It depends on the price. You can get full sill replacement sections, which is doable if you get the car cheap (under a grand) enough.
hi Matt love the video! i found it very informative well done!!...
I got 15 minutes into the video and decided I'd seen enough . I've gone right off the idea of owning an MX5. 😐 Thanks for the upload.
Stuart, probably a good idea. Finding a good one is hard. Matt
Never driven an MX5 you have missed in life. Impossible to drive one without a smile on your face.
This is great video, really helpful. I've got a 2.5 1.8i sport as well.
I changed all fluids and filters (not fuel one yet), and brakes, but haven't yet changed the spark plugs. I've no service history so no idea if the plugs are original. Does it really improve the performance to put new ones in? I've put it off as it looks more difficult 😬
Could you recommend good plugs and leads pls? Thank you
My 99 NBs get about 30mpg and my 02 NB Special Edition gets 33mpg.
Great Video! Very informative!
I have a 2003 vvt 1.8, 6 speed, lsd with 60 thousand miles on the clock. I don’t think it’ll pass the next mot due to rot. How much money could I break it for or how much would someone buy it for, for them to break it? Any answers would be greatly appreciated.