Ford 4.6L & 5.4L 3V Triton Spark Plug Removal
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- Here are the parts and tools you will need-
9/16" Spark Plug Socket-
amzn.to/2P4Y0E6
5.4L Plugs- (**LATEST PLUGS SP546**)
amzn.to/2KvN5CI
4.6L Plugs (** LATEST PLUGS SP547**)
amzn.to/2KuWevk
Ford Carb Cleaner Part# PM-2
www.amazon.com/...
Ford Anti Seize Part# XL-2
www.amazon.com/...
A proven removal method that will yield good results. Having the engine warm not hot for removal is ideal but is not always viable in every situation. You are bound to break at least a few, and for that you should watch my other video on extracting the broken plugs.
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.
Here are the parts and tools you will need-
9/16" Spark Plug Socket-
amzn.to/2P4Y0E6
5.4L Plugs- (**LATEST PLUGS SP546**)
amzn.to/2KvN5CI
4.6L Plugs (** LATEST PLUGS SP547**)
amzn.to/2KuWevk
Ford Carb Cleaner Part# PM-2
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NU5M3W/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000NU5M3W&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=RONLOBF4ZX76C3ON
Ford Anti Seize Part# XL-2
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NUBH22/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000NUBH22&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=BJL5Q4BWXCIW6KNL
FordTechMakuloco hi at minute 5:45 did you put some carb cleaner to help getting out easier?
Hi you listed the sp546 but said the sp515 is the lastest. Which one is best to use.
The metal threaded part cane off while trying to remove spark plugs. The rest of the spark plug remained in the valve. Will I need to use the lisle tool to remove the rest of the plug?
ItzMeTG yup
Oh no, not Ford!!
doh
2006 f150 5.4 205,000mi - I had to remove pcm & bracket to get to passenger far back. Didn't have time to wait overnight but after hour of carb cleaner I worked them back and forth until hand loose. Luckily my plugs had been replaced before they came out easy once cracked. 2 were hard to crack but carb spray works. A universal is needed for passenger side. Patience. This channel has saved me so much money. I'm becoming a member today.
I just did mine and did what this video said...On a cold engine, do one side first, loosen 1/4 turn, spray in carb cleaner, cover sparkplug with plastic wrap, let soak for 2hrs, remove plugs slowly, plugs will be tight, once plugs are almost out, take compressed air to blow out remaining carb cleaner, remove plug, put high temp anti-seize on threads, replace plug, put electrical grease on boot, replace coil. That is what i did...worked great, did not break single plug. I have 2004 ford f150 5.4l triton engine first spark plug change.
fecklar1905 would u recommend trying this without impact tools or a compressor?
Using anti-seize is unnecessary because the new spark plugs are solid, one-piece and also, the anti-seize will change the torque specs for the plugs...assuming you torqued them to specs in the first place.
@patricksproperties671 facts. Guys useing a impact on plugs to lolol
Anti seize is terrible idea on these.. just saying
@thetimetraveler1427 It's actually a real thing on these believe it or not. Just look it up. I suggest watching Mason on the channel Flying Wrenches. He had a short of it.
These old vids are the gift that keeps on giving. Thanks for all these.
"Hopefully, one breaks off..." Now THAT'S something you don't hear often! Thanks for the video.
you funny.....
Lol I was thinking that to very brave 😂
I’m gonna hope for this every time I change my plugs. Every time I wish they don’t they do. Hopefully when I hope they do they won’t.
Last time I did mine, I broke 5. I guarantee that the word hope was used prior to execution in a much different context, and many other 4 letter words were used during the process. 😮
I did it! I did it! Lol! Thanks for your awesome informative videos! Own my first ford. 2005 f250 5.4 3v and i changed spark plugs and coils today. Followed your video and worked great. This is the way to do the job every 5.4 3v owner fears. I have been a chevy man my whole life, and have replaced transmission on all i have owned. Decided to buy used Ford truck and then found out about 5.4 3v issues. I stumbled across your youtube channel and put me more at ease. Thanks for the videos. I have been all over the internet looking for how to info, and your videos are a go to for a lot of Ford mechanic websites, blog and internet sites.. Good job! Will be watching your videos. Thanks again!
All american vehicles have problems. Just switch to toyota and never look back
I don't know if you still have your truck, but if you do champion has made the regular one-piece design all along. I replaced mine original plugs with champions after the first change and you don't have to worry about doing all this preparation you just go in and take them out like you normally would. If you have a 2008 and newer you don't have to worry about this because they redesigned it. If you haven't switched the champions I would recommend it. Hey on the bright side spark plugs aren't that big of a deal it's not like you have a Toyota that that will rust in half on you😂
I bought an 05 F150 with a 5.4, 3 valve. It started to shudder on acceleration. Figured with 150K miles it was due for plugs.
I followed your advice on cracking them loose and then soaking them with carb cleaner. Using the 1/2 in drive ratchet is genius. I let them soak about 4 hours and then blew out the plug wells with the blow gun. All 8 came out without a hitch. Replaced the boots and cleaned the terminals on the coils.
She runs like a champ now. Thanks Man!!
Hi Brian I just changed my spark plugs in my 07 F150 and coils. Did it the way you described in the video just used hand ratchet. Took me 3 hrs total,the first time I did it before I didn’t know about Your channel. I broke 4 and took me 2 frustrating days to do it, but I did use nickel anti-seize on them and that help them come out the second time tremendously better. I have 120,000 miles on it now and I’ve learned a lot on your channel I appreciate your work,thank you hope this helps somebody else. I live in Ohio and I’m gonna come to see you to do the phaser timing job maybe in the spring 2020 thanks again
I made it through all 8 today. None broke. :) I used lots of penetrating PB blaster. I couldn't find Kroil anywhere. I just turned a quarter turn back and forth until they came out. The plugs removed were HT1, so I put ht1 back in. 157,000 miles. Thank you for the video.
Any issues reaching the ones in the back??
just finished with 2006 5.4 106k miles original plugs , using your advice, no broken plugs, 4 hours ,probably 2 next time. your videos are great examples !!!
THANKS!! I first ran seafoam through the tank and the vac line. Then I sprayed down the wells with PB Penetrant and let them set for 24 hrs. Then used the impact wrench. All 8 came out. None broke!!
Kudos my friend. I used your method as well as some advice from my Mr. Tanguay. I ran 2 cans of Seafoam through it and then followed your instructions on removing coils and letting carb cleaner sit over night. I had nightmares about doing this. It is an '05 with 199,765 miles and same factory plugs. Great news..all came out intact except one and its tip was the only thing broken off (all ceramics had already been lost in cylinder and expelled through valve. Thanks for your videos.
What does your last statement mean? I'm in the exact same boat with an 05 grand Marquis
mr tanguay from mass?
I watched a few videos including this one and did my '05 SUV and my sister's '05 SUV over the last few days.. 15 plugs, 0 broken...
The method I used is simple, Impact Wrench only. My truck was cold (off for over 12 hours) and hers was hot.
The carb cleaner was unnecessary. It did nothing on my truck and I didn't even use it on her truck.
Rigid battery operated Impact wrench with regular 9/16 Husky deep socket, extensions (both ½" and 3/8"), and a ½" universal impact wrench joint was all I needed to remove each plug. It worked flawlessly.
My dad tried to do 1 by hand using the carb cleaner method, it broke. The rest I did using the impact wrench.. Took about 4 ½ to 5 hours per vehicle.
Thanks for all the information! I hope this also helps someone.
Thanks so much for making your terrific video. I did just exactly as you described and was all set for a harrowing day. All went well! I did discover that in late 2008 Ford finally made a correction and made heads for the 5.4 V8 Triton motor that accepts regular "normal" type spark plugs. You can tell what kind of plugs are in your truck by the color of the coil plug boot. If the boots are black, then you're going you have the achy breaky spark plugs. If the boots are brown you should have the new head design normal type spark pugs. Thanks again for taking the time to make your terrific video!!
Ok. But what about the people that still have the old head? They should do a recall and change them out for free!!
I followed your instructions exclusively...even let it set over night. Seven of eight broke. Used a ratchet...did not have an impact wrench.
Back two could not get out. Towed to a rip off garage. $3000 later got it home and it ran awful.
Saw a youtube where you take the leads off the battery and connect them with an alligator clips wire for about 5 minutes.
Reconnect the battery....Make sure nothing on the vehicle is on...the computer will learn your vehicle completely fresh is what I understand
1) Turn on vehicle and let it set for 5 min
2) Start vehicle and let it run about 10 min
3) Drive the vehicle around going sort of easy...stopping, turning, blinkers, flashers; slowly start turning on things and let it run for a bit---A/C, heat, radio, wipers, windows up and down, etc. Reverse, different gears....you see what I am saying. Let the computer learn everything about the vehicle all clean and fresh.
4) After a day or so you can drive it a little harder....and it's gonna drive so clean and smooth.
Doing the alligator clips clears TOTALLY everything on the computer from what I understand.
I think the key thing that REALLY made the difference for broken plugs or not is the warm engine....not the carb cleaner, ratchet or impact.
Ford should have offered a free first time plug change on these engines. And the engineers should have been put in the soup line. Sorry.
I just did my 06' explorer this morning. Cracked the plugs 1/4" turn last night and soaked them with carb cleaner. I don't think that very much cleaner penetrates down into the carbon, I didn't see any level change in fluid this morning. I think once it starts spinning, it leaks in and lubricates everything to help with the removal. I hit them this morning with the 3/8" impact. I used the shortest extension that I could get away with. I also used just enough torque to get the plugs moving and keep them moving. They didn't spin fast until they were almost out. I had no problem and I saved all eight from breaking. It's amazing how many garages use this method although Motorcraft says to use a torque wrench.
I was not looking forward to replacing spark plugs on my 2005 f150 5.4l 3vl. I purchased the truck two years ago and now it has 140,000 miles on it. I heard about the spark plug issue when I first got the truck and thought it wouldn't hurt since I wasn't having any issues with plugs but knowing I would be doing a tune up eventually to start using seafoam in gas tank. I added seafoam to my fuel tank about once a month until current date. I just changed my plugs to the revised 546 plugs a couple of days ago, no problems what so ever, all plugs broke loose with ease no squealing or noise or binding while coming out. Once they were out found little to no carbon build up on the ends of the plugs. I know my senerio took place over a long period of time so can't speak to just how many cans of seafoam it would take to clear carbon from ends of plugs for easy removal but I would think if you added it accordingly for a couple months you should be good. I never coment but thought people should know about this with all the horror stories out there. Crazy because my plan from the start was to dissolve the carbon in the intake hoping I would not run into the problems everyone else was with breaking plugs off due to carbon build up. It payed off because they all came out with ease and no crazy noises or squeaking while removing. Hope this helps.
Great video. Thank you for the tips. I did everything the way you said to. ALL of the plugs on my 2006 Expo w/112K miles came out in 1 (ONE) piece. BOOM!
Steve Willsey
What do you do if you don’t have an air compressor to blow out the debris?
@@daryld.7472 yes, please. Update. Much appreciated
@@daryld.7472 its a late reply but, you can pick up a small compressor for under $150. You can also use a can of compressed air but, you'd probably go through a can per cylinder or 2
I had the hex portion come off on a plug before, the threaded part stayed in the head. What a disaster that was. I had to use a square flute extractor tapped in there to get it out. I was sweating bullets that day
Just did this to my 2004 f150 with 245000 kms on it, used the carb cleaner and let soak for 20 minutes and rattled all 8 plugs out without a problem, I purchased the lisle tool just in case but never had to used it, this method works awesome, you can really see how the carb cleaner eats up all the carbon, i was really worried about doing this job and did lots of research on different methods and this is the one I felt most comfortable with and ended up changing all my plugs in less then an hour, highly recommend the carb clear method.
mike furlong could I ask you why you did it? I have an 06 which sputters majority on the hi way. I'm just not sure I should do this or the fuel filter/ injector. That's why I ask
mike furlong mine hesitates between 40-55 mph and new plugs and coils fixed that
How did you get to the ones damn near under the fire wall about to tackle this job wed on a 04
Thanks for the detail. One thought, I appreciate that we don't want anything falling into the cylinder, but wouldn't it be more efficient to pull all the wires and then loosen all the plugs and put the cleaner in to start soaking? Then you don't have to wait between each plug, but all plugs will be soaking at the same time?
I have an F250 5.4L. 122k miles. I'd guess factory plugs.
Just bought it and its misfiring. Gonna do plugs and coils in a week or so... Gonna try this method because it is simple and seems to make good sense. Had no idea this was an issue but glad to have something else to keep me up at night with worry haha.
Isaac Fuller did it correct your misfire?
Have done a few of these even on the V-10 #5 cylinder man that was fun. I've tried these methods but the best one for me was what i read on here somewhere is to start engine and get as hot as possible do one side then heat back up and do the other side, I'm sure you have heard of that or done it yourself.That was the easiest and quickest way for me. Whatever works! Great Videos, Thanks for posting.
prmayner Yes I have heard of this and have tried it.
One day it would be nice to have a video of the plugs coming out after the application of antiseize to see if it is any easier.
I have a 2008 f250 5.4 that I recently just did plugs on. Put in sp546 (My 08 is the previous head design that doesnt use the sp515's). Anyways I disconnected the battery to do this for safety. during plug change, I found a plug that was loose (thankfully not too loose though). The initial time I put back my ignition coils, I loaded them with too much dielectric grease I believe...but the truck ran stinking smooth and had plenty of power! Drove it for about 45 minutes or so when I started feeling a jolt in the engine rythym (felt like a miss) while I was stopped at a red light. this then became more frequent as I drove on until the engine began running pretty rough, even when driving. Felt like misfires. Not once did the check eng light come on. I went back to clean out the excess grease, thinking that was affecting connectivity. I noticed several ignition coil pigtail wire connector tabs had broken so I've replaced those. also replaced all ignition coils (truck has 201k-figured it was time). Combed my enging for vac leaks-found none. For 201k the previous owner seemed to have kept up on the lines or something- they didnt seem too bad. I checked my fuses, ive cleaned my throttle body (was pretty dirty), and then I had battery Disconnected for awhile to reset the memory. had all accys off and turned key halfway and let it do its thing for 10 seconds, then started the engine and let it idle to temp. As the engine warmed I noticed a pass side ticking (truck has had a tick for awhile but never affected engine like im experiencing now). I took it for an easy test drive to help re-learn the shift points and all. Still having a really noticeable engine shake. Best I can describe is a bouncing feeling. Also when I drive and keep consistent pressure on the gas pedal, the acceleration seems to be pulsing almost, and not getting good consistent power.
I've been careful to use Motorcraft parts for the plugs and coils (dg511 coils) What am I missing? or am I just being impatient while the truck re-learns? since my latest work today/battery disconnect, I've driven it say 20 mins after letting it idle to temp. Thanks a ton! this has been keeping me up at night for the past week.
Did you figure it out?
@@getfurtherfasterdealer said cyl 1 was dead and no compression. they suspect a lifter blew out as an unrelated failure. their quote was about $500 less than a new engine so I went that route.
My 5.4 triton hunting truck has been misfireing for about a year and a half now haha. Once it warms up here in mn I'll be replacing plugs/coils.. should be fun. Can't wait to see what the plugs look like
How did it go?
Hey man, I have no way of messaging you. But I want to let you know because of your videos and how structured they are my buddy and I managed to do everything from my timing on my '05 3v to plugs without any issue. Got all 8 plugs out without them breaking, timing set along with cam phasers. I REALLY appreciate the excellent videos. Thank you so much!
Did you use impact or ratchet on the plugs?
What I’ve found best to remove original plugs is if you run the engine at 1500 RPM for approximately 10 minutes either on its own or with the fuel inj. flush (PM5) so the engine can be hot and hit the plug with a 1/2 impact but keep the socket/ extension as straight as possible also don’t put pressure on the plug. Best way is the flush which is you get the engine hot and hit the inertia switch or unplug to switch the fuel pump off and directly plug the flush to the fuel line and plug the vacuum fuel rail sensor hose and continue to run the engine to clean the carbon out the cylinder walls including the plug tips which is what seizes in the head. (Mix the (PM5) with gas)
Would have been nice of them to apply anti-seize compound from the factory.
Or replace your plugs more often I’ve never had a stuck plug in my 3v😂
The employees are to worried about getting a break and crying to there union or stupid petty stuff to put anti seize on them
That would make sense yes but then the lazy people wouldn't be forced to seek out dealer mechanics at 150+ an hr
My 2010 just turned 60k miles with the 3v 5.4. This will be fun.
I like your video because all the time you share the link for all parts and tools 👍👍👍💪🇲🇽thanks
I bought my truck for next to nothing because it would sputter on the highway and even on hills, so I decided to go right through the truck because of the high km's, so I changed the spark plugs, i ordered 8 new cool packs but still haven't received them yet, while doing the plug job I noticed one of my coil packs had a crack in it, these trucks are known for coil pack problems, there's also a fuel pump drive module mounted to the frame of the truck above the spare tire, these are also known for corrosion problems, I checked mine out and there was a hole in the back of it from corrosion so I ordered one of those as well.
You make it look so easy. Thanks for taking time to show us!
Works 90% of the time, Every time......
That doesn’t make any sense.... 🤨
the best thing i have personally found to get the plugs out (after getting tired of breaking them all off 100 times...) is to let the motor sit overnight, and take the out with a stone cold motor with an impact gun. i have had amazing luck like this! yes, some still break, but i have a lot less break since going that route.
I'm so scared to use the impact gun
I show the comment you sent to my son for his truck and he caught my error. He has a 2000 Expedition. I am sure you caught my error too. I is a V8, 5.5L (330 CID); SOHC 16V; EFI engine type. Since I do not see 3V in the details I wanted to confirm it was the same answer for that the piugs should come out prior to starting the removal. Thank you for the great video's.
Jeff Carpenter Yeah the 2v plugs come right out.
I have been watching your vids about the spark plugs breaking and how to extract etc. Come to find out, the day I was going to change plugs on my 2008 F150 (had all wrong plugs, coil and boots ready to install) just happen to read a Ford Forum online that talked about the change that Ford had made on engines starting 10/2007 on the new design of valve, spark plugs etc. I looked at my Coil boots and they are "Brown" in color then looked on my motor and it was built 03/2008! So to make this a little shorter, check your coil boots and if they are black you have the bad design plugs, but if they are brown you need the updated plugs Motorcraft SP-509 one piece that will not break off! Consider yourself very lucky! Still follow the cleaning with airgun, and spray a small amount of penetrating oil (Aerokroil's great) plus nickel high temp on the threads. I was damn lucky and hope you are too!
You are very lucky to have the late model yes that is how they should have been designed since day 1.
I spent 2 weeks watching your channel (mainly) and a few others and got to the dive in and do it mode, then bam! I looked at my motor then the boots and what a relief!!! Thanks for your knowledge, without it I might have done it my way :(
I have worked on my own and family cars since I was in high school , but not a full blown mechanic. People like you are a great asset to those who need help!
Wow lol...I have watch several videos and they all stressed that you should Always take them out by hand...until I watched this one...using an impack ...absolutly the best way he says lol crazy...
I have changed the plugs on my 5.4 three valve twice. The first time, I broke 2, the second time I broke 3. The thing that I DO NOT understand is that once you turn the plug even a little bit, if the plug breaks, it's game over, but you HAVE to back the plug out a bit for the solvent to get to the sleeve where these plugs get stuck due to carbon build up. I am nearly at 170k, and getting ready to change my plugs again, but I really think doing the initial quarter turn, before soak should be when the engine is at operating temperature while the carbon has softened a bit from heat.
Thank you FTM for the EXCELLENT video. Nice, clear camera work. All tools, parts and procedures thoroughly explained. You took the time to get it right.
Thanks
Thanx for responding and thanx for your service to ours country. Don't forget Long Island on your tour!!!
Bugger I got to remove my plugs from the 5.4 3 valve motor. That's in my 2006 Ford Fairlane in Australia. Now I'm very concerned lol. But thank God I watched this. Cheers wish me luck. As the vehicle I own is called a G8 only 151 were manufactured. Stressed out. Lol😅
If only watching you do it accomplished it in my own vehicle.
I replaced the sparks in my 4.6 91 towncar with over 100k miles in 2005 and it went flawlessly for me. Didnt even know this was an issue haha.
I never thought I would see the day where an impact gun had to be used on a spark plug lol
First time I did it I used a Snapon MG375 3/8. My buddy told me this "trick" I didnt believe him at first, if it were to break then it would of broken by hand me thinks
Lolol light tho
Smh blows my mind I can’t watch sh!t like this 🤨
I started with #4 on my 07 EL 3V Expedition because it had a P0304 and after switching the coils around for a few days it threw the same code.
I was working mostly by feel to get the socket on the plug when it started to turn by hand and came out in one piece. Wish me luck with the others.
Great video I have picked up so many great tips from your channel. I have a 2006 F150 5.4 and I just finished with new plugs and coil packs. I followed all of your instructions and used OEM parts. All went well no broken spark plugs and I made sure to use OEM anti-seize and dielectric grease. The engine light that was on is now off but I have a little problem. Seems to be a little hard to start not too bad but runs a little rough and the idle goes slightly up and down I have no idea what is wrong now and I need to get a smog check. I just purchased a Actron CP9180 plus Auto Scanner but have not sat down to learn how to use it I am a newbie to automotive repair but trying my best to do things the correct way and you have been such a blessing. Any advise would be greatly appreciated I am tired from the spark plug job and a little frustrated that it now runs rough after all that work and new parts. Thank you for all your help have a blessed weekend. -Paul
miine does the same thing! did you ever figure out what the problem was?
@@Hookem65401 thanks!
Thank you for getting back to me.
Its also a good idea to replace the plugs sooner than later on these engines.
Im guessing I should do mine...12,000 on a 2001 Mustang.
Use about 1-2 teaspoon of Berryman Chem-Dip Carburetor & parts cleaner part# 0996 it dissolves carbon buildup WAY WAY WAY Better then any spray can stuff let set about 30-60 mins and plugs come right out
Dan theman my question is how do you apply the carb- dip is it liquid?
Yes its a liquid comes in a metal can smells bad but works great I use a metal spoon and drop it down the plug holes
WHERE CAN I GET THIS #0996 ?
Any of the Big auto Part Stores carry it Napa Autozone Advance auto even some Walmarts have it
THANKS for the great video training. Craftsman on both sides of the camera. Well done! Thanks
I’m starting my extraction process tomorrow, I did a quarter tank concentration of seafoam ran through twice gonna crack them a quarter turn spray carb cleaner down for the night and start yanking them out in the a.m.
So, how'd it go?
Mark McKelvy he didn’t make it
Great video. Love the Jason Gray in the background too!
Wouldn't turning it 1/4-1/2 turn just break the spark plug right away?
Camren Monroe No they turn a bit before binding and twisting this lifts it off the seat and allows the cleaner down to the tip.
Deep creep works a million times easier. I like your videos
I really like your videos, you explain everything so well God Bless you and thank you for sharing you work!
Great upload. Any ideas for a substitute spray for the Ford Pm2 spray Carb Tune Up cleaner ? (In 2023 this stuff has all but disappeared for sale online.) Is Ford re doing the formula or something? Thanks~
Great video! I have an 03' Expedition XLT 4.6L 130K miles. Never had the plugs replaced. I have always been concerned with the "spark plug blow out" issues I've heard so much about. Does the issue with the plugs breaking & the plugs blowing out affect this 4.6? (It was built on 04/03) thanks, keep the videos coming!
Your videos are amazing and so helpful for me as I'm barely learning about cars... and I LOVE the Christian music in background :)
it's easy to remove a plug in the front show how you remove the ones in the back
\
Thats easy too with the right tools. Extensions and swivels. Go to harbor frieght and get some.
you can also use deep creep in the cylinder on top of the plug let sit for 15 mins and comes out easy
Meh, experience tells me no after 20 years of working on 3v engines..
@FordTechMakuloco I am also ase cer and I just worked on one today and thats what I used to get them out all the time haven't broke 1
This convinced me to not change my spark plugs until I need to lol. It sounds like they're fragile.
Or, get ahead of it and change them early before they get more stuck. Use the new plug design and Ni antisieze
Okay, so this is, or ISN'T the two-piece. We have a 2001 Ford F-150 that has a messed up coil and we decided to replace them all at once along with the plugs. They sold me spark plugs that are single piece for some reason and told me it fits the truck.
Great channel man! I've found your videos very helpful. Thank you
You make the best videos. Sincerely. One question. You say to use 3/8 impact to remove. In the video, that looks like a 1/2 inch impact with an extension that reduces to 3/8.
+woog74 I do because my 3/8" lacks power but a quality 3/8" is best especially for the back cylinders or a stubby 1/2 " like this-www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAC0HNK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00IAC0HNK&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=ZHVY5A6MTGC5W7LR
Thanks. I am looking at compact 1/2 guns. Do you own the one in the link you posted? I have had my eye on this one, but can not find anyone who owns it yet. www.amazon.com/Mighty-Seven-NC-4630Q-Impact-Wrench/dp/B00YG7OXII/ref=pd_sim_sbs_469_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=318M8806n1L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1BJG5NQFR5GMK2H0P8T4
Any tricks for a plug that the socket won't fit on? I have a lot of oxidation around the plug and blew out the hole but still won't fit..and of course it's #8!!
So I have a 4.6L Triton v8 engine. I got my spark plugs, coil grease, and the anti-seize. This may be a stupid question, but how can I tell what voltage my truck is?
And I'm not entirely sure what the solution was that he sprayed in there to get that plug out, but what has everyone else been using? Top recommendations? I've just got an Oreilly and AutoZone over here.
I'm trying to work with the bare minimum to replace these as I don't have a nice large garage to work in (learning on how to repair my vehicles one problem at a time).
Thanks for showing us this keep up the good work
Thanks for the great video. I just got a 5.4 with 130k miles. Just wondering if there is a way to tell from the top of the spark plug (while still installed) if they have been upgraded with the SP-515. Are they visually different in anyway from the original design?
Thanks in advance.
No visual difference you must pull one
@@FordTechMakuloco I have one question,same process for 2006 Linconl Navigator 5.4 ?(spark plug replacement)
Great videos for sure- and appreciated to the regular shade-tree guy. Is this the same procedure as the v10? I have a 2008 F250 3V with 121K on it and I'm ready to tackle. 10X SP515 plugs, carb cleaner and dielectric grease already purchased. The reason I ask, is it seems the v10 isn't as common to break? Or is it just the rarity of the engine itself?
Thanks so much.
in the ones ive done, i did an induction/fuel inector cleaning first, then the carb cleaner and yet to have one break! but only done 2 set's
Yes I have done the actual BG Induction service before too with minimal results and have since given up. On these ones I was actually doing 2 trucks at a time one 80k and the other 100k the 100k was actually coming out easier, just how it is driven, fuel quality etc as to how much the carbon packs in there. Actually the extractor tool broke off in the head and I had to extract that too geez!
Thank God for my Tacoma. Thanks for sharing your knowledge my friend, God bless you and your family and business.
what's this thanking some invisible god for mechanicks?
should I change the ignition coil when I change the plugs?
You rock sir,links and all.Thanks again!
+River rat I like to help as much as I can.
I changed the plugs in our '07 Expedition at 100K miles. All came out in one piece...luckily. I also applied anti-seize to the threads of the new plugs. Do the plugs and coils in these motors need to be replaced every 100K miles? I think I read this in the owners manual. It's almost that time again. Thanks
Plugs every 60k miles, coils as they fail. Generally though due to heat start to fail at around 100k miles.
How do you know or test to see if a coil is bad?
@@janetangst9180 you can disconnect 1 coil at a time (from harness), if the engine runs/idles rough it's good. No change in idle then the coil is mostly likely bad or there's a bad circuit before the coil plug in.
Hey bud! I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator it does not have the bolted down coils. It is a 5.4 but I am not sure if it uses these dreded spark plugs or just regular spark plugs. I have been putting this off for awhile. Do you know if the engine I have has these spark plugs that are known to break off? Like I the coil packs are not bolted down and the engine looks different than the one you are working on.
got a 2005 f250 170k miles on it. just got it, and unsure whether the plugs have ever been changed. going to attempt it this weekend. this videos a huge help, hopefully i wont need the extraction tool. thanks for posting!
Oh man by that mileage I hope they were changed out a few times by now.
Apparently not...barely touched the first one to turn it a smidge for some carb cleaner... Broke right off. The other 7 should a blast!
Oh man sorry to hear.
No worries at all! Just used the lisle tool and it came right out... 6 more to go! Thanks a TON for these videos!
All changed... Only two broke, running like a top now, will need to purchase a coil or two, but those are cake.
I did this so I didn't have to pay 800!!! dollars for a mechanic to do it. They recommend that you run your truck for 5-10 minutes to warm up the spark plugs. I went to orielys auto and rented the spark plug extraction tool. 2 or 3 spark plugs broke and had to use the tool. When they break the tip of the spark plug stays in but the white ceramic also breaks. To get those out I just started the truck and it just blew out the ceramic then just used the tool to get the tip out.
Those plugs are so junk
Just bought a 2002 Ford F-150. Is this a thing with all 5.4? Or just with the earlier models?
of course that's the very front of engine plug, what about the others that are very hard to reach, especially with the metal fuel line directly above all of them?
Can it be moved or removed?
That's why I don't wanna do this to many steps..I should have just stuck with a chevy
An Amazon seller for the SP546 needs to/should update the fitment guide for the 5.4L plugs. By the way, there are some sellers on eBay currently selling SP546 fakes as well (review pictures and feedback). You have to question everything/everyone 🤔when it comes to the SP546/SP546X 2004-2007 F150 5.4L plugs (formerly "SP515" snap-off style). ...So now I'm considering the Autolite version.😑
Thank you makuloco, I appreciate all your videos, I changed my spark plugs like you said, but I did not have any nickel anti seize laying around so I used hi temp copper seize instead, is that going to ruin my engine,? Thanks anybody for help.
No fair, y’all pulled the easy access spark plug!
thanks......always enjoy your videos.....bob
So the reason for them breaking is carbon buildup? Is it only excessive amounts of carbon buildup that screw them up or is just normal amounts?
Even small amounts basically glues them in.
we have a 2000 Exhibition and the number 8 spark plug has a misfire code. When I tried to get the bolt off for the coil pack the head snap off it was very rusty. I then changed the coil and it still has the code come back. I was told not to attempt to take the plug out. After watching your video I am not sure an impact wrench will fit in that space. If I soak it overnight do you think I would be able to get it with just an 3/8 inch ratchet? What is your experience with number 4 and 8 plugs? Also your thoughts on if the coil pack will stay in place if it is not bolted down? I am not sure I can get the stem loose, Thank you for your time.
Jeff Carpenter The plugs on yours should come right out not being a 3v engine. The coils generally stay in place and will work for awhile yes.
Passenger side back plug . any suggestions on how to reach and break loose ?
I'm going to get my spark plugs changed in my 2005 expedition... With that risk of the plug breaking off into the head... Can I be legally charged to retrieve that from the head when my original work was to be changing coils and spark plugs?
Is it okay to use PB blaster for seized/stuck spark plugs and spray in spark plug well to soak for removal?
I bought a 2007 with a 5.4 and yesterday it dropped a cylinder and the engine light started flashing. Im gonna assume and i hate that word that its gonna be either a bad coil or plugs need changing its got 230,000 km on it thx for the video i almost got roped into paying 600 to get the plugs done but i think i should be ok.
I hope you see this what do you do to get a spark plug out that has both the metal collar and the top electrode removed , but leave behind porcelain in the head?
Can WD 40 be used to ease the removal of the spark plug or will that make it worse?
I would think any penetrating oil including wd-40 would work
How come Ford didn't make threads that would engage the whole spark plug's threaded area? I've mostly had older vehicles and I've never had this problem. Although I now have a 1998 F150 with a 4.6l engine.
Makuloco - video shows SP515, but to clarify, is SP546 the latest update and best replacement? Just bought a 2004 with only 44k miles. So hopefully time doesn't create stuck plugs and it's carbon from miles that causes difficult removal. Thanks for all your great tips!
I just change them more often so they don’t get stuck I’ve had one stuck not worth letting it get that bad!
OMG this gives a new meaning to "reverse engineering"
Bought this 2006 expedition years ago with 100,000 on it and put off the plug change at 130,000 cause of the terrible rap. Driver side used break bar quarter turn with overnight P B Blaster next day came out easy. passenger side all plugs screeched even with overnight P B soak and decided to remove P B and add wd 40 soak an hour. ratcheting two turns left one turn right with no noise and stopped for 5 min to allow wd to drain down threads cause it was tough to turn. I don't think I had an issue with the bottom of plug, it's as if the plugs were over torqued causing the threads to bind or Mr. Makuloco stating the different thread materials issue needing a dab of nickel anti-seize.
Did this not knowing they could snap, I thank the previous owner for using anti seize I got lucky lol
Any suggestions as to removing the coil pack/boots? Do you just twist and pull? Are there any tools/tricks that facilitate removal?