This is my usual pinned comment for updates, clarifications and corrections. Please let me know if you have any questions. - FYI, I have ordered another hotend I want to try and will post a new video once I receive it.
If you want to use single hot-end concept you need to mix filaments. This desing will fail due to clog problems etc I prefer mixing hot-end from bigtechtree or diamon hot-end.
I'm at 2:50 so i dont know what / how it will turn and I paused to write this! thanks for the time to tell/teach us and also for being honest and transparent. I really appreciate it, even tho from the intro i know that you didnt finishit at the time you start it. so thanks again I grabed the popcorn and a notebook and hiting play!
Didn't want to comment on every video watched, but I've so far seen the unboxing and review of the ender 5 plus, and now this one, I really appreciate the time you've taken to make this video. I am about to assemble my own ender 5 plus later today, I just have yet to talk myself past that 50lb box o.o
Thank you for the detailed video. I was starting to think my Hotend was faulty but seeing you have exactly the same problems reassured me that it’s just a design that needs to be revised.
Great video, it's basically a complete tutorial. It might not have worked for a dual color tall print with so many filament changes, but I bet it would work great for plaques, signs and logos, which are wide but not very tall, not needing that many color changes. I'll try this on my Ender-3 v1.
To do this type of dual extrusion on the cheap is tough. The key is retracting the filament and have it form a perfect shape so it can go back without getting stuck. Best bet for a budget solution is a mixing hotend, where both filaments are able to extrude and you're retraction is just a normal amount so it doesn't go past the heatbreak. Otherwise you have to retract with very special procedures and speeds to cool and form the filament tip. Doing that is a pain -- been there, got the t-shirt. There is a polished all metail heatbreak from distech, and it helps, but I really was at the end of my rope when I was trying that. I gave up on the filament swapping idea for a few years and built a large double idex printer (4 heads). I am going to go back into filament swapping with a Y-adapter now that I'm back to working on my 6' delta -- it's now fitted with a mosquito magnum, and the retractions on that heatbreak are very clean, so there is hope there. Note the parts I'm mentioning are brand name precision parts. Doing it cheap -- god bless. Oh and yes, having the firmware do the tool swapping is so much better -- duet has a great platform for doing that -- my 4 headed printer runs duet and so does my big delta now. PS -- subbed, I like the long form content while I'm working on machines.
1:09:46 I think adding a PTFE or Teflon tubing inside that part may prevent clogging during filament retraction. The sudden change in the diameter of the channel and/or contact with metal is disrupting movement or flow. That is a design flaw. Solid attempt though.
@@kerseyfabs The Toolchanges in PrusaSlicer are great and give a lot of finite controls to adjust tips. Which my guess here is that. But I wonder if a "Y" above the hot end would be better? www.seemecnc.com/products/2-into-1-dual-filament-feed-adapter-fitting-only?_pos=1&_sid=833904154&_ss=r
@@kerseyfabs As the y-construction mostly is simmular to the old MMU1, you might install PrusaSlicer with settings for mk2 and MMU1. Than edit printer settings to fit to the Ender 5 plus. Might help.
You technically can but since it's running the same software, it should be essentially the same setup. You can't use the stock display though since its software knows nothing about dual extruders.
Just a thought, instead of making a new spool holder for the other side raise yours up a bit and make a extended cap that would normally attach your old spool holder to the metal bracket so you'd have one spool either side of the bracket and by raising your original spool holder up the other one won't rub on your power supply.
With any multi filament configuration that utilizes 1 hot end I would ensure the hotend was up to temperture, prime 15-20mm at highspeed to push as much melted filament out then immediately retract it to the parked position. Kind of like doing a cold pull. This should reduce the chances of buildup you are experiencing with this build.
Where was this video three weeks ago!? LOL. I just sorted through this conversion on a ToAuto Pyramid. Only difference is I did a direct injection, it was already running Marlin and ToAuto offered me support with the firmware changes. My poor wife, I was yelling at the screen things like "Its going to hang up on the retraction!", "The problem is a ledge in the Y manifold!", "50mm retractions", "40mm purge tower with at least 250mm purge!" "Use a detached skirt around your part to do the initial purge and then you can put your purge tower wherever you want it" and then your print failed with filament jamming. I sorted it through to the end. Direct inject I think was maybe an advantage and once it was all sorted I am now getting beautiful, clean, shiney, translucent PETG prints that look like Christmas ribbon candy, PLA that works great but I don't often print PLA and I am printing Ninjaflex beautifully but am having trouble with not totally retracting due to the LONG flame shaped retraction not totally clearing the Y manifold causing a jam after a few color changes. I have not spent the time sorting the retraction issue yet as I don't have a 2 material TPU in front of me right now. I love that there are no two hot end problems with nozzle height and position and no issues with pooping and drizzling one color on top of the other. You were possibly still barking up issues with the purge tower looking like it was working but having a hidden problem with skipping a layer on the first change out to extruder 01 or depending on your version of Cura and your purge tower parameters skipping the 50mm long retraction on the the first change causing the color change to fail when the next new color collides with the first color still in the heat break due to the short retraction. I had unsolvable issues with 4.6 and 4.7 with a "sort of works" in 4.7 tolerating the skipped layer in the center purge where the bed adhesion problem was baby sitted through with a brim. I found a version on the forum only called Cura Master from 2017 that doesn't have the skipped layer issue and with a quick edit to the first call for T1 to add a 50mm retraction it does a perfect tower with no other edits. Oddly all other calls back and forth for T0 and T1 are fine. Your jamming issue is from complications from the fact that pushing through the Y manifold creates extra drag that can accumulate during the print unless addressed in a variety of manners. A mixing nozzle might be a better solution but I have not explored that. My interest in your video was to see what version of Cura were you running? I haven't explored other slicers yet, there is only so much time in a day as I am sure you know so I am coasting with my "work arounds". Great video, thanks for sharing., sorry for the long comment and run on sentences.
Seeing that multi colored blob on the end of the filament makes me think that the retraction wasn't enough. The retraction length allowed the filament to cool in the hot end tube before the Y split maybe add another 25-50mm to the retraction and retry?
Also that thermal paste you used may have done a really good job. While you would need to make sure the PTFE down tube be cool, that blob also makes me think it cooled too much. The retracting filament completely solidified before it could make it out of the down tube.
Wonderful job! It's been great to see the number of videos you have put out in the last 2 weeks. Thank you. I was looking into potentially getting a Chimera+ or Kraken (knock off, I know) and was looking to see if anyone else had done this. I will patiently wait for your next video.
Thanks Jeff! The last two videos, this one and the JGMaker, just took up a lot of time to build, film, and edit. So, videos like this just mean less content in terms of quantity. I hope the quality makes up for it though. I was looking at the Cyclops+ but it's a big investment for a testing video.
I cannot speak for the Chimera, but I do own a Kraken on a delta printer and I can tell you, that it is a lot of hassle with four nozzles spaced that much apart. The slightest warp in the build plate (and there is always a bit of warp, especially with a round plate) is causing problems and any brim from overextrusion will make an inactive nozzle rip the print off the bed. Even a tiny bit of play of the hotend mount will cause the nozzles to deflect, since they are off the center of the whole assembly. Therefore I vote for either IDEX or a shared single extruder as shown in the video. I ended up removing three nozzles and having a nicely water cooled single nozzle with the disadvantage of bein off center.
Andreas Hochuli That’s really good to know. The things I’m looking to print are large with .32mm layer height. Thinking about going with volcanoes as well so I can print big things quickly. But this is good to know as I might look more. Thanks for your insight!
I thought that you wanted to do everything you could to make sure the heat stays down in the hot end, NOT migrating up the throat tube into the heatsink. There's a reason that fun runs all the time at full speed.
Look for a multi-filament add-on called Pallette 2 from Mosaic. It allows you to add four different colors, or even four different kinds of filament into a single print on any 1.75mm printer, without any major alterations to your existing printer.
I'd love to get a Pallette 2 to try. It seems like a great solution. I doubt it would work well for multi-material prints though since I don't know how well they'd splice together. It's also a lot more costly than this upgrade.
@@kerseyfabs 3DPN did a couple videos reviewing it. They did show different materials like PLA or ABS combined with TPU for example, being used for tools. Yes it is a lot more expensive, but you get the added benefit of multi colored single prints that have the colors where you want them, AND it will work with any 1.75mm printer.
No sure heat sink compound is a really good idea on a hot end due to the high temperatures. They are much higher than the heat sink compound is rated for and could cause the chemicals to burn or vapourise into the air. Thanks for this video, even though I am 3 years late to the party. It's given me some good ideas for my Ender 5 updates
i started this video thinking i may do this to mine but by the time you get to firmware im totally lost...single colour or manual change multi-colour for me i think...
Thanks for the tip. The problem with the reamers is that they don't seem to be readily available in increments other than whole mm. Can you find any with smaller increments?
I HAVE BEEN STRUGGLING FOR WEEKS ON GETTING MY PRINTER TO WORK WITH MULTIPLE EXTRUDERS. MY QUESTION IS WOULD THIS ALSO WORK IF I WANTED TO USE A 3 IN 1 OUT HOTEND. AND WOULD I NEED TO CHANGE ANYTHING IN CURA START GCODE?
Thanks for the videos! Doesn't bother me what-so-ever if they are like an hour long when actually getting the details you provide ... tired of the uploaders who half-azz their videos with information just for the sake to appease the ideals of those who have a poor attention span to watch a video longer than like 10 - 20 minutes
I have seen the complete CR-X hotend assembly from local store for around $120. That seems to be a great alternative to 2 into 1? I would love to print in dual colours, but this type of hotend might be a problem when printing with different metarials.
You might use an MMU2 instead. You can get all the parts on Aliexpress for about 110$. Marlin 2.0.x supports the MMU2... Maybe you should also change the hotend to a v6-style with an original e3d heatbreak in PrusaEdition. It is formed specialy on the inside to optimice the form of the tip while unloading. This way filament change needs more time - but on the other hand you have 5 filaments and also while filament is changing, hotend temperature can change, so you can use different materials.
@@kerseyfabs Yes, like everything from Prusa it is Open Source / Open hardware. It has it´s own controller, communication done with serial connection between printer mainboard and mmu2 mainboard. So it should work with any board with a free serial port. But I have not tested it myself.
If you want to multi-colors you need something like the E3D cyclops. It has 2 independent filament paths all the way to the hot zone, but only a single nozzle. So you never retract all the way to the cold zone. If you want to print multi-material (water soluble support material) then you need something like the E3D chimera which is basically 2 independent hot-ends joined. However these can have problems with the hot-end that is not is use oozing. Look for panning dual hotend on thingiverse for a solution to oozing. But the hot-end you got will never work properly. BTW not pushing E3D, just that they have examples of both types of dual hot-ends.
Such a "splitter" design can work properly. It is all about foarming the tip correctly before unloading. Actually Prusa worked a lot of it, as any filament changer (like MMU1 and MMU 2(s)) has the same problem. Even single extruder printers can have such a problem (like the Prusa Mini had with early firmware versions). Simply it is all about purge before unloading and defining ramming speeds - or in other words: The right slicer. As Prusa experimented with such ways over 3 years now, the slicer of choise is PrusaSlicer. There you can do every settings you need for opimicing the process of changing filament without deformed filament tips.
I wouldn't mind doing that as a short video. I use a lot of different filaments and typically Google search and mix the advice for my fina results. For reference, I think MatterHackers typically has good advice.
Did you undo the separate Z-axis stepper drivers and G34 levelling to enable the second extruder? I don't know of any boards that have more than 5 stepper drivers, and you would need 6 to have both systems running.
Actually it is quite easy to add 2 or more stepper drivers if you use a board wich has exp1 and exp2 and internal SD (or serial TFT with it´s own SD slot). Simply set up CR10-Display (same as Ender 3 and 5) and connect it to EXP1. So EXP2 is free. EXP2 has 7 I/O-Ports, you can configure 6 of them in marlins pin.h to be used for STEP/DIR/!EN of two extra drivers. You can use sockets for Arduino (about $1,50) for using stepper drivers in standalone-mode there or alternativly directly connect the STEP/DIR/!EN pins of a closed loop driver to EXP2. If you have some free other I/O (like Neopixel output or power control), you might even another another stepper driver. So with common boards like MKS Gen-L, SKR1.3/1.4 etc. you can use 7-8 motors quite easy. Maybe you even change pin.h completly and redifine the internal sockets for e0, e1, z0, z1 and z3 (if you want 3 z-Axis and real ABL) and add close loop drivers for y, x0 and x1 (for IDEX). SKR even has an extension board for 3 additional drivers for the SKR 1.3/1.4 for about 10$ - it uses EXP1 and EXP2 (with TMC-controll) or EXP1 (if you use a SKR e3 mini; without TMX-controll) - it works by using a serial connected TFT, so you do not need EXP1/EXP2 for displays. But as I prefer 12864-displays with total control over Marlin, I prefer wiring extra steppers to EXP2. But there are many boards out there with more than 5 drivers: SKR pro, GRT, Duet with expansion board. But using EXP2 on a standard board is actually the quite cheapest way to expand a board.
For my testing, I did not use dual Z steppers, which still is not really needed. Ole is correct though, you can add additional steppers to one of these boards or you can get higher-end boards such as the SKR Pro which has 6 steppers. I'll be reviewing that board soon.
@@kerseyfabs But If you want to try IDEX, you will need at least 6 stepper drivers. As many people might have changed their printer mainboard already to an SKR 1.3/1.4/1.4Turbo, it would be nice If you use this board in your IDEX video. Adding a secondary printhead and extruder already is not cheap - an extra 50$ for a 6 driver board + 5$ for the 6st tmc instead of maybe 15$ by simply use a closed loop driver to exp2 for second x-axis seems quite a lot. Of course, for all people still having stock board, but planing both changeing to 32bit, TMC and using IDEX later might use an SKR pro from the start, as later modifications are more simple.
One aditional thought if you need even more stepper drivers: Many people use octoprint anyway. If you also install klipper, you can add multiple boards. So if anyone upgraded the Ender 5 / Ender 5+ by using a SKR e3 mini / 1.3 / 1.4 /1.4 turbo or anything else, your original controler will most likely collect dust somethere. You can add it in parallel to klipper and that way add 4 stepper drivers (and a lot of I/Os, Thermistor for chamber thermistor, mosfet for heater if you enclose yout printer, additional fans etc). For the feeders the A4988 of the original board are o.k. Mostly a raspberry pi is used for Octoprint. But you can use any PC - actually ThinClients often use not much more power than a Pi - and you sometimes can get them for $10 on ebay. I got some Fujitsu Futro S900 for that price. Add a 16GB mSATA for another $10 and you have a very powerful controller for a 3d printer. Of course you might add a cheap WLAN stick if you do not want to use LAN cables. Debian, Octoprint and Klipper have to be installed manually, but following the instructions step by step, thats no big deal. With Klipper for example you can define the 4 TMC2209 on an SKR e3 mini to be x, y, z0, z1 and the four A4988 as e0, e1, e3, e4... Of course you have a hard work to understand Klipper enough to config it. I only did one test with one board on an Ender 3 last year, But thats a promising way to make upgrades for a very low price, using obsolete hardware. Even a SKR e3 mini v.1.0 with defect x-driver can be reused - redefine in Klippers config only the other steppers are used. But the documentation is not easy to read - at least for me, as english is not my native language... Maybe something to think about if you want to use a mixing nozzle (like the diamond nozzle with 5 inputs). SKR 1.4 with TMC2209 on x, y, z0, z1 and A4988 on e0, original board with 4 soldered A4988 for e1-e4. So nearly no costs for upgrading the board to 9 stepper drivers, only for the 4 extra feeders (a BMG clone about $9 at a sale, a motor about $5)
How about going even longer on those hot-end attachment bolts and stacking two hot-ends with spacers between? I guess the stock fan won't fit then, but if you 3d print a shroud with abs, it should do fine ducting air past the heat sinks. And instead of handling retraction in your tool/filament switching gcode, you'll just move the print head(s) 2cm in the x or y direction... I'm not concerned with multiple colors, but would love to be able to use dissolving supports for more complex prints.
@@danielnorris9224 Yeah. You can retract but eventually the molten plastic will find it's way to the tip. Unless you retract out of the hot zone but then you have new issues.
Can this be configured to act as a run out system for continuous print? So spool one on E0 runs out, spool 2 on E1 starts. reload spool 1, and feed to extruder etc. I have prints that will take like 2.3 spools worth, and yeah, i could get a texas size 5kg roll but its sooo much cheaper generally to get 5 spools. I only am curious because I plan on getting the CR30 when it drops and having continuous filament seems fitting for that belt bed.
That's a really clever idea but I haven't seen anyone do that before. It would be relatively easy to do in firmware but I don't think I've seen that setting before.
@@kerseyfabs I've got an old ADIMlab gantry pro doing... well nothing. Did you figure out which hotels you wanted to run with? I'll gladly do the build
Chimera looks good. I have already pulled the trigger in buying this. I have not recieved it yet I might need some help with this badboy. Also pulled the trigger on the Bondtech x2 direct dual extruders as well. So this is going to be interesting. I know that you said before that you haven't pulled the trigger on this. I think another option for easier mod is the hemera with direct extruder which is build into it. Might be a good option as well.
I really do appreciate that you went with it and see if any of the budget 2 to 1 hotends to get something to workout for a nice price and a possible valuable upgrade.
@@kerseyfabs No problem! I had a few other ideas for content. I know you get this alot from your viewers. How about a video marlin vs klipper? Or a klipper installation video? The pros the cons, example: for a 8 bit stock board vs skr 1.4 board. Will it work for the tft 3.5 v3 screen? There isn't alot of documentation to set it up and all I know you can get insane speeds and acceleration on prints. Recently, I installed octoprint on rp 3b+ thanks!
You should have no problems with the Chimera. It is just 2 separate hot ends tied into one with the cooling system being the only joined part. And is fairly easy to level. Now the cyclops would have been a different story or at least was for me with the first version. I had similar problems with clogs and jams and I never did finish one print with it. Maybe the newer + version is better but I have no plans to try it. I bought the parts needed to turn mine into a Chimera and have been using it that way ever since.
Great video. Been staring at these on ebay and a few other sites for a while and wondered how to setup the second extruder. Was considering doing this to my CR-10, but the direct drive setup from Creality came on sale at Banggood, i got that instead. Already have SKR boards in mhy E3P's but not the one mentioned so i doubt they have support for the second extruder (Mini E3 and E3 DIP). Looking forward to see if you get it sorted though!
I'm wondering if I need to tear my Microswiss apart again and check to see if I have burs. You probably need to get some emory cloth, that will create a much more smooth surface than using a drill bit.
I haven't seen any manufacturing issues with MS before but sure to let them and I know if you do. I may look at color blending in the future but not any time soon.
Well, I haven't unboxed my Ender 6 yet, so I can't really give details. Maybe I'll revisit in the future. In general though, you follow the same steps. Hardware mods and firmware mods.
I didn't really work on it any further. I know there was a lot of interest but I haven't had any need for it myself. I may revisit it in the future as I start doing more mods again.
Isn't the purpose of the mating of the throat to the heatsink to dissipate the minimum of heat creep? so adding a thermal compound is actually allowing more heat to creep to the throat! this is just going to cook the PTFE and filament.
By using thermal compound, I am wicking away more of the heat from the throat into the heatsink where it actually gets dissipated. If the connection between the two is not good, the heat would build up in the throat and not be dissipated. That's the purpose of the heatsink.
Heat moves from the block into the nozzle and the throat. You need to remove the heat from the throat to reduce the melt zone. A heatsink is designed to increase the surface area of a hot component in order to disapate heat. We then cool the heatsink with a fan. Heat moves from hot to cold, thus the heatsink continues to pull heat.
That is easy compared to what I'm thinking about for dual colour printing . Trying to see if I can convert my ender 5 plus for IDEX printing . But waiting for this lost down to be over .
A great project. You did a lot of work to get all of the pieces put together and working. It's too bad that the dual nozzle was the weak point. Will be interesting in seeing a better nozzle solution. I would like to know how the ExoSlide is working for you? I'm looking at replacing my linear rails on the 5 Plus with one as it seems to present a much simpler way to attach a new direct drive hot end.
I love your videos👍 I am new at this and just ordered a ender 5 plus and i want to upgrade the motherboard and get rid of the stock touchscreen that I've heard is not good (limited) . What board and screen do you recommend that is ready for most (all) future upgrades? Would you also recommend direct drive extruder or just uppgrade to an all metal dual gear extruder? Keep the videos coming!
Yes, the video was fun. 2 colors with cheap materials from small printers I don't think is ideal for that printer. It is for large multi-colored Roman helmets :-))? PVA is already very technical, I have no experience to make recommendations.
I've had people ask about large format dual extruder printers and there's not really one on the market. This is a possible solution. Soluble supports is also a use case.
Do you have a link for your screwdriver kit? I really like all your in depth videos. have done several of the upgrades that you have shown on both my Ender 5 and Ender 5 Plus.
Thank you! The toolkit I use is the "Kobalt 856840 73-Piece Master Hobbyist Tool Set." Here's a link to the Amazon listing for reference: amzn.to/3mqUDIz FYI though, the current price, as I post this comment is too high. I paid around $40. You could keep checking back or possibly find it from another vendor. Thanks!
Here's my diagnosis. I'm sure you've been looking forward to this. I think the problem is inherent in this style of dual extruder because it requires retracting the melted filament past the "Y" joint junction. This is not a smooth transition even for a piece of cold filament and a hot piece could be mis-shapened beyond usability. Give that some thought. BTW, you need a set of numbered drill bits. Many more choices at smaller increments. BRAVO for showing your unsuccessful adventure.
What I've worked out !!! If you don't want to lose X size you need to extend the width with bigger aluminium extrusions and the y motor rods , but the problem is having 2 stepper motors on X.
Actually "bigger" also means to change from 2020 to 2040 extrusion, so you can use top side for one belt and down side for the other - and let go back the two belts inside the extrusion... This way two steppers on x are not so much a problem anymore - one on one end, using the upper part of the 2040, the other on the other side, using the bottom part.
@@oleurgast730 Not that easy !!! , The first belt on the 2040 is standard ? , one motor on one end a tensioner on the over , but the top part is not that easy , I think you have to mount the other one upside down on some sort of raiser plate and hope the tensioner doesn't hit the motor. I think it could be easier to tool changer that idex on the ender 5 ?
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This is my usual pinned comment for updates, clarifications and corrections. Please let me know if you have any questions.
- FYI, I have ordered another hotend I want to try and will post a new video once I receive it.
Why aren't you using dual gear extruders?
If you want to use single hot-end concept you need to mix filaments. This desing will fail due to clog problems etc
I prefer mixing hot-end from bigtechtree or diamon hot-end.
I need help with the silent motherboard v 2.2 ender 5 + activating the second extruder. Creality
@@ramtek2702 I haven't had any issues with these extruders in the past. They produce constant results.
@@wenus525 I may give that a try.
I’d been wondering how these budget 2->1 hot-ends worked out. Thanks for going through the process so I don’t have to! Looking forward to the update.
You bet! It was worth the try. I still like that it's a drop-in replacement. It just needs a better design.
I'm about to watch and already I know that it's gonna be a fun video. ;)
great video, sad it did not work but being new to this I am learning a lot before using my own new ender 5 plus, thank you.
You're welcome! That was the point ultimately, to just show how.
I'm at 2:50 so i dont know what / how it will turn and I paused to write this! thanks for the time to tell/teach us and also for being honest and transparent. I really appreciate it, even tho from the intro i know that you didnt finishit at the time you start it. so thanks again I grabed the popcorn and a notebook and hiting play!
Didn't want to comment on every video watched, but I've so far seen the unboxing and review of the ender 5 plus, and now this one, I really appreciate the time you've taken to make this video. I am about to assemble my own ender 5 plus later today, I just have yet to talk myself past that 50lb box o.o
Thank you for the detailed video. I was starting to think my Hotend was faulty but seeing you have exactly the same problems reassured me that it’s just a design that needs to be revised.
Great video, it's basically a complete tutorial. It might not have worked for a dual color tall print with so many filament changes, but I bet it would work great for plaques, signs and logos, which are wide but not very tall, not needing that many color changes. I'll try this on my Ender-3 v1.
Thanks! You may be right!
About to buy an Ender 5 pro and put Proforge 2S Dual Switching Extruder on it. This vid convinced me to take the plunge!! TY sir. Great Vid
Glad I could help! Good luck with your upgrade!
To do this type of dual extrusion on the cheap is tough. The key is retracting the filament and have it form a perfect shape so it can go back without getting stuck. Best bet for a budget solution is a mixing hotend, where both filaments are able to extrude and you're retraction is just a normal amount so it doesn't go past the heatbreak. Otherwise you have to retract with very special procedures and speeds to cool and form the filament tip. Doing that is a pain -- been there, got the t-shirt. There is a polished all metail heatbreak from distech, and it helps, but I really was at the end of my rope when I was trying that. I gave up on the filament swapping idea for a few years and built a large double idex printer (4 heads). I am going to go back into filament swapping with a Y-adapter now that I'm back to working on my 6' delta -- it's now fitted with a mosquito magnum, and the retractions on that heatbreak are very clean, so there is hope there. Note the parts I'm mentioning are brand name precision parts. Doing it cheap -- god bless. Oh and yes, having the firmware do the tool swapping is so much better -- duet has a great platform for doing that -- my 4 headed printer runs duet and so does my big delta now. PS -- subbed, I like the long form content while I'm working on machines.
Great video on a good topic. The Ender 5 Plus is a great foundation for a dual extrusion system. I really hope you can get some success out of this.
Thanks! It is a terrific platform that's easy to mod.
Super video! I applauded for $50.00 👏👏👏👏
Wow! That was very generous of you! Thanks for the support.
The length of this video made me instantly crank it up to 2x speed but it was worth it. Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it! I really wanted it to be as thorough as possible without fluff. I'm glad it worked out.
1:09:46 I think adding a PTFE or Teflon tubing inside that part may prevent clogging during filament retraction. The sudden change in the diameter of the channel and/or contact with metal is disrupting movement or flow. That is a design flaw. Solid attempt though.
Kersey, you need “ramming”. To form the tip. If you use PrusaSlicer you can form the tip by pulling back and pushing sequence while purging.
I'll look into that! Thanks!
@@kerseyfabs The Toolchanges in PrusaSlicer are great and give a lot of finite controls to adjust tips. Which my guess here is that. But I wonder if a "Y" above the hot end would be better? www.seemecnc.com/products/2-into-1-dual-filament-feed-adapter-fitting-only?_pos=1&_sid=833904154&_ss=r
@@kerseyfabs As the y-construction mostly is simmular to the old MMU1, you might install PrusaSlicer with settings for mk2 and MMU1. Than edit printer settings to fit to the Ender 5 plus. Might help.
Kersey, why can't you use the stock silent board for this? It has a 5th driver for E1 so I assume it would be easier...
You technically can but since it's running the same software, it should be essentially the same setup. You can't use the stock display though since its software knows nothing about dual extruders.
@@kerseyfabs thanks for the reply! Would this require any flashing or would it accept the slicer g-code if all hooked up properly?
You'd have to do all of the firmware configuration mention in the video.
@@kerseyfabs I'm not using a SRK board like in your video. If you recall, I'm trying to use the silent creality board.
Yep. And that board also runs Marlin firmware. If you add features, it has to be recompiled.
Just a thought, instead of making a new spool holder for the other side raise yours up a bit and make a extended cap that would normally attach your old spool holder to the metal bracket so you'd have one spool either side of the bracket and by raising your original spool holder up the other one won't rub on your power supply.
I like the idea. I'll check that out when I get back to it.
With any multi filament configuration that utilizes 1 hot end I would ensure the hotend was up to temperture, prime 15-20mm at highspeed to push as much melted filament out then immediately retract it to the parked position. Kind of like doing a cold pull. This should reduce the chances of buildup you are experiencing with this build.
A lot of that is built into the firmware and can be adjusted as needed. This was a long time ago but I'm almost positive I had that covered.
Where was this video three weeks ago!? LOL. I just sorted through this conversion on a ToAuto Pyramid. Only difference is I did a direct injection, it was already running Marlin and ToAuto offered me support with the firmware changes. My poor wife, I was yelling at the screen things like "Its going to hang up on the retraction!", "The problem is a ledge in the Y manifold!", "50mm retractions", "40mm purge tower with at least 250mm purge!" "Use a detached skirt around your part to do the initial purge and then you can put your purge tower wherever you want it" and then your print failed with filament jamming. I sorted it through to the end. Direct inject I think was maybe an advantage and once it was all sorted I am now getting beautiful, clean, shiney, translucent PETG prints that look like Christmas ribbon candy, PLA that works great but I don't often print PLA and I am printing Ninjaflex beautifully but am having trouble with not totally retracting due to the LONG flame shaped retraction not totally clearing the Y manifold causing a jam after a few color changes. I have not spent the time sorting the retraction issue yet as I don't have a 2 material TPU in front of me right now. I love that there are no two hot end problems with nozzle height and position and no issues with pooping and drizzling one color on top of the other. You were possibly still barking up issues with the purge tower looking like it was working but having a hidden problem with skipping a layer on the first change out to extruder 01 or depending on your version of Cura and your purge tower parameters skipping the 50mm long retraction on the the first change causing the color change to fail when the next new color collides with the first color still in the heat break due to the short retraction. I had unsolvable issues with 4.6 and 4.7 with a "sort of works" in 4.7 tolerating the skipped layer in the center purge where the bed adhesion problem was baby sitted through with a brim. I found a version on the forum only called Cura Master from 2017 that doesn't have the skipped layer issue and with a quick edit to the first call for T1 to add a 50mm retraction it does a perfect tower with no other edits. Oddly all other calls back and forth for T0 and T1 are fine. Your jamming issue is from complications from the fact that pushing through the Y manifold creates extra drag that can accumulate during the print unless addressed in a variety of manners. A mixing nozzle might be a better solution but I have not explored that. My interest in your video was to see what version of Cura were you running? I haven't explored other slicers yet, there is only so much time in a day as I am sure you know so I am coasting with my "work arounds". Great video, thanks for sharing., sorry for the long comment and run on sentences.
Seeing that multi colored blob on the end of the filament makes me think that the retraction wasn't enough. The retraction length allowed the filament to cool in the hot end tube before the Y split maybe add another 25-50mm to the retraction and retry?
Also that thermal paste you used may have done a really good job. While you would need to make sure the PTFE down tube be cool, that blob also makes me think it cooled too much. The retracting filament completely solidified before it could make it out of the down tube.
When I get a chance to play with this setup again, I'll try some other things out. Thanks!
Wonderful job! It's been great to see the number of videos you have put out in the last 2 weeks. Thank you. I was looking into potentially getting a Chimera+ or Kraken (knock off, I know) and was looking to see if anyone else had done this. I will patiently wait for your next video.
Thanks Jeff! The last two videos, this one and the JGMaker, just took up a lot of time to build, film, and edit. So, videos like this just mean less content in terms of quantity. I hope the quality makes up for it though. I was looking at the Cyclops+ but it's a big investment for a testing video.
I cannot speak for the Chimera, but I do own a Kraken on a delta printer and I can tell you, that it is a lot of hassle with four nozzles spaced that much apart. The slightest warp in the build plate (and there is always a bit of warp, especially with a round plate) is causing problems and any brim from overextrusion will make an inactive nozzle rip the print off the bed. Even a tiny bit of play of the hotend mount will cause the nozzles to deflect, since they are off the center of the whole assembly.
Therefore I vote for either IDEX or a shared single extruder as shown in the video.
I ended up removing three nozzles and having a nicely water cooled single nozzle with the disadvantage of bein off center.
Andreas Hochuli That’s really good to know. The things I’m looking to print are large with .32mm layer height. Thinking about going with volcanoes as well so I can print big things quickly. But this is good to know as I might look more. Thanks for your insight!
Maybe a more random question, I need the Pin names for the fan sockets on the 2.2.1 silent board. Where can I find them?
I thought that you wanted to do everything you could to make sure the heat stays down in the hot end, NOT migrating up the throat tube into the heatsink. There's a reason that fun runs all the time at full speed.
Did you ever find a high-quality two in one out hot end?
I didn't keep looking to be honest. I just don't have a need personally.
Very helpful ❤
I'm so glad! Thanks for watching!
What a great channel! Subbed. Continue the great work you do!
Look for a multi-filament add-on called Pallette 2 from Mosaic. It allows you to add four different colors, or even four different kinds of filament into a single print on any 1.75mm printer, without any major alterations to your existing printer.
I'd love to get a Pallette 2 to try. It seems like a great solution. I doubt it would work well for multi-material prints though since I don't know how well they'd splice together. It's also a lot more costly than this upgrade.
@@kerseyfabs 3DPN did a couple videos reviewing it. They did show different materials like PLA or ABS combined with TPU for example, being used for tools. Yes it is a lot more expensive, but you get the added benefit of multi colored single prints that have the colors where you want them, AND it will work with any 1.75mm printer.
@@PaganWizard I'd love to get one of those if it was more affordable.
No sure heat sink compound is a really good idea on a hot end due to the high temperatures. They are much higher than the heat sink compound is rated for and could cause the chemicals to burn or vapourise into the air.
Thanks for this video, even though I am 3 years late to the party. It's given me some good ideas for my Ender 5 updates
I know some companies such as Slice Engineering have Boron Nitride Paste, which seems to work at these temps. Cheers!
i started this video thinking i may do this to mine but by the time you get to firmware im totally lost...single colour or manual change multi-colour for me i think...
I will love to see a video of you trying the BIGTREETECH 2 IN 1 out hotend mixed color Extruder 12V/24V heater 3D Printer P Arts Hotend J-Head 1.75mm
usa-m.banggood.com/BIGTREETECH-12V-or-24V-1_75mm-2-IN-1-OUT-Hotend-Mixed-Color-J-head-Hotend-Extruder-Upgrade-Kit-for-3D-Printer-p-1739815.html?gmcCountry=US¤cy=USD&cur_warehouse=CN&createTmp=1&ID=22449554&ad_id=432153545270&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxNT8BRD9ARIsAJ8S5xY9y9BAN1Aycxg_AxKb8D_cNu30LmgZy9M-HrVGgMsOIS5q68IiLBkaApkUEALw_wcB
I may do that! Thanks!
Everybody seems to be doing that two in and one out hot ends. I have the Chimera with two in and two out hot end.
i would have used a reamer instead of a drillbit to make the hole smoother , you can get em cheap on e-bay
Thanks for the tip. The problem with the reamers is that they don't seem to be readily available in increments other than whole mm. Can you find any with smaller increments?
@@kerseyfabs
you can get em in 0.5 mm increment :)
www.mcmaster.com/metric-reamers/
I HAVE BEEN STRUGGLING FOR WEEKS ON GETTING MY PRINTER TO WORK WITH MULTIPLE EXTRUDERS. MY QUESTION IS WOULD THIS ALSO WORK IF I WANTED TO USE A 3 IN 1 OUT HOTEND. AND WOULD I NEED TO CHANGE ANYTHING IN CURA START GCODE?
Thanks for the videos!
Doesn't bother me what-so-ever if they are like an hour long when actually getting the details you provide ... tired of the uploaders who half-azz their videos with information just for the sake to appease the ideals of those who have a poor attention span to watch a video longer than like 10 - 20 minutes
I have seen the complete CR-X hotend assembly from local store for around $120. That seems to be a great alternative to 2 into 1?
I would love to print in dual colours, but this type of hotend might be a problem when printing with different metarials.
Thanks for the tip! You're right about the different materials. Until we find an all-metal solution, high-temp materials would be out.
Thank you so much for this! I have been looking to do the same thing with mine!
Glad it was helpful!
You might use an MMU2 instead. You can get all the parts on Aliexpress for about 110$. Marlin 2.0.x supports the MMU2...
Maybe you should also change the hotend to a v6-style with an original e3d heatbreak in PrusaEdition. It is formed specialy on the inside to optimice the form of the tip while unloading.
This way filament change needs more time - but on the other hand you have 5 filaments and also while filament is changing, hotend temperature can change, so you can use different materials.
Thanks for the idea. Is the MMU2 an open design? I really haven't looked into it.
@@kerseyfabs Yes, like everything from Prusa it is Open Source / Open hardware. It has it´s own controller, communication done with serial connection between printer mainboard and mmu2 mainboard. So it should work with any board with a free serial port. But I have not tested it myself.
what about dual nozzles? or even idex?
Dual nozzles are difficult to get leveled and not scraping, I've played with it. IDEX would be a lot of fun to build.
If you want to multi-colors you need something like the E3D cyclops. It has 2 independent filament paths all the way to the hot zone, but only a single nozzle. So you never retract all the way to the cold zone. If you want to print multi-material (water soluble support material) then you need something like the E3D chimera which is basically 2 independent hot-ends joined. However these can have problems with the hot-end that is not is use oozing. Look for panning dual hotend on thingiverse for a solution to oozing. But the hot-end you got will never work properly. BTW not pushing E3D, just that they have examples of both types of dual hot-ends.
Such a "splitter" design can work properly. It is all about foarming the tip correctly before unloading. Actually Prusa worked a lot of it, as any filament changer (like MMU1 and MMU 2(s)) has the same problem. Even single extruder printers can have such a problem (like the Prusa Mini had with early firmware versions).
Simply it is all about purge before unloading and defining ramming speeds - or in other words: The right slicer. As Prusa experimented with such ways over 3 years now, the slicer of choise is PrusaSlicer. There you can do every settings you need for opimicing the process of changing filament without deformed filament tips.
Thanks for the feedback. I'll be looking at other options in the future.
maybe try the replacement hotend for the geeetech 10m maybe
I was kinda of hopping you for were actually talking about converting it to IDEX 😜
It's been suggested, so I'm considering it. That would be quite the setup!
@@rainerwahnsinn3265 Independent Dual EXtruder
You talked about designing and printing the filament spool holder with carbon fiber Would consider doing a video on printing with carbon fiber?
I wouldn't mind doing that as a short video. I use a lot of different filaments and typically Google search and mix the advice for my fina results. For reference, I think MatterHackers typically has good advice.
@@kerseyfabs Thank you.
Did you undo the separate Z-axis stepper drivers and G34 levelling to enable the second extruder? I don't know of any boards that have more than 5 stepper drivers, and you would need 6 to have both systems running.
Actually it is quite easy to add 2 or more stepper drivers if you use a board wich has exp1 and exp2 and internal SD (or serial TFT with it´s own SD slot). Simply set up CR10-Display (same as Ender 3 and 5) and connect it to EXP1. So EXP2 is free. EXP2 has 7 I/O-Ports, you can configure 6 of them in marlins pin.h to be used for STEP/DIR/!EN of two extra drivers. You can use sockets for Arduino (about $1,50) for using stepper drivers in standalone-mode there or alternativly directly connect the STEP/DIR/!EN pins of a closed loop driver to EXP2.
If you have some free other I/O (like Neopixel output or power control), you might even another another stepper driver. So with common boards like MKS Gen-L, SKR1.3/1.4 etc. you can use 7-8 motors quite easy.
Maybe you even change pin.h completly and redifine the internal sockets for e0, e1, z0, z1 and z3 (if you want 3 z-Axis and real ABL) and add close loop drivers for y, x0 and x1 (for IDEX).
SKR even has an extension board for 3 additional drivers for the SKR 1.3/1.4 for about 10$ - it uses EXP1 and EXP2 (with TMC-controll) or EXP1 (if you use a SKR e3 mini; without TMX-controll) - it works by using a serial connected TFT, so you do not need EXP1/EXP2 for displays. But as I prefer 12864-displays with total control over Marlin, I prefer wiring extra steppers to EXP2.
But there are many boards out there with more than 5 drivers: SKR pro, GRT, Duet with expansion board. But using EXP2 on a standard board is actually the quite cheapest way to expand a board.
For my testing, I did not use dual Z steppers, which still is not really needed. Ole is correct though, you can add additional steppers to one of these boards or you can get higher-end boards such as the SKR Pro which has 6 steppers. I'll be reviewing that board soon.
@@kerseyfabs But If you want to try IDEX, you will need at least 6 stepper drivers. As many people might have changed their printer mainboard already to an SKR 1.3/1.4/1.4Turbo, it would be nice If you use this board in your IDEX video. Adding a secondary printhead and extruder already is not cheap - an extra 50$ for a 6 driver board + 5$ for the 6st tmc instead of maybe 15$ by simply use a closed loop driver to exp2 for second x-axis seems quite a lot.
Of course, for all people still having stock board, but planing both changeing to 32bit, TMC and using IDEX later might use an SKR pro from the start, as later modifications are more simple.
One aditional thought if you need even more stepper drivers: Many people use octoprint anyway. If you also install klipper, you can add multiple boards. So if anyone upgraded the Ender 5 / Ender 5+ by using a SKR e3 mini / 1.3 / 1.4 /1.4 turbo or anything else, your original controler will most likely collect dust somethere. You can add it in parallel to klipper and that way add 4 stepper drivers (and a lot of I/Os, Thermistor for chamber thermistor, mosfet for heater if you enclose yout printer, additional fans etc). For the feeders the A4988 of the original board are o.k.
Mostly a raspberry pi is used for Octoprint. But you can use any PC - actually ThinClients often use not much more power than a Pi - and you sometimes can get them for $10 on ebay. I got some Fujitsu Futro S900 for that price. Add a 16GB mSATA for another $10 and you have a very powerful controller for a 3d printer. Of course you might add a cheap WLAN stick if you do not want to use LAN cables. Debian, Octoprint and Klipper have to be installed manually, but following the instructions step by step, thats no big deal.
With Klipper for example you can define the 4 TMC2209 on an SKR e3 mini to be x, y, z0, z1 and the four A4988 as e0, e1, e3, e4... Of course you have a hard work to understand Klipper enough to config it. I only did one test with one board on an Ender 3 last year, But thats a promising way to make upgrades for a very low price, using obsolete hardware. Even a SKR e3 mini v.1.0 with defect x-driver can be reused - redefine in Klippers config only the other steppers are used.
But the documentation is not easy to read - at least for me, as english is not my native language...
Maybe something to think about if you want to use a mixing nozzle (like the diamond nozzle with 5 inputs). SKR 1.4 with TMC2209 on x, y, z0, z1 and A4988 on e0, original board with 4 soldered A4988 for e1-e4. So nearly no costs for upgrading the board to 9 stepper drivers, only for the 4 extra feeders (a BMG clone about $9 at a sale, a motor about $5)
Hello, I know this video is old, but haven't you found any way to use 2 hot ends?
Honestly, I haven't tried. I haven't had much use for it.
How about going even longer on those hot-end attachment bolts and stacking two hot-ends with spacers between? I guess the stock fan won't fit then, but if you 3d print a shroud with abs, it should do fine ducting air past the heat sinks.
And instead of handling retraction in your tool/filament switching gcode, you'll just move the print head(s) 2cm in the x or y direction...
I'm not concerned with multiple colors, but would love to be able to use dissolving supports for more complex prints.
The problem with dual hotends on the same gantry is oozing. That's one of the reason people are excited about IDEX printing.
@@kerseyfabs I didn't even know that was a thing. Interesting!
@@danielnorris9224 Yeah. You can retract but eventually the molten plastic will find it's way to the tip. Unless you retract out of the hot zone but then you have new issues.
Can this be configured to act as a run out system for continuous print? So spool one on E0 runs out, spool 2 on E1 starts. reload spool 1, and feed to extruder etc. I have prints that will take like 2.3 spools worth, and yeah, i could get a texas size 5kg roll but its sooo much cheaper generally to get 5 spools. I only am curious because I plan on getting the CR30 when it drops and having continuous filament seems fitting for that belt bed.
That's a really clever idea but I haven't seen anyone do that before. It would be relatively easy to do in firmware but I don't think I've seen that setting before.
@@kerseyfabs I've got an old ADIMlab gantry pro doing... well nothing. Did you figure out which hotels you wanted to run with? I'll gladly do the build
Which hotels? Do you mean hotends?
@@kerseyfabs yes. Auto correct hates me (i work for Marriott)
I'm still testing hotends, so I'll let everyone know when I have a working config with readily available parts.
use a counter bore or counter sink forget the name its cone shaped would be the best tool for the job instead of a drill bit
Chimera looks good. I have already pulled the trigger in buying this. I have not recieved it yet I might need some help with this badboy. Also pulled the trigger on the Bondtech x2 direct dual extruders as well. So this is going to be interesting. I know that you said before that you haven't pulled the trigger on this. I think another option for easier mod is the hemera with direct extruder which is build into it. Might be a good option as well.
I really do appreciate that you went with it and see if any of the budget 2 to 1 hotends to get something to workout for a nice price and a possible valuable upgrade.
Thanks for the feedback and the input. I'll be trying a few more options over time as I mix it in with my other videos.
@@kerseyfabs No problem! I had a few other ideas for content. I know you get this alot from your viewers. How about a video marlin vs klipper? Or a klipper installation video? The pros the cons, example: for a 8 bit stock board vs skr 1.4 board. Will it work for the tft 3.5 v3 screen? There isn't alot of documentation to set it up and all I know you can get insane speeds and acceleration on prints. Recently, I installed octoprint on rp 3b+ thanks!
You should have no problems with the Chimera. It is just 2 separate hot ends tied into one with the cooling system being the only joined part. And is fairly easy to level. Now the cyclops would have been a different story or at least was for me with the first version. I had similar problems with clogs and jams and I never did finish one print with it. Maybe the newer + version is better but I have no plans to try it. I bought the parts needed to turn mine into a Chimera and have been using it that way ever since.
Does it work on the pro
Are you using the Ender 5 plus board or aftermarket board?
In this video, it was an aftermarket.
Great video. Been staring at these on ebay and a few other sites for a while and wondered how to setup the second extruder. Was considering doing this to my CR-10, but the direct drive setup from Creality came on sale at Banggood, i got that instead. Already have SKR boards in mhy E3P's but not the one mentioned so i doubt they have support for the second extruder (Mini E3 and E3 DIP). Looking forward to see if you get it sorted though!
Thanks! I have another one now, I just need to get to it.
I'm wondering if I need to tear my Microswiss apart again and check to see if I have burs. You probably need to get some emory cloth, that will create a much more smooth surface than using a drill bit.
Also are you planning to do a Tri-color one where you blend colors?
I haven't seen any manufacturing issues with MS before but sure to let them and I know if you do. I may look at color blending in the future but not any time soon.
Hello , can I do this with my Ender 6?
Well, I haven't unboxed my Ender 6 yet, so I can't really give details. Maybe I'll revisit in the future. In general though, you follow the same steps. Hardware mods and firmware mods.
Hey, did you find a good solution for this mod?
I didn't really work on it any further. I know there was a lot of interest but I haven't had any need for it myself. I may revisit it in the future as I start doing more mods again.
Can you try the Palette 2? I’m interested to see if it works with the 5+
I'd be happy to try it if Mosaic would like to send me one. Feel free to send them a message letting them know you'd like to see me review one!
Isn't the purpose of the mating of the throat to the heatsink to dissipate the minimum of heat creep? so adding a thermal compound is actually allowing more heat to creep to the throat! this is just going to cook the PTFE and filament.
It is probably the thermal compound that is causing the clog by increasing the meltzone
By using thermal compound, I am wicking away more of the heat from the throat into the heatsink where it actually gets dissipated. If the connection between the two is not good, the heat would build up in the throat and not be dissipated. That's the purpose of the heatsink.
@@kerseyfabs but you are also drawing more heat from the block into the throat in the first place
Heat moves from the block into the nozzle and the throat. You need to remove the heat from the throat to reduce the melt zone. A heatsink is designed to increase the surface area of a hot component in order to disapate heat. We then cool the heatsink with a fan. Heat moves from hot to cold, thus the heatsink continues to pull heat.
That is easy compared to what I'm thinking about for dual colour printing .
Trying to see if I can convert my ender 5 plus for IDEX printing .
But waiting for this lost down to be over .
I had someone ask me for that mod. I am considering it.
Great stuff sir !
Thank you sir!
A great project. You did a lot of work to get all of the pieces put together and working. It's too bad that the dual nozzle was the weak point. Will be interesting in seeing a better nozzle solution.
I would like to know how the ExoSlide is working for you? I'm looking at replacing my linear rails on the 5 Plus with one as it seems to present a much simpler way to attach a new direct drive hot end.
I love your videos👍
I am new at this and just ordered a ender 5 plus and i want to upgrade the motherboard and get rid of the stock touchscreen that I've heard is not good (limited) . What board and screen do you recommend that is ready for most (all) future upgrades?
Would you also recommend direct drive extruder or just uppgrade to an all metal dual gear extruder?
Keep the videos coming!
What did you set the E1_Serial_TX and RX pins to for BTT_SKR_V1_4_TURBO?
I didn't change them. They're set to whatever Marlin's default is.
Looking forward to Part 2.
Thanks! The part has been ordered.
Yes, the video was fun. 2 colors with cheap materials from small printers I don't think is ideal for that printer. It is for large multi-colored Roman helmets :-))? PVA is already very technical, I have no experience to make recommendations.
I've had people ask about large format dual extruder printers and there's not really one on the market. This is a possible solution. Soluble supports is also a use case.
what is the program called that you use to show both configurations
Meld: meldmerge.org/
just buy a hot end from the creality CRX line
Do you have a link for your screwdriver kit?
I really like all your in depth videos. have done several of the upgrades that you have shown on both my Ender 5 and Ender 5 Plus.
Thank you! The toolkit I use is the "Kobalt 856840 73-Piece Master Hobbyist Tool Set." Here's a link to the Amazon listing for reference: amzn.to/3mqUDIz
FYI though, the current price, as I post this comment is too high. I paid around $40. You could keep checking back or possibly find it from another vendor. Thanks!
@@kerseyfabs Thanks for the info. I will keep a check on the price.
Here's my diagnosis. I'm sure you've been looking forward to this. I think the problem is inherent in this style of dual extruder because it requires retracting the melted filament past the "Y" joint junction. This is not a smooth transition even for a piece of cold filament and a hot piece could be mis-shapened beyond usability. Give that some thought. BTW, you need a set of numbered drill bits. Many more choices at smaller increments. BRAVO for showing your unsuccessful adventure.
Thanks. I'm looking for some better hotends. I'll report back if I find one.
@@kerseyfabs I wish you luck but my gut tells me you're going to end up with dual extruders.
What I've worked out !!!
If you don't want to lose X size you need to extend the width with bigger aluminium extrusions and the y motor rods , but the problem is having 2 stepper motors on X.
Actually "bigger" also means to change from 2020 to 2040 extrusion, so you can use top side for one belt and down side for the other - and let go back the two belts inside the extrusion... This way two steppers on x are not so much a problem anymore - one on one end, using the upper part of the 2040, the other on the other side, using the bottom part.
@@oleurgast730 Not that easy !!! , The first belt on the 2040 is standard ? , one motor on one end a tensioner on the over , but the top part is not that easy , I think you have to mount the other one upside down on some sort of raiser plate and hope the tensioner doesn't hit the motor.
I think it could be easier to tool changer that idex on the ender 5 ?
So could you do pva structures
Yes you could.
could you post your startup code?
No problem! I should have done that!
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate
G28 ;Home
M420 S1 Z2 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade Height
G90 ;Absolute positioning
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 X15 Y340 Z20 F5000 ;Move to a safe place to purge
T0 ;First tool
G1 E-50 F300 ;Retract to insure clear
T1 ;Second tool
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 E100 F250 ;Prime Filament
G1 E50 F300 ;Retract to good position
T0 ;First tool
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 E100 F250 ;Prime Filament
G1 E95 F1500 ;Retract a bit to clean up
G90 ;Absolute positioning
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 X5.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X5.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X5.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X5.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 E-50 F1500
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
only use a hotend mixer head not these types
That will probably be my next test. I typically don't like them though since you can't change out the nozzles.
Is it compatible with an ender 5 PRO?
You could make these changes on the Ender 5 Pro but you'd need custom firmware.
If a Creality Ender-5 plus and a Wanhao D12 500 made babies we would all be just happy?! 😂😂😂
Search eBay for Upgraded 2 IN 1 Out Hotend 12V/24V Dual Colour Bowden Extruder With Fan Ptfe
Are you thinking one like:
A) www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-Parts-Hot-End-2-in-1-Out-Double-Color-Extruder-12V-24V-with-Fan/202658903001?hash=item2f2f6973d9:g:RcQAAOSw~cFcvCfx
or
B) www.ebay.com/itm/Upgraded-2-In-1-Out-Hotend-12V-24V-Dual-color-Bowden-Extruder-Kit-For-MK8-Titan/273992032676?var=573989635138&hash=item3fcb32a1a4:g:CiIAAOSwhYNdv5Pn
We have designed and manufactured a brand new upgraded extruder. After many 3D printing enthusiasts use it, the reflection effect is very good. Are you interested?
We can give you a set for free, and hope you can make a video about the extruder we designed.
Welcome to contact us.
I'd love to take a look. Please email me at kris@kerseyfabrications.com.
@@kerseyfabs The email has been replied. You can go to my channel to watch this simple 30-second video to see if you are interested.
Well boss, it's official....I have seen ALL of your videos on this platform.
Wow, thanks! Damn. Too bad I don't have awards to give.
Klipper > Marlin any day of the year, though.
I don't really have a preference as long as Marlin has OctoPrint attached.
IDEX Next
I have a plan but not details yet. You'll see it if it comes to fruition.
run in reverse
What?
He's going to save time by babbling about how he's going to save time by not showing the actual work...
This video is over an hour and fifteen minutes long! What did I not cover thoroughly enough for you? Please let me know.