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Add dual extrusion with gradients - Mixing hot end guide
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2020
- Dual extrusion can be very useful and is always visually impressive. It is possible to add it to an existing single extrusion printer. Previously, I fitted such a kit to a Tevo Tornado, converting it to a dual, switching ozzle machine, but that was very involved. The Bigtreetech mixing hot end kit as featured in this video is simple by comparison, although still needs a few extra parts and steps. The initial results here are good and I expect to improve after tuning retraction.
These products were purchased with my own money with the aim of making this guide. All opinions expressed are my own.
Purchase the BTT mixing hot end (as fitted in this video): s.click.aliexp...
Purchase the BTT 2 in, 1 out Ender 3 compatible hot end (shown but not fitted in this video): s.click.aliexp...
Models featured in this video:
Vase: www.thingivers...
Low poly fox: www.thingivers...
Dual colour tree frog: www.thingivers...
Race frog: www.thingivers...
CR-6 style ABL system for Ender 3 (now updated with the parts from this video): www.thingivers...
SKR V1.3/1.4 universal case: www.thingivers...
Filament spool holder for 2020 frame: www.thingivers...
My remixed, longer version: www.thingivers...
Previous video on switching dual extrusion hot ends: • Add dual extrusion to ...
Previous video on CR-6 style Ender 3 ABL system: • CR-6 auto bed levellin...
Previous video on dual extrusion printing: • Dual extrusion guide: ...
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Hi guys, ran out of time to print the final frog but here it is: imgur.com/a/fox5PaH
Using yellow and blue, I made a green, yellow and green frog. Pretty cool!
How do you get the graphics to display on the z height(Arrows)? I have an skr13 and always remember seeing a graphic on one of your videos and just saw it again.
Does using a 2 in 1 hotend effect the quality of print in any away??
Or does it remain the same??
Hi teachingtech, Did you get the 24V one or the 12V one?
Hello please explain how I can do it on ender 3 neo please
This guy is crazy smart. I'm super new to 3d printing, but impressed with how smart people are able to extract every last bit of potential out of it.
I would really like to see dual extrusion with a support material
that and other potential uses of multiple materials is the main thing I want dual extrusion for
This is better suited to one material as each filament is locked into the same hot end temp.
Should have a look at Dr. D-Flo channel, he has a printer with multiple extrusions that can be used for support material. Its a tiny machine, but its pretty amazing.
@@jon9947 D-Flo's printer is an IDEX designed by stephenci using fully separate Z-X gantries for the heads; essentially, something like two Prusa Mini printers conjoined on the Y axis to print on one bed. Thanks for the tip. Fitting a longer print bed would allow it to do other IDEX things like simultaneous clone printing (including mirrored on X axis).
Printer design is found at github.com/stephenci/ZideX
For similar temp range materials you can use these as well for support or multimaterial printing most likely. Chuck has a lot of mixing videos of different materials
Purging wouldn't be as much of an issue for models large enough to purge wall color changes on infill and a slicer with options to do that.
a purge bucket is far more efficient for collor shifts as there is no resistance to the fillament the change happens much faster and cleaner
@@jackass123455 itd be cool if someone could make the purge bucket inside of the model so the extruder doesn't have to travel far
cura should hire you
You can calibrate away. Most of the swich over is actually quite short.
Using a combination of using some of the rest and doing the gradient in the infill. The block can be massivly reduced.
It would be so cool to mix normal PLA with dynamically changing amounts of TPU. So you could have parts with continuously varying stiffnesses.
Awesome man!!
Might work better with PETG and TPU
Ohhhh, I’m interested for sure. The proprietary nozzle is a downer but understandable with a mixing design at this price. The blending is really cool. Like everyone else it made me want an RBG setup!
Bet an adapter to a normal nozzle could be made out of brass
Thanks for the explanation, I didn’t think about all the extra pieces that you need to get on top of the dual extruder.
Not for everyone... I use my printer mainly for "utilitarian" items like brackets, mounts, knobs, and other component parts. For those with a more artistic use, this would be excellent. That purge block does offend the Scottish part of my DNA though! :o)
Thanks for another informative, watchable video.
I agree- that frog and cat look sick, but I'm not gonna waste my filament, additional money on that fancy hotend and purge plans for direct extruder. With technical parts you can just make separate pieces from different colors anyway, since you often need to screw/connect them to each other for the final assembly.
Looking forward to a RGBW mixer.
You need cmyk (and white), rgb is for mixing light, cmy is for pigments.
@@404Anymouse RGBW will get you some color mixing, though it's probably not going to be the colors you're looking for.
@@404Anymouse You knew what I meant didn't ya.
While this is a brilliant way to achieve a decent quality dual extrusion, I still prefer IDEX printer as they remove the need for a purge block. They also open up the ability to have dual flexible filament thanks to the fact that they can be direct drive. Overall great video and really helpful and informal.
Imagine this with non planar printing, OP AF.
Edit: And 2 Mosaic Paletes. 8 colors! Smooth non planar printing! Infinite color combos with RGBW!
I did this years ago with my own y on the Bowden tube. My retracts in colour change were really long. I did not use a purge block, as I consider it wasteful. I mounted a washer horizontally to the side of the frame and move the nozzle over the center purge just enough to clear the nozzle, then wipe over the washer and continue printing. Worked perfectly without issue once I got it calibrated properly. Easier with a core XY, otherwise I probably would have mounted the washer on a servo to save print space.
The two tone frog could use the inner structure to change colour, like the filler could do the gradient job so the outer part will have solid colours, it would require a lot of manual editing I guess unless a slicing program comes up with an easier solution to automate it.
prusaslicer had this feature since 2019, google "wipe into infill"
Based on my experience with an E3D Cyclops you really only want to use mixing hotends when you're actually printing objects with either a mixing mode or a switching mode. Filaments don't particularly like being parked at operating temperatures for long periods of time so if you use these mixing hotends to print in just one colour then you will "cook" the parked filament and actually clog up the standby filament path. If you try to avoid the cooking issue by only having one filament loaded then it extrudes back up the open filament path and clogs it with solid filament instead.
yeah ive come across this issue too, i overcame it by when i want to only use one color I use two rolls of the same filament set to mix at 50%
Might be able to set it to do a small “purge” of the hotend every 10-15mins or so to get around this. Will waste some filament and add time to print but not by too much
Would extruding a small amount (1-2%) of the unwanted color prevent this without affecting the primary colour ?
Eg if you want red print 98% red with 2% blue, and then when switching to blue print 98% blue with 2% red ?
@@darrenmilne1489 Yeah, that should work: ruclips.net/video/f8DL0rsjwdI/видео.html
after 3days of searching i have now found the answer how to set dual extrusion
Micheal is my favorite tech teacher. Also my favorite clasher of RUclips standards, the holy vampire 🥓🥓🥓
Very helpful Thankyou I have just fitted the BTT 2in1 Mixing video and this video saved me hours of searching to find how to set up marlin once again Thankyou.
I'd love to see a dual hot end video for the ender 3
Love it. Thank you.
Can you try installing two hotends side by side for dual extrusion. That would be cool to see/do. You would lose some print area but not much. And if you install two mixing hotends like that side by side you would be able to create some crazy stuff. Four spools and two hotends.
I believe I saw settimgs in marlin for such set up.
You do that and I definitely will become a patron.
Thanks again Michael! 👍👍👍
Actually, it'd be simple not to loose a lot of area. Just install the other hotend on the back side of the existing one
🤯
I want to see a 5 filament mixer: CMYKW filaments to potentially make any colour. Now mix right at the tip and eliminate the purge block. Calibration might be a bit of a rough process though :)
www.reprap.me/extruder/diamond-hotend
Would LOVE to see a triple mixing hotend like this for full RGB or CMY color mixing.
Would this one not do what you're after? amzn.to/3j3pQka
@@DavidRelich You'd need at least 4 colors since there's no white substrate like with ink on paper.
@@dekutree64 True you'd need white, cyan, magenta, and yellow filaments and better if you also add a 5th of black
Now for the stupidest question: what's *really* holding us back from a 5 end mixer that supports rgbwb?
well mainly that subtractive colors systems use the CMY color space. you know, like printers
good news my friend there is already people and companies doing it ruclips.net/video/f8DL0rsjwdI/видео.html
Size I guess? 3 way mixing nozzles have been around for years (and relatively cheap from China, though I haven't tested the quality).
@@rpnct I also think its the waste from using one with the pillar block on the side
@@rpnct That and the fact that mixing extruders jam more if you don't regularly print all colors, since the unused filament just stays in the end being cooked.
2 video's in 3 days?
Thank you!
I like this one hell of a lot better than having two nozzles. I mean it looks like it's a pain in the ass but it also looks like it's less of a pain in the ass than regular dual Extrusion so It's definitely an improvement.
You should actually be able to use 2 different extruders in marlin if you define distinct_e_factors. I use my dual extruder with a E3D Titan and a creality metal extruder.
Thats true!!!
Well spotted, thank you.
@@TeachingTech Does using a 2 in 1 hotend effect the quality of print in any away??
Or does it remain the same??
Hey so you are saying that I can have a direct drive and bowden set up at the same time
Actually it is possible to have different steps per mm ratio for both extruder in Marlin ;) Also it's worth mentioning that there is a significant problem with replacing this nozzle, there are no spares (at least I didn't find any on Aliexpress)
There is a new version of this on which you can change nozzle
@@syedsulaiman8380 whats the new version?
@@Skylionfpv sorry it's not a mixing hotend exactly
I got confused
Spot on video on the subject as usual. Please create a video on the subject of slicing setups for this specific dual extrusion
Good onya mate, you’ve suckered me in again, now where’s me flamin’ credit card, more stuff to buy mrs. no Michael said it works cool so I want one! hmmm lol. Great presentation as usual mate, always a pleasure to learn from you. Quick question if I may, where can I get the Velcro backed stuff that you used to wrap all the wiring together in previous videos? Have searched everywhere and can’t find any. Again, thanks for the hard work and the very insightful videos mate, always first class, thank you
I usually get cable stuff from the hardwre store. Two examples: www.bunnings.com.au/epa-12mm-x-5m-black-spiral-wrap_p4331579 and www.bunnings.com.au/cobra-2m-cord-flexi-mesh_p4430516
Two points - stringing and retraction is much more difficult on this style of printer as the design has to mitigate backflow from filament one throat into filament two throat (and vice versa). The Geeetech a10m, for example, has filter disks which make retraction nearly impossible. There is also a larger volume of molten material in the mixing chamber that makes drooling an issue.
Second point - almost every that runs this style eventually goes to running purge buckets instead. The advantage is quickness and less waste plastic as you don't have to purge on monochromatic layers to maintain a purge tower z-height.
I cant imagine that super wobbly assembly is doing much to help your print quality.
The force from my hand pushing it is many magnitudes larger than what is experiences printing. Having said that I still do plan to look at the remixes from the community and develop it further.
@@TeachingTech Does using a 2 in 1 hotend effect the quality of print in any away??
Or does it remain the same as the stock?
Thank you for making this video you just helped me pick a hot end for my ender 3
Currently waiting for a 3-in-1 mixing hotend I bought nearly two months ago on aliexpress. Thanks for the video, I think that will help a lot with setting it up :)
Did you ever get that 3-in-1 mixing? Can you provide a link to it?
@@WilliamMantly Hi, sorry for the late response. Yes, I got it, but I still need to finish my enclosure (life got a bit in the way) and some other mods, like the hotend quick change mod from properprinting. The Hotend I ordered is a Zonestar M3, which seems to be available in multiple versions. I also have a model for a silicon sock available (still need to buy silicon) and designed a custom holder (again, for that quick change mod).
@@VIsualbasiclivestrea I just bought the M3, ZM3E4 board and color LCD screen from Zonestare and going to try and get them on my ender 3 v2. I am in the process of designing a box to hold the new board and screen. I am going to attach the 2 extra extruders to the back of the x arm and work from there. The only part i haven't figured it is how to mount the M3 hotend, but will when i have it in hand.
@@WilliamMantly If you need a mockup model of the hotend, feel free to use this: a360.co/3iWz2Gv
I'm printing reliably with 3in1out "switching hotend". Had problems with stringing when switching, but after many hours of trying out different ways to pull the filament I got it to look like arrow; no problems since (with the switching procedure).
I like the actuated version you had shown in the beginning.
Seems a bit pricey, at least for me with a CR-10S .... only 4 motor drivers. Bummer
11:05 You can just add extruder in simlify3d. Its on Extruder tab as button "Add Extruder".
Doing so won't give you access to the dual extrusion wizard which is the intended way to setup these prints in S3D.
@@TeachingTech Ohh You are right. I never use this wizard. That is kinda bad for simpyfy3d that they are not doing any bug fixes. Its pretty much dead.
Thank you Michael. I just bought this extruder with a skr pro V1.1 and TMC 2209 drivers. Marlin 2.0 is new to me and VScode too, so your video helps with getting me part way there. I am also interested in running with dissolvable support. I tried a similar hot end to the one you did NOT choose and it gets gummed up eventually and the PTFE funnel section degrades and needs to be replaced after a few weeks. not fun. I am installing on a Cubex Duo printer from 2013 that I gutted.
I hope you look into a diamond hotend after this. The basic version is 3 filament mixing with a more advanced 6 filament mixing also available
I guess it's OK for the price but this is yet another mixing hot end which doesn't actually mix. The printed fox is clearly different colours depending on which face you view it from. Just like the Diamond and all the other "mixing" hot ends, this one "combines" filaments into "stripey toothpaste" but doesn't actually mix them together. So the colour you get will vary around the object and will be biased towards one filament input or the other - it's pretty obvious from the video.
You also need to use firmware retraction to retract both filaments together simultaneously. Otherwise, if you only retract one extruder, all you do is draw filament from the other input rather than the nozzle tip - that's probably why you had all the stringing.
Also, be aware that PLA will hydrolyse (become more and more runny) over time when held at print temperature. This can be problematic when doing 2 colour prints (depending on the part) as you need to purge out all the hydrolysed filament when switching from one colour to another, otherwise you get a big runny blob then nothing until fresh filament comes through. So the amount of purge required will increase proportionally to the time that the "unused" filament has been held at print temperature.
Can you do a video showing the setup in Marlin 2.0 and cura, plus the offsets and such for a dual extruder, dual nozzle setup, that is not magnetic, or use servo's? The type that's solid mounted next to each other all the time. I can't seem to find a decent video for this anywhere, nor even the information for what all needs selected in Marlin. It's crazy.
Michael, With this BTT dual mixing hot end, could you do many one color prints from the same extruder? And then let us know if you can go back to multi color and gradient color prints with a hot end that is s not plugged? My A10M hot end plugged under this scenario and the hot end is a nightmare to clean. Even with filament in the E1 side loaded, the filament on the active E0 side pushes into E1 side and eventually plugs up the works. I had successful dual color prints from my A10M until I needed to do a run of about 100 single color parts. After that the hot end always plugged. I should have put 2 spools of the same color on and alternated between E0 and E1.
I want this to experiment with plastic 'alloys'. Mixing different plastics (ABS and PLA etc) on the fly at a precise ratio could create new structural possibilities???
Pla and abs print at different temperature and settings it is not possible to use them together
With the mixing hot end you cant use it as a normal single extruder. The melted plastic will reflux up into the other filament path rather than out the nozzle.
Not true. I've done lots of single color prints with my Geeetech A10M, including 24h+ ones. Just make sure to have some filament inserted into both inputs.
@@Isaac________ This is the thing... You need to have both filaments inserted... Gosh... Kinda stupid but logic design. :|
@@MartinZeman3D you could just cut off a piece
@@OGRECubes Yeah I know... but... it's just strange and not nice solution :D
@@Zemistr3D It's the simplest possible design, and simple=good. How would you design a mixing extruder that doesn't need a second filament in place for single colour?
Get better sidecutters. Knipex is my go-to on the smaller side-cutters, it is worth the price.. The ones that come with Enders are just about good for cutting the 1.75mm filament. Better side cutters leave better quality, it doesn't squeeze the plastic but cuts it very close to the surface.
Can you show some of your failures. You make everything look so easy. It is not so easy
I know this is from about a year ago, but i'm still interested in it, is the inside of the heatsink lined with PTFE or all metal because it would be nice to print materials other than PLA and PETG, without risking to burn a liner?
edit: your PTFE gets right up to the end of the heatsink, then it goes into metal, idk how hot the heatbreaks get there but it might be safe to run over 250? idk..
Hi. I purchased the same hotend, but can't print with it. It seems like teh filament melt and stack in the metal leading tube above the hotend.
First I purge manually , but after a few seconds i can't do it again. Any ideas?
Would love to see you print PLA with PETG as the support material using this mixing nozzle.
Second time that I have watched this. I just bought a stock ender 3 as my second printer, but I was tempted to buy a dual extruder printer like the a10. Just realized that if you got a 3 filament mixing hotend then you could print all colors using rgb techniques.
RGB doent work for material in the same way as light.
Hey did u try this hotend
While the original board of the Ender3 would not work, this is not totaly true to the skr e3 mini. Most people do not use all IO-ports - for example the probe shown in the video is connected to z_min. So you do not use the probe-connector and the servo-connector - and also the neopixel and the power-controll migth be free. 2 free I/O would be enough to add another stepper driver ( Step and Direction, put !Enable to ground). So some changes in the pin-definitions and you can add a 5th and even a 6th driver to the board - or add close loop drivers, define for x and y and redifine the x and y drivers to become e1 and e2.
If you have a stock board, you have to change anyway due to noise and low flash size. So go directly to an SKR 1.3/1.4/1.4Turbo. But if you already have upgraded to an e3 mini, it would be sad to throw it away yust because you need another driver.
Of course there is an other way, maybe even cheaper, but I did not try them by now: Octoprint+Klipper. Klipper supports multiple boards, so you might use an SKR e3 mini for x y z (and maybe z2, if you added second leadscrew) and the original board for e0, e1
that was very cool. Question: Why would the purge block be so big when the two filaments are so close to the heat block? I would think that you would be able to purge quite quite quickly. Is it a time setting or something in Marlin?
This was a random, safe value I picked to test with. You set the size in the slicer and from here you could reduce and monitor if there was still a clear transition.
With a purge block, the printer will continue printing on the purge block to keep the layers even with the actual model being printed. This will happen even if the former color has completely purged from the hot end.
Has no one investigated using the infill as the purge? It would make sense to attempt to use the internal structure to purge to both keep cost and time down
was hoping to see the inside structure of this hotend. I have a A10M and it has huge tendency to clog and string/ooze. It has a mesh filter inside which seems to be the culprit for clogging, but does aid on the mixing.
I can see a day when 3 or 4 color mixers comes to fruition and thus you could in theory do nearly full color prints
Geeetech A10T is 3 color
I just got this one set up and got a clog right away. What retraction setting do you start off with to avoid clogging?
Mixing different materials for different mechanical properties.
Overheating the lower temperature one might be an issue, but there already exists PC-ABS blends of filament (and those have quite different printing temperatures by them self)... Perhaps keeping a low minimum flow of the lower temp one prevent over cooking the same piece of plastic?
Hi, I would like to suggest to make a video talking about optical endstop and how to install it in a Ender 5. There is nothing on internet about it. Thanks, from Brazil.
Sovol has dual extrusion 3d printer, SV02, unfortunately it is out of stock.:(
Is there a tri-color hotend? so that we can use RGB filament role AND print in any possible color since all colors are combination of those 3
I wish you checked single prints and dual material and so much more. Tuning the purge block and all. And a few more prints and using 3 colors. One of each and one mix
Yeah I imagine the filament output "selection" or mixing being executed all the way down in the block/nozzle, requires a _relatively_ large cavity zone in there. Making retractions quite a headache to dial in when it comes to getting rid of stringing.
is such a huge purge block really needed if the mixing happens in the nozzle? i bet you can lower the cubic purge volume by a factor of 10 or more.. also a slicer option to move purge moves into the infill / inner walls instead would be much better
Would the skr mini E3 v2 work? It has double z axis stepper support so I think one should be able to be used for the second extruder
Asking myself the same Question.
No apparently the double Z axis port is still driven by a single stepper driver so cannot be used independently for a 2nd extruder.
www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/i978xn/dual_extruder_on_bigtreetech_skr_mini_v2/
I like it. Have to consider getting it. Thanks
Seems like you could put a layer height change to start moving the material hotter to prepare for a TPU material change and get a better overmolded fuse between the two materials, no? If so now we're talking.
I used the first hotend type when I first was setting up dual extruders. It tool a lot longer to print,waste a lot of filament,jammed often. I switched to a chimera hotend and haven't looked back.
I'm interested in dual extrusion because I want to print supports with a material that could be washed away in a bath after the print for easy support cleanup. Have you done this before? Do you think this setup would work for that? Also thanks for your videos! Great and helpful as always.
I'd like to use dual extrusion for dissolving support material. I don't recall you explaining how you got the hot ends to be exactly the same height without even a faction of a mm difference?
I’m new to 3D printing but I’d love to add a dual extruder to my CR-10S so that I can have dissolvable support filament!
nice review , i am thinking about fitting this to a tronxy x5sa-2e , but would also like to upgrade the firmware to add the mixing feature , what are your thoughts on this ? also not a lot of luck finding config on github for the 2e version of this printer
I just thought of a way to open the nozzle of the more expensive one:
Take measurements of the pin holes and spacing. Afterward, print a holder, with thick walls, for rods that fit in the pin holes (machine screws would probably work I'd think). Then, insert the rods through the holes (or use nuts on the other side), position the rods in the pin holes, and turn the tool. You could use a block of wood instead of printing. Doing so could be much faster too.
Доброго.Вот только ни кто не скажет в какую сторону крутить и есть ли что то герметизируя резьбу(клей-герметик).Удачи!..."" Kind.That's just no one will say which way to turn and whether there is something sealing the thread (glue-sealant). ""
I've now put this hotend on my A20M. I have a mounting bracket but having a hard time getting a part cooling piece. I'm not good with cad.
You showed an older SKR mini e3 board in this video which only has 4 drivers, The 2.0 model has 5 stepper motor drivers.
Is it suitable for a setup like this?
I am not sure but I think the 2 z are wired in parallel and u cnat use them separately I am not sure thoug
Nope, it has a single driver for both the Z axes (i have one of the E3 V2's)
Seeing your video I was wondering if you could swich not only between two different materials but also between two different temperatures?
Reason: I'm considering to print two different materials (Light Weight PLA and 'normal' PLA) within a RC wing design at the same time. But to do so you need to run it at two different temperatures (normal PLA is running at 200 -210 C and LW PLA at 230-250 C). eventually it will lead two different material properties at different positions within the design. Any suggestions?
this would be awesome with triple extruder so that we can do every color in the rainbow. The only missing will be white and black but at this point lots of color is enough
Thank you, love your videos. good project ideas to try out and i really would like to see more videos i this topic area.
Thanks mate, I would like to see dual extrusion with dual materials, like PVA and Pla or PETG using a Chimera.
I have some PVA ready. I would likely do it on the other dual extrusion machine. Would also like to try TPU with PLA, something like a rigid item with soft hand grip.
@@TeachingTech what other dual extrusion machine are you referring to?
Does using a 2 in 1 hotend effect the quality of print in any away??
Or does it remain the same as stock??
I think that if you use the BL-Touch you can also use the slot for the Z-Stop - since you no longer need it. Am I right about that?
gracias voy a comprar esa boquilla ya tengo la otra la amas barata pero me gusto la mas carita la que si puede meter los 2 colores a la vez 😁
I wouldn't mind seeing a quad extrusion system with red, green, blue, and white filament all mixing around in that hotend. you could print any color you could ever want off just 4 spools
I'm looking at a NF THC-01 hotend that's a 3 to1 system which promises no filament blocking in it to bring my Ender 3 pro to 5 hotend feeds. I'm gathering it's similar to yours in design interior wise and isn't much bigger than the factory one was vertically as it is hexagon shaped to allow 3 filament tubes access. I am hoping for a true RGB ability from it for colors and will use the other dual hotend (Cyclops) I have beside it for white and the filler/support tube which will have infinite brand's Aquasys 120 water-soluble 1.75 mm filament. I think this will cut my costs down drastically as right now I'm swapping between 18 1 kg spools of st-pla every time I need a color change. I then can make a filament profile for just about any color at any time and only need to add one more line for the temp like a side by side dual system . I will let you know how it goes and wish me luck
i did like in the video, but now i have problem with the second motor. if i click load it goes to the wrong side. (side of unload) any idea why?
Try this: teachingtechyt.github.io/troubleshooting.html#direction
Hey guys, is there any way we can get the nozzle? 🤔
Thank you.
Excelente video, looking forward to add it to my printer but I'd like to find an extra nozzle just in case.
There is a new version with nozzle change
@@syedsulaiman8380 ohhhh ok thanks 🙏💪
whilst this is awesome, i would have much preferred to have sen you used the Mellow TC-03, basically the second one you ended up using but more refined, a normal nozzle, and having taking some inspo from the mosquito for less stringing and heatcreep etc.
Where can I buy one
Does this mean if they created a triple extruder, we could use cyan, magenta, and yellow filaments to get full color prints in the future?
As the nozzle is proprietary and non-replaceable one have to replace the whole heatblock assembly to switch to a new nozzle. Nozzles do degrade and need replacement every now and then. So that's a big "Nope". Huge dealbreaker.
Let's hope they end up selling just the nozzle, with a tool to remove it and in different sized orifices.
You could try an E3D Cyclops instead. A standard nozzle may or may not make mixing less consistent and require longer purges.
At least make it hardened steel.
I have been setting up this exact extruder over the span of the past 2.5 weeks. I got it working on my cr-10 V2 okay. The only problem that i have is that one of the filament lines clogges inside the hotend and therefor making me unable to print dual color very well. Could you please share the retraction settings you are using when switching filaments? I think it could help me out a lot. Thanks :)
I'm using the default S3D tool change script: pastebin.com/vdeUU43V
Substitute in your retraction speed and length.
Hey looks like you are using this hotend from a long time
Does using a 2 in 1 hotend effect the quality of print in any away??
Or does it remain the same as stock??
@@syedsulaiman8380 printed a little with it. uninstalled it pretty quickly again. when i printed with one color it was just a little worse than normal, but with both colors it was pretty bad, especially surface finish. But look at Michaels prints, those are a lot better than what i got. In the end i realized that dual color doesn't make sense for me and dual material only really works with IDEX.
@@theogehling but why did you get bad surface quality with one colour any reason? Did you ever try to fix it?
@@syedsulaiman8380 i guess it was because there is more resistance for retract and normal extrusion moves. It was in now way significant but enough to switch back to single color printing when 1/100 prints require dual color. Never tried to fix it since i pretty much did like 10 prints before switching back to single color.
You're a genius , thnx for tutorial .... You know if can i do that on a Elegoo Neptune 3 ??
Can you review the BIGTREETECH 3 In 1 Out Hotend Bowden Extruder? More importantly show how to set it up.
I def want this on my ender 3 now -_-
How does it do single filaments? From what I understand both filaments need to be present to prevent the plastic from going into the other nozzle, but if both are constantly in the hotend, wouldn't that degrade the unused filament? If it does, how often you need to purge the unused filament if your only going to be printing with a single filament?
Another awesome video!
Would you be able to get your hands on a Tenlog dual extrusion printer with 2 heads?
THIS!!!!! 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
I have been using a Hictop and a Tenlog for a few months. These are definitely worth a look.
hay teaching tech quick question....what if I want to do dual material on this nozzle? say ABS and HIPS...would this work? How would I go by doing this? maybe a purge block?
Great work. Thank you
Can just insert 2 filaments of the same color and then when a roll runs out automatically switches to the other.
Maybe with some custom work in Octoprint. As far as I know it's not possible in Marlin.
@@TeachingTech Can probably make it a hardware switch that is triggered by filament run-out sensor!
Can you do diamond hotend please i dont know if it is good and find almost no info about it
Yes please!
I like dual extrusion but I don’t like the purge block waste too much material
Can you do a video on the Cr -10s Pro V2 on how to pause the Z axis so you could do a filament change? thanks
I hope you do a piece on using purge buckets instead of a purge block. I've seen some buckets for the ender 3 on thingiverse, so it's definitely a thing. Surely it just needs some gcode each filament change to move over to the bucket and extrude the required filament to purge. Those blocks seem hugely wasteful .
So I "upgraded" to this type of extruder. Now as the hotend sits idle while switching over to the other color, a nice blob of filament dribbles out. This causes the print to shift when the nozzle hits it. Any gcode ideas as to how to eliminate such? :)
Does anyone else has a problem with the Geetech A10M underextruding? I can't figure out how to fix it, I've changed nozzles, completely disassembled the hotend and cleaned it at 230° as well as revised that the extruders are properly working. It seems to me that the system that prevents backflow is clogged with some other kind of particles