In each of my videos, I try to include links to the exact parts I used for my projects. This is for two reasons: 1) I want to make it easy for you to find the parts if you choose to do the project. 2) If I link you to the EXACT part I used then I can almost promise you'll have similar results. I always try to avoid linking to "similar" parts because I have not tested them personally. With that being said, I have noticed that sometimes Amazon or their resellers will swap the part in the link for a similar part. Unfortunately, this is completely out of my control and I don't find out about it until someone complains or I just happen to notice. I always try to post the specs of the item in the description or talk about it in the video. Always verify what you're ordering! Check the specs and make sure the product is still correct. I apologize for any inconveniences but it really is out of my control.
Trust me when I say I have watched many of your videos and I love them they are very informative. The only problem is that I just got the ender 5 plus and most of the things that you complained about, creality has fixed most of the problems (like the power supply the printer came with a meanwell). It took a little while to get the profile but its in cura I'm going to test it out.
Thanks for the links to the fans and connectors for the Hero Me parts. One thing missing that I was hoping for is a link to a screw kit for the parts but I'm on the hunt now. Just thought I'd point it out as others may also benefit in the future.
Do you loose z height when installing the antibacklash nuts that way? I just installed mine and looks like it looses 10mm about. Why not install them in the orientation that the original brass nuts were? I don't think the orientation of the nut would matter right?
@@blitz355 I realize this is a long time after the fact, but I just installed the recommended plastic lead screw nuts with the anti-backlash springs. I tried the orientation indicated here, but found the springs have to support the entire weight of the bed, which makes actually worse than stock. Flipping the nuts over however leads to the lead screw not being long enough. I had to clamp the drive shaft of the stepper motors much higher than stock so there was enough lead screw for the smaller end of the nut to stay engaged when starting a print. Neglect to do this, and you'll be hunting for a spring and a little black nut.
3:50 - Upgrade #1, Bowden Tube 6:26 - Upgrade #2, Nozzle 9:28 - Installing Upgrades #1 & #2 11:16 - Before/After Test Prints 12:08 - Upgrade #3, All Metal Extruder 14:46 - Before/After Test Prints 15:52 - Upgrade #4, Lead Screw Nut 20:43- Before/After Test Prints 22:16 - Upgrade #5, Part Cooler 28:10 - Before/After Test Prints 30:51 - Review
Thank you for the first part of this video. There are so many Facebook groups and Reddit threads of people asking to solve a problem and they ended up doing 5+ upgrades at the same time and then have no clue where to start.
20:19 I myself use the Printer's X axis Gantry for setting the Z axis heights on both sides. Check first at the at the Lead Screw locations, then check the outer areas, in case the Z axis/bed mount bar might be bent as you move out further near the slides & end, or the main frame is tweaked or the mounting locations of each Z axis units are not 100 Percent identical. That way it is parallel to the gantry with the extruder.
That's a great idea and technically more accurate than my way. Let's just hope my frame is square! To the point, luckily I still have to manually level the bed which should square anything else up.
@@kerseyfabs Ya, after i did the Z axis off the Gantry, I then did the initial manual bed adjustment off the Gantry also, before firing it up for the first time & using the software & paper. Just to try to have everything close & hoping for a easy go at it.
Having an archived version of the hero me 3 is a life saver. I had looked at newer versions but hate how the hot end does not mount directly to the plate anymore and has a huge spacer there instead.
I did not only replace the plastic by a metal extruder but on a Bond-Tech BMG extruder which is way better than the regular metal extruder by using a dual drive.
Hey! You've been an amazing help with the 5 Plus so far, there just doesn't seem to be much material out there on it specifically. In this video you mention adjusting the e-steps and calibrating the extruder, but I can't find anywhere that has information on how to do that with the firmware on the 5+. Is there anywhere you have by chance made a video or have information on how to do that with the touch screen firmware? Everything I find is for the 3 or 5 with completely different settings options than I have.
Thank you! The trick with the E5+ is that it has to be done via hooking up the USB cable to your computer since the display doesn't have the setting. Then you can set the values via g-code commands. I plan to do a series of short tutorials. This one is going to be at the top of the list.
@@kerseyfabs that would be beyond helpful. I seem to have some fairly nasty extrusion issues, and I'm sure a lot of it has to do with the flow rate and retraction levels, but all of that seems tied into calibrating the extruder. Learning all of this is an absolute blast, but the info that exists for the 5+ is EXTREMELY limited at this point. A tutorial on how to connect and update all that would be extremely helpful! Hitting on subscribe now!
@@caseyfrederick9887 Totally agree. Great video first of all. Taping into upgrading the firmware would help especially doing the upgrade you suggested. Thank you
Another note. I own a Bondtech BMG and thought I'd replace the plastic extruder with that. No go, the body of the BMG covers one of the screws that attaches the extruder/filament out bracket so it won't mount. Even if it did the in hole of the BMG doesn't at all match the out hole on the filament sensor. a custom mounting plate would be needed.
I know this is old, but that plastic extruder arm is and always will be a "must change". It breaks in the rear at the pivot point causing massive underextrusion. Some break right away, some after quite a while. But it's a printable fix that takes < 1hr, or as you mentioned, you can buy a metal one cheap. It will save a ton of headache and confusion since you can't actually see that it's broken without removing it.
I gotta thank you again for all the stuff you share with the community! Ive gotten some great info tha helped from you and all that you do in the groups and chats as well! cheers to you!
The ultimate upgrade for the Ender 5 plus is a tie between the silent main board and direct drive extruder. Nice vid, but I am surprised you missed both of these.
Great video Kris, I've done a few of these upgrades now on my printer. One thing I would recommend as a 6th upgrade is lowering the front crossbar. That drove me bonkers for months until I sorted it out. I can finally see the print getting done. I've found it really helpful for just monitoring the first couple of layers.
Pt. 4 The new spring/knob configuration may not result in any significant improvement now, but I would assume that the risk of a failed print later on, due to a shift will be less? Pt. 5 How much weight would you estimate that the new cooling configuration add? My main concern here would be that the added mass could cause some additional wiggle when the gantry (?) including the extruder assembly, moves back and forth. Have you tried configuring "Linear Advance" on the Ender 5 Plus? Teaching Tech has a video showing quite and improvement on corners and edges. Also, you seem focus mainly on stringing, but I couldn't help notice that the layering on the final tubby came out a lot smoother than the initial print. One thing I miss is an overview of the estimated cost of each upgrade and if you thing the upgrade is worth it. Maybe you could at it at the end of the 2nd (last?) video? Thank you for putting out this video. Looking forward to the next one :)
Pt. 4 - That's correct. Pt. 5 - I have you covered! Check out my video here: ruclips.net/video/nGxC0QkL4Mc/видео.html I included the timecode to the graph in case you didn't want to watch the entire thing. I can tell you from my experience that I haven't noticed any additional print artifacts. I have conservative jerk and acceleration settings.
Upgrading everything you suggested except the part cooler. Fingers crossed this gets me the accuracy I am looking for on this new 5 plus! So far between your videos and Teaching Tech my quality has improved drastically. Thanks!
You're a huge help Kris, I'm running BTT SKR 3 with TFT35 on my ender 5 plus through your videos, just started from 0 about a year ago. What are your thoughts on cooling in 2023 for this printer?
@@kerseyfabs Hah, just watched your new video. I have exoslides as well, so might be going that route. From one engineer to another, can't thank you enough.
Thanks very much for this video I was having trouble finding the correct cooler head with the two radials this made it alot easier :) keep up the great work!
Thanks for sharing these and I CANNOT WAIT to try the replacement POM Anti-backlash Nut upgrade you showed! My Ender-5 Plus was/is making horrible squeaking noises when moving the Z-axis bed up/down in certain places. White lithium grease has helped some, but I am looking for something better, so thanks!
The Ender 5 Plus can be tuned and upgraded to be a very precise machine thanks to it's frame. Out of the box, it's a good printer but it's not as good as it can be. Also, quality and precision is very relative to expectations, so I'm careful not to over-promise here.
Thanks for the video but on the leadscrews did you try the POM nuts that were not anti Backlash? Reason I ask is on a Z axis since the weight already loads the nut there is no need for antibacklash on a Z axis. In fact the added drag of the spring could cause inconsistency and have my hysteresis (lost motion) between each screw. Your thoughts on this?
Hey Marc! I do have the non-anti-backlash nuts and they do work of course. The only reason I added the anti-backlash is because I thought it would help with rigidity and reduce some potential issues with z-hop. I think the motors have plenty of torque due to the shallow angle of the screws to resist and drag created. If I had more time, I would love to test accuracy of both solutions using a gauge.
Tryed this upgrade and one side of the bed keeps dropping just a little. Micron 14 on one side and it drops to 15.5 on the other I am not sure if it is the nuts or the cuppler as it just slips a little and you can watch the moter turn and it stops at the 15.5 mark. Any ideas or sujestions on this?
my plastic extruder broke a few days ago. I got horrible filament off amazon that broke and got stuck in my tube causing the motor to continue spinning and adding force pushing the tube to pull it until it cracked from what i can tell since i wasnt home. i upgraded mine for 20$ or so for a metal one. Highly recommend it because of the amount of damage it can do if it does end up cracking. Not something i thought would ever be an issue until it happened.
I have to say that this RUclips channel help me being completely lost, to “holy crap I can’t believe I printed that”! I honestly didn’t think this ENDER 3 Plus could print like this. It’s completely unreal how amazing this printer is.
Great video. Thanks for all the information. Doing the before and after is something that I always think about after. Thanks for taking the time to do this. You're doing great things.
awesome! =D i think that that printer should have a direct drive buying option because even if one uses a high quality bowden tube, it is still waaaay too long and requires quite a bit of tuning.
Every time i have to change filament during a bring (usually larger ones that take 1.3-1.8 kg) i always get layer shift. the print always seems to shift back towards the rear of the machine, and I've taken extra steps to avoid touching the print and the bed because i did not that the print bed does move very easily. I added more clips and ran tape along the edges to better secure it. I access filament and change it from the side and even moved the spool holder to hang off to the side to afford me more room to work. I have made sure the X and Y were properly homed, i re ran my wiring thinking maybe something got in the way and tricked the hotend into thinking it had homed when it really had not. The prints are 100% adhered to the bed, and the bed itself is no longer moving, so i have removed those as potential causes. I ensured that nothing was hitting the end stops that shouldn't be, and i am still seeing this albeit less severe. any thoughts on this? I am not opposed to swapping out anything, and am more than capable to do any upgrade, wiring, etc that needs be done, i just can't find the source of this shift to be able to apply a solution to it. The only thing i can think is that these larger prints (protoman helmet from thingiverse at 120% for example) might be over running the stock boards capacity? or maybe a stepper voltage is off?
That's really strange. The most common cause of this would be bumping the X/Y gantry or the gantry slightly moving due to pushing and pulling filament out. On the stock firmware, the run-out process is controlled by the display. This means if you're not happy with its operation, you could swap the display for a 12864 display (Marlin text) and then rebuild the firmware to let Marlin handle filament run-out which _may_ be more reliable.
One of my stock fans has had a bit of bearing damage after a pretty gnarly failed print that backed up into the fan housing and trapped the blades - I'm going to need to get it replaced and decided I may as well go through this upgrade while im at it. Your instructions are great, my only question is, what size/type screws are you using with these fan mounting parts and did you get them on amazon as well?
Sorry to hear about the damage. Almost all 3D printer screws are metric screws. These usually range from m3 to m5 and you'll need various lengths. Something like this set is a great start but I can't promise it will have everything: amzn.to/3kZLfLD For mounting the fans and hotend, I think all the screws are m3.
@@kerseyfabs Sweet! thanks. the stock fan was missing a blade, and the vibration would make it impossible to continue working so I took it apart and super glued the missing blade back in place just so i could get the balance back and functionality back long enough to print the mounts in your suggested upgrade, which i intended to do anyways - but desperation has made it necessary. I suppose I'll switch to an all metal hotend while im at it and get it all over with at once. Love your channel, Thanks for the help!
At the end of this video, you mention that you're going to do a video on upgrading the electronics. I've nearly finished upgrading my E5P with a BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209s. It's very non-trivial. For one thing, it's impossible to keep the existing DWIN screen with the current (2.0.4.4) Marlin release. I've switched to a BTT TFT35-3.0. As time goes by, I'm learning to appreciate its ugly 12864 mode more than it's slick touch-screen mode. If you like, we can exchange notes on the process.
Thanks Don for the offer. You're absolutely right about it being non-trivial and about the display swap being a must. Not only from a functional perspective do you need to change out the display but you also gain so much control from the traditional LCD. Feel free to drop me an e-mail or message me on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter with your details. My contact info is in the description. Thanks!
How did you compile the Marlin firmware? I just bought the same setup for my E5P, but am having serious trouble finding configuration.h files for the Plus. The other Enders are easy to find, but the Plus seems conspicuously absent from the 'examples' file. Any insight you could provide would be *greatly* appreciated!
@@jetthreat5000 - I'd be happy to share my notes and config files. I'm not sure how best to do it. I'm sure my config files aren't perfect, but they're close enough that I'm printing with them.
Great video! Thanks again for showcasing my Hero Me cooling system. I'm sorry you had the issue with the lightweight 5015 ducts. When I completed them I had not fully tested the dual setup with the other options (BLTouch and EZABL mounts) before I had to take a break for a few months. There's a couple great remixes that resolve the spacing issue for the BLTouch mount when used with the lightweight ducts. I can't take credit (or blame) for your choice of the 40mm fan shield as that is not my design. ;) There are now some brands of 5015 fans where the width of the exhaust port has changed. I am currently testing with TH3DStudios.com a revision of the Gen 3 cooling ducts to allow for these slightly larger 5015 fans. I hope to have them posted in the next week or so.
Thanks for stopping by again MediaDog. I'm still quite happy with the solution. Switching back to the joined fans was no big deal. It just took a little extra time.
I was sold on your design thanks to his videos and that is hat I will be running with now. Any chance gen 3 V6 parts will be on the way soon?(or even dream, Mosquito).
@@kerseyfabs Here is the BLTouch mount remix for the Hero Me to work with the light weight 5015 parts you wanted to use in the first place in your video: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3884550
I maybe miss it or maybe I'm wrong but did you heat the hot end while changing the nozzle? I changed the nozzle on one of my printers without heating the end and It works just as good as always, but I have seen guides and videos where they mention that the hot end need to get heated to remove and replace the nozzle, did they heat it in order to soften any material that is still on the end and make it easy to break it loose or is because of the thermal expansion of the heather block that it will make tighter the seal around the new nozzle?
You heat the nozzle to remove it to loosen any stuck plastic. You heat the nozzle to insert the new one to account for thermal expansion. It's heated the whole time though.
Kris, thank you for your great vids. I have the ender 5 plus, and have completed a couple of the top 5 upgrades. All worked well before and after upgrade! An issue has just appeared. I am trying to print a flat bottom print approx 300mm x 300mm. The first 4 were fine no adhesion issues with no skirt or brim. The last three attempts have resulted in warping, so I added a brim to see if that helped. This is where the issue really became apparent. The brim prints but has poor adhesion. I have tried levelling the bed 3 times and it seems fine, and have adjusted the amount of resistance to the test paper from tight to able to just slide between the tip and bed. Each time much the same happens, back right side has rough to touch surface and after about 6 rounds of the brim starts to lift and is quite hard and is twisted off the bed on the right angle of the brim. Tried items from 195 to 205 and 55 to 65. Do you have any suggestions, you assistance would be greatly appreciated. I am sure its a simple enough thing I'm missing. Latest Cura for slicing.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad they're working for you. There's a couple of things. 1) Make sure you're using the auto bed leveling on a piece that big. It will need an accurate mesh. 2) If you're printing on the glass side of the build plate, wash with dish detergent and hot water. Dry with paper towels. Don't touch with your fingers. If you're printing on the textured side, I think cleaning with IPA will be your best bet. 3) Curling corners usually means too close, so I'd back off a bit. I hope this helps.
@@kerseyfabs Thanks Kris. I will use the auto bed levelling as suggested, I have been using the smooth side of the build plate, it seems to offer better adhesion and have been washing as per your suggestion. Thanks again, I look forward to a more successful next print. Stay Safe. Bill
2 year old video, but it still helps. I just recently purchased this printer and assembled it today. Tested out a pre-file of a rabbit with hardly any issues. Some small string between the eyes and a little roughness. I did an extra orde for the Tubing, nozzle and the Extruder and swapped out the stock so far and tested. 2nd print is a fireplace with small details and have no stings, but still have a little roughness. Should I move forward and do steps 4 and 5? Would that make the difference for the roughness? Also thank you for the education, tutorial and all that for this printer. This made my decision to buy. Thank you 👍
Hero Me Gen 5 Master Suite is on Thingverse here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460970 Don.t even waste your time with 3 anymore this new one is easy mode for all kinds of parts and almost anything you need Creality printer wise.
I've ordered the PALM anti-backlash nuts, but I'm thinking about it and it seems like it would be better for these nuts to work WITH gravity and push the bed down. Unfortunately, there isn't room on the lead screws above the bed. Have you ever seen or heard of anti- backlash nuts that can pull rather than push?
So layout the principals and steps for the upgrade process then completely disregard them ? Is tubing diameter the problem? What is the test and how do you determine the problem is fixed? Because the diameter is now smaller?
I'm sorry. Did I fall short in one of my descriptions? The inner diameter of the tubing is the problem. With too much extra space in there, the retraction is loose an can be sloppy. This can result in stringing and other artifacts. You can test to see how this affects your prints by running example prints, particularly stringing test or tests that results in "zits" and seeing if they've improved. If you don't have such issues, there is probably no reason to upgrade the tubing. Although, it can also sometimes allow for shorter retractions which are quicker.
I've heard some issues with the cheap dual gear that's available and haven't tested it myself yet. I went with the extruder that works well for me. I'm sure there are some higher-end solutions though that would be better.
Not sure if it applies to 3D printers with twin screws... but in automation applications on production lines where twin+ screws are used, having one with slight play is pretty normal. It helps prevent wear on either screw by preventing excessive force/friction if there's minor misalignment. As I say... this is in regards to significantly larger/longer screws 🤷♂️
If I remember correctly, when I published this top 5, I didn't have a favorite silent board yet. If I chose one now, it would probably be the E3 Turbo.
Kris, I have been looking for POM anti-backlash nuts for this machine but have found two listings on Amazon UK for the Ender 5 + one has 2mm pitch and 4mm lead and 2 starts and the other 2mm pitch and 8mm lead and 4 starts Do you know which is the correct or most suitable one?
I would love you know more about the eateps . Also it’s a shame that the bed cools down when the sensor detects the filament running out. I also appreciate your comments about how people should test their printers first before modifying them many people on Facebook groups modify their end or three’s as soon as they get them out of the box before even testing them first.
Pasted from another reply: "Thank you! The trick with the E5+ is that [e-steps have] to be done via hooking up the USB cable to your computer since the display doesn't have the setting. Then you can set the values via g-code commands. I plan to do a series of short tutorials. This one is going to be at the top of the list."
You seem to be the RUclips ender 5 plus pro. I got one about 6 months ago and didn’t take to long to get the z home and start printing. I’ve had 80% success rate with just the glass bed no hair spray or glue stix. I’ve used 7kg + off filament and about a week ago everything stopped sticking I’ve used hairspray for a week now and it no longer holds a print, they start good the lettering on the bottom of my benchys are crisp and clear. Has the glass already worn out? is there a aftermarket flexible mag bed that will fit the large print area?
Have you tried to simply take the bed and clean it with dish soap and hot water on the smooth side and try that? That's what I used. I also love Vision Miner Nano Polymer Adhesive. If you're looking for a flex sheet, I think TH3D sells a complete kit.
I know this video came out a while ago now. I ended up upgrading my extruder and tube right as I was assembling the unit. The extruder that was sent to me looks identical to the one you are using and the link that I followed but the tube coupler is not threaded you push the tube holder into the extruder then push the tube into the extruder like normal but without the brass bit. Have you ever had experience with that type of extruder. My next upgrade is cooling Any project that I’ve been doing looks better when facing the right side towards the fan
Your videos helped me very much with my ender 5 plus and all the upgrades,very informative, excellent explanations and everything, thank you very much Kersey!!!
Silly question. This is my first time upgrading the cooling component and wanted to know where you get the screws for the one-piece BLTouch_adj_mount_dual_fan part.
I'd buy screw assortments in the beginning that should have what you need for a number of projects. Something like this: amzn.to/3NjZxo1 Unless you know exactly what you need.
This is a great vid. My E5 plus prints like a champ out of the box I am really impressed with how good the quality is over my previous printer. (FLSun Q5) So far I've only done Capricorn tube and 0.6m nozzle, so 15 bucks worth of upgrades - adjusted retract to 30mm/s from 25. That's it! Took a few prints over to my dad earlier and he was like: wow. Next job is cooling and quiet board for sure (i want to make it quieter) so just downloaded the minefield that is the Hero Me zip file.
I just went with this upgrade for cooling. I decided on the gen 3 because i didnt want to move my CR touch. My problem i am having is now my nozzle temp will get to 201 Celsius and then stall out. I can shut the cooling fan off and it will reach the proper temp. But the ender 5 plus defaults to cooling fan on while heating up.
where can I find that cooler mount for the dual fans that fits with the BL touch on the ender 5 plus? I like that setup and bought all the parts / fans etc to replicate this, but I can't find the files for that mount anywhere. the bantamount site seems like it's not really kept up with anymore?
Thank you again for this wonderful video. Question with the firmware. I just purchased the 1.4 turbo, TFT35 V3.0 screen and i just installed a dual gear extruder and almost everything is stock. can i still use your BIN firmware to flash and install the new marlin? i dont have any knowledge on doing all that stuff. also, do you have a file for that screen cover that you use for the new screen?? thank you so much.
Three years later, and the 300x300x300 K1 Max now as an option .... would you recommend an upgraded Ender 5 Plus, ignoring the slightly larger build plate traded off against the K1 Max on-board features ???
Hi Kris, I have an old cocoon create i3 touch printer and hopefully move to sla printing soon. I have followed your videos for a long time and think that you have an ability to cover everthing thoroughly and methodically. Keep up the top grade reviews and how to videos, they are a great help here in Brisbane ,Queensland ,Australia. Very very good work. John Hennessy.
Great videos, Good Information well explained and much appreciated. After watching all your videos I ended up on deciding to add an ender 5 plus to my collection. And I was able to make an informed decision on what to order for upgrades before the unit even shipped. And as a bonus it shipped with a meanwell powersupply. Something I wouldn't have even known to look for if not for your videos. Thanks again and keep up the great work.
Yes. I'm going to start with the easiest board to upgrade (E3) with a TFT35. I'll release my configuration and compiled firmware. If there's demand for other boards, I can do others.
Great Video. I just got my own Ender 5 Plus and had been doing some of the same upgrades, but had a question and was wondering if you had the same experience or not before and/or after you changed the lead screw buts. When the bed would go down, it would make this squeaking sound. Did you first encounter this before upgrading the nuts, and if so, did changing them help or not?
I hope you have a terrific experience with your printer! Don't just add them. You need to make sure the printer works well out of the box first. You want to be sure where potential problems come from. Take your time to understand what the upgrades are doing. Find some fun test prints.
I don't know at this point if they make a huge quality difference but it solves the squeaking problem a lot of people have and the motion of the Z screws is just smoother in general.
My rough estimate is about $70. It's variable though depending on which components you may already have around. For example, the fans a link to come in a pack of five but you don't need all five for this project. Also the nozzles vary in price depending on which one you choose.
Could you do a video on the cable management for the ender 5 plus? There are not any good tutorials on RUclips for this using drag chains like I want to use
That would take new firmware. I haven't heard of them releasing any new versions. They told me they were planning to release the source though. From there we may be able to fix it.
Kris, I remember once watching a video where the chap had bought some quality Bowden tubing that had the 2mm ID but I can't remember where I saw this or the name of the Bowden tubing product. Do you know the name of this product?
Hi Kris! Quick question how you know which fan to get? 24 vs 12V? Dual ball bearings or hydraulic bearing (this last part is probably a preference) thank you!
Hey Kersey Fab Thanks for the intro and review and these Top 5 mod on the Ender 5 Plus - Just got mine (my first 3D printer) and haven't unboxed it yet due to fall break in Denmark, I've desided to order the 4 first of you upgrades and get them installed before assembly of the printer, just a questing why a nozzle with .8 mm instead of the .4 mm seens like a big hole compered to the standart one. Maybe I didn't pay attension in your Video - but whats to main reason for that? - thx again for some good videos - are looking forward to see more as I dig into this new 3D printer world
I picked up one yesterday. Also my first printer. Took a few hours to get it running nice but spent the whole day printing today with no probs. I'm really happy with the purchase so far.
Thanks Peter for the question. A larger nozzle diameter just extrudes more filament per pass. This means faster print times. It can also mean stronger prints in many situations. Now this also means slightly less accuracy on fine details and corners but that's going to depend on your print. You can also have some issues with retraction and temperatures that you will need to tune. From a practical perspective, I print with a 0.4mm nozzle 95% of the time and only pull out the 0.8 for really large prints. If you're new to 3D printing, having a variety of nozzle sizes is nice to learn with. Inexpensive brass nozzles is fine for this purpose.
@@kerseyfabs awesome info. Cheers. I just ordered the micro Swiss direct drive and hot end. Got a 0.8mm to have a play with too. Would like to try a variety of filaments.
when you changed from the two fan modules to the single fan module, is it still a 50mm blower fan? For me the fan doesn't seem to fit the shrouding. The holes aren't lining up as I'd expect for the fan. Also, can you provide details on the screws you used? You mentioned m3 (black) screws, are they self tapping? I see some with nuts? And some are silver holding the fan itself on. Can you provide detail on what the various screws are, or point me to a doc that has better details on the fan shrouding assembly?
I have read quite a few other lists of top upgrades for the ender 5. Many of them list upgrading from a bowden system to a direct drive. What are your thoughts on this?
What parts do we need to print for the one piece fan cooler? I couldn't find a good angle to see and the list seems to include the parts for the first one you tried. Thanks!
Kersey I took your advice and installed the Pom anti backlash ball nut. I am running into an issue that one of my ball screws falls sometimes the machine is turned off. So if I measure my bed with probing it is off sometimes like .7mm. So I always have to tele el my bed by adjusting the screw on one side every time I turn it on. Any suggestions on your side. Have you had this issue. I think everything is so tension free that with the weight of the table the residual tension in the motor can not hold it up. Please let me know your advice. Thanks
I'm sorry to hear about your problem. I don't have this problem and I haven't heard of anyone having this issue either. Was this a problem before you changed nuts?
Kersey Fabrications no it was not. But when I changed the nuts I made sue to square up the rails better. So now there is no additional friction in Z. It prints great once leveled.
@@MickeyBassman unfortunately no. I kind of never touch the bed unless the machine is on. I also re verify the table is level every time I turn the machine.
Hi, I am not shure if it fits to this printer, but how do you think about turning around the spring and POM nuts, so that they press the printing plate down and not up? And my favourite upgrade, as already mentioned, did you try a direct feed?
Great informations here, thank you! What do you think about upgrading to direct drive extruder on this machine (Prusa MK3 like)? Do you think there will be more advantages than this upgrades?
I go back and forth on this one. I think you're going to possibly need to slow down your prints if you add more weight to the X-axis but the print quality will improve in other ways. Overall, you probably gain more than you lose. Being able to print flexible filaments reliably would be a nice upgrade.
Can you possibly update the file list for the Hero Me parts? I just went to download them and since they have been recently been updated to Gen4, the files names don't match and none mention Ender 5 (just CR10S and Ender3) So not sure which files to print now. (Ender 5 Plus, Gulf Coast Robotics all metal hot end, direct drive, Exoslide)
@@kerseyfabs I read through the comments and found where he posted a link to where he stored all of the GEN3 files so I'm good to go :) www.dropbox.com/s/qm3x7al7v34k2uk/Hero%20Me%20Gen3%20-%20Ender3%3APro%20CR-10%3AS%20STL%20Files.zip?dl=0
For anyone looking still, I have added the files to the description on my Google drive. The Hero Me Gen3 has been taken down from Thingiverse. I will evaluate newer versions later but I have archived the Gen3 for my viewers. Hero Me Gen3 (Complete Download): drive.google.com/file/d/1p7w9IDcdJ62TNCJ5oHje6HooSYsKJchY/view?usp=sharing Hero Me Gen3 (Ender 5 Parts Only): drive.google.com/file/d/1NeK_pgA0ybvXzCa8dG-aapFtDAmJl6yg/view?usp=sharing The Hero Me line of coolers is by Andrew Soderberg (mediaman) and is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license. Needed Parts: Hero_Me_Base_for_Ender_5_Gen3a.stl Hero_Me_Base_Lock_Ender_5_Gen3.stl BLTouch_Wing_Dual_fan_Ender_5_Gen3.stl Hero_Me_Dual_5015_Duct_Gen3.stl BLTouch_adj_mount_dual_fan_-_Gen2a.stl
So I printed all the recommended parts for the Hero me gen 3 but the parts dont fit on my printer. I'm not sure what happened. Also what screws where used?
Direct drive does not come without trade-offs usually. 1) They add a lot of weight to the gantry and can slow down printing for similar quality, especially when the whole gantry moves. 2) They are more involved for people with less experience to install. I know the cooler is also involved but I tried to keep them easy and the Hero Me does have simpler options.
@@kerseyfabs I've read about weight being a tradeoff but the articles I've read seem to concurr that there is a net gain in most cases. Also, in the Ender 5 series weight of the extrude system isn't an issue because the Z axis motor isn't moving the extrude system. Only the X & Y motors move the extrude system and they see only the mass not the weight. Direct drive will be my first mod when my Ender 5 arrives. Besides increased efficiency, I've been told I need direct drive and all metal hot end to use carbon fiber reinforced nylon filament.
I liked the video. I just got mine and have been going through and getting it set up for service now. I did want to make one comment though. Backlash compensation on the z axis should be completely unnecessary. This is because the bed moves fairly freely under gravity and the accelerations in the z moves are nowhere near gravitational accelerations. Thus there is always a downwards force that pushes the bed down onto the lead screws. This will keep the bed registered on the right side of the screw unless there is binding in the bed or somehow you get the accelerations so high that you exceed 1 g. I suspect that is why you didn't see any improvement in your prints after upgrading. Save the money and put it elsewhere.
Thanks! I actually agree with you unless you're using pretty agressive Z-hop. 👍 I recommend switching to POM to end the notorious squeaking. I use the ant-backlash just to tighten up the tolerances. It may not be necessary but if I'm replacing, might as well.
@@kerseyfabs yeah... If i cant solve some of the print quality issues maybe ill try that. I put white lithium grease on the threads and it stopped squeaking.
The BLtouch is realy not so close, How can i change the location info in the firmware, Also ik you install the new extruder cooler the X length is not fully usable, how to correct this
It depends on which firmware you're running. If you're running the stock or silent board with 1.x firmware, check Configuration.h: #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -45 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle] #define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -7 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle] #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -3 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle] If you're running 2.x firmware, no need to recompile: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html
My personal favorite and a nice drop-in replacement is the all-metal Micro Swiss hotend. I've done several videos on it here. Here's a product link: amzn.to/3dYkndP
In each of my videos, I try to include links to the exact parts I used for my projects. This is for two reasons: 1) I want to make it easy for you to find the parts if you choose to do the project. 2) If I link you to the EXACT part I used then I can almost promise you'll have similar results. I always try to avoid linking to "similar" parts because I have not tested them personally.
With that being said, I have noticed that sometimes Amazon or their resellers will swap the part in the link for a similar part. Unfortunately, this is completely out of my control and I don't find out about it until someone complains or I just happen to notice. I always try to post the specs of the item in the description or talk about it in the video. Always verify what you're ordering! Check the specs and make sure the product is still correct. I apologize for any inconveniences but it really is out of my control.
Trust me when I say I have watched many of your videos and I love them they are very informative. The only problem is that I just got the ender 5 plus and most of the things that you complained about, creality has fixed most of the problems (like the power supply the printer came with a meanwell). It took a little while to get the profile but its in cura I'm going to test it out.
Thanks for the links to the fans and connectors for the Hero Me parts. One thing missing that I was hoping for is a link to a screw kit for the parts but I'm on the hunt now. Just thought I'd point it out as others may also benefit in the future.
Do you loose z height when installing the antibacklash nuts that way? I just installed mine and looks like it looses 10mm about. Why not install them in the orientation that the original brass nuts were? I don't think the orientation of the nut would matter right?
@@blitz355 I realize this is a long time after the fact, but I just installed the recommended plastic lead screw nuts with the anti-backlash springs. I tried the orientation indicated here, but found the springs have to support the entire weight of the bed, which makes actually worse than stock. Flipping the nuts over however leads to the lead screw not being long enough. I had to clamp the drive shaft of the stepper motors much higher than stock so there was enough lead screw for the smaller end of the nut to stay engaged when starting a print. Neglect to do this, and you'll be hunting for a spring and a little black nut.
3:50 - Upgrade #1, Bowden Tube
6:26 - Upgrade #2, Nozzle
9:28 - Installing Upgrades #1 & #2
11:16 - Before/After Test Prints
12:08 - Upgrade #3, All Metal Extruder
14:46 - Before/After Test Prints
15:52 - Upgrade #4, Lead Screw Nut
20:43- Before/After Test Prints
22:16 - Upgrade #5, Part Cooler
28:10 - Before/After Test Prints
30:51 - Review
The GOAT
I just added these to the video description so it will be easier to find and show up as chapters. Thanks Austin!
Yes, thanks to everyone for the information in this video
Man you deserve 10x the subscribers you have. Your Ender 5+ videos helped me out and saved me a ton of time; thanks!
Thank you so much! I'm glad I could help!
Thank you for the first part of this video. There are so many Facebook groups and Reddit threads of people asking to solve a problem and they ended up doing 5+ upgrades at the same time and then have no clue where to start.
Super video! I applauded for $5.00 👏👏
Wow, thanks! I really appreciate it!
20:19 I myself use the Printer's X axis Gantry for setting the Z axis heights on both sides. Check first at the at the Lead Screw locations, then check the outer areas, in case the Z axis/bed mount bar might be bent as you move out further near the slides & end, or the main frame is tweaked or the mounting locations of each Z axis units are not 100 Percent identical. That way it is parallel to the gantry with the extruder.
That's a great idea and technically more accurate than my way. Let's just hope my frame is square! To the point, luckily I still have to manually level the bed which should square anything else up.
@@kerseyfabs Ya, after i did the Z axis off the Gantry, I then did the initial manual bed adjustment off the Gantry also, before firing it up for the first time & using the software & paper. Just to try to have everything close & hoping for a easy go at it.
Having an archived version of the hero me 3 is a life saver. I had looked at newer versions but hate how the hot end does not mount directly to the plate anymore and has a huge spacer there instead.
Bravo! One of the best and most detailed upgrade videos ever. Keep up the great work.
Thanks! I think it's about time for a new one!
You present a well thought out, methodical approach to solving problems and creating efficiency. BRAVO!
I did not only replace the plastic by a metal extruder but on a Bond-Tech BMG extruder which is way better than the regular metal extruder by using a dual drive.
Hey! You've been an amazing help with the 5 Plus so far, there just doesn't seem to be much material out there on it specifically. In this video you mention adjusting the e-steps and calibrating the extruder, but I can't find anywhere that has information on how to do that with the firmware on the 5+. Is there anywhere you have by chance made a video or have information on how to do that with the touch screen firmware? Everything I find is for the 3 or 5 with completely different settings options than I have.
Thank you! The trick with the E5+ is that it has to be done via hooking up the USB cable to your computer since the display doesn't have the setting. Then you can set the values via g-code commands. I plan to do a series of short tutorials. This one is going to be at the top of the list.
@@kerseyfabs that would be beyond helpful. I seem to have some fairly nasty extrusion issues, and I'm sure a lot of it has to do with the flow rate and retraction levels, but all of that seems tied into calibrating the extruder. Learning all of this is an absolute blast, but the info that exists for the 5+ is EXTREMELY limited at this point. A tutorial on how to connect and update all that would be extremely helpful! Hitting on subscribe now!
@@caseyfrederick9887 i agree with casey show a step by step how to fo the e step process.
@@caseyfrederick9887 Totally agree. Great video first of all. Taping into upgrading the firmware would help especially doing the upgrade you suggested. Thank you
@@kerseyfabs Pronterface FTW! :)
Another note. I own a Bondtech BMG and thought I'd replace the plastic extruder with that. No go, the body of the BMG covers one of the screws that attaches the extruder/filament out bracket so it won't mount. Even if it did the in hole of the BMG doesn't at all match the out hole on the filament sensor. a custom mounting plate would be needed.
Thanks for the report! Good to know!
Super video! I applauded for $10.00 👏👏👏
Much appreciated!
Great work man. The new intro looks great and a ton of great info. I absolutely have to agree with the use it and find the flaws.
I know this is old, but that plastic extruder arm is and always will be a "must change". It breaks in the rear at the pivot point causing massive underextrusion. Some break right away, some after quite a while. But it's a printable fix that takes < 1hr, or as you mentioned, you can buy a metal one cheap. It will save a ton of headache and confusion since you can't actually see that it's broken without removing it.
Yep! A must! Thanks for the feedback!
Just picked up a 5 plus, any chance you could link that print for me?
I gotta thank you again for all the stuff you share with the community! Ive gotten some great info tha helped from you and all that you do in the groups and chats as well! cheers to you!
I appreciate that! I'll do my best to keep it coming!
The ultimate upgrade for the Ender 5 plus is a tie between the silent main board and direct drive extruder. Nice vid, but I am surprised you missed both of these.
Great job Kris! Great minds think alike! Haha
Yep! A few of these are unavoidable. 😉
I’m lining up my upgrades Kris! Thank you so much for your diligence and detail. Top notch!
Awesome! Thank you!
Great video Kris, I've done a few of these upgrades now on my printer. One thing I would recommend as a 6th upgrade is lowering the front crossbar. That drove me bonkers for months until I sorted it out. I can finally see the print getting done. I've found it really helpful for just monitoring the first couple of layers.
Thanks for the tip. I've seen that done before but haven't considered it myself. I see how that would be nice for those first layers.
Pt. 4 The new spring/knob configuration may not result in any significant improvement now, but I would assume that the risk of a failed print later on, due to a shift will be less?
Pt. 5 How much weight would you estimate that the new cooling configuration add? My main concern here would be that the added mass could cause some additional wiggle when the gantry (?) including the extruder assembly, moves back and forth.
Have you tried configuring "Linear Advance" on the Ender 5 Plus? Teaching Tech has a video showing quite and improvement on corners and edges.
Also, you seem focus mainly on stringing, but I couldn't help notice that the layering on the final tubby came out a lot smoother than the initial print.
One thing I miss is an overview of the estimated cost of each upgrade and if you thing the upgrade is worth it. Maybe you could at it at the end of the 2nd (last?) video?
Thank you for putting out this video. Looking forward to the next one :)
Pt. 4 - That's correct.
Pt. 5 - I have you covered! Check out my video here: ruclips.net/video/nGxC0QkL4Mc/видео.html I included the timecode to the graph in case you didn't want to watch the entire thing. I can tell you from my experience that I haven't noticed any additional print artifacts. I have conservative jerk and acceleration settings.
Upgrading everything you suggested except the part cooler. Fingers crossed this gets me the accuracy I am looking for on this new 5 plus! So far between your videos and Teaching Tech my quality has improved drastically. Thanks!
Thanks! I hope it looks fantastic when you're done!
You're a huge help Kris, I'm running BTT SKR 3 with TFT35 on my ender 5 plus through your videos, just started from 0 about a year ago. What are your thoughts on cooling in 2023 for this printer?
Thanks! I'd still go with the latest Hero Me, which is up to like Gen 7.
@@kerseyfabs Hah, just watched your new video. I have exoslides as well, so might be going that route. From one engineer to another, can't thank you enough.
@@goodz1219 That's fantastic! If you do, let me know how it goes.
@@kerseyfabs Will do!
Thanks very much for this video I was having trouble finding the correct cooler head with the two radials this made it alot easier :) keep up the great work!
Thanks for sharing these and I CANNOT WAIT to try the replacement POM Anti-backlash Nut upgrade you showed! My Ender-5 Plus was/is making horrible squeaking noises when moving the Z-axis bed up/down in certain places. White lithium grease has helped some, but I am looking for something better, so thanks!
Thanks for your video. What do you think about ender 5 global quality and precision ?????
The Ender 5 Plus can be tuned and upgraded to be a very precise machine thanks to it's frame. Out of the box, it's a good printer but it's not as good as it can be. Also, quality and precision is very relative to expectations, so I'm careful not to over-promise here.
@@kerseyfabs Thanks. At this point my reflexion was 1 prusa mk3 or 2 ender 5 ????
Thanks for the video but on the leadscrews did you try the POM nuts that were not anti Backlash? Reason I ask is on a Z axis since the weight already loads the nut there is no need for antibacklash on a Z axis. In fact the added drag of the spring could cause inconsistency and have my hysteresis (lost motion) between each screw. Your thoughts on this?
Hey Marc! I do have the non-anti-backlash nuts and they do work of course. The only reason I added the anti-backlash is because I thought it would help with rigidity and reduce some potential issues with z-hop. I think the motors have plenty of torque due to the shallow angle of the screws to resist and drag created. If I had more time, I would love to test accuracy of both solutions using a gauge.
Tryed this upgrade and one side of the bed keeps dropping just a little. Micron 14 on one side and it drops to 15.5 on the other I am not sure if it is the nuts or the cuppler as it just slips a little and you can watch the moter turn and it stops at the 15.5 mark.
Any ideas or sujestions on this?
my plastic extruder broke a few days ago. I got horrible filament off amazon that broke and got stuck in my tube causing the motor to continue spinning and adding force pushing the tube to pull it until it cracked from what i can tell since i wasnt home. i upgraded mine for 20$ or so for a metal one. Highly recommend it because of the amount of damage it can do if it does end up cracking. Not something i thought would ever be an issue until it happened.
I have to say that this RUclips channel help me being completely lost, to “holy crap I can’t believe I printed that”! I honestly didn’t think this ENDER 3 Plus could print like this. It’s completely unreal how amazing this printer is.
Awesome Jake! I'm glad to hear that your journey has been so positive. Congrats!
Great video. Thanks for all the information. Doing the before and after is something that I always think about after. Thanks for taking the time to do this. You're doing great things.
Subscribed! I have had seemingly nothing but issues with my new E5+ and your videos have been very informative! Thank you!
awesome! =D
i think that that printer should have a direct drive buying option because even if one uses a high quality bowden tube, it is still waaaay too long and requires quite a bit of tuning.
I'll be covering this as soon as possible. 😁
:D
@@kerseyfabs great
You know what I got from this video? A Ender 5 plus is a badass printer stock.
agree.... especially when spending about $550 for it! but nice to have these options... great video, thanks!
Every time i have to change filament during a bring (usually larger ones that take 1.3-1.8 kg) i always get layer shift. the print always seems to shift back towards the rear of the machine, and I've taken extra steps to avoid touching the print and the bed because i did not that the print bed does move very easily. I added more clips and ran tape along the edges to better secure it. I access filament and change it from the side and even moved the spool holder to hang off to the side to afford me more room to work. I have made sure the X and Y were properly homed, i re ran my wiring thinking maybe something got in the way and tricked the hotend into thinking it had homed when it really had not. The prints are 100% adhered to the bed, and the bed itself is no longer moving, so i have removed those as potential causes. I ensured that nothing was hitting the end stops that shouldn't be, and i am still seeing this albeit less severe.
any thoughts on this? I am not opposed to swapping out anything, and am more than capable to do any upgrade, wiring, etc that needs be done, i just can't find the source of this shift to be able to apply a solution to it. The only thing i can think is that these larger prints (protoman helmet from thingiverse at 120% for example) might be over running the stock boards capacity? or maybe a stepper voltage is off?
That's really strange. The most common cause of this would be bumping the X/Y gantry or the gantry slightly moving due to pushing and pulling filament out. On the stock firmware, the run-out process is controlled by the display. This means if you're not happy with its operation, you could swap the display for a 12864 display (Marlin text) and then rebuild the firmware to let Marlin handle filament run-out which _may_ be more reliable.
One of my stock fans has had a bit of bearing damage after a pretty gnarly failed print that backed up into the fan housing and trapped the blades - I'm going to need to get it replaced and decided I may as well go through this upgrade while im at it. Your instructions are great, my only question is, what size/type screws are you using with these fan mounting parts and did you get them on amazon as well?
Sorry to hear about the damage. Almost all 3D printer screws are metric screws. These usually range from m3 to m5 and you'll need various lengths. Something like this set is a great start but I can't promise it will have everything: amzn.to/3kZLfLD
For mounting the fans and hotend, I think all the screws are m3.
@@kerseyfabs Sweet! thanks. the stock fan was missing a blade, and the vibration would make it impossible to continue working so I took it apart and super glued the missing blade back in place just so i could get the balance back and functionality back long enough to print the mounts in your suggested upgrade, which i intended to do anyways - but desperation has made it necessary. I suppose I'll switch to an all metal hotend while im at it and get it all over with at once. Love your channel, Thanks for the help!
At the end of this video, you mention that you're going to do a video on upgrading the electronics. I've nearly finished upgrading my E5P with a BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209s. It's very non-trivial. For one thing, it's impossible to keep the existing DWIN screen with the current (2.0.4.4) Marlin release. I've switched to a BTT TFT35-3.0. As time goes by, I'm learning to appreciate its ugly 12864 mode more than it's slick touch-screen mode.
If you like, we can exchange notes on the process.
Thanks Don for the offer. You're absolutely right about it being non-trivial and about the display swap being a must. Not only from a functional perspective do you need to change out the display but you also gain so much control from the traditional LCD. Feel free to drop me an e-mail or message me on Facebook, Instagram, or Twitter with your details. My contact info is in the description. Thanks!
How did you compile the Marlin firmware? I just bought the same setup for my E5P, but am having serious trouble finding configuration.h files for the Plus. The other Enders are easy to find, but the Plus seems conspicuously absent from the 'examples' file. Any insight you could provide would be *greatly* appreciated!
Don Krapf I’m doing the same. Mind sharing your notes with me?
@@jetthreat5000 - I'd be happy to share my notes and config files. I'm not sure how best to do it.
I'm sure my config files aren't perfect, but they're close enough that I'm printing with them.
Great video! Thanks again for showcasing my Hero Me cooling system. I'm sorry you had the issue with the lightweight 5015 ducts. When I completed them I had not fully tested the dual setup with the other options (BLTouch and EZABL mounts) before I had to take a break for a few months. There's a couple great remixes that resolve the spacing issue for the BLTouch mount when used with the lightweight ducts. I can't take credit (or blame) for your choice of the 40mm fan shield as that is not my design. ;) There are now some brands of 5015 fans where the width of the exhaust port has changed. I am currently testing with TH3DStudios.com a revision of the Gen 3 cooling ducts to allow for these slightly larger 5015 fans. I hope to have them posted in the next week or so.
Thanks for stopping by again MediaDog. I'm still quite happy with the solution. Switching back to the joined fans was no big deal. It just took a little extra time.
I was sold on your design thanks to his videos and that is hat I will be running with now. Any chance gen 3 V6 parts will be on the way soon?(or even dream, Mosquito).
@@kerseyfabs Here is the BLTouch mount remix for the Hero Me to work with the light weight 5015 parts you wanted to use in the first place in your video: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3884550
I maybe miss it or maybe I'm wrong but did you heat the hot end while changing the nozzle? I changed the nozzle on one of my printers without heating the end and It works just as good as always, but I have seen guides and videos where they mention that the hot end need to get heated to remove and replace the nozzle, did they heat it in order to soften any material that is still on the end and make it easy to break it loose or is because of the thermal expansion of the heather block that it will make tighter the seal around the new nozzle?
You heat the nozzle to remove it to loosen any stuck plastic. You heat the nozzle to insert the new one to account for thermal expansion. It's heated the whole time though.
@@kerseyfabs do you heat the end, unscrew the old nozzle and screw back the new one? How tight you get the new nozzle?
Kris, thank you for your great vids. I have the ender 5 plus, and have completed a couple of the top 5 upgrades. All worked well before and after upgrade! An issue has just appeared. I am trying to print a flat bottom print approx 300mm x 300mm. The first 4 were fine no adhesion issues with no skirt or brim. The last three attempts have resulted in warping, so I added a brim to see if that helped. This is where the issue really became apparent. The brim prints but has poor adhesion. I have tried levelling the bed 3 times and it seems fine, and have adjusted the amount of resistance to the test paper from tight to able to just slide between the tip and bed. Each time much the same happens, back right side has rough to touch surface and after about 6 rounds of the brim starts to lift and is quite hard and is twisted off the bed on the right angle of the brim. Tried items from 195 to 205 and 55 to 65. Do you have any suggestions, you assistance would be greatly appreciated. I am sure its a simple enough thing I'm missing. Latest Cura for slicing.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad they're working for you. There's a couple of things.
1) Make sure you're using the auto bed leveling on a piece that big. It will need an accurate mesh.
2) If you're printing on the glass side of the build plate, wash with dish detergent and hot water. Dry with paper towels. Don't touch with your fingers. If you're printing on the textured side, I think cleaning with IPA will be your best bet.
3) Curling corners usually means too close, so I'd back off a bit.
I hope this helps.
@@kerseyfabs
Thanks Kris. I will use the auto bed levelling as suggested, I have been using the smooth side of the build plate, it seems to offer better adhesion and have been washing as per your suggestion.
Thanks again, I look forward to a more successful next print.
Stay Safe. Bill
2 year old video, but it still helps.
I just recently purchased this printer and assembled it today. Tested out a pre-file of a rabbit with hardly any issues. Some small string between the eyes and a little roughness. I did an extra orde for the Tubing, nozzle and the Extruder and swapped out the stock so far and tested. 2nd print is a fireplace with small details and have no stings, but still have a little roughness. Should I move forward and do steps 4 and 5? Would that make the difference for the roughness?
Also thank you for the education, tutorial and all that for this printer. This made my decision to buy. Thank you 👍
Great breakdown and explanations for each upgrade, thanks Kris!
Hero Me Gen 5 Master Suite is on Thingverse here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460970 Don.t even waste your time with 3 anymore this new one is easy mode for all kinds of parts and almost anything you need Creality printer wise.
I've ordered the PALM anti-backlash nuts, but I'm thinking about it and it seems like it would be better for these nuts to work WITH gravity and push the bed down. Unfortunately, there isn't room on the lead screws above the bed. Have you ever seen or heard of anti- backlash nuts that can pull rather than push?
The anti-backlash nuts don't work with or against gravity, they actually just hold the bed in place and prevent wobble and add rigidity.
I thought the same thing. If the rod had been longer, the screw could have been mounted on the upper side. Maybe there are rods that are longer.
So layout the principals and steps for the upgrade process then completely disregard them ?
Is tubing diameter the problem? What is the test and how do you determine the problem is fixed? Because the diameter is now smaller?
I'm sorry. Did I fall short in one of my descriptions? The inner diameter of the tubing is the problem. With too much extra space in there, the retraction is loose an can be sloppy. This can result in stringing and other artifacts. You can test to see how this affects your prints by running example prints, particularly stringing test or tests that results in "zits" and seeing if they've improved. If you don't have such issues, there is probably no reason to upgrade the tubing. Although, it can also sometimes allow for shorter retractions which are quicker.
Why didnt you use a dual gear extruder? Is the single one you used better than the dual gear?
I've heard some issues with the cheap dual gear that's available and haven't tested it myself yet. I went with the extruder that works well for me. I'm sure there are some higher-end solutions though that would be better.
Not sure if it applies to 3D printers with twin screws... but in automation applications on production lines where twin+ screws are used, having one with slight play is pretty normal. It helps prevent wear on either screw by preventing excessive force/friction if there's minor misalignment.
As I say... this is in regards to significantly larger/longer screws 🤷♂️
Great video. Why no silent board upgrade?
If I remember correctly, when I published this top 5, I didn't have a favorite silent board yet. If I chose one now, it would probably be the E3 Turbo.
Kris, I have been looking for POM anti-backlash nuts for this machine but have found two listings on Amazon UK for the Ender 5 + one has 2mm pitch and 4mm lead and 2 starts and the other 2mm pitch and 8mm lead and 4 starts
Do you know which is the correct or most suitable one?
Pitch 2mm, lead 4mm. That should help you pick the right one.
Brilliant rundown with great detail based on real life experience
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for commenting!
I would love you know more about the eateps . Also it’s a shame that the bed cools down when the sensor detects the filament running out. I also appreciate your comments about how people should test their printers first before modifying them many people on Facebook groups modify their end or three’s as soon as they get them out of the box before even testing them first.
Pasted from another reply: "Thank you! The trick with the E5+ is that [e-steps have] to be done via hooking up the USB cable to your computer since the display doesn't have the setting. Then you can set the values via g-code commands. I plan to do a series of short tutorials. This one is going to be at the top of the list."
Kersey Fabrications I am looking forward to that video.
You seem to be the RUclips ender 5 plus pro. I got one about 6 months ago and didn’t take to long to get the z home and start printing. I’ve had 80% success rate with just the glass bed no hair spray or glue stix. I’ve used 7kg + off filament and about a week ago everything stopped sticking I’ve used hairspray for a week now and it no longer holds a print, they start good the lettering on the bottom of my benchys are crisp and clear. Has the glass already worn out? is there a aftermarket flexible mag bed that will fit the large print area?
Have you tried to simply take the bed and clean it with dish soap and hot water on the smooth side and try that? That's what I used. I also love Vision Miner Nano Polymer Adhesive. If you're looking for a flex sheet, I think TH3D sells a complete kit.
I know this video came out a while ago now.
I ended up upgrading my extruder and tube right as I was assembling the unit.
The extruder that was sent to me looks identical to the one you are using and the link that I followed but the tube coupler is not threaded you push the tube holder into the extruder then push the tube into the extruder like normal but without the brass bit. Have you ever had experience with that type of extruder.
My next upgrade is cooling Any project that I’ve been doing looks better when facing the right side towards the fan
I have not seen that. Hmmm. If it works great. If not, it sounds like they may have changed the part and I'll need to take a look.
Your videos helped me very much with my ender 5 plus and all the upgrades,very informative, excellent explanations and everything, thank you very much Kersey!!!
Kris did you end up upgrading the Hero Me on the 5 Pluss machine to a more recent version I dont remember seeing another video on it?
With the backlash nuts, I see an option for 8mm. Is that not preferred since it might have higher tension. Or is 4mm the standard?
That 4mm lead has to do with the thread size on the screw. Unless you also plan to change your lead screw, you have to buy a certain size.
Silly question. This is my first time upgrading the cooling component and wanted to know where you get the screws for the one-piece BLTouch_adj_mount_dual_fan part.
I'd buy screw assortments in the beginning that should have what you need for a number of projects. Something like this: amzn.to/3NjZxo1
Unless you know exactly what you need.
great video, Will be doing some of these upgrades. Still fairly new at 3D Printing. Calibrating the extruder is that easy to do??
Glad it was helpful! I plan to do a video version of this but take a look at Matt's Hub: mattshub.com/blogs/blog/extruder-calibration
Hi, now that some time has gone by, would you still recommend this printer for someone who needs a bigger bed machine like the Ender 5 Plus?
This is a great vid. My E5 plus prints like a champ out of the box I am really impressed with how good the quality is over my previous printer. (FLSun Q5) So far I've only done Capricorn tube and 0.6m nozzle, so 15 bucks worth of upgrades - adjusted retract to 30mm/s from 25. That's it! Took a few prints over to my dad earlier and he was like: wow. Next job is cooling and quiet board for sure (i want to make it quieter) so just downloaded the minefield that is the Hero Me zip file.
Did tubing fix the stringing or retraction change?
I just went with this upgrade for cooling. I decided on the gen 3 because i didnt want to move my CR touch. My problem i am having is now my nozzle temp will get to 201 Celsius and then stall out. I can shut the cooling fan off and it will reach the proper temp. But the ender 5 plus defaults to cooling fan on while heating up.
That should be in your start G-code, not in the firmware. Check it out in the slicer.
where can I find that cooler mount for the dual fans that fits with the BL touch on the ender 5 plus? I like that setup and bought all the parts / fans etc to replicate this, but I can't find the files for that mount anywhere. the bantamount site seems like it's not really kept up with anymore?
I'd check out HeroMe Gen7. It's the latest and greatest: www.printables.com/model/39322-hero-me-gen7-master-suite-release-21
My first upgrade was the tubing ,with all the upgrades it soon be a ender 5 pro
Could you show how to install these improvements? And where is the best place to find parts
Thank you again for this wonderful video. Question with the firmware. I just purchased the 1.4 turbo, TFT35 V3.0 screen and i just installed a dual gear extruder and almost everything is stock. can i still use your BIN firmware to flash and install the new marlin? i dont have any knowledge on doing all that stuff. also, do you have a file for that screen cover that you use for the new screen?? thank you so much.
Three years later, and the 300x300x300 K1 Max now as an option .... would you recommend an upgraded Ender 5 Plus, ignoring the slightly larger build plate traded off against the K1 Max on-board features ???
With a lot of the modern options available, I have a tough time still recommending the Ender 5 Plus unless you want a project printer.
Hi Kris,
I have an old cocoon create i3 touch printer and hopefully move to sla printing soon. I have followed your videos for a long time and think that you have an ability to cover everthing thoroughly and methodically. Keep up the top grade reviews and how to videos, they are a great help here in Brisbane ,Queensland ,Australia. Very very good work. John Hennessy.
Thank you very much for the comment John! I'll keep doing my best!
Great videos,
Good Information well explained and much appreciated. After watching all your videos I ended up on deciding to add an ender 5 plus to my collection. And I was able to make an informed decision on what to order for upgrades before the unit even shipped. And as a bonus it shipped with a meanwell powersupply. Something I wouldn't have even known to look for if not for your videos.
Thanks again and keep up the great work.
Thanks Ted for the feedback! I hope you enjoy your machine!
Nice video. I am thinking about the SKR with the TFT screen. Do you plan on doing this upgrade?
Yes. I'm going to start with the easiest board to upgrade (E3) with a TFT35. I'll release my configuration and compiled firmware. If there's demand for other boards, I can do others.
@@kerseyfabs between you and @edgeoftech life is good
Great Video. I just got my own Ender 5 Plus and had been doing some of the same upgrades, but had a question and was wondering if you had the same experience or not before and/or after you changed the lead screw buts. When the bed would go down, it would make this squeaking sound. Did you first encounter this before upgrading the nuts, and if so, did changing them help or not?
I just ordered the printer, and all of the upgrades for through your links, instead of upgrading should I just put these on to begin with?
I hope you have a terrific experience with your printer! Don't just add them. You need to make sure the printer works well out of the box first. You want to be sure where potential problems come from. Take your time to understand what the upgrades are doing. Find some fun test prints.
its been 3 years now so i was wondering if you notice a big or small difference in print quality with the new POM Anti-backlash Nut
I don't know at this point if they make a huge quality difference but it solves the squeaking problem a lot of people have and the motion of the Z screws is just smoother in general.
Great video! Can ask roughly how much these upgrades cost in total?
My rough estimate is about $70. It's variable though depending on which components you may already have around. For example, the fans a link to come in a pack of five but you don't need all five for this project. Also the nozzles vary in price depending on which one you choose.
Could you do a video on the cable management for the ender 5 plus? There are not any good tutorials on RUclips for this using drag chains like I want to use
Hey Kris! Great video as usual. Appreciated your work man.
Glad you enjoyed it!
If you had to decide between the Ender5 Plus and Artillery Sidewinder which would you pick for first time user?
I honestly think the Sidewinder would be an easier experience but you may be happier with the Ender 5 Plus long term. What's most important?
not gonna lie those fans mod looks badass, looking forward to upgrade mine to that kind of fan shroud.
I have them on both of my primary printers and they work great!
I personally reccomend the EZR-Struder from SeeMeCNC as an extruder upgrade. It's not metal but it's damn well made.
I've heard good things. I actually have one but have had no time to install it.
I'm not sure if this has been asked yet, but what gauge wire did you use for the y-adapter?
24 guage wire should be fine for all but the highest draw fans.
@@kerseyfabs Awesome, thank you for the fast reply
I am not sure about the hero me fan duct. Is it enough to print the hero me gen 3 in PLA? I want to use the German brand material4print in yellow. Thx
Yes. Mine is printed in PLA.
@@kerseyfabs do you know which slicer Settings I need? I think 20% infill und tree supports are not enough ?
You could do 50% and supports to build plate only.
Do you think they will be making a way to keep the bed hot when the printer detects running out of filament?
That would take new firmware. I haven't heard of them releasing any new versions. They told me they were planning to release the source though. From there we may be able to fix it.
Kersey Fabrications . Thanks !
Which backlash nut did you go with? There are 2mm and 8mm versions.
I have links in the description: 2mm Pitch, 4mm Lead
Kris, I remember once watching a video where the chap had bought some quality Bowden tubing that had the 2mm ID but I can't remember where I saw this or the name of the Bowden tubing product.
Do you know the name of this product?
Are you talking about Capricorn tubing or a different brand?
Hi Kris! Quick question how you know which fan to get? 24 vs 12V? Dual ball bearings or hydraulic bearing (this last part is probably a preference) thank you!
24V on all of the Creality printers. I personally like the dual ball bearings for longevity and reliability.
Thank you!
I’m having adhesion issues, I’ve tried tape and glue. Would you recommend enclosing it?
Hey Kersey Fab
Thanks for the intro and review and these Top 5 mod on the Ender 5 Plus - Just got mine (my first 3D printer) and haven't unboxed it yet due to fall break in Denmark, I've desided to order the 4 first of you upgrades and get them installed before assembly of the printer, just a questing why a nozzle with .8 mm instead of the .4 mm seens like a big hole compered to the standart one. Maybe I didn't pay attension in your Video - but whats to main reason for that? - thx again for some good videos - are looking forward to see more as I dig into this new 3D printer world
I picked up one yesterday. Also my first printer. Took a few hours to get it running nice but spent the whole day printing today with no probs. I'm really happy with the purchase so far.
Thanks Peter for the question. A larger nozzle diameter just extrudes more filament per pass. This means faster print times. It can also mean stronger prints in many situations. Now this also means slightly less accuracy on fine details and corners but that's going to depend on your print. You can also have some issues with retraction and temperatures that you will need to tune.
From a practical perspective, I print with a 0.4mm nozzle 95% of the time and only pull out the 0.8 for really large prints. If you're new to 3D printing, having a variety of nozzle sizes is nice to learn with. Inexpensive brass nozzles is fine for this purpose.
@@kerseyfabs awesome info. Cheers. I just ordered the micro Swiss direct drive and hot end. Got a 0.8mm to have a play with too. Would like to try a variety of filaments.
when you changed from the two fan modules to the single fan module, is it still a 50mm blower fan? For me the fan doesn't seem to fit the shrouding. The holes aren't lining up as I'd expect for the fan.
Also, can you provide details on the screws you used? You mentioned m3 (black) screws, are they self tapping? I see some with nuts? And some are silver holding the fan itself on. Can you provide detail on what the various screws are, or point me to a doc that has better details on the fan shrouding assembly?
I have read quite a few other lists of top upgrades for the ender 5. Many of them list upgrading from a bowden system to a direct drive. What are your thoughts on this?
I personally have not found a DD extruder I'm happy with yet. When I do, I'll let everyone know. I have a couple in shop I need to test.
are you sure that the lead screws are TR8x4mm 2mm pitch? The diameter of the Ender5-plus is 8mm
What parts do we need to print for the one piece fan cooler? I couldn't find a good angle to see and the list seems to include the parts for the first one you tried. Thanks!
Kersey I took your advice and installed the Pom anti backlash ball nut. I am running into an issue that one of my ball screws falls sometimes the machine is turned off. So if I measure my bed with probing it is off sometimes like .7mm. So I always have to tele el my bed by adjusting the screw on one side every time I turn it on. Any suggestions on your side. Have you had this issue. I think everything is so tension free that with the weight of the table the residual tension in the motor can not hold it up. Please let me know your advice. Thanks
I'm sorry to hear about your problem. I don't have this problem and I haven't heard of anyone having this issue either. Was this a problem before you changed nuts?
Kersey Fabrications no it was not. But when I changed the nuts I made sue to square up the rails better. So now there is no additional friction in Z. It prints great once leveled.
@@MickeyBassman unfortunately no. I kind of never touch the bed unless the machine is on. I also re verify the table is level every time I turn the machine.
Hi, I am not shure if it fits to this printer, but how do you think about turning around the spring and POM nuts, so that they press the printing plate down and not up? And my favourite upgrade, as already mentioned, did you try a direct feed?
Great informations here, thank you! What do you think about upgrading to direct drive extruder on this machine (Prusa MK3 like)? Do you think there will be more advantages than this upgrades?
I go back and forth on this one. I think you're going to possibly need to slow down your prints if you add more weight to the X-axis but the print quality will improve in other ways. Overall, you probably gain more than you lose. Being able to print flexible filaments reliably would be a nice upgrade.
Loved the video. Random question, can you attach the 12v laser engraver on the ender 5 plus?
Thanks. You'd need a buck converter since the Ender 5 Plus is a 24V printer.
Can you possibly update the file list for the Hero Me parts? I just went to download them and since they have been recently been updated to Gen4, the files names don't match and none mention Ender 5 (just CR10S and Ender3) So not sure which files to print now. (Ender 5 Plus, Gulf Coast Robotics all metal hot end, direct drive, Exoslide)
I know what you mean! I wish he wouldn't have gotten rid of the 3 for the 4. I'll check this out soon to help out.
@@kerseyfabs I read through the comments and found where he posted a link to where he stored all of the GEN3 files so I'm good to go :) www.dropbox.com/s/qm3x7al7v34k2uk/Hero%20Me%20Gen3%20-%20Ender3%3APro%20CR-10%3AS%20STL%20Files.zip?dl=0
@@conneryc -- THANK GOD for you guys and hunting this down. Why would that guy do that?
@@conneryc you are awesome. Thanks!
For anyone looking still, I have added the files to the description on my Google drive.
The Hero Me Gen3 has been taken down from Thingiverse. I will evaluate newer versions later but I have archived the Gen3 for my viewers.
Hero Me Gen3 (Complete Download): drive.google.com/file/d/1p7w9IDcdJ62TNCJ5oHje6HooSYsKJchY/view?usp=sharing
Hero Me Gen3 (Ender 5 Parts Only): drive.google.com/file/d/1NeK_pgA0ybvXzCa8dG-aapFtDAmJl6yg/view?usp=sharing
The Hero Me line of coolers is by Andrew Soderberg (mediaman) and is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.
Needed Parts:
Hero_Me_Base_for_Ender_5_Gen3a.stl
Hero_Me_Base_Lock_Ender_5_Gen3.stl
BLTouch_Wing_Dual_fan_Ender_5_Gen3.stl
Hero_Me_Dual_5015_Duct_Gen3.stl
BLTouch_adj_mount_dual_fan_-_Gen2a.stl
So I printed all the recommended parts for the Hero me gen 3 but the parts dont fit on my printer. I'm not sure what happened. Also what screws where used?
I don't know why they wouldn't fit. I use various length m3 screws.
Did you use the flat headed m3 screws?
@@michaelpauli734 No, I prefer the hex based screws. Something like these: amzn.to/2Og2XzE
Oh these are nice, lower profile, this might make the cooler actually fit.
Update: The screws are awesome, thanks again!!!!
nice upgrades,with this cooling modification does bl touch will fit in stock position?
You replaced the extruder, why didn't you use a direct drive? Seems to make much more sense to me.
Direct drive does not come without trade-offs usually. 1) They add a lot of weight to the gantry and can slow down printing for similar quality, especially when the whole gantry moves. 2) They are more involved for people with less experience to install. I know the cooler is also involved but I tried to keep them easy and the Hero Me does have simpler options.
@@kerseyfabs I've read about weight being a tradeoff but the articles I've read seem to concurr that there is a net gain in most cases. Also, in the Ender 5 series weight of the extrude system isn't an issue because the Z axis motor isn't moving the extrude system. Only the X & Y motors move the extrude system and they see only the mass not the weight. Direct drive will be my first mod when my Ender 5 arrives. Besides increased efficiency, I've been told I need direct drive and all metal hot end to use carbon fiber reinforced nylon filament.
I liked the video. I just got mine and have been going through and getting it set up for service now. I did want to make one comment though. Backlash compensation on the z axis should be completely unnecessary. This is because the bed moves fairly freely under gravity and the accelerations in the z moves are nowhere near gravitational accelerations. Thus there is always a downwards force that pushes the bed down onto the lead screws. This will keep the bed registered on the right side of the screw unless there is binding in the bed or somehow you get the accelerations so high that you exceed 1 g. I suspect that is why you didn't see any improvement in your prints after upgrading. Save the money and put it elsewhere.
Thanks! I actually agree with you unless you're using pretty agressive Z-hop. 👍 I recommend switching to POM to end the notorious squeaking. I use the ant-backlash just to tighten up the tolerances. It may not be necessary but if I'm replacing, might as well.
@@kerseyfabs yeah... If i cant solve some of the print quality issues maybe ill try that. I put white lithium grease on the threads and it stopped squeaking.
The BLtouch is realy not so close, How can i change the location info in the firmware, Also ik you install the new extruder cooler the X length is not fully usable, how to correct this
It depends on which firmware you're running. If you're running the stock or silent board with 1.x firmware, check Configuration.h:
#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -45 // X offset: -left +right [of the nozzle]
#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -7 // Y offset: -front +behind [the nozzle]
#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -3 // Z offset: -below +above [the nozzle]
If you're running 2.x firmware, no need to recompile: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html
What about replacing the hot end that many people do?
My personal favorite and a nice drop-in replacement is the all-metal Micro Swiss hotend. I've done several videos on it here. Here's a product link: amzn.to/3dYkndP