In almost 30 years as a photographer(and even though I know this by now), no one has ever explained this topic in such simple and practical way. Kudos to you Martin! Cheers, Ray.
Martin, I'm sure my "trick" for f-stops has been thought of and utilized long before I created this for myself, but here it is for those that suck at memorization or want a "simpler" way - at least in my way of thinking. Think of f-stops in 2 separate scales - only for the sake of quick memorization. Start with 1 and double. 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32. Second scale starts with 1.4 (and that's really all you have to remember in the beginning) - and again double them, 1.4, 2.8, 5.6, 11 (sort of), 22. Now you have all the standard f-stops immediately memorized. So any time you see or need a doubling of halving of f-stop (as in your first example to blow out the background from f/4 to f/2 - since that's half or double the number - it's 2 stops period. Just counter it with doubling or halving your shutter speed (and if you have to use ISO, ISO). This makes both scales easy to remember and the fact that if you see a number double f/4 to f/8 - it's two stops. Hope that helps someone struggling with the concept. I have more such quick memorization tricks, but this is enough for now.
The look on my face when this all just came together in my brain, sitting here gobsmacked at how simple this makes things. Keen to get out this weekend for a shoot and build some muscle memory playing around with this
Eureka!. This is the FIRST video on this technique that has "baselined" its adoption, namely the desire to change an image that although reflecting a correct exposure is not quite what one wants to see in the final image, and consequently how to simply use this technique to maintain the correct exposure but see a different outcome. All other videos have highlighted and explained the concept but failed to provide an example of why/when you would apply it ...which always confused me. Brilliant.
The reason why the aperture stop increases by "1 unit" when you multiply it with the square root of two is because when you increase the radius of a circle (=aperture) by a factor of square root of two we increase the surface of it by 2. Thus, each stop of light gives us double the exposure in the photo.
Nice that the stepping of aperture and exposure times are now in sync.. I always understood that the aperture is (simplified) some diameter divided by the focal length. So the area through which light can come gets 4 times larger when we double the diameter. The 1.4 is the square root of 2 and 2.8, 5.6,11, 22 are multiples of it. ISO used to be DIN and ASA long ago, where ISO is the same as ASA and DIN is the 10*log_10(iso)+1, which is indirectly still found today, because the ISO stepping follows the sequence of the former DIN numbers. Flash spreads its light to an area that grows with the square of the distance.
Basic info that every photographer should know. I see a lot of photographers that don't know. The same comes to editing, a lot don't know what they're doing. I am glad that I have started with analog. Very intersiting to me was the flash part, Thanks a million Martin!
@@MartinCastein I always felt I was lacking some knowledge about how to intuitively calculate adjustments in manual mode across the exposure triangle. This is it. After watching the video I tried it out and it worked. Amazing. Three clicks up or down on any of the three variables equals one stop of light. It's so simple. THANK YOU. Also, the end of the video was deliving into more puzzling territory for me. I wish I had a better understanding of how to intuitively adjust for the correct exposure when using an external flash without relying on test shots or live view. Some more videos of you handling the cameras in a studio setting would be much appreciated. 🤠
ahhh, well i will do more on flash later on, didnt want to go much further with this video than that as i wanted everyone to understand its not limited to just the camera. im glad you got something out of this, ive started to notice more and more that photography isnt really being taught as much as it used to so im trying to bring some of that back a bit.
Its easy to remember full stops as follows: Start with .7 and 1 Next two are 1.4 and 2 Next two, 2.8 and 4 Keep doubling them to get next two full stops. When you get to 5.6 and 8 This is where and adjustment is made to get 11 and 16 Hope this helps.
I like "exposure values" or EV to work these exposure situations easier. Instead dealing of a specific f-stop and shutter speeds, EVs deal with an entire range of f-stops and shutter speeds at once. All of the combinations for a given EV are equivalent. So if your initial exposure was EV 4 and you need to cut light in half then move to EV 5 and pick an f-stop/shutter combo from there that best suits your situation. Like f-stops or shutter dpeeds, a change from one EV to the next higher one will cut light in half or double when moving from higher to next lower EV.
This is great news. Lately, my "focus" has been the 35mm f/2 and 28mm f/2.8 (for APS-H) and have been having a lot of fun with these constraints on the 5D, 5D II, and 1D III. So far, I've only encountered a few shots where more wide or tele would have helped.
The best thing I’ve ever learned as a photographer is Sunny 16, and I’ve always urged other photographers to do the same, often to blank expressions. This trick you mentioned about the third increment clicks is something i wasn’t really aware of factually, but maybe was aware of instinctively through muscle memory when using the Sony systems. Good tip to know for when the Canon 5D eventually arrives sometime this week.
I did chuckle to myself....Handheld at 1/50 is easy, depending on the situation, if you know how, my background is low light stuff so that is normal to me. ; ) Good video. ; )
Thank you Martin, that’s super useful and really well explained. I had no idea how this interacted, it’s really cool to know there’s method to the madness haha
Hasselblad had this sorted years ago, EV values. Certainly on my CF glass you can lock the EV on the lens so as to maintain the EV value when changing either apature or shutter, helped by the metered prism finder reading in EV. Similarly on my Profoto heads I can set in EV rather than fractions of power. I do find it a little amusing that as technology in cameras has advanced, the understanding by photographers has diminished, in part because photographers don't bother to learn the theory choosing instead to rely on the tech, and partly because the cameras don't always make it easy! As an aside, I have all my cameras set to change ISO in full stops. As this is an algorithm applied to the sensor's base ISO, the full value increments provide a cleaner result due to the way in which the RF gain is applied to the signal. For example, ISO 200 will be cleaner than ISO 160 and so on. All very subjective, but it's the way I prefer to work.
The 1/3 stop per click does not always consistently apply on all cameras, particularly on cameras classed as "entry level" like Nikon's D3XXX line (also some Canons) - these will only change ISO in full stops. Also, if you're using a lens with a mechanical aperture ring, it's usually 1/2 a stop per click (though sometimes full stop or 1/3 just at the widest end, e.g., f/1.8). Some cameras will have a menu setting to let you toggle the shutter speed increment between 1/3 and 1/2 stop mainly for that reason.
@@MartinCastein mostly, I was told that you could get fungus or hazing on lenses and cameras if it was above 70% humidity. I was getting worried about my gear. It somtimes goes over 70 here and around 66 in my house.
@@MJohnson-qp9he i think the problem is more when you there is also no ventilation, you must not leave lenses in bags etc, its better if they are on a shelf so they can have air and moisture move through, im not an expert on this subject at all though, you should message the manufacturer, usually facebook or twitter is good for that.
shoot a manual film camera for a week and you’ll have these stops memorised. modern cameras with their fractions of a stop do confuse people i think. my old olympus OM-1 has only a handful of settings you can use in a given situation.
Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but can we not just change the aperture to the desired setting, then adjust the exposure via shutterspeed or ISO until our camera's lightmeter gives us a perfect exposure? - only way this wont work is in a high dynamic range environment where we don't want to blow a bright background out, but even then I can still read the meter to be -1ev etc
this works if you keep your camera dead still, as soon as you move the camera it jumps, with the method i use, its what photographers are meant to do, you can do it faster very fast for any conditions and can use it with flash or multiple flashes and additional light sources so its scaleable in that sense too. I dont have to think to make those calculations ive done them so much its just automatic, like i just know.
I use manual with auto ISO, so am I right to assume that the camera will automatically make that exact adjustment for me, or is it not that accurate on auto ISO?
@@MartinCastein ah ok .... I think I'll stick with auto while I'm still working the Av/Tv settings out, but I do want to learn more about ISO at some point. Thank you
Anyone who has taken photos with a DSLR has experienced this which usually results in several test shots. This video eliminates the trial and error method.
its not double , its half , and reverse . Fluke of mind but for the reasons of being correct is if we increase the aperture by 1 stop , we half the shutter speed , from 1/500 to 1/1000 , 1/1000, is 0,001s while 1/500 is 0,002. , so if we go from 0,002s to 0,001 we decreased it , not increased it .
Yes you are right, Ive debated this in my mind so much but every time ive explained to people in person its just so much easier for them to actually get up and running with the way I explained it in the video so I go with that now. Id rather people actually pay attention long enough to learn it and then use it. I hope that makes sense but you are correct.
@@MartinCastein yes i know ,you are the one of the rare photographers whom i trust , ive observed and experienced much of what you have said , and i know its correct , i have a question if you dont mind , i observed a 3D pop to Canon 5D images , 12mpix images , do you think its a mater of resolution , say take Nikon D800 or other camera Canon 1Dx and such , and resizing them to same resolution , 12mpix , would the same 3D pop appear . And if you dont mind i didnt use Nikon D3 and D4, and 1dx from Canon , but i want to get a new camera , what would you recomend , i do play with colors , and i do push shadows , but i have Canon glass , it would be cheaper for me to get 1dx , then D4 . They say D4 has back iluminated buttons , i find that very nice , tho i have never needed it or needed it once or twice , still i find it real nice . But i didnt hold it in my hand so i dont know . I know you have , and since i trust you , i ask for this opinion . And i give you my small gallery to see what im shooting . Casual photos drive.google.com/drive/folders/1hEwyFuBaY62EEva-9b_6Ep-3aK3-Lpyd?usp=drive_link Art drive.google.com/drive/folders/1nUG_nswCJJuplT138I2I9-Ny0DpboWc0?usp=drive_link
Hi, this got held for review due to the external links and i dont check often for held for review posts, so sorry it took a few days to get back to you, id like to know how much canon glass you have, is it just a lens or two or is it a lot of glass. My instinct is that you will prefer the D4 because looking at your work you like to push your files a bit and the nikon will handle that much better in general. THe pop you see on the 5d classic is a 5d classic thing really, youll not quite get that elsewhere ive found.
It's a form of measurement and also derives from Painters in the 17th Century regarding composition. - ISO/Aperture/Shutter Speed, a triangle, or 3/3rds. Some Cameras though don't do 3rds increments so you need to learn more about light, the key to Photography.
In almost 30 years as a photographer(and even though I know this by now), no one has ever explained this topic in such simple and practical way. Kudos to you Martin! Cheers, Ray.
Thank you!
...and in 30 years of photography you never bothered to research 'exposure' by yourself? This is like half a page in any random photography textbook.
Martin, I'm sure my "trick" for f-stops has been thought of and utilized long before I created this for myself, but here it is for those that suck at memorization or want a "simpler" way - at least in my way of thinking. Think of f-stops in 2 separate scales - only for the sake of quick memorization. Start with 1 and double. 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32. Second scale starts with 1.4 (and that's really all you have to remember in the beginning) - and again double them, 1.4, 2.8, 5.6, 11 (sort of), 22. Now you have all the standard f-stops immediately memorized. So any time you see or need a doubling of halving of f-stop (as in your first example to blow out the background from f/4 to f/2 - since that's half or double the number - it's 2 stops period. Just counter it with doubling or halving your shutter speed (and if you have to use ISO, ISO). This makes both scales easy to remember and the fact that if you see a number double f/4 to f/8 - it's two stops. Hope that helps someone struggling with the concept. I have more such quick memorization tricks, but this is enough for now.
OMG... Just came in from working outside and sat down to watch this with a coffee. Blew my mind.. I need to watch this again with a clearer head 😂
This used to confuse me, but you have simplified things so well any new photographer would easily understand the concept. Thanks.
The look on my face when this all just came together in my brain, sitting here gobsmacked at how simple this makes things. Keen to get out this weekend for a shoot and build some muscle memory playing around with this
hahah well im glad it helped!
Eureka!. This is the FIRST video on this technique that has "baselined" its adoption, namely the desire to change an image that although reflecting a correct exposure is not quite what one wants to see in the final image, and consequently how to simply use this technique to maintain the correct exposure but see a different outcome. All other videos have highlighted and explained the concept but failed to provide an example of why/when you would apply it ...which always confused me. Brilliant.
Invaluable information. Thank you
Even though I learned all this years ago, I found this video helpful.
The reason why the aperture stop increases by "1 unit" when you multiply it with the square root of two is because when you increase the radius of a circle (=aperture) by a factor of square root of two we increase the surface of it by 2. Thus, each stop of light gives us double the exposure in the photo.
Nice that the stepping of aperture and exposure times are now in sync..
I always understood that the aperture is (simplified) some diameter divided by the focal length.
So the area through which light can come gets 4 times larger when we double the diameter.
The 1.4 is the square root of 2 and 2.8, 5.6,11, 22 are multiples of it.
ISO used to be DIN and ASA long ago, where ISO is the same as ASA and DIN is the 10*log_10(iso)+1, which is indirectly still found today, because the ISO stepping follows the sequence of the former DIN numbers.
Flash spreads its light to an area that grows with the square of the distance.
Now that is a proper RUclips tutorial. Great job Martin.
Nick, thank you, much appreciated.
Basic info that every photographer should know. I see a lot of photographers that don't know.
The same comes to editing, a lot don't know what they're doing.
I am glad that I have started with analog.
Very intersiting to me was the flash part, Thanks a million Martin!
Wow! Never heard it all explained like this before. Verrry useful. Thank you! Really interested in your workshops to learn much more. ✨
Blimey Martin , You've made something that's a pain in the **** really easy and understandable ....thanks 👍
Haha thank you glad it was useful
This is excellent! Thanks for making this video.
This is incredibly useful and concise. Thank you! 🤠
thanks, glad its useful
@@MartinCastein I always felt I was lacking some knowledge about how to intuitively calculate adjustments in manual mode across the exposure triangle. This is it. After watching the video I tried it out and it worked. Amazing. Three clicks up or down on any of the three variables equals one stop of light. It's so simple. THANK YOU. Also, the end of the video was deliving into more puzzling territory for me. I wish I had a better understanding of how to intuitively adjust for the correct exposure when using an external flash without relying on test shots or live view. Some more videos of you handling the cameras in a studio setting would be much appreciated. 🤠
ahhh, well i will do more on flash later on, didnt want to go much further with this video than that as i wanted everyone to understand its not limited to just the camera. im glad you got something out of this, ive started to notice more and more that photography isnt really being taught as much as it used to so im trying to bring some of that back a bit.
Great explanation Martin! Simple but effective. Thanks!
So grateful for this video! Thanks again Martin!
Its easy to remember full stops as follows:
Start with .7 and 1
Next two are 1.4 and 2
Next two, 2.8 and 4
Keep doubling them to get next two full stops.
When you get to 5.6 and 8
This is where and adjustment is made to get 11 and 16
Hope this helps.
I like "exposure values" or EV to work these exposure situations easier.
Instead dealing of a specific f-stop and shutter speeds, EVs deal with an entire range of f-stops and shutter speeds at once. All of the combinations for a given EV are equivalent.
So if your initial exposure was EV 4 and you need to cut light in half then move to EV 5 and pick an f-stop/shutter combo from there that best suits your situation.
Like f-stops or shutter dpeeds, a change from one EV to the next higher one will cut light in half or double when moving from higher to next lower EV.
Thank you very much, Martin. Much appreciated
thank you!
This is great news. Lately, my "focus" has been the 35mm f/2 and 28mm f/2.8 (for APS-H) and have been having a lot of fun with these constraints on the 5D, 5D II, and 1D III. So far, I've only encountered a few shots where more wide or tele would have helped.
Brilliant! Thank you, Martin.
So clear ! Thanks a lot Martin :D
Glad it was helpful!
The best thing I’ve ever learned as a photographer is Sunny 16, and I’ve always urged other photographers to do the same, often to blank expressions. This trick you mentioned about the third increment clicks is something i wasn’t really aware of factually, but maybe was aware of instinctively through muscle memory when using the Sony systems. Good tip to know for when the Canon 5D eventually arrives sometime this week.
I did chuckle to myself....Handheld at 1/50 is easy, depending on the situation, if you know how, my background is low light stuff so that is normal to me. ; ) Good video. ; )
Wow, this is awesome information. Thanks for posting.
as always, you offer thoughtful analysis. thank you for the effort and sharing. thumbs up.
Much appreciated!
Thank you, Mae
Martin. Excellent tutorial!❤
Great video! I do use the exposure triangle. Took some practice, but is easy now. Good news! I finally found a nice 5D mkii, it arrives tomorrow!
ohhhhhh nice!!!!! hope you will like it!!!
Thank you Martin, that’s super useful and really well explained. I had no idea how this interacted, it’s really cool to know there’s method to the madness haha
Hasselblad had this sorted years ago, EV values. Certainly on my CF glass you can lock the EV on the lens so as to maintain the EV value when changing either apature or shutter, helped by the metered prism finder reading in EV. Similarly on my Profoto heads I can set in EV rather than fractions of power. I do find it a little amusing that as technology in cameras has advanced, the understanding by photographers has diminished, in part because photographers don't bother to learn the theory choosing instead to rely on the tech, and partly because the cameras don't always make it easy!
As an aside, I have all my cameras set to change ISO in full stops. As this is an algorithm applied to the sensor's base ISO, the full value increments provide a cleaner result due to the way in which the RF gain is applied to the signal. For example, ISO 200 will be cleaner than ISO 160 and so on.
All very subjective, but it's the way I prefer to work.
Thanks!
Thank you very much Mark!
Thanks
🙏 thank you !
The 1/3 stop per click does not always consistently apply on all cameras, particularly on cameras classed as "entry level" like Nikon's D3XXX line (also some Canons) - these will only change ISO in full stops. Also, if you're using a lens with a mechanical aperture ring, it's usually 1/2 a stop per click (though sometimes full stop or 1/3 just at the widest end, e.g., f/1.8). Some cameras will have a menu setting to let you toggle the shutter speed increment between 1/3 and 1/2 stop mainly for that reason.
Regarding the flash exposure, this means I'm at an advantage with my third-party radio transmitter that doesn't transfer TTL information.
youll probably be fine with that, i dont see why not.
Thanks Martin, you are so helpful. I get concerned about humidity and cameras and lenses. Could you share your thoughts on this?
i think it depends on the context, what are you worried about under what circumstances?
@@MartinCastein mostly, I was told that you could get fungus or hazing on lenses and cameras if it was above 70% humidity. I was getting worried about my gear. It somtimes goes over 70 here and around 66 in my house.
@@MJohnson-qp9he i think the problem is more when you there is also no ventilation, you must not leave lenses in bags etc, its better if they are on a shelf so they can have air and moisture move through, im not an expert on this subject at all though, you should message the manufacturer, usually facebook or twitter is good for that.
@@MartinCastein thank you!
shoot a manual film camera for a week and you’ll have these stops memorised. modern cameras with their fractions of a stop do confuse people i think. my old olympus OM-1 has only a handful of settings you can use in a given situation.
Is this methodology the same for mirrorless cameras?
Yes it is
Or shoot in Aperture priority mode?
sometimes, depends what is happening around you. In my example id always choose manual mode.
Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but can we not just change the aperture to the desired setting, then adjust the exposure via shutterspeed or ISO until our camera's lightmeter gives us a perfect exposure? - only way this wont work is in a high dynamic range environment where we don't want to blow a bright background out, but even then I can still read the meter to be -1ev etc
this works if you keep your camera dead still, as soon as you move the camera it jumps, with the method i use, its what photographers are meant to do, you can do it faster very fast for any conditions and can use it with flash or multiple flashes and additional light sources so its scaleable in that sense too. I dont have to think to make those calculations ive done them so much its just automatic, like i just know.
So the method you described only applies to digital cameras and not film cameras?
It applies to light, the camera doesn't matter, but some Cameras don't do 3rd increments, so you need to dig deeper. : )
I use manual with auto ISO, so am I right to assume that the camera will automatically make that exact adjustment for me, or is it not that accurate on auto ISO?
I’d say it’s right often but not always. The problem shooting auto mode is if anything dark or light then appears in the background.
@@MartinCastein ah ok .... I think I'll stick with auto while I'm still working the Av/Tv settings out, but I do want to learn more about ISO at some point. Thank you
Anyone who has taken photos with a DSLR has experienced this which usually results in several test shots. This video eliminates the trial and error method.
thanks H!!!!
its not double , its half , and reverse . Fluke of mind but for the reasons of being correct is if we increase the aperture by 1 stop , we half the shutter speed , from 1/500 to 1/1000 , 1/1000, is 0,001s while 1/500 is 0,002. , so if we go from 0,002s to 0,001 we decreased it , not increased it .
Yes you are right, Ive debated this in my mind so much but every time ive explained to people in person its just so much easier for them to actually get up and running with the way I explained it in the video so I go with that now. Id rather people actually pay attention long enough to learn it and then use it. I hope that makes sense but you are correct.
@@MartinCastein yes i know ,you are the one of the rare photographers whom i trust , ive observed and experienced much of what you have said , and i know its correct , i have a question if you dont mind , i observed a 3D pop to Canon 5D images , 12mpix images , do you think its a mater of resolution , say take Nikon D800 or other camera Canon 1Dx and such , and resizing them to same resolution , 12mpix , would the same 3D pop appear . And if you dont mind i didnt use Nikon D3 and D4, and 1dx from Canon , but i want to get a new camera , what would you recomend , i do play with colors , and i do push shadows , but i have Canon glass , it would be cheaper for me to get 1dx , then D4 . They say D4 has back iluminated buttons , i find that very nice , tho i have never needed it or needed it once or twice , still i find it real nice . But i didnt hold it in my hand so i dont know . I know you have , and since i trust you , i ask for this opinion .
And i give you my small gallery to see what im shooting .
Casual photos drive.google.com/drive/folders/1hEwyFuBaY62EEva-9b_6Ep-3aK3-Lpyd?usp=drive_link
Art drive.google.com/drive/folders/1nUG_nswCJJuplT138I2I9-Ny0DpboWc0?usp=drive_link
Hi, this got held for review due to the external links and i dont check often for held for review posts, so sorry it took a few days to get back to you, id like to know how much canon glass you have, is it just a lens or two or is it a lot of glass. My instinct is that you will prefer the D4 because looking at your work you like to push your files a bit and the nikon will handle that much better in general. THe pop you see on the 5d classic is a 5d classic thing really, youll not quite get that elsewhere ive found.
@@MartinCastein Not a lot of important glass , nifty fifty and 24-135 is all i use , and need 99% of time . I will consider your input thanks a lot .
I don't get it. What about 3.5 & 1.8??
Why can't you just use the lightmeter?
I'd just turn the shutter speed wheel six clicks.
it feels like everything in photography uses some kind of rule of third
It's a form of measurement and also derives from Painters in the 17th Century regarding composition. - ISO/Aperture/Shutter Speed, a triangle, or 3/3rds. Some Cameras though don't do 3rds increments so you need to learn more about light, the key to Photography.
Marciano haha yes does feel like that!
Or you buy mirrorless and That’s is 😂
Thanks
Thank you!!!!!!!