Bravo on three levels Martin. 1. No banner, intro, outro, tricky “look I’m a professional broadcast organization hear to pump up the energy” bs. I am already pumped thanks or I would not have clicked and stayed. 2. Clean explanations. Tricky business. But. Look at you go. You are keeping in mind what I am looking at in camera and my situation. Nice job keeping track and then creating an explanation that accounts for the variables. 3. Clean distinction between the technical and the artistic. I cant say enough about how important this is to me. Kudos
Martin, what a great tutorial, I really like your style of delivering details, simple, informative and not confusing. I shot with an old cannon 5d mk3 so your videos are really useful. I’ve subscribed, and will be working through your back catalogue, and look forward to new videos
I would love for you to do a “Part 2” of this video! Use that photo on the monitor behind you (or one similar to it) and show your camera histograms for each exposure.
Thanks for a great explanation, especially tying bracketing to the histogram. Having come from film use, I totally agree that it’s nice to go totally manual and just rely on the camera light meter for an indication.
Great tips, I’m going to experiment with this. Was wondering if you could do a video giving any advice on how to be more unique with local landscapes. For example, I feel like theres about 100 photographers in my local area all taking pictures of the exact same things and it’s starting to put me off going out because I don’t feel like there’s anything new to discover - and even if I did, someone else will just take the same photos next week, and then the rest will copy. What would you suggest?
Sounds like a great technique. I'm off to Snowdonia in a couple of days and will try this out. Please could you advise whether taking a photo every one stop in the sequence would result in better tonal gradation and thus a better final merged file, or whether one photo every two stops is always enough? I just don't know enough about how the final file is created by post processing software...thanks, grateful as ever for your insights.
Hi! Two stops is fine generally speaking although the more photos you take fewer stops apart the better the gradations but I really think 2 stops is the best balance, 3 stops can be trouble
Great explanation but a real world example showing the process on your camera as your shooting would make it even better… showing is always better then telling 😊
About the in-camera histogram, given the fact that it shows the histogram of the selected JPEG "picture style", not the actual RAW: how do you deal with this, Martin? Any tips or suggestions?
M.C. I’m confused. You have a photo with people in it behind you on a monitor. So can this bracketing method be used with people? Or is it really for static subjects such as landscape, architecture, etc? Thanks. Answers on a postcard to the usual address please.
hahaha this is for static scenes but there are ways to do it with people as well even if they are moving, thats a different video maybe though...hope this reaches you at the usual address.
Even with people (at a distance - like the scene behind), the various exposures will succeed each other quite rapidly so the scene will not change much. You should be able to paint into the scene from layers including better exposed highlight & shadow areas (from the other frames in the bracket.)
@@Cotictimmy: Thank you for that. I certainly couldn’t be classed as a image manipulation guru so I’ll have to research the image layer painting, etc. And if Kodak’s pricing is forcing me into more digital photography, a lot more screen time might be a good idea.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Bravo on three levels Martin. 1. No banner, intro, outro, tricky “look I’m a professional broadcast organization hear to pump up the energy” bs. I am already pumped thanks or I would not have clicked and stayed.
2. Clean explanations. Tricky business. But. Look at you go. You are keeping in mind what I am looking at in camera and my situation. Nice job keeping track and then creating an explanation that accounts for the variables.
3. Clean distinction between the technical and the artistic. I cant say enough about how important this is to me.
Kudos
Best photo show on RUclips...thanks
Wow, thanks!
Martin, what a great tutorial, I really like your style of delivering details, simple, informative and not confusing. I shot with an old cannon 5d mk3 so your videos are really useful. I’ve subscribed, and will be working through your back catalogue, and look forward to new videos
Great explanation of bracketing.
Just came across your channel and enjoy your insights. Keep up the good work!
Thanks Martin, I like the approach you are explaining. As always your videos are phenomenal.
I would love for you to do a “Part 2” of this video! Use that photo on the monitor behind you (or one similar to it) and show your camera histograms for each exposure.
Good explanation my friend. I love these videos
Martin, you are wonderful at this. Thank you for all your help.
am I? thank you, i dont feel like i am at all but thank you!
@@MartinCastein My son (11) tells me that you speak with as much passion about photography as I do about music 🙂 That's a lot.
I use magic lantern and it has been a big help for this approach for me.
Ohhhh... thank you... going to try it out. This will be interesting
Thank you! This is the same approach I use to bracket my shots.
I ventured in to bracketing last year. I have taken some great photos, that could have never been shot with just one exposure.
People used to over do it and call it artistic with those plastic colours of the HDR boom era. 😅 Oh and your audio is better! 😊 Cheers
I actually liked that look for a bit you know 🤣
Only way to go, well done, thank you.
Thanks for a great explanation, especially tying bracketing to the histogram. Having come from film use, I totally agree that it’s nice to go totally manual and just rely on the camera light meter for an indication.
Great explanation of this process. Thank you!
Thanks!
Now just hold on a second: we were promised the next video would be a "hyperactive sony campaign video". 😁
Great video, as always, Martin. Thanks!
hahahhaa oh yes sorry, maybe the next one....
Great tips, I’m going to experiment with this. Was wondering if you could do a video giving any advice on how to be more unique with local landscapes. For example, I feel like theres about 100 photographers in my local area all taking pictures of the exact same things and it’s starting to put me off going out because I don’t feel like there’s anything new to discover - and even if I did, someone else will just take the same photos next week, and then the rest will copy. What would you suggest?
Sounds like a great technique. I'm off to Snowdonia in a couple of days and will try this out. Please could you advise whether taking a photo every one stop in the sequence would result in better tonal gradation and thus a better final merged file, or whether one photo every two stops is always enough? I just don't know enough about how the final file is created by post processing software...thanks, grateful as ever for your insights.
Hi! Two stops is fine generally speaking although the more photos you take fewer stops apart the better the gradations but I really think 2 stops is the best balance, 3 stops can be trouble
Great explanation but a real world example showing the process on your camera as your shooting would make it even better… showing is always better then telling 😊
Very good Martin! Even a dummy like myself can understand your explanations.
Still got the BLUES though. You too?
Oh definitely……
About the in-camera histogram, given the fact that it shows the histogram of the selected JPEG "picture style", not the actual RAW: how do you deal with this, Martin? Any tips or suggestions?
i use a neutral profile with the contrast at minimum.
@@MartinCastein Will do, thanks!
M.C. I’m confused. You have a photo with people in it behind you on a monitor. So can this bracketing method be used with people? Or is it really for static subjects such as landscape, architecture, etc? Thanks. Answers on a postcard to the usual address please.
hahaha this is for static scenes but there are ways to do it with people as well even if they are moving, thats a different video maybe though...hope this reaches you at the usual address.
Even with people (at a distance - like the scene behind), the various exposures will succeed each other quite rapidly so the scene will not change much. You should be able to paint into the scene from layers including better exposed highlight & shadow areas (from the other frames in the bracket.)
@@Cotictimmy: Thank you for that. I certainly couldn’t be classed as a image manipulation guru so I’ll have to research the image layer painting, etc. And if Kodak’s pricing is forcing me into more digital photography, a lot more screen time might be a good idea.
@@DessieTots I have WAY too much screen time myself. Best Wishes to you. 🤣
Thanks!