New Ware 1/96 Upgrade set for the Saturn V kit from Revell.
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- Опубликовано: 20 авг 2024
- A VERY in depth look into a VERY complete upgrade set for the 1/96 saturn V kit from Revell. Go make a drink, sit back and enjoy.. this is a BIG review of a BIG upgrade set
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A brief word of warning to anyone building the Revell 1/96 Saturn V: When you roll the flat pieces of plastic to form the tubes between the end pieces of SI, SII & SIVB, check the fit on the end pieces before applying any cement! I started one of these kits years ago (I never finished it and most of it got lost when I moved house), and I found that the tubes were just slightly too small in diameter to fit onto the end pieces easily. I tried sanding the excess off the end pieces, but it was a lot of work. What I'd suggest is trying it for fit first, and if necessary, enlarging the holes in one end of the flat piece to give a bit of wiggle room before you put cement anywhere near the parts. This will save much grief! I hope this is useful.
I've just tried doing what I suggested and it's not as straightforward as I hoped. Without cement, it's difficult to hold things together and try to fit the tubes to the end pieces. What I'm going to do instead is elongate the holes in the flat parts that form the tubes and try to keep the cement away from these holes. With a bit of luck, it should be possible to fit everything together and adjust as necessary afterwards. Also, my kit is the 1994 25th anniversary version- the part numbers in the rather sketchy instructions don't always match the part numbers on the sprues! Revell up to their usual tricks! Fortunately, the instructions for the 50th anniversary edition seem to be much, much clearer so I hope the newer version doesn't have this extra complication.
I've successfully added the first tube to an end piece! Making the holes longer definitely seems to work, but try the parts for fit before applying cement. Another point to watch is when joining the plate with the Stage I engines to the lowermost styrene ring (in my 1994 kit, these are parts 7 & 9). There are two small locating pins at the bottom of the ring, which have to go into two holes in the engine plate. If you don't do this, the rest of the rocket won't line up correctly. My instructions don't point this out very well and I had to take the two pieces apart to correct my mistake.
What I'm planning to do if possible is to cut the RealSpace CSM into separate Command Module and Service Modules. I hope to fit the kit heat shield to the back of the Command Module, and fit the kit forward bulkhead of the Service Module into a recess cut into the resin replacement part. I'm hoping this can be done with a lathe, but I'm not sure if the resin part can be modified in such a way- I have access to an engineer so I'll seek his advice. If it works, it would be exactly what I want.
Having completed Stage I, I've discovered something that other modellers might like to bear in mind. The flat pieces that roll into tubes are quite translucent and if placed close to a light source can appear to glow. This could be a problem, depending on where the completed model is to be put and the lighting conditions around it. Perhaps it might be worth thinking about giving the inside surfaces of these parts a coat of black paint to prevent this.
The next issue to be aware of is that the printed flat piece of Stage II is incorrect- it has the red 'United States' lining up with the flag & USA on Stage I. They should actually line up with the centre of the vertical black sections. I thought I could get away with using that piece with the printing on the inside and applying the aftermarket decals, but the inside face isn't white and the lettering shows through anyway, so whichever side I use, it has to be painted white. The same will apply to the S IV B, as this had no red writing on it. Another slight problem is that when putting the J2 engines together, there will be seam lines and the fit of the additional pipework is somewhat approximate! My opinion of Revell kits from the late 60s has gone down a bit more, but like the 1/48 Apollo spacecraft kit, only Revell produce models in these scales. The good news is that the flat piece of Stage II seems to fit onto the end sections without too much hassle. I've found the aftermarket decal instructions very helpful, and an excellent reference source for Apollo 11 is
www.amazon.co.uk/Picturing-Apollo-Pickering-author-Bisney/dp/0813056179/ref=sr_1_1?crid=I0345E5BXED2&keywords=picturing+apollo+11&qid=1559631767&s=books&sprefix=picturing%2Caps%2C181&sr=1-1
Well worth £25.
I also recommend painting the styrene stage tank skin tubes white and applying the decals. This will hide the 'translucent' look. As well, the tank skins will 'yellow' after a few years and it will be very noticeable. (For the SI-C fuel tank skin, you also need to paint the black stripes. careful masking will give razor sharp lines. )
The more I watch, the more expert I see you are. That 144 scale Saturn is a gem. Never occured to me that seam cracking came from dissimilar materials. Of course it does! If you "weld" a seam with the same stuff it is made from, it no longer exists. You can not wreck it and it will never split. I built the 96 Scale Saturn when I was like 6 years old. I make 'em from paper now but I really look forward to seeing you do that 96 scale Saturn stack.
Nigel,
Nice review. A few notes on the New Ware instructions that you were uncertain about. On the decal instructions, where you see the I, II, III, and IIII markings, those refer to the positions around the rocket. You get one each of those decals that go on the first stage and they identify the positions for the whole rocket. Position I runs from the base of the rocket up through the command module hatch window. Position II is 90 degrees to the right of Position I. Position III is opposite from Position I and Position IIII is 90 degrees to the right of Position III. The position marks on the instructions are meant to show the line of that position so you know where around the rocket to place your decals.
I'm not sure if you noticed or not, but on the PE/Resin instructions all the drawings are showing the C line on the rocket. The C refers to the C fin. The C fin is the fin between Position III and Position IIII. Therefore the A fin is the fin between Position I and Position II.
As for the ullage motors on the S-IC to S-II interstage, you are correct. There were 8 on Apollo 4 and 6. Four on Apollo 8 through 14 and none on Apollo 15 through 17. So no manned flights ever had 8 motors. The bumps on the conical S-II to S-IVB interstage are the covers for staging retro rockets. As a bit of further information, there were staging retro rockets in the first stage as well. They were hidden inside the fairings at the base of the first stage. The purpose of the staging retro rockets was to keep the stages from bumping into each other at staging when the explosive bolts holding the stages together were fired.
The New Ware upgrade set is amazing and I'll bet getting one when I build my own 1/96 scale Saturn V. I have the upgrade set for the 1/144 Saturn V and it is amazing as well. Both are well worth the money if you are trying to build an accurate model of a Saturn V.
Hi Nigel getting back into modeling after 40 plus years ,the new materials that are available are so different to yester year. expat in New Zealand and get to see your videos as they are downloaded , and look forward daily to whats coming next
That bottom piece is the heat shield. The S-IV is called that because it was originally designed as the fourth stage of the never produced Saturn C-4. When the Saturn C-5 was designed as a three stage rocket, they used that piece as the third stage but modified slightly and named it S-IV-b
Just a quick observation on using resin parts. You may have mentioned this in your review and if so I apologize,but it would be good to mention when sanding or sawing resin parts from the spruce it is a good idea to wear a dust mask as the fine residue produced by sawing and sanding can be harmful if you breathe in the dust. Also when sanding use a wet/dry sandpaper to minimize the airborne particles and work where you have good ventilation. Love the review as always. Looking forward to seeing you build this one.
Thanks for your input Allen. You are 100% correct sir. I always use a mask and / or use wet abrasives on Resin. I'm not sure why the resin is so harmful, as opposed to plastic, but it is. I will cover this in upcoming builds using resin parts.
The flags on the large sheet - the blue is way too bright. They probably included the smaller sheet as a replacement.
Hi Nigel, I am amazed at the amount of money we can spend on 'update' or 'detail' kits. I do exactly the same :( I thought you might be interested in my find today when going through some old Airfix Magazines. I happened upon the October 1969 edition, which has a full page of the 'new' Revell kits including the Apollo V which 'stands nearly four feet tall!'. Price at that time £8, 5s!! £8.25 in new money. This was a lot of money at that time! Good luck with your build.
Meant to put Apollo Saturn V
I'm very tempted by your thorough (as always!) review, but having had very little experience with resin and PE, I feel buying the whole set could well be an expensive mistake. I have, however, decided to get the 1/96 CSM PE set, the 1/96 Saturn V decals and the 1/48 LM detail set which includes the RCS deflectors- missing from most kits produced in the late 60s because they were a late addition to Apollo 11 and subsequent flights. I'd like to keep the 1/96 Command and Service modules separate (for those 'And this is the part that comes back to Earth' moments), so some doctoring of the realspace resin parts may be necessary- I'll wait and see when I've received everything before I decide what to do.
Now I just need to decide if I wait for your videos of the build before I dive into my own construction!
I'm keen on making my model faithful but I'm not an experienced modeller plus the new ware kit comes at other 130 us dollars which is not an insignificant amount of money. I wonder if there is any way to upgrade the model without having to spend that money.
@@ee1ec1982 It would be possible to build an accurate model without the new ware replacements, but it would involve a lot of scratchbuilding- perhaps not ideal if you're not an experienced modeller. I built my model with only the Block 2 CSM and accepted the fact that there were some inaccuracies in the main body of the rocket- it will ultimately depend on how much you want to spend against how much you want absolute accuracy.
Once it's built it's very impressive thing, and most people seeing it will not know that parts of it aren't quite correct. I can live with that.
By the way... I love the Revell 96 Saturn V, as-is... Mainly because it was virtually an obvious lifting of the famous George C. Marshall Spaceflight Center's Saturn V "Contractors Model" design... Which, in and of itself, is now a prized (and expensive) artifact, direct from the Apollo Program... So what we're seeing with Revell's 96... is a wonderful and accurate homage to that contractor's model... complete with all of its early designs... even including an exacting, same designed display stand...
So, I do not call my vintage 1960s Revell Saturn V 96 a "model" at all... Rather, a dutiful "replica" of Marshall's historic contractor's model.
This was the model utilized by all 1960s NASA Public Affairs events, astronauts, broadcasters and was in offices of all Apollo contractors, NASA top officials, including Wernher Von Braun, himself... who is often seen with the model when giving talks about it.
So, that's my 1960s vintage Revell Saturn V 96... A replica of a very historic model... I've minimized attempts to alter it to comply with actual Saturn V's... complete with its original obsolete markings and lack of detail and accuracy. I find that it brings a much more potent sense of connection to the Apollo Program than a dutiful, new, yet accurate model.
www.nasa.gov/centers/marshall/images/content/118708main_SaturnV_1960x3008.jpg
I noticed one of the holes in the bottom base is off centred
Think I'll write Tom a postcard. :)
Great information, Nigel! Thank you! Do you have a video of the build? I seem to remember a video of a build using the Revell 1/96 kit + RealSpace replacements + New Ware replacements/additions, etc. Was that your video? Thanks for the help on this. Again, great videos, really informative.
Not yet!
@@NigelsModellingBench "Yet" sounds encouraging ;^) Looking forward to it! Btw, do you have a video in which you discuss the paints and how best to apply them? especially on the resin material from Realspace and New Ware. If not, Do you know where I might get some guidance on that? Thanks again.
What is the easiest way to remove the resin parts from the moldings? Not really sure how to do that effectively. Any help would be appreciated. It seems so dense and strong. I have the New Ware kit for the Airfix. Your review is helpful. Thankyou.
You need a good modelling saw, a mask, water and lots of care. You must not breathe in the dust.
@@NigelsModellingBench Thanks Nigel. You are an amazing modeler. Are you going to show how you used the New Ware details in future?
@@atoadinthehole if I ever build it, yes.
Great. Informative...!
You make mention of the L.U.T. Where/How does one get one of THOSE...??
You can get excellent LUT models from Thomas Maier, who makes the LUT and Crawler as heavy craft paper kits. Quite a serious and complex build, but it looks great. (Google it!)
Nice vid,the pictures on the website werent that good.Tempting,not interested in subject,so what! That upgrade set demands attention.
Stage 1 or S1-C thrust structure.
Why do they have that as Stage 4 instead of Stage III?
Hi Nigel, any idea when you might be making a start on this behemoth?
I "may" build it this year starting April 11th as I was at the launch of Apollo 13 and nearly died on the afternoon after the launch.
Can't wait - intrigued about the launch/post launch story as well.