You and Kevin are the only two detailers I care to take serious as professionals. You leave the conspiracy and drama behind and back your theory with practice. The others just seem to want to stir the pot and beat the same tired comparison tests to death.
Every car is different. Find the right combination of pad, product, pressure, and speed by letting the paint tell you what is working. Once you figure that out, be consistent with your chosen combo. Consistency is the entire point of the video.
On the back of the bottle of M205: Speed 4-5 Moderate pressure for initial passes, light pressure for the last two. The chemists know what they're doing too.
I’m super grateful for this channel. I’m 35, and I’ve worked hard and bought a home on Maui and the car I’ve dreamed about since high school.Growing up, my parents were broke. We lived in a bus for a while so I really appreciate what I’ve earned. Like a lot of us, my car is my pride and joy. I take great care in maintaining and cleaning it and I’m so grateful for the knowledge you pass down to enthusiast like me! So many professionals keep their techniques secret so thank you for passing this on so that we can all enjoy our passion for cars to the fullest. And/or take our business to the highest level possible. Thank you for being such a great teacher and being so generous with your knowledge!🤙
So first of all I am detailing my car right now and just heard this. And I absolutely get the logic behind what Kevin brown is saying. Guys please keep up the amazing work, I have learned alot from you both. Larry thanks for the amazing products. Now back to polishing.
Right?! Totally busted that myth wide open; I'm convinced bc they said so. Hell no, I do lighten up when sanding something, much like when I ease off the pressure applied to a sharpening stone with my knife. I definitely see better results in every abrasion scenario when I take pressure off at the end. There's even multiple manufacturers who suggest to do this right on the bottle of their compound/polish! Oh, but these douches know better than the folks who created the products they use..
ArmandoXIII 🤔😂🤣🤣😂😆 Did you really just post that publicly? Or maybe you're just trying to rouse me, Idk. But the companies who make the stuff probably put more time towards testing them than these two have even been alive, let alone used them.
@Gage Pine and you obviously DON'T realize that the products they use and TRUST are by companies who have been perfecting their merchandise for longer than these guys have been able to drive. Scientists (you know; mf's with PhD's) spend countless hours improving their products and continuously have them ran through tests in order to find the next slightest improvent that can be made. Also, these mf's in the video, their MAIN point about it being a myth; that the products are engineered to such amazing standards that provide consistent results, thus pressure changes aren't necessary. That means nothing was "myth-busted," as they simply stated opinions over the matter. It also means that their reasoning for saying it's a myth, is because the COUNTLESS hours that are put in to testing the products in order to engineer them to the highest degrees. In other words, the two you say are putting in way more hours, are looking up to the manufacturers in order to know what to use. If the endless hours weren't exerted towards making these amazing products, these two would likely be detailing with mops and dish soap; because unlike the manufacturers who know way more about their respective fields in all areas involved, these two would be lost on the way to their mailboxes without a nice beaten down path to follow, and will never have any original thoughts that add any sort of value. That is all..
@@danapolchowski4220 first scientists do not spend their time improving a product, it's engineers who do, even then, the manufacturer won't know better on how to apply the product than a field expert, the manufacturer HIRES field experts to test the products because their experience is what is needed to make further improvements.
I sorta think it comes from old school rotary polisher practices because they are so brutal, like cranking out auction cars or some obscene quick shine process like that? Maybe give a light pass to knock the deep swirls down a little? I learned in a Dewalt rotary in the 90’s but had the luxury of using a dual 3” orbital polisher to finish out a vehicle. It was a very nice dealership with an eye for detail. Carpet extractors, wash bays, full product selection.
I was polishing my car the other day and I think on the Menzerna bottle, it says something like decrease pad pressure when the haze starts to disappear. I think this method works with diminishing polish like PO85RD. But on Meguiar's and Rupes non-diminishing polish, it is not required.
But if i were to use a sandpaper and apply more pressure during sanding, it does remove more clear....but why does it not reduce/refine if we applied less pressure? Seeking clarification
Diminishing returns, your sand paper will clog faster, uneven sanding with higher pressure vs even firm pressure that'll not clog nearly as fast and require less sand paper changes.
I haven’t seen a boat on here yet Larry, one with decent oxidation like a 2006 Correct Craft Air Nautique SV-211 maybe one that’s Dark Blue and White and parked at MCAS Miramar??
Hey I'm new to this detailing stuff and everything, but I always had the same question (it may be dumb 'cause I've never done this before), does all the polishing work just get washed over when you need to wash the car again? Like you need to polish the car everytime you wash it?
@@dillanmistry you must have corrected your sentence. You stated Larry gave you the confidence to work on your cat. Sorry Dillan, I couldn’t help myself lol!!
No joke Larry is the reason I just did my first compound pass on my Forester it caught everyone's eye on it's polished drive, I'm good with that thanks... as long as it's not the police, I'm kidding :D
Larry I have seen a bunch of steam clean the exterior of your vehicle videos and comments and was interested on your thoughts about how it would affect the paint and wax. Love your videos.
Today's tech has eliminated this process, right along with painters that still demand to wetsand for paint prep. Die hards of old industry standards just refuse to change. Great video and explanation as always.
Great presentations , could you please tell me using a medium cutting compound with DA followed with a polish on a G63 Mercedes , how many microns of clear coat does one remove .
There is no "best" each paint correction for each car is different. You need to read the paint and that will determine what speed and pressure works best for that particular paint.
Larry, what about speed here? I know this is also a factor which needs to be dialled in. Can you give me a reply on this please? I use a Das 6 Pro and set it at speed 4 and it gets results but I am not 100% sure is that ok, should it be lower when cutting or higher speed and higher when on polishing set (for eg in a 1 step?) Thanks for your reply. Declan
I am about to polish my first car and have learned a huge amount from your channel *big thanks*. But one question that remain and I cant find anywhere is gloss lvl and what "it give in shine". If a have a polish that do 3/6 cutting (no problem understanding) and 5/6 gloss, how good is that when i look at it. Do i need to finish with something that is 6/6 like sonax perfect finish. With other words, can a non master like me (read stupid ;) ) see the difference?
Propably not. You can test it out by polishing for example half of the bonnet with a pair that leaves basically no marring and scratches behind (rough combo enough to get rid of wanted amount of marring etc) and then test another 50/50 area does it make it more shiny with finishing pad/compound. I couldn't notice a difference with koch chemies 5/6 cut and 3/6 gloss compared to 1/6 cut and 6/6 gloss by using a middle cut foam pad. Did a 50/50 with both aside and same result. No haze anymore after cutting the scratches away before, and same gloss on sunlight..
ruclips.net/video/6tepA3wjPbY/видео.html for example watch this. Here you can definitely see the haze of the aggressive compound and pad and a huge difference after finishing pad and compound. You just need to find a like 1 step combo for you and your technique where u cut enough stuff away and make it shine like after finishing compound. But for me, I wont notice a difference between 4/6 gloss and 6/6 gloss with finishing pad...
Hey I'm new to this detailing stuff and everything, but I always had the same question (it may be dumb 'cause I've never done this before), does all the polishing work just get washed over when you need to wash the car again? Like you need to polish the car everytime you wash it?
i polished front of my car with 3m compound and rotary polisher it has shine but i see scratches from pad on sun.What is reason for this?can it be too agressive pad?
@@jeremiah1178 its pad that was on machine when i bought it.Its foam pad i dont know even for what it is.I think i didnt do anything wrong with machine i tested it many times with different speeds more/less compound results are same
@@bobanppvc pads have different characteristics, some are more aggressive than others. Pads are a part of the over all equation, and knowing what pads you have and their uses is just as important. Also not trying to be rude, but I'd highly suggest getting a da machine if you dont have much experience. Which I'd assume is true. Less chances of ruining your paint. But keep up the willingness to learn. Check out Larry's videos, and some other retailers videos. Knowledge is the key to success in this art.
@@jeremiah1178 Definitely. DA's are much safer. In my opinion rotarys are best for paint correction. DA's are great but have their place. For instance, you won't find a DA in a body shop. You shouldn't be using a rotary with compound to just get a shine. If it is a yellow pad then it's a medium cut pad. 3M makes an amazing machine polish that you should pair with a black foam polishing pad and follow the instructions for speeds etc. PS. On that bottle it will probably say to lessen pressure and speed on final pass. lol ... If you just want to polish and shine your ride then get a griots da from autozone or advanced auto and use an All In One Polish..
With polishing, you dont want to move that machine so fast. Polishing should be done one a slower speed for most car finishes. If you buffed properly, then slower speed for any surface.
I hope this is true because a lot of products that are out there which will remain nameless, say just that on the directions such as on final pass use light pressure🤷🏼♂️
Great video you two are amazing and would be so much fun just to watch the entire process from start to finish with all the talking....neither should stop or talk less
Well the discussion in the video didn't answer the question in the title of the video. I think you over thought the useless question about lifting off during the last path. I don't know what kind of pads you're using, they look way too thin, and sounds like you've got the buffer way too fast. But, if it works for you, all good I suppose. I never get mine above the lowest setting, EVER. I use a Makita, the lowest speed is 600RPM, supposedly. That's according to the spec sheet. No matter what brand I use, high speeds just burn in those awful holograms. I use the thick 1"plus pads, the orange, blue, white etc all the way to the fine black colored pad. 3M for marine applications and Meguair's mirror glaze professional products for automotive. It's worked for me since the late 1980's. Only thing that's changed is the products keep getting better, I don't think the paint has changed much, not on American cars anyway, it's inferior to the likes of German and Japanese. Especially GM paint. It's garbage. Just like their automobiles.
I just watched an entire video by you two about not lightening up at the end and here you state that you are getting ready to finish and you lighten up. ??? I wonder where the rumor got started.
would you sand with 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, and then lighten up again on the last with 2500? surely not....lol c'mon guys it's the same concept with lightening up pressure on last pass. maybe not necessary, but not detrimental either.
You and Kevin are the only two detailers I care to take serious as professionals. You leave the conspiracy and drama behind and back your theory with practice. The others just seem to want to stir the pot and beat the same tired comparison tests to death.
Esoteric is awesome too
so ..... how much pressure and speed?
Every car is different. Find the right combination of pad, product, pressure, and speed by letting the paint tell you what is working. Once you figure that out, be consistent with your chosen combo. Consistency is the entire point of the video.
On the back of the bottle of M205:
Speed 4-5
Moderate pressure for initial passes, light pressure for the last two.
The chemists know what they're doing too.
I’m super grateful for this channel. I’m 35, and I’ve worked hard and bought a home on Maui and the car I’ve dreamed about since high school.Growing up, my parents were broke. We lived in a bus for a while so I really appreciate what I’ve earned. Like a lot of us, my car is my pride and joy. I take great care in maintaining and cleaning it and I’m so grateful for the knowledge you pass down to enthusiast like me! So many professionals keep their techniques secret so thank you for passing this on so that we can all enjoy our passion for cars to the fullest. And/or take our business to the highest level possible. Thank you for being such a great teacher and being so generous with your knowledge!🤙
Just curious....what car did you buy? And Maui No Ka Oi!
So first of all I am detailing my car right now and just heard this. And I absolutely get the logic behind what Kevin brown is saying. Guys please keep up the amazing work, I have learned alot from you both. Larry thanks for the amazing products. Now back to polishing.
Short and straight to the point I like what he said at the end "now let's get back to work"
Whole video:
"Hey, is the myth true that you should lighten your pressure on the final pass when buffing?"
"No."
Right?! Totally busted that myth wide open; I'm convinced bc they said so. Hell no, I do lighten up when sanding something, much like when I ease off the pressure applied to a sharpening stone with my knife. I definitely see better results in every abrasion scenario when I take pressure off at the end. There's even multiple manufacturers who suggest to do this right on the bottle of their compound/polish! Oh, but these douches know better than the folks who created the products they use..
@@danapolchowski4220 they do, because they use the product far more often that the people who create it.
ArmandoXIII 🤔😂🤣🤣😂😆
Did you really just post that publicly? Or maybe you're just trying to rouse me, Idk. But the companies who make the stuff probably put more time towards testing them than these two have even been alive, let alone used them.
@Gage Pine and you obviously DON'T realize that the products they use and TRUST are by companies who have been perfecting their merchandise for longer than these guys have been able to drive. Scientists (you know; mf's with PhD's) spend countless hours improving their products and continuously have them ran through tests in order to find the next slightest improvent that can be made. Also, these mf's in the video, their MAIN point about it being a myth; that the products are engineered to such amazing standards that provide consistent results, thus pressure changes aren't necessary. That means nothing was "myth-busted," as they simply stated opinions over the matter. It also means that their reasoning for saying it's a myth, is because the COUNTLESS hours that are put in to testing the products in order to engineer them to the highest degrees. In other words, the two you say are putting in way more hours, are looking up to the manufacturers in order to know what to use. If the endless hours weren't exerted towards making these amazing products, these two would likely be detailing with mops and dish soap; because unlike the manufacturers who know way more about their respective fields in all areas involved, these two would be lost on the way to their mailboxes without a nice beaten down path to follow, and will never have any original thoughts that add any sort of value. That is all..
@@danapolchowski4220 first scientists do not spend their time improving a product, it's engineers who do, even then, the manufacturer won't know better on how to apply the product than a field expert, the manufacturer HIRES field experts to test the products because their experience is what is needed to make further improvements.
I sorta think it comes from old school rotary polisher practices because they are so brutal, like cranking out auction cars or some obscene quick shine process like that? Maybe give a light pass to knock the deep swirls down a little? I learned in a Dewalt rotary in the 90’s but had the luxury of using a dual 3” orbital polisher to finish out a vehicle. It was a very nice dealership with an eye for detail. Carpet extractors, wash bays, full product selection.
What about pad and polish combos? M205 with a microfiber and then m205 with a foam pad?
So what's the best best polishing speed?
Hahahahahaha se thing in my mind !
I found this completely true yesterday. Finishing black Honda paint with a rotary.
Philip Crow black Honda paint is anyone’s worst nightmare. You will scratch the damn stuff with a drying towel.
So the answer is no in general to both smat and dat? What about not lightening up but lowering the speed down?
Absolute EXPERTS!! If you want your car right - PAY ATTENTION! Thanks Larry & Kev
Actual answer: because todays products do NOT rely on pressure, but prodecure.
I was polishing my car the other day and I think on the Menzerna bottle, it says something like decrease pad pressure when the haze starts to disappear. I think this method works with diminishing polish like PO85RD. But on Meguiar's and Rupes non-diminishing polish, it is not required.
But if i were to use a sandpaper and apply more pressure during sanding, it does remove more clear....but why does it not reduce/refine if we applied less pressure? Seeking clarification
Diminishing returns, your sand paper will clog faster, uneven sanding with higher pressure vs even firm pressure that'll not clog nearly as fast and require less sand paper changes.
Great Video, Larry and Kevin.
You should bring Kevin with you to Detailer’s Domain event in a few weeks.
You two work well together
I think that more pressure means more cutting ability, more scouring, and during jeweling, light pressure is used.
I haven’t seen a boat on here yet Larry, one with decent oxidation like a 2006 Correct Craft Air Nautique SV-211 maybe one that’s Dark Blue and White and parked at MCAS Miramar??
Right on time, compounding/polishing my car tomorrow!
Hey I'm new to this detailing stuff and everything, but I always had the same question (it may be dumb 'cause I've never done this before), does all the polishing work just get washed over when you need to wash the car again? Like you need to polish the car everytime you wash it?
I just got my DA polisher today, i'm using the confidence Larry has given to work on my car, thanks Larry
If your cat starts hissing and scratching, then you’re applying too much pressure.
@@Vectorp47 oh no thanks😂😂😂
@@dillanmistry you must have corrected your sentence. You stated Larry gave you the confidence to work on your cat. Sorry Dillan, I couldn’t help myself lol!!
@@Vectorp47 yes I had to😂😂😂
No joke Larry is the reason I just did my first compound pass on my Forester it caught everyone's eye on it's polished drive, I'm good with that thanks... as long as it's not the police, I'm kidding :D
Larry I have seen a bunch of steam clean the exterior of your vehicle videos and comments and was interested on your thoughts about how it would affect the paint and wax. Love your videos.
Larry,
Can you please do a training on how to compound/polish scratches out of glass?
Today's tech has eliminated this process, right along with painters that still demand to wetsand for paint prep. Die hards of old industry standards just refuse to change. Great video and explanation as always.
Thanx for the video! One question-would it be better to let clear cure for several weeks before sanding and buffing?
How do you polish a scratch over a sharp bodyline?
What orbital polisher would you recommend for at home use!!?
What do you think about the scratch remover you get from the auto store i bought some and used a micro fiber towel to get out some scratches
Great presentations , could you please tell me using a medium cutting compound with DA followed with a polish on a G63 Mercedes , how many microns of clear coat does one remove .
So what is the best speed and pressure for paint correction?
There is no "best" each paint correction for each car is different. You need to read the paint and that will determine what speed and pressure works best for that particular paint.
I’m assuming this applies to diminished polishing compound?
The beauty of polishing is to face a different challenge every day.
Meguiars polish bottle says final pass should be lighter pressure.....
I go light on the last pass with polish because if I apply too much pressure it leaves lines.
Larry, what about speed here? I know this is also a factor which needs to be dialled in. Can you give me a reply on this please? I use a Das 6 Pro and set it at speed 4 and it gets results but I am not 100% sure is that ok, should it be lower when cutting or higher speed and higher when on polishing set (for eg in a 1 step?) Thanks for your reply. Declan
I lift up on my sand paper ...
He has some passion to his answer! Phew... glad I didnt ask that question.
Thanks again Larry, always spot on.
Great info Larry and Kevin, thanks for continuing to bring us this great info!
This is a GREAT video! Keep them coming!
AND my search for a polish speed and pressure video continues.
I am about to polish my first car and have learned a huge amount from your channel *big thanks*. But one question that remain and I cant find anywhere is gloss lvl and what "it give in shine". If a have a polish that do 3/6 cutting (no problem understanding) and 5/6 gloss, how good is that when i look at it. Do i need to finish with something that is 6/6 like sonax perfect finish. With other words, can a non master like me (read stupid ;) ) see the difference?
Propably not. You can test it out by polishing for example half of the bonnet with a pair that leaves basically no marring and scratches behind (rough combo enough to get rid of wanted amount of marring etc) and then test another 50/50 area does it make it more shiny with finishing pad/compound. I couldn't notice a difference with koch chemies 5/6 cut and 3/6 gloss compared to 1/6 cut and 6/6 gloss by using a middle cut foam pad. Did a 50/50 with both aside and same result. No haze anymore after cutting the scratches away before, and same gloss on sunlight..
ruclips.net/video/6tepA3wjPbY/видео.html for example watch this. Here you can definitely see the haze of the aggressive compound and pad and a huge difference after finishing pad and compound. You just need to find a like 1 step combo for you and your technique where u cut enough stuff away and make it shine like after finishing compound. But for me, I wont notice a difference between 4/6 gloss and 6/6 gloss with finishing pad...
@@Karpalet Thanks, good input for me!!
@@erikmoose You're welcome! I'm also still a learner too. :)
Hey I'm new to this detailing stuff and everything, but I always had the same question (it may be dumb 'cause I've never done this before), does all the polishing work just get washed over when you need to wash the car again? Like you need to polish the car everytime you wash it?
The important part I wanted to know is how much pressure you put on the polisher.
@ammonyc what flex machine was you using in this? Great video as always 👌🏾
Hey Larry how do you like the flex in comparison to your rupes
Both are best in industry
What are those pixelated flashes I keep seeing?
Thank god you see that too, I thought it was my GPU going bad
@@soapa4279 nope its this vid fs
i polished front of my car with 3m compound and rotary polisher it has shine but i see scratches from pad on sun.What is reason for this?can it be too agressive pad?
Sounds like wrong pad/compound combination, and lack of experience with rotory machines. What pad and compound are you specifically using?
@@jeremiah1178 its pad that was on machine when i bought it.Its foam pad i dont know even for what it is.I think i didnt do anything wrong with machine i tested it many times with different speeds more/less compound results are same
@@bobanppvc pads have different characteristics, some are more aggressive than others. Pads are a part of the over all equation, and knowing what pads you have and their uses is just as important. Also not trying to be rude, but I'd highly suggest getting a da machine if you dont have much experience. Which I'd assume is true. Less chances of ruining your paint. But keep up the willingness to learn. Check out Larry's videos, and some other retailers videos. Knowledge is the key to success in this art.
@@jeremiah1178 Definitely. DA's are much safer. In my opinion rotarys are best for paint correction. DA's are great but have their place. For instance, you won't find a DA in a body shop. You shouldn't be using a rotary with compound to just get a shine. If it is a yellow pad then it's a medium cut pad. 3M makes an amazing machine polish that you should pair with a black foam polishing pad and follow the instructions for speeds etc. PS. On that bottle it will probably say to lessen pressure and speed on final pass. lol ... If you just want to polish and shine your ride then get a griots da from autozone or advanced auto and use an All In One Polish..
With polishing, you dont want to move that machine so fast. Polishing should be done one a slower speed for most car finishes. If you buffed properly, then slower speed for any surface.
Video about correcting hard paints please! I know Im not the only one struggling about it.
Hey bud. I have a few of those. Check my older videos. Thanks
so whats the best speed and pressure>
??????
I hope this is true because a lot of products that are out there which will remain nameless, say just that on the directions such as on final pass use light pressure🤷🏼♂️
Did you get the mythbusting idea from me? Can you just say yes so I can feel special for like, 13 minutes? Thank Larry!!
send again to my email. didnt get. But...yes :)
Great as always. Thanks Larry!
I have found this to be true over the last 5 years
Great video guys! Big congratulations to you Larry for reaching 800k subs!!! Can’t wait till you hit the million mark! Ammo fan for life!
Very informative Video 👌🏻
Best video yet!
Ok, don’t lighten up... but how do you get rid of swirl marks? That’s what I want to know.
He put that myth to rest......great video explanation
these videos are invaluable, just too short ;-) i actually did the lift method when finishing, now i just feel stupid
Always good content!!
Great video you two are amazing and would be so much fun just to watch the entire process from start to finish with all the talking....neither should stop or talk less
So much knowledge!!
Well the discussion in the video didn't answer the question in the title of the video.
I think you over thought the useless question about lifting off during the last path.
I don't know what kind of pads you're using, they look way too thin, and sounds like you've got the buffer way too fast. But, if it works for you, all good I suppose.
I never get mine above the lowest setting, EVER. I use a Makita, the lowest speed is 600RPM, supposedly. That's according to the spec sheet. No matter what brand I use, high speeds just burn in those awful holograms. I use the thick 1"plus pads, the orange, blue, white etc all the way to the fine black colored pad. 3M for marine applications and Meguair's mirror glaze professional products for automotive. It's worked for me since the late 1980's. Only thing that's changed is the products keep getting better, I don't think the paint has changed much, not on American cars anyway, it's inferior to the likes of German and Japanese. Especially GM paint. It's garbage. Just like their automobiles.
Interesting topic, but not the best pressure polishing speed for paint correction. Bummer.
This comes from the days of polishing shoes where the lighter pressure created less heat.
Once again, this was brilliant Larry and Kevin👍
Another great video. Thanks!
Love this channel man✊❤️
Good Channel!
I just watched an entire video by you two about not lightening up at the end and here you state that you are getting ready to finish and you lighten up. ??? I wonder where the rumor got started.
hmm... I'd love if you can point out where that statement was made where we were getting ready to finish and we lightened up.
Great video!
Hes great kevin 😂
There's also a myth that you need to stand on the tool as well.
would you sand with 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, and then lighten up again on the last with 2500? surely not....lol c'mon guys it's the same concept with lightening up pressure on last pass. maybe not necessary, but not detrimental either.
Is it safe not to wear a mask while polishing?
What a bullshit, what RPM?? Title not reflect the vid!!
Seriously. I'm sure these guys know their **** but I came for title information.
Hey if you bump your tire pressure up in the last couple of laps you actually will be faster 😂😂😂
"Much ado about nothing", Shakespeare. So, What is the best Polishing Speed and Pressure For Paint Correction???
This guy literally never stop learning 😂 I mean thats good but come on dude..
ugg I know...learning. Yuck.
Another free detail just to make a RUclips video. #RUclipsDetailer
first
"technology" lol