I appreciate the effort you put into creating this video. It was very helpful to give a visual before performing the maintenance. My clutch plates were ordered like the manual (flat ring, curved ring, then clutch plates). I understand you said that you did your's like the previous gen R1 and how you found it, without any problems. Just wanted to give feedback and remind everyone that the 2015 R1 had a recall and many dealers performed the recall to any sitting inventory to get paid. This may be part of the discrepancy. If in doubt, follow the manual. Thanks again!
Great video , have you noticed that the manual says to offset the last friction plate to the rest of the stack to distribute the stress on the clutch and help lessen the noise but every stock clutch I've seen on these bikes including the mt10 from the factory don't seem to offset the last friction plate, not sure why they don't practice what the state in the manual , but it's not the end of the world if you don't offset the last plate and still works fine 👍🏼👌🏼
Offset... On my 04 and 15 r1, when i offset last friction plate it is held away from other plates, not touching them at all, and clutch does not operate. Do you offset last plate? Sure wish i had access to yamaha engineers, lol.
I remember reading that when i did my 04r1 and when installed offset the clutch would not operate. I assume the last plate is the outermost plate. When i installed my clutch plates on my 15r1 i did it just the way i show it on the video. Since then i have put on several thousand street miles and have pushed bike to the max on race track, both track days and racing PBIR, Daytona and COTA and my clutch operates perfectly. I would suggest you try it both ways and see for yourself but it will cost more because you must use new clutch cover bolts each time after torquing to spec and i believe those bolts are 8 to 10 dollars each. I am not a certified mechanic so if you are unsure it might be wise to consult a yamaha certified mechanic. My video shows how i did the work on my bike. You may check my channel and see how well my bike operates on my track day and racing videos
@@TopSpeedTommy Thanks for the advice. Coincidentally I'm a mechanic by trade and I'm stating what the Yamaha workshop service manual makes a special note of. Page 402 if you would like to look it up. I'm not trying to be smart here, Regards
Very helpful ..I do have a curiosity In the video you show putting back a friction plate before the flat ring and the conical ring and I have to diagrams from yamaha and partzilla that show the rings go on before any friction plates.. did you have any issues?
Go back to 8:25 in the video...notice when i disassemble, there is one friction plate under the retaining rings. In this video i am changing the plates for the first time on this particular bike...hence, the factory assembled it that way...the retaining rings are there to "retain" the specified plate...i have plenty of video on youtube of this bike on the race track pushing it to the limit with no issues, after replacing the clutch. I also ride this bike on the street daily. My 2004 r1 also had a single plate "retained" in a similar way. I would encourage you to film any dissassembly work you do so you can see how it was before you disassemble it and to help you not reassemble it incorrectly. I do all my own work and this video is a reference to show the procedure i used to replace the clutch plates on my motorcycle . I am not liable if a novice damages a motorcycle by performing an incorrect procedure or by using an incorrect part or by misassembly or by making any other mistake. I also encourage you to share any video you create that would show a factory installed clutch in a different layout on a 2015 yamaha R1 than what you see here. If you have the same bike with OEM clutch, I am sure that if you disassemble the clutch plates you will find that the mfg installed parts have a specific friction plate under the retaining rings just as you see in my video
Very good question! You do not need to drain the engine oil to change the clutch plates. Be mindful to avoid dropping dirt and debris into engine casing. I recommend cleaning the clutch cover and surrounding area before opening the cover if it has dirt on it.
This video was done on 2015. Same basic technique for most years all the way back to 04 and earlier. Should be about the same for 2020 r1m but part numbers may be different, torque specs may be different. I strongly recommend getting a service manual and if you are unsure, consult a mechanic. I am not a mechanic, just a racer with a low budget and self learned by following service manual instructions
Hello, how are you? I hope very well I have a 2015 yamaha R1 apparently my clutch dscos died, I am in Colombia, I follow your video because I want to replace them myself, I have looked for the parts online but I can not find them, I do not know if you can help me, if you have the linnk in amazon or ebay I would appreciate it immensely a cordial greeting
I am having a little trouble understanding what you mean. It sounds like you are saying the clutch is still engaged somewhat when you pull in the clutch lever. Id this is the case, it might be that the small arm on the bottom of the clutch cover that the clutch cable connects too was not lined up properly when the clutch cover was installed. That is the most likely problem, if not that, it might be the last clutch plate installed is mis aligned. I believe it kore likely the pull arm alignment is the issue.
I would guess that there is wear on the shift fork or other internal parts of the transmission. You could replace the transmission assembly as a whole or remove it and take it to a local shop to check the individual parts. If you are doing your own work i suggest purchasing a service manual( not owners manual) for your bike model year. I am not a pro mechanic but i do my own work based on the service manual instructions for my particular bike.
I appreciate the effort you put into creating this video. It was very helpful to give a visual before performing the maintenance.
My clutch plates were ordered like the manual (flat ring, curved ring, then clutch plates). I understand you said that you did your's like the previous gen R1 and how you found it, without any problems. Just wanted to give feedback and remind everyone that the 2015 R1 had a recall and many dealers performed the recall to any sitting inventory to get paid. This may be part of the discrepancy. If in doubt, follow the manual.
Thanks again!
Great video , have you noticed that the manual says to offset the last friction plate to the rest of the stack to distribute the stress on the clutch and help lessen the noise but every stock clutch I've seen on these bikes including the mt10 from the factory don't seem to offset the last friction plate, not sure why they don't practice what the state in the manual , but it's not the end of the world if you don't offset the last plate and still works fine 👍🏼👌🏼
Offset... On my 04 and 15 r1, when i offset last friction plate it is held away from other plates, not touching them at all, and clutch does not operate. Do you offset last plate? Sure wish i had access to yamaha engineers, lol.
Help me out a lot thanks used the old bolts and snapped one tho all good now tho 👍🏻🍺
Very helpful!
Was it making a weird noise, I'm trying to figure out if it's the same problem I'm having
Are all the plates and order of them the same on a 2016 r1s?
According to the manual the last friction plate is supposed to go in offset to the rest. Looks like all yours are aligned on the final assembly.
I remember reading that when i did my 04r1 and when installed offset the clutch would not operate. I assume the last plate is the outermost plate. When i installed my clutch plates on my 15r1 i did it just the way i show it on the video. Since then i have put on several thousand street miles and have pushed bike to the max on race track, both track days and racing PBIR, Daytona and COTA and my clutch operates perfectly. I would suggest you try it both ways and see for yourself but it will cost more because you must use new clutch cover bolts each time after torquing to spec and i believe those bolts are 8 to 10 dollars each. I am not a certified mechanic so if you are unsure it might be wise to consult a yamaha certified mechanic. My video shows how i did the work on my bike. You may check my channel and see how well my bike operates on my track day and racing videos
@@TopSpeedTommy Thanks for the advice. Coincidentally I'm a mechanic by trade and I'm stating what the Yamaha workshop service manual makes a special note of. Page 402 if you would like to look it up. I'm not trying to be smart here, Regards
@@TopSpeedTommy replace them with titanium bolts next time. For 60$ you won’t have to mess with the aluminum ones ever again.
Hello i have a problem Witherspoon my clutch and wanted to ask you a few questions maybe you can help me
Very helpful ..I do have a curiosity In the video you show putting back a friction plate before the flat ring and the conical ring and I have to diagrams from yamaha and partzilla that show the rings go on before any friction plates.. did you have any issues?
Go back to 8:25 in the video...notice when i disassemble, there is one friction plate under the retaining rings. In this video i am changing the plates for the first time on this particular bike...hence, the factory assembled it that way...the retaining rings are there to "retain" the specified plate...i have plenty of video on youtube of this bike on the race track pushing it to the limit with no issues, after replacing the clutch. I also ride this bike on the street daily. My 2004 r1 also had a single plate "retained" in a similar way. I would encourage you to film any dissassembly work you do so you can see how it was before you disassemble it and to help you not reassemble it incorrectly.
I do all my own work and this video is a reference to show the procedure i used to replace the clutch plates on my motorcycle . I am not liable if a novice damages a motorcycle by performing an incorrect procedure or by using an incorrect part or by misassembly or by making any other mistake. I also encourage you to share any video you create that would show a factory installed clutch in a different layout on a 2015 yamaha R1 than what you see here. If you have the same bike with OEM clutch, I am sure that if you disassemble the clutch plates you will find that the mfg installed parts have a specific friction plate under the retaining rings just as you see in my video
I just opened my 2016 and the retaining ring is last? There is no other fiction plate?
I'm currently staring at it.... any tips?
this seems like a dumb thing to ask but do you need to drain the oil for this procedure?
Very good question! You do not need to drain the engine oil to change the clutch plates. Be mindful to avoid dropping dirt and debris into engine casing. I recommend cleaning the clutch cover and surrounding area before opening the cover if it has dirt on it.
@@TopSpeedTommy is there a way to identify which plate goes at the the front or back? all mine just came tg in one pack srk series
Bety good
What years this video good for? 2020r1m?
This video was done on 2015. Same basic technique for most years all the way back to 04 and earlier. Should be about the same for 2020 r1m but part numbers may be different, torque specs may be different. I strongly recommend getting a service manual and if you are unsure, consult a mechanic. I am not a mechanic, just a racer with a low budget and self learned by following service manual instructions
Hello, how are you? I hope very well
I have a 2015 yamaha R1 apparently my clutch dscos died, I am in Colombia, I follow your video because I want to replace them myself, I have looked for the parts online but I can not find them, I do not know if you can help me, if you have the linnk in amazon or ebay I would appreciate it immensely
a cordial greeting
Hola Manuel. I am sorry, i do not know about ordering parts to Colombia. Try searching ebay for this OEM kit 2cr-w001g-00-00
@@TopSpeedTommy thanks a lot
well like its got pressure but it just wont free roll when i put it in gear and pull the clutch
I am having a little trouble understanding what you mean. It sounds like you are saying the clutch is still engaged somewhat when you pull in the clutch lever. Id this is the case, it might be that the small arm on the bottom of the clutch cover that the clutch cable connects too was not lined up properly when the clutch cover was installed. That is the most likely problem, if not that, it might be the last clutch plate installed is mis aligned. I believe it kore likely the pull arm alignment is the issue.
@@TopSpeedTommy i got it i forgot to say but thanks for your help i really appreciate it
Gotta 06 r1 not going into 3rd gear. Any clue
I would guess that there is wear on the shift fork or other internal parts of the transmission. You could replace the transmission assembly as a whole or remove it and take it to a local shop to check the individual parts. If you are doing your own work i suggest purchasing a service manual( not owners manual) for your bike model year. I am not a pro mechanic but i do my own work based on the service manual instructions for my particular bike.