Man I wish I'd seen this three weeks ago. Bought a non-adjustable valve from some Amazon marketplace seller for twice the price of this valve. If it doesn't work or doesn't fit, I know exactly where I'll be getting a better one. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks for this easy to follow video. You made it look simple and it was simple. I had to replace this and isolation valve. This video helped towards saving me a starting fee of £170+vat and that's not including parts!
Great vid. TIP ! ALWAYS make sure you have the RIGHT tools to hand plus rags etc (old plastic food tubs come in handy)👀👍I removed the SIPHON unit to allow easier access for install. (Check out vids on this) AND sometimes its worth replacing the siphon unit at the same time! 👀👍Overall the cost (parts) should be about £50 !! WITH the siphon unit replaced OR about £20 - £30 with just the filler unit.
I need to change the bottom entry fill valve, old ball type. Fine with how to do it but how do I know if the new shank fits the old compression thread on the flexible pipe from the cold supply. There is no isolation valve so need to turn off supply in airing cupboard. The outside diameter of the shank is 25mm or 1 inch ish. Not allowed out as meant to be shielding so need to order online , guarantee if I take it apart to check it will leak if I have re-use the old parts so I can switch the water back on to the rest of the house. The old ball valve system has no adjustment left and leaks continuously and the overflow just drips out the bottom of the cistern not out through a pipe in the wall which for some reason was never finished by the previous owner. Would like to fit a siphon/flush which feeds any excess through the toilet bowl. Plumber engaged but months away when all new cloakroom to be built and only then when the plague leaves town!!! Thanks.
@@misterocain from a plumber here, we Chuck those cone shaped washers off and apply a bit of silicone to the nut you tighten into the bottom. Washers have a tendency to stretch, bend or what have you where silicone will push into all the little spaces where water might be leaking from
@@finleyharrington-brown2889 Thanks. in the end, i managed it with the washer but a also with load of silicone. I will follow your advice next time (hopefully many years away).
Mine has a plastic service valve , screwing to the cistern inlet. Metal service valves don't seal properly, so how do I get round this, can you still but the plastic service valves, or do I need to change the whole cistern unit? Thanks
Massive thanks for doing this, well paced clear demo. Our loo packed up in the middle for Covid 19 lockdown but this vid has given me the confidence for a bit of loo DIY ;-)
Fitted this (fluid master version with brass shank) last month but today found water overflowing drips...seems as if there is some gunk or small stone particles stuck in washer...any idea how to strip this down to replace or clean washer?
I have just installed my valve but it keeps on over flowing. I have in checked the float which is free but once it reaches the top it keeps on filling.
Just followed this video and everything went well. Only problem is the water is now colder than usual and creating condensation on the cistern, any ideas?
3:28 I don't understand why i am getting a leak from the bottom fitting as the rubber washer inside should form a good seal. I notice you had no washer when fitting the bottom nut. Presumably i need to apply some silicon.
My water value is a wing nut, tucked under the basin, that i can only get hold of with the tips of my index and middle fingers. I cant get enough purchase to undo it. How on earth an i supposed to change it within smashing my face into the floor in rage?!
Old metal water pipes tended to be 1/2 inch. HOWEVER COPPER tends to be 12mm so the 1/2inc/12mm type.👀1 inch = 25.4mm There are some fitted with PLASTIC piping and that too is 12mm. ALWAYS be careful NOT to OVER TIGHTEN connectors etc Tighten enough to ensure water is NOT seeping around the connection etc.
Apparently you should be aware that the EUROPEAN pipes are 3/8inch. If you are in the UK 1/2inch or 12mm is the norm. 👀3/8ths of an inch = 0.375in × 25.4= 9.525mm 👀
i notice up near the top there is a short nozzle that looks like a pipe should go on there , mine has this but has a blanking plug in it as does the one in this video but the replacement i purchased has the nozzle but is not blanked off , just wondering what the nozzle is for as can't find any info on it , nozzle can be seen at 4.06 in video
So I replaced mine and it's leaking underneath from the bottom of the cistern. I have the rubber washer the right way around and it seems to be snug enough.
I solved it! Unscrewed again and took the new one out, thoroughly cleaned around the cistern hole, re-seated the valve and reconnected. Now it works and no leak (so far!). So pleased with myself!!!
This did the job for me. My valve was touching the inside wall of the cistern though so I bent it very slightly away from the wall by wedging a small rubber object between the wall and the flush valve so that the flush valve boat could float up and down freely. In engineering terms this is called a jury rig I believe or is it a bodge job? :D
Please can you tell me when you reconnected the water connection, did you use a sealant like boss white or can you just tighten up with out anything? I have to change my fill valve and its the same old ball type arm fill valve like the one in your video. Thanks, Ed. (And yes, ive already subscribed! lol!)
Strange isn`t it how all these DIY videos always show the easy access, easy to get tools to, not very old or brand new fittings.....and guess what, it all just comes off sooooo easy! Good video, but lets have a video with a bast**** of a fitting where you cant get to it and its all sealed and rusted up........real life in other words.
Man I wish I'd seen this three weeks ago. Bought a non-adjustable valve from some Amazon marketplace seller for twice the price of this valve. If it doesn't work or doesn't fit, I know exactly where I'll be getting a better one. Thanks for the great video.
Excellent demonstration. Well done. Off I go now to finish the job. Queen Bee will be thrilled I’ve solved another head-wrecking problem for her.
Thanks for this. Very nervous about disconnecting anything water-related but I think it's about time I learned!
Thanks for this easy to follow video. You made it look simple and it was simple. I had to replace this and isolation valve. This video helped towards saving me a starting fee of £170+vat and that's not including parts!
I 𝘭𝘪𝘬𝘦 hearing when the water fills the cistern; it's a nice enough noise & reassures me it's still working! 😊
Great vid. TIP ! ALWAYS make sure you have the RIGHT tools to hand plus rags etc (old plastic food tubs come in handy)👀👍I removed the SIPHON unit to allow easier access for install. (Check out vids on this) AND sometimes its worth replacing the siphon unit at the same time! 👀👍Overall the cost (parts) should be about £50 !! WITH the siphon unit replaced OR about £20 - £30 with just the filler unit.
"Everything should be just fine", famous last words.
I did what you said and flooded the house. Great vid 👍
You are "The Man!" Thanks mate, a great help, well explained 👍
An excellent video, extremely informative and helpful...thankyou!
Hold tight ! Good job, I will attempt tomorrow. BTW you look younger here !
I need to change the bottom entry fill valve, old ball type. Fine with how to do it but how do I know if the new shank fits the old compression thread on the flexible pipe from the cold supply. There is no isolation valve so need to turn off supply in airing cupboard. The outside diameter of the shank is 25mm or 1 inch ish.
Not allowed out as meant to be shielding so need to order online , guarantee if I take it apart to check it will leak if I have re-use the old parts so I can switch the water back on to the rest of the house. The old ball valve system has no adjustment left and leaks continuously and the overflow just drips out the bottom of the cistern not out through a pipe in the wall which for some reason was never finished by the previous owner. Would like to fit a siphon/flush which feeds any excess through the toilet bowl. Plumber engaged but months away when all new cloakroom to be built and only then when the plague leaves town!!!
Thanks.
Very clearly explained. Just bought the Flushking bottom fill valve and flush valve. I'm sure we can get them up and running pronto. Thanks!
Thanks. Must the black rubber washer be inside or can you put it on the outside as well. mine is leaking at the bottom
Me too. How did you solve it?
@@misterocain from a plumber here, we Chuck those cone shaped washers off and apply a bit of silicone to the nut you tighten into the bottom. Washers have a tendency to stretch, bend or what have you where silicone will push into all the little spaces where water might be leaking from
@@finleyharrington-brown2889 Thanks. in the end, i managed it with the washer but a also with load of silicone. I will follow your advice next time (hopefully many years away).
Does flushking still do those valves??
Mine has a plastic service valve , screwing to the cistern inlet. Metal service valves don't seal properly, so how do I get round this, can you still but the plastic service valves, or do I need to change the whole cistern unit? Thanks
Massive thanks for doing this, well paced clear demo. Our loo packed up in the middle for Covid 19 lockdown but this vid has given me the confidence for a bit of loo DIY ;-)
Fitted this (fluid master version with brass shank) last month but today found water overflowing drips...seems as if there is some gunk or small stone particles stuck in washer...any idea how to strip this down to replace or clean washer?
This was surprisingly entertaining
Do you need teflon tape on the thread?
Thanks for this useful video, helped me a lot.
I have just installed my valve but it keeps on over flowing. I have in checked the float which is free but once it reaches the top it keeps on filling.
Cheers buddy for the video. Now I know how simple it is.
Do you use PTFE tape at all, sorry for the bone question. Not a plumber
Just followed this video and everything went well. Only problem is the water is now colder than usual and creating condensation on the cistern, any ideas?
3:28 I don't understand why i am getting a leak from the bottom fitting as the rubber washer inside should form a good seal. I notice you had no washer when fitting the bottom nut. Presumably i need to apply some silicon.
My water value is a wing nut, tucked under the basin, that i can only get hold of with the tips of my index and middle fingers. I cant get enough purchase to undo it. How on earth an i supposed to change it within smashing my face into the floor in rage?!
Hi Great video , how do you know if it's a 15mm or 1/2" that;s needed , thanks for any help ,
G
Old metal water pipes tended to be 1/2 inch. HOWEVER COPPER tends to be 12mm so the 1/2inc/12mm type.👀1 inch = 25.4mm There are some fitted with PLASTIC piping and that too is 12mm. ALWAYS be careful NOT to OVER TIGHTEN connectors etc Tighten enough to ensure water is NOT seeping around the connection etc.
Apparently you should be aware that the EUROPEAN pipes are 3/8inch. If you are in the UK 1/2inch or 12mm is the norm. 👀3/8ths of an inch = 0.375in × 25.4= 9.525mm 👀
Did you use a seal at the final connection
Thank you! This was super helpful.
main man brass connection spot on
Woao massive thanks for this video!
i notice up near the top there is a short nozzle that looks like a pipe should go on there , mine has this but has a blanking plug in it as does the one in this video but the replacement i purchased has the nozzle but is not blanked off , just wondering what the nozzle is for as can't find any info on it , nozzle can be seen at 4.06 in video
Did you find out?
Thank you for well presented video...very simple and helpful
Thanks for this mate, perfect job.👍🏻
So I replaced mine and it's leaking underneath from the bottom of the cistern. I have the rubber washer the right way around and it seems to be snug enough.
I solved it! Unscrewed again and took the new one out, thoroughly cleaned around the cistern hole, re-seated the valve and reconnected. Now it works and no leak (so far!). So pleased with myself!!!
Thanks for the video, really helpful.
This is the second one for the basement bat. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxOuLt8IL_GxhhaK8DBuKEL-zV0UJVpWZn , works great
thank you so much. worked a treat!!!!!
Just what I needed to know!
What way do you screw the screw on the ball valve to lower the water?
Top explanation! Thank you!
I will be doing this job soon. Do I need I new fibre washer or is it an olive ?
jim phanco If you mean for the water connection then you could replace the washer if you think the old one is knackered. No olives required.
Thanks, you saved me a good few quid.
This did the job for me. My valve was touching the inside wall of the cistern though so I bent it very slightly away from the wall by wedging a small rubber object between the wall and the flush valve so that the flush valve boat could float up and down freely. In engineering terms this is called a jury rig I believe or is it a bodge job? :D
James Moore
James Moore
You missed out the removal of an old knackered fibre washer and check for a clean surface for the new fibre washer to seat on
Thank you James!
Does this work on a handle flush?
Please can you tell me when you reconnected the water connection, did you use a sealant like boss white or can you just tighten up with out anything? I have to change my fill valve and its the same old ball type arm fill valve like the one in your video. Thanks, Ed. (And yes, ive already subscribed! lol!)
Did you get a reply
@@scottmacgregor8842 did YOU get a reply?
Thanks for the video, very good.
My water connection kept leaking think I needed a washer .....there wasn't one on it originally though
I got the same problem. How did you get over it? did you apply some silicon/
Is this how to upgrade from a ballcok.
Good explanation. Thanks
Great video, many thanks :-)
excellent video so helpful. thanks M8
Slow it down, just a tad. You are a very experienced Pro. Your audience, who are watching because they haven’t got a clue, are NOT.
Should fit a new fibre washer too !
nice thank you
And if your feed pipe is a different size to the inlet valve? Yeah we've thought this through haven't we?
Strange isn`t it how all these DIY videos always show the easy access, easy to get tools to, not very old or brand new fittings.....and guess what, it all just comes off sooooo easy! Good video, but lets have a video with a bast**** of a fitting where you cant get to it and its all sealed and rusted up........real life in other words.