Future of Rewires, Quinetic switching, Exotic life of an Electrician
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- Опубликовано: 16 фев 2020
- Heading back to a recent video/job to rewire the lighting circuits,
Using quinetic switching so no damage to walls
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Imagine they get a different spark in who doesn't know about wireless switches, be like voodoo magic to them. Great set up, and I agree, this just has to be the start of the future of domestic re wire.
Love those switches so useful
I use quinetic on every garden light job I do, never thought of doing it inside thanks for the idea nick👍👍👍
Looks like such a great idea hopefully this is the future and this work long term and manufacturers catch on 👍🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
Just used these for
new lights in top floor. Works a treat so much time saved not having to chase the wall.
Class system.well explained nick.
Another good and interesting vid and like those great for no damage to decorations 👍
Another great video and everyone needs an 'Adam'. Great kid and seems to eager to learn. If you have a spare Adam I'd happily take him on.
That switching Idea is epic loving your video's top spark great apprentice future legend keep up the good work nick.
Really impressed.
Well done mate, 🤘🏻
Nice one looks convenient saves a load of mess and wiring
Good video mate :) very informative!!
Lovely job Nick and Adam 😎👍. Great idea and solution for that problem.
Well if you say so James. Only thing is, if you're you're lifting boards and sinking boxes for the power circuits anyway..............!
These things are great, I use a lot of them for garden lighting, never had a problem with them until I used a two way receiver. Ended up using two separate ones. Like the idea of a massive box for all of the receivers indoors, I’ve always done individual... until now 👍🏻
Great video nick 👍
Very interesting video Nick good watch
👍👍👍👍👍
Another great vid nick!
Wireless - welcome to the Future! - nice job👍
I have used quinetic for a long time supplied from TLC bristol, I done a rewire back in 2017 where we used the same setup adaptable box in a single position and one cable out to each area which worked great. I recently done a job where I installed multiple floodlights with quinetic built in. the area they where installed in was completely open no obstructions and I could not even achieve 100m distance so I would listen to the 160m they claim other than that it is a good bit of kit
Keep doing the first person hat it’s really interesting
Great video mate
Love the idea of having all of the receivers in one place and no chasing out. For a rewire in a inhabited property this would be a massive bonus, but how do you insulation resistance test? can they handle 500v DC.
My worry with these is how long will the relays last, I’d be careful about wiring too many lamps, some LEDs have got big inrush currents which will creste a lot of wear on the relay contacts. As long as they’re accessible for maintenance I guess it’s ok - though I’d pay more for switch drops with neutrals!
Great video 👍🏻, whats the life span on the switch and receiver?
Hey Nick, next time try TLC in Bermondsey branch, we will make sure to keep you as our regular haha
What is the make of the adapter box and what supplier did you use, the box looks ideal for accommodating the Quinetic switches.
Smart wares do a similar thing but it’s rf, I use them when customers want to move switches etc
they are a cool way of avoiding a reskim
Another top vid fella.....did you suss out what that thing was that had bristles on one end but bent when you put a drum of armoured on it
I think that as long as the receiver distribution box is in a logical, easily accessible location and is clearly labelled, this method is ok. Also, I'd prefer to see a metal enclosure with external antenna. They should make a dedicated enclosure for multi-circuit switched systems like this. Maybe they already do?? 🤔
They look decent I know dan uses the WiFi ones all the time for garden lighting I can see them definitely being useful
Great video again mate and nice to see adoption of future tech. Why not screw back raised board after first fix to make any troubleshooting/inspection and prevent squeaking boards?
You’re a machine! 😁
I don't like the plate rocker switches. However now that I know they do grid switches I like the idea.
I just wonder how reliable the receiver units are. Time will tell.
How did you get on with the church quote? Hope you get it as it will make a good video. Keep up the good work.
New tester mate ?? Also guessing you would have to link the receiver out to do a r1 r2 ?
Did you put a note on the CU advising it has Quinetic?
Definitely the way forward, especially given the switches don't need batteries.
So cool man
I hope somebody sorts out the hinges on that window seat, 2:11 ffs, it's not a shed door! 😂
Thad Giannetti
yup it looks bloody awful
Hi Nick. About to replace an old lighting circuit with these .do you remember what size the adaptable junction box was? Cheers.
Awesome
I am impressed with this technology, but being old school I would attempt to see if conduits are at switch drops firstly and try pulling down on them, that would be my plan A if not plan B these beauties.
Question if there is a power outage , do the receivers need to be paired up again.?
Tips from my experience: 1) take the nails out of the boards as soon as you take them up. Saves injuries later. 2) stick the boards back down with screws. Nails won't fill their old holes and without the tongue there's the ability for the board to move (and squeak, damage the carpet etc over time). My screw of choice for putting boards back is usually Reisser Cutter 3.5x40
If a board's come up once it'll need to come up again sometime so screw back down.
Spax wirox decking screws, twin threads to pull board on to joist use them only for newly drilled holes. Reisser 5 x 50 csk large head, remember to countersink the board to avoid splitting. No squeaks, ever.
Iv been using this stuff time to time its great, i just hope its available for a long time. I dont want to have to explain to a customer why i need to replace the system because its obsolete
Yeah very true bud
Very true. Get similar issue with integrated led downlights
Class
Looks like a boss system
I'd probs use it in my own house, reliability would be a concern using it in a customers home but then if they are game.
The actually switch sounds pretty loud? Or is that just the camera making it sound loud?
Always thinking outside the box, great work Nick. The ideal solution to rewiring lights where customers don't want any damage caused to the walls 👍
Nick what happened to the job with the other RUclips who done make up videos or whatever? Was interested in seeing you do a surface containment install. Is that still in the pipeline?
Could you please tell me if the switch fits into a changeable plate? I see on the quinetic website they sell grid switch's. I have a 1 gang light switch in the kitchen. Fitting led strip lights under. But wanted to get a 2 gang switch band fit a quinetic switch in... Is this possible?
Nice job.💪🏻 In Denmark, we use IHC wireless for these kind of jobs.😀
Regards from DK.🇩🇰
Just something I noticed but the dining room switch module label actually says dinning, not sure if anyone else has mentioned it 👌🏼👌🏼
The extra "n" is for Nick. 😁
Seems like a ok kit, but just off/on possibilities? No dimming option? (asking out of curiousity) Seems a bit odd of an choice. Greetings from a norwegian spark :)
Hope it all works and is reliable for you, I’d be having sleepless nights waiting for the phone call.
They have had wireless electric switches for years now, got some on the tv, and video.
I totally would have paired an extra switch for each circuit and then put them into a four-gang switch box complete with a switch cover plate (obv with no wires going in or out -- all the knock outs intact) and just hand it to the customer to play with and be like "you have the powerrrrrrrr". I bet they would love you.
Would I be right in saying then that you can effectively place the switch where ever you want as long as it's got room for an 'enclosure' so in the side of a bed side cabinet, Inside a garage door. Also I guess these can be placed inside zones with no worries other than possible moisture so could have them inside bathrooms ect
I don't know about the IP rating on these, but it's a great idea to put these in furniture. I see tons of great uses:
Bedrooms: put the bed and nightstand wherever you want, always a switch nearby
Open concept floor plans: no need to think where to put the switches and stick with a layout that has them nearby, you can just put switches hidden under the dining or coffee table top
Garden: garden lights switched inside the house with a receiver-switch, just take the sender-clicker with you in your pocket or put it in the garden table, no need for ugly IP-rated switchgear.
Even in the car: Put the lighting near the front door on a receiver-switch and put a sender-clicker in the car so you can turn on the light when you park up without the need for a PIR that gets triggered by the neighbours cat or anyone who walks by your house.
If these run on the 433mhz radio signal you can get a broad link rf hub and turn on and off via Alexa or Google home
Cameron JangDhari Ah didn’t know this! Good to know! 👌🏻
They do run on 433mhz according to the tech sheet 👍
Does that mean I could turn my neighbours lights on and off just as easily!? If I was 13 I would be all over that!
@@edcooper2396 technically but they usually need a button press on the unit to pair the device, so should be secure enough. Its just not as good at controlling, via Google or Alexa as a no neutral smart light switch. And the price is probably cheaper for a no neutral smart light switch than the 433mhz relay switch in the video. Or you can do the same thing with a shelly 1 and they are about £9 each and have full CE certification and you don't need to change the switches
Maybe a dumb question but how many lights can be operated by one receiver?
You mentioned up to ten switches per reciever. I would assume you can use one switch to operate multiple recievers?
Yes, as many as you like
May try these, look good.
What's the situation with IR testing? Do you need to take the receivers out of circuit?
I would think so, you’d probably blow them up
Lim on test sheet test LN to E maybe?
Test at 250......make a note on cert
Do you think you would be able to do a R1+R2 if you turn all the lights on then kill the power or would the relays shut again?
Hi Nick , where you get your work mats
Prs supplies on Instagram mate 👍
@@NBundyElectrical thanks Nick
I wonder how many new power stations we’ll need to supply the standby power of homes full of theses!
There's always one......and it's you
there a good idea but i fitted the wifi switches which were rubbish. customer asked me to take them out costing me money in time and parts
💯
Are those switches as clunk click loud in reality or is it the mic just enhancing the sound?
Fat Pedro they’re fairly loud, it’s because of the spring solenoid which generates the voltage pulse to power the transmission
Is that a new Megger mate? 😁
All I can say is I'm from across the pond but y'alls electrical is insane thank God I lived in the US it's got enough problems
US electrical systems are terrible. I work to their specifications. Yuk
I guess you’ve googled ring final circuit - to be honest I think it’s pretty insane in 2020 - but there’s something delightful about the quirkiness of it - and you can’t argue it wasn’t a great idea in the -1940s!
I presume the switches are battery driven?
Hey nick I’ve recently qualified as a domestic installer and haven’t got enough experience to get onto a competent worker scheme. Should I try to find work with a company or go self employed and have to notify all my work?
Indiana Jones all of the electricians mate jobs in my area have a level 3 NVQ requirement which is insane lol hopefully a company will take me on though whilst I do my level 2/3 on the weekends
How did you secure the receivers in the adaptable box
Small screw in eyelit on the receivers greg 👍
@@NBundyElectrical ok mate. Was you impressed with how it turned out or do you favor the old fashioned way. Do you reckon cost equals it self out in the end
What size back box do you need for the wireless grid?
I managed to get it on a 16mm 👍
You could have saved quite a bit if you had used the two channel version, think they are about a fiver more than a single channel receiver
I think that they're good for situations like this but if doing a full rewire then just stick to the usual way.
Why?
@@rickybeans8504 because if you're already chasing walls out and feeding cables in then it makes sense to do it while there.
These quinetics are good but how long will they last before faults start accruing and will need to be replaced, if its years down the line, companies have a tendency to discontinue many products, then maybe you'd need to start chasing walls etc out again, would you be happy as a customer if that was you?
Rough costings of the modules etc would be handy to know roughly
£25/£15 ish receiver/MK grid module.
There are also dimmer receivers and 16A receivers, plug in receivers and receivers with dual output. Proprietary plateswitches and grid modules for other manufacturers. All at TLC
Quinetic used to do the receivers without a clamp for the sheath so these are v2 but still didn’t think of cpc. If you’re crafty you can get a wago in there without having to put it in an adaptable box but hopefully they’ll do a v3 with isolated cpc terminal to make life easier.
I'm always amazed at how many junction boxes you find in inaccessible locations. I'm not saying it never happens here, but its an automatic fail for inspections. also locations of the fuse boards in tiny cupboards or at the floor behind the skirting with the gas meter pressed up against the fuse board?!? are there no regs covering that?
It's not a fail, I haven't done eicrs in a while but it would be a code 2 I believe, meaning it's not up to current regs but is not immediate danger so it's fine to leave it
No conduit to the switch drops?
How many hours you spent poking about in old switch drops ? I used to limit myself 30 mins of strife max if I couldn’t get a new cable down In that time it was no longer cost effective. but then I didn’t want to give in and was up and down the. Stairs for hours like a mad man trying to conquer the battle with mr old battered rusty bent oval b@stard !
What about dimming? Hold down the retractable switch?
Different receiver
Yes with a dimming receiver
As they are batteryless you can’t have a rotary or slider dimmer
What’s the reliability of these like? did quinetic publish their testing protocols. I would hate to be fitting all these in and in a couple of months customer calls you that they don’t work. Arghhh. That said some have found other electrical equipment can interfere with the rf signal
The old rubber cable is called TRS ( Tough Rubber Sheathed ) I've installed many 100 YARDS of it (,yes I'm that old ) VRI IS Vulcanised Rubber Insulated, often was cotton braided . I have used Quinetic switches, can't help how long they will last ?????? Anyone know the life expectancy ???.
Looking at some on amazon earlier state 3 year guarantee and 200,000 operations. That’s about 54 years at 10 operations a day .. not bad !
Vulcanised Indian Rubber *
I suspect the inrush of the attached load will define the lifetime.
I suspect that as there is no load on the kinetic due to it being a wireless switch that there will be no inrush so will have no effect on the lifetime ;)
Is it really quicker and cost effective?
It looks a lot quicker as no chasing out for the switch drops.
Whether it's cost effective or not depends on how much you charge per hour for labour.
Would make multi way lights real easy as no intermediate swiches needed. Just fit the switches wherever they are needed.
What happens if they would want a dimmer in the future?
You just have to change to a dimmer controler still uses the same switch, Just the controler is a little more expensive.
What is the deal of single insulated cable by the way? I my country we wire everything in stranded single insulated cable, if find strange that in the UK you use muticore cable everywhere (in my country is used only if not run inside walls). Also I find strange that in the UK you don't run cable in conduits, while where I live is strictly forbidden to run cable directly into the floor or walls, and that means that adding or replacing a wire is something trivial, you don't have to tear apart walls but just fish the new cable.
I'm not a fan of wireless switches, first they use a battery, that needs to be changed at some point, they also maybe need to be reassociated when you change it, and for people not so expert can be difficult, also it's not so secure, I imagine that uses an unencrypted wireless protocol, that means that a neighbour can turn on/off your lights if he wants to, not great.
By the way if the deal was not reusing the old cables because unsafe, why not just using the old 220v switches to switch a 12v/24v control signal that is used to turn on a relay that switches the actual 220v? Easy, simple and cheaper.
Conduits are used in some Domestic applications. You seem like you know an awful lot of nothing about British Standards.
Double insulated cabling are used in many countries for wiring through wooden joists.
Single insulated cabling has to be mechanically protected for the corrected specified requirements ie in conduits or Trunking
A1eR you don’t know anything about uk wiring but think you’ve proposed an easier and simpler solution? Look up the Dunning-Kurner effect. Also this wireless solution doesn’t use batteries - that was explained in the video.
@@edcooper2396 hopefully the irony of it being Dunning-Kruger won't be lost on you...
'dinning'
Anyone used the dimmer versions? and wether they can dim led lights?
Didn’t know they did them to be honest
I've used the dimmer versions and at least for me they work with leds without any flicker. To use the dimmer you press and hold the switch and it cycles through the dimmer levels. It remembers the last set level when you turn them back on again. Great bits of kit.
Can you remember which make of led lamp you used?
@@guyrichardsonRH17 the first time were actually IKEA own brand and also used Sylvania lamps.
@@hunterscakeco Cheers Ed. Fitting quinetic dimmers next week with aurora downlighters so 🤞
Just out of curiosity, why didn't you just wire each of these at the ceiling pendant/ light fittings and not have to take up all the floors and wire them all into one box, which could cause cross talk with the wireless signals
Accessibility?
@@markrowland5393 it's just as accessible as the wiring at the pendant and is easier for someone else to do work as it is all where they would normally have to do the work anyway. Alot less cable tracing and less places that need connector blocks or junction boxes.
I take it the IR test would be a 250v dc .
It would be for any lighting circuit that had fittings anyway
Surely got to release a grid version that operates like a normal rocker switch
Not sure if they work with Quinetic, but MK do a wireless transmitter system www.mkelectric.com/en-gb/Products/WD/Echo/Pages/default.aspx, quiet good, but expensive.
Maybe look into some radios so your not shooting across the house disturbing the client but great vid keep it up all good vibes
These things are going to be a living nightmare in the future, companies NEVER consider a longterm existance of this type of equipment. Good Luck.
was thinking the same when company goes bump and need replacement parts. Nice idea though especially for outdoor lighting and houses with finished walls. Wouldn't personally bother with new builds and full rewires
The only problem with these is trying to find out where the Install Spark has fitted the receivers in the house.
Leave a label on consumer unit, no big deal
Motion sickness central! 🤢😂
Basically, Wireless.
Magic pixies
It’s pronounced ‘kinetic’ as it’s a play on the kinetic energy used to power the radio.
So you could put the bathroom switch inside the bathroom.
You CAN put a switch in a bathroom - outside zones
Only if it's fit for purpose ie ip rated
No. That only applies in the zones (0,1 & 2) regulation 701.512.3. There is no limitation in BS7671 regarding installation normal plate switches outside of the zones in a room containing a bath or shower. Some argue best practice etc but consider a bedroom with a roll top bath … would you insist on a pull cord or a switch outside the room ?
No. That only applies in the zones (0,1 & 2) regulation 701.512.3. There is no limitation in BS7671 regarding installation normal plate switches outside of the zones in a room containing a bath or shower. Some argue best practice etc but consider a bedroom with a roll top bath … would you insist on a pull cord or a switch outside the room ?
Please take the camera away from those dreadful t hinges. With gold screws.
😂😂
Also whilst I'm here. My receiver just broke after 8 months.
I'd be careful with tlc own brand, which quinetic is.
I had a nightmare with 30+ ledlite downlights popping after 2/3 years - they had a 5 year warranty.
The office was not happy.
Fingers crossed 😅