holy hell this was so incredibly informative. Gonna be building a cell setup soon and this by far explained everything regarding the vent setup the best. also.... holy crap that vehicle is SICK..... incredible work and amazing fab on that cage
Awesome build mate, that dry brake is really high up, having a 25-30L jug up that high to refuel is not ideal. Unless you have a really tall friend haha
Man I would drive that to work, that's Dope AF...was looking at fuel cell set ups ran across This,and Said shit dude.... what's funny is I have a 99 4runner limited trans is popped Cuz the great radiator cooler,but I'll get it going soon...but This is nuts Man..... Sick.......... Good Job....
Thanks man! It's a work in progress, and it never stops. You need a part# for that tranny cooler? The one I have installed is the B&M 70268 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler.
@@nateatgoodmayhemracing4597 thanks man,put a Camaro cooler on her..but it was too late by then.... she's been sitting for a year, needs trans rebuilt...
It's not a bad idea on classic cars, because many builders are still using regular gas tanks. That, or they're using bladder-less fuel cells. Regular gas tanks allow for some amount of pressure and vacuum buildup, and that one way valve in the carb hat relieves that pressure and gives that fuel vapor somewhere to go. If that gas tank or bladder-less fuel cell suffers a vacuum (or negative pressure), it's not that big of deal. Fuel cells on the other hand are dangerous when they are above or below ambient air pressure. That one-way check valve is not a good idea with race-grade fuel Cells. With race-grade fuel cells like this fuelsafe, they have a woven fabric or polymer bladder that is shrouded in a metal case. The bladders are tensile, puncture and tear rated rather than pressure rated. Any pressure that builds up reduces bladder's ability to absorb energy during a crash. You know how balloons are easier to pop when they're stretched? Same problem with bladder-based fuel cells. They also loose strength when they're exposed to a vacuum, and that's why the one valve shouldn't be used.
Copy. Thank you. Was just second guessing myself. Im a Toyota guy as well with some pitcrew background with Ford . Helping on builds here and there. I love the build.
Thanks for the video. A question about the discriminator valve please - I thought they were supposed to mount above the vent outlet on the fuel cell. Where yours is mounted, if any fuel flows out of the fuel cell vent (like in the overfill scenario you mentioned), won't that fuel remain forever trapped in the line from the fuel cell to the discriminator valve? Thanks!
If your fuel cell does not have a roll-over valve built in, the location you've described is necessary, since the discriminator valve would be your first line of defense. My fuel cell has a roll over valve build in, so my discriminator is the 2nd defense, not the first. If you're building a car to a race code, check the race code first. Sometimes the race code dictates your discriminator valve's placement.
And to answer your question, yes, you're right. That fuel would be trapped between the fuel cell and the discriminator valve in my setup. I use hose clamps on mine to make it readily serviceable. Loosen two of them, and I can drain the fuel back into the tank.
Fortunately, it does not. Since evaporating gas usually causes pressure, the resulting head pressure alone in the ventline keeps it a one-way-flow. With fuel evaporation, the fumes make the airflow go one way. That is enough to keep it clean. Even if dust gets into the ventline, it's 24ft long with several loops and 90 degree elbows. If the dust were to get in, it'd probably build up at an elbow juncture. We'll keep an eye out for that.
@@nateatgoodmayhemracing4597 another thing that I would be concerned about is the pvc tubing. It is not rated for use with gasoline. I would be concerned about it either becoming hard and brittle or it swelling and becoming soft.
@@beetlebuilder5882 If we were talking about home-depot-available PVC hose, I'd agree. However, there are specific chemistries rated for gasoline use, and the hose I'm using is hose sold for this exact purpose. Fuel Safe Part# CVH100N.
@@nateatgoodmayhemracing4597 that is good to know. I assumed that it was regular pvc hose that you buy at the hardware store. I will check that hose out for my project.
holy hell this was so incredibly informative. Gonna be building a cell setup soon and this by far explained everything regarding the vent setup the best.
also.... holy crap that vehicle is SICK..... incredible work and amazing fab on that cage
Thank you so much, and you're welcome! You made my day with your feedback!
Thanks for this video I’m planning on putting a 32 gallon fuel safe in my ek hatch to drive cross country with
Awesome build mate, that dry brake is really high up, having a 25-30L jug up that high to refuel is not ideal. Unless you have a really tall friend haha
I agree! We're upgrading to the smaller Jeg's no glug jugs for future races.
This is what my fuel system is missing. Thanks for the detailed explanation
Man I would drive that to work, that's Dope AF...was looking at fuel cell set ups ran across This,and Said shit dude.... what's funny is I have a 99 4runner limited trans is popped Cuz the great radiator cooler,but I'll get it going soon...but This is nuts Man..... Sick.......... Good Job....
Thanks man! It's a work in progress, and it never stops. You need a part# for that tranny cooler? The one I have installed is the B&M 70268 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler.
@@nateatgoodmayhemracing4597 thanks man,put a Camaro cooler on her..but it was too late by then.... she's been sitting for a year, needs trans rebuilt...
Interesting. Classic cars route it to the carb hat with 1 way check valves. Is this not a good idea
It's not a bad idea on classic cars, because many builders are still using regular gas tanks. That, or they're using bladder-less fuel cells. Regular gas tanks allow for some amount of pressure and vacuum buildup, and that one way valve in the carb hat relieves that pressure and gives that fuel vapor somewhere to go. If that gas tank or bladder-less fuel cell suffers a vacuum (or negative pressure), it's not that big of deal.
Fuel cells on the other hand are dangerous when they are above or below ambient air pressure. That one-way check valve is not a good idea with race-grade fuel Cells. With race-grade fuel cells like this fuelsafe, they have a woven fabric or polymer bladder that is shrouded in a metal case. The bladders are tensile, puncture and tear rated rather than pressure rated. Any pressure that builds up reduces bladder's ability to absorb energy during a crash. You know how balloons are easier to pop when they're stretched? Same problem with bladder-based fuel cells. They also loose strength when they're exposed to a vacuum, and that's why the one valve shouldn't be used.
Great question, by the way!! Cheers!
Copy. Thank you. Was just second guessing myself. Im a Toyota guy as well with some pitcrew background with Ford . Helping on builds here and there. I love the build.
Thanks for the video. A question about the discriminator valve please - I thought they were supposed to mount above the vent outlet on the fuel cell. Where yours is mounted, if any fuel flows out of the fuel cell vent (like in the overfill scenario you mentioned), won't that fuel remain forever trapped in the line from the fuel cell to the discriminator valve? Thanks!
If your fuel cell does not have a roll-over valve built in, the location you've described is necessary, since the discriminator valve would be your first line of defense. My fuel cell has a roll over valve build in, so my discriminator is the 2nd defense, not the first. If you're building a car to a race code, check the race code first. Sometimes the race code dictates your discriminator valve's placement.
And to answer your question, yes, you're right. That fuel would be trapped between the fuel cell and the discriminator valve in my setup. I use hose clamps on mine to make it readily serviceable. Loosen two of them, and I can drain the fuel back into the tank.
Won't that setup suck in dust into your gas tank?
Fortunately, it does not. Since evaporating gas usually causes pressure, the resulting head pressure alone in the ventline keeps it a one-way-flow. With fuel evaporation, the fumes make the airflow go one way. That is enough to keep it clean. Even if dust gets into the ventline, it's 24ft long with several loops and 90 degree elbows. If the dust were to get in, it'd probably build up at an elbow juncture. We'll keep an eye out for that.
@@nateatgoodmayhemracing4597 another thing that I would be concerned about is the pvc tubing. It is not rated for use with gasoline. I would be concerned about it either becoming hard and brittle or it swelling and becoming soft.
@@beetlebuilder5882 If we were talking about home-depot-available PVC hose, I'd agree. However, there are specific chemistries rated for gasoline use, and the hose I'm using is hose sold for this exact purpose. Fuel Safe Part# CVH100N.
@@nateatgoodmayhemracing4597 that is good to know. I assumed that it was regular pvc hose that you buy at the hardware store. I will check that hose out for my project.
@@beetlebuilder5882 You're welcome! I'm glad I could help.
Does your cell fill up fast using the redhead and the 1" vent?
Yes, it does. The redheat is more limited by the jug than the fuel cell at this point.
motion sickness ........
Agreed, thanks for letting me know! Yeah, I’ve been better about that in later videos.
oh ok, so as long as your call yourself a racer! its ok to pollute the environment? lol
Shut up
Live and have fun