Hi Chad, I had a revelation using the termite tool. While making a box, I was noticing that I was only using one small section of the ring edge to do the actual cutting, and when it needed sharpening there was a a lot of sharp ring left that hadn't even touched wood. So I spun the lathe in the opposite direction, rotated the tool 180 degrees and presented the tool to the wood on the right hand side (as you face the piece), and got to use an unused edge. This effectively doubled the time between sharpening. I imagine you and many other turners have figured this out already, but I hadn't seen it anywhere so I thought I would share it.
Thanks for the tip, Steve! I had the same thought about the unused side of the cutter being wasted, but hadn't considered your solution. Next time I use it, I'll definitely be using that idea! Thanks for watching and sharing your tip!
You just saved me over a hundred bucks! I was considering getting the termite tool but after seeing how much better a bowl gouge does, I’m not so sure I’d want one now. Good video!
Steve, the Termite is the right tool, and with wet cherry the hollowing should only take a few minutes. You are using the tool upside down. Turn it over and use the less aggressive side, riding the bevel. I only use the aggressive edge to finish across the bottom inside of the bowl. Also, tuck the handle along your forearm with your right hand holding the handle at the fatter part closer to the ferrule. You will have far more control. Steady your body against the lathe and lean over, or turn in reverse. For deep vases that works best, but is a learning curve. And play a bit with tool rest height until you find the sweet spot. Main thing is, like with all wood turning tools, ride the bevel. Flip that tool over.
Thanks, I'll give those things a try next time. There is definitely a sweet spot that I'll occasionally hit, but it is usually preceded and followed by a series of sour spots. 😬 Do you just sharpen the underside/less aggressive edge by hand or is there a better way?
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks I use the Oneway jig to sharpen the tool with a router in a table. Sharpen both sides, but very lightly. The termite is a very tough tool and I rarely sharpen it. Don't need to. I have one #3 cutter that is more than 20 years old, and I use the Termite a lot. I have gone as deep as 28" in a vase with the Termite, but with my own handle. Check my webpage at www.hdv.net if you want to see one of my homemade handles. There is also a tutorial in there about using the Termite. I think you will find it under "Tips and Tricks".
Thanks for the tips! I use the router table and jig to sharpen, but I've not tried to sharpen the less aggressive side with it. You're the only person I've ever heard from (or heard of), who seems to like the Termite tool. You've renewed my hope that it is actually a functional tool!
I'm still watching the video. But speaking as a hand tool wood carver, that ring tool looks familiar. Think of it as a scorp, or a crooked knife. I bet that if you take that tool and practice on a piece of wood as if you were going to make a spoon by hand, you would be able to get a handle on how to present the tool on the lathe. The reason it makes a clean cut is that it is a much finer edge, more akin to a knife edge than a typical lathe chisel. I am fascinated by this tool, I wish I had a lathe to try it out. Cherry is my favorite, never get tired of it.
Yeah, it's pretty similar to that, except most scorps I've seen have the bevel on the outside of the curve; the termite tool has the bevel on the inside of the curve. I've played with it in all sorts of presentations to the wood, including rotating the lathe by hand, but taking the bit out and experimenting by hand might be the way to go. It seems to work best when you're cutting straight across the engrain in something like a box, versus a bowl with the sloped sides. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and for watching!
Maybe it's me; but, it seems you are becoming more creative (and daring) with each new project. It's instructive and inspiring to see you take on these greater challenges and turn out some really innovative pieces! Best wishes.
Thanks so much, Skip! A lot of these projects fall within the types of things I make pretty often, I just haven't shared them as videos. Now that I've done all the basic sorts of bowls, I'm trying to add some variety, so that might be partly what you're noticing. I've been putting off doing hollow form and deep hollowing videos, but those are probably coming eventually. I hope you're doing well! Thanks for sharing your observations!
Yeah, sorry about that... do a quick google image search to see it. Or, you might be able to get a good look at it if you pause the video when it's most visible. It's a type of "ring tool" where the cutting blade is a ring with the bevel on the inside. So the shavings pass through the ring as you cut. I hope that helps/makes sense. I need to start remembering to show things like that. Thanks for mentioning it!
The way the tool is made, you have to have a decent gap because there is a set screw that sticks out. Apparently it’s supposed to be that way but it seems like that could have been designed better. You are right though, a smaller gap would probably help. Thanks for watching, David!
Hi Harvey! That’s a good question that I should have answered in the video but didn’t. I went with the faceplate over the tenon just in case I had a nasty catch with that termite tool. Thanks for asking and for watching!
Very nice Chad! I don't know that I've ever seen anyone else turn a natural edge end grain bowl. I may have to try one myself sometime. That termite tool looks very challenging and a little scary!
Hey Chad. Ran across your video while looking for tips on how to make an end grain platter. Interesting use of the ring tool there. I've noticed a couple of things. In most ring tool operations I've seen, people were using balanced wood, using it for precision cutting and boring. I don't know if the Termite is rated for such choppy and unbalanced turning. Another bit of advice would be to get your tool rest closer to the wood. Your initial 3-4inches of cutting were the best, (because of slower speed nearest the center, and that that was the most balanced area on the piece). you were getting more slips an catches the farther you got from center, and, the bigger cut with the ring tool you attempted. Just a couple of things I noticed But hey, if you ain't turnin, you ain't learning, right! Good job. Good video. Keep a goin Chad.
Chad why didnt you leave a foot on that bowl, you had a nice looking profile for a foot at one point but ultimately your left with a bowl of sorts that if anything is put in it it will just fall over.
Hi Chad, nicer piece. I've been pleased with the way the termite handled to turn end-grain lidded boxes, but have never tried a big end grain piece like this. As someone else mentioned, it looks a little scary...
Yeah, that's one of the trade-offs with a bowl like this... The pith was already cracked through all 5" of the blank (note the black line running through the pith), but that can be helpful because the crack will open up and let the wood move without cracking the rim of the bowl. Once the bowl dried, I filled the crack with epoxy dyed black. To keep a bowl like this from cracking in the pith, you'd probably need to turn it extremely thin. I've done some thinner ones that didn't crack as much, but they still had small cracks after drying. Thanks for watching, Eric!
Not a huge fan of the termite tool. I can get it to work pretty well sometimes, but not always. Definitely has a learning curve. I’ll probably pick up a hook tool soon instead; since it’s not a closed ring, it doesn’t clog but it works similarly (and probably also has a learning curve).
Nice job as always man! That termite looks like a pain in the ass to get the hang of hah but looks like it'll be amazing once you figure it out. Also who makes that bowl gouge you were using with the purple handle? Thanks
The purple handle is made by Trent Bosch and the tool I'm using in it is the John Jordan 5/8" V-cut gouge (made by Thompson Tools). The Termite Tool ring eventually snapped on me, so I'm eyeing a hook tool now instead. Thanks for watching!
Yes, ultimately that’s what I used to complete the piece. Just don’t try to cut directly into the growth rings somewhere in the bowl; start at the rim and work toward the center, or vice versa.
Hi chad, lovely bowl! thanks for sharing and I love your spirit. I've just purchased a Termite and haven't used it but I've been doing lots of "watching others" use it. I am wondering if it is your camera angle but it looks like the bit is quite open - around 1 O'clock. . I've seen it used in a more closed 2:30) orientation and it worked really well on both heavy and light cuts.
Hi Selina. Thanks for the kind words! Since recording that video, I did get the hang of the Termite tool. I think I use the words "open" and "closed" opposite of how you do (i.e., when open, the ring is horizontal giving a very aggressive cut; closed, the ring is vertical and has more of a scraping cut). Until you get familiar with it and are comfortable with how the tool engages the wood, entering a cut at 2:30 might give you a bit of a surprise (it can be grabby and dig in very quickly). Even after hollowing several decent sized pieces and gaining some confidence, I made one small slip and had a catch bad enough to snap the ring. My ultimate conclusion is that the Termite Tool isn't worth the time and effort - there are too many other efficient ways to cut end grain and if I'm going to spend that much time learning how a tool works, I'd rather it be a hook tool (because there is no ring to clog with shavings). I hope you have better luck with the Termite than I did! One tip that I received that did help considerably is to use the underside of the ring to cut. The underside is much less aggressive and still achieves a decent cut. As you get the hang of it, flip it back over and try the top edge again. Thanks for watching! Good luck!
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks good to know. I use open for horizontal as well - 12:00 on the clock and closed for 3 or 9. I’ll let you know if it ends up in my unused tools section or go-to! I’m looking forward to experimenting and appreciate the tips. Thanks for sharing, always enjoy your material and just figured how to use the like button on the TV ;)
I also found that it’s easier to start the cut with the tip pretty closed then rotate it so it’s more open and ease your way into that efficient, clean cut. I still have the smaller size tip, so I’m sure I’ll give it a go on some boxes or something. Sometimes I get it to work and sometimes it beats me. I’m sure I’ll revisit it, but now my eye is on the hook tool. 😁
Is that the same piece of wood you started with?? I thought you were going to make a huge bowl and then it ended up so thin. I must have missed something.
Yes, it is the same piece of wood. My finished bowl was the maximum diameter it could possibly be and is 3" tall. I started with a 5" thick slice and predicted about half of that 5" would be waste. You were probably expecting a different style of bowl - deeper with more volume - but that wouldn't have worked with this piece of wood because of how the wood moves as it dries. I've got several videos of larger bowls you can check out, if that's what you're looking for. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! It could have been done with a tenon as well, but I wanted to use the faceplate for the extra stability in case I had a nasty catch. I probably would have removed the same amount of wood either way, so I don’t think I wasted any more than necessary. I usually have a bad habit of not leaving myself enough waste and having to make compromises with the form, so I’m trying to break that. Thanks for watching!
Hi Chad, I had a revelation using the termite tool. While making a box, I was noticing that I was only using one small section of the ring edge to do the actual cutting, and when it needed sharpening there was a a lot of sharp ring left that hadn't even touched wood. So I spun the lathe in the opposite direction, rotated the tool 180 degrees and presented the tool to the wood on the right hand side (as you face the piece), and got to use an unused edge. This effectively doubled the time between sharpening. I imagine you and many other turners have figured this out already, but I hadn't seen it anywhere so I thought I would share it.
Thanks for the tip, Steve! I had the same thought about the unused side of the cutter being wasted, but hadn't considered your solution. Next time I use it, I'll definitely be using that idea! Thanks for watching and sharing your tip!
You just saved me over a hundred bucks! I was considering getting the termite tool but after seeing how much better a bowl gouge does, I’m not so sure I’d want one now. Good video!
very nicely done - and your take on the different challenges with end-grain are spot on!
Thanks for watching!
You make it look easy. Great job.
Thank you! Cheers!
Thanks for the lesson Chad, I just scored a trailer load of free cherry wood. Now I will try an end grain bowl.
really nice piece, Chad! I appreciate your honesty with the challenges of the termite tool. Thanks!
Thanks, Greg! I'll figure it out eventually...
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks Of that, I have no doubt!
I'm glad to see you were as successful as I was with my termite tool. I was feeling guilty that I haven't been using until I saw you try it!
Nice bowl. I think I will try some wet box elder
Yeah, that termite tool is a pain. Glad to hear I'm not the only one!
Very good. Look forward to seeing the finished pics when they come up.
Hey Doug! I actually included the finished pics at the end of the video this time, so you don't have to wait!
Hello from France, very good job👍
Good vision Chad. Can't wait to see it after it is dried and finished.
Hahaha... the photos are at the end of the video this time. Thanks for watching (most of it, anyway)! Just joking... 😉😂
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks OK --- you got me! I watched it again and originally turned it off around 21:50! I won't make that mistake again ;o)
Great work Chad
Steve, the Termite is the right tool, and with wet cherry the hollowing should only take a few minutes. You are using the tool upside down. Turn it over and use the less aggressive side, riding the bevel. I only use the aggressive edge to finish across the bottom inside of the bowl. Also, tuck the handle along your forearm with your right hand holding the handle at the fatter part closer to the ferrule. You will have far more control. Steady your body against the lathe and lean over, or turn in reverse. For deep vases that works best, but is a learning curve. And play a bit with tool rest height until you find the sweet spot. Main thing is, like with all wood turning tools, ride the bevel. Flip that tool over.
Thanks, I'll give those things a try next time. There is definitely a sweet spot that I'll occasionally hit, but it is usually preceded and followed by a series of sour spots. 😬 Do you just sharpen the underside/less aggressive edge by hand or is there a better way?
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks I use the Oneway jig to sharpen the tool with a router in a table. Sharpen both sides, but very lightly. The termite is a very tough tool and I rarely sharpen it. Don't need to. I have one #3 cutter that is more than 20 years old, and I use the Termite a lot. I have gone as deep as 28" in a vase with the Termite, but with my own handle. Check my webpage at www.hdv.net if you want to see one of my homemade handles. There is also a tutorial in there about using the Termite. I think you will find it under "Tips and Tricks".
Thanks for the tips! I use the router table and jig to sharpen, but I've not tried to sharpen the less aggressive side with it. You're the only person I've ever heard from (or heard of), who seems to like the Termite tool. You've renewed my hope that it is actually a functional tool!
I'm still watching the video. But speaking as a hand tool wood carver, that ring tool looks familiar. Think of it as a scorp, or a crooked knife. I bet that if you take that tool and practice on a piece of wood as if you were going to make a spoon by hand, you would be able to get a handle on how to present the tool on the lathe. The reason it makes a clean cut is that it is a much finer edge, more akin to a knife edge than a typical lathe chisel. I am fascinated by this tool, I wish I had a lathe to try it out. Cherry is my favorite, never get tired of it.
Yeah, it's pretty similar to that, except most scorps I've seen have the bevel on the outside of the curve; the termite tool has the bevel on the inside of the curve. I've played with it in all sorts of presentations to the wood, including rotating the lathe by hand, but taking the bit out and experimenting by hand might be the way to go. It seems to work best when you're cutting straight across the engrain in something like a box, versus a bowl with the sloped sides. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and for watching!
Neat looking bowl
Beautiful bowl, Chad. 🙂🙂🙂 I think I will try to turn an end grain bowl. 👍👍🙂❤️🪵
Go for it! Maybe start with something smaller than I did though, unless you're up for the challenge! Good luck!
Very nice! I'll need to give on of these a try. Never done a thin shallow bowl like this with a natural edge before.
Maybe it's me; but, it seems you are becoming more creative (and daring) with each new project. It's instructive and inspiring to see you take on these greater challenges and turn out some really innovative pieces! Best wishes.
Thanks so much, Skip! A lot of these projects fall within the types of things I make pretty often, I just haven't shared them as videos. Now that I've done all the basic sorts of bowls, I'm trying to add some variety, so that might be partly what you're noticing. I've been putting off doing hollow form and deep hollowing videos, but those are probably coming eventually. I hope you're doing well! Thanks for sharing your observations!
Please show a picture of the piece 3 months after it dried.
Would liked to have seen some sort of close-up of that termite tool you referred to. I'm pretty new at all this and I have no idea what is amounts to.
Yeah, sorry about that... do a quick google image search to see it. Or, you might be able to get a good look at it if you pause the video when it's most visible. It's a type of "ring tool" where the cutting blade is a ring with the bevel on the inside. So the shavings pass through the ring as you cut. I hope that helps/makes sense. I need to start remembering to show things like that. Thanks for mentioning it!
Chad: I like your videos. I was thinking maybe your tool rest was too far away from the bowl. When I do that I get a lot of chatter.
The way the tool is made, you have to have a decent gap because there is a set screw that sticks out. Apparently it’s supposed to be that way but it seems like that could have been designed better. You are right though, a smaller gap would probably help. Thanks for watching, David!
Is there a reason that you didn't make a tenon to hollow it out? Turned out really well whatever!!
Hi Harvey! That’s a good question that I should have answered in the video but didn’t. I went with the faceplate over the tenon just in case I had a nasty catch with that termite tool. Thanks for asking and for watching!
Very nice Chad! I don't know that I've ever seen anyone else turn a natural edge end grain bowl. I may have to try one myself sometime. That termite tool looks very challenging and a little scary!
Thanks, Tim! The termite tool certainly was intimidating in the beginning. It would probably help reduce the scary factor if it were heavier/sturdier.
nice work end grains. why curtt pcs. so. big you take off 4"or 5" of wood
Hey Chad. Ran across your video while looking for tips on how to make an end grain platter. Interesting use of the ring tool there. I've noticed a couple of things. In most ring tool operations I've seen, people were using balanced wood, using it for precision cutting and boring. I don't know if the Termite is rated for such choppy and unbalanced turning.
Another bit of advice would be to get your tool rest closer to the wood. Your initial 3-4inches of cutting were the best, (because of slower speed nearest the center, and that that was the most balanced area on the piece).
you were getting more slips an catches the farther you got from center, and, the bigger cut with the ring tool you attempted.
Just a couple of things I noticed
But hey, if you ain't turnin, you ain't learning, right!
Good job. Good video.
Keep a goin Chad.
Chad why didnt you leave a foot on that bowl, you had a nice looking profile for a foot at one point but ultimately your left with a bowl of sorts that if anything is put in it it will just fall over.
Hi Chad, nicer piece. I've been pleased with the way the termite handled to turn end-grain lidded boxes, but have never tried a big end grain piece like this. As someone else mentioned, it looks a little scary...
I have had somewhat better luck with it with vases and boxes, as well, but figured I'd give it go with something bigger. Thanks for watching!
I like your style!
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
Doesn't the pith tend to crack? Or is cherry one of those woods with a more stable pith?
Yeah, that's one of the trade-offs with a bowl like this... The pith was already cracked through all 5" of the blank (note the black line running through the pith), but that can be helpful because the crack will open up and let the wood move without cracking the rim of the bowl. Once the bowl dried, I filled the crack with epoxy dyed black. To keep a bowl like this from cracking in the pith, you'd probably need to turn it extremely thin. I've done some thinner ones that didn't crack as much, but they still had small cracks after drying. Thanks for watching, Eric!
DAMN COMMERCIALS
I've wondered about that termite tool... what's your option on it?
Not a huge fan of the termite tool. I can get it to work pretty well sometimes, but not always. Definitely has a learning curve. I’ll probably pick up a hook tool soon instead; since it’s not a closed ring, it doesn’t clog but it works similarly (and probably also has a learning curve).
Nice job as always man! That termite looks like a pain in the ass to get the hang of hah but looks like it'll be amazing once you figure it out. Also who makes that bowl gouge you were using with the purple handle? Thanks
The purple handle is made by Trent Bosch and the tool I'm using in it is the John Jordan 5/8" V-cut gouge (made by Thompson Tools). The Termite Tool ring eventually snapped on me, so I'm eyeing a hook tool now instead. Thanks for watching!
Who makes the purple handled bowlgouge❓🤔
The gouge is John Jordan (5/8”) and the handle is Trent Bosch.
Thank you
Could a normal bowl gouge be used ??
Yes, ultimately that’s what I used to complete the piece. Just don’t try to cut directly into the growth rings somewhere in the bowl; start at the rim and work toward the center, or vice versa.
Hi chad, lovely bowl! thanks for sharing and I love your spirit. I've just purchased a Termite and haven't used it but I've been doing lots of "watching others" use it. I am wondering if it is your camera angle but it looks like the bit is quite open - around 1 O'clock. . I've seen it used in a more closed 2:30) orientation and it worked really well on both heavy and light cuts.
Hi Selina. Thanks for the kind words! Since recording that video, I did get the hang of the Termite tool. I think I use the words "open" and "closed" opposite of how you do (i.e., when open, the ring is horizontal giving a very aggressive cut; closed, the ring is vertical and has more of a scraping cut). Until you get familiar with it and are comfortable with how the tool engages the wood, entering a cut at 2:30 might give you a bit of a surprise (it can be grabby and dig in very quickly). Even after hollowing several decent sized pieces and gaining some confidence, I made one small slip and had a catch bad enough to snap the ring. My ultimate conclusion is that the Termite Tool isn't worth the time and effort - there are too many other efficient ways to cut end grain and if I'm going to spend that much time learning how a tool works, I'd rather it be a hook tool (because there is no ring to clog with shavings). I hope you have better luck with the Termite than I did! One tip that I received that did help considerably is to use the underside of the ring to cut. The underside is much less aggressive and still achieves a decent cut. As you get the hang of it, flip it back over and try the top edge again. Thanks for watching! Good luck!
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks good to know. I use open for horizontal as well - 12:00 on the clock and closed for 3 or 9. I’ll let you know if it ends up in my unused tools section or go-to! I’m looking forward to experimenting and appreciate the tips. Thanks for sharing, always enjoy your material and just figured how to use the like button on the TV ;)
I also found that it’s easier to start the cut with the tip pretty closed then rotate it so it’s more open and ease your way into that efficient, clean cut. I still have the smaller size tip, so I’m sure I’ll give it a go on some boxes or something. Sometimes I get it to work and sometimes it beats me. I’m sure I’ll revisit it, but now my eye is on the hook tool. 😁
Is that the same piece of wood you started with?? I thought you were going to make a huge bowl and then it ended up so thin. I must have missed something.
Yes, it is the same piece of wood. My finished bowl was the maximum diameter it could possibly be and is 3" tall. I started with a 5" thick slice and predicted about half of that 5" would be waste. You were probably expecting a different style of bowl - deeper with more volume - but that wouldn't have worked with this piece of wood because of how the wood moves as it dries. I've got several videos of larger bowls you can check out, if that's what you're looking for. Thanks for watching!
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks wow in the video it looked bigger than 5 inches. Cameras are deceiving. It’s a great bowl 👍
is this a how not to do it video?
Nice work!!! What was the finished size?
Thank you! It is about 12"x10"x3". As it dried, it became slightly more conical and shank about 1/2" in diameter. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
nice job man, that tool looks frustrating
Thanks! Yes, it sure is...
great bowl! is there a reason you didnt shape the outside first creating a tenon? now you cut off a lot more wood than needed, or am i wrong?
Thank you! It could have been done with a tenon as well, but I wanted to use the faceplate for the extra stability in case I had a nasty catch. I probably would have removed the same amount of wood either way, so I don’t think I wasted any more than necessary. I usually have a bad habit of not leaving myself enough waste and having to make compromises with the form, so I’m trying to break that. Thanks for watching!