@@LoyalMoses I definitely agree with @adamchambers7502 . this is what tinkerers and makers want. Direct to the point, no flashy music or animations, we want practical, and straightforward information. We're sick of benchies, we want real-world examples. 10/10
How does this guy only have 10k subs? This is good work here. The audio is great, the video shots are great, and the content is true. I have both printers and he is spot on. I wonder though, if the model has bodies and split into parts, the imperfection can probably be overcome using overlap on that specific part.
Very true or even run the calibration for the material / flow calibration then that way as the X1C is using Lidar to adjust flow, the P1S will have been calibrated correctly. I have re run this exact model and there were zero differences between the two. I also own many X1C and P1S machines. The P1S is phenomenal for the price point. But i agree great videos and correct information that can be recreated at home. Genuine honest reviewing.
I have been kicking around between the X1C and P1S. I think the X1C is getting the nod if I go with it, mainly because I am planning to print in PC, Nylon and such. Yes, I can upgrade the P1S with the hardened gears, and nozzle, etc., but I'm kind of done with the "Tinkering" aspect of the hobby after nearly 15 years of doing it (yea, started in 2009 when the Mendel designs were released). I'm at the point where my Ender3 and CR-6SE are just not up to the task, and require me too much time to mess with after thousands and thousands of hours of print time. it is time for a new machine. I'll put these with my home built Mendel from 2009, and my i3 home built unit. Forever to be displayed in the shop. :)
As a noob... will be my first 3Dprinter, I am inclined to understand that you are exposing this correctly... so as I am vacillating between the P1S and the X1 Carbon, the answer I need to close my decision... The X1 C, in terms of its flexibility and output capability and variety, does it produce ALL its functionality if used standalone(NO CLOUD, ZERO CLOUD except for updates) ? What would I lose using it standalone that I would not care about... or care about?
@@LoyalMoses Still haven't pulled the trigger. Personally I need build space for some designs. They aren't TALL, they are just LARGE in surface area. One print is for a bike chain guard. 260mm in diameter, but only 10mm tall. I could divide it into 4 pieces and do a glue job, but I don't want to deal with that. I even looked at building a Voron, but now? Probably not. Again, I'm so over the tinkering side of it having built a few machines from nuts/bolts/printed parts, etc.
@@DormantIdeasNIQ You are CLOUD BASED for more than your firmware with the Bambu. Matter of fact, more and more are forcing you to deal with the cloud to print in some way shape or form. If you don't want to deal with potential issues with using the cloud, stick with basic printers like an Ender3 (though I think those too now connect to the cloud for print management). Personally my 6SE and Ender3 are hooked to Octoprint, but I have everything closed off so it can't be used from outside the shop network I have. I'm the only one that has access to that network (or cares to) in the house. I doubt my wife even knows we have a "shop" network. LOL.
Good take on these 2 printers. I would like to see the close up of the vise grips to see the first layer issues and compare the prints. Thank you for this great insight!
Thank you for this video. I live in a small space and actually ordered the P1S because I have a bird that I didn't want to fly into an open printer haha. It's nice to see that I made a good choice to stay with the P1 instead up the more expensive X1.
If you have a bird, it should never be in the same room as the printer anyway, and the room should be preferably negative-pressure ventilated. Birds are ridiculously sensitive to volatile chemicals, like, say, ofdgassing from hot melting plastic
Thank you for this video. It’s was straight to the facts. I’ve watched about half a dozen videos comparing the two and yours was the most straight forward. Thank you!
Thank you for your honest breakdown! Quick question: The process of upgrading the gear and extruder for the P1S should be exactly the same as the P1P right?
Wow! Thank you for the Super Thanks! 💜 Yes, the upgrade is exactly the same. I’d highly recommend those upgrades so you can print carbon fiber or other more filaments without issue.
P1S with AMS is $950. This is amazing value! I have X1C with AMS and plan to get P1S with AMS, to replace my 3 years old, fully working but slow Prusa MK3S, at my printing farm. My Prusa MK3S printed around 150KGs of PETG filament, without any problems and barely any maintenance.
the ams is cool but i haven't really used it too much(more than on color on a print) after you do a few cool prints with it the bonus wares off as you have to purge nearly as much as what you are printing. it is however very useful for say you wanna print petg one print then the next you wanna do abs it is so easy to switch just a click of a button in the slicer. i think unless you are going to use the multiple colors a lot its not really worth it
I posted this on your 23 machine buy or not buy video..... I just wanted to post this again here only because your talking P1S. Loved the video and looking forward to more of your expertise. I brought a Bambu Labs PSI Combo with the AMS and had it all up and running within the 15 minutes from unpacking the box to printing my first print with 2 minutes to spare just like Bambu Labs advertised. I started printing everything from poop containers, fridgets, signs, filament spools, and tons of other stuff along with a rack to hold up to 66 boxes/rolls of Bambu and Sunlu filament in their boxes. I've never owned or operated a 3 D Printer before. I've learned so much from trial and error with things like heater head temp changes to unclogging the head, changing build plate temps to help different filaments stick better or not. I printed off LED Risers in order to install more lighting in the print chamber. It's great and I love it. Thanks for all your help with your videos..... FYI, I've had the printer since the last week in Nov 2023 and as of today Feb 2024 I've used a little over 18 rolls of filament, printed hundreds of pieces and have 752 hours of print time on the P1S. I am proud to say that with that 752 hours of print time I've only had 3 issues with it and was able to solve those issues within a few hours. The P1S has been running almost continuously since I got it. I am definitely addicted to it. Now that I've practiced for the past 5 weeks almost non-stopped I'm thinking it's time to find a way to make a little money with this beautiful machine. Any ideas would be helpful..... Thanks again for all that you do......
Thank you for this message and the other as well! I really appreciate you taking the time to share with me and I’m also super happy that you are enjoying your machine! Are you in our discord?!
Using your affiliate link now to purchase my P1S. I really appreciate your video on the printers, and the Polymaker videos are as equally helpful. I'll be using your affiliate links there as well. Glad I can give something back after all the information you created. Things have aligned so much for my business this last month, and as I prepare new content, 3d printing will have a place in addition to the CNC and lasers in the shop that we use.
I am so happy to hear this, congratulations on the growth and potential! Also, thank you for using my links, that is incredibly kind! I can't wait to hear how everything progresses!
Can the P1S with the necessary upgrades print Polycarbonate and nylon just as well as the X1C? Really leaning towards the P1S after this video. It says its capable on the website.
Absolutely! The enclosure makes it possible, and an upgraded extruder gear and nozzle are all that is necessary to add to your order. You’ll want to make sure you have a good bed adhesive, just like what we use on our industrial machines. Vision Miner NanoPolymer works incredibly well. I can’t recommend it more!
Thank you, ! wasn't sure about whether to go for the P1S or the X1C, the more expensive machine has some nice features but I print PLA mostly and this has made my decision easier!
I was looking at getting my first printer, and was having trouble deciding between a p1p and a p1s.. mainly because I know nothing about 3d printing at this point. Thank you for making this vid, I'll be grabbing a p1s.
If I add a hardened steel nozzle on the Bambu P1s, would I be able to run CF-PETG without any other modifications? If I wanted to be able to run carbon fiber nylon or CF-PET, only then I would have to get a different hotend? I am trying to make sure I understood your last statement about the P1s. Thank you for your time.
I like your videos dude. The RUclips algorithm found you and I like what it found. Subscribed Thank you so much for doing a comparison without using PLA. Thank you!
I think you just taught me something. That's why I subscribed. You mentioned that you noticed something on the first layer and that's flow related. Correct me if I'm wrong which I know I am because I'm the novice. I always thought you left first layer at 100 %. Should I change my initial flow rate to match the flow rate of non-initial layers?
Flow rate can be adjusted on bottom and top layers if you are interested in detailed fine-tuning, but that isn't very common. Most of the time, you can simply adjust flow rate for your top layer, and leave it at that.
i wonder if using a 0.2 mm for high detail printing would make the difference. at that point though i would just use resin for high detailed printing. thinking of pulling the trigger on p1s with hardened extruder, nozzle, and print mat. with AMS. thanks for this video. cant wait to ditch my constantly breaking ender 3 that gave me nothing but frustration.
Absolutely! 0.2mm nozzle performs crazy good on CoreXY machines because flow is so low the heater has no problem keeping filament flowing. I am so impressed with these machines! If you do grab one, I’d be grateful if you considered my affiliate link! loyal.ms/bambu - it helps a lot! 💜
The issue I have is deciding between the P1S and the Qidi X-Max. You give up a well polished product for a heated chamber and build volume. Would love to hear people’s thoughts. First printer.
quick question if you have time, recently my prints from my p1s started having tiny holes or gaps in the walls of the prints and i cant figure out what is causing it for the life of me, I've dried my filament and even tested it on another printer and its not the filament as its prints fine on my other printer. and I haven't changed any settings i use the default settings for the p1s and for the bambu pla basic. its printed perfect for almost a year and all of a sudden a few days ago this started with nothing being changed... any advice or tips you have would be greatly appreciated. :) PS love your videos.
Great content, subbed immediately! You just confirmed my reasoning and P1S is on it's way. Looking forward to see how it compares to my Raise3D Pro2 in consistency with which I had 100% print success and 0% issues for well over a year now printing almost non-stop. Again, great content and superb quality 👊
As I don’t have a separate room for printing, the Bambu Lab printers are too loud for me. But speed isn’t so important for me, so my question is: are there „quite mode“ profiles in the slicer? Do you think, this is possible?
They have a “silent” mode, which essentially prints far slower and without nearly as much fan noise. Also yes, you can control fan speed in the slicer for your prints and could create a profile that was quieter than standard.
As a former R&D engineer who spent lots of time with 3D printers and mostly worked on structural designs. I am keen to get the X1C for my art studio even though it will be overkill. Then your video came in my feed... I will mostly be using it for art studio brackets or mountain bike brackets. So I was on the fence if to go P1S or X1C. But if they can both do ABS just fine I will get the P1S. If I need more printer, then that will be a great problem to have. Thanks for this video!
Great review!! I'm considering getting the P1s after having the A1, suddenly thinking of getting the X1. But after viewing your review, I'm happy to get the P1s with AMS, if I have the money to spend, I'll get another P1s without AMS. Two is better than one, right? ha!
Surprisingly good! With PLA, you’ll want the door or top open, and with ABS even with the doors closed, you will want fresh air in the room, and close ventilation or fully ventilated to be safe.
PLA is a very soft polymer with low tolerance to high temperatures, and prone to heat-creep. If heat cannot escape the enclosure, the heat in the melt zone of the hot end will eventually travel upwards and cause the PLA to be softened prematurely and a jam will occur. Opening the front door, and / or having the top removed prevents heat build up in the chamber. Short answer, yes, always print PLA with the door open and / or top removed. Also, this is the same for our industrial 3D printers in the studio.
Man I just found you video thank you but can I print carbon fiber on the p1s or can I upgrade it to do carbon fiber I don't want to spend the money on a x1c cause I will only be doing carbon printing once a month
As someone looking at getting into 3D printing, the Bambu series look like the best place to start. The A1 is really good, but I'm not sure about a bed slinger. I'm probably going to print mostly in PLA, at least at first, but buying a P1S or X1C will kind of future-proof my needs if I decide to get into PETG, ABS, etc. My only issue with those printers is the small-ish build volume. Looking at the Qidi printers, or the K1-Max, they have significantly more build volume, but also seem to have some issues and their infrastructure for parts, etc. doesn't seem as deep. The user experience with Bambu also seems to be the most solid out there. Honestly, if they came out with "max" size printer with a 300mm+ cubed build volume, my decision would be made. I get that the lidar is cool in the X1C, but the P1S would be just fine for my purposes, except for the low-rent screen interface. Even the A1's interface is better than that. Hard decision.
My Creality CR-10s just died and instead of replacing the motherboard, I decided to upgrade because of the inconsistency of its prints. Does the Bambu x1c print more consistently than the p1s because of the lidar and spaghetti protection? My cr-10s messed up every other print in any number of ways, so I'm really looking for a printer that will print almost always.
Hey I really enjoyed your video. Now I only print in pla now and have only gotten one spool of TPU. I plan on sticking with just these two for now. But which would you recommend between the p1S and the X 1C. I’ve had and Ender 3 pro for 2 years now with a sonic pad. I’m just ready for better print quality and tired of always messing with the calibration set ups and tuning.
Thank you! If budget is a concern, go with the P1S, you will REALLY enjoy it. It is an INCREDIBLE machine, and it will change your entire 3D printing world. If you can, get it with the AMS package!
Thanks for a awesome video, I am in two minds as to which on to get as well. My question has the X1Carbon improved a lot since it was launched or since this review. Has the Lidar firmware been improved etc. Basically a big improvement ? Thanks
Came here from watching another video on the same topic. One sucked, the other was no nonsense and informative. I bet you can guess which one was yours. Thanks.
Can the P1S print Polycarbonate out of the box? If not, which upgrades/accessories are recommend. Which brands of PC would work best with this printer?
I’d recommend the hardened steel gears and hardened steel nozzle upgrades! Otherwise you could do some damage with polycarbonate, as it’s quite abrasive. I really liked 3DXTech PC in the past, also Polymaker does a good PC from what I’ve been told.
@@LoyalMoses Would the 0.4mm upgraded nozzle be appropriate for small-medium sized builds? I don't care much for extreme detail, I wanted to use PC for structure parts in context of engineering. What would be a good way to combine a bunch of medium sized PC prints into one larger durable structure?
@@AQN_PU-244 0.4mm will work, as long as temps stay high. 0.5 or 0.6mm is going to be safer, less potential for clogging, just make sure you configure this in the slicer.
My enclosed well p1p prints asa almost exactly the same as my x1c. I've calibrated all my filaments in Ocra slicer for both machines though so I don't use the lidar.
@@1Kingcb that makes sense! Also, awesome!!! If you remember, I’d appreciate it if you’d consider using my affiliate link! loyal.ms/bambu - it helps a lot! 💜
When you say you calibrated your filaments on your p1p, are you checking your flow rate with a cube or another print? Is there a test pattern like pressure advance or linear advance that is available?
This video helped me decide between the two. Have been thinking about it in and off for a few months, and hadn't found a video that quite highlighted the details in the difference between the two. Looking for something to compliment my UP300 as I look to start printing more parts.
UP300 owners seem few & far between. Good to see someone else using an UP300 👍 I'm annoyed with myself for buying too soon then the UP300D came out 🤦♂️ Other brands are tempting for a second machine to run 2 together.
@@LoyalMoses I ended up with a P1S and have absolutely no regrets. I have not had a single failed print, with fairly complex designs (a modelled leather texture of 0.5mm height on the skin of a model, approx 17 million triangles total). It prints it absolutely flawlessly at almost 2x the speed of my UP300. The same model, same layer height infill etc is 14h on my UP300 and 8.5h on the Bambu P1S. Some of the time saving is tree support vs traditional, since UP Studio doesn't do tree supports, but a lot of it is the fact that I have the Bambu cranked to 450mm/s on almost every single feature while the UP300 starts seeing print defects at speeds above 120mm/s.
@@SNAFU_24_7 I found the UP300 to be a fantastic first printer. Absurd price aside, it is an incredibly well designed machine that has given me 4 years of amazing prints. It has its moments, but they are in my opinion much less troublesome than hobbyist printers. As someone who picked up 3d printing to complement my other hobbies the Tiertime UP300 printer and now the Bambu P1S have been incredibly reliable, require infrequent calibration and adjustments allowing me to focus on the design and fit of my parts without having to add the hobby of tuning a printer. I calibrate/level the bed of the UP300 maybe once every 6 months. Slide the build plate out, remove print, slide it back in and start the next print. Both printers opened up a world of access to custom parts without being a timesoak themselves. I'll encourage everyone into 3d printing to consider spending that bit more for an entry level commercial printer capable of printing engineering filaments if that's something you have a use for. But even for just PLA, the reliability and detail these machines are capable of and their ample bed size, repeatable results and hassle free operation pays for itself in saved time, misprints and calibration alone.
I'm going to order 1 or the other in September. Id rather have the P1Scombo because of the price. But it all depends on how fast they take to send it. The X1C combo is in stock all the time but Ive seen people complaining about lengthy wait times on the P1S. With the P1S gaining popularity Id imagine the lead time is going to get worse by the time i can order mine.
Stumbled across your channel recently as I am wanting to get into this amazing hobby. I used to be a guy that started cheap and worked their way up, but I just dont have the time and patience to "tinker" with something needlessly. That's not to say I dont like to problem solve and be creative as I do, but I want something that is generally going to work out of the box and any tinkering is done because I want to upgrade or I choose to do it. Anyway, going with what you say, I think I might just spend the extra and get the X1. You have earned a new subscriber for sure. Thanks
Wife & I just got our first P1S a few days ago. Which also happens to be our first 3D printer. We were both impressed with the print quality. I’m personally looking to print internal PC case components. However I’m not sure which material to use & if I should buy another P1S or get the X1C as research has shown PLA warps in high temps.
Congratulations! This is just awesome! PLA has the lowest softening temperature of all filaments, but it shouldn't be getting that hot inside of a PC, if it does, there are other problems!
P1s should be able to print ABS which should hold up under most conditions plastics can hold up in, it is the material they use to make extruder housings for the voron hotends so it is going to hold up to fair amount of heat!
I’m wondering if the same can be said about the A1? If the enclosure isn’t needed can one save even more money going that route?So the question being, can you tell a difference in print quality between the A1 and Bambu P series 🤔
What extruder comes with the PS1? I know that the 0.2 can do fine details and that you have to upgrade the extruder to do materials that have carbon glass in them is that right? But what comes with it? Someone said buy the .02 and the .06 and the hot material components? Super newbie here. Just started watching videos yesterday before I make my purchase. I plan on getting the PS1. It's just for printing toys and fun things with my kids. Nothing more for now. Subscribed
Hey! Welcome and thanks for the sub! Most printers ship with a 0.4mm nozzle, some like LulzBot ship with a 0.5mm nozzle. If you are just starting, don't worry at all about ordering extra nozzles to change. Start simple, print, learn and enjoy it, there is PLENTY of time to upgrade and know what you want to do next. P1S is an AWESOME machine! I hope you get it!
I just got the P1S Had it for a few days, it does print great, I am excited to use Different materials, but I do think there are somethings they need to fix, the screen is useless, I tried to print from it and had to go to the PC or app to get it to print. Another thing that is buggy is the sensors. it has a filament detector in the hot end and it will error even with it empty. the cover for the hotend as well causes errors. But the biggest weak point is the wifi, it drops off and is very weak. I usually have strong signal, but the screen shows the signal as 1 bar. Most of the errors won't clear until you reboot. Now don't get me wrong, I love the build quality and the print quality and think the price is fair, but lets be honest, its a very buggy product with great potential. Its still the best right now. Hopefully firmware will help in the future.
Oh wow! I’d contact support with each of your concerns to make sure they get resolved! It’s a great machine, and you want it to work at 100%! Also, congrats!
@@LoyalMoses I have worked out most of the bugs and now am in love with the Bambu slicer/Orca slicer, really useful features and prints direct to my Bambu and V400
@pnowak2 it was firmware that solved most of my problems, once I got to the 3 firmware upgrade all the problems were solved. So that means it was not a real problem but a software problem
Hi! Thanks for your review! Is there a difference in terms of noise level between the p1s and the x1c (when doors are closed) or is it similar? Thanks a lot!
Depends on if it was me or my son that applied it, my son is a little more liberal with the glue! LOL We run glue on almost all machines here. They get a good cleaning, then some glue stick.
Hey, what would be your choice between the P1S and Qidi X Max 3 ? I like the P1S more than Qidi but i would love to have the print size of Qidi X Max 3. Thank you.
Thanks for all your information, I'm new to printing but it looks like the P1P for me. Keep up the great work! If you need to thin your herd of printers let me know, I can help.
The general answer is no, it’s really too small for any real wearable helmets printed in one piece. 300mm cubed printers are what we call helmet class machines. You can print thin shell helmets or child sized helmets, or split larger ones up and print them for gluing back together on the X1C.
There are a TON of them. Sovol sv08, Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus, Raise3D Pro 2 (look for a good used one), Comgrow T300… a lot of these new 300mm or larger machines are producing great quality. Find your budget, then get the best machine you can for it.
I’m in research stage and 100% green . I am considering an enclosed printer cause I don’t want to be restricted on what material I can use . My question what material should I use for making parts for a grow room . The parts will be in soil all the time , or in a hydroponic system .it will be exposed. To warm humid environment , and UV light from the grow lights . And I guess food safe . It would be very appreciated if some one could tell me what I should use for filament and does such filament require an enclosed printer . Thank you so much for help advise knowledge!
@@matthewthompson7012 ah! Each filament will be a little different, but Polymaker has PolyLite settings in the slicer by default and that so far works with a lot of variety of filaments. Also, thank you!
@@LoyalMoses yes I have a lot of other filaments and want to use on my BambuLab printer. Unfortunately the printer doesn't have internet. So I print the SD card. And I saw that it didn't do the level check on it when I picked on the printer. But sometimes when I start the print it just uses the first filament and not the one I want.
im on the fence to witch will be my first printer and my first experience into the 3d printing world. I just want this to be a fun hobby to learn a little cad and to build useful things with printer that i could use in everyday life, what would you guys recommend for a newbie?
Thanks ! received my p1s 2 days ago and printed my first ever benchie and it came out flawless! I giggled like a little school girls . love it so far cant wait to do more prints!@@LoyalMoses
Anyone point me in the right direction for the fan shrouds for the P1S upgrade? The MC fan, and the Cabin fan? I have been printing in the P1P in a tent up till the time I got the enclosure done, the back for the P1S won't be available till 7th of next month, so looking to get ready for it... Bambu Lab.. if you see this.. can you please get those files up and available for us? OR.. are you selling these? Either or.. we need those files.
no stupid music, straight to the point, no benchies, engineering filament, functional part. subbed.
Thanks! Hope my other videos don’t run you off then! We try and make content for all audiences! 👊🔥
Yes
Same!
@@LoyalMoses I definitely agree with @adamchambers7502 . this is what tinkerers and makers want. Direct to the point, no flashy music or animations, we want practical, and straightforward information. We're sick of benchies, we want real-world examples. 10/10
Autistic daydream here
How does this guy only have 10k subs? This is good work here. The audio is great, the video shots are great, and the content is true. I have both printers and he is spot on. I wonder though, if the model has bodies and split into parts, the imperfection can probably be overcome using overlap on that specific part.
That is very kind! Thank you very much! I'm new and working as fast as I can to bring in more subs! 💜
Very true or even run the calibration for the material / flow calibration then that way as the X1C is using Lidar to adjust flow, the P1S will have been calibrated correctly. I have re run this exact model and there were zero differences between the two. I also own many X1C and P1S machines. The P1S is phenomenal for the price point. But i agree great videos and correct information that can be recreated at home. Genuine honest reviewing.
4 months later: Over 22K. People are catching on
7 months later he’s tripled his subscribers (I just subscribed) I enjoy his vids!
I have been kicking around between the X1C and P1S. I think the X1C is getting the nod if I go with it, mainly because I am planning to print in PC, Nylon and such. Yes, I can upgrade the P1S with the hardened gears, and nozzle, etc., but I'm kind of done with the "Tinkering" aspect of the hobby after nearly 15 years of doing it (yea, started in 2009 when the Mendel designs were released). I'm at the point where my Ender3 and CR-6SE are just not up to the task, and require me too much time to mess with after thousands and thousands of hours of print time. it is time for a new machine. I'll put these with my home built Mendel from 2009, and my i3 home built unit. Forever to be displayed in the shop. :)
That is the top of the line machine on the market right now! Wow!
As a noob... will be my first 3Dprinter, I am inclined to understand that you are exposing this correctly... so as I am vacillating between the P1S and the X1 Carbon, the answer I need to close my decision... The X1 C, in terms of its flexibility and output capability and variety, does it produce ALL its functionality if used standalone(NO CLOUD, ZERO CLOUD except for updates) ? What would I lose using it standalone that I would not care about... or care about?
@@LoyalMoses Still haven't pulled the trigger. Personally I need build space for some designs. They aren't TALL, they are just LARGE in surface area. One print is for a bike chain guard. 260mm in diameter, but only 10mm tall. I could divide it into 4 pieces and do a glue job, but I don't want to deal with that. I even looked at building a Voron, but now? Probably not. Again, I'm so over the tinkering side of it having built a few machines from nuts/bolts/printed parts, etc.
@@DormantIdeasNIQ You are CLOUD BASED for more than your firmware with the Bambu. Matter of fact, more and more are forcing you to deal with the cloud to print in some way shape or form.
If you don't want to deal with potential issues with using the cloud, stick with basic printers like an Ender3 (though I think those too now connect to the cloud for print management). Personally my 6SE and Ender3 are hooked to Octoprint, but I have everything closed off so it can't be used from outside the shop network I have. I'm the only one that has access to that network (or cares to) in the house. I doubt my wife even knows we have a "shop" network. LOL.
@@karlloeffler1755 Thanks everyone for all your answers! I would go with the Prusa before I even get near an Ender(bad bad reviews on Enders)
I love how this guy goes straight to the meat of the decision making! I’m going to buy the P1S as budget is a factor to my purchase. Thank you!
AWESOME! I am so glad I could help!
Good take on these 2 printers. I would like to see the close up of the vise grips to see the first layer issues and compare the prints. Thank you for this great insight!
Noted!
Great to see I didn’t made a mistake with my order for a P1s with a AMS 🥳
Such a good machine!!!
Thank you for this video. I live in a small space and actually ordered the P1S because I have a bird that I didn't want to fly into an open printer haha. It's nice to see that I made a good choice to stay with the P1 instead up the more expensive X1.
Great choice and nice thinking about safety for your bird!
If you have a bird, it should never be in the same room as the printer anyway, and the room should be preferably negative-pressure ventilated. Birds are ridiculously sensitive to volatile chemicals, like, say, ofdgassing from hot melting plastic
@@Validole this and definitely don't do resin around them either,
I can sense the absolute sincerity of this comparison. Well done sir!
Thank you for the kind words! 💜
The enclosure for 100 bucks more saves me from failed prints due to yellow lab hair flying into my prints.
Yes! It’s just so good for so cheap.
Same bro. My golden retrievers shed like crazy
keeps my cats at bay also. "WHY CANT I GET IN THERE!!!"
@@CodyDye-j9uPLA+ golden hair multi-filament print.
Or pubic hairs
Thank you for this video. It’s was straight to the facts. I’ve watched about half a dozen videos comparing the two and yours was the most straight forward. Thank you!
Thanks for that!!!
Thank you for your honest breakdown! Quick question: The process of upgrading the gear and extruder for the P1S should be exactly the same as the P1P right?
Wow! Thank you for the Super Thanks! 💜 Yes, the upgrade is exactly the same. I’d highly recommend those upgrades so you can print carbon fiber or other more filaments without issue.
Seeing all the amazing prints from a bambu printer makes me really want to save up for one with the ams
I know! These machines are just crazy good!
P1S with AMS is $950. This is amazing value! I have X1C with AMS and plan to get P1S with AMS, to replace my 3 years old, fully working but slow Prusa MK3S, at my printing farm. My Prusa MK3S printed around 150KGs of PETG filament, without any problems and barely any maintenance.
the ams is cool but i haven't really used it too much(more than on color on a print) after you do a few cool prints with it the bonus wares off as you have to purge nearly as much as what you are printing. it is however very useful for say you wanna print petg one print then the next you wanna do abs it is so easy to switch just a click of a button in the slicer. i think unless you are going to use the multiple colors a lot its not really worth it
@@ZFGFZDGDFG I see it being mainly useful with support interfacing with a soluble filament
High quality video with great content. I wish all youtubers had your audio setup - sounds terrific.
Thank you! Some of our audio falls below standards - still trying to work out how to silence printers in the studio when recording!
I posted this on your 23 machine buy or not buy video..... I just wanted to post this again here only because your talking P1S.
Loved the video and looking forward to more of your expertise. I brought a Bambu Labs PSI Combo with the AMS and had it all up and running within the 15 minutes from unpacking the box to printing my first print with 2 minutes to spare just like Bambu Labs advertised. I started printing everything from poop containers, fridgets, signs, filament spools, and tons of other stuff along with a rack to hold up to 66 boxes/rolls of Bambu and Sunlu filament in their boxes. I've never owned or operated a 3 D Printer before. I've learned so much from trial and error with things like heater head temp changes to unclogging the head, changing build plate temps to help different filaments stick better or not. I printed off LED Risers in order to install more lighting in the print chamber. It's great and I love it. Thanks for all your help with your videos..... FYI, I've had the printer since the last week in Nov 2023 and as of today Feb 2024 I've used a little over 18 rolls of filament, printed hundreds of pieces and have 752 hours of print time on the P1S. I am proud to say that with that 752 hours of print time I've only had 3 issues with it and was able to solve those issues within a few hours. The P1S has been running almost continuously since I got it. I am definitely addicted to it. Now that I've practiced for the past 5 weeks almost non-stopped I'm thinking it's time to find a way to make a little money with this beautiful machine. Any ideas would be helpful..... Thanks again for all that you do......
Thank you for this message and the other as well! I really appreciate you taking the time to share with me and I’m also super happy that you are enjoying your machine! Are you in our discord?!
Using your affiliate link now to purchase my P1S. I really appreciate your video on the printers, and the Polymaker videos are as equally helpful. I'll be using your affiliate links there as well. Glad I can give something back after all the information you created. Things have aligned so much for my business this last month, and as I prepare new content, 3d printing will have a place in addition to the CNC and lasers in the shop that we use.
I am so happy to hear this, congratulations on the growth and potential! Also, thank you for using my links, that is incredibly kind! I can't wait to hear how everything progresses!
the price diff between the P1S and X1C is literally a grand in my currency, this comparison makes my upcoming decision a no-brainer!
Yikes.
6:03 this is the exact sentence I was looking for thanks!
Glad I could help!
Great video! Watching this after having gotten a P1S and I’m agreeing with your sentiments
Thank you! And congratulations! That’s such a good machine!
I only am subscribing because you didn't put stupid music in the video and got straight to the point 🤙🏿
Can the P1S with the necessary upgrades print Polycarbonate and nylon just as well as the X1C? Really leaning towards the P1S after this video.
It says its capable on the website.
Absolutely! The enclosure makes it possible, and an upgraded extruder gear and nozzle are all that is necessary to add to your order.
You’ll want to make sure you have a good bed adhesive, just like what we use on our industrial machines. Vision Miner NanoPolymer works incredibly well.
I can’t recommend it more!
@@LoyalMoses Thank you!
Thank you, ! wasn't sure about whether to go for the P1S or the X1C, the more expensive machine has some nice features but I print PLA mostly and this has made my decision easier!
Fantastic! I am glad I could help!
Thanks for the side by side. Reallly helps making a decision as a first time shopper for a starter printer
You bet! If you have questions, just ask! 💜
Thank you for an excellent review. Simple & to the point!!!! If/when the time comes for an upgrade, it'll be the P1S.
Thanks Joe! You will love it!
I was looking at getting my first printer, and was having trouble deciding between a p1p and a p1s.. mainly because I know nothing about 3d printing at this point. Thank you for making this vid, I'll be grabbing a p1s.
P1S if you have the budget, but either is okay, they print the same!
I have the P1P that I upgraded to the P1S and I haven't looked back at my Ender 3 v2 since. Looking at the Qidi 3 Max for work too.
P1P/P1S are fantastic machines and the X-Max 3! WOW!
If I add a hardened steel nozzle on the Bambu P1s, would I be able to run CF-PETG without any other modifications? If I wanted to be able to run carbon fiber nylon or CF-PET, only then I would have to get a different hotend? I am trying to make sure I understood your last statement about the P1s. Thank you for your time.
YES! You upgrade the nozzle and the extruder gears!
Nice to see more and more of your productions on RUclips. Keep up the good work!
Thank you Joe! 😊
I like your videos dude. The RUclips algorithm found you and I like what it found. Subscribed
Thank you so much for doing a comparison without using PLA. Thank you!
I think you just taught me something. That's why I subscribed. You mentioned that you noticed something on the first layer and that's flow related. Correct me if I'm wrong which I know I am because I'm the novice. I always thought you left first layer at 100 %. Should I change my initial flow rate to match the flow rate of non-initial layers?
Thanks David! Welcome!
Flow rate can be adjusted on bottom and top layers if you are interested in detailed fine-tuning, but that isn't very common. Most of the time, you can simply adjust flow rate for your top layer, and leave it at that.
Perfect video, and coincidentally exactly what I was looking for - an ABS comparison.
Very kind! Thank you! These enclosed machines are just getting better and better with ABSs and ASAs.
i wonder if using a 0.2 mm for high detail printing would make the difference.
at that point though i would just use resin for high detailed printing.
thinking of pulling the trigger on p1s with hardened extruder, nozzle, and print mat. with AMS.
thanks for this video.
cant wait to ditch my constantly breaking ender 3 that gave me nothing but frustration.
Absolutely! 0.2mm nozzle performs crazy good on CoreXY machines because flow is so low the heater has no problem keeping filament flowing.
I am so impressed with these machines! If you do grab one, I’d be grateful if you considered my affiliate link! loyal.ms/bambu - it helps a lot! 💜
The issue I have is deciding between the P1S and the Qidi X-Max. You give up a well polished product for a heated chamber and build volume. Would love to hear people’s thoughts. First printer.
I would choose the P1S for the AMS potential, and the heated chamber if your printing needs require that.
quick question if you have time, recently my prints from my p1s started having tiny holes or gaps in the walls of the prints and i cant figure out what is causing it for the life of me, I've dried my filament and even tested it on another printer and its not the filament as its prints fine on my other printer. and I haven't changed any settings i use the default settings for the p1s and for the bambu pla basic. its printed perfect for almost a year and all of a sudden a few days ago this started with nothing being changed... any advice or tips you have would be greatly appreciated. :) PS love your videos.
That could be under extrusion from a clogged or worn nozzle, I’d recommend changing the hotend, they are inexpensive.
Thanks for watching! 💜
@LoyalMoses will do thanks
Thank you. This was very helpful.
Very welcome!
Amazing video and explanation I immediately subbed
Thank you!!!
Great content, subbed immediately! You just confirmed my reasoning and P1S is on it's way. Looking forward to see how it compares to my Raise3D Pro2 in consistency with which I had 100% print success and 0% issues for well over a year now printing almost non-stop. Again, great content and superb quality 👊
Thank you so much and sorry for replying so late!
Got the P1S 2 weeks ago. Incredible printer for the price.
So awesome you got one!
As I don’t have a separate room for printing, the Bambu Lab printers are too loud for me. But speed isn’t so important for me, so my question is: are there „quite mode“ profiles in the slicer? Do you think, this is possible?
They have a “silent” mode, which essentially prints far slower and without nearly as much fan noise. Also yes, you can control fan speed in the slicer for your prints and could create a profile that was quieter than standard.
As a former R&D engineer who spent lots of time with 3D printers and mostly worked on structural designs. I am keen to get the X1C for my art studio even though it will be overkill. Then your video came in my feed... I will mostly be using it for art studio brackets or mountain bike brackets. So I was on the fence if to go P1S or X1C. But if they can both do ABS just fine I will get the P1S. If I need more printer, then that will be a great problem to have. Thanks for this video!
Great review!! I'm considering getting the P1s after having the A1, suddenly thinking of getting the X1. But after viewing your review, I'm happy to get the P1s with AMS, if I have the money to spend, I'll get another P1s without AMS. Two is better than one, right? ha!
You will LOVE the P1S! Thank you!
@@LoyalMoses can't wait to order it! BBL is taking lunar new year holiday. It is a pain waiting for them to come back. But I fully respect that! Ha!
Make I ask how well the P1S filter or cover the fumes? If I get 1, it will be in my small office.
Surprisingly good! With PLA, you’ll want the door or top open, and with ABS even with the doors closed, you will want fresh air in the room, and close ventilation or fully ventilated to be safe.
Thanks I was struggling to choose for the best price and quality ratio I’m going for the p1s.
Excellent choice!
Hello, The Bambu Lab P1S can print nylon and carbon with some add accesories? Thank you for your review, was amazing!
Absolutely! Grab a hardened steel nozzle and hardened gears from them and upgrade! About a 20 minute upgrade.
Thank you. I have been trying to figure out which one to go with.
No problem! Whichever you choose, I hope it works out well for you!
I have a question, do i need to keeo the door open or the top of the P1S to print PLA? Or its okay to leave it with everything closed?
PLA is a very soft polymer with low tolerance to high temperatures, and prone to heat-creep. If heat cannot escape the enclosure, the heat in the melt zone of the hot end will eventually travel upwards and cause the PLA to be softened prematurely and a jam will occur.
Opening the front door, and / or having the top removed prevents heat build up in the chamber.
Short answer, yes, always print PLA with the door open and / or top removed. Also, this is the same for our industrial 3D printers in the studio.
New sub. I appreciate the review with true, common sense that went into it. Awesome
Thank you for the sub and kind words! I really appreciate that.
Man I just found you video thank you but can I print carbon fiber on the p1s or can I upgrade it to do carbon fiber I don't want to spend the money on a x1c cause I will only be doing carbon printing once a month
You should upgrade nozzle and gears before printing CF
You had me at "it's just you and the slicer"
Haha
Thanks for the video it's exactly what I was looking for
You are so welcome!
As someone looking at getting into 3D printing, the Bambu series look like the best place to start. The A1 is really good, but I'm not sure about a bed slinger. I'm probably going to print mostly in PLA, at least at first, but buying a P1S or X1C will kind of future-proof my needs if I decide to get into PETG, ABS, etc. My only issue with those printers is the small-ish build volume. Looking at the Qidi printers, or the K1-Max, they have significantly more build volume, but also seem to have some issues and their infrastructure for parts, etc. doesn't seem as deep. The user experience with Bambu also seems to be the most solid out there. Honestly, if they came out with "max" size printer with a 300mm+ cubed build volume, my decision would be made. I get that the lidar is cool in the X1C, but the P1S would be just fine for my purposes, except for the low-rent screen interface. Even the A1's interface is better than that. Hard decision.
this is amazing video. thanks for the download . how hard is it to setup the p1s. for printing . please let me know
P1S has an awesome out of box user experience, sets up very quickly and easily!
My Creality CR-10s just died and instead of replacing the motherboard, I decided to upgrade because of the inconsistency of its prints. Does the Bambu x1c print more consistently than the p1s because of the lidar and spaghetti protection? My cr-10s messed up every other print in any number of ways, so I'm really looking for a printer that will print almost always.
Both machines have been extremely reliable, both print identical results. You can’t go wrong with either choice.
Still on the fence about which one to get AND also should I wait because I’d like a larger one 🤔
Either will be great, and you can always grab a Neptune 3 Max for large prints at regular speed, otherwise you may be waiting for sometime.
Thanks! I’m currently considering busing a p1s instead of a x1c because oft the price! This videos was helpful!
Very welcome! It’s a great machine. You’ll be very happy!
I can't wait to buy my p1s next week :D
How exciting! You are going to LOVE it!
@@LoyalMoses yesss!!!!
Hey I really enjoyed your video. Now I only print in pla now and have only gotten one spool of TPU. I plan on sticking with just these two for now. But which would you recommend between the p1S and the X 1C. I’ve had and Ender 3 pro for 2 years now with a sonic pad. I’m just ready for better print quality and tired of always messing with the calibration set ups and tuning.
Thank you! If budget is a concern, go with the P1S, you will REALLY enjoy it. It is an INCREDIBLE machine, and it will change your entire 3D printing world. If you can, get it with the AMS package!
With both printers sharing the same surface/table/stand, do you think vibrations from either could have affected each others quality?
I’m sure at some level yes, but this isn’t rocket science, just melting plastic so I didn’t think it’s anything we’d detect with our eyes.
Thanks for a awesome video, I am in two minds as to which on to get as well. My question has the X1Carbon improved a lot since it was launched or since this review. Has the Lidar firmware been improved etc. Basically a big improvement ? Thanks
Thank you! The X1C is definitely the better machine, but only if you want those more complicated filaments.
Came here from watching another video on the same topic. One sucked, the other was no nonsense and informative. I bet you can guess which one was yours. Thanks.
Can the P1S print Polycarbonate out of the box? If not, which upgrades/accessories are recommend. Which brands of PC would work best with this printer?
I’d recommend the hardened steel gears and hardened steel nozzle upgrades! Otherwise you could do some damage with polycarbonate, as it’s quite abrasive. I really liked 3DXTech PC in the past, also Polymaker does a good PC from what I’ve been told.
@@LoyalMoses Would the 0.4mm upgraded nozzle be appropriate for small-medium sized builds? I don't care much for extreme detail, I wanted to use PC for structure parts in context of engineering. What would be a good way to combine a bunch of medium sized PC prints into one larger durable structure?
@@AQN_PU-244 0.4mm will work, as long as temps stay high. 0.5 or 0.6mm is going to be safer, less potential for clogging, just make sure you configure this in the slicer.
@@AQN_PU-244 jump on our discord and we can help with the parts questions! discord.thelmshow.com
@@LoyalMoses I don't know which channel to ask in, would PC require anything to layer the print bed?
My enclosed well p1p prints asa almost exactly the same as my x1c. I've calibrated all my filaments in Ocra slicer for both machines though so I don't use the lidar.
Yes!!! That is just awesome!
@LoyalMoses I only print on textured pei so lidar doesn't do anything for me. I'll be ordering a P1S hopefully next month.
@@1Kingcb that makes sense! Also, awesome!!! If you remember, I’d appreciate it if you’d consider using my affiliate link! loyal.ms/bambu - it helps a lot! 💜
When you say you calibrated your filaments on your p1p, are you checking your flow rate with a cube or another print? Is there a test pattern like pressure advance or linear advance that is available?
@@lucase764 orca slicer has flow calibration tools and a PA tower as well as temp towers
Can the extruder and hot end on the P1S be upgraded to the hardened steel one that is used on the X1C?
Absolutely! They are available on the website!
This video helped me decide between the two. Have been thinking about it in and off for a few months, and hadn't found a video that quite highlighted the details in the difference between the two.
Looking for something to compliment my UP300 as I look to start printing more parts.
This is great to hear! Thank you! And whichever option you choose, I’m sure you will be very happy!
UP300 owners seem few & far between.
Good to see someone else using an UP300 👍
I'm annoyed with myself for buying too soon then the UP300D came out 🤦♂️
Other brands are tempting for a second machine to run 2 together.
@@LoyalMoses I ended up with a P1S and have absolutely no regrets. I have not had a single failed print, with fairly complex designs (a modelled leather texture of 0.5mm height on the skin of a model, approx 17 million triangles total). It prints it absolutely flawlessly at almost 2x the speed of my UP300.
The same model, same layer height infill etc is 14h on my UP300 and 8.5h on the Bambu P1S. Some of the time saving is tree support vs traditional, since UP Studio doesn't do tree supports, but a lot of it is the fact that I have the Bambu cranked to 450mm/s on almost every single feature while the UP300 starts seeing print defects at speeds above 120mm/s.
@@SNAFU_24_7 I found the UP300 to be a fantastic first printer. Absurd price aside, it is an incredibly well designed machine that has given me 4 years of amazing prints. It has its moments, but they are in my opinion much less troublesome than hobbyist printers. As someone who picked up 3d printing to complement my other hobbies the Tiertime UP300 printer and now the Bambu P1S have been incredibly reliable, require infrequent calibration and adjustments allowing me to focus on the design and fit of my parts without having to add the hobby of tuning a printer.
I calibrate/level the bed of the UP300 maybe once every 6 months. Slide the build plate out, remove print, slide it back in and start the next print.
Both printers opened up a world of access to custom parts without being a timesoak themselves. I'll encourage everyone into 3d printing to consider spending that bit more for an entry level commercial printer capable of printing engineering filaments if that's something you have a use for.
But even for just PLA, the reliability and detail these machines are capable of and their ample bed size, repeatable results and hassle free operation pays for itself in saved time, misprints and calibration alone.
I'm going to order 1 or the other in September. Id rather have the P1Scombo because of the price. But it all depends on how fast they take to send it. The X1C combo is in stock all the time but Ive seen people complaining about lengthy wait times on the P1S. With the P1S gaining popularity Id imagine the lead time is going to get worse by the time i can order mine.
From what I’m seeing right now, a lot of people who ordered last week have already received it or are receiving it Monday or Tuesday!
@@LoyalMoses That's great. Thank you
what did you end up going with@@OhImKiCkiN
Stumbled across your channel recently as I am wanting to get into this amazing hobby. I used to be a guy that started cheap and worked their way up, but I just dont have the time and patience to "tinker" with something needlessly. That's not to say I dont like to problem solve and be creative as I do, but I want something that is generally going to work out of the box and any tinkering is done because I want to upgrade or I choose to do it. Anyway, going with what you say, I think I might just spend the extra and get the X1. You have earned a new subscriber for sure. Thanks
Wow! Thank you and that is a GREAT machine!!!
Wife & I just got our first P1S a few days ago. Which also happens to be our first 3D printer. We were both impressed with the print quality. I’m personally looking to print internal PC case components. However I’m not sure which material to use & if I should buy another P1S or get the X1C as research has shown PLA warps in high temps.
Congratulations! This is just awesome!
PLA has the lowest softening temperature of all filaments, but it shouldn't be getting that hot inside of a PC, if it does, there are other problems!
P1s should be able to print ABS which should hold up under most conditions plastics can hold up in, it is the material they use to make extruder housings for the voron hotends so it is going to hold up to fair amount of heat!
been printing a lot of custom pieces for my pc in PLA, all good. They're not touching heat sources as the cpu or the gpu, though
I’m wondering if the same can be said about the A1? If the enclosure isn’t needed can one save even more money going that route?So the question being, can you tell a difference in print quality between the A1 and Bambu P series 🤔
We will definitely do that once the new A1 arrives!
Heloo !! P1s and x1c same speed of printing ? Thank YOU
What extruder comes with the PS1?
I know that the 0.2 can do fine details and that you have to upgrade the extruder to do materials that have carbon glass in them is that right?
But what comes with it?
Someone said buy the .02 and the .06 and the hot material components?
Super newbie here. Just started watching videos yesterday before I make my purchase. I plan on getting the PS1. It's just for printing toys and fun things with my kids.
Nothing more for now. Subscribed
Hey! Welcome and thanks for the sub!
Most printers ship with a 0.4mm nozzle, some like LulzBot ship with a 0.5mm nozzle.
If you are just starting, don't worry at all about ordering extra nozzles to change. Start simple, print, learn and enjoy it, there is PLENTY of time to upgrade and know what you want to do next.
P1S is an AWESOME machine! I hope you get it!
Did you have to calibrate for different filaments in the p1s? Or just load and print?
Just load and print! It is the best experience that has ever existed in 3D printing.
I just got the P1S Had it for a few days, it does print great, I am excited to use Different materials, but I do think there are somethings they need to fix, the screen is useless, I tried to print from it and had to go to the PC or app to get it to print. Another thing that is buggy is the sensors. it has a filament detector in the hot end and it will error even with it empty. the cover for the hotend as well causes errors. But the biggest weak point is the wifi, it drops off and is very weak. I usually have strong signal, but the screen shows the signal as 1 bar. Most of the errors won't clear until you reboot. Now don't get me wrong, I love the build quality and the print quality and think the price is fair, but lets be honest, its a very buggy product with great potential. Its still the best right now. Hopefully firmware will help in the future.
Oh wow! I’d contact support with each of your concerns to make sure they get resolved! It’s a great machine, and you want it to work at 100%! Also, congrats!
@@LoyalMoses I have worked out most of the bugs and now am in love with the Bambu slicer/Orca slicer, really useful features and prints direct to my Bambu and V400
@@tekolicious8310great news. can you share how you solved your problems for p1s ?
@pnowak2 it was firmware that solved most of my problems, once I got to the 3 firmware upgrade all the problems were solved. So that means it was not a real problem but a software problem
merci@@tekolicious8310
Hi! Thanks for your review! Is there a difference in terms of noise level between the p1s and the x1c (when doors are closed) or is it similar? Thanks a lot!
From what I can tell so far, they are exactly the same.
@@LoyalMoses Thanks for your feedback!
@@jonathus48 anytime!
Practical comparison, conclusion makes sense, PA would also have been interesting but glad you chose a harder filament
This looks to me as though you used glue on the X1C plate but not on the P1S. Any reason for that?
Depends on if it was me or my son that applied it, my son is a little more liberal with the glue! LOL
We run glue on almost all machines here. They get a good cleaning, then some glue stick.
I have been trying to find the benefit of the x1
Awesome!
Hey, what would be your choice between the P1S and Qidi X Max 3 ? I like the P1S more than Qidi but i would love to have the print size of Qidi X Max 3. Thank you.
I would choose the P1S for the AMS potential.
If I was looking at either of these two, to mainly print CF, which would be the pick?
If you have the budget, the X1C because of the interface and it is ready to go for CF.
Could you do a video about X1e vs X1c?
I could!
Thanks for all your information, I'm new to printing but it looks like the P1P for me. Keep up the great work! If you need to thin your herd of printers let me know, I can help.
Thank you! 😆
Your print studio is sick 👍🏻
Thanks! 💜
Thanks for helping me to decide.
You are so welcome! Share when you get it!
Which machine would you recommend for 3d printing shoes? Has to have a work area of 300x300mm.
That would be awesome to do! 300mm or greater look at QIDI X-Max 3 and some newer ones on the market this year!
thanks for the video reallygood to the point and convinced me to get the p1s
Awesome! I am so glad I could help!
This is the printer that made be pull the trigger into fdm printing. It’s epic
That’s awesome to hear! Great choice too!
Loyal you're putting out some of the best content on the bambu printers. Really good break down of each printer against one another ❤❤❤
Wow Karl! I appreciate that!
Can you print a full size helmet on the x1c
The general answer is no, it’s really too small for any real wearable helmets printed in one piece. 300mm cubed printers are what we call helmet class machines.
You can print thin shell helmets or child sized helmets, or split larger ones up and print them for gluing back together on the X1C.
@@LoyalMoses thanks for your honest response! Is there a printer that you recommend that would perform well and be able to do that?
There are a TON of them.
Sovol sv08, Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus, Raise3D Pro 2 (look for a good used one), Comgrow T300… a lot of these new 300mm or larger machines are producing great quality. Find your budget, then get the best machine you can for it.
Wow there’s no layer lines 100% awesome prints loyal both look amazing in quality
I totally agree!
I'm getting ready to throw my CR-10 out of the window. This was very helpful for what to replace it with. Thanks!
Let me know when you get a new machine!!!
The backround
Imagine how much all that filament cost
And already got a like
We have about 5,000+ spools up here! 🤯
@@LoyalMoses jessus
@@LoyalMoses how much were all of them
I’ve bought thousands of spools, all around $20 to $30 each - the rest have all been sent to us from sponsors.
does the x1 carbon already have the stainless steel gears and hot end that you mention to upgrade in the p1s?
It has the hardened steel gears and hot end
You could do a short of the two of them printing a multi filament object to see if that would make a difference.
Definitely!
So if I bought a p1s what would I have to get or do, so I could print in carbon fibre material
Hardened steel extruder gears and nozzle
Begginer question for someone who does not have a printer yer but i want to get the P1S...why you hit the part with a torch?
Melts the little plastic stringy bits!
Very nice overview thanks!
Very welcome!
Going from an Ender 3 to one of these. Not sure which one I should buy. Any advice?
Sorry I missed this question! Did you end up deciding?
Hey I sorry but was the print time the same?
Yes, print times were near identical - only difference was the pre-print operations.
I’m in research stage and 100% green . I am considering an enclosed printer cause I don’t want to be restricted on what material I can use . My question what material should I use for making parts for a grow room . The parts will be in soil all the time , or in a hydroponic system .it will be exposed. To warm humid environment , and UV light from the grow lights . And I guess food safe . It would be very appreciated if some one could tell me what I should use for filament and does such filament require an enclosed printer . Thank you so much for help advise knowledge!
PETG and ASA are UV resistant.
@@LoyalMoses thank you
Can you show us how to print with filament that's not Bambu ones please?
Hey Cathy! 👋 I used the Generic ABS profile in Bambu Slicer for this Polymaker ABS. Is that what you meant?!
I think she is talking about using other brand filaments. Temp and speed settings maybe?
@@matthewthompson7012 ah! Each filament will be a little different, but Polymaker has PolyLite settings in the slicer by default and that so far works with a lot of variety of filaments. Also, thank you!
@@LoyalMoses yes I have a lot of other filaments and want to use on my BambuLab printer. Unfortunately the printer doesn't have internet. So I print the SD card. And I saw that it didn't do the level check on it when I picked on the printer. But sometimes when I start the print it just uses the first filament and not the one I want.
im on the fence to witch will be my first printer and my first experience into the 3d printing world. I just want this to be a fun hobby to learn a little cad and to build useful things with printer that i could use in everyday life, what would you guys recommend for a newbie?
Bambu will be your best experience
Thanks ! received my p1s 2 days ago and printed my first ever benchie and it came out flawless! I giggled like a little school girls . love it so far cant wait to do more prints!@@LoyalMoses
Anyone point me in the right direction for the fan shrouds for the P1S upgrade? The MC fan, and the Cabin fan? I have been printing in the P1P in a tent up till the time I got the enclosure done, the back for the P1S won't be available till 7th of next month, so looking to get ready for it... Bambu Lab.. if you see this.. can you please get those files up and available for us? OR.. are you selling these? Either or.. we need those files.
Ah. I haven’t seen if there are files available yet. I imagine that would only be a matter of time.
Merci pour votre sincérité qui apporte la réponse que nous recherchons. Je peux affirmer que la plupart des youtubeurs nous racontent des salades !
You are very welcome! ❤️