Hey guy hoping for some advise and direction hitting a dead. I have zero breaks on my yume x11 due to both cable needing to be replaced . Do you know where I can get both Dyisland Brand cables, or would I need to purchase the entire assembly? Live in Florida and every bike shop I've gone to has never heard of DYISLAND and that nobody sells just the cable. Any direction and leads would be a great help new to all this and not having much luck. Please HELP...
Hi. I just received my fieabor scooter. 60v 27 ah 2800w. It's a beast! Don't see too many videos or people with these. How is yours running these days?
@@TonesAdventuresHD you really have to be your own mechanic with these evs. You never know there wasn't a proper pressurized bleed in the system when you got it home from out of the box. I suspect my need bleeding as well. The brake pads supplied and the extra ones are probably bottom shelf pads no doubt. I always wanted hydraulic disc brakes and now I have to learn all about them and get a special bleeder kit and all of that LOL.
I think you are supposed to remove the brakes and use the brake stoppers that come with the kit to stop the pads from closing while you pump the air out.
The method shown in this video is no good. To get it done properly and most effectively you gotta use special valves for bleeding these brakes. It's in my later videos check it out
@@djdaddyaofficial870 You can also lay the scooter down on its side (caliper side up) and put a small box under it to bring the caliper end slightly higher than the brake line..Bleeding works just as good.👍
Hey bro great video. I have a scooter with same braking system, my brakes are extremely sharp. So I just loosen up the little nut on the handlebar brake? To make the brakes less sharper?
Yes my breaks are way too sensitive. Now I’m facing a new problem the handle bar pole is loose. So if the front tire is straight. After abit of riding the handle bars are slightly on the wrong side and not straight as the tires
@@5.m110 Sorry for my late response. It appears this particular scooter comes with electronic braking assist turned on by default...so the braking will be very sharp and aggressive. You will need to disable that in the throttle display setting. Press and hold both buttons (Mode and Power) for a few seconds. It will enter into P settings. Press the mode button repeatedly until you get to P09. Press and hold mode button to enter that setting. Change the value to 0. 2 is strong electronic braking. 1 is mild electronic braking. 0 is to disable electronic braking. See pics here - ibb.co/BPCv7Sg ibb.co/jgg719b Make sure that 2 screws that secure the bracket to the handlebar post are tightened. If they are not the handlebar will be loose when turning. Hope this helps..
Sorry for the late reply I just saw your post. Here is the brake pad for this hydraulic brakes - www.amazon.com/Compatible-Mechanical-Decipher-Dualtron-Render-R/dp/B088ZM2J7J/ref=mp_s_a_1_21_sspa?crid=22VG8C4PW1KXH&keywords=bicycle+hydraulic+brake+pads&qid=1698417922&sprefix=brake+pads+hydraulic+bicy%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-21-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRm&psc=1
Oh ok I see what you mean now. No you don't need to remove that. You have to unscrew the bolt that secures the brake cable that connects to the brake caliper to fill hydraulic oil.. You have to use allen key wrench to unscrew that. But I say screw all this shit and just replace the brake with mechanical brake system because this DYISLAND brakes are junk and is very difficult to bleed proerly due to air trap..
So no need to turn the scooter upside down , just undo the master cylinder and flip it other way around for time being , the brakes actualy have bleed screws on th master cylinder on top of it , someone probably installed the mastercylinders upside down (I know because I have same brakes and the screw is from top ) no need for any syrringe , just pump the brake few times then hold it , while holding it open the bleed walwe on caliper then close id back up , relese the brake ad some more oil and repeat , it always works for all brakes
Hope that works out for you.. I did have oil leaking too, but got fixed by using at least 3 small o-rings..per caliper. Those small rings are found in your brake bleed kit box.
Check this link here -> www.aliexpress.com/item/33020287361.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.5c786e626epAe6&gps-id=pcStoreJustForYou&scm=1007.23125.137358.0&scm_id=1007.23125.137358.0&scm-url=1007.23125.137358.0&pvid=60f4923a-3bc9-490b-8e76-900bdc66567e Make sure to get both front and back brakeset + the pads for front and back. You might have to look around for cheaper prices... And make sure to watch my last three videos about brake modding they work real well increasing brake power.
i would recommend it. having the turn the scooter upside down just to bleed the brakes is more trouble than its worth. i have the same brakes and i am going to upgrade.
Hi. After the bleeding, what happens when you take the bleeding screw out and put the other one back in? Do you loose pressure.. It would help to see when you remove it..
Good question, yes the moment you unscrew the bleed screw out and put back the caliper screw you will lose pressure..and oil too. There is a much better method, use the special bleed valves that will stay on the caliper permanently, called Stalbus bleed valves. It's in my later videos. You will get full pressure and turn your brakes into racing brakes. Use it with this bleeding kit to do complete the process.
Yo bro, so my rear brake wire is disconnected , do I have to screw it or put fluid in it to tight it? (After putting the wire back on, even it's still loose)
You mean you disconnected the rear brake fluid cable? Why did you do that? That's gonna cause even more air to come inside and trapped... This video nrake bleed method isn't good either cause the moment you remove that screw and put it back on air gets trapped as well... You'll have to use special bleed valve that fits on the caliper hole... One of my other videos covers this briefly. Sorry you're going through troubles..it's gonna be painful and time consuming
You need both the Stahlbus bleed valves (1 for front, 1 for back) and this bleed kit to complete the process. Without the bleed valves this method is not really effective.
I thought that but it seems his brake levers don't have a bolt to put fluid in, which is very strange or maybe just, really basic brakes. I've never seen one like that where there is no bolt at the lever reservoir. 🤔
Sorry for the late reply my youtube setting gone weird on me. The bleeding kit I got it from Amazon www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P8M41K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and Mineral Oil Brake Fluid www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HDLYDU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. To make this work most effectively it is high recommended to get a special bleed valve. It's designed for cars and motorcycles but it works with the scooter as well as I just set it up today and tested. Uploading a new video for that right now.. Check it out. Without this valve it's a hit or miss to make bleeding work effectively as air gets trapped back into the brake line when you place tighten the screw back on the caliper and there will be loss of oil pressure...
Yes that is it but don't bother using that cause it's not going to work well. God told me that all hydraulic brakes are no good. He says they don't work any better than the mechanical brakes. Just replace them with mechanical brakes.
You're welcome, but it's not really effective cause air gets trapped back in the caliper when you screw the original screw back in. Need special bleed valves and use it in conjunction with this bleed kit. That way it's pressure tight and no oil loss. It's in my later videos (Stahlbus bleed valves). And for cheap (almost no cost) alternative is to apply a 1- 2 mm screw washers on the back side of the brake pads. The outer side of the piston (facing toward you) actually doesn't have piston, it's just an empty space. You can place a washer in there to bring in the pads closer to the disk, it also increases clearance so that your disk won touch or scrape the brake caliper.. that will give you better brake feel (more responsive braking)
Sorry, but the real way of bleeding this type of brakes is not in this video. The proper way is in the video on this link below ruclips.net/video/wT3KPFdXyJc/видео.html Its in russian but the process is very obvious.
I watched the video you linked. While it's an alternative method to bleed the brakes the air still gets trapped inside the system when you remove and screw in the bolt on both the brake lever-end of the hose and the brake caliper. I find it clever that the guy filled up the oil in the lever unit itself before screwing it back on to the hose. The problem is the oil pressure still gets lost and the air still gets trapped into the system when you screw the bolt back on. You can see that after the guy puts the brakes all back together there was still a lot of play in the levers when he squeezed it. Both mine and his method are not so great getting the brake bleed done more effectively. This method might help if there is a lot of air trapped in the system, or oil leak due to damage/accident however. I have two additional methods that are much more effective. Here is the "cheap" method - ruclips.net/video/Tf-1NjZcOi0/видео.html Here is an "expensive" method but most effective - ruclips.net/video/XZHJYhSXAlY/видео.html The expensive method turned my brakes into racing brakes. Another option is just get new brake pads but it takes a long wait time to receive, and some local retailers charge arm and leg for a pair of brake pads. Take a look at those two videos I linked and take into consideration as they really work effectively.
You're welcome🙂 Yeah these brakes are junk...very notorious for losing brake pressure. Since I'm so poor I may look into replacing the hydraulic brake system with a standard mechanical brake system on my scooter. For now it's ok so far as brake pressure has increased...but I don't think it will last very long 😐
I just got a new mod for my DYISLAND hydraulic brakes for my scooter. It's a special bleed valve used in cars and motorcycles and it works with my scooter. It turned my brakes into a racing brake system now as the brake power increased by 200%, and virtually no play in the brake levers so the brake response is immediate. I had to apply 3 or 4 O-ring gaskets for each valve to make tight fit to prevent oil leak as they don't fit perfectly. It is working now. I am uploading the video right now.. give it a few hours or so and check it out!
You're meant to take the brake pads out and put a blocker in the caliper to keep the pistons as pushed out as they can be.
good timing i am about to do the bleed of dvisland brakes. Thank you and thumbs up.
Hey guy hoping for some advise and direction hitting a dead. I have zero breaks on my yume x11 due to both cable needing to be replaced . Do you know where I can get both Dyisland Brand cables, or would I need to purchase the entire assembly? Live in Florida and every bike shop I've gone to has never heard of DYISLAND and that nobody sells just the cable. Any direction and leads would be a great help new to all this and not having much luck. Please HELP...
Thanks mate really helpful the other video on RUclips was saying to take the entire brake system apart lol
Awesome video brother! I have a Fieabor scooter and I have very little pressure on my brakes.
Hi. I just received my fieabor scooter. 60v 27 ah 2800w. It's a beast! Don't see too many videos or people with these. How is yours running these days?
@@mgtowlevel5293 It’s running good. However I think the brakes are going out because there is very little pressure
@@TonesAdventuresHD you really have to be your own mechanic with these evs. You never know there wasn't a proper pressurized bleed in the system when you got it home from out of the box. I suspect my need bleeding as well. The brake pads supplied and the extra ones are probably bottom shelf pads no doubt. I always wanted hydraulic disc brakes and now I have to learn all about them and get a special bleeder kit and all of that LOL.
I think you are supposed to remove the brakes and use the brake stoppers that come with the kit to stop the pads from closing while you pump the air out.
The method shown in this video is no good. To get it done properly and most effectively you gotta use special valves for bleeding these brakes. It's in my later videos check it out
@@noobz5056 Cool! Also. it's good to know that you have to turn the scooter upside down for the bleed to work.. thanks for that info!
@@djdaddyaofficial870 You can also lay the scooter down on its side (caliper side up) and put a small box under it to bring the caliper end slightly higher than the brake line..Bleeding works just as good.👍
Wow thank you so much.. i taught i needed to change my breakdisks.. But i guess i need to bleed the system of air.
where to buy that brake fluid and the complete kit
Want to replace O rings but I can't find the tool to remove the cap
What type of fluid do they take? Mineral oil or DOT?
Mineral oil only!
Hey bro great video.
I have a scooter with same braking system, my brakes are extremely sharp. So I just loosen up the little nut on the handlebar brake? To make the brakes less sharper?
What do you mean sharp? You mean the brake feels too tight? Or loose? Yeah you can adjust by turning the nut/screw in the brake levers...
Or did you mean the scooter slows down excessively/abruptly? Like too sensitive?
Yes my breaks are way too sensitive. Now I’m facing a new problem the handle bar pole is loose. So if the front tire is straight. After abit of riding the handle bars are slightly on the wrong side and not straight as the tires
One headache after another lol
@@5.m110 Sorry for my late response. It appears this particular scooter comes with electronic braking assist turned on by default...so the braking will be very sharp and aggressive. You will need to disable that in the throttle display setting. Press and hold both buttons (Mode and Power) for a few seconds. It will enter into P settings. Press the mode button repeatedly until you get to P09. Press and hold mode button to enter that setting. Change the value to 0. 2 is strong electronic braking. 1 is mild electronic braking. 0 is to disable electronic braking. See pics here - ibb.co/BPCv7Sg
ibb.co/jgg719b
Make sure that 2 screws that secure the bracket to the handlebar post are tightened. If they are not the handlebar will be loose when turning. Hope this helps..
Good information….thank you
I know this video is old any links to the brake pads your scooter take I have the same on mines but can’t find any
Sorry for the late reply I just saw your post. Here is the brake pad for this hydraulic brakes - www.amazon.com/Compatible-Mechanical-Decipher-Dualtron-Render-R/dp/B088ZM2J7J/ref=mp_s_a_1_21_sspa?crid=22VG8C4PW1KXH&keywords=bicycle+hydraulic+brake+pads&qid=1698417922&sprefix=brake+pads+hydraulic+bicy%2Caps%2C214&sr=8-21-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRm&psc=1
Do you know what tools you need to remove bore caps?
Sorry I don't know what you mean by bore caps can you please reiterate..
He means the black cap that says "use mineral oil only"
Oh ok I see what you mean now. No you don't need to remove that. You have to unscrew the bolt that secures the brake cable that connects to the brake caliper to fill hydraulic oil.. You have to use allen key wrench to unscrew that. But I say screw all this shit and just replace the brake with mechanical brake system because this DYISLAND brakes are junk and is very difficult to bleed proerly due to air trap..
Lol!
Btw, I think he needs to change his Brakes O ring. Thats why he needs to remove that cap
So no need to turn the scooter upside down , just undo the master cylinder and flip it other way around for time being , the brakes actualy have bleed screws on th master cylinder on top of it , someone probably installed the mastercylinders upside down (I know because I have same brakes and the screw is from top ) no need for any syrringe , just pump the brake few times then hold it , while holding it open the bleed walwe on caliper then close id back up , relese the brake ad some more oil and repeat , it always works for all brakes
Thanks but where's the master cylinder? Oh and I don't use hydraulic brakes no more... mechanical brakes are much better. ☺
@@noobz5056 oh , ok , master cylinder is the thing your brake lever is attatched to
@@kamillapaj87 Oh, I don't have master cylinder on my brake levers it's only at the brake caliper...
That model does not have a bleed screw anywhere on this caliper handle which makes this a silly, problematic, and complicated design for service.
Can this work on mtb? Will use only on road
Sir where I can buy this dyisland hydraulic brake please answer me
AliExpress. There's better ones now like the 4 piston "LD4X-300"
Great video! Thanks 👍
I have a problem because thier oil leak coming from the break pad if i adjust the break control adjusted clockwise
I have a problem because my break have a oil leak coming from break area if i adjust clockwise the oil drops can you help me sir thank you
You have to try different combinations of applying o-ring gaskets.. Try using the smaller ones that are tight to fit, at least 3 o-rings if not 4.
Hope that works out for you.. I did have oil leaking too, but got fixed by using at least 3 small o-rings..per caliper. Those small rings are found in your brake bleed kit box.
Bro what’s the name of your brakes from your scooter i want to buy exactly same for mine
Check this link here -> www.aliexpress.com/item/33020287361.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.5c786e626epAe6&gps-id=pcStoreJustForYou&scm=1007.23125.137358.0&scm_id=1007.23125.137358.0&scm-url=1007.23125.137358.0&pvid=60f4923a-3bc9-490b-8e76-900bdc66567e
Make sure to get both front and back brakeset + the pads for front and back. You might have to look around for cheaper prices... And make sure to watch my last three videos about brake modding they work real well increasing brake power.
i would recommend it. having the turn the scooter upside down just to bleed the brakes is more trouble than its worth. i have the same brakes and i am going to upgrade.
Which fitting did you use?
Hi. After the bleeding, what happens when you take the bleeding screw out and put the other one back in? Do you loose pressure.. It would help to see when you remove it..
Good question, yes the moment you unscrew the bleed screw out and put back the caliper screw you will lose pressure..and oil too. There is a much better method, use the special bleed valves that will stay on the caliper permanently, called Stalbus bleed valves. It's in my later videos. You will get full pressure and turn your brakes into racing brakes. Use it with this bleeding kit to do complete the process.
Can this be put on a bike?
Bike as in motorcycle? In that case I don't think it will work. Bicycles sure would work.
Yo bro, so my rear brake wire is disconnected , do I have to screw it or put fluid in it to tight it? (After putting the wire back on, even it's still loose)
You mean you disconnected the rear brake fluid cable? Why did you do that? That's gonna cause even more air to come inside and trapped... This video nrake bleed method isn't good either cause the moment you remove that screw and put it back on air gets trapped as well... You'll have to use special bleed valve that fits on the caliper hole... One of my other videos covers this briefly. Sorry you're going through troubles..it's gonna be painful and time consuming
How do you insert the oil into the syringe ??
Just pull out the inner piece of the syringe to pour oil into. I wish I had a headcam so I can record the video of the whole process.
You need both the Stahlbus bleed valves (1 for front, 1 for back) and this bleed kit to complete the process. Without the bleed valves this method is not really effective.
I don’t think u really need to turn the scooter upside down.
I thought that but it seems his brake levers don't have a bolt to put fluid in, which is very strange or maybe just, really basic brakes. I've never seen one like that where there is no bolt at the lever reservoir. 🤔
Where did you get the brake bleeding kit?
Sorry for the late reply my youtube setting gone weird on me. The bleeding kit I got it from Amazon www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P8M41K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and Mineral Oil Brake Fluid www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HDLYDU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. To make this work most effectively it is high recommended to get a special bleed valve. It's designed for cars and motorcycles but it works with the scooter as well as I just set it up today and tested. Uploading a new video for that right now.. Check it out. Without this valve it's a hit or miss to make bleeding work effectively as air gets trapped back into the brake line when you place tighten the screw back on the caliper and there will be loss of oil pressure...
Is it dot o mineral oil
Yes that is it but don't bother using that cause it's not going to work well. God told me that all hydraulic brakes are no good. He says they don't work any better than the mechanical brakes. Just replace them with mechanical brakes.
@@noobz5056 ok
What screw driver did you use to remove the screw on rear break?
You'll need star key wrench set to unscrew those..
Does the brakes work fine after bleeding?
Not really cause the air gets back inside the system when I put the screw on the caliper back on...lose brake pressure.
Thanks!
You're welcome 🙂
thanks, very helpfull video ..
You're welcome, but it's not really effective cause air gets trapped back in the caliper when you screw the original screw back in. Need special bleed valves and use it in conjunction with this bleed kit. That way it's pressure tight and no oil loss. It's in my later videos (Stahlbus bleed valves). And for cheap (almost no cost) alternative is to apply a 1- 2 mm screw washers on the back side of the brake pads. The outer side of the piston (facing toward you) actually doesn't have piston, it's just an empty space. You can place a washer in there to bring in the pads closer to the disk, it also increases clearance so that your disk won touch or scrape the brake caliper.. that will give you better brake feel (more responsive braking)
Вам стоит посмотреть другое видео по прокачке тормозов 🤦♂
Huh? 😳
Sorry, but the real way of bleeding this type of brakes is not in this video.
The proper way is in the video on this link below
ruclips.net/video/wT3KPFdXyJc/видео.html
Its in russian but the process is very obvious.
I watched the video you linked. While it's an alternative method to bleed the brakes the air still gets trapped inside the system when you remove and screw in the bolt on both the brake lever-end of the hose and the brake caliper. I find it clever that the guy filled up the oil in the lever unit itself before screwing it back on to the hose. The problem is the oil pressure still gets lost and the air still gets trapped into the system when you screw the bolt back on. You can see that after the guy puts the brakes all back together there was still a lot of play in the levers when he squeezed it. Both mine and his method are not so great getting the brake bleed done more effectively. This method might help if there is a lot of air trapped in the system, or oil leak due to damage/accident however. I have two additional methods that are much more effective. Here is the "cheap" method - ruclips.net/video/Tf-1NjZcOi0/видео.html Here is an "expensive" method but most effective - ruclips.net/video/XZHJYhSXAlY/видео.html The expensive method turned my brakes into racing brakes. Another option is just get new brake pads but it takes a long wait time to receive, and some local retailers charge arm and leg for a pair of brake pads. Take a look at those two videos I linked and take into consideration as they really work effectively.
Thanks man it was very helpful. Those brakes are trash and hard to bleed.
You're welcome🙂 Yeah these brakes are junk...very notorious for losing brake pressure. Since I'm so poor I may look into replacing the hydraulic brake system with a standard mechanical brake system on my scooter. For now it's ok so far as brake pressure has increased...but I don't think it will last very long 😐
I just got a new mod for my DYISLAND hydraulic brakes for my scooter. It's a special bleed valve used in cars and motorcycles and it works with my scooter. It turned my brakes into a racing brake system now as the brake power increased by 200%, and virtually no play in the brake levers so the brake response is immediate. I had to apply 3 or 4 O-ring gaskets for each valve to make tight fit to prevent oil leak as they don't fit perfectly. It is working now. I am uploading the video right now.. give it a few hours or so and check it out!
@@noobz5056 i have a problem because my break have a leak how can i fix can you help me sir thank you