@@Hambini In the bad column no mention of crap freehub nut problem?? not everyone can machine their own 2.0 nut that works..what did that take, 6 hours??
@@johnkasza2315 I bought a TT disc wheel from them a few months ago and it doesn't have this issue. Obviously a different hub but the freehub look exactly the same.
Changing from analysing the sounds and effects of balls rubbing to doing a bit of rimming. Your skills seem to have no bounds. Not only that but the pen is working a treat.
Just bought a set of Elitewheels Drive G45 SS for my Gravel bike. Haven’t rode it yet but man they look good!! Happy with this information from Hambini that erases some apprehension about my Buy. I went with the Stainless Steel Spokes over the Carbon spokes for only a 70gram weight saving!! Fingers crossed 🤞🏻
You should make the lockring for Peak Torque, let him sell them and you take a cut. And that would allow you more time with the hairdresser. That 180mm brake caliper rotor adapter he sells was exactly what I needed and I'm actually happy with my brakes now. I don't need a lockring but I'd buy one just in case I ever needed it.
Thanks for reviewing rim brake carbon road wheels! It's unfortunately becoming harder and harder to get top of the line, current models from the established players
Interesting review, difficult to comparison against winspace due to different depths. Would be interesting to know the comparison between the two brands with the same depth wheels.... perhaps a different front/rear depth combo would be the ideal middle ground, eg. 40/50. Would the Drive 50s, equal the Winspace 50s for flat speed, Drive 50Vs are only 50g lighter? I also understand the 'blunt' U shape is more cross wind resistant, but is there a downside (at some point) for aerodynamics?
Precisely what I was wondering! I am thinking the 50s set, or a 40 front and 50 rear for excellent climbing still, but with added aero capability. Would love to see this combo tested and compared to the first review of the 40s.
I bought Elite SLT. The rear hub started to play right out of the box. I disassembled the hub and one of the ceramic bearings was loose. I don’t recommend buying it.
Any updates on adding the freehub nut to your shop? I would love to get one myself, I feel the ones you get with a casette are one misstep from crossthreading/overthightening Would most of the improved stability be because the rim is not as deep? The curve looked alot like one of the 35mm deep wheels you reviewed. Might be more fair to compare the wheel to others of simular depth? Is it possible that you do a new study of aerodynamic wheels including 28mm tyres at it seems to become more popular? I am wondering if I should change from 25mm to 28mm with this wheelset as it would align with the 105 rule.
Hambini, you've slagged off the Zipp wheels in the past, but I think you should do a review of the new version of their 303 Firecrest and let us know whether you think the new design lives up to the claims!
Did they give you one of their disc wheels to test and review? Price looks good and I was wondering if I should replace my Zipp 1080 that is 9-10 years old
I have the same notches in my rear hub and used the exact same method you did. It's the only logical reason for them being there. Be aware when tightening, you can cause a burr on the edges (if you tighten the cap tight af). This will then, obviously, impede the replacement of the cap. However, I found, a sharp tap with a hammer sorts it out.
l'd wonder how 2-5 spoke wheels perform. l heared from people (l think from silca) running tests with specialized saying a 3 spoke in the front is as fast as a disc ... would like to know other aspects of x-spoke full carbon wheels
Interesting content as normal, could you let me know the max load weight of these wheels please. Unfortunately I need to loose a few lbs but it's easier to buy wheels that can take my load! Keep up the good content.
I have the Elite 60 mm front and back set, absolutely best wheels I ever got. Sadly only thing I hate is the ratchet noise, my old 7 speed freewheel makes zero noise.
So based on your recent recommendation, I got a set of Farsports Ventoux that through a series of events ended up on my climbing rig. Do you think it's worth replacing them with a set of the Elite 40V ultralights? Both have carbon spokes, good power transfer, good braking for descents... not sure if I would notice the ~200 to 250g on steep climbs, although the pricing on the elites is far better. Would you say the farsports ventoux hubs are superior? Honestly, not a big fan of the wacky looking elite hubs.
If you filled the cutouts in the front hub with some lightweight material, say styrofoam, could you actually measure the improved aerodynamics and would you even feel it?
Great Review. Do you know if you got the "Team Version" or "Ultralight" version of the rim? Elite's website states the only difference is the Team rim is slightly heavier and stiffer, and advertised at 1325gms. Also, what brake pads did you use?
Thanks for the review! How many teeth does the ratchet have (this info doesn't appear on the website)? Is it always the case that it's better to have more teeth on the ratchet?
With the ratchet I'm assuming you mean the cassette? Right, if so then it doesn't come with the wheels, you'll need to install that yourself it's very simple actually :) (you will need a shimano cassette tool though) And no it's not always better to have a bigger cassette, the bigger the cogs, the lower your gear, the easier it is to pedal and of course you'd need to pedal more often to get to the same speed as someone with a smaller cassette. Whatever cassette you use really just comes down to personal preference, I like my 26-11t cassette but most people use a 30/32t-11/12/13t cassettes. Also if you do end up adding the cassette yourself you will need to Check what size your derailleur cage is, a small derailleur cage for example could only hold a cassette with a maximum of 28t in the biggest cog. Good luck
@@tonyderechte3928 Thanks, though I meant the ratchet that is inside the hub of the rear wheel. I'm not sure if there is an optimum number of teeth that that ratchet has to have. Marketing seems to sell that the more teeth, the better (as there is a quicker engagement).
@@lucasandino9774 oh lol, well I don't know the answer to that, my knowledge of bikes is just fundamental. But now I'll have to read what you were talking about so thanks for that.
I've been running some elite wheels for the last few months, fastest wheels I've had and run great, been trashing them but they're holding up great....
Hello, I would like to purchase ELITEWHEELS SLT Road Carbon Wheels rim brake for my road bike. I need your help to choose the correct rim outer width to match with my road bike. I was thinking to go with 50mm depth 27mm, I don't know this will fit with my bike For your information my current rim specs are: Surface, 700C, 28H, 19mm Internal Width and 30mm Deep and the tire size is 25c Could you please help me to get the right size?
Well the problem with mine is the well known front hub loose bearing due to deformed hub flange as since the spokes are positioned at the very end of the hub. They have changed the hub design on all new orders but for mine they're sending larger bearings to compensate which imo is a shitty bandaid solution. I haven't received the bearings yet but I wish they'd just take back the front wheel and replace it completely as mine is brand new and the problem is apparent in the first kilometer. So I got an unusable set of wheels for the last 3 months.
I just don't get deep dish wheels unless you do TT. b Beyond 38mm for most amateur riders is just a trade off. Most of us want quick acceleration from the lights and rarely hit over 40kmh on the road. Think of lightened flywheels and torque converters on race cars especially rally cars with bursts of stop start acceleration. The bicycle wheel rim and tyres do the same thing. Flywheels are chosen by engine builders specifically for courses it's that important but often overlooked.
Would really like to see how the Elite BWT RXL 45 compare in cross wind stability with their undulating pattern, with the hypers was thinking the 50s would be too deep for my preferences, where I am
I have the Elite Drive 40 disc brakes, the Elite BWT, and the Hyper 38. The Elites are as stiff as hypers but since these are aero optimized for 28 and the larger internal width they are VERY different in feel to the Hypers. Feels faster due to the lower weight and much more comfy. The BWT is slow and I only use them for training or endurance ride. They all seem to perform well in crosswind and yes I like 40 wheels more than 50 which I've sold them all. FYI the weights on mine are: Hyper 38 Disc 1420gr, Elite Drive D40 1253gr, Elite BWT 1507gr.
@@DEXVD Not only width but also the fact that you MUST use 25 on Hypers but 28 on the Elites as they're aero optimized as such. So what wheels you get depends on what tire size you want to use. For me personally since the roads locally are shit and when the wheels are light enough + tubeless setup, I'm probably faster and in less pain with all 28 going forward.
@@thebespokecyclist3624 Apologies for resurrecting this thread, but I'm curious how you've come to the concusion that the BWT is slow, and if it's far behind the Hypers and Drive. I'm currently interested in the BWT RXLs, Hyper 2023s, and Drive which you've all previously ridden. Thanks!
@@renzoantonio9985 Now that I've got to test out the new Hyper D45, old 38, Elite D40 and BWT I can comment on the differences. The BWT feels like the old Zipp sawtooths, heavy lumbering but very good at crosswinds. Slow to get up to speed but stable once it reaches high speed due to the higher weight and inertia. The new D45 is just slightly more affected by crosswinds compared to the 38. Stiff and faster than the BWT but accelerates slower than the 38 due to the heavier rear wheel and the use of 28 at the back and 25 on front. At high speed though the D45 is the best of the bunch. The Elite D40 is actually the best all around even with 28 front rear still the lightest wheel + tire setup I got and most fun but I got the old hub which got recalled and needed a bearing replacement (which I'm not sure how long before the issue arises again). I'm using the BWT for my home trainer and training on road bike as it's a proven workhorse that can take abuse. If I have to buy 2 wheels now I'd buy the 2023 Hyper D45 for peloton or racing and the Elite D40 which is lighter than even the new Hyper 33 for climbing and the all around bike. Elite are shipping all new Drive wheels with newly designed hubs now so you'll be safe. Forge the BWT and old Hypers altogether.
Interested to see you mix greases, with manufacturer’s packing and the Mobil. Are there any risks with doing that ? Or do you need to properly know what materials you are using and hence what is ‘fine’ ?
It's not really going to b ea doomsday scenario despite what you might hear in cycling forums. You'll generally find the greases melt at slightly different temperatures and the viscosity is different. If you are using one grease, then you'll get uniformity. With multiple greases you'll have a bit of variation.
Surprised they didn't send you the amended version of that hub it is quite different. looking at other reviewers..I believe luke @Tracevelo had those ones. Love the anodised finish ..
When you measure the imbalance do you measure without a valve? Ideally, you would want an imbalanced wheel that becomes balanced after you put the valve on...
@@Hambini I just know that the custom carbon wheels I build with good rims and hubs will oscillate and stop with the valve hole on top... An alloy tubeless valve is only about 5 grams but that's not insignificant, actually, 5 grams is quite a lot of carbon fiber epoxy...
I prefer the feeling of wheels with higher moments of inertia, the cruising speed feeling as well as the feeling of loading the wheel out of a corner, then it shoots you forward once you spin it up
@@Hambini what about when riding in a Fast Pack with a rather constant speed, without traffic lights, basically a closed-loop (we have 2 of these in Paris) ?
@@Hambini in an hour record type sustained effort scenario with no elevation changes and only one acceleration at the start, would heavier wheels be more efficient? Once they're "up to speed" would the energy required to maintain speed under such velodrome circumstances be lower?
Does the acceleration of the wheel depend mainly on the weight or the depth of the wheel? I'm asking this because Elite Wheels offer a 50 mm depth wheel that weighs just 30 grams more than the 40 mm deep ones. It would also be nice to have, eventually, the stability curve of the 50 mm deep wheel. Thanks!
that stability curve will be on the website soon, as the wheel gets deeper, it will generally become more unstable and the acceleration will get worse.
@@Hambini thanks! This is interesting. I would've thought it's the weight that ultimately matters for acceleration (as many think throughout the internet).
I have a pair. Really good in 50mm rim brakes. They are loud when I brake, but it's maybe contamination. I use the Shimano carbon pads, but if anyone has a recommendeded altenative I'll be glad to know. 🌚
But where do they sit on the scale ? That's right, the fucking scale !! I (we) miss the fucking scale !!! What did the Lepratic Frenchie say to Tyrone ? Keep the tip. I'm laughing, is anyone else ?
Beautiful wheels, but the customer service is the worst. Found a little impact damage on the edge of the front wheel (DRIVE 50V) and informed them the day after I received the package. They insinuated I caused the damage on the first ride - when I didn't even have time to set them up at all. They offered me nothing and haven't been reacting to mails since then. An absolute disgrace.
I hardly disagree with the stability. I have the 50D and it is very unstable compared to my old Bontrager XXX. Had a Hyper 50 too which I sold not too long ago, they’re about the same. These are good quality wheels but I think the Chinese aren’t on par with the west when it comes to aerodynamics.
Bought a set of elite wheels G45 wheels on the strength of several reviews of Elite Wheels, however I'm struggling with first setup. Rear wheel will not spin when the cassette is attached with even minimal torque. (it will freewheel with a very nice sounding ratchet. but wheel seems to be stuck when trying to pedal) Is this something I am obviously doing wrong? (cassette is from another bike with same Shimano freehub standard, swapped back with no issues on old wheel). Any advice, much appreciated!
A bit more info is available here www.hambini.com/elite-wheels-drive-40v-40mm-racing-bike-wheels/
There's no freehub bite because of the prawn level torque bruv.
You've got about as much penetration as pigeon shite mate.
Gold comment, response and shower.
@@Hambini In the bad column no mention of crap freehub nut problem?? not everyone can machine their own 2.0 nut that works..what did that take, 6 hours??
@@johnkasza2315 Maybe 2-3 hours depending on setup changes...and breaks with his hairdresser.
@@johnkasza2315 I bought a TT disc wheel from them a few months ago and it doesn't have this issue. Obviously a different hub but the freehub look exactly the same.
Nothing jolts me into an awakened state like a nice loud Hambini intro.
The absolute madlad of YT cycling
Changing from analysing the sounds and effects of balls rubbing to doing a bit of rimming. Your skills seem to have no bounds. Not only that but the pen is working a treat.
Just bought a set of Elitewheels Drive G45 SS for my Gravel bike. Haven’t rode it yet but man they look good!! Happy with this information from Hambini that erases some apprehension about my Buy. I went with the Stainless Steel Spokes over the Carbon spokes for only a 70gram weight saving!! Fingers crossed 🤞🏻
I’m really glad Hambini’s hairdresser is into rimming. We wouldn’t be able to learn about this product otherwise
The hubs look really similar to Fulcrum's hubs (i.e., Racing Zero DB)... especially the flanges.
You should make the lockring for Peak Torque, let him sell them and you take a cut. And that would allow you more time with the hairdresser. That 180mm brake caliper rotor adapter he sells was exactly what I needed and I'm actually happy with my brakes now. I don't need a lockring but I'd buy one just in case I ever needed it.
I've been moving back to shallow wheels as well. At the speed I ride it's pretty ridiculous pretending that aero makes more difference than weight.
I have a set of ELITE SLT 60mm depth, 28mm width disc.
1700 grams.
Paid $625 USD, the wheels are fantastic, very well built, excellent quality.
Your a sweet smart man an im enjoying your videos as i edge ever closer to taking up serious cycling as a new hobby...
When video started I had the volume maxed out and it scared the shit out of me.
Thanks for reviewing rim brake carbon road wheels! It's unfortunately becoming harder and harder to get top of the line, current models from the established players
Nice pencil and techy bits. Miss the trademark orange jumper.
Great vid thanks!
Chris
Thanks Hambini, very interesting.
What minimum tire width are these wheels suiteble for? Are they good for 25 mm or they need 28mm?
Interesting review, difficult to comparison against winspace due to different depths. Would be interesting to know the comparison between the two brands with the same depth wheels.... perhaps a different front/rear depth combo would be the ideal middle ground, eg. 40/50. Would the Drive 50s, equal the Winspace 50s for flat speed, Drive 50Vs are only 50g lighter?
I also understand the 'blunt' U shape is more cross wind resistant, but is there a downside (at some point) for aerodynamics?
Precisely what I was wondering! I am thinking the 50s set, or a 40 front and 50 rear for excellent climbing still, but with added aero capability. Would love to see this combo tested and compared to the first review of the 40s.
Thanks for the review, just placed an order for a pair.
Hey, what Mobil red greese are you using on your ball's ,red lithium,shc 220? Or xhp 220 keep up the great banter cheers
Great! A nice surprise for a rainy Monday!
Great vid, do you sell the deeper thread lock nut ?
not on the website but you can email me and I'll make them.
@Hambini madness!!!⚡⚡⚡
You should sell that locknut and a micro spline one.
Thanks for the informative review.
Rim for the win
It so interesting Engineer Hambini. Love you always 🤙
Interesting. Reviews well. I'd be interested to see your take on the Elite BWT RXL wheels. I'm wondering if the quality extends across their range.
What clearance would you need for the 30mm external wheel ? Noting clearance is normally for the tyre ?
I bought Elite SLT. The rear hub started to play right out of the box. I disassembled the hub and one of the ceramic bearings was loose. I don’t recommend buying it.
Master Hambini, could you please give a more exact ref of the mobil 1 grease? too many variants pop up on google...
We need to know the grease exact specifications so we can Hambini grease our hubs.
are there any disadvantages on well greasing the ratchet arms to reduce ratchet noise when freewheeling?
It tends to attract all kinds of debris and can also cause the pawls to stick down. I always use a few drops of mineral brake fluid for lubrication.
Hambini with the spock hairdo.. Elite blow drying 🖖🏼
Would you review the Polygon line of bicycles? They have aluminum and carbon frames.
Any updates on adding the freehub nut to your shop? I would love to get one myself, I feel the ones you get with a casette are one misstep from crossthreading/overthightening
Would most of the improved stability be because the rim is not as deep? The curve looked alot like one of the 35mm deep wheels you reviewed. Might be more fair to compare the wheel to others of simular depth?
Is it possible that you do a new study of aerodynamic wheels including 28mm tyres at it seems to become more popular? I am wondering if I should change from 25mm to 28mm with this wheelset as it would align with the 105 rule.
Great review, I just wish they would show up! 3 weeks.... Not even so much as a middle finger.
How would you rate the rim brake performance to an aluminum brake track wheel? I have Campagnolo Shamal Ultra C17s?
You've talked about the Mobil grease a couple times now, is that standard NLGI #2 or something special?
We need to know what kind of grease it is. Definatly.
I have read on various sources, always use NLGI #2 bearing grease for wheel bearings and bottom brackets. That is what I use.
hambini special for sure
Hambini, you've slagged off the Zipp wheels in the past, but I think you should do a review of the new version of their 303 Firecrest and let us know whether you think the new design lives up to the claims!
Did they give you one of their disc wheels to test and review? Price looks good and I was wondering if I should replace my Zipp 1080 that is 9-10 years old
I have the same notches in my rear hub and used the exact same method you did. It's the only logical reason for them being there. Be aware when tightening, you can cause a burr on the edges (if you tighten the cap tight af). This will then, obviously, impede the replacement of the cap. However, I found, a sharp tap with a hammer sorts it out.
l'd wonder how 2-5 spoke wheels perform. l heared from people (l think from silca) running tests with specialized saying a 3 spoke in the front is as fast as a disc ... would like to know other aspects of x-spoke full carbon wheels
Love your vids and have ? How do you compare the overall quality of these wheels to that of the early millennium Mavic Ksyriums
Interesting content as normal, could you let me know the max load weight of these wheels please. Unfortunately I need to loose a few lbs but it's easier to buy wheels that can take my load! Keep up the good content.
Max riders weight according to their website is 275lbs/125kg
I have the Elite 60 mm front and back set, absolutely best wheels I ever got. Sadly only thing I hate is the ratchet noise, my old 7 speed freewheel makes zero noise.
Thank you for this comment. How does the noise compare to DT Swiss' "angry bumble bee" noise (louder, quieter, etc.)?
@@sloprun Not going to lie here about the same just slightly lower.
wondering if you'll be reviewing light bicycle falcon pro AR375/565 series wheels as well?
I said the only thing I don’t like about these wheels are the ceramic Bearings very curious on the wear and tear on the hubs from such a hard material
They are standard bearing size, so just swap them out for some nice NTNs once the ceramics are done
Is is worth mentioning of low MOA and gyroscopic effect as they relate?
So based on your recent recommendation, I got a set of Farsports Ventoux that through a series of events ended up on my climbing rig. Do you think it's worth replacing them with a set of the Elite 40V ultralights? Both have carbon spokes, good power transfer, good braking for descents... not sure if I would notice the ~200 to 250g on steep climbs, although the pricing on the elites is far better. Would you say the farsports ventoux hubs are superior? Honestly, not a big fan of the wacky looking elite hubs.
Ghosted
fk yeah i was waiting for this engineering review
No porpoising problems ?
Hambini does rimming? LMFAO
Those slits in the brake track are called siping no?
Is the moment of inertia not dominated by the tyre mass?
If you filled the cutouts in the front hub with some lightweight material, say styrofoam, could you actually measure the improved aerodynamics and would you even feel it?
What would the spike tension be in the drive 50D ?
I am a big fan of shallow rims
210 mm cranks Goddamn! How tall are you because that definitely doesn't sound healthy for your knees?
Great Review. Do you know if you got the "Team Version" or "Ultralight" version of the rim? Elite's website states the only difference is the Team rim is slightly heavier and stiffer, and advertised at 1325gms. Also, what brake pads did you use?
Brake Pads come with the wheelset, I would imagine he used those
Seen someone out in full gcn kit today. When's your Jersey coming out?
Hi what would you choose between these Elitewheels and Lun Hyper 38?
elite also has a 50mm and now even a 65mm wheel. are you going to test that too?
I want to avoid carbon spokes so I have my eyes on the Elitewheels Marvel wheelset.
Any idea if the Marvel's rim is as well made as the Drive's rim?
Thanks for the review! How many teeth does the ratchet have (this info doesn't appear on the website)? Is it always the case that it's better to have more teeth on the ratchet?
With the ratchet I'm assuming you mean the cassette? Right, if so then it doesn't come with the wheels, you'll need to install that yourself it's very simple actually :) (you will need a shimano cassette tool though)
And no it's not always better to have a bigger cassette, the bigger the cogs, the lower your gear, the easier it is to pedal and of course you'd need to pedal more often to get to the same speed as someone with a smaller cassette.
Whatever cassette you use really just comes down to personal preference, I like my 26-11t cassette but most people use a 30/32t-11/12/13t cassettes. Also if you do end up adding the cassette yourself you will need to Check what size your derailleur cage is, a small derailleur cage for example could only hold a cassette with a maximum of 28t in the biggest cog. Good luck
@@tonyderechte3928 Thanks, though I meant the ratchet that is inside the hub of the rear wheel. I'm not sure if there is an optimum number of teeth that that ratchet has to have. Marketing seems to sell that the more teeth, the better (as there is a quicker engagement).
@@lucasandino9774 oh lol, well I don't know the answer to that, my knowledge of bikes is just fundamental.
But now I'll have to read what you were talking about so thanks for that.
Any chance of putting big brand wheels on those graphs?
I've been running some elite wheels for the last few months, fastest wheels I've had and run great, been trashing them but they're holding up great....
proud of you
Hello,
I would like to purchase ELITEWHEELS SLT Road Carbon Wheels rim brake for my road bike.
I need your help to choose the correct rim outer width to match with my road bike. I was thinking to go with 50mm depth 27mm, I don't know this will fit with my bike
For your information my current rim specs are: Surface, 700C, 28H, 19mm Internal Width and 30mm Deep and the tire size is 25c
Could you please help me to get the right size?
please, what mobil grease is it?
Well the problem with mine is the well known front hub loose bearing due to deformed hub flange as since the spokes are positioned at the very end of the hub. They have changed the hub design on all new orders but for mine they're sending larger bearings to compensate which imo is a shitty bandaid solution. I haven't received the bearings yet but I wish they'd just take back the front wheel and replace it completely as mine is brand new and the problem is apparent in the first kilometer. So I got an unusable set of wheels for the last 3 months.
You're so fucked bud.
I just don't get deep dish wheels unless you do TT. b
Beyond 38mm for most amateur riders is just a trade off. Most of us want quick acceleration from the lights and rarely hit over 40kmh on the road. Think of lightened flywheels and torque converters on race cars especially rally cars with bursts of stop start acceleration. The bicycle wheel rim and tyres do the same thing. Flywheels are chosen by engine builders specifically for courses it's that important but often overlooked.
Any concern over the strength of the hub flanges given the light weight treatment?
Would really like to see how the Elite BWT RXL 45 compare in cross wind stability with their undulating pattern, with the hypers was thinking the 50s would be too deep for my preferences, where I am
I have the Elite Drive 40 disc brakes, the Elite BWT, and the Hyper 38. The Elites are as stiff as hypers but since these are aero optimized for 28 and the larger internal width they are VERY different in feel to the Hypers. Feels faster due to the lower weight and much more comfy. The BWT is slow and I only use them for training or endurance ride. They all seem to perform well in crosswind and yes I like 40 wheels more than 50 which I've sold them all. FYI the weights on mine are: Hyper 38 Disc 1420gr, Elite Drive D40 1253gr, Elite BWT 1507gr.
@@thebespokecyclist3624 Do you think the increased comfiness of the Elites vs the Hypers is due to the width?
@@DEXVD Not only width but also the fact that you MUST use 25 on Hypers but 28 on the Elites as they're aero optimized as such. So what wheels you get depends on what tire size you want to use. For me personally since the roads locally are shit and when the wheels are light enough + tubeless setup, I'm probably faster and in less pain with all 28 going forward.
@@thebespokecyclist3624 Apologies for resurrecting this thread, but I'm curious how you've come to the concusion that the BWT is slow, and if it's far behind the Hypers and Drive. I'm currently interested in the BWT RXLs, Hyper 2023s, and Drive which you've all previously ridden. Thanks!
@@renzoantonio9985 Now that I've got to test out the new Hyper D45, old 38, Elite D40 and BWT I can comment on the differences. The BWT feels like the old Zipp sawtooths, heavy lumbering but very good at crosswinds. Slow to get up to speed but stable once it reaches high speed due to the higher weight and inertia. The new D45 is just slightly more affected by crosswinds compared to the 38. Stiff and faster than the BWT but accelerates slower than the 38 due to the heavier rear wheel and the use of 28 at the back and 25 on front. At high speed though the D45 is the best of the bunch. The Elite D40 is actually the best all around even with 28 front rear still the lightest wheel + tire setup I got and most fun but I got the old hub which got recalled and needed a bearing replacement (which I'm not sure how long before the issue arises again). I'm using the BWT for my home trainer and training on road bike as it's a proven workhorse that can take abuse. If I have to buy 2 wheels now I'd buy the 2023 Hyper D45 for peloton or racing and the Elite D40 which is lighter than even the new Hyper 33 for climbing and the all around bike. Elite are shipping all new Drive wheels with newly designed hubs now so you'll be safe. Forge the BWT and old Hypers altogether.
What are your thoughts on Xentis Mark wheels?
Interested to see you mix greases, with manufacturer’s packing and the Mobil. Are there any risks with doing that ? Or do you need to properly know what materials you are using and hence what is ‘fine’ ?
It's not really going to b ea doomsday scenario despite what you might hear in cycling forums. You'll generally find the greases melt at slightly different temperatures and the viscosity is different. If you are using one grease, then you'll get uniformity. With multiple greases you'll have a bit of variation.
@@Hambini What is that red Mobile grease that was recommended. We need to know!
Hi Hambini what do you mean about Farsports tubeless wheels with rim without holes for nipples, for rim brakes?
Surprised they didn't send you the amended version of that hub it is quite different. looking at other reviewers..I believe luke @Tracevelo had those ones.
Love the anodised finish ..
his was a disc, on the rim it's a different setup.
Are elite D65 better build quality than zipp 808?
Hambini pls try the avian wheelset
Hambini time!!!
Is that mobile SHC-100 grease mate?
Would you market that lockring as an aftermarket item?
Yes. It will be available in my shop shortly
What size casette are you riding?
winspace hypers or elite drives?
When you measure the imbalance do you measure without a valve? Ideally, you would want an imbalanced wheel that becomes balanced after you put the valve on...
it's measured as a bare wheel.
@@Hambini I just know that the custom carbon wheels I build with good rims and hubs will oscillate and stop with the valve hole on top... An alloy tubeless valve is only about 5 grams but that's not insignificant, actually, 5 grams is quite a lot of carbon fiber epoxy...
I prefer the feeling of wheels with higher moments of inertia, the cruising speed feeling as well as the feeling of loading the wheel out of a corner, then it shoots you forward once you spin it up
I don't know how anyone can desire to have a wheel that has a higher moment of inertia. In terms of energy transfer, You will always be slower.
@@Hambini what about when riding in a Fast Pack with a rather constant speed, without traffic lights, basically a closed-loop (we have 2 of these in Paris) ?
@@Hambini in an hour record type sustained effort scenario with no elevation changes and only one acceleration at the start, would heavier wheels be more efficient? Once they're "up to speed" would the energy required to maintain speed under such velodrome circumstances be lower?
@@RoflcopterOoOoO purely theoretical but you'd still take longer to get up to speed at the start.
Overall, are they better than Winspace?
HELLO HAMBINI!💪👍🥰
Does the acceleration of the wheel depend mainly on the weight or the depth of the wheel? I'm asking this because Elite Wheels offer a 50 mm depth wheel that weighs just 30 grams more than the 40 mm deep ones.
It would also be nice to have, eventually, the stability curve of the 50 mm deep wheel. Thanks!
that stability curve will be on the website soon, as the wheel gets deeper, it will generally become more unstable and the acceleration will get worse.
@@Hambini thanks! This is interesting. I would've thought it's the weight that ultimately matters for acceleration (as many think throughout the internet).
@@lucasandino9774 it would depend on consistencies in the distribution of materials in the construction.
Thanks@@glennoc8585. Do you mean lighter material at different depths? This is getting complicated.
I have a pair. Really good in 50mm rim brakes. They are loud when I brake, but it's maybe contamination. I use the Shimano carbon pads, but if anyone has a recommendeded altenative I'll be glad to know. 🌚
I prefer swissstop
Second this, used swisstop for years, expensive but really good
Thank you guys, I order 2 pairs to try them out. Cheers!
But where do they sit on the scale ? That's right, the fucking scale !! I (we) miss the fucking scale !!!
What did the Lepratic Frenchie say to Tyrone ?
Keep the tip.
I'm laughing, is anyone else ?
Since when has the internal and external width of a rim been called a " diameter" ?.
Since I said it in my video
@@Hambini lol
At least I have learned to put the volume off at the beginning of a video
Beautiful wheels, but the customer service is the worst.
Found a little impact damage on the edge of the front wheel (DRIVE 50V) and informed them the day after I received the package. They insinuated I caused the damage on the first ride - when I didn't even have time to set them up at all. They offered me nothing and haven't been reacting to mails since then.
An absolute disgrace.
Dude you lose me when you get into the engineering side but your funny as fuck I watch anyways
Seen the title and feared the worst but thankfully no hairdressers were harmed (or turned on) in the making of this video. So far as we know at least.
disc brakes do not warp if one buys the mtb stuff and they just brake better in bad weather ...
you should manufacture and sell cassette locknuts
Does he have a Yorkshire accent?
Hambini aged five into rimming. Kids grow up quick these days. SMH.
Want to see any kind of real world test with timer.
I hardly disagree with the stability. I have the 50D and it is very unstable compared to my old Bontrager XXX. Had a Hyper 50 too which I sold not too long ago, they’re about the same. These are good quality wheels but I think the Chinese aren’t on par with the west when it comes to aerodynamics.
What's the weight of your old XXX?
Bought a set of elite wheels G45 wheels on the strength of several reviews of Elite Wheels, however I'm struggling with first setup.
Rear wheel will not spin when the cassette is attached with even minimal torque. (it will freewheel with a very nice sounding ratchet. but wheel seems to be stuck when trying to pedal) Is this something I am obviously doing wrong? (cassette is from another bike with same Shimano freehub standard, swapped back with no issues on old wheel).
Any advice, much appreciated!