Yeah I would never install those bulky resistors. If your system works like mine then the lights should retract on high or low beam if you still have the engine running.
Seeing is important. Spend the big money and get a pair of ACA Bi Led projectors from Sharp Light Innovations. I tried every kind of LED bulb in my C5, none of them produced nearly the light or pattern of the projectors I installed on my Jeep. So I went for broke and spent the money on the projectors offered by Sharp Light. All I can say is they are worth twice what they cost. Unreal light output with the sharp cutoff projectors offer. I also use a Hi-4 harness, with the projectors being LED and the High beams also a very bright LED the road lights up at night like it is daytime, I kid you not. I live in rural Florida, it gets DARK out here, the Bi Led projectors are worth their weight in gold IMO.
I got caught in a rain storm last night while driving for the first time. Couldn't see a thing. The maker said you may or may not need the resistor. What causes this?
The module that controls the headlights going up and down depends on the load that the motors draw. That's how it knows that the lights are all the way up or down. There are no limit switches to stop the motors. After messing with these lights I have found out it also depends on the load the bulbs pull. The LED lights pull much less current than the halogen so if your lights are on dim there is not enough load to activate the closing action. The resistors add more load to the system which fixes the problem but they are bulky and put out a lot of heat. Since my system has the high 4 mod and keeps the low beams on all the time then turning on the high beams loads the system enough to close the lights. I definitely recommend the hi 4 mod and have a video on installing it. To make things more confusing I found out recently that if I shut the lights off when the car is running then the lights will close even if just the low beams are on. Apparently system voltage affects it too since running voltage is closer to 14V. I didn't use the resistors and I'm very happy with the way the system works. I gives more options on whether to leave the lights open or not.
@@xpsgarage I’m not crazy about LED in these cars due to all the electrical problems they can have. I’m thinking about just getting better halogen bulbs and trying that. Surly bulb technology has improved over 20 years.
@@xpsgarage I just watched a video on LED bulbs ( not Vette lights) and he said if the car was running and he turned his lights off they would go down whether on low or high beam. Have you tried that?
@@mikeanddebboyers6822 Yes I found that out and mentioned it at the end of the comment above. Apparently system voltage also affects it. Did you decide what you want to try yet?
I just did my LED lights and I’m with you my man I’ll just flick my highbeams on to get them to retract
Yeah I would never install those bulky resistors. If your system works like mine then the lights should retract on high or low beam if you still have the engine running.
Seeing is important. Spend the big money and get a pair of ACA Bi Led projectors from Sharp Light Innovations. I tried every kind of LED bulb in my C5, none of them produced nearly the light or pattern of the projectors I installed on my Jeep. So I went for broke and spent the money on the projectors offered by Sharp Light. All I can say is they are worth twice what they cost. Unreal light output with the sharp cutoff projectors offer. I also use a Hi-4 harness, with the projectors being LED and the High beams also a very bright LED the road lights up at night like it is daytime, I kid you not. I live in rural Florida, it gets DARK out here, the Bi Led projectors are worth their weight in gold IMO.
I definitely considered those lights. My long term plan is to build something custom so I didn't want to speed any more money.
I got caught in a rain storm last night while driving for the first time. Couldn't see a thing. The maker said you may or may not need the resistor. What causes this?
The module that controls the headlights going up and down depends on the load that the motors draw. That's how it knows that the lights are all the way up or down. There are no limit switches to stop the motors. After messing with these lights I have found out it also depends on the load the bulbs pull. The LED lights pull much less current than the halogen so if your lights are on dim there is not enough load to activate the closing action. The resistors add more load to the system which fixes the problem but they are bulky and put out a lot of heat. Since my system has the high 4 mod and keeps the low beams on all the time then turning on the high beams loads the system enough to close the lights. I definitely recommend the hi 4 mod and have a video on installing it. To make things more confusing I found out recently that if I shut the lights off when the car is running then the lights will close even if just the low beams are on. Apparently system voltage affects it too since running voltage is closer to 14V. I didn't use the resistors and I'm very happy with the way the system works. I gives more options on whether to leave the lights open or not.
@@xpsgarage I’m not crazy about LED in these cars due to all the electrical problems they can have. I’m thinking about just getting better halogen bulbs and trying that. Surly bulb technology has improved over 20 years.
@@mikeanddebboyers6822 New bulbs will help. That's what I tried first and it was an improvement.
@@xpsgarage I just watched a video on LED bulbs ( not Vette lights) and he said if the car was running and he turned his lights off they would go down whether on low or high beam. Have you tried that?
@@mikeanddebboyers6822 Yes I found that out and mentioned it at the end of the comment above. Apparently system voltage also affects it. Did you decide what you want to try yet?