Replacing O2 Sensor & Ignition Module - '93 Chevy K3500 454
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- Опубликовано: 16 сен 2024
- Continuing my quest to figure out what is wrong with this truck. I tried disconnecting the EGR valve to see if any change. But, the problem just so happen to start after connecting a couple wires, though I don't think it's related, so I disconnect those to see if there is any change. I try turning the truck off and back on and make a small breakthrough, the truck runs fine for a short time after turning it off... I remove a stuck O2 sensor and replace an old crusty ignition module
for a '93 Chevy K3500 454. Visit from sneakers the inspector kitty.
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I believe that dialectic grease is to be applied bottom metal plate of the module
oops
Exactly
Hey. You are very talented. I just put a thermostat in backwards 2nd time in ten years same car. I realized 5 minutes after. Luckily it's easy to get to and has a rubber seal.
yes, it's like installing a heatsink on a desktop cpu, the grease is a heat transfer compound.
Dielectric grease is to prohibit corrosion on electronic connections.
Heat sink compound is a different product designed to divert heat from one component to another.
Keep using dielectric on your connections.
Use heat sinking compound on components that need to transfer heat from an electronic device.
It's doing the same thing my 97 Pontiac did, you need a fuel pressure regulator. Not expensive and very easy to replace.
Good Luck!
Fuel pump. Try adding gas straight to carb and see if it does it
try just the ignition key ,the weight of all the keys can make older ignition switch cut out sporadically.
I'm also of the mindset that it's fuel related. I'm thinking either the fuel pump is sucking something up and it clogs the fuel pickup and when you shut it off it allows the vacuum to let looses what ever is clogging the fuel pickup. Also try taking the fuel cap off when it is doing this is make sure that it's not pulling a vacuum on the tank. If you take the gas cap off while its still running and the problem goes away the tank vent is clogged.
Hard at it Nathan the man Mr fix it thanks much 😅😅🎉🎉
Dejan Vu going on here. I have a 93 chevy van, same symptoms same repairs. Scanner was no help, no one knew what it was. It was the ecu. Bought one from O'Reilly, didn't work. Bought one from a salvage yard for$25...fixed. Be sure to swap your chip inside the ecu to the new ecu. Unless you get the exact same chip from an identical year model truck. BTW....after the salvage fix,changed out the O'Reilly junk ecu out for a new one and it worked. I think they sold me one that someone fried and returned.
It fixes it when you turn the key off that seems like that would be electrical to me and with your gauges fluctuating like crazy have you noticed that your dash gauges are moving around at weird times look into electrical. Really doesn’t sound like a fuel issue if it was a fuel issue turning the key off and turning it back on certainly wouldn’t resolve that. And I love the new kitty it’s nice that Kitty has a friend in you😊
Sandra do inside your fuel pump. Your tank might be pretty bad and you’re sucking up metal rust and it’s getting into the line and shut it down. When you turn the key off at releases everything to normal when you turn it back on it’s sucking Wrigley gas and it goes on normally until it bounces to get more rest you need to clean the tank and put a new fuel pump in.
Nate Try checking your grounds on the Cab to the Engine Block and to the frame of the truck , I had a plow truck i was working on one time did the same thing execpt you had no power when you put it into drive , Found out it had a bad ground from the cab to the Frame and engine to frame added some new grounds and it fixed it. I would make some Heavy duty Grounds up and Bolt them on.
Nathan…just a quick follow up to my comment about the computer capacitors…as I’m sure you already are going to do…please disconnect both the positive and negative battery terminals and turn the ignition on and headlights on for a moment to make sure no residual power is in the system.
Try undoing your gas cap.. maybe the gas tank vent is clogged.. Dennis
You guys may be right, we have these little black bees around here that like to pack mud into small places and plug up holes
My 92 k1500 had the same problem, although it was the 350. But the temp sensor on the block, and the idle air control valve had both tested bad and when I replaced them after weeks of denial, boom, no more surging, lack of power, and mine would burn very rich 5 minutes after a cold start. Black smoke out of the tailpipe. And that stopped.
I wish I knew which one of those two sensors was bad, but changing them both solved the problem.
Hey Nathan…I had similar issues with a 1990 F250 Pickup…replaced every sensor and had new fuel pump…finally decided to just pull the computer…once I opened it…found the (3) capacitors had all leaked…ordered replacement capacitors…installed in computer and it corrected the issue…it will only cost time to at least take a visual of your unit…found out that a sitting vehicle is not the best for the electronics…hope you get a remedy very soon sir.
May God Bless all your efforts.
The scanner will be good , Good job getting the sensor out . Sometimes I use carburetor cleaner a few times on 02 sensors after i get them to move . Then go to penetrating oil . The carburetor cleaner will eat any carbon off the threads easier . The lube would go under the module . It is so it will not corrode between it and distributer . Not the same , but sorta like thermal paste
see if it does it without actually driving the truck at all...that will help eliminate a bad connection that acts up from bumps and driving.
Money is in the throttle position sensor ....will idle fine and usually run fine at wide open throttle....but dies anyplace in between
I always watch but rarely comment...I always push the like button though. I only have, and only work on 'old' vehicles. Here we go...Hope this helps!
Ignition modules either work or they don't. Your original one is fine. You are not loosing spark. (Exact same module as my cars and they are not American)
The module needs heat compound to go between the flat metal side and where it mounts. Without it, the module 'will' overheat and die. (Same stuff as heat sink compound on a PC)
Fuel pressure needs to be checked (I know the pump is new) But I doubt this is the issue. Can't tell till the pressure is checked.
Single wire OT sensor, needs voltage to it. Check you have this. Either 5 or 12 volts...I don't know which. Only ever seen one Chevy truck on the road over here and never worked on one.
I'm putting money on bad ECM/ECU. Capacitors go bad and leak, they can ruin the traces on the board...You have these symptoms.
An OBD1/OBD2 scan tool is handy and a good purchase...But I doubt will show you anything with a bad ECM/ECU. (You don't even have a check engine light on)
I don't know if the one you are getting will show live data and if/when Crusty it is going into closed loop when up to temp.
I've now re-capped and repaired 11 ECM/ECU's all from vehicles between 1988 & 1994. Every one fixed the issues. (2 of the vehicles were mine, my other 3 are carb)
Nathan...You are an extremely intelligent and competent guy, what you achieve on your own is incredible!
Please take out the ECM/ECU and have a look inside. It is well within your talents to repair this. A few new caps are cheap!
If not get another second hand know good one, but check it first for bloated leaking caps, vehicles of this age do not have the VIN written to the ECM/ECU, so a good one from the same vehicle should work.
My avatar picture (Red car) is a 1992 Peugeot 1.9 205 GTI (Fuel injected 4 cylinder. Had to rebuild the ECU 2 years ago for similar symptoms...Been 100% ever since)
I wish I could work on Crusty for you...But I'm the wrong country and the Ranch is forbidden anyway. You'll get Crusty sorted...You ALWAYS get there in the end! 👍
Thanks for liking and watching! And thanks for all the great info, that helps :)
I would say that a full fuel system overhaul is in order. New fuel pump, tank, lines, injectors, etc...
Fuel pump was replaced Months ago... might still need to check fuel pressure.. and EFI fuel solenoids to make they are both working..
Have you checked the Idle air control valve...had exactly the same issue and that was what it was...disconnect the connect on a Brown wire with a blk.stripe ...if it idles normal with that wire disconnected...bad iac valve
Possibly a weak battery. I've seen weak batteries cause all kinds of really strange problems.
I'd check every splice in the wiring that was made aftermarket and double check all the vacuum lines
I would check the ecu for old stored codes (pending) clear them obd2
Sometimes it will act as if there still is a problem just from a old code
olá Natan, a ECU está entrando em modo de emergência cortando a rotação do motor para o proteger. deve haver algum fio descascado causando um pequeno curto circuito toda vez que o carro chacoalha ao andar. necessário verificar onde os fios dos sensores se unem ao chicote principal, pode haver fios se encostando.
I’m going with others saying check the fuel pressure then do all of the ground checks then the computer could be going bad also.
Rent the fuel pressure guage that goes in line in between the throttle body and fuel line, eliminate all the guessing on fuel.
Nathan please clean all earth leads that should be better for the instrument clusters and stop jumping around and the main earth from engine and gearbox ,you said it's a Little rusty cleaner are better than half the earths working.
Miss fires if poor grounding from body to engine and battery also clean battery's terminals up and the leads that supply starter and alternator.
If you live in a area that rusts car's good contacts is a must.
Have you tried reading the codes running while it's not accelerating properly , turning it off is reseting itself temporally . got to agree whith you the ignition module is most likely to be a problem when it gets warm, fingers crossed for you as part bombing is costly
Id check the fuel pump nate,seems to be the symptoms😎
This sounds like a problem I had with a petrol engine bedford truck 30 years ago, happened twice over a period of 5 years. !st occasion problem turned out to a kernal of barley that must have fallen into petrol tank whilst refueling. Managed to suck up fuel pickup tube and lodged into a right angle fitting going into a glass fuel bowl. Sounds simple but by heck it took a lot of trouble shooting to finally locate problem. On the second time around, turned out to be a spider web lodged half way up the pickup tube. On both occasions engine ran fine up to a certain speed then simply lost power after that. Ignore any of this if you have a fuel filter on the pickup tube, in my case they did not.
Fuel pressure problem.
Thanks!
Thanks for the help!
fuel problem. there's a clog somewhere which becomes unclogged via back pressure when the truck is shut off.
I do not remember what all pids one can get on obd1 . But looking at even coolant sensor temps , maybe crank sensor signal. . Fuel pressure gauge will be nice as you can monitor it and see if it changes when running bad. A drop throttle test to see if pressure maintains . Thinking it has a fuel pressure regulator with vacuum hose . If so can pull hose off and see if pressure changes , and see the block learn with scanner .
on a gm vehicle the ecm outputs a full data stream, but you need a pro-grade scan tool to read the live data. i have 3 scan tools that would work but i'm not close enough to oregon.
@@marzsit9833 Correct , I use a snap on scanner , but obd1 , has not nearly as many data pids as obd2 .
@@wtbm123 on a gm vehicle i would look at map, tps, integrator and block learn as well as loop status for this problem. unfortunately gm c3 does not do any diagnostic test routines like an obd-ii system would do. but at least you can read live data unlike pre-1990 ford eec-iv...
Start with a new battery
check throttle control sensor and map sensor
I had a problem with the throttle body that would do that replaced it and ran good
It kinda sounds like fuel starvation, maybe the fuel pickup filter sock is getting clogged when running and under vacuum, you turn the engine off and the vacuum drops so crud falls back off it letting you get enough fuel when you turn it on again? I had some weird rough idle and surging / laggy throttle issues with a motorbike and that turned out to be the problem. Might be because of a dirty fuel tank. You could syphon some fuel from the bottom of the tank to see if its dirty? Or take the sending unit out.
yup i agree and put some of the grease under the module or you will come to a no start in the middle of BFE. Scan it and ck fuel pressure. Been out a long time due medical on my back and my flying days are over. Ya never know what tomorrow may bring. God Bless ya. Missed a lot of video's.
Check fuel pressure …my chevy k1500 stuttered underload until I replace the fuel pump
Ignition coil problems are,
Courtesy of GOOGLE hope it helps.. Was easier than typing from my fault finding books
One of the most common symptoms of a faulty ignition coil is when the vehicle runs for a while and then the car's engine suddenly dies for no apparent reason. This occurs after the ignition coil or module gets too hot, and usually will correct itself after the engine module cools. In some cases, a bad ignition coil will result in the vehicle not starting it all. Or, it may have characteristics of a flooded carburetor, where the vehicle runs very poorly or jerks and stops erratically.
If your vehicle is behaving erratically and you have problems with it running smoothly, it could be showing signs of ignition coil failure. The ignition coil takes power from the generator and relays it to the spark plugs. This ignites the fuel and makes your vehicle run. The severity of the symptoms vary according to which of the ignition coils are failing.
Perdón no se ingles pero me parece que el problema es el relay de la abomba de combustible ya está medio dañado al apagarlo y prenderlo este se desconecta y reconectar internamente pero a los pocos minutos vuelve a fallar haciendo que la bomba de combustible no funcione correctamente ya que le llega energía de forma errática
Have a suspicion that there may be a fault with the ignition switch.
Everybody advice is always a blessing , but it does it not getting hot or running temp it does it so random. It’s acts like heat soak , vapor lock, but it’s stock and still random. Check all your ground connections. Lose or rusted up , mouse chewed wires . It does it when it moves acts electrical , possibly fuel but stop shut off and start again runs fine for a few seams more electrical connections somewhere. I believe in the kiss solution . Keep it simple stupid. Check the simple things before you just throw money at it in parts . Won’t hurt it getting new parts , but can get rough 23:42 on the wallet. Check all your ignition connections also. Hope everyone’s comments find you a solution.
The fact that it resets after you turn the engine off and back on tells me it’s not heat related… It seems to me that the ECM may be getting confused or is just plain defective. It’s either that, or the fuel regulator, as many have suggested. Personally I would start with that, because finding an ECM may not be cheap. There are of course used ones…
Chevrolet in that year are good for the fuel pump to go out,it sounds like your fuel pump is going out
Back in the DAY'S I had issues with the coil breaking down once it gets warm want to stop and did stop Wait for about 45 minutes and go 🎉we would get a new coil !! But I would use a old one
Later 👍
Possible pickup coil inside distributor
Is the truck a TBI carb? My 94 was doing the same things and it turned out to be the throttle positioning sensor.
I’m thinking either ignition coil breaking down or maybe spark control module
Have u check the carburetor
My guess would be that distributors relucter wheel is bad replace distributor
Is there a 2nd video to this one?
Going into limp mode. Its an older car so im not sure what kind of computer it runs. But could it be turbo related. My car would do exactly the same thing. Turn it off would disappear. I cleaned the turbo out and was perfect
it all started when you put that fuel filter on there
Ive been thinking about that too
maybe the fuel filter is on backward that would cause it to hickup like its doing look for arrow on filter make sure its flowin the right way just a idea@@ClassALiving
ECU computer my bet $90 used ebay
Nathan, how many miles does that engine have on it?
About 270,000 if i remember correctly
Gas sensor what makes the gauge
To do that
Sounds like a computer. But check all your grounds look for crusty wire connections at the computer or anywhere you think it could be? the computer board might have a bad solder or crusties. Watch pine hollow diagnostics.
No tap set to chase those threads before hand?
Nope, it's on the list
in an earlier video he already did replace the fuel pump.
there's such a thing as crappy "new" fuel pumps
hmm good point
@@ClassALiving run a temporary fuel source and electric pump as a test ? easier to isolate/confirm fuel issue problem first, before tearing things apart, good luck ! note: make sure other fuel pumps are not operational during this test,lol
Could it be faulty sensor, contaminated fuel or air filters, or a faulty timing belt.? Idk just throwing it out there. Hope you find whats wrong with rusty
Did this start after you reconnected those wires the other day?
In the same time frame but idk
If the old trucks steering wheel don't make the tires turn 1/4 of a turn I don't want it
You’re showing me that you need a fuel pump and you need to clean the tank out
It has a new fuel pump
It's the battery is to small
@@ClassALiving get a new fuel tank to
Time for a fuel pump!
Are you still working on the camper
Yup
Yi
R
Get a boat fuel tank and see if she runs on that....
On your truck take A paper clip make a U and put it in the diagnostic and power part of your OBD1 your check engine or service engine soon light will blink 1 --- 2 x3 so it'll be,, blnk--blnkblnk cycle 2 more tims 3 total. then it'll go to code lets say it blinks 3 then 4 bln,bln,bln---bln,bln,bln,bln x3 that's code 34 witch is IMC THERE IS A CODE 12 but it wouldn't start at all doesn't happen much.
That sounds v8
i need that motor
what is it doing
dont trust them computer they will lie 2 u
Thanks!
Thanks for the help!