Up to 3/4 throttle the computer compensates for the unwanted exhaust gas entering the mixture through the stuck open EGR. After 3/4 throttle the computer goes into open loop preset fuel mixture. The EGR is supposed to be closed at this point. With it stuck open, the exhaust gas was killing your power. Great video with solid information! Gotta love those old trucks. Easy to work on and basically run forever, using cheap plentiful parts.
@@zephead4835 I don’t think a clogged EGR will trigger a no start condition. When I first got my 89 Silverado, it had been sitting for years. Nothing I tried could get it to start. After many new parts, including fuel tank, pump, sending unit and gas filter, nothing. It would run with starter fluid, or gas put directly down the throttle body, then die when it ran out. Turned out to be clogged injectors. Ethanol in gasoline plays havoc with fuel systems when sitting for prolong periods. I blew out my injectors using a 9v battery to trip them open, while squirting injector/carb cleaner through the injectors. Use wires with connectors, so as not to allow sparks and carb spray to mix! It fired right up after doing this. A few milligrams of powdery residue caused me a lot of trouble! You might also check your signal to your injectors with a noid light, or a volt meter to be sure they are being triggered.
I changed parts for 2 weeks avoiding this part due to its placement but thanks to you and the description! 15 mins fixed. (Still couldn’t get it as tight as I’d like
@@bryarmasingale61 I recommend you use an OBDII reader to see if there are any trouble codes. If it’s an earlier model of the c/k trucks and uses OBD1 try using a paper clip to connect the two top right terminals and it will flash any engine codes repeatedly. Codes will be stored for a long time (maintenance manual says it’ll keep them unless you’ve started up the engine 50 times without activating the same problem) so as long as you can turn the key to the on position without starting it you won’t risk doing any more damage to any parts while you search for the problem electrically. Usually with my fuel injected truck it’ll read code #12 three times, then any other codes will flash three times and repeat endlessly after code #12 until I remove the paper clip. This has slight changes for diesel, carbureted engines, and later models after 1995 as well as 4L60E/4L80E transmissions though. Some sensors that malfunction can be detected by the ECM, but they won’t necessarily stop the vehicle from running as the ecm uses presets to limp back home. So far one code I had was #34, but after replacing a MAP sensor my truck has run better at idle. Codes don’t always get fixed by just replacing the sensor though, like that code could’ve been caused by a clogged filter or loose vacuum line, but it’s a way to narrow things down. Good luck!
Thank you! This was so helpful! I’m about to replace the EGR on my ‘89 gmc suburban r1500! I’ve done that plugs & hopefully this will do the trick on the stalling/hesitation issue!
I’m having the same issue with my truck. I’ve changed so much shit on it and it keeps not fixing the problem so I’m gonna try this next, but the way you described it in the beginning of the video sounds exactly like what I’m going through.
Just changed one in my 94' 2 dr yukon along with the AIC. This is a spare truck and check engine light has been on since 05'. The EGR was totally shot and clogged up. The truck ran fine but idled about 11-1200 while sitting and occasionally stumbled at a stoplight. Not a ton of difference but does idle down to 900 and no stumble, check engine light still comes on. 214k on mine
I think my EGR was messing up. Major popping exhaust. Got a new one off rock auto. And it leaks. Sprayed the old one to living hell with carb cleaner and it isn’t as bad
Way my 93 chevy cheyenne 4.3 v6 is acting the trouble code says 32 for egr valve. Regular slow drive it dont do bad just when try goose it or hard acellerate it starts farting and pissing the bed. Think that egr is definately culprit. Had it idling in yard and for laughs and giggles took flat screwdriver and pressed open egr valve it acted exactly like it does on road under accelleration. Not sure if its stuck closed or just randomly tries opening. Great vid btw
I probably would use a vacuum to suck up some of the dirt n crud, plus when you scrape the old crud off it would get sucked into the vacuum. Still very gd video Thank You again. Subbed.
What would cause a slightly high idle. Around 1000-1100. I know the EGR needs to be replaced. Where the vacuum hose is is clogged up. It also has a exhaust leak that’s getting fixed today. Seems to run out fine
I checked my egr the way you showed me how to an it works like it should but my truck is still shutting off an idling like shit when I put it into gear the trans was just rebuilt, when it's in park it runs fine I'm uploading a video on it now it's just takeing awhile to upload
My 95 just had this issue, idle a little rough in park but in gear try to die. Had to use the 2 pedal method to get it moving and still it would lurch and try to die. Fixed mine with a fuel pump and fuel filter, replaced vacuum lines up top and runs like new now.
Great video… I have a question though, how far back do the runners in the intake manifold go. I’m trying to clean the carbon out of that area. Thank you
This has got me a little confused I have been researching this for a wile because I dont know if the EGR valve oem part number is for my 90 5.7 . I been trying to find the correct part. When I look up the part number you used it says it is a positive pressure valve, everything I read says these TBI 350's use a negative pressure valve. can you explain what I am not getting here?
I think my 93 z71 has that problem egr , I have good throttle but past half way it just Boggs, let of the the gas comes back to life gona try the egr ,
Nice !.. I hope this is my problem.. my sub hesitates and chokes from a stop , at first touch of throttle. . Let off and it returns to normal idle. Frusterating problem.
I have gmc w4 cabover with this 5.7 350 tbi and my studs and nuts look like they were melted to nothing by acid the egr sheet metal case snapped loose but the egr still works i have it strapped down in place im afraid of removing it for replacement not knowing what to do get threaded studs out sure hope not gonna have to remove the intake ....
I just replaced my TPS and its now throwing a 32 code. The check engine light only comes on at about 45 to 50 MPH. Below that putting around town the light is off.
Wouldn't the wrench be called a ratcheting box wrench instead of open end? Anyhow that's splitting hairs , you helped many obs ers including me. Thanks
you should never tighten one side down first and then the other , lightly snug them both down then tighten,. when you tighten one side down first, you make the part cock to one side or the other, this applies to any mating surface such as cylinder heads, intakes, carburetor bowls , ect.. try to get in the habit of tightening in steps and it will save u much grief.
im pushing 380.000 these trucks are legendary. climbing in value. we thought they were junk boxes, until we see the turds being sold now.. u have to know a great, honest mechanic, with several 5,000 scan tools, oscilliscope, subscriptions to ALLDATA, ect to get them fixed, or go to a stealership, and have them guess, because they dont know how to fix them either. they guess at the most expensive part first, then work down. they wont refund money, then tell u to trade it in with them, for another turd. They then resell it , and it gets flipped several times, until someone who can fix it gets it.
I have a 1995 GMC Yukon 5.7 TBI but my air filter looks nothing like yours. What is it that you have on there? I am new to trucks and motors, so forgive me if it should be obvious.
Hello guys , I have a question, my 1995 GMC Sierra v6 TBI engine, I have no idea the car start right up but when I’m moved to D or R the engine shut off right away, I have no clue what’s going on? So if your guys know please tell me what’s happen to my car and what’s part I need to fix , thank you so much everyone
They just don't make trucks like this anymore. 90 percent of the jobs you can do yourself like this. Great video
Up to 3/4 throttle the computer compensates for the unwanted exhaust gas entering the mixture through the stuck open EGR. After 3/4 throttle the computer goes into open loop preset fuel mixture. The EGR is supposed to be closed at this point. With it stuck open, the exhaust gas was killing your power. Great video with solid information! Gotta love those old trucks. Easy to work on and basically run forever, using cheap plentiful parts.
Question could a clogged EGR valve send a no start signal to the ECM I'm getting good spark good fuel but my injectors won't fire your thoughts?
@@zephead4835 I don’t think a clogged EGR will trigger a no start condition. When I first got my 89 Silverado, it had been sitting for years. Nothing I tried could get it to start. After many new parts, including fuel tank, pump, sending unit and gas filter, nothing. It would run with starter fluid, or gas put directly down the throttle body, then die when it ran out. Turned out to be clogged injectors. Ethanol in gasoline plays havoc with fuel systems when sitting for prolong periods. I blew out my injectors using a 9v battery to trip them open, while squirting injector/carb cleaner through the injectors. Use wires with connectors, so as not to allow sparks and carb spray to mix! It fired right up after doing this. A few milligrams of powdery residue caused me a lot of trouble! You might also check your signal to your injectors with a noid light, or a volt meter to be sure they are being triggered.
Background music was perfect for a awesome instructional video. Thank you...THUMBS UP
I changed parts for 2 weeks avoiding this part due to its placement but thanks to you and the description! 15 mins fixed. (Still couldn’t get it as tight as I’d like
What problem were you trying to chase down? My truck runs ok when cold then runs like shit when it warms up. Misfiring like crazy
@@Clamjammer I’m having the same issue as you and can’t figure it out, did you find a fix for yours?
@@bryarmasingale61 I recommend you use an OBDII reader to see if there are any trouble codes. If it’s an earlier model of the c/k trucks and uses OBD1 try using a paper clip to connect the two top right terminals and it will flash any engine codes repeatedly. Codes will be stored for a long time (maintenance manual says it’ll keep them unless you’ve started up the engine 50 times without activating the same problem) so as long as you can turn the key to the on position without starting it you won’t risk doing any more damage to any parts while you search for the problem electrically. Usually with my fuel injected truck it’ll read code #12 three times, then any other codes will flash three times and repeat endlessly after code #12 until I remove the paper clip. This has slight changes for diesel, carbureted engines, and later models after 1995 as well as 4L60E/4L80E transmissions though. Some sensors that malfunction can be detected by the ECM, but they won’t necessarily stop the vehicle from running as the ecm uses presets to limp back home. So far one code I had was #34, but after replacing a MAP sensor my truck has run better at idle. Codes don’t always get fixed by just replacing the sensor though, like that code could’ve been caused by a clogged filter or loose vacuum line, but it’s a way to narrow things down. Good luck!
IVE changed everything in my suburban but the EGR valve. hopefully that fixes the issues i have as well
Great video. Pulled mine off after watching this and its shot!
Hey Bro. Have the same year truck, same exact symptoms. After a full tune up and cat bypass this is my next attempt. Truly believe this is it. Thanks!
William Djerf good luck!
@Carlos Jimenez check Map sensor?
Thank you! This was so helpful! I’m about to replace the EGR on my ‘89 gmc suburban r1500! I’ve done that plugs & hopefully this will do the trick on the stalling/hesitation issue!
Did the new egr help with hesitation?
Yeah did that help having that same problem. About to do it but I would like to know if that worked for you
I just did the egr I’ve done full tune up fuel filter the air valve on throttle body and pcv valve still having same issue wtf could it be
Half inch. Got it. Thanks lol. Nice tip for testing if diaphragm is good still also
Oh geez rip my ears in headphones w full volume when the turbo spooled opening your vid.
😆 sorry man
Dislike on vid just for wrecking my right ear
This helped me out a lot!! Not all heros wear capes
I’m having the same issue with my truck. I’ve changed so much shit on it and it keeps not fixing the problem so I’m gonna try this next, but the way you described it in the beginning of the video sounds exactly like what I’m going through.
Put the egr on still doin same shit
@@ashdav6201stop buying stuff. You gotta run test on everything. Even new parts can come broken. Save yourself time and money and test.
Just changed one in my 94' 2 dr yukon along with the AIC. This is a spare truck and check engine light has been on since 05'. The EGR was totally shot and clogged up. The truck ran fine but idled about 11-1200 while sitting and occasionally stumbled at a stoplight. Not a ton of difference but does idle down to 900 and no stumble, check engine light still comes on. 214k on mine
I have a 2 door Yukon as well. And it feels like it wants to die on me at a stop sign or traffic light stop
@@Why-ct3gv Have you checked the spark plugs.
BWD -boerg warner is awesome for supplying every needed gasket.
349,252 mi?!!! C'MON!!
Mine has 219,000! Amazing😊❤ I'm glad you showed this video. I'll replace it tomorrow along with MAP
i took a 1/2 wrench and bent the closed end on a vise just slightly. used a hammer to tap tight.
that back bolt is a pain in the ass.
349k on the dash hell yeah brother. leter rip tater chip.
Thanks for video saved me 80 bucks
I think my EGR was messing up. Major popping exhaust. Got a new one off rock auto. And it leaks. Sprayed the old one to living hell with carb cleaner and it isn’t as bad
Way my 93 chevy cheyenne 4.3 v6 is acting the trouble code says 32 for egr valve. Regular slow drive it dont do bad just when try goose it or hard acellerate it starts farting and pissing the bed. Think that egr is definately culprit. Had it idling in yard and for laughs and giggles took flat screwdriver and pressed open egr valve it acted exactly like it does on road under accelleration. Not sure if its stuck closed or just randomly tries opening. Great vid btw
Muy buen video, bien explicado, suscrito desde hoy! Saludos de monterrey n.l. mexico
I probably would use a vacuum to suck up some of the dirt n crud, plus when you scrape the old crud off it would get sucked into the vacuum. Still very gd video Thank You again. Subbed.
Did you notice any difference In acceleration or exhaust? Helpful video btw
Just get some small vaccum line and slide it over your crack to repair the line.👍
You helped me so much. Thank you for this video.
Reed glad to help man!
What would cause a slightly high idle. Around 1000-1100. I know the EGR needs to be replaced. Where the vacuum hose is is clogged up. It also has a exhaust leak that’s getting fixed today. Seems to run out fine
Great vid, very informative. Did your truck have an erratic idle on cold start and stalling issues when warm prior to change?
That's what mine is doing right now.
Ever figure out what was wrong same problem
Mines does that and my egr isn’t working
I checked my egr the way you showed me how to an it works like it should but my truck is still shutting off an idling like shit when I put it into gear the trans was just rebuilt, when it's in park it runs fine I'm uploading a video on it now it's just takeing awhile to upload
Check your tps or pcv valve or your iac valve it will for sure be one of those
Idle control valve. Is what that sounds like
My 95 just had this issue, idle a little rough in park but in gear try to die. Had to use the 2 pedal method to get it moving and still it would lurch and try to die. Fixed mine with a fuel pump and fuel filter, replaced vacuum lines up top and runs like new now.
thanks for the video
Man that into was loud but it sounded great
Great video… I have a question though, how far back do the runners in the intake manifold go. I’m trying to clean the carbon out of that area. Thank you
Helpful video. Thanks!
Coming from the north and these being fairly old now, I've seen these egrs almost never come loose. They can be a bastard.
This has got me a little confused I have been researching this for a wile because I dont know if the EGR valve oem part number is for my 90 5.7 . I been trying to find the correct part. When I look up the part number you used it says it is a positive pressure valve, everything I read says these TBI 350's use a negative pressure valve. can you explain what I am not getting here?
If your GVW is above 8500 you need a ported egr valve.
Did you ever get this resolved? I have a 91 that needs a negative
My truck runs fine but a check engine lights comes on my 94 its the code 32 so that's why I want to replace it
Could be solenoid too from what I'm reading
I think my 93 z71 has that problem egr , I have good throttle but past half way it just Boggs, let of the the gas comes back to life gona try the egr ,
Nice !.. I hope this is my problem.. my sub hesitates and chokes from a stop , at first touch of throttle. . Let off and it returns to normal idle. Frusterating problem.
Quality video!
I have gmc w4 cabover with this 5.7 350 tbi and my studs and nuts look like they were melted to nothing by acid the egr sheet metal case snapped loose but the egr still works i have it strapped down in place im afraid of removing it for replacement not knowing what to do get threaded studs out sure hope not gonna have to remove the intake ....
I just replaced my TPS and its now throwing a 32 code. The check engine light only comes on at about 45 to 50 MPH. Below that putting around town the light is off.
Very well made video thank you!
Thanks! No problem
Wouldn't the wrench be called a ratcheting box wrench instead of open end? Anyhow that's splitting hairs , you helped many obs ers including me. Thanks
you should never tighten one side down first and then the other , lightly snug them both down then tighten,. when you tighten one side down first, you make the part cock to one side or the other, this applies to any mating surface such as cylinder heads, intakes, carburetor bowls , ect.. try to get in the habit of tightening in steps and it will save u much grief.
Sounds like your nuts are too tight, maybe your Spiderman briefs are too small?
349K miles WOW I only have 251K
im pushing 380.000 these trucks are legendary. climbing in value. we thought they were junk boxes, until we see the turds being sold now.. u have to know a great, honest mechanic, with several 5,000 scan tools, oscilliscope, subscriptions to ALLDATA, ect to get them fixed, or go to a stealership, and have them guess, because they dont know how to fix them either. they guess at the most expensive part first, then work down. they wont refund money, then tell u to trade it in with them, for another turd. They then resell it , and it gets flipped several times, until someone who can fix it gets it.
I have a 1995 GMC Yukon 5.7 TBI but my air filter looks nothing like yours. What is it that you have on there? I am new to trucks and motors, so forgive me if it should be obvious.
It's a cold air intake he put on there.
Nice truck!
Very helpful!
Damn I wish Big Jim accelerated like that! Lol(my 95)
Would a bad EGR valve make a low idle and running rich my SUV is a 94 suburban Silverado edition TBI
Most likely. Mine is doing the same
My truck at idle or stop after idle too long like for 5 minutes it seems too have a misfire u think the egr is bad?
Wow what is that on the air filter location? Where did you buy it ?
Thanks for the tips. Appreciate it. Also gonna Sub.
Are You getting better mpg now?
How can I clean carbon build up in my 5.0 89 chevy Silverado it’s no passing emission test
What is that intake you have on there?
Did you ever find the vaccum line that was broke?? Im stuck and can't find them
Fabuloso water mix spray
Hello guys , I have a question, my 1995 GMC Sierra v6 TBI engine, I have no idea the car start right up but when I’m moved to D or R the engine shut off right away, I have no clue what’s going on? So if your guys know please tell me what’s happen to my car and what’s part I need to fix , thank you so much everyone
Was yours shifting hard on 2nd gear but after good ? Also hesitant when stepping on it from stop???
I have the exact same problem.
Same issues
Also same. Did any of you fix it
I had two codes for O2 sensor and knock sensor. Replaced the O2 running better now, knock is next.
William H. Bonney i changed the throttle position sensor and fixed my problem
I replaced egr valve and code 33 popped back up today. Any advice? My truck doesn’t have an exhaust either it was chopped when I bought the truck
Code 33 is map sensor, high voltage.
Did this fix the problem
I like the air cleaner where did u get it
Just off eBay
That inside bolt is NOT easy. 89 k1500. Having huge issues with that inside bolt
Will a bad EGR cause the truck to not start period
When hot only? Mine starts when cold only
I have a 91 with a 5.7 TBI good spark good fuel injectors won't fire could it be the EGR valve I've checked the ECM and it looks perfect inside
it would be nice to hear what your saying over the to loud obnoxious music
What type of Air filter it's that? It would go great on my truck..
Jarvis Perry it was just a kit off of eBay
What about if it stalls in gear at a stop?
Hey did you ever find this out?
@@KevinLSX619 yes, it was a bad distributor
@@loganshea4201 Thanks. Already replaced a lot of sensors, icm, dist cap and spark plugs. Gonna try this.