Went w Cleaning the old EGR...It's was Carbon Packed, after 15 min. of cleaning, and following the video step-by-step, the Engine Light went off, and it ran great !! The pindle was caked, it was most likely sticking..thx Frank
To all who say it would fly in a shop: I Took my car to a dealership today, they told me they would have to "start" by replacing the EGR valve and cleaning the manifold, because it was the "only way" to tell and it would be $584, and they hoped that would fix it, but if not, they'd have to keep digging. I would much rather my mechanic try this with a 50¢ can of coke first. Needless to say, I politely refused, paid them the $70 for their diagnostic, and stopped at advance auto for a egr valve, gasket, & carb cleaner. I already have a can here. Thanks but no thanks. I'll stick with our youtube mechanic richpin! Thanks again for another great video!
@@bradybelton6315 ye exactly, poor garage guy's get screwed by the public as well, it cut's both way's, NOT ALL mechanics are dishonest,trying to earn an honest living🤥
Hi Rich, thanks for another great video which really helped me out yesterday on my 1996 Saturn SW1 with over 264,000 miles. Your pop can method worked great in troubleshooting my problem. My problem was that my car was lurching while driving at speeds of around 45 mph. Blocking the exhaust from getting back into the intake using your pop can plate trick solved the lurching so I went and replaced my EGR valve and my car is once again running great (I'm back on my way to 300,000 miles and beyond).
Well done. I like the way you suggested checking it - better than seeing if you can gently push in the 'screw" thing on the valve opening (got that from the forums). We have taken the laptop into the garage to do stuff and watch your videos as a guide. Thanks!
Remember the aluminum can block off gasket will only work for a very short time before the hot exhaust gasses burn through it but enough time to check if the EGR was the problem.
Thanks mate. I'm doing this tomorrow on my lacetti. Same EGR valve as you show here . There only £20 new on eBay but I've got pop in the fridge so will try that first 👍
What this test does is to see if removing the valve temporary from the circuit will improve the running of the engine which would point to a faulty EGR.
very helpful thanks a bunch. had a po300-po306 each cylinder misfiring and po300 being random misfire on all cylinders. did your trick and the difference is night and day. will clean it tomorrow and see if it works, but if not I still saved a bunch of money on diagnostics and the egr is only 40.00 dollars. keep up the good work. thanks, Barfallenmule.
+Nazi Grammar - Chill Out :/// Some People use " O " as in " 0 ", because it might be easier for them or even an honest mistake :((((. Maybe you should try to teach them, rather than calling them names :(((. You can call People NAMES when they deserve it, but not in this case. :////
I eventually replaced my egr valve since cleaning the apparent good valve didn’t fix the alarm. Spent several labor dollars to no avail. Finally the mechanic said my computer needed replacing. Long story short, I disconnected the positive battery lead on my battery for about one hour, then re-connected it and no egr alarm for well over 100 miles. When all else fails, you may want to try this before spending big bucks.
AT LAST A FIX FOR MY CHEVY 4.3L VORTEX ENGINE, POSSIBLE FIX FOR YOURS! Hi, I have a 2000 blazer with the same problem as you and thousands of other people out there. NO one could figure out my problem. I purchased my blazer used last year with 113,000 miles on it. It ran great over the winter and this spring it started misfiring on cyl. 4 just like yours. I changed everything in the ign. system just because of the age, hoping it would solve the problem. It did not. NO big deal, plugs, plug wires, rotor, Inlet air temp. sensor, distributor cap, coil, & alternator. They needed to be replaced anyway, but what a bummer I still had a misfire on cyl. 4. To make matters worse, I would only get the code P0304 (misfire cyl. 4) only a few times in months of driving. No other codes came up. It would be worse on wet or low air pressure days. On dry days, or higher air pressure days, the problem would be almost nun-existent. After four or five miles of driving first thing in the morning, the misfire would go away and the engine would run great for the rest of the day even if I let it set for ten hours while at work. It only gave me a problem first thing in the morning. I would leave my house going up a hill for about a mile. The misfire would only show up around 2000 RPM when the engine would try to shift, then the misfire, and the trans. would jump from first to second in and out until I would let off of the gas and let it shift and then give it more gas. kind of like driving a standard even though this is a automatic transmission. I asked everyone that new anything about automobiles if they had any clue of what the problem might be. I got the same old probable cause problems that I have already tried. I new a good scanner would help a lot but I do not own one and so many other people do not own one, so I thought I would try to find the answer with good old common sense and testing. Four weeks or so I read and watched every video and training article that was related to my problem, and what I learned was amazing! I found out there are thousands of people out there with the same exact problem I was having with my engine and nothing seemed to work. Knowing that, I began to realize it was not a simple, obvious problem that was addressed often. To find this problem I knew I had to understand how all the parts worked and how to test them. I learned how to test the sensors with a meter, so I tested every sensor on the truck I could using a vac. pump, volt/ohm meter and everything tested GOOD. I tested the MAP sensor, Crank Case sensor, Throttle Positioning sensor, MAF sensor, Air Temp. sensor, Cam positioning sensor, EGR valve checking for 5 volt reference, correct signal voltage, and good ground. I noticed the problem was worse on wet days even if it did not rain and the engine was dry. I figured it must be a pressure thing because the problem was worse with wet days which equals lower air pressure. Now with that in mind, I looked for a control that worked on air pressure and on my engine it is the MAP sensor. I unplugged the MAP sensor and wow, it ran great with no problem at all. Now I have already tested the MAP sensor and everything tested great. I started looking into how the MAP sensor works with my system and found it monitors the EGR valve, and sends results to the computer to help in adjusting the timing under load at certain engine conditions. I plugged back in the MAP sensor and the problem came back. Knowing it monitors the EGR valve I decided to unplug the EGR valve and give it a go. Behold, the truck runs great with no problems. Of course it is running very rich and this is not a fix but a clue to the problem. I should mention that the 2000 GM 4.3L Vortec engine uses a lineal EGR valve. This valve has only one solenoid and uses no vacuum line connected to it. The EGR valve has a throttle positioning sensor (potentiometer) built into the EGR to tell the computer what percentage the valve is open or closed. It is a five wire plug. One wire 12VDC, one wire 12V ground both used to operate the EGR pintle movement. One wire 5VDC reference, one wire signal wire(voltage back to computer), and last is a ground wire. I removed the EGR valve again to double check it. The original test I preformed on the EGR included a good cleaning of any carbon build up, cleaning and checking the pintle and seats for any build up, a 12 volt power on and off confirming pintle smooth movement, and a ohms reading on all pins confirming ohms drop on the pintal positioning sensor. Something bothered me though, I noticed when preforming the pintal positioning sensor test. About 1/8" of an inch of the pintal being pushed in, the ohms jumped to a reading 1K ohms lower than it should be for about 1/2 a second and then return to the correct value. Every time I pushed the pintal in It would do it. kind of a hiccup of sorts, other than that, the EGR tested perfect. Pushing the pintal in, the ohms started at 4.9K closed valve and drops to .57k open valve. Valve closed= 4.9k Pushing pintal in very slowly = 4.9k-3.8k smooth fall. Continuing pintal inward from 3.8k it would drop instantly to 2.7k for 1/2 second and return to 3.4k and fall at a smooth rate as the pintal continued to be pushed in.. Now if this was on a good scan tool it would show up as a quick voltage drop. Still easy to miss. Anyway, I changed the EGR and problem solved. Truck runs like new. I know you may have changed your EGR valve, but even new parts are bad off the shelf. It would test good, you have to move the pintal in and out very very slow and watch for the ohms to change in a smooth up and down. If it jumps around at all, there is a problem with the pintal positioning sensor and the EGR needs to be replaced. I Got no codes for bad EGR The only code I got was P0304 Misfire Cyl. 4 Sorry so long, hope it can help TayloredSteam
have 1999 astro van 4.3 and hesitates under load up hills after shifts int o over drive, then when i let up on the gas it would run good just about everything new except for egr valve? Rich
That’s awesome! Had to copy all of it going back and forth by memory so I can test EGR. Wish I could copy and paste on RUclips. I’ve got P0300 and a headache lol Thank you!
One thing I've learned from cutting metal is to always wear gloves. Another is to try and cut the metal without backing off on the scissors or snips. This prevents the "fishhooks" or "murders" on the metal. This is from someone who's been "murdered" a lot by these things. As always, a lot of good advice. My sisters lives in the Boston area. Beautiful city and great people.
Just wondering; for testing purposes would not taking the wire off the EGR, pulling off the hose and then blocking the metal vacuum tube that sticks out of it not have the same effect as blocking the EGR off with the cut can?
You have to block it off this way because pulling the wire off will not stop the exhaust from reaching the valve in the EGR which is what you want to test to see if it is leaking.
My VW engine kept stalling when I released the gas pedal especially in heavy traffic, so all I did was remove the EGR valve electrical connector and the stalling stopped! I guess I disabled the valve by doing that?
@jcqln2 I think if you can not find a leak it is being burned off.A lot of cars can burn the oil with it not showing in the exhaust and on the spark plugs.
@piratesbelay ive got a 97 myself and its definitely a one man job. if you remove the air intake tube at the throttle body and move it aside, (and even take out the battery if need be) you will have more than enough room to reach around the master cylinder to get to it, though i would suggest jacking that front corner of the car to allow access to the under side if you need to unclip the fuel line from the bottom of the filter, they can be quite tricky sometimes.
It was actually the Gas pedal itself. When the car is running and its hot inside the vehicle the sensor starts malfunctioning. I already solved the problem. Bought a new pedal and it's been good since :) Thanks though.
In the UK we dont require the EGR valva so I capped my valve with a coke can (First mistake) Cans are good and quick for testing (like this in this video) but use something more substantial to cap on a long term basis.
@guayacan07 actually, if it never opens, your not really going to know one way or the other. The one on my truck is electronic controlled by a motor on top of it. The computer takes readings from the MAP and TPS and calculates when it should open. Your right, if it is vacuumed control, it would be simply easier to use a vacuum gun to see if it operates
i have negitive fuel trim i forgot what the numbers where i cleaned the maf no luck the only thing i can thank of is bad pcm (no codes) that indacate the pcm is bad or excessive vacume in the intake manifold overideing the pantal spring causeing p1406 i test pcm connections and all seemed good i have not checked with dealer level scan tool
Rich, I did exactly what you said and it worked. So I bought a new EGR valve and put it on, however when I put it on it started doing the same thing that it was doing before. any ideas of what the issue could be? Could my Intake Exhaust or Exhaust Manifold be clogged with carbon, that needs to be cleaned. Please help if you can I am at my wits end with this issue. I have changed the coils, plugs, wires, fuel filter and injectors.
Thanks. It's really amazing how many people don't get this test..you know I learned how to make temp gaskets like this in grade 9 high school with a small ball peen hammer.
Je pose la question on ne sait jamais , sa ne pose pas de problème par apport aux pot d'échappement catalytique ? sinon bien expliquée la video et clair merci bien
@MrT1me If you left the aluminium soda can piece in, it would eventually melt (aluminium has a low melting point compared to other metals) and your car would run the same, if not worse (because the aluminium is now inside of your engine). So don't drive too long using this method!
Can I extract the EEGR solenoid, disconnect the harness and use a power probe to give the lower voltage solenoid terminal, component-side ground and higher voltage component terminal +12v? Should that open/ close the valve and hopefully not be too much current, or is that a bad idea?
I have a question for you how long can you ride around with that piece of aluminum underneath your EGR valve before you get a new one. Like is it bad for your car riding around like that for like a week until you get a new one? Thank you
I've had great success cleaning mine. Just use carb cleaner and exercise the plunger as you're cleaning it. This assumes you're getting a "slow EGR" code.
i have a question. I own a 2005 Cobalt Lt, 2.2 EcoTec Engine, Automatic Transmission. The problem is the following. My car turns on fine and sounds fine, but when i accelerate and it starts getting close to 2000rpm my engine slows down. The more i try to accelerate the more my car slows down. Also, when i take my foot off the gas the rpm jolts up to 2000-3000rpm and when i press it it goes back down. I can't even get the car past 25mph. Would the EGR have something to do with that?
be sure to put this valve the same way you took it off otherwise you can install it backwords and get a p1406 pantal posistion sensor circuit code and allow excess egr gas to go into the engine uncontrolably and cause a vacuum leak the vacuum will actually lift the valve open a little bit theres a vacuum side and a exzust side all the wireing to pcm will be fine as far as testing but you still have that problem unless it not installed backwords
if someone knows enough to try checking or cleaning an egr valve, chances are they already know what an EGR valve does. These videos are made with the assumption that you probably have an idea of what you're doing but this is the way he finds to be easiest.
Once again, excellent video. Do you think of these things at random? get asked questions and then make the vids to show what to do? or are you just using these to help the rest of us while documenting the repairs you are making on your own car? :)
Thx, my $300 '97 Saturn sl2 will soon be my $800 Saturn sl2...But well worth it. The engine's in great shape, the clutch and tranny seem fine. Fuel Filter's my nxt tackle, it's in a precarious spot (Firewall/Driver side,) do you know? is that a one man job? thx again, frank..
It ‘protects’ against carbon supposedly from clogging but all it does is slow build up and removed the valve and bypassing it by using a block off plate with add power to the engine and may even allow it to run better than ever when it was stock. Which I think is the reason why people take these dumbly engineered devices off for performance.
Se ol 98 saturn sl1 (single) i heard someone said those ground is for the control module and sometimes needs to be cleaned but not sure ifthis the case. How weever yesterday i cleaned the throttle, iac/passage, egr valve, i wiped off the air sensor in the intake tube, and loosin the plugs then retightn cause i think they were too tight. runnin right as of now but well c what happens. i think cheap gas is one of the poblems too.
hey budy i have a problem with the egr valve in a grand am 1996, can i go with that gasket until that i replace the egr valve, and how many time can i have the car with that gasket? thanks a lot for the video
Working on my $300 saturn. Got to codes today at autozone... 1. CPS crank position sensor $14.99, bought this.. 2. EGR valve..$95 bucks !!! seems excessive.. My question, can I go to the junkyard and be certain, or near certain it's a good valve, is there anyway to look know its good, other or is it better to kick out the bucks for the $100 EGR Valve? thx..Frank
What about the holes in the middle part of the EGR? Why did you keep the gasket with no holes. I understand why you cut off the sides but I thought the middle part was some type of hole there. At least it looks like it
hey, richpin, another question. I'm an automotive geek but I cannot get to conclusion with an EGR. I understand its behaviour and function, but ... So, blinding the EGR means no gas is recirculated back and the engine gets everything fresh and clean. So what's the EGR's state now? Is the faulty EGR stuck open because of the contaminants that have built up and therefore the valve cannot close properly? thanks!
hello hope you will doing well. richpin i have honda civic 2004, i have EGR in it but there is no wiring for that, could please share a video for that as will that how to do the wiring for the EGR in honda civic 2004
I have a 1996 sl2 with 90000 miles on it. I recently have had a lot of hesitation issues when accelerating. I have followed the instructions on cleaning the egr valve. I also tried cleaning throttle body by taking off iacv and throttle position sensors. last test I tried was using carb choke cleaner to test the intake manifold, no change in rpms. I am stumped on this one and if you have any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it. thanks
I just actually replaced the etc sensor the old one looked fine but it didn't seem to make a difference. The connector looked fine as well. I also replaced spark plugs from ac delco copper to autolite copper. Spark plug wires are new. Cleaned pcv and replaced the vacuum hose from crank case to intake.
Was showing an 0404 error code on my 96 Saturn SL I replaced the EGR value with an Airtex/Wells valve from rockauto.com. Used the Airtex EGR valve for about two weeks but was suffering from really lousy gas mileage. Yesterday, I replaced the Airtex EGR valve with a Standard Motor EGV544 - also from rockauto. With both the Standard and the Airtex valves came gaskets are much thicker than the Felpro EGR gasket. With the Standard EGV544 + Felpro gasket + new Standard PCV valve -- drove 45+ miles to and from work and the gas gauge barely moved from full. thanks richpin
Went w Cleaning the old EGR...It's was Carbon Packed, after 15 min. of cleaning, and following the video step-by-step, the Engine Light went off, and it ran great !! The pindle was caked, it was most likely sticking..thx Frank
What code did you get? Did your car stall ? And refuse to start?
@@widowmaker4097did you find out what was wrong with yours..?
@@idecidenotyou no
To all who say it would fly in a shop: I Took my car to a dealership today, they told me they would have to "start" by replacing the EGR valve and cleaning the manifold, because it was the "only way" to tell and it would be $584, and they hoped that would fix it, but if not, they'd have to keep digging. I would much rather my mechanic try this with a 50¢ can of coke first. Needless to say, I politely refused, paid them the $70 for their diagnostic, and stopped at advance auto for a egr valve, gasket, & carb cleaner. I already have a can here. Thanks but no thanks. I'll stick with our youtube mechanic richpin! Thanks again for another great video!
This is from 4 years ago but I'm just wondering ,did they diagnose it right? If so why would refuse to pay ?
@@bradybelton6315 ye exactly, poor garage guy's get screwed by the public as well, it cut's both way's, NOT ALL mechanics are dishonest,trying to earn an honest living🤥
Hi Rich, thanks for another great video which really helped me out yesterday on my 1996 Saturn SW1 with over 264,000 miles. Your pop can method worked great in troubleshooting my problem. My problem was that my car was lurching while driving at speeds of around 45 mph. Blocking the exhaust from getting back into the intake using your pop can plate trick solved the lurching so I went and replaced my EGR valve and my car is once again running great (I'm back on my way to 300,000 miles and beyond).
Well done. I like the way you suggested checking it - better than seeing if you can gently push in the 'screw" thing on the valve opening (got that from the forums).
We have taken the laptop into the garage to do stuff and watch your videos as a guide. Thanks!
Am I the only one who hears everybody loves Raymond with this guy
Remember the aluminum can block off gasket will only work for a very short time before the hot exhaust gasses burn through it but enough time to check if the EGR was the problem.
Disclaimer ☝️
Use Red pop cans Tango as there steel .👍
I've never seen anything like this in my life man. That's awesome. Thanks for the tip
Oh ok thats an ingenious way of testing a faulty EGR valve. Cool thanks for your explanation. This clarifies the reason of the temp gasket.
Thanks mate. I'm doing this tomorrow on my lacetti. Same EGR valve as you show here . There only £20 new on eBay but I've got pop in the fridge so will try that first 👍
What this test does is to see if removing the valve temporary from the circuit will improve the running of the engine which would point to a faulty EGR.
So, did it improve the performance?
And did you get a faulty egr?
Thanks for the video 🙂
Well??????
very helpful thanks a bunch. had a po300-po306 each cylinder misfiring and po300 being random misfire on all cylinders. did your trick and the difference is night and day. will clean it tomorrow and see if it works, but if not I still saved a bunch of money on diagnostics and the egr is only 40.00 dollars. keep up the good work. thanks, Barfallenmule.
stupid idiot - NOT po306 - P0306
Nazi Grammar "not". You had caps on, ideot.
+Nazi Grammar - Chill Out :/// Some People use " O " as in " 0 ", because it might be easier for them or even an honest mistake :((((. Maybe you should try to teach them, rather than calling them names :(((. You can call People NAMES when they deserve it, but not in this case. :////
Best instructional video I have seen in a long time, THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS!
I've cleaned this valve 3 times in 2 years removing lots of carbon soot. Kerosene worked nicely. My s-series is an oil burner.
I eventually replaced my egr valve since cleaning the apparent good valve didn’t fix the alarm. Spent several labor dollars to no avail. Finally the mechanic said my computer needed replacing. Long story short, I disconnected the positive battery lead on my battery for about one hour, then re-connected it and no egr alarm for well over 100 miles. When all else fails, you may want to try this before spending big bucks.
Thank you so much.
AT LAST A FIX FOR MY CHEVY 4.3L VORTEX ENGINE, POSSIBLE FIX FOR YOURS!
Hi,
I have a 2000 blazer with the same problem as you and thousands of other people out there.
NO one could figure out my problem. I purchased my blazer used last year with 113,000 miles on it.
It ran great over the winter and this spring it started misfiring on cyl. 4 just like yours.
I changed everything in the ign. system just because of the age, hoping it would solve the problem. It did not.
NO big deal, plugs, plug wires, rotor, Inlet air temp. sensor, distributor cap, coil, & alternator. They needed to be replaced anyway, but what a bummer I still had a misfire on cyl. 4.
To make matters worse, I would only get the code P0304 (misfire cyl. 4) only a few times in months of driving.
No other codes came up. It would be worse on wet or low air pressure days. On dry days, or higher air pressure days, the problem would be almost nun-existent. After four or five miles of driving first thing in the morning, the misfire would go away and the engine would run great for the rest of the day even if I let it set for ten hours while at work. It only gave me a problem first thing in the morning. I would leave my house going up a hill for about a mile. The misfire would only show up around 2000 RPM when the engine would try to shift, then the misfire, and the trans. would jump from first to second in and out until I would let off of the gas and let it shift and then give it more gas. kind of like driving a standard even though this is a automatic transmission.
I asked everyone that new anything about automobiles if they had any clue of what the problem might be.
I got the same old probable cause problems that I have already tried.
I new a good scanner would help a lot but I do not own one and so many other people do not own one, so I thought I would try to find the answer with good old common sense and testing.
Four weeks or so I read and watched every video and training article that was related to my problem, and what I learned was amazing!
I found out there are thousands of people out there with the same exact problem I was having with my engine and nothing seemed to work. Knowing that, I began to realize it was not a simple, obvious problem that was addressed often.
To find this problem I knew I had to understand how all the parts worked and how to test them.
I learned how to test the sensors with a meter, so I tested every sensor on the truck I could using a vac. pump, volt/ohm meter and everything tested GOOD.
I tested the MAP sensor, Crank Case sensor, Throttle Positioning sensor, MAF sensor, Air Temp. sensor, Cam positioning sensor, EGR valve checking for 5 volt reference, correct signal voltage, and good ground.
I noticed the problem was worse on wet days even if it did not rain and the engine was dry.
I figured it must be a pressure thing because the problem was worse with wet days which equals lower air pressure.
Now with that in mind, I looked for a control that worked on air pressure and on my engine it is the MAP sensor.
I unplugged the MAP sensor and wow, it ran great with no problem at all.
Now I have already tested the MAP sensor and everything tested great. I started looking into how the MAP sensor works with my system and found it monitors the EGR valve, and sends results to the computer to help in adjusting the timing under load at certain engine conditions. I plugged back in the MAP sensor and the problem came back.
Knowing it monitors the EGR valve I decided to unplug the EGR valve and give it a go.
Behold, the truck runs great with no problems.
Of course it is running very rich and this is not a fix but a clue to the problem.
I should mention that the 2000 GM 4.3L Vortec engine uses a lineal EGR valve.
This valve has only one solenoid and uses no vacuum line connected to it.
The EGR valve has a throttle positioning sensor (potentiometer) built into the EGR to tell the computer what percentage the valve is open or closed. It is a five wire plug. One wire 12VDC, one wire 12V ground both used to operate the EGR pintle movement. One wire 5VDC reference, one wire signal wire(voltage back to computer), and last is a ground wire.
I removed the EGR valve again to double check it.
The original test I preformed on the EGR included a good cleaning of any carbon build up, cleaning and checking the pintle and seats for any build up, a 12 volt power on and off confirming pintle smooth movement, and a ohms reading on all pins confirming ohms drop on the pintal positioning sensor.
Something bothered me though, I noticed when preforming the pintal positioning sensor test.
About 1/8" of an inch of the pintal being pushed in, the ohms jumped to a reading 1K ohms lower than it should be for about 1/2 a second and then return to the correct value.
Every time I pushed the pintal in It would do it. kind of a hiccup of sorts, other than that, the EGR tested perfect.
Pushing the pintal in, the ohms started at 4.9K closed valve and drops to .57k open valve.
Valve closed= 4.9k
Pushing pintal in very slowly = 4.9k-3.8k smooth fall.
Continuing pintal inward from 3.8k it would drop instantly to 2.7k for 1/2 second and return to 3.4k and fall at a smooth rate as the pintal continued to be pushed in..
Now if this was on a good scan tool it would show up as a quick voltage drop. Still easy to miss.
Anyway, I changed the EGR and problem solved.
Truck runs like new.
I know you may have changed your EGR valve, but even new parts are bad off the shelf. It would test good, you have to move the pintal in and out very very slow and watch for the ohms to change in a smooth up and down. If it jumps around at all, there is a problem with the pintal positioning sensor and the EGR needs to be replaced.
I Got no codes for bad EGR
The only code I got was P0304 Misfire Cyl. 4
Sorry so long, hope it can help
TayloredSteam
have 1999 astro van 4.3 and hesitates under load up hills after shifts int o over drive, then when i let up on the gas it would run good just about everything new except for egr valve? Rich
Thanks Scott Taylor! Best write-up. Better than the video!
That’s awesome! Had to copy all of it going back and forth by memory so I can test EGR. Wish I could copy and paste on RUclips.
I’ve got P0300 and a headache lol
Thank you!
@@jpinkston4058 lol really was
WOW,YOU SIR JUST FIXED MY PROBLEM ON MY 87 4.3 LITER CHEVY S10.THANK YOU.👍
One thing I've learned from cutting metal is to always wear gloves. Another is to try and cut the metal without backing off on the scissors or snips. This prevents the "fishhooks" or "murders" on the metal. This is from someone who's been "murdered" a lot by these things.
As always, a lot of good advice. My sisters lives in the Boston area. Beautiful city and great people.
guys like you are GOD sent! I really loved the can gasket method,DAMN SICK thank you!
@topgrain No because you are not taking the problem out of the loop which is the valve seat area of the valve which can leek exhaust.
@TEQU1LLO Egr code can be the EGR itself or the passageways to the unit.Misfires are normally spark plug and ignition wires.
Just wondering; for testing purposes would not taking the wire off the EGR, pulling off the hose and then blocking the metal vacuum tube that sticks out of it not have the same effect as blocking the EGR off with the cut can?
You have to block it off this way because pulling the wire off will not stop the exhaust from reaching the valve in the EGR which is what you want to test to see if it is leaking.
Yes you can with varying degrees of success .Use a small scraper and stiff brush and choke cleaner.
@Hail2TheChimp1st The EGR lowers combustion temps to lower the output of Nitrogen oxide only.
Yes that is correct the idea is to isolate the valve to see if it is the problem.
Yes i have seen them.They prevent chunks of carbon jamming up the egr valve.
My VW engine kept stalling when I released the gas pedal especially in heavy traffic, so all I did was remove the EGR valve electrical connector and the stalling stopped! I guess I disabled the valve by doing that?
@jcqln2 I think if you can not find a leak it is being burned off.A lot of cars can burn the oil with it not showing in the exhaust and on the spark plugs.
@piratesbelay ive got a 97 myself and its definitely a one man job. if you remove the air intake tube at the throttle body and move it aside, (and even take out the battery if need be) you will have more than enough room to reach around the master cylinder to get to it, though i would suggest jacking that front corner of the car to allow access to the under side if you need to unclip the fuel line from the bottom of the filter, they can be quite tricky sometimes.
Thank you Richpin you have helped me a lot of time and saved me a ton of money which I couldn't afford on my Saturn. Thanks!!!
The idea is to isolate the egr from the engine to see if the engine runs better.
@manudelmarche I must differ with you because this block off plate will only last a short time and is crucial in diagnosing a bad EGR
@ThebigHurtt Yes run the car for a few seconds without the egr to blow loose carbon out.It would not hurt to use a little cleaner.
It was actually the Gas pedal itself. When the car is running and its hot inside the vehicle the sensor starts malfunctioning. I already solved the problem. Bought a new pedal and it's been good since :) Thanks though.
depends on the emissions setup as well. Federal or California emissions.
Sometimes the pintle of the valve does not seat because of carbon that is why we use a block off plate for testing.
Yes the can is only for testing as the hot exhaust will burn through in a short time.
I fixed my code for DPFE for a few dollars. Got a used one at wrecking yard. Got a spare used one too. Original one went 17 years !
@nli2work seems like you still have a egr problem sometimes the wires right at the egr can get broken or corroded.
A good video! The EGR on my daughter's car was shot, like you I taped it as I replaced it. Take a look.
Thank you, i thit this job in my car, because you load this video and the knock sensor too. Thank you again.
In the UK we dont require the EGR valva so I capped my valve with a coke can (First mistake) Cans are good and quick for testing (like this in this video) but use something more substantial to cap on a long term basis.
Whats a more permanent block i could use?
@@widowmaker4097 find a metal worker that can cut a steel disc to fit and clamp it in tight.
thank you!!! position test cant tell a leak in the valve,this test can ,thank you again.
@vbBegin1957 The soda can gasket isolates the egr from the engine to see if the engine runs better if so then the egr is faulty.
@guayacan07 actually, if it never opens, your not really going to know one way or the other. The one on my truck is electronic controlled by a motor on top of it. The computer takes readings from the MAP and TPS and calculates when it should open. Your right, if it is vacuumed control, it would be simply easier to use a vacuum gun to see if it operates
i have negitive fuel trim i forgot what the numbers where i cleaned the maf no luck the only thing i can thank of is bad pcm (no codes) that indacate the pcm is bad or excessive vacume in the intake manifold overideing the pantal spring causeing p1406 i test pcm connections and all seemed good i have not checked with dealer level scan tool
OMG RAY ROMANO INSTRUCTIONAL VIDEO!
Hahahaha!!
Double Hahahaha!!
Hey Rich! You’re smart!
You want to see if exhaust is flowing pass the valve.
It could be a possible restriction in the exhaust system.
@bavow What it does is block exhaust from getting to the egr valve to see if it is leaking exhaust gas around the pintle part of the egr valve.
It should as you are only taking the egr out the loop to see if it is faulty.
@FANtomCore The aluminum can gasket can only be used for 5-10 minutes of testing .
Rich, I did exactly what you said and it worked. So I bought a new EGR valve and put it on, however when I put it on it started doing the same thing that it was doing before. any ideas of what the issue could be? Could my Intake Exhaust or Exhaust Manifold be clogged with carbon, that needs to be cleaned. Please help if you can I am at my wits end with this issue. I have changed the coils, plugs, wires, fuel filter and injectors.
Did it run better with the test block off plate.What code are you getting.
What code did you get can you please tell me? And you car would stall and not start?
Thanks. It's really amazing how many people don't get this test..you know I learned how to make temp gaskets like this in grade 9 high school with a small ball peen hammer.
Great training video! I like the metal gasket made out of a soda can. Real field fab work!! I admire your skill level...
And there I was worried that the gaskets for EGR are something hi tech and expensive :D
Thank you very much for tihs idea !!!
Je pose la question on ne sait jamais , sa ne pose pas de problème par apport aux pot d'échappement catalytique ?
sinon bien expliquée la video et clair
merci bien
@MrT1me If you left the aluminium soda can piece in, it would eventually melt (aluminium has a low melting point compared to other metals) and your car would run the same, if not worse (because the aluminium is now inside of your engine).
So don't drive too long using this method!
Good test idea brother . I'm going to do this to my Chevy . Thanks for all your videos .
Can I extract the EEGR solenoid, disconnect the harness and use a power probe to give the lower voltage solenoid terminal, component-side ground and higher voltage component terminal +12v? Should that open/ close the valve and hopefully not be too much current, or is that a bad idea?
Did you get a po405 code?
I have a question for you how long can you ride around with that piece of aluminum underneath your EGR valve before you get a new one. Like is it bad for your car riding around like that for like a week until you get a new one? Thank you
@Cooki3Dough07 it is almost double $65.new so i guess it is off to the wrecking yard.
The passages are more than likely plugged up and not necessarily a faulty EGR
I've had great success cleaning mine. Just use carb cleaner and exercise the plunger as you're cleaning it. This assumes you're getting a "slow EGR" code.
@piratesbelay When it comes to a used egr valve it is hard to look at it and tell if is good.
i have a question. I own a 2005 Cobalt Lt, 2.2 EcoTec Engine, Automatic Transmission. The problem is the following. My car turns on fine and sounds fine, but when i accelerate and it starts getting close to 2000rpm my engine slows down. The more i try to accelerate the more my car slows down. Also, when i take my foot off the gas the rpm jolts up to 2000-3000rpm and when i press it it goes back down. I can't even get the car past 25mph. Would the EGR have something to do with that?
Hello Brother, facing same problem as you mentioned. how did you solved this problem? Please reply
@@BENHARARVIND it was the sensor on the gas pedal. So try that or it might be your fuel pump.
@@CthulhuSauce thank you so much brother. I will check and update..
@ThebigHurtt I do not know the history of the autozone egrs.How is the car running.
@eifeldude1 EGR opens at Wide open throttle so you rev the engine up, disconnect the electronic or vacuum line and see if the engine changes
be sure to put this valve the same way you took it off otherwise you can install it backwords and get a p1406 pantal posistion sensor circuit code and allow excess egr gas to go into the engine uncontrolably and cause a vacuum leak the vacuum will actually lift the valve open a little bit theres a vacuum side and a exzust side all the wireing to pcm will be fine as far as testing but you still have that problem unless it not installed backwords
Did you evee check to see if it stopped the flow completely or is it still able to get hot and melt a hole
@toninhouk The check engine light will come on and the engine will pollute more than it should.
@theodogeo I would suspect your problem is the valve.When the tube gets blocked it turns on the check engine light.
This test with the block off plate should take about five minutes worth of driving to determine if the valve is bad.Then you will remove it.
if someone knows enough to try checking or cleaning an egr valve, chances are they already know what an EGR valve does. These videos are made with the assumption that you probably have an idea of what you're doing but this is the way he finds to be easiest.
thanks for the answer budy, you are the best, all the videos rocks, thanks a lot for the video
Once again, excellent video. Do you think of these things at random? get asked questions and then make the vids to show what to do? or are you just using these to help the rest of us while documenting the repairs you are making on your own car? :)
Thx, my $300 '97 Saturn sl2 will soon be my $800 Saturn sl2...But well worth it. The engine's in great shape, the clutch and tranny seem fine. Fuel Filter's my nxt tackle, it's in a precarious spot (Firewall/Driver side,) do you know? is that a one man job? thx again, frank..
Rich, have you seen the EGR valve gaskets with the built in screen? (called a CleanScreen gasket). What purpose does the screen serve?
It ‘protects’ against carbon supposedly from clogging but all it does is slow build up and removed the valve and bypassing it by using a block off plate with add power to the engine and may even allow it to run better than ever when it was stock. Which I think is the reason why people take these dumbly engineered devices off for performance.
You guys are amazing! Thank you for sharing!
That's so true thanks u so much
Se ol 98 saturn sl1 (single) i heard someone said those ground is for the control module and sometimes needs to be cleaned but not sure ifthis the case. How weever yesterday i cleaned the throttle, iac/passage, egr valve, i wiped off the air sensor in the intake tube, and loosin the plugs then retightn cause i think they were too tight. runnin right as of now but well c what happens. i think cheap gas is one of the poblems too.
Chevy was designed by god. /to work on it atleast
I had. 3 fords f150
2 dodge rams. 1500
1 silverado so far in love w working on it
@jmellef The only other part on the 92 that i know of is the egr vacuum control solenoid
hey budy i have a problem with the egr valve in a grand am 1996, can i go with that gasket until that i replace the egr valve, and how many time can i have the car with that gasket? thanks a lot for the video
nice way to check UP. great way to check up on it. Is that a general motors vehicle? I just did one in a saturn and it looks similar.
Working on my $300 saturn. Got to codes today at autozone...
1. CPS crank position sensor $14.99, bought this..
2. EGR valve..$95 bucks !!! seems excessive..
My question, can I go to the junkyard and be certain, or near certain it's a good valve, is there anyway to look know its good, other or is it better to kick out the bucks for the $100 EGR Valve? thx..Frank
I'm having the same problem with a 97 sonoma, I'm about to try this out.
@richpin06a : why would you go thru all that hassle to test an EGR? it's electronic , you just undo the plug and watch for changes in idle.
What about the holes in the middle part of the EGR? Why did you keep the gasket with no holes. I understand why you cut off the sides but I thought the middle part was some type of hole there. At least it looks like it
lol i love the part "take it for a ride and see what happens"
hey, richpin, another question. I'm an automotive geek but I cannot get to conclusion with an EGR. I understand its behaviour and function, but ... So, blinding the EGR means no gas is recirculated back and the engine gets everything fresh and clean. So what's the EGR's state now? Is the faulty EGR stuck open because of the contaminants that have built up and therefore the valve cannot close properly? thanks!
hello hope you will doing well. richpin i have honda civic 2004, i have EGR in it but there is no wiring for that, could please share a video for that as will that how to do the wiring for the EGR in honda civic 2004
Remember a deep well socket. A 3/8 also fits.
All because...... Everybody loves Raymond.
Did you check for a intake manifold vacuum leak 00-02s sohc had a misaligned gaskets for the factory.
I have not worked on a mpv but most EGRs are the same.
Most of the ideas for the videos were reached by what people seem to be trying to repair on the forums.
I have a 1996 sl2 with 90000 miles on it. I recently have had a lot of hesitation issues when accelerating. I have followed the instructions on cleaning the egr valve. I also tried cleaning throttle body by taking off iacv and throttle position sensors. last test I tried was using carb choke cleaner to test the intake manifold, no change in rpms. I am stumped on this one and if you have any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it. thanks
+Tim Wilke How is the coolant temp sensor and its connector.When was the last time the engine had a tune up.What is the gas millage like.
I just actually replaced the etc sensor the old one looked fine but it didn't seem to make a difference. The connector looked fine as well. I also replaced spark plugs from ac delco copper to autolite copper. Spark plug wires are new. Cleaned pcv and replaced the vacuum hose from crank case to intake.
Gas milage is about 310 miles per tank
Was showing an 0404 error code on my 96 Saturn SL I replaced the EGR value with an Airtex/Wells valve from rockauto.com. Used the Airtex EGR valve for about two weeks but was suffering from really lousy gas mileage. Yesterday, I replaced the Airtex EGR valve with a Standard Motor EGV544 - also from rockauto. With both the Standard and the Airtex valves came gaskets are much thicker than the Felpro EGR gasket. With the Standard EGV544 + Felpro gasket + new Standard PCV valve -- drove 45+ miles to and from work and the gas gauge barely moved from full. thanks richpin
Thank you for letting everyone know that not all valves are the same.
@piratesbelay I have only replaced the later ones 98-02 as of this time so i can not give you any first hand knowledge on the 91-97 ones.