This is an old video - but thank you very much for this one. I just got a Farmertec 372XP clone and the seller included two (2) of these o-rings - but your video was the "show me how" that I needed. Much appreciated.
This video is exactly what I needed.. because I was doing my crank bearing and saw that o-ring in the exploded view but my saw didn’t have it. Thank you for this video👍
They have always had the oring and it’s on the parts breakdown down the sleeve should not be to loose but I always used Moto seal just a bit just a habit all of the 100s of ones of done are fine some clones don’t have them and they should
I know I'm a day late and a dollar short coming into this video but the o-ring is located on the diagram. I have noticed that you have to look at sever different year diagrams to get what you need. One diagram for the year of my 372 didn't show the part I needed so I looked up a newer saw and there it was.
I have always thought that once you tighten the clutch up the bushing is sandwiched between the crankshaft bearing race and the clutch. Machined surfaces, once tight, they cannot leaky enough to matter
I just got into this very situation. I have rebuilt alot of 372 saws and never noticed this little silly o'ring either. They disappear over time and are consumed by the saw. It makes as much since as using plastic caged bearings that spin 14,000 rpm.
@@matthewolson8875 I have a 372XP saw on my counter now with a new problem I have not encountered. The clutch side crank seal does not fit tight enough in the housing. The old seal did not appear to have spun in the housing. For some reason though it must have spun just enough to change the ID diameter of the housing. Is there a remedy for that situation or an oversized seal that I don't know about? This saw doesn't have alot of run time. I rebuilt my first 372 3 years ago and it was the first Husqvarna timber saw that I ever ran. Its ironic that this same model has flaws that I have just recently discovered. I am a Stihl guy but I do like Husqvarna timber saws.
@@matthewolson8875 I was afraid you were going to say that. I saw you in another video and was wondering if you work at or own HL Supply? I have done very little business with them but I am set up better now to go that route. Thank you for your help.
@@johnmorris7960 There are products for this very this situation. You do not need to replace the case. Check out Loctite retaining compounds such as 648 general purpose for gaps up to 0.15mm. Or 620 specifically for seals, for high temps and slightly larger gaps at 0.25mm, or 660 for gaps up to 0.5mm.
Problem solved. Because the saw held pressure but not vacuum I thought the crankshaft seals were at fault but I finally traced the vacuum leak to the intake boot where it joins the cylinder. Tightened the metal clip and it now holds pressure and vacuum. Simple fix but it goes against all I've read about vac/pressure.
Hi all. I have a problem with a Husqy 365xtorq (same as the 372XP). It will hold pressure no problem at all but vacuum leaks off quickly. I've replaced both seals and the wee o ring but no change. Is there any way I can check to see where the vacuum is sucking in? Or any other common areas to check? Cheers all.
Hi there have you done seals on a 562xp 550xp or 346xp . I am trying to find out how to fit the pto side seal which is called a radial seal that seats in the bearing
Yeah that radial seal is installed at the factory. Supposedly it's possible to replace but personally I'd replace the bearing. I wouldn't trust myself with doing a good enough job on just the seal. Also... number one cause of bad seals is bad bearings. So....I'd replace the bearing.
@@matthewolson8875 thanks for the info. I done the brake cleaner test on both sides and clutch side only effects it slightly but the flywheel side the saw just dies instantly. I will try the flywheel side but I don't have the tools needed to split the case if needed I may get away with just the flywheel side. Fingers crossed
@@richardsneddon2976 the flywheel side might not be an integral seal. I dont remember. But again... bad seals are caused by bad bearings. Also. A short block is available from husky for that saw iirc. Its a few bux but well worth it to save the time and aggravation. Also.. you can split that case with heat. I have a vid on that
How did the saw run bc min will start on Choke anneev upnworm up off choke no throttle bogs under cash revs once dies what's the issue an how to fix got new carb kit cleaned the while saw havent got no tools for leak down test wont run frustrated now it will o ly run on choke iv made coke intake gaskets so no leak there
Sounds like its still not getting enough fuel. I've done tons of carb kits on these saws. . None give good results. Often best to get new oem carb and see how it runs.
Matthew, I have a 371XP that is blowing huge amounts of white smoke. I am guessing the I have a failed seal on either the fly wheel or clutch. I am using a spare saw until I can open this up. Do you have a video on replacing the seals? Thank for your great videos. Tom
should be in my 372 videos somewhere... but if its blowing white smoke then the case seal may be damaged, and bar oil could be leaking into the crankcase area... if you check my vid on how to do a pressure test, you can pressurize the crankcase and open the oil reservoir and look for bubbles .... a seal thats gone will make an air leak, and cause the saw to run erratically and lean, I don't think it'll cause the smoke...
PogoInTheWoods correct. ..the bushing sits on it....not really in it...though the bushing has a tiny internal bevel that likely grabs the ring. It's tiny and fragile
PogoInTheWoods btw....you drive the seal in on the flywheel side further than the taper. I make sure the seal rubber is on the flat of the crank...not on the taper. Another way to do it...especially on the 394 is to measure the seal thickness...about 5mm...and the measure the depth from the case lip to the inner race of the bearing before you put the seal in. So..if the distance from the lip to inner race is 10mm. ....then drive the seal in just shy of 5mm. :) hope that helps
Great video. Thanks. How important is that bushing? I’ve got plier marks on mine from where I had to grip it to take it off. Will it be ok sanded smooth. Or best to replace?
That O-ring is really fragile. Installed one at work today. O-ring slides down the crank then comes the bushing then you put on the clutch..the clutch comes down on the bushing=squished o-ring??
Yes I know I wonder if it doesn't just fall apart soon after? I pulled up a parts diagram and it is drawn there, even in the workshop manual so I guess they do install it new atleast in the x torq saws, however I've never seen one when tearing a saw apart for a rebuild,
Hi there, I've had a 365 X torq from brand new which has never had that o ring. The saw will hold pressure fine but not vacuum. I suspect it needs the o ring so I'll order one and fit it......fingers crossed. Thanks all.
Looks like the saw is designed to Self-Destruct; like so many of Husqvarna's Intake and Exhaust solutions. I always buy Chainsaws that someone else has burnt up through poorly implemented factory parts. Hindsight is a beautiful thing.
its the 350 intake that's the problem mainly....should have been a recall I think this o-ring in reality makes little difference, but who knows.... I'm gonna use them from now on:)
I have a 372 that Boggs at throttle then dies when u let off. Not fuel line or filter or carburetor not a plugged spark screen. What else could cause this ?
whats compression? boggy at throttle is usually a fuel delivery issue, or poor ignition overall. low compression? bad spark plug, bad line, bad coil, fyi these questions are best on the forum, opeforum.com or arboristsite :)
It started to idle high the other day then all of a sudden it's doing what I described the plug is good could be the coil but it seems to spark everytime I pull it not sure about the compression but I checked the fuel system it's good
It's a brand new oem walbro I put on a few months ago. I built the saw from a hutzle kit and it's ran good for the last 7 months but last week we were clearing for a pipeline and it was -3 °f all day and that's when it started.the the head bolts are tight but theres like gooey saw dust around the one bolt which is making me think air leak. Idk I'm really having trouble with it.it was my favorite saw too
It was a movie, your voice and cadence reminded me of his. It took me a bit to figure out why it was familiar. Good video, very informative. Gotta love RUclips and all the help it can provide.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
This is an old video - but thank you very much for this one. I just got a Farmertec 372XP clone and the seller included two (2) of these o-rings - but your video was the "show me how" that I needed. Much appreciated.
my 372 farmatech on the fist run had smoke from behind the clutch lol, it not a part listed on their site, so I got one from husky , thank you sir
This video is exactly what I needed.. because I was doing my crank bearing and saw that o-ring in the exploded view but my saw didn’t have it. Thank you for this video👍
They have always had the oring and it’s on the parts breakdown down the sleeve should not be to loose but I always used Moto seal just a bit just a habit all of the 100s of ones of done are fine some clones don’t have them and they should
Lotta solutions here for sure but I never saw this when I was doing breakdowns... it was just something I missed and had to do a vid about it.
Wow thanks been looking for information on this "seal" issue for my 365 Husky brilliant, one learns every day
If you look on the crankshaft break down diagram for the 372xp x-torq it shows this o-ring
Yup... just hadn't noticed it. Tx
Thanks for the info i am servicing a 372 x-torque
I know I'm a day late and a dollar short coming into this video but the o-ring is located on the diagram. I have noticed that you have to look at sever different year diagrams to get what you need. One diagram for the year of my 372 didn't show the part I needed so I looked up a newer saw and there it was.
Yeah... thanks for the comment!
I have always thought that once you tighten the clutch up the bushing is sandwiched between the crankshaft bearing race and the clutch. Machined surfaces, once tight, they cannot leaky enough to matter
Yup... the o ring is gravy sorta
A sthil 044 funciona dessa forma. Não tem Oring. Mas a husqvarna, no esquema tem.
I just got into this very situation. I have rebuilt alot of 372 saws and never noticed this little silly o'ring either. They disappear over time and are consumed by the saw. It makes as much since as using plastic caged bearings that spin 14,000 rpm.
Yes! agreed! Thanks for the comment
@@matthewolson8875 I have a 372XP saw on my counter now with a new problem I have not encountered. The clutch side crank seal does not fit tight enough in the housing. The old seal did not appear to have spun in the housing. For some reason though it must have spun just enough to change the ID diameter of the housing. Is there a remedy for that situation or an oversized seal that I don't know about? This saw doesn't have alot of run time. I rebuilt my first 372 3 years ago and it was the first Husqvarna timber saw that I ever ran. Its ironic that this same model has flaws that I have just recently discovered. I am a Stihl guy but I do like Husqvarna timber saws.
@@johnmorris7960 likely need a new case half :( I've had that happen and the best solution is just to get a new case half if that seal isn't perfect
@@matthewolson8875 I was afraid you were going to say that. I saw you in another video and was wondering if you work at or own HL Supply? I have done very little business with them but I am set up better now to go that route. Thank you for your help.
@@johnmorris7960 There are products for this very this situation. You do not need to replace the case. Check out Loctite retaining compounds such as 648 general purpose for gaps up to 0.15mm. Or 620 specifically for seals, for high temps and slightly larger gaps at 0.25mm, or 660 for gaps up to 0.5mm.
Thanks Mathew great video 🇦🇺👍🏻
Problem solved. Because the saw held pressure but not vacuum I thought the crankshaft seals were at fault but I finally traced the vacuum leak to the intake boot where it joins the cylinder. Tightened the metal clip and it now holds pressure and vacuum. Simple fix but it goes against all I've read about vac/pressure.
Rubber is funny like that. Nice job!
Hi all. I have a problem with a Husqy 365xtorq (same as the 372XP). It will hold pressure no problem at all but vacuum leaks off quickly. I've replaced both seals and the wee o ring but no change. Is there any way I can check to see where the vacuum is sucking in? Or any other common areas to check? Cheers all.
Hi there have you done seals on a 562xp 550xp or 346xp . I am trying to find out how to fit the pto side seal which is called a radial seal that seats in the bearing
Yeah that radial seal is installed at the factory. Supposedly it's possible to replace but personally I'd replace the bearing. I wouldn't trust myself with doing a good enough job on just the seal. Also... number one cause of bad seals is bad bearings. So....I'd replace the bearing.
@@matthewolson8875 thanks for the info. I done the brake cleaner test on both sides and clutch side only effects it slightly but the flywheel side the saw just dies instantly. I will try the flywheel side but I don't have the tools needed to split the case if needed I may get away with just the flywheel side. Fingers crossed
@@richardsneddon2976 the flywheel side might not be an integral seal. I dont remember. But again... bad seals are caused by bad bearings. Also. A short block is available from husky for that saw iirc. Its a few bux but well worth it to save the time and aggravation. Also.. you can split that case with heat. I have a vid on that
@@matthewolson8875 I will need to check that out
How did the saw run bc min will start on Choke anneev upnworm up off choke no throttle bogs under cash revs once dies what's the issue an how to fix got new carb kit cleaned the while saw havent got no tools for leak down test wont run frustrated now it will o ly run on choke iv made coke intake gaskets so no leak there
Sounds like its still not getting enough fuel. I've done tons of carb kits on these saws. . None give good results. Often best to get new oem carb and see how it runs.
Good video bud
Tx
Matthew,
I have a 371XP that is blowing huge amounts of white smoke. I am guessing the I have a failed seal on either the fly wheel or clutch. I am using a spare saw until I can open this up.
Do you have a video on replacing the seals?
Thank for your great videos.
Tom
should be in my 372 videos somewhere... but if its blowing white smoke then the case seal may be damaged, and bar oil could be leaking into the crankcase area... if you check my vid on how to do a pressure test, you can pressurize the crankcase and open the oil reservoir and look for bubbles ....
a seal thats gone will make an air leak, and cause the saw to run erratically and lean, I don't think it'll cause the smoke...
this vid here will show you seals and bearings etc...
ruclips.net/video/vWA5zCzsvXg/видео.html
The 'O' ring goes between the bottom of the bushing and inner bearing race, not inside the bushing.
PogoInTheWoods correct. ..the bushing sits on it....not really in it...though the bushing has a tiny internal bevel that likely grabs the ring. It's tiny and fragile
PogoInTheWoods btw....you drive the seal in on the flywheel side further than the taper. I make sure the seal rubber is on the flat of the crank...not on the taper. Another way to do it...especially on the 394 is to measure the seal thickness...about 5mm...and the measure the depth from the case lip to the inner race of the bearing before you put the seal in. So..if the distance from the lip to inner race is 10mm. ....then drive the seal in just shy of 5mm. :) hope that helps
I appreciate the detail! Nice find
Thanks!
@@matthewolson8875 Friend, or +500 turnover from the maximum permissible damaged saw?
Great video. Thanks. How important is that bushing? I’ve got plier marks on mine from where I had to grip it to take it off. Will it be ok sanded smooth. Or best to replace?
It's a sealing surface....that bushing is quite important so yeah....best to do new
Matthew Olson thank you. Will do.
That O-ring is really fragile. Installed one at work today. O-ring slides down the crank then comes the bushing then you put on the clutch..the clutch comes down on the bushing=squished o-ring??
jugfhj yes....it is intended to be squished
Yes I know I wonder if it doesn't just fall apart soon after? I pulled up a parts diagram and it is drawn there, even in the workshop manual so I guess they do install it new atleast in the x torq saws, however I've never seen one when tearing a saw apart for a rebuild,
jugfhj neither had i...which is why I made this video lol
it takes a while for it to disintegrate.... btw.
Hi there, I've had a 365 X torq from brand new which has never had that o ring. The saw will hold pressure fine but not vacuum. I suspect it needs the o ring so I'll order one and fit it......fingers crossed. Thanks all.
I I I I I ....I just don't know how I could've missed this!
Lol that's something I'd say.
Yup...I was frustrated.
Looks like the saw is designed to Self-Destruct; like so many of Husqvarna's Intake and Exhaust solutions.
I always buy Chainsaws that someone else has burnt up through poorly implemented factory parts.
Hindsight is a beautiful thing.
its the 350 intake that's the problem mainly....should have been a recall I think this o-ring in reality makes little difference, but who knows.... I'm gonna use them from now on:)
I have a 372 that Boggs at throttle then dies when u let off. Not fuel line or filter or carburetor not a plugged spark screen. What else could cause this ?
whats compression? boggy at throttle is usually a fuel delivery issue, or poor ignition overall. low compression? bad spark plug, bad line, bad coil, fyi these questions are best on the forum, opeforum.com or arboristsite :)
It started to idle high the other day then all of a sudden it's doing what I described the plug is good could be the coil but it seems to spark everytime I pull it not sure about the compression but I checked the fuel system it's good
It is a hutzle coil
@@Trolldaddy5 are all bolts tight? head bolts, intake bolts, carb settings correct? try another carb?
It's a brand new oem walbro I put on a few months ago. I built the saw from a hutzle kit and it's ran good for the last 7 months but last week we were clearing for a pipeline and it was -3 °f all day and that's when it started.the the head bolts are tight but theres like gooey saw dust around the one bolt which is making me think air leak. Idk I'm really having trouble with it.it was my favorite saw too
What are the symptoms of a air leak ?
lots of different things, over rev at idle, over rev at full throttle
There's an o ring that seals it
Hence the video :)
@@matthewolson8875 I commented before that part sorry bud. Keep up the good content!
@@lakestatebullies7391 trying! Tx!
Thanks for the Video
welcome, and thanks for watching!
I put Lock tight .
Then how do you get it apart? There are all kinds of things that might work here but so far I think it's best to use factory o ring
Matthew Olson blue lock tight and a little heat they come right off .
@@Bigmike3406E I hear ya
Thank you sir. Sub’d.
Chad Harzbarger tx!!!!
stihl baby!!!
This guy sounds just like The Grizzly Man!!
BizEmee me? Ok...if ya say so! Got a link to said "grizzly man?"
It was a movie, your voice and cadence reminded me of his. It took me a bit to figure out why it was familiar. Good video, very informative. Gotta love RUclips and all the help it can provide.
BizEmee gotcha. Yeah. ...I love you tube for that reason. ...this is my way of helping the repository of information :)
who ever designed that crap was smoking some pretty good sheet
Ha....yeah....I agree