Husqvarna 455 rancher teardown and rebuild, bolt for bolt! part 1
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- Опубликовано: 19 янв 2016
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Disclaimer: ladies and gents, this is a CHAINSAW, working with, building and fiddling with these can KILL YOU, I am not and will not be responsible for improper technique or accidents even remotely relating to this video, please view for entertainment purposes only.
In this video, I am dismantling a 455 rancher. It likely was straight gassed. In part 2 I will rebuild the saw.
I can give a spoiler right here and say this saw runs fine, even after all of what I'm doing to/for it.
Any questions feel free to leave a comment.
the rebuild is here:
• Husqvarna 455 rancher ... 
Хобби
Sounds Like A "FIRST". Donny Boy 73 Knows What He Is Doing. "YOU DON'T"
Thanks for the comment! Very helpful!
@Tbone sorry...missed this until now. I have done at least a dozen of these...possibly 2 dozen. I don't remember. Truth told when I did this video I hadn't done one in a while because I don't work on them much anymore. Also ...I got frustrated because I lost hours worth of video because of the camera being out of focus. Had to purchase another parts saw just to finish the vid for you guys. I don't like unhelpful comments ...so please keep comments constructive.
________________ well you’re not very nice. I thought this was a decent video of basic tear down
@@joesmith482 thanks Joe
Your doing fine fuck that cowardly nameless person
This is a very useful video. I have a 455 Rancher and no locally certified Husky technician. Being the paranoid OCD I am, I figured that someone on RUclips might be able to help, and I was right. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
Happy to help!
I have a 455 Rancher. It is one of my favorite working saws. It is about five years old. Never had a lick of problems with it. It was made in Sweden. All I do is put gas and bar oil in it, crank it and cut with it. It is lighter than most of my saws, so it gets a lot of work.it is toting a 3/8, .050, 72 chain on a 20 inch bar. I have only replaced the fuel filter and chain on it. I junked that Husqvarna chain pretty quick and replaced it with an Oregon LGX chain. I put a big Stihl filter on it. Nothing complicated about any of it.
Excellent video, it helped me get my rancher up and running smooth again. It's gotta be 8+ years old too! Time to get ready for Idaho's winter, we strictly use firewood to heat my home. Using an Oregon skip chain makes it easy work. Thanks again, your kids and bird in the background added some life lol.
Rod K. Ariwite glad you liked it! Happy to help!
I’m in Idaho too, running only wood heat as well! What is this Oregon skip chain you’re talking about???
Very helpful video, I want to personally thank you for taking the time and all your effort in making this very informative video. The cost effective aspect you mention at the end of your videos is really secondary.. You have helped many of us who fix our own saws. In that respect, your video is priceless to many people watching and learning. It's the personal satisfaction of using our God given skills and sharing them with others! The icing on the cake is that you now have a nice usable chainsaw as well. Thank you very much for sharing your great videos.
Michael Gurgone thanks for the kind words....I do appreciate it.....fyi the rancher has been sold :)
Hey,I just completed my saw and it runs like a champ. Thanks Again
+Andrew Clark rockin!!! welcome!
Great video step by step .......it has help me to fix my 460 very similar to the 455,,,,
You are the MAN Mr. Olsen. Very nice of you to take your time to dissect the 455. I'm confident you saved me and others untold thousands since your post. Husqvarna should pay you a royalty check brother!
Thanks for the kind words... hopefully you are right and I have saved people a bundle :)
You are a talented guy! I never realized how complex a chainsaw is. I dont think I am going to attempt to rebuild my 455.
Even busted they fetch good money on ebay. Or part it out.. you can make fine money :)
@@matthewolson8875 Thanks. I didn't realize that. I may do just that. (My mechanic was telling me he is getting a lot of newer Husqvarnar break downs. He feels the newer models aren't what they used to be. Rebuilding is labor expensive which I understand watching your video.) I replaced my Rancher with a barely used, older 460 Rancher. I know the bar and chains are interchangeable of which I have several bars and chains.
my 460 rancher want crank my shoulder hurts from pulling the cord and this is what I get to look forward to. AWESOME video. I just hope the tune up kit works lol.
Thanks for sharing this. I’m just replacing the fuel line, but this lets me know it isn’t attached to a bunch of other lines that need to be replaced at the same time.
Welcome!
very well done.....no extra time spent talking......just info.......cheers.
thanks for the comment.... I desperately try for my vids to be full of useful / relevant info.. sometimes its too much and I ramble... that said, thanks again!
Matthew Olson no....your right on the money.......some explanation is good......a lot is awful. great editing by the way. subscribe to my channel if you like.
Many thanks for the video - it helped immensely to strip my saw to get to the carb which for some reason was blocked. A very useful video indeed!
glad I could help!
blocked is a common problem as the clunk filter falls off the fuel tube because they rot and it sucks up all the filth in the tank that the filter blocked
The box advice is very helpful and important. Thank you.
Thanks Very much! My muffler was falling apart, and YOU were the source that said 5mill allan for the screws. Thanks, again Matthew.
keith imel welcome! Glad I could help!
You did a great job with this video, Matthew, I learned a lot about this complex little saw. My neighbor dumped one into my hands because he ran it with straight gas and wanted me to take a look at it. I'm going to run a compression test on it before I do anything as I fear that there's internal damage to this one also. Thanks again, it's on to part two.
Pull the muffler off. If there is scoring u need a new top end. Thanks for the comments
Very helpful. The 455 Rancher has been the best saw I've used and I just needed help figuring out how to access the studs that hold the bar. I ended up figuring out why I'm leaking bar oil and I can refer to this for any future issues. Thanks for the time.
you are very welcome
Hi Joshua. May I ask why were you leaking bar oil?
Yes.. Why were you leaking???
I straight-gassed mine on accident-mix up with the various fuel tanks-and about cried. Damage was done before i knew it. This video will help me atone for my egregious error, thank you! 👍
Welcome!
Have a 455 I need to completely tear down......small engine mechanic just went over mine, and it still will not start or run if I can occasionally get it to start.......has been a lemon since purchase.......figure I will tear it down in the Winter.......thanks........getting ready to watch part 2
Thanks for the time in making the video. It help me repair my 455
Welcome
Very helpful. Thanks for posting.
I bought the Husqvarna 460 Rancher new a couple years ago. That first year I used it to cut firewood and then I bought a Alaskan Sawmill. In one day I cut several boards and it ran flawlessly. At the end of the day I shut it off and put it back in the barn. It never started again. I had always used good quality 2-cycle oil mixture and taken care of the my investment. But like I said, it would not start. I ended up buying a Stihl. Several months later I decided to check the compression on the Husqvarna. It was extremely low, about 60psi. I bought a new cylinder, piston, ring, seals and gasket. I will repair it soon however while looking at it, there was an excessive amount of wet oil on and around the flywheel, coil and the adjacent plate that covers those items. Unknown if its chain oil or from the gas tank. I suppose the chassis could be cracked since the oil tank is in the same area or I accidently spilled oil down into that area when filling the chain oil. We shall see...
Yeah...tear it down and do the proper diagnosis to figure our why it ate itself. 460 is definitely not built for milling though. Husky 395 at minimum for milling
@@matthewolson8875 cylinder was in good shape. Ring was stuck on the exhaust port side but the piston looked good. Since I already had a new cylinder, piston and ring, I replaced it all with new seals & gaskets. Kept the old just in case. It fired up with two pulls and runs like new again. Thanks!
I am blown away!!!!!! this video is awesome!
YAY! you're the first video I can remember that has the brains to use a power screwdriver! congratulations!
Uh....ok :) I like power tools for sure
exactly why spin screwdrivers when you can just hit the trigger
I couldn't have done it without you!!! I wish I could do something for you dave
No worries man....happy to help
Click on my hlsupply link the video description if u need parts...I get credit :)
I just removed and replaced my carburetor thanks to this video.
thank you very much.
Burt Hulbert no problem at all! glad I could help!
Matthew Olson thing is it's still got a lean/starvation problem. Replaced tank vent, gas filter and it starved off/stops. I removed carb and put it back on thinking the intake rubber surface was mishapened causing a leak but that didn't fix it.
Any ideas?
This question is best posed on the online forums ... arboristsite or opeforum.com
lots of different directions I could go with this, so best to post it ... and as much diagnostic information as you have...on an online forum. best of luck sir
I have a 455 rancher fantastic saw I love it
Perhaps just for starters you should have told us just for education purposes what the engine compression ideally should be.
Good 455 ranchers are around 140 to 150 psi
What size socket did you use to make the clutch removal tool? Thanks!
Thank You Matt very well done!!
Terry Leavelle thanks!!!
Hi there - great videos - saved me lots of time doing the rebuild so did not do things in wrong order or forget something and have to go back. Saw is now done and will run like a top except won't idle...as soon as you take choke off and pull throttle once it will die. Will run if you hold throttle a little. It was idling fine before it got the straight gas. It sat for only a month or two before the rebuild. Any likely suspects as to the cause of this? Thanks
likley getting choked for fuel at idle.... lots of reasons why
Thanks buddy ! A great help for sure
happy to help!
Matthew,
Thanks for these 455 Rancher videos. I was able to replace the bottom chain oil pickup hose and made sure it was sealed with Three Bond Case Sealant Liquid Gasket 1184. I'm still waiting for a new pinion gear and pump but have put it all back together except for the clutch cover.
Also, who makes the blue dial watch that you wear? I am tired of digital watches and like the old style analog watch face.
That watch is an old school SKAGEN
This will help when I repairing mine , thanks
Jim Rogers welcome!
I know what blew the saw and it wasn't the gas. The user was starting the saw and running it wide open cold and forcing the saw to work without warmups. The piston expands too quickly and usually scars the ring land near the exhaust end causing scouring and piston ring getting stuck. Someone may have rebuilt that saw and the owner/user did it again. Now you have it. Cheers!
Thanks awesome video learning a lot of great tips
Thanks....there are lots of bearing info on my channel. I sell crank install tools now but for you it's more cost effective to put the bearings on hot....or figure out some way to press them on
Great video. I've had my Rancher for about 6 years with good service - mostly personal use for firewood and cleanup. Recently I was cutting up a large oak - it was running fine then suddenly lost power. Starts up no problem, revs up but as soon as I start cutting it would bog down. I had bought a maintenance kit so changed out the air filter, fuel filter and spark plug. While I had the fuel filter off I push air into the fuel line with throttle open to blow out the carb. Checked compression it was about 150 psi. Filled with fresh gas, primer bulb pumped up well and stayed firm. Started up fine but same problem - bogs down immediately under a load. I guess the next step is rebuild the carburator? Am I missing something simple?
Make sure the spark screen is clear. But mostly sound like it not getting fuel.... so yeah ....carb would be where I would go. I haven't had much luck rebuilding these carbs. Often it easier to just get new oem carb.
Hey Matthew. Recently I was presented with a box of Husqvarna parts due to a straight gasoline run. Without your videos, I wouldn't have even tried the repair. I felt inspired to video a 4K, two-part series on my struggles in the description of which I give you credit. Hope you can watch it sometime and give your feedback.
Love it...link?
@@matthewolson8875 ruclips.net/video/jDhxqzUWK3o/видео.html Am uploading part 2 as we 'speak'. Will be available later this afternoon. Thanks. Dean
Awesome video. I have been having trouble out of my 455. I have to change the piston and cylinder. Can I replace it with the 49mm piston form the 460?
yes, but you have to figure out how/why the first cylinder died
Awesome! Thank you so much man.
welcome glad you enjoyed it
Thank you for a very helpful and informative video. I pick up a parts saw off e bay and repaired the one I have. Seems I am getting a lot of white smoke when I run it and the chain moves without hitting the throttle. As you can tell I am new to working on these, any help would be cool. One other saw cut off when I start to cut with it :-(
+Kuma San your question is quite vague. the chain moving at idle could bit an idle that is set too high, a low screw set too lean, or a busted clutch. a little bit of white smoke isn't a problem I don't think, if its smoking a lot then the bar oil may be leaking into the crankcase, and your other saw that cut out I cannot possibly help with...your description is to vague
Check your mix ratios.
Excellent job 👍👍👍
jo tub thanks!
What do you clean with in your cleaning tank?
I usually remove the muffler and stick a wooden wire brush handle into the exhaust port as a piston stop.
I can count on the cylinder to be bad on every one, so having a good bar and chain is very important 😊
Most likely it had straight gas 😢😢
I have that saw that fires at a high idle then dies in a second or two... Any ideas on what to check? I pulled the carb apart looks fine, very clean but idk. compression 130-140...
Troubleshoot is best for the forums .... sounds like fuel starvation to me though... somehow its not getting fuel.
great video, I appreciate it
+andrewski121 welcome! if you like my vids please support my channel by clicking on the hlsproparts link in the description. I'm trying to run my vids w/o ads, so I'm using hl supply as my sponsor instead.
anyway, enjoy! and feel free to ask any questions!
Thank you. Very helpful
At 10.15 ish, does the green wire have a spay termininal to connect to or does it just compress into the off switch. (on a 346xp) Thanks and really enjoy the vids.
yeah, that looks like a spade connector, and it goes into the switch in a special spot for it... this is likely a part that is best an oem part fyi
What is the cylinder bolt torque specs? Great video, thanks. I have a low compression 455 with a stuck piston ring. I will change out the piston and cylinder.
I don't have a spec on the head bolts....sorry. did you pull the muffler and check for scoring? What was the diagnosis for low compression?
Excellent timing. I am rebuilding one of these.
the second part of the video is uploading now glad you like it
Hello, excellent video. I have a 455 Rancher that bogs down a little at full throttle. I was attempting to adjust the high speed screw a little richer. I only turned it about an eighth of a turn out, and it hits the factory limit stop. Is there any way to get rid of this limiter some how. Also, could it be another problem, such as spark plug/fuel filter/etc. Any help, would be greatly appreciated. THank you.
thanks...
for your 455...check air filter and spark screen....check compression. bog is usually a fuel delivery issue. check fuel line and filter. clean carb....simple stuff....yes you can remove the limiter but on a 455....they run fine with limiters.
Do you put loctite on the cylinder too before reassembling
Yes....loctite 518 is anaerobic sealer and it's fine for metal and rubber joints
My primer bulb was damaged on the one I purchased at auction and I got a new one. When I went to install the long hose came completely out. I noticed that you left yours on the whole video lol. I was hoping I could see an easier fix, but it looks as if the carb wants to come out so I can fit it or replace it. arg.
That’s very helpful... I have that chainsaw and for some reason always leaks oil I not even used on the last 10 months but whenever I put it is oil already took it apart but didn’t se anything wrong well on my view... any tips to go further on it and find the problem buddy ???
Wow I had my muffler off my 455 rancher last night. I questioned where the gasket went .i could tell it went where you explained, but after watching a few videos, and looking at parts diagrams on line , it shows it up against the port ? But mine was between the muffler and heat shield. And the saw has never been apart. I could see the port marks on the aluminum, so i know the shield goes first. But not according to all the parts diagrams on line .whats your thoughts? Thank you for the Videos
I'm pretty sure the heat shield goes directly against the cylinder
Finally, a video that doesn't show me how to remove only the chain when the title says "Chain saw teardown"
ha! tx!!!
Great video on the tear down. I have a 455 and it's leaking gas when full or laying on the side I'm able to run the saw with a half tank of fuel. Watch your video to see how to get to the tank it looks like it's made in to that last piece. I don't want to do a tear down like that to fix it. Any idea? Thanks for the video
Tank vent?
Broken fuel line?
@@matthewolson8875 thanks for the quick reply I will give that a try.
@@matthewolson8875 it's that top hose on the primer bulb it was just sitting on top of the tank not pushed down in the hole. Thanks for the help
Great video Matthew.. my friend just gave me a 460 Rancher (wasn't used in awhile).. after I added gas and turned the saw upright, the fuel immediately started leaking out the bottom.. I suspect the gas tank is part of the chassis and its leaking through the seem.. wondering if there is a gasket between the two sides of the chassis, or if I just need a whole new chassis.. lmk if you have any ideas. thanks
Whole new chassis. This is not a pro saw....doesn't have a split able crankcase
@@matthewolson8875 Thanks.. the saw is like new, hardly used.. I may try to contact Husq about a warranty
@@larryzdanis5377 are you sure its leaking from the seam in the chassis?
@@matthewolson8875 Probably 75% sure.. I'm going to pull it apart to make sure no hoses are detached or leaking, etc. first, before buying a new crankcase.
Hi Matt, I wrecked the threat of the fuel tank on my almost new 455. Any advice?
Plastic threads? Sometime you can melt in plastic from string trimmer line and you can get the screw to grab....or new tank :(
Ten thumbs ups from me if that sort of thing were possible. Thanks for posting.
Happy to help!
This was very helpful
Great!
thank you for your time and super educational video!! Husqvarna must be proud of you, because they suck as customer care, Lowes, too!
husky probably doesn't care what I do lol
I have an option of picking up a saw that might have been run with straight gas, for cheap... should I do it or skip it? how much would a rebuild like this cost?
Love straight gassed saws.....know exactly what's wrong :) get it cheap. ..pull it apart and see what it needs. Price it out....then see if it's worth putting it back together. Gotta get it cheap or free.
What compression test tool do you recommend for this?
And what should it read?
At about 7:20 you address the oiler. On the 455 and many other Husqvarnas this assembly is a weak point and the cause of them "oiling themselves" all over the shelf after use. Where the pump assembly connects to the tube does not have enough pressure (probably supposed to be exerted by the steel cover pressing on it) to keep chain oil from seeping out around it. It is either an evil, genius plot to sell more bar oil or a poor design. The problem can be corrected with bike tube or some other suitable shimming material placed between the cover and hose to pump connection. Note, this does not correct the design flaw but does slow it down somewhat. Also note , I had heard Husqvarna was stepping up with a fix but when I joined their customer support forum and posted regarding the issue, I was mysteriously un-joined from their site. PS - GREAT JOB on this video.
Thanks....nice tip too
Windex works for bubbles too
What and where can I get good quality oil seals and cylinder gaskets
I would get oem parts for what u r talking about. Lots of different companies carry husqvarna oem parts. Hlsupply is one.. ereplacementparts is another. Lots of companies out there
Please advise? Link to parts for you to get credit ?
have you found any electronics from new chainsaws??
rs agarwaen what do you mean? I haven't worked on the newer auto tune saws yet
Inside the clutch cover is a black plastic piece that holds the tensioner spring in place. There are 4 screws part No. 503217010. What is the size of thase screws.
Matthew Olson maybe you can dispel what I think is a myth on the 455, lubricating the needle bearing most people think in the center of the crankshaft there is a hole that people put grease in thinking they are lubricating the bearing. I see nothing on the crank that would allow this and that hole is only about 5mm deep . So am I right that on the 455 Husqvarna the only way to lubricate it with grease is by removing the clutch assembly? And it would seem to me that very little if any bar oil would get to it.
some cranks do have a hole that you grease ... I don't know about the 455. if that outer hole on the end of the crank does communicate with a hole on the side of the crank corresponding with the needle bearing...then its greaseable. if not, gotta take the clutch off to lube it. ...which is easy if you have a clutch tool and an impact :)
Still looking for it and unless its microscopic I haven't found it yet. Also I have the Husqvarna clutch tool and screw in piston stop, for about $20.00 I don't know why anyone that has this saw wouldn't have these tools, they make the job so much easier and no risk of damaging something...like rope in the exhaust port or bending the springs on the clutch or like one idiot I know who broke a piece of the clutch off doing something stupid instead of having the right tool.
i like my rope still for the piston stop... it has some give to it and won't damage the piston. but you CAN get fibers in there if you stick it into the exhaust port accidentally, so .. no method is perfect.
if you have the clutch off the crank, you can stick the wd-40 nozzle/tube right in that crank hole and see if a squirt comes out the side. the hole is 1/16" or so in diameter if its on that crank.
also, the 455 rancher has been produced for many years. its POSSIBLE that the hole used to be there and is no longer...and vice versa.
So here is the info finally model year 2011 and older did have a greaseable crankshaft. Model years 2012 and up do not on the 455. On other Husqvarnas it depends on the year and model....so part urban myth part truth I guess but anyone making a broad statement that ALL Husqvarnas are greased this way through the crank is just wrong!
David Hobson nice job on the homework! !! Thanks!!
Nice bro 👌👍
I replaced my carburetor it looks like that went great no leaks everything looks good seems to work but my compression super tight now. I can barely pull the cord I took the spark plug out and rotated a few times put it back still way tight any ideas you have which may help I would really appreciate. Thanks
Is your decompression valve working? Does it rotate smooth with the spark plug out....did you pull the muffler and check condition of the piston....whats is the compression currently?
@@matthewolson8875 ill do all that
I should say it was running fine before the reason I change the carburetor is because the throttle would always stick wide-open
@@caldreamin09 is the throttle sticking now? ... was it the carb that was jamming open somehow?
What if you get the rope into the exhaust port and can't remove it because the crank won't turn back. The oiler quit working on my 455.
Good news is that's fairly difficult to do but it does happen....sometimes gotta pull the muff if that happens. Take the oiler out and see if it functions just by actuating it
@@matthewolson8875 Thanks for your quick reply. Great video by the way. The rope is stuck, and I don't have a long-enough 5mm allen for the exhaust removal. I'll figure it out--I do have some longer non-metric wrenches. Then there's that crazy wrench needed to remove the clutch. You seemed to have that in your tool box, but I don't. What was Husky thinking about?
@@marecooley7 you can make the clutch wrench by grinding an old socket to fit. The t handle wrenches are available from harbor freight for cheap
If 95 psi is low, what is the compression suppose to be?
About 150 in these is normal
Good video
i just picked up one of these from a guy who used it for a season than had it sit with gas in it for years, show me how to brake this sucker down matt woot woot.
Is there gaskets suppose to be on the carburetor
hmm, i don't think so, the rubber boot acts like a gasket between the carb and flange
Hello Matthew, I'm trying to track down a problem of fuel starvation. The saw runs then speeds up and shuts down like an empty tank but the tank is full. I can prime the saw and it runs but stalls in a minute or two. Been told to try replacing the fuel filter and I hope that's it but if the vent is a quick change and not expensive I'll do that at same time. Your vid mentioned the vent can be removed with pliers is that it or is there more to it? Bought saw new three years ago is just used to buck up fire wood only cut down maybe 2 dozen birch and poplar, and yes didn't drain fuel each year but kept it in heated basement. So a good service would be fuel filter, air filter, plug, and vent? Doug.
vent is good to replace if the saw runs lean after about 5 minutes of cutting. if it does it nearly immediately ....then its probably not the vent. filter and line is a good start. could be lots of other things though. next step is to throw a carb kit at it, though sometimes its much easier just to buy a new carb. can be a number of hours to do a carb kit...if you are going for super cheap, then fuel filter and line, and tear the carb apart and just clean it. sometimes the filter in the carb gets gummed up ..... have you messed with the tune at all?
Friends that use to log did after it was broken in. Run ok last year. Started up great this year but as you say after about five minutes from cold start, it ran lean (sped up and shut down). Now that it was warm I could prime it (primer bulb) and it would start immediately but shut down with in a minute more of a blub bulb die while using the throttle to try to keep it running. Got it to run just long enough to finish the cut and push the tree over. The sapling was just big enough to have injured someone could not have left it, with a partial cut, nor are you suppose to. No matter how big. Thanks for the quick response, Doug. I just reread what you typed there is a filter in the carb? Not just the filter in the tank? I'll rerun this vid again. Bolt by bolt yours is the best I've seen. Oh wife wants to know is your kid(s) following in daddies foot steps and taking things apart and putting them together. 😁
Open the fuel cap....this vents the tank. If it runs fine again for 5 minutes then it's the vent....yes there is a screen in the carb that gets gummed. Yes...my kids like to dismantle things lol
Also. ...these type of questions are best for the online forums.... opeforum.com or arboristsite or both
Matthew Olson ok thanks.
Hey mate one question. Ms291 or a 455 rancher
Honestly, I have run both and worked on both. 455 rancher all the way... no question. my experience is that it cuts faster, and is much less of a pain to tear down.
Matthew Olson thanks. Is it worth buying a old one and rebuilding it or getting a brand new one. They are very expensive
Nice shape 455s can be found around the 300 mark...usually complete saws in rough shape to for 200 with this particular chainsaw you can usually spend more than the saw is worth in parts so be careful about buying used and rebuilding
Thank you good video you are a good teacher. Video is so appreciated! Just so you will know there is another which has copied your video and title, word for word.
? Who?
ruclips.net/video/5h-IxtHZOmU/видео.html
Let me know how this works out with the copycat. And again thank you for this good video!
My question is I have 572xp the you know how the face plate has 2 bolts to attach to that are right above the chain adjustment, one is shorter then the other is there a way to make it back even?
The bar studs? On most husky they just press fit from oil tank side
@@matthewolson8875 ok so I just need to take it off and push them up to make them even then right ?
@@joshuaavila8401 they push in from the oil tank i think
How do you replace the chain stud bolts?
the bar bolts? tap them into the crankcase... they are just in press fit. then pull new back through, but make sure they are aligned properly ... rotationally they have a rectangle that has to fit into a slot inside the oil tank. you should be able to use a bar nut and some washers to pull it through. once it gets close to seating, use two bar nuts on one stud... tighten them together, and use that to rotate the stud as needed. then remove the nuts, go back to one nut and washers, and pull it that last 2-3mm through engaging the rectangle .... :) its probably in one of my vids somewhere lol
I was changing my carb and blade and between the two I had a rubber bushing stop (or something) fall out. I have NO idea where it goes. It is about 1/2 to 3/4 inches long not hollow but has a hole in one side with a lip …
Sounds like a tank limiter...
I have a 455 rancher that the fuel lines have started leaking.do you have a video on changing the fuel lines?
Not specifically no
I don't think the lines are hard to do...if I had one I'd do it for you live but I dont...sorry
13:15 He removes lines from purge. Short to short long to long. I had to use long screw to pull out part of hose. Long needle nose is nice here. Hint...cut line at 30 degree like the roses you just gave on Valentines Day to push through grommets easier. Cut straight before attaching new filter.
Got a question: Are the 460 Rancher saws 47mm bore or 49mm? I'm looking up parts for one and it's confusing what the bore size is....
460 is 49mm i think
@@matthewolson8875 Thanks. I noticed that when you order Caber rings for the 460 they are 49mm and when you order a Chinese cylinder and piston kit they say they're 47mm. I'll have to tear it down I guess because the piston looks good through the exhaust but the compression test showed around 70. It might just need rings unless it has a hole in the top of the piston or a crack in it...
@@joew9392 China doesn't make a 49mm head....47 only which is 455.....not 460. Iirc
Yes, that seems right. On their ads it says 455 and 460 so I guess it would fit the saw. Customer doesn't care as long as it runs and doesn't cost too much..
I have a husqvarna 450 rancher. The oiler adjustment screw is GONE I know what happend. Any idea? I didn't go wild slow adjustment. One day I picked it up to adjust the oil and the screw is completely gone.
Yikes. Nope....I dunno but it's not too hard to get a new oiler in there
@@matthewolson8875 thanks for the reply, can I just get a screw or a whole new oiler system ? I only ran it about 10 times cuttin up trees . It's brand knew lol I Olympic but the best oil and gas in it. To keep it running perfectly they should last a lifetime with proper maintenance
@@rooseveltbear8167 if the oiler is the same as the 455 it's a pretty easy install and yes you buy the whole boiler you will likely be able to find a used one on eBay
The real repair guy could sometimes be seen in the video, working on the floor next to the work bench.
Patriottoo2 ha! yep! :)
What torx size is used for husq chainsaws
Most of these are 4mm allen. T27 is typical stihl and newer husky stuff is switching to t27 as well
How did you clean it?
I use zep purple or mean green for cleaning stuff usually, sometimes steam, just soap and water.. .depends on what i'm doing
There its a more easy way too test the compresson , your test tell you noting , you air pressure , airtool nipple , turn the piston on top of btc, and do the test , it you get air of the exhast, inntake are the cylinder, piston bad, or renove the exhaust muffel fore inspection of piston, cylinder
from my years with these saws strait gas locks them up solid, had a worker kill a trimmer and a cut off saw of this brand and strait gas locks them up, i dont see any sense in doing a presser test because if your going to go to all that work to take it a part, your going to replace all seals ring, one would be dumb not to.. maybe piston and jug..
Is the impulse line nipple on the crankcase accessible (to replace the line) without disassembling the cover? Do you show that side of the connection in this vid or another? Having bogging issues on my 2010 model 455 rancher and have ruled out/replaced everything but this line and the fuel tank vent.. I dont see it shown on shop manual or any parts diagrams and my eyes arent that great to see it with a flashlight...(ive already installed new carb, fuel filter, fuel lines, primer bulb, air filter, checked and clean spark arrestor screen, spark plug, fresh gas)- starts and tuned it but intermittently bogs mid to upper revs) ive tried testing compression with 2 different testers and it was 75-80 BUT I tested 4 other 2 stroke machines with same testers with similar readings so I dont trust the readings and those saws dont have issues..( one of those is the identical 455 rancher but a 2015 and its also reading 75-80)
Did you pull the muffler and check the piston?
@@matthewolson8875 I pulled the muffler and the cylinder walls appear smooth, the piston moves smoothly and glistens with no scoring that i can see however the top and of top third of the exposed side of the piston have some carbon.. the ring looks unscored but appears tight..is it supposed to flex, be moveable, or have any gaps when cold?.. spark plug is grey..id post a video but i don't see that option..
edit: i got a look at the exhaust side with the spark plug removed and piston at bdc and do see some slight scratches in the cylinder wall..wonder if i overheated the saw and the ring seized? I also notice a sucking sound when i pull over the engine.. i replaced the fuel lines and primer bulb and i think its coming from the long line grommet for the primer bulb area..it can be heard in the video i took..saw feels like it has good compression when pull starting..
@@bkdarch is the carb new oem? Or aftermarket carb? .... these questions better answered on the forums...opeforum.com or arboristsite.com
@@matthewolson8875 amazon $20 carb.. runs a little better with this aftermarket one bc i didnt have the tool for the factory walbro and i was able to dremel off the limiters on this one..
@@bkdarch oem carb only.... get rid of the am carb.
Will this work for the 450E II?
It might be similar but the 450 is different
Thanks
Matthew, any videos on a Husqvarna 445 chainsaw.
I don't have one, sorry. I can't imagine its that much different than the 455. What do you need to know?
Well Matthew, one day I got it stuck in 22" tree that I had cut down. It was running perfectly up to that point. After wrestling with it for awhile I got to break free and it hasn't run right since. Starts right up and then quits. Runs for about a second. I changed fuel lines and rebuilt carburetor and still the same symptoms. A friend of mine told me that quite possibly the flexible intake had a split in it. It acts as though it might be getting too much air. According to my friend, this is a common problem with the 445 models. I would appreciate your thoughts on the matter. Thank you.
Hunter Dan tear her down...make a vid :) also....post the question at opeforum.com. ..your issue may or may not have to do with the injury to the saw.
How do I take the vibration isolator off the saw handle? (The bottom one isolator spring)
4mm allen, stick it through the screw hole in the av mount
@@matthewolson8875 man a little WD and a different Allen wrench worked, thank you!
@@matthewolson8875 I'm gonna run this saw till the death
Props to you for doing this for free brother.
Optimus over and out
Matt!!! Man😆😆😆 Nice.😆
Is this the same saw as my Jonsered CS2255?
Internally I think they are the same
NormK yup