how to - husqvarna 55 51 chainsaw full tear down disassembly
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2018
- just a video of me fully taking a Husqvarna 51 55 apart to the crankcase I didn't split the crank but the procedure is the same as on another video I have posted
Thank you.
👌🏽thanks for the vid, had to find a gas leak hah
People watching this if you ever tap a wrist pin out garbage or not please make it a practice to support the piston. Just put a block of wood or something behind it. You can bend the rod or ruin a bearing.
Thousands of engines later and I've never once bent a rod but yes that is a good practice.
73 years old and hundreds of saw rebuilds and I’ve never either. I’m not downing your video in any way has I really enjoyed it but just trying to let someone who is just learning know. Please keep up the good work you’re doing sir and thank you for your videos.❤
Can i just split the cases and let the bearing pull that oil pump gear off the crank?
I'm in the process of tearing down and rebuilding a Husqvarna 55. It sounds like you've got a lot of experience. Three problem the saw had was the carb wasn't fully attached to the engine so extra air got in and caused scoring on the piston and sleeve. I ordered a Meteor kit and it includes the crank seals and lower end gasket. I'm hesitant to get that deep into it risking messing up the lower end. Is it pretty straight forward after doing what you've done here in the video? Can the oiler be removed and reinstalled without that special tool? Any other foreseeable issue that might come up? Thanks!
The hardest part would be removing the flywheel and the clutch, when I was just starting out these were daunting because without a puller the flywheel has to be whacked off with a hammer and if not done right or it's just really stuck on you can damage (and ruin) the end of the crankshaft, the clutch is reverse thread and without an Impact to take it off you have to stop the piston with either a piston stop or VERY carefully with a rope
Though I will say if you know for sure that was the cause of failure the seals are probably good, the weak spot on those saws is the little tiny rubber impulse nipple to the bottom left of the intake boot if those are leaking the saw will run (pretty well) for about an hour so definitely replace that part #505310751 that may be an old number but I it will get you on the right track
@@Coakleyfixedit207 Thanks for your responses. It has scoring on the exhaust side. While disassembling, one of the two bolts holding the carb to the head was stripped. That and there wasn't an air filter. I'm fairly sure the seals are okay, and there's no sign of an air leak in the bottom end that I could see. Still torn as I already have the parts. I've taken off a bunch of mower flywheels using that method but not the smaller ones on a saw. I'll be sure to replace that pulse seal too.
@@Tbizzh those seals fit dozens of husqvarna and jonsered saws so not a bad thing to have handy, if there is ever something you want to see a video on let me know and I'll make one I haven't posted in awhile
I have a 2003 Rancher 55, and it's been a very solid saw. Recently it's been leaking the bar oil badly and I can tell a good amount of the bar oil is coating the entire saw (not confined to the chain/bar like it should). Please, is the bar/chain oiler pump the culprit? How about whatever hose/connection allows the oil to go from the reservoir into the pump? Also, it bogs a little, you indicated my fuel line might be compromised. Plz, must I remove the carb to replace that line? Thanks for any advice, or part numbers. East Arizona viewer.
The oil leak could be the line or grommet that goes into the tank, if you have a pair of skinny hemostats you may be able to fish the fuel line into place without removing the carb if not taking the carb off might be unavoidable
My flywheel is really stuck and don’t really want to buy the 100 dollar tool, would heating up the fly wheel a bit help you think?
Yes if you can keep the heat off the crank the flywheel will expand and may come off easier, I've also had luck gently tapping a plastic wedge behind the flywheel than trying to knock it so it has pressure pushing out at the same time
@@Coakleyfixedit207 Friend, the revolutions 13200 max for the saw 372xp oe 2003 are okay?
@@Sensei948 if it has a black coil than yes if it's a blue coil they are limited to 12,500, though it's worth stating that setting them to max rpm doesn't really make them any more powerful you're not cutting at max rpm
I have one that I’m taking apart, and Head will not come off the piston. What could be causing the problem
If all 4 bolts are out of the cylinder and it won't slide off usually the saw had a catastrophic failure and something is wedged in there or water got in and the rings rusts and seized to the cylinder wall, was it seized when you started taking it apart?
@@Coakleyfixedit207 thank you for the quick response. Found a problem I’m not sure if somebody was inside of the engine before but the sea clips that hold the pistons on the rod was missing and the wrist pin was sliding out and got wedge inside the cylinder, got it out and put some c clip back in and she’s as good as new
@Evolution garage if the gap on the clips is facing the sides not up and down centrifugal force can cause them to pop out, lucky you got it off, I had on that the wrist pin got stuck in the ports and I had the cut the cylinder in half to get it off
@@Coakleyfixedit207 Thsts exactly what happen the pin was stuck in the port , but it was only sticking out about a half a mm I got real lucky , so I got a free saw because they couldn’t figure out the problem , obviously this issue cause the pull string to not work because the piston won’t rotate.
What name Milwaukee tool?
That's the old style m12 bit driver impact
@@Coakleyfixedit207 thank you very much
What tools
The 2 most common ones you need on these are a 4mm Allen ph2 Phillips head 8mm socket 13mm socket and a 3/4 socket (with the wrench to go with of course)
@@Coakleyfixedit207 Millwaike what tool?
@@Coakleyfixedit207 thank you