Buy a compression tester here ---- amzn.to/2jGmoOC Click here for my website--- www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ Click here for my Parts and Tools Store---- www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon
I owe you a beer 🍺 I thought my Stijl MS 181 was fried and watched your video on how to start taking it apart. We were just about to buy a new one tomorrow for £315 a so I thought I had nothing to lose in taking it apart. Went to take the spark plug out to check the piston like you instructed and found the spark plug had worked it’s way loose and was just flopping about. Tightened it up with my fingers and it started straight up. Seems that you have saved me £315 - I guess that’s about $500. Thank you from the UK 🇬🇧
This is golden!!! I just lost out on $50 dollars for this. Couldn’t figure out what was going on. BAM!! I just so happen to miss this video snd found it late
Hey Steve.... if shops usually spend only 5 mins to determine if something is worth fixing or not then why do they charge 30 mins to 1 hr MINIMUM for their shop time just to look at it? You walk in the door already knowing you have to pay them 30 mins to 1 hr for their time but their time is only in reality 5 mins. Doesn't seem fair but thank you for helping us out and saving us money by telling us what to do BEFORE taking it to the shop. Keep up the great videos my friend !!!
Wow! You`re a real professional, not only in mechanics, but as a presenter...thumbs up my friend. Really educational and your pictures are awesome. Keep up the good work.
Steve another good quick point to include in this video is mentioning the two most common reasons piston/cylinder scoring and seizure happen and that is number #1 bad mix or straight gas, this will toast an engine immediately but the second reason is much less known and it happens gradually over time and it is number #2 cold start n use, never fire up a saw and immediately start cutting with it because the exhaust side of the piston heats up and expands much quicker than the cylinder and if you go wide open throttle under load when it is still cold you will get metal to metal contact between the exhaust side of the piston/cylinder which will cause micro scoring each and every time you do that so when starting up a saw let er warm up for a good 15 seconds or more before ever touching wood, the better warmed up it is before starting the cutting the less immediate wear happens on these parts and believe it or not if you properly warm up these engines before cutting many times they will last 5,10 and maybe even more years under heavy use. Good quality mix 40 to one and proper warming up period will help make a saw engine last a very very long time, given that it is a brand name to start with such as Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo, etc etc.
Steve. Thanks for explaining things in simple terms. The speed that you talk and the way you deliver your videos is exceptional. Im currently learning small motors and my instructor make this video so hard to comprehend. If your ever in Australia... beers on me.
Glad you are doing a 101 class on these little engines. A lot of folks just need the basics to get started. I've saved money and equipment through my learning career. And you have taught me many things about these small 2 strokes I should have known, but didnt... Thanks!
Just started a side business to my garden maintenance job fixing 2 stroke machines , first mistake on my first customer buying a carb kit when its piston is shot . I can get it to run at full speed but wont idle at all . Lesson learnt , 1st check : compression . Thank you .
Thanks Steve for How to fix a chainsaw that wont start & laying it out in order. I got a free chainsaw that was 20+ years old, wouldn't start So found your site... after putting a carb kit in it. Checked the cylinder & piston & they were worn with about 70Lbs of compression. Went through the rest of your steps just for fun & realized I still have a lot of good parts for another project . Thanks again.
Can't believe we did not watch this video sooner, great thing to bring to the attention of your subscribers and others watching. A tip from Eliminator Performance always check the head bolts on the cylinder head also. We have had a number of chainsaws that would not start only because they were losing compression from loose head bolts and even had one chainsaw where one head bolt had come completed unseated and fallen out. This is now standard procedure on all two stroke equipment since it appears the vibration has caused these head bolts to loosen off.
I have the same ms 230 you have, I had it 10 years now, I just changed the plug in it the first time this summer, it runs perfect no issues, I use Sthil oil and premium fuel and I cut 5-6 cords of wood every year, I guess doing maintenance will make a saw last a long time.
Trying to help fix a buddies Stihl. Service said it had “scored pistons” so I thought I’d learn more. Knowledge is power^3. This is such an awesome video. I do engineering of several types (electrical and electronic) but I don’t know engines except basics. This was an awesome watch! Subscribed immediately. I love you Canadians! From Iowa USA! 🇺🇸 🇨🇦
BTW if they would get the bright idea to plate those pistons and sleeves with PVD, TiAlN or TiN that would never ever happen ever. I’m surprised no one does that with today’s technology. It wouldn’t add much cost and would save them a ton on warranty’s and us too after it runs out.
Well Steve I have no complaint. Your videos benefit so many of us, plus the entertainment value. Besides I don't think this video was out of sync. Everything you just showed us is material I received from you before... some here and some there. So I am happy. Just kerp doing what you have been doing. Oh and thanks for having your neighbour Smith on your show. I am reorganizing a very small shop. I drill all my ax handles so they can be put on a nail and not laying around. After watching you and BRS I said, "I can hang axes too!"
If you have a scored piston but the rings have not become stuck you can restore some of the compression by running 30 to 1. They will often run for a long time and give good power if you cannot afford a top end kit.
Sounds reasonable as have actually poured a little 1/4 - 1/2 tsp. regular motor oil through the spark plug hole of a saw with scored cylinder. Will temporarily increase the compression enough for the saw to start. More of a troubleshooting method for us home hacks who don't have fancy compression testers, scopes, do not want to tear the muffler off for a look inside. Reason being of course when the saw stops will not restart without given another dose of oil.
@@markbaker1843you need a compression tester every small engine I've ever touched other that those ezstart caps lol. They all have a very hard pull you feel every stroke of the piston chainsaw and other hand helps should hang when you hold em by the pull chord. If it don't hang then it doesn't have compression
Crap! I should have watched this video first! I bought new carb kit that included new spark plug, fuel filter, fuel lines, and spark plug. Trimmer still wouldn’t start. I remembered I had a compression tester and decided to check the compression which turned out to be only 50psi. Thought that might be low so decided to consult YT and found this video! Guess this confirms the engine is for crap and since it’s a cheap Yardmachine Y2510 I won’t be fixing it. Glad the carb kit was only $16 on Amazon not not too expensive of a lesson to learn. Thanks for your video!
A big thanks all the way from Scotland. Long story short you educated me enough to fix my chainsaw, luckily i think I'd added too much oil to the mix, piston was still in good condition, changing the fuel and cleaning spark plug done the job.
Thanks! I just got an old chainsaw yesterday. Even if out doesn't work I'd like to experiment with it. I saw your other video first where you referred to this one and I'm glad I watched it. Thanks a million.
You have saved me a ton of money and headaches, and your videos are very entertaining. You also introduced me to Buckin's channel. Thanks Steve! You are a great man!
Thanks so much for this! It happens that my two saws are exactly the makes and models as your examples. And the Poulan is calling for exactly the inspection you describe, so super timely! This was the most useful 14 minutes I've spent in quite a while!
Hay Steve I love your videos and your whole beer thing. You are a very knowledgeable person and I want to thank you for all your help,,, ok quick story family member dropped off three chainsaws so bought three carbs. Change carbs one can’t get started other runs very erratic even after tuning. Moral of story two bad pistons lol. Thanks again Steve
Watched this a few days too late for me (I bought a new carb which did nothing)...but great video. Far more insight than 99% of what I looked at before. Only thing I can add is hold the rope and see how slowly the saw drops - I can't even pick mine up. That will give some idea of the compression
Thanks for all the great tips on troubleshooting small engines. I have a husky 570XP that runs fine, piston and cylinder looks fine. I was curious about compression so I got a tester... Pulled and pulled, came up zero. Thought maybe the tester was bad. I broke out my 40 year old craftsman press on tester. I was able to make 25lbs...I knew that the crank seals were good.. my suspect was the decomposition valve. I pulled it and found the rod was bent, so it would not make a solid seal. Must of been enough to run, but I’m sure it would have caused a major problem if not addressed. New valve is on order. Thanks again for the money saving tips. Guys with big saws with the Decomposition valve need to check that it is functional properly during the compression test.
....great DIY video Steve......thanks for posting....I am currently restoring a classic Stihl 026 that was never taking care of properly....I took off the muffler and looked at the piston...it has a little scuffing, but not bad and the rings are free...moveable.....I took your advice and ordered a compression gauge...waiting on delivery....I'm hoping the reading is over 100 psi, but if not, I will replace the cylinder and piston....thanks again for a great video that gives me the confidence to do this myself...keep the videos coming.. :)
Great videos man...I catch myself watching a lot of them here at work and even at home out in my shop while I'm tinkering around. Thanks again and keep 'em coming for us here in North Central Florida! 🍻
Steve, Thanks for all the info. Now have to decide if I am going to try and repair the free! Stihl MS311 that I was given in a bucket! Really came in a 5 gallon bucket! At 79 I have time and energy to try it. Might be fun!
I currently have a 5 month old Husqvarna 395XP in my shop with a completely destroyed piston. Actually found pieces of the piston in the muffler. I'm pretty sure this one is worth fixing. Wrist pin needles are good, crankcase innards look and feel good.
I am presently replacing purge bulb & fuel lines on my Poulan 4018 chainsaw & I did observe the piston & cylinder through the exhaust & looks to be in good condition as you showed in your video. The pullcord test is also hard enough to pull so compression should be acceptable, but I will also look into getting a pressure gauge.
I was given a Husky 440 chainsaw that didn't run. I checked the compression and it was only about 70 PSI. I decided I would like to try rebuilding the saw as a hobbyist project. I bought an aftermarket top-end and installed it. I still only had about 70 PSI after the new top end was installed. Is there something else that can cause low compression besides the top end (cylinder, piston, piston ring, wrist ping, and wrist pin bearing)?
Nice! My old neighbour gave me his 'old' Poulan 36cc woodshark, said it "was crap". I know nothing about saws, but free is hard to beat. And it came with a chain sharpening kit. Saw the fuel lines were cracked up. Spent 6$ and 6hrs to fix (3hrs of how to get lines through those tiny holes, 2hrs figuring out they were in wrong to begin with). Used you 'chain oil spray' test (1hr to clean the blade), now oiler works. Tensioned like you said (blade held up). Oh boy, I never checked the piston. I'm running out to the garage right now... wish me luck!
Before trying to get the hose in the holes, I make sure I have an inch or so of excess hose and garb the end and stretch it until it is slightly pointed. (Heating it helps) ,or slice the hose with a razor longways then push it far into the tank, then I am able to garb it with needle nose pliers.
I bought a very nice MS271 locally that had no compression for 100.00, found an excellent piston, cylinder and crank with very low (2) hours on ebay for 120.00 and now I have a very nice chainsaw. For a little more, I probably could have bought a used MS271 online, but then I wouldn't know it's history or what shape the cylinder was in, plus the shipping would have drove the price up. The old cylinder that I removed is probably salvageable too, so I can use it for another build. BONUS: It was fun doing the repair and it brought me satisfaction! (looks like that bad cylinder on your bench is from a MS271).
This is great. Appreciate the fact that I didn't know that the piston (without oil) would get hot enough to melt and bind the rings... in addition to scoring,
Gonna dive in and change the piston on my 661, which im pretty sure I cooked. Wish I had seen your video on letting the saw warm up enough before running it super hard.
Great video thank you! Now I know what to look for. I’m running in to the issue of my chainsaw not starting, it does when it’s choked, but when I give it gas it dies. Or it would rev real high then die. I found your other video of the “crickly” diaphragm fuel filter that I could also check.
very helpful, my ms250 saw has been great but now compression is bad after 5 years, think I will buy new one and keep the old one as a project saw...…… and if I can rebuild it over time, it will be a second saw, which I have always wanted.Thanks!
Steve! Like the videos. Big help. Pistons look good on my 2 saws. Stihl ms 250 and husqvarna 41. Neither is running right. Going to keep watching your videos. Thanks
🚤 Steve i do restorations on late 40’s early 50’s vintage outboard motors, whenever i check for compression on motor I give the cylinder a “light” spray of engine storage spray to lightly lube a dry cylinder that might not have been moved in over 20 years. Someone told me that would drastically affect the meter reading. I feel it will be a truer reading of the working load. I feel Im correct, am I wrong?
I thought i took such good care of my little poulan pp5020av. Nice Oregon bar and "ripping" chain. Just a touch of nitromethane for a little more pep... Broke her out to finally take out a pesky tree, started fine, didn't feel quite right. Cutting the tree, it felt a little gutless. Fresh fuel, fresh 3 capfulls of NM... I get the tree down, sliced it up into bite size pieces. I decide to dig into the saw, cleaned it up and looked it over, preparing to rebuild the carb... Pulled the muffler while cleaning the wood chunks out, and i see it. My rings and cylinder wall! Chrome lining had some light gathering properties... Now i wonder, am i sure i didn't pit half of the oil in the last premix fill? Saw is cheap, looks like fun to rebuild... meh i ordered the parts! Plenty of beer on hand to complete the job!
I think it was pretty decent of you to allow Rick to remain anonymous. Even the professionals occasionally screw up and use straight gas, and it can be an expensive mistake. I have a prominently labeled gas can so I can't mess up.
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon and it confirmed what you already taught me with the compression being low on the pull. 60psi on an echo pb-2520. My echo pas-225 motor head has 135psi. Took it apart and it appears to have light scoring on the sides of the piston and a pinhole in the top of the piston. Crazy. only ran it with 50:1 but I used ethanol fuel. I've since switched to non-ethanol. Thanks so much for all you do. I've learned so much about small engines from you. Really appreciate it.
Great video !! You are absolutely right 👉 if the piston and or the cylinder wall is scored up 👆 then don't bother with it unless you are going to fix that problem before you do anything else! I have a poulan just like the one you showed on here , it looks new but the side of the piston by the exhaust is slightly scored up , also have a red craftsman chainsaw just like the poulan and it cranks and revs up but low compression , and it's quirky like it don't wanna idle , then you have it on the ground after cranking it and letting it warm up , revving it up 👆 some and you pick it up off the ground to walk to the tree and it dies !!!??? I'm thinking low compression and bad crank seals or air leak at base gasket or carburetor intake boot ! Bottom line for a chainsaw to run properly the case must be leak free and the cylinder piston must be in almost brand new condition also of course the carburetor must be adjusted and working properly , sounds like a no Brainer but actually the seals can be the culprits a lot of the times ! Now for some cheap aftermarket piston cylinder kits !
Hi Steve, yes checking the compression is one of the first things to test in my Mercury Outboard service manual. It states if the compression is not correct to address it before proceeding on. That too is if the owner wants to spend the money fixing it? Good video. Cheers🍺
I have a Stihl 193t (with some scoring on the exhaust side) but it runs great and the compression is good. Are most scored cylinders doomed to eventually fail? Is the time to change out the piston/cylinder when the compression gets below around a 100psi?
The saw looks brand new. The pull handle does move the piston up and down. In fact, the thing tries to pull your arm out of it's socket when the cord retracts. So my next step now that it's warmer, is to give it a shot of starter fluid and try it again. But, from what I have read- if anything is subject to failure it's the "solid state" part of the saw. I'm guessing that the solid state part is the ignition. So we'll see, but I agree with you, I'm not giving up on the saw until it proves to be too expensive to repair.
Hey Steve is me again I am working on stihl 029 ( I know is an old piece of junk is just me, a 'friend' gave it tome very abuse saw )any way when I go to use a make a gasket (yamabond 4) to put the crank shaft in do I put the parts together as soon after I make the gasket on both surfaces or I wait like 24 hours until is hard, I hope you understand what I am trying to say my English is terrible,and I still like your videos is nice to learn and to have fun at the same time, and I am still only drinking one beer (cold) at once. thankyou for you patience, your videos are explain to the point .
Going to check it out I got three chainsaws won’t start oh I had it running but it just keeps it’s hard to start it you got a poor poor poor to get started
Really good video there av just done a carb partially rebuild on my 17 year old stihl 320l blower and av not checked that a never thought am learning as a go I have however checked spark so before a refit the carb am hoping it will be ok am going to get a compression tester watched a lot of videos on you tube but yours R far the best also love it wen you say any beer will do or am useing Budweiser today just great !!
Here with me in Kuwait, the situation is different as told before. I have repaired the damaged cylinder kit and made it run just by changing sometime only rings. It takes time. Here in ,troublesome customers, lack of spares are a big issue. Sometimes I have to make somethings by my own ideas.
Great video as always, Steve! hmmmm, wish I'd seen this video a week ago before ordering that full carb replacement/fuel lines (only $20 though). After pulling apart the engine, major scoring, stuck piston rings. Learned a lesson about the adequate feel of the pull rope and compression. Not fully sure why it failed, maybe raw fuel. Now, should I spend about $70-$80 on a cylinder and piston kit for a $180 tool?
I opted to replace the cylinder and piston in my Tanaka (Hitachi) weed eater. Parts were cheap enough and I figured I'd learn a thing or two even if I failed. One question I'm struggling with: Do I need to hone or otherwise prep the brand new cylinder?
Hey Steve, the guy you referred to as Rick that ran straight gas in his chainsaw and destroyed the top end. My question is. Does that generally affect the short block, crank bearing, rod, etc. Asking for a friend 😊.
Great video, thank you. Good information that will save a lot of people time and money on repairs. I will say I once got corrected sharply by pronouncing Poulan the same you do, by a guy that lived in a Poulan factory town. It's apparently pronounced "Pole-An" not "Poo-Lan".
My Pull-on always starts, the trick is to place it on a good solid surface grasp the handle firmly then pull violently until you start to see spots and near unconsciousness. I guarantee it fires right up everytime!
Really good explanation Steve on how to determine a compression issue. I really liked your informative video. Obviously you look at this from a small engine mechanic's viewpoint on what a customer should pay to repair a machine versus just buying a new one. But this video didn't really help me with what I was hoping to learn. I have a Sthil HC56C hedge trimmer. I already know I have a bad piston and I know that it is not cost effective to pay my local dealer to repair it. But I want to repair it myself. I already have the replacement piston and cylinder. I was hoping to find a video that actually shows the DIY way of replacing a piston. No knock on your video. It was great for what it was but it came up short for what I was looking for. You obviously know what you are doing! Peace Brother!
What an awesome question Tony! I am going to work on a video for that now. Few reasons off the top of my head are----dirt ingestion, cutting with a dull chain, air leak, (cold seizure) not warming it up! Plugged exhaust etc.... Thanks for the video idea my friend....
#1 is lean seize failure...guys lean out the fuel mixture at the needle valve to get more power....when they take the seized saw to the Dealer...they usually say..."It was running pretty darn good, right before it quit"....
OVER HEATING ENGINE TO MANY TIMES, USE TO HOT SPARK PLUG, EXSESSIVE HOURS OF USE, BLOWN HEAD GASKET FROM OVERHEATING, NOT OILING OIL FILTER OR CLEANING ENOUGH, CHEAP BLOCK ALUMINUM METAL FROM FACTORY.
I have a Poulan Blower, and the first one went bad when the cylinder screws came loose, so I check them twice a year when I do maintenance. My new one had loose screws that I didn't catch in time, and my question is: The piston and cylinder don't look scored or bad at all, but there is carbon on the sides of the piston, and the ring (it only has one) is stuck in the piston resulting in only 60 lbs compression, and I use new, quality gas and oil. Since I recently bought a new ignition coil and carb, can I get away with replacing the ring and gaskets only, or should I replace the piston?
Stihl 017 does not start looks like its flooding out. i checked the compression with 6 pulls it has 100 psi not sure if it is worth a new carb? looked at cylinder wall and piston look good tho. Steve thanks for the info...
Great job and presentation, but four strokes need compression also if the valve seats are toasted or the cylinder is scored the engine will have low compression and will have low power or won't run. I don't need to tell you just shouting out. Keep the vids comming love them very informative.
Very true. The reason I said this doesn't apply to four strokes is because if you pull the muffler off and look inside, you cant see the piston. You will just see the exhaust valve! I definitely could have been more clear on that. Oh well, I live and learn....
Steve's Small Engine Saloon well after I hit send it hit me and I realized that's what you meant to say. Lol. Great info though. Wish I had the tall pines like you have on the west coast up there well I should say the island .. Have a great day
First thing I do is grab the pull cord and lift the unit and let it hang, it should pretty much hang off the pull cord. If it doesn't there is compression issues.
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon my 61 husqvarna can't and has 149psi but it pretty heavy so i would have to say with the exception of some older saws like my 61 I really love your videos your one of the best small engine guys to watch☺☺
I love your videos. I have a Husqvarna 125b blower. Won't start. I can see a few score marks on piston. Ring on piston is still good. Can this be saved or need a new kit.
Steve, I need an honest opinion, I have reached out to stihl and mtd in the past about problems with parts (new) and been blown off, the old "we haven't heard of any issues" type responses. anyway I figured I'd get an honest answer from you if you've experienced this. I put new piston and rings in a stihl ms311 and ms 391 (same series of saw) after cleaning up and honing the original cylinder. NEITHER worked would start once, then not again. well, I swapped out carburetor, coil, gas, cuss words, etc, and NOTHING. so I took a Sunday (quiet. nobody else in the shop type thing) and got really personal with the 391. come to find out the new rings were stuck in the piston. everything was clean upon assembly, still looked clean, but the rings were stuck. I had used bar oil for assembly lube, I've just switched to 2 cycle oil. so I rubbed the rings on sandpaper, and also run some sandpaper in the ring grooves, cleaned the hell out of everything again, and reassembled. it worked and is running now. so today, another Sunday, I did the same to the 311. same thing, stuck rings. did same thing cleaning it all up again, and now it seems fine. my question- is there any issues of the OEM stihl piston/rings sets for those series of saw? I've done at least 50 in the past. never had an issue (even when I used the cheap chineese stuff) but now I've had TWO, and they were the same series of saw. stihls fault or mine?
the best way i find testing for compression and easiest for everyone is just grab the pull start of the machine and pick it up by only the pull start handle only. dont yank the pull start. the machine doesnt drop or start cycling strokes, for sure i can tell that it has good compression. if not, the handle cant pick it up or cycles through strokes it tells me that it has bad compression. 2 symptoms i know the cause of bad compression is that ether the customer had be mixing improper mixture (less oil) or they have had overheated the engine by not checking to cleaning air filter, anything clogging air from pull start vents to arround sleeves on the cylinder or also happen to overheat and score the piston by reving the saw without putting a load on it
I had a piston get it's ring's stuck and had some ALU stuck to the cylinder Wall I used acid to remove the aluminum from the cylinder Wall and got a new piston, it was not a friendly EPA piston. Cost was about $40.00, now the saw has more HP, the saw was just over a year old and cost $350.
Darn, my 10 year old Ryobi RCS3535CA chainsaw is finally toast :(. Seemed to going well until it just stopped halfway through a log cutting session. Changed the fuel, cleaned the carb, then replaced the carb, still no joy. Watched this video, figured out how to remove the muffler (2 hidden bolts) and "low and behold": scored piston visible through the exhaust port :( Perhaps I didn't mix the Oregon 2-stroke oil into the gas in the gas can sufficiently; or perhaps it just got too hot; or perhaps it didn't care for Oregon 2-stroke oil (I normally use one of those little Stihl plastic ampules) although I used the same fuel in my old Stihl strimmer/weedwacker, without problem so far. Thanks Steve, at least I finally know that it is time to move on - battery chainsaw perhaps. Oregon CS300 perhaps?
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Buy a compression tester here ---- amzn.to/2jGmoOC
Click here for my website--- www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/
Click here for my Parts and Tools Store---- www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon
Hii
Hello
Bolo
Steve gives out literal tons of free valuable information years on end, then apologizes lol. Truly a gem of a human being.
I owe you a beer 🍺
I thought my Stijl MS 181 was fried and watched your video on how to start taking it apart.
We were just about to buy a new one tomorrow for £315 a so I thought I had nothing to lose in taking it apart.
Went to take the spark plug out to check the piston like you instructed and found the spark plug had worked it’s way loose and was just flopping about.
Tightened it up with my fingers and it started straight up.
Seems that you have saved me £315 - I guess that’s about $500.
Thank you from the UK 🇬🇧
You're Welcome...
This is golden!!!
I just lost out on $50 dollars for this.
Couldn’t figure out what was going on.
BAM!! I just so happen to miss this video snd found it late
Hey Steve.... if shops usually spend only 5 mins to determine if something is worth fixing or not then why do they charge 30 mins to 1 hr MINIMUM for their shop time just to look at it? You walk in the door already knowing you have to pay them 30 mins to 1 hr for their time but their time is only in reality 5 mins. Doesn't seem fair but thank you for helping us out and saving us money by telling us what to do BEFORE taking it to the shop. Keep up the great videos my friend !!!
It's because between the bookwork, and meeting with you when picking up and dropping off, it always takes more than just 5 minutes of time.
you are eat up with it
Wow! You`re a real professional, not only in mechanics, but as a presenter...thumbs up my friend. Really educational and your pictures are awesome. Keep up the good work.
Thank You...
200% agreed with that comment.
Steve another good quick point to include in this video is mentioning the two most common reasons piston/cylinder scoring and seizure happen and that is number #1 bad mix or straight gas, this will toast an engine immediately but the second reason is much less known and it happens gradually over time and it is number #2 cold start n use, never fire up a saw and immediately start cutting with it because the exhaust side of the piston heats up and expands much quicker than the cylinder and if you go wide open throttle under load when it is still cold you will get metal to metal contact between the exhaust side of the piston/cylinder which will cause micro scoring each and every time you do that so when starting up a saw let er warm up for a good 15 seconds or more before ever touching wood, the better warmed up it is before starting the cutting the less immediate wear happens on these parts and believe it or not if you properly warm up these engines before cutting many times they will last 5,10 and maybe even more years under heavy use. Good quality mix 40 to one and proper warming up period will help make a saw engine last a very very long time, given that it is a brand name to start with such as Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo, etc etc.
Steve. Thanks for explaining things in simple terms. The speed that you talk and the way you deliver your videos is exceptional. Im currently learning small motors and my instructor make this video so hard to comprehend. If your ever in Australia... beers on me.
I appreciate that!
Glad you are doing a 101 class on these little engines. A lot of folks just need the basics to get started. I've saved money and equipment through my learning career. And you have taught me many things about these small 2 strokes I should have known, but didnt... Thanks!
Glad to help
Just started a side business to my garden maintenance job fixing 2 stroke machines , first mistake on my first customer buying a carb kit when its piston is shot . I can get it to run at full speed but wont idle at all .
Lesson learnt , 1st check : compression .
Thank you .
You're Welcome...
One of the most helpful vids I've ever seen on this topic. Deciding whether to toss some stuff that has only 50psi. THANK YOU!
Glad it was helpful!
Good tip I bought a tester 40 years ago to use on a car motor it is worth the money to check saws and blowers with.
Thanks Steve, I did waste 4 hours trying to start. Will be buying another chainsaw and this this for parts.
Thanks!
Welcome!
Thanks Steve for How to fix a chainsaw that wont start & laying it out in order. I got a free chainsaw that was 20+ years old, wouldn't start So found your site... after putting a carb kit in it. Checked the cylinder & piston & they were worn with about 70Lbs of compression. Went through the rest of your steps just for fun & realized I still have a lot of good parts for another project . Thanks again.
Glad to help
Can't believe we did not watch this video sooner, great thing to bring to the attention of your subscribers and others watching. A tip from Eliminator Performance always check the head bolts on the cylinder head also. We have had a number of chainsaws that would not start only because they were losing compression from loose head bolts and even had one chainsaw where one head bolt had come completed unseated and fallen out. This is now standard procedure on all two stroke equipment since it appears the vibration has caused these head bolts to loosen off.
I have the same ms 230 you have, I had it 10 years now, I just changed the plug in it the first time this summer, it runs perfect no issues, I use Sthil oil and premium fuel and I cut 5-6 cords of wood every year, I guess doing maintenance will make a saw last a long time.
Right on...
Thanks Steve I will definitely put my dad’s chainsaw on the compression tester it’s definitely scored but still runs .
Steve... that was an excellent presentation, clear, precise, and easy to understand. The photography was spot on! Thanks for another great video,
Thanks John...
Trying to help fix a buddies Stihl. Service said it had “scored pistons” so I thought I’d learn more. Knowledge is power^3. This is such an awesome video. I do engineering of several types (electrical and electronic) but I don’t know engines except basics. This was an awesome watch! Subscribed immediately. I love you Canadians! From Iowa USA! 🇺🇸 🇨🇦
BTW if they would get the bright idea to plate those pistons and sleeves with PVD, TiAlN or TiN that would never ever happen ever. I’m surprised no one does that with today’s technology. It wouldn’t add much cost and would save them a ton on warranty’s and us too after it runs out.
Anybody else wish they would have watched this before rebuilding the carb? ✋thanks for the great info Steve.
You're Welcome...
Well Steve I have no complaint. Your videos benefit so many of us, plus the entertainment value.
Besides I don't think this video was out of sync. Everything you just showed us is material I received from you before... some here and some there.
So I am happy. Just kerp doing what you have been doing.
Oh and thanks for having your neighbour Smith on your show.
I am reorganizing a very small shop. I drill all my ax handles so they can be put on a nail and not laying around. After watching you and BRS I said, "I can hang axes too!"
If you have a scored piston but the rings have not become stuck you can restore some of the compression by running 30 to 1. They will often run for a long time and give good power if you cannot afford a top end kit.
Sounds reasonable as have actually poured a little 1/4 - 1/2 tsp. regular motor oil through the spark plug hole of a saw with scored cylinder. Will temporarily increase the compression enough for the saw to start. More of a troubleshooting method for us home hacks who don't have fancy compression testers, scopes, do not want to tear the muffler off for a look inside. Reason being of course when the saw stops will not restart without given another dose of oil.
@@markbaker1843you need a compression tester every small engine I've ever touched other that those ezstart caps lol. They all have a very hard pull you feel every stroke of the piston chainsaw and other hand helps should hang when you hold em by the pull chord. If it don't hang then it doesn't have compression
Dad you mean on this little hanging technique could you explain more please😊
Hey retired firefighter here and I really enjoy your channel. I know my saw enjoy's you also, lol. Take care and God bless
Thank You...
Crap! I should have watched this video first! I bought new carb kit that included new spark plug, fuel filter, fuel lines, and spark plug. Trimmer still wouldn’t start. I remembered I had a compression tester and decided to check the compression which turned out to be only 50psi. Thought that might be low so decided to consult YT and found this video! Guess this confirms the engine is for crap and since it’s a cheap Yardmachine Y2510 I won’t be fixing it. Glad the carb kit was only $16 on Amazon not not too expensive of a lesson to learn. Thanks for your video!
Hey steve i just checked my year 2000 stihl 029 super through the spark plug and its as smooth as a whistle inside. Thank you for this video.
You're Welcome...
A big thanks all the way from Scotland. Long story short you educated me enough to fix my chainsaw, luckily i think I'd added too much oil to the mix, piston was still in good condition, changing the fuel and cleaning spark plug done the job.
Nice work!
Thanks! I just got an old chainsaw yesterday. Even if out doesn't work I'd like to experiment with it. I saw your other video first where you referred to this one and I'm glad I watched it. Thanks a million.
You're Welcome...
You have saved me a ton of money and headaches, and your videos are very entertaining. You also introduced me to Buckin's channel. Thanks Steve! You are a great man!
You're Welcome...
Thanks so much for this! It happens that my two saws are exactly the makes and models as your examples. And the Poulan is calling for exactly the inspection you describe, so super timely! This was the most useful 14 minutes I've spent in quite a while!
Right on...
Steve I think you are the best I wish I could fix weed whacker and lawnmower like you
Hay Steve I love your videos and your whole beer thing. You are a very knowledgeable person and I want to thank you for all your help,,, ok quick story family member dropped off three chainsaws so bought three carbs. Change carbs one can’t get started other runs very erratic even after tuning. Moral of story two bad pistons lol. Thanks again Steve
You're Welcome...
Extremely helpful. Thanks.
You're Welcome...
Watched this a few days too late for me (I bought a new carb which did nothing)...but great video. Far more insight than 99% of what I looked at before. Only thing I can add is hold the rope and see how slowly the saw drops - I can't even pick mine up. That will give some idea of the compression
Right on Buddy...
Thanks for all the great tips on troubleshooting small engines. I have a husky 570XP that runs fine, piston and cylinder looks fine. I was curious about compression so I got a tester... Pulled and pulled, came up zero. Thought maybe the tester was bad. I broke out my 40 year old craftsman press on tester. I was able to make 25lbs...I knew that the crank seals were good.. my suspect was the decomposition valve. I pulled it and found the rod was bent, so it would not make a solid seal. Must of been enough to run, but I’m sure it would have caused a major problem if not addressed. New valve is on order. Thanks again for the money saving tips. Guys with big saws with the Decomposition valve need to check that it is functional properly during the compression test.
You're Welcome...
....great DIY video Steve......thanks for posting....I am currently restoring a classic Stihl 026 that was never taking care of properly....I took off the muffler and looked at the piston...it has a little scuffing, but not bad and the rings are free...moveable.....I took your advice and ordered a compression gauge...waiting on delivery....I'm hoping the reading is over 100 psi, but if not, I will replace
the cylinder and piston....thanks again for a great video that gives me the confidence to do this myself...keep the videos coming.. :)
Right on Kenny!
Great videos man...I catch myself watching a lot of them here at work and even at home out in my shop while I'm tinkering around. Thanks again and keep 'em coming for us here in North Central Florida! 🍻
That is awesome!
Steve, Thanks for all the info. Now have to decide if I am going to try and repair the free! Stihl MS311 that I was given in a bucket! Really came in a 5 gallon bucket! At 79 I have time and energy to try it. Might be fun!
Go for it!
I currently have a 5 month old Husqvarna 395XP in my shop with a completely destroyed piston. Actually found pieces of the piston in the muffler. I'm pretty sure this one is worth fixing. Wrist pin needles are good, crankcase innards look and feel good.
good one Steve.....compression compression compression, #1 thing to check on any engine.....2 and 4 cycle.
Thank You...
Love your channel! "I won't mention Rick's name" haha
Thanks Buddy..
Well ... he didn't say his last name but it's a fairly small area. Still funny!
lol
Ha!!!!!!
Hii
Thanks Steve, you just verified what was told me yesterday about my remington chain saw.
Good to hear
I am presently replacing purge bulb & fuel lines on my Poulan 4018 chainsaw & I did observe the piston & cylinder through the exhaust & looks to be in good condition as you showed in your video. The pullcord test is also hard enough to pull so compression should be acceptable, but I will also look into getting a pressure gauge.
Good stuff
Your channel is the best that I've found when it comes to this!!
Right On...
Not gonna mention Rick’s name, lol..... love it...
hehe
Hahaha
This is super interesting thanks! I never understood how engine parts actually worked before this...
Glad to help!
I was given a Husky 440 chainsaw that didn't run. I checked the compression and it was only about 70 PSI. I decided I would like to try rebuilding the saw as a hobbyist project. I bought an aftermarket top-end and installed it. I still only had about 70 PSI after the new top end was installed. Is there something else that can cause low compression besides the top end (cylinder, piston, piston ring, wrist ping, and wrist pin bearing)?
Nice! My old neighbour gave me his 'old' Poulan 36cc woodshark, said it "was crap". I know nothing about saws, but free is hard to beat. And it came with a chain sharpening kit. Saw the fuel lines were cracked up. Spent 6$ and 6hrs to fix (3hrs of how to get lines through those tiny holes, 2hrs figuring out they were in wrong to begin with). Used you 'chain oil spray' test (1hr to clean the blade), now oiler works. Tensioned like you said (blade held up). Oh boy, I never checked the piston. I'm running out to the garage right now... wish me luck!
GOOD LUCK BRUTHA....
Before trying to get the hose in the holes, I make sure I have an inch or so of excess hose and garb the end and stretch it until it is slightly pointed. (Heating it helps) ,or slice the hose with a razor longways then push it far into the tank, then I am able to garb it with needle nose pliers.
I bought a very nice MS271 locally that had no compression for 100.00, found an excellent piston, cylinder and crank with very low (2) hours on ebay for 120.00 and now I have a very nice chainsaw. For a little more, I probably could have bought a used MS271 online, but then I wouldn't know it's history or what shape the cylinder was in, plus the shipping would have drove the price up. The old cylinder that I removed is probably salvageable too, so I can use it for another build. BONUS: It was fun doing the repair and it brought me satisfaction! (looks like that bad cylinder on your bench is from a MS271).
Awesome video Steve. Keep up the good work. Making the world a better place one video at a time ! Thien - From Hamilton Canada
Thanks, will do!
This is great. Appreciate the fact that I didn't know that the piston (without oil) would get hot enough to melt and bind the rings... in addition to scoring,
Right on
Gonna dive in and change the piston on my 661, which im pretty sure I cooked. Wish I had seen your video on letting the saw warm up enough before running it super hard.
Good luck!
Great video thank you! Now I know what to look for. I’m running in to the issue of my chainsaw not starting, it does when it’s choked, but when I give it gas it dies. Or it would rev real high then die. I found your other video of the “crickly” diaphragm fuel filter that I could also check.
From now on, I pop a cold one before start working on a project, cheers 🍻
I have a husqvarna 142 e series and has a scored cylinder on the exhaust side it has good compression when I pull and it always starts right away
The Walkers are absolute geniuses with engine work. Long time no see, hope all is well with you and the family Steve! Stay safe out there
very helpful, my ms250 saw has been great but now compression is bad after 5 years, think I will buy new one and keep the old one as a project saw...…… and if I can rebuild it over time, it will be a second saw, which I have always wanted.Thanks!
You're Welcome...
Steve! Like the videos. Big help. Pistons look good on my 2 saws. Stihl ms 250 and husqvarna 41. Neither is running right. Going to keep watching your videos. Thanks
You're welcome...
This is by far one of your greatest videos. Bravo!
Thank You...
🚤 Steve i do restorations on late 40’s early 50’s vintage outboard motors, whenever i check for compression on motor I give the cylinder a “light” spray of engine storage spray to lightly lube a dry cylinder that might not have been moved in over 20 years. Someone told me that would drastically affect the meter reading. I feel it will be a truer reading of the working load. I feel Im correct, am I wrong?
Aloha and thank you. Just ordered the compression tester you recommended 😊
You're Welcome...
I thought i took such good care of my little poulan pp5020av.
Nice Oregon bar and "ripping" chain.
Just a touch of nitromethane for a little more pep...
Broke her out to finally take out a pesky tree, started fine, didn't feel quite right.
Cutting the tree, it felt a little gutless.
Fresh fuel, fresh 3 capfulls of NM...
I get the tree down, sliced it up into bite size pieces.
I decide to dig into the saw, cleaned it up and looked it over, preparing to rebuild the carb...
Pulled the muffler while cleaning the wood chunks out, and i see it.
My rings and cylinder wall!
Chrome lining had some light gathering properties...
Now i wonder, am i sure i didn't pit half of the oil in the last premix fill?
Saw is cheap, looks like fun to rebuild... meh i ordered the parts!
Plenty of beer on hand to complete the job!
I think it was pretty decent of you to allow Rick to remain anonymous. Even the professionals occasionally screw up and use straight gas, and it can be an expensive mistake. I have a prominently labeled gas can so I can't mess up.
No BS, no nonsense. great vid. Thx.
Right on Ed! You're Welcome...
Thanks Steve, looking down a 266 SE right now. Fells like really low comp. but fun to fix the old one up. Cheers, Jon
Just bought the tester. Thanks Steve.
Fantastic!
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon and it confirmed what you already taught me with the compression being low on the pull. 60psi on an echo pb-2520. My echo pas-225 motor head has 135psi. Took it apart and it appears to have light scoring on the sides of the piston and a pinhole in the top of the piston. Crazy. only ran it with 50:1 but I used ethanol fuel. I've since switched to non-ethanol. Thanks so much for all you do. I've learned so much about small engines from you. Really appreciate it.
I've heard Walker's Saw Shop is legendary , I'd love to visit on vacation one day. Love your vids Steve , thanks.
Thanks buddy. Im working on a Walkers video as we speak....
I am really looking forward to a Walkers video!
Great video !! You are absolutely right 👉 if the piston and or the cylinder wall is scored up 👆 then don't bother with it unless you are going to fix that problem before you do anything else! I have a poulan just like the one you showed on here , it looks new but the side of the piston by the exhaust is slightly scored up , also have a red craftsman chainsaw just like the poulan and it cranks and revs up but low compression , and it's quirky like it don't wanna idle , then you have it on the ground after cranking it and letting it warm up , revving it up 👆 some and you pick it up off the ground to walk to the tree and it dies !!!??? I'm thinking low compression and bad crank seals or air leak at base gasket or carburetor intake boot ! Bottom line for a chainsaw to run properly the case must be leak free and the cylinder piston must be in almost brand new condition also of course the carburetor must be adjusted and working properly , sounds like a no Brainer but actually the seals can be the culprits a lot of the times ! Now for some cheap aftermarket piston cylinder kits !
Hi Steve, yes checking the compression is one of the first things to test in my Mercury Outboard service manual. It states if the compression is not correct to address it before proceeding on. That too is if the owner wants to spend the money fixing it? Good video. Cheers🍺
Thanks again Tim...
I have a Stihl 193t (with some scoring on the exhaust side) but it runs great and the compression is good. Are most scored cylinders doomed to eventually fail? Is the time to change out the piston/cylinder when the compression gets below around a 100psi?
Thank you very much. I learned a lot and it will save me time and possibly money on trying to get a 30 yr old chainsaw running.
You're welcome, and good luck...
The saw looks brand new. The pull handle does move the piston up and down. In fact, the thing tries to pull your arm out of it's socket when the cord retracts. So my next step now that it's warmer, is to give it a shot of starter fluid and try it again. But, from what I have read- if anything is subject to failure it's the "solid state" part of the saw. I'm guessing that the solid state part is the ignition. So we'll see, but I agree with you, I'm not giving up on the saw until it proves to be too expensive to repair.
Hey Steve is me again I am working on stihl 029 ( I know is an old piece of junk is just me, a 'friend' gave it tome very abuse saw )any way when I go to use a make a gasket (yamabond 4) to put the crank shaft in do I put the parts together as soon after I make the gasket on both surfaces or I wait like 24 hours until is hard, I hope you understand what I am trying to say my English is terrible,and I still like your videos is nice to learn and to have fun at the same time, and I am still only drinking one beer (cold) at once. thankyou for you patience, your videos are explain to the point .
Going to check it out I got three chainsaws won’t start oh I had it running but it just keeps it’s hard to start it you got a poor poor poor to get started
Right on
Really good video there av just done a carb partially rebuild on my 17 year old stihl 320l blower and av not checked that a never thought am learning as a go I have however checked spark so before a refit the carb am hoping it will be ok am going to get a compression tester watched a lot of videos on you tube but yours R far the best also love it wen you say any beer will do or am useing Budweiser today just great !!
Thanks very much Johnny and cheers from Canada....
Here with me in Kuwait, the situation is different as told before. I have repaired the damaged cylinder kit and made it run just by changing sometime only rings. It takes time. Here in ,troublesome customers, lack of spares are a big issue. Sometimes I have to make somethings by my own ideas.
Great video as always, Steve! hmmmm, wish I'd seen this video a week ago before ordering that full carb replacement/fuel lines (only $20 though). After pulling apart the engine, major scoring, stuck piston rings. Learned a lesson about the adequate feel of the pull rope and compression. Not fully sure why it failed, maybe raw fuel. Now, should I spend about $70-$80 on a cylinder and piston kit for a $180 tool?
I opted to replace the cylinder and piston in my Tanaka (Hitachi) weed eater. Parts were cheap enough and I figured I'd learn a thing or two even if I failed. One question I'm struggling with: Do I need to hone or otherwise prep the brand new cylinder?
Hey Steve, the guy you referred to as Rick that ran straight gas in his chainsaw and destroyed the top end. My question is. Does that generally affect the short block, crank bearing, rod, etc. Asking for a friend 😊.
Great video, thank you. Good information that will save a lot of people time and money on repairs. I will say I once got corrected sharply by pronouncing Poulan the same you do, by a guy that lived in a Poulan factory town. It's apparently pronounced "Pole-An" not "Poo-Lan".
Good to know! Thank You Frank...
My Pull-on always starts, the trick is to place it on a good solid surface grasp the handle firmly then pull violently until you start to see spots and near unconsciousness. I guarantee it fires right up everytime!
Haha, my husky 450 is like this! ☺
Really good explanation Steve on how to determine a compression issue. I really liked your informative video. Obviously you look at this from a small engine mechanic's viewpoint on what a customer should pay to repair a machine versus just buying a new one. But this video didn't really help me with what I was hoping to learn. I have a Sthil HC56C hedge trimmer. I already know I have a bad piston and I know that it is not cost effective to pay my local dealer to repair it. But I want to repair it myself. I already have the replacement piston and cylinder. I was hoping to find a video that actually shows the DIY way of replacing a piston. No knock on your video. It was great for what it was but it came up short for what I was looking for. You obviously know what you are doing! Peace Brother!
Love you work and honesty brother👍 i wont't lend my saw to Rick!
Right on
Thanks for the video Steve! But, I am wondering are there other reasons a cylinder can get scored (other than using no oil in the gas)?
What an awesome question Tony! I am going to work on a video for that now. Few reasons off the top of my head are----dirt ingestion, cutting with a dull chain, air leak, (cold seizure) not warming it up! Plugged exhaust etc.... Thanks for the video idea my friend....
#1 is lean seize failure...guys lean out the fuel mixture at the needle valve to get more power....when they take the seized saw to the Dealer...they usually say..."It was running pretty darn good, right before it quit"....
OVER HEATING ENGINE TO MANY TIMES, USE TO HOT SPARK PLUG, EXSESSIVE HOURS OF USE, BLOWN HEAD GASKET FROM OVERHEATING, NOT OILING OIL FILTER OR CLEANING ENOUGH, CHEAP BLOCK ALUMINUM METAL FROM FACTORY.
I have a Poulan Blower, and the first one went bad when the cylinder screws came loose, so I check them twice a year when I do maintenance. My new one had loose screws that I didn't catch in time, and my question is: The piston and cylinder don't look scored or bad at all, but there is carbon on the sides of the piston, and the ring (it only has one) is stuck in the piston resulting in only 60 lbs compression, and I use new, quality gas and oil. Since I recently bought a new ignition coil and carb, can I get away with replacing the ring and gaskets only, or should I replace the piston?
Stihl 017 does not start looks like its flooding out. i checked the compression with 6 pulls it has 100 psi not sure if it is worth a new carb? looked at cylinder wall and piston look good tho. Steve thanks for the info...
Great job and presentation, but four strokes need compression also if the valve seats are toasted or the cylinder is scored the engine will have low compression and will have low power or won't run. I don't need to tell you just shouting out. Keep the vids comming love them very informative.
Very true. The reason I said this doesn't apply to four strokes is because if you pull the muffler off and look inside, you cant see the piston. You will just see the exhaust valve! I definitely could have been more clear on that. Oh well, I live and learn....
Steve's Small Engine Saloon well after I hit send it hit me and I realized that's what you meant to say. Lol. Great info though. Wish I had the tall pines like you have on the west coast up there well I should say the island .. Have a great day
Can you use a compression tester made for automotive or do you need one made for small engines
First thing I do is grab the pull cord and lift the unit and let it hang, it should pretty much hang off the pull cord. If it doesn't there is compression issues.
LOL Gary, I almost put that in the video! Should hold its own weight....good rule of thumb. Thanks for commenting on that, awesome.
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon my 61 husqvarna can't and has 149psi but it pretty heavy so i would have to say with the exception of some older saws like my 61 I really love your videos your one of the best small engine guys to watch☺☺
Do saw manufacturer's make oversized pistons - so you can bore a scored cylinders?
These videos are gold
Thank You...
I love your videos. I have a Husqvarna 125b blower. Won't start. I can see a few score marks on piston. Ring on piston is still good. Can this be saved or need a new kit.
Happy belated birthday sir!! Humbly thanking you for these!!
Steve, I need an honest opinion, I have reached out to stihl and mtd in the past about problems with parts (new) and been blown off, the old "we haven't heard of any issues" type responses. anyway I figured I'd get an honest answer from you if you've experienced this. I put new piston and rings in a stihl ms311 and ms 391 (same series of saw) after cleaning up and honing the original cylinder. NEITHER worked would start once, then not again. well, I swapped out carburetor, coil, gas, cuss words, etc, and NOTHING. so I took a Sunday (quiet. nobody else in the shop type thing) and got really personal with the 391. come to find out the new rings were stuck in the piston. everything was clean upon assembly, still looked clean, but the rings were stuck. I had used bar oil for assembly lube, I've just switched to 2 cycle oil. so I rubbed the rings on sandpaper, and also run some sandpaper in the ring grooves, cleaned the hell out of everything again, and reassembled. it worked and is running now. so today, another Sunday, I did the same to the 311. same thing, stuck rings. did same thing cleaning it all up again, and now it seems fine. my question- is there any issues of the OEM stihl piston/rings sets for those series of saw? I've done at least 50 in the past. never had an issue (even when I used the cheap chineese stuff) but now I've had TWO, and they were the same series of saw. stihls fault or mine?
the best way i find testing for compression and easiest for everyone is just grab the pull start of the machine and pick it up by only the pull start handle only. dont yank the pull start. the machine doesnt drop or start cycling strokes, for sure i can tell that it has good compression. if not, the handle cant pick it up or cycles through strokes it tells me that it has bad compression. 2 symptoms i know the cause of bad compression is that ether the customer had be mixing improper mixture (less oil) or they have had overheated the engine by not checking to cleaning air filter, anything clogging air from pull start vents to arround sleeves on the cylinder or also happen to overheat and score the piston by reving the saw without putting a load on it
G
I've saved money and equipment through my learning career, Thanks!
Excellent!
A big thank you, you save me Time and a lot of money. Your explainations are very clear.
You're Welcome...
I had a piston get it's ring's stuck and had some ALU stuck to the cylinder Wall I used acid to remove the aluminum from the cylinder Wall and got a new piston, it was not a friendly EPA piston. Cost was about $40.00, now the saw has more HP, the saw was just over a year old and cost $350.
Awesome!
What if the cylinder and piston just has light scratches can it be saved or to the scrap yard it goes??
Hi steve can you tell me what the best replacement piston would be for a ms661 chansaw. I see two brands Dule and Meteor?
Thanks
Darn, my 10 year old Ryobi RCS3535CA chainsaw is finally toast :(. Seemed to going well until it just stopped halfway through a log cutting session. Changed the fuel, cleaned the carb, then replaced the carb, still no joy. Watched this video, figured out how to remove the muffler (2 hidden bolts) and "low and behold": scored piston visible through the exhaust port :( Perhaps I didn't mix the Oregon 2-stroke oil into the gas in the gas can sufficiently; or perhaps it just got too hot; or perhaps it didn't care for Oregon 2-stroke oil (I normally use one of those little Stihl plastic ampules) although I used the same fuel in my old Stihl strimmer/weedwacker, without problem so far. Thanks Steve, at least I finally know that it is time to move on - battery chainsaw perhaps. Oregon CS300 perhaps?
Thanks very much for this video Steve. Was very helpful in more than one diagnosis. Thanks again for putting it up and spending your time !
You're Welcome...