Learning a lot from watching these builds, Walt. Thanks for filming and sharing them! Still not sure that I understand the advantage of the no-base-gasket approach.
No base gasket when it can be done....and that's not always the case; does a few things. First reduced the volume of the combustion chamber at TDC. That increases compression. More compression mean a more efficient burn. Also because of the reduced "squish" distance, Squeezing the fuel from the squish band INTO the combustion chamber means more of the mix actually does get burned. Both means more power. Lowering the cylinder .020 also slightly alters the port timing. Adds a degree or two to the duration the intake port is open...that usually is a good thing although there is definitely a point of diminishing returns with intake duration. And lowers the top of the exhaust port so the "pressure" from combustion has a few more degrees of rotation to push the piston. Again there is a point of diminishing returns there....but a .020 change won't get you there. Both the compression increase and the increased time under pressure help power at lower RPM's so a saw with that mod usually makes power a little sooner or lower in the power band. Neither will increase RPM or HP on top so its a pure torque gain. And on most (not all) 372's its a noticeable one.
Hey Man,....love it, looks like something I'd try to salvage... kind of new to youtube and the forums, lots of catchin up to do....lol. Thanks for the videos, Kev
I pray to God that all chain saw makers and engineers watch your channel! Can you explain removing the divider on the air inlet side? what benefits do I get if I do that? does it bring more cooler air into the intake? I always felt my x torq ran hotter than my non x torqs but dont cut any faster. the only benefit is the x torq uses less gas.
Speaking of squish, just doing one now that had only .030 stock squish. took 20 thou off the deck with the bridgeport, and cut a popup of 010. ....would have been no good with a gasket delete... fyi it IS a 2010 chassis, and the bearings DO have metal cages. I didn't change the bearings. interesting
Wish I had info to know by serial number or year which ones were more likely to have nylons. I've done the .010 popup on a no base gasket build too as the squish was a bit tight stock. Actually like that build better than a straight "deck" build. Think about it for a second....:)
Might be an interesting business concept to get a run of pistons that are .020 too tall and then measure & cut the piston to fit with a popup. Wonder if our over seas contacts could bring the cost into something doable. :) MAYBE when I retire and have time.....
Were buying if they are matched materials (like the mahle sets) dealing with those dissimilar metal expansion rate possible seizure scenarios makes for a long lived saw... Love the porting polishing advice btw and those 50mm popups' are awesome and a pathway to a powerful saw. We just want to see 94cc's of brute reliability on a Alaskan mill. I hope I made the right decision on the 2018 395xp as a good chassis to start with. Thanks Walt for all your wisdom.
Three questions. 1. What brand file did you use? I'd like to get a nice flat file like that. 2. That little O ring on the crank when you pulled it out, wth is that? Is that normally inside the bottom end and not accessible? 3. Do you have to be real careful what depth you set either bearing into the case or just shove em in till they stop? Same with crank?
I only use Nicholson files, the ones made in USA. The O'ring Part# 503263019 is between that sleeve Part# 503779101 and the bearing on the PTO side. Can get to it pulling the bar oil pump, worm gear, then the sleeve. Can then pick it out. Bearings seat to the bottom of their respective pockets from the inside, and they HAVE to bottom out for the crank to be centered in the right position. Care has to be taken when seating the PTO side as the case/bearing pocket isn't very strong on that side. Why I use a turkey roaster at 300 degrees Fahrenheit to both remove and then drop the bearings in the pockets on saws that really count with Nachi, SKS or equivalent quality 6202c3 steel caged bearings.
No, but the NEW X-Torq cases will work on any of the original edition 365/372's. Just can't put the XT cylinders on the Original Edition cases. Covered that in detail on several video's.
Walter, I don't know how I missed this video for 5 days! What exactly is the difference between the Jonsered 2166 and Husqvarna 372xp? I got that 2012 2166 and you said to me before that it more than likely has the nylon bearings. How much would you charge to replace them, no base gasket build, with porting and polishing and the timing changed with a change to 372xp build on my Jonsered 2166?
2166 is really identical. I just did one actually along side this saw as I have a Huztl XT top end to try.....its going to get seriously tweaked though. For me to replace bearings and seals on a fully assembled saw is a couple of hours. Maybe three if there are complications. Usually two. As I'm really not going to be set up as a business until next year or so, I rather swap for parts or junker project saws that would fit the channel profile or help with one of the upcoming projects. Headed towards more late model stuff like 550's and more seriously tweaked 562's 390's and yes X-tork 372's. I am going to swap the bearings on my 2013 2172 in a video I think to show folks the Jonsered side...Converting the transfer covers is another 1/2 hour maybe 45 minutes to remove grind and reseal on the cylinder. The "no base gasket" doesn't cost a thing, and the gutting of the intake parts another 1/2 hour. The muffler mod can take an hour. Add it all up and multiply by a relevant shop's time and that's the value. Really YOU might be better off just doing it when shipping is added! :) A more practical approach is maybe send me striped cases, bearings, case gasket, and an interesting part or piece for a project saw as payment. I'll split the cases and pop the bearings in and assemble the cases & send it back. You do seals up reassembly and what ever tweaks. That becomes more reasonable and is down in the "hour" territory. I don't have to worry about down stream support from so far away as it would keep me up nights. Locally I've done stuff like a person or shop gives me a pile of interesting junk, I hand back enough fixed saws to make it worth it to them. That's How my saw collect has exploded. Sometimes its two saws to get one back, I keep stuff and hand back one fixed...when they are clean & complete. Sometimes its boxes of junk to make it worth a saw. Like those 254's....now I have a PILE of junk! Have to pick through and see what's worth keeping and what gets scrapped. Hoping for a saw from that pile! As for measuring porting & finishing.... that really depends. I don't believe polishing is worth the time. As on these XT's we are already adding all that carburetor size. That makes the system want to rev......so have to replace the ignition to take advantage of anything more done there. I'm not sure I would go that route to be honest. I plan to do things to build more power back into the stock 13K range on my build's; would "blend" or radius the edges of the bottom of the transfers, add a little intake duration and leave it with the stock ignition for a work saw. Might even go further with compression and lower the cylinder and do a pop up.....but that is for another video! Its what's going to happen with the Huztl.
Truthfully the real problem I have is time. Between the farm, my real job and the saws I'm doing now ... I'm booked until mid winter at a minimum. I can't make commitments I can't keep, just not hard wired to do that. :( And I really like to be close to my project saws which is why I've kept them all local.
@@afleetcommand at 3:35 -all the ones on ebay are like the one on the left, the samller round one and not the split port one on the right. So I am wondering HOW they can be for the XP as they have listed?
Interesting about the crank bearings. Did they upgrade to all steel? I picked up a 365 special, guy said it ran 10 years ago until it wouldn't start one day. I imagine just the carburetor. It's a 1999 model and I'm wandering if it has those nylon cased bearings. What do you think? Great video.
afleetcommand I have a husqvarna 338xpt top handle that needs a crank the end broke off on the clutch side. Would you have one or now which one that may work in it. Or an old you may want to get read of. Thanks David.
@afleetcommand Hey walt. Don't you have a hydraulic press? I picked up a 20 ton from Harbor Freight for about 150 bucks. Love it works great for a lot of things!
Good video, very interesting to see other makes models of saws broken down. There seems to be lots of case splitter's listed on EBay. Does your case splitter do many sizes of saw? Or do you have quite a few? I'd like to get the one listed for the MS660, hoping it would do all the way down to the MS260
Maybe Machinerypartstore, Huztl watch your videos and read the comments. Did another search on ebay today and the listings show; fits Husqvarna and STIHL models including 026 to 066. I was going to make one but for the price on ebay, it's not worth the effort. Slowly putting together a 56mm MS660 with 75% Farmertec parts. Just finished rebuilding an 021 with an aftermarket 025 complete engine from Leourparts on ebay and am just amazed how well it starts and runs, just like new. Keep posting! Enjoy watching your videos. An update on the MS660 would be good, when you get chance.
that saw might run stronger and last longer than a brand new one. they put those nylon gaged bearings in the turbo's on the 11'-14' ford powerstroke. some trucks are running longer than others. But I think the problem can be speeded up with 14,000 rpms on those nylon gaged bearings.
Problem is heat and then coking / carbon build up along with the nylon becoming brittle because of the heat. Either issue is death to the cages. RPM's might contribute to the heat... those X-Torq's are ignition limited to 13300, I set them at 12900-13000. The ones set at that under 13k no load reference RPM almost never fail. :)
walt question. you have any luck with the aftermarket clutch and oil pump on the xtorq?i picked up a 372 xtorq today cheap and the clutch is trashed and possibly oil pump.thx.
It's really not bad and will add years of useful life if you have an older one and catch it before it looks like the one in the video. Putting a good steel caged bearing and a few little tweaks turns that saw into a reliable beast.
Maybe....before going crazy pop a seal out and take a peek if you are nervous. Even some in the target years had steel caged bearings...just a supplier thing I guess.
I own a tree service on upper midwest, it's pretty much stihl country around here and I need to ship my huskys off to get worked on. I was wondering if you could post your email so I could contact you and see if you are interested in working on mine. Thanks, Thim
Thank you for the consideration, but I'm back logged with work for most of the year. Also I don't work on saw unless they are local, can be carried in by their owner. I simply don't have the band width to handle an on line business.. Thanks again asking, I do have to decline though.
Two sets of case offerings, there are the "new" design with a goofy new bar oiling channel and the old conventional cases. The old ones are now dwindling but while they are still available....should be able to get them for under $200 bucks.
Uncle Walt! Has Husqy addressed this issue yet???????? I just bought that 395xp and I am past my 1 week return period even though I have not run the saw yet.... Why would Husqy keep building failure prone Expensive machinery? You would think the engineer's would want to be here watching you fix their mess! I hope they are watching... I hope their shareholders are watching people considering going with another saw mfg to get away from what the auto industry would have recalled and now existing lemon laws are supposed to protect unwitting consumers from a bad experience loss of $ and a loss in time. Frown generating experience...............
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! uncle walt you just stopped my cold sweats! i was worried my saw was fudged from the factory! now what can we do to improve this platform- we are all ears! thanks again blessings and aloha Walter- td @@afleetcommand
No! that's what came out of there, its thick like a normal chain oil so I assume it was...LOL(Considering the condition of the REST of the saw...u NEVER know!)
It IS red..:) So....I wonder if that wasted Top end has good cylinder walls....if it does...might be a candidate to cut the top off as its obviously wasted...:)
Of course it would be easier with a MILL. But I think I can chuck the cylinder on an arbor and first cut away enough fins to get access...then use a cut off tool. THEN take a chunk of aluminum and first turn in a combustion chamber then Cut the out side to fit in the cases...but then there are the cooling fins.. :( not exactly lathe work. Might buy a "mill" attachment for the old lathe for kicks...or just "saw" them in rough and hand die grind to acceptable.
I’m all about a little piece of window glass and a spritz of water and a sheet of 220 and a work my case haves on my flat lap or redneck flat plate… worked in a boatyard down in north Florida in the 90’s and my engine building guru would oil up his concrete block and work those outboard heads right to flat in a jiffy… make’s all the difference in the world to hit the sink with some Dawn dish soap in my mind… I’d definitely much prefer to be my super anul retentive self and have everything squeaky clean then to assemble a new engine with the grit that will help it being it’s savage self consumption…on those one’s that have started transferring I’ll clean up the aluminum and I’ll also thoroughly scrub everything underneath hot water and degreaser then I’ll air blast and PB Blaster to make sure I’m removing the moisture and I might just toss everything onto a sheet pan and toss it into my 225 degree oven for a warm up and then cool down so it’s in that low humidity environment for a nice little visit… then I use a little 2 stroke mixture to clean off my PB Blaster and begin the assembly process… I coat the piston and cylinder internals with Amsoil engine builders lube bearings and big end crank bearing all git a little Amsoil builders lube… I want everything coated with a good layer of lube while it’s getting to know it’s new surfaces and that mixed gas will have time to get everything good and coated on that initial run… I’m a definite 32:1 I want to feel and see a film of oil inside any and all engine’s that I’m going to be using. I’ve watched my friend who operates a tree removal business constantly pay to get his saw’s repaired and replaced every couple of years because he’s dumping his little bottle into his can and he’s putting in 2.5 gallons or more… because that’s what the Stihl dealer told him to do! This year I’ve been hammering him about his lack of oil in his equipment and I’ve fixed several of his saw’s and he’s slowly starting to listen… he was running an 088 on 50:1 with a 42” 404 setup! It’s crank bearings were seized up… the saw’s stopped oiling…I was just looking and the oem is $165 for the new oil pump assembly… with the Farmertec clones introduction I’ve convinced him that we need to try the $60 dollar aftermarket option and I’m happy that he’s going to give it a chance… 👍😁. That’s for another awesome video!
Thanks for sharing all your expertize on these huskies, very helpful and awesome tips. Greetings from Sweden!
Learning a lot from watching these builds, Walt. Thanks for filming and sharing them! Still not sure that I understand the advantage of the no-base-gasket approach.
No base gasket when it can be done....and that's not always the case; does a few things. First reduced the volume of the combustion chamber at TDC. That increases compression. More compression mean a more efficient burn. Also because of the reduced "squish" distance, Squeezing the fuel from the squish band INTO the combustion chamber means more of the mix actually does get burned. Both means more power. Lowering the cylinder .020 also slightly alters the port timing. Adds a degree or two to the duration the intake port is open...that usually is a good thing although there is definitely a point of diminishing returns with intake duration. And lowers the top of the exhaust port so the "pressure" from combustion has a few more degrees of rotation to push the piston. Again there is a point of diminishing returns there....but a .020 change won't get you there. Both the compression increase and the increased time under pressure help power at lower RPM's so a saw with that mod usually makes power a little sooner or lower in the power band. Neither will increase RPM or HP on top so its a pure torque gain. And on most (not all) 372's its a noticeable one.
Thanks for that nice explanation, Walt - I get it! Until yesterday I didn't understand 'Squish' either, but do now. My education continues!
Hey Man,....love it, looks like something I'd try to salvage... kind of new to youtube and the forums, lots of catchin up to do....lol. Thanks for the videos, Kev
Good Advice and video. Thx.
Thanks for sharing brother
base gasket elimination increases compression so does that help boost torque or hp?
That's a loaded question because HP = ( Torque x RPM) / 63025 :)
I pray to God that all chain saw makers and engineers watch your channel! Can you explain removing the divider on the air inlet side? what benefits do I get if I do that? does it bring more cooler air into the intake? I always felt my x torq ran hotter than my non x torqs but dont cut any faster. the only benefit is the x torq uses less gas.
Need to get time on the concept..:) I dropped a clue in the video though.
Speaking of squish, just doing one now that had only .030 stock squish. took 20 thou off the deck with the bridgeport, and cut a popup of 010. ....would have been no good with a gasket delete... fyi
it IS a 2010 chassis, and the bearings DO have metal cages. I didn't change the bearings. interesting
Wish I had info to know by serial number or year which ones were more likely to have nylons. I've done the .010 popup on a no base gasket build too as the squish was a bit tight stock. Actually like that build better than a straight "deck" build. Think about it for a second....:)
Might be an interesting business concept to get a run of pistons that are .020 too tall and then measure & cut the piston to fit with a popup. Wonder if our over seas contacts could bring the cost into something doable. :) MAYBE when I retire and have time.....
Hehe
Were buying if they are matched materials (like the mahle sets) dealing with those dissimilar metal expansion rate possible seizure scenarios makes for a long lived saw... Love the porting polishing advice btw and those 50mm popups' are awesome and a pathway to a powerful saw. We just want to see 94cc's of brute reliability on a Alaskan mill. I hope I made the right decision on the 2018 395xp as a good chassis to start with. Thanks Walt for all your wisdom.
Three questions.
1. What brand file did you use? I'd like to get a nice flat file like that.
2. That little O ring on the crank when you pulled it out, wth is that? Is that normally inside the bottom end and not accessible?
3. Do you have to be real careful what depth you set either bearing into the case or just shove em in till they stop? Same with crank?
I only use Nicholson files, the ones made in USA. The O'ring Part# 503263019 is between that sleeve Part# 503779101 and the bearing on the PTO side. Can get to it pulling the bar oil pump, worm gear, then the sleeve. Can then pick it out. Bearings seat to the bottom of their respective pockets from the inside, and they HAVE to bottom out for the crank to be centered in the right position. Care has to be taken when seating the PTO side as the case/bearing pocket isn't very strong on that side. Why I use a turkey roaster at 300 degrees Fahrenheit to both remove and then drop the bearings in the pockets on saws that really count with Nachi, SKS or equivalent quality 6202c3 steel caged bearings.
Quick question are the cases on a x-torq the same as non x-torq. Because my cases are bad on my non x-torq and I can get x-torq cases
No, but the NEW X-Torq cases will work on any of the original edition 365/372's. Just can't put the XT cylinders on the Original Edition cases. Covered that in detail on several video's.
Watching youre chanel for some time ,and have learning a ton .
Thank you for your time,frend, hello from Serbia,stay good...
Awesome video, thanks again :)
Walter, I don't know how I missed this video for 5 days! What exactly is the difference between the Jonsered 2166 and Husqvarna 372xp? I got that 2012 2166 and you said to me before that it more than likely has the nylon bearings. How much would you charge to replace them, no base gasket build, with porting and polishing and the timing changed with a change to 372xp build on my Jonsered 2166?
2166 is really identical. I just did one actually along side this saw as I have a Huztl XT top end to try.....its going to get seriously tweaked though. For me to replace bearings and seals on a fully assembled saw is a couple of hours. Maybe three if there are complications. Usually two. As I'm really not going to be set up as a business until next year or so, I rather swap for parts or junker project saws that would fit the channel profile or help with one of the upcoming projects. Headed towards more late model stuff like 550's and more seriously tweaked 562's 390's and yes X-tork 372's. I am going to swap the bearings on my 2013 2172 in a video I think to show folks the Jonsered side...Converting the transfer covers is another 1/2 hour maybe 45 minutes to remove grind and reseal on the cylinder. The "no base gasket" doesn't cost a thing, and the gutting of the intake parts another 1/2 hour. The muffler mod can take an hour. Add it all up and multiply by a relevant shop's time and that's the value. Really YOU might be better off just doing it when shipping is added! :) A more practical approach is maybe send me striped cases, bearings, case gasket, and an interesting part or piece for a project saw as payment. I'll split the cases and pop the bearings in and assemble the cases & send it back. You do seals up reassembly and what ever tweaks. That becomes more reasonable and is down in the "hour" territory. I don't have to worry about down stream support from so far away as it would keep me up nights. Locally I've done stuff like a person or shop gives me a pile of interesting junk, I hand back enough fixed saws to make it worth it to them. That's How my saw collect has exploded. Sometimes its two saws to get one back, I keep stuff and hand back one fixed...when they are clean & complete. Sometimes its boxes of junk to make it worth a saw. Like those 254's....now I have a PILE of junk! Have to pick through and see what's worth keeping and what gets scrapped. Hoping for a saw from that pile! As for measuring porting & finishing.... that really depends. I don't believe polishing is worth the time. As on these XT's we are already adding all that carburetor size. That makes the system want to rev......so have to replace the ignition to take advantage of anything more done there. I'm not sure I would go that route to be honest. I plan to do things to build more power back into the stock 13K range on my build's; would "blend" or radius the edges of the bottom of the transfers, add a little intake duration and leave it with the stock ignition for a work saw. Might even go further with compression and lower the cylinder and do a pop up.....but that is for another video! Its what's going to happen with the Huztl.
Truthfully the real problem I have is time. Between the farm, my real job and the saws I'm doing now ... I'm booked until mid winter at a minimum. I can't make commitments I can't keep, just not hard wired to do that. :( And I really like to be close to my project saws which is why I've kept them all local.
I have a question how would the crank seal opening get loose on my 372 x torq ?
They do when the bearings fail and beat open the bearing pockets. typically on the PTO side.
@@afleetcommand thanks that is exactly what my saw did , now do i want to get a crank case half or sell for parts
Just wondering-most all xp kits on ebay show the round port and not the split port. So are they not really xp's? I got two 372xp's I need to fix.
Not sure what you are asking..what is a round port vs. split port? I did a video covering all the different permutations of 372's might start there.
@@afleetcommand I was under the impression the xp had a divider in it's port and the regular 372 does not.
@@pl747 ruclips.net/video/bRp1_q0V1og/видео.html
@@afleetcommand at 3:35 -all the ones on ebay are like the one on the left, the samller round one and not the split port one on the right. So I am wondering HOW they can be for the XP as they have listed?
@@pl747 ruclips.net/video/OgeidMe-vz8/видео.html
For flattening cases, diamond plate?
I have a flat plate & stone from a Q&A operation for a machine shot. With 600 grit it work excellent :)
no rtv on the case gasket?
It has the 1184 treatment :)
what size tube did ya use for the muffler?and did ya close off the oem opening?thx
I use 3/4 if the oem is open and 1in if I close it off
Interesting about the crank bearings. Did they upgrade to all steel?
I picked up a 365 special, guy said it ran 10 years ago until it wouldn't start one day. I imagine just the carburetor. It's a 1999 model and I'm wandering if it has those nylon cased bearings. What do you think?
Great video.
Most prior to 2010 were steel caged, all after are nylon
What years where the nylon bearings used? My 372xp is from 2010
I see them all years unfortunately. Chances are you have them...but at this point if they haven't failed, there is some comfort in that right?
Where did you get the tool to press the case back together?
my dealer lets me buy shop tools...it was around 40 bucks
Is there any way I buy a few from them? You can email me at smithd388@gmail.com
afleetcommand I have a husqvarna 338xpt top handle that needs a crank the end broke off on the clutch side. Would you have one or now which one that may work in it. Or an old you may want to get read of. Thanks David.
No I don't have one, Just go to your local dealer, that saw is still supported and parts available
Mohu se zeptat jaký hořák používáte?
ruclips.net/video/gIBQIJEN27k/видео.html
Jump to minute 18, I use a turkey roaster :)
whent hot, why it can't pull start, whent cool, it easy to pull start? husq 240
@afleetcommand Hey walt. Don't you have a hydraulic press? I picked up a 20 ton from Harbor Freight for about 150 bucks. Love it works great for a lot of things!
I do, but would never use a press on those soft metal aluminum or magnesium cases :)
Good video, very interesting to see other makes models of saws broken down.
There seems to be lots of case splitter's listed on EBay. Does your case splitter do many sizes of saw? Or do you have quite a few? I'd like to get the one listed for the MS660, hoping it would do all the way down to the MS260
It handles most of the older Huskys
Maybe Machinerypartstore, Huztl watch your videos and read the comments. Did another search on ebay today and the listings show; fits Husqvarna and STIHL models including 026 to 066. I was going to make one but for the price on ebay, it's not worth the effort. Slowly putting together a 56mm MS660 with 75% Farmertec parts. Just finished rebuilding an 021 with an aftermarket 025 complete engine from Leourparts on ebay and am just amazed how well it starts and runs, just like new. Keep posting! Enjoy watching your videos. An update on the MS660 would be good, when you get chance.
Actually posting some pics of what you are building would be interesting to me as well...:)
This guy is bad Ass in my book
that saw might run stronger and last longer than a brand new one. they put those nylon gaged bearings in the turbo's on the 11'-14' ford powerstroke. some trucks are running longer than others. But I think the problem can be speeded up with 14,000 rpms on those nylon gaged bearings.
Problem is heat and then coking / carbon build up along with the nylon becoming brittle because of the heat. Either issue is death to the cages. RPM's might contribute to the heat... those X-Torq's are ignition limited to 13300, I set them at 12900-13000. The ones set at that under 13k no load reference RPM almost never fail. :)
walt question. you have any luck with the aftermarket clutch and oil pump on the xtorq?i picked up a 372 xtorq today cheap and the clutch is trashed and possibly oil pump.thx.
Never used those parts AM for the Husqvarna's
I have one of these. Not looking forward to replacing the bearings.
It's really not bad and will add years of useful life if you have an older one and catch it before it looks like the one in the video. Putting a good steel caged bearing and a few little tweaks turns that saw into a reliable beast.
BTW the later ones already have the steel caged bearings. 2014 on I think. So a non issue for most out there.
+afleetcommand thanks. Mine is from 2012, unfortunately. Guess I'll plan to do the bearing swap.
Maybe....before going crazy pop a seal out and take a peek if you are nervous. Even some in the target years had steel caged bearings...just a supplier thing I guess.
+afleetcommand thanks, I'll do that.
I own a tree service on upper midwest, it's pretty much stihl country around here and I need to ship my huskys off to get worked on. I was wondering if you could post your email so I could contact you and see if you are interested in working on mine.
Thanks,
Thim
Thank you for the consideration, but I'm back logged with work for most of the year. Also I don't work on saw unless they are local, can be carried in by their owner. I simply don't have the band width to handle an on line business.. Thanks again asking, I do have to decline though.
not expensive? I priced one half of a case here and it was $400. not sure why such a gap in cost, but lucky you
Two sets of case offerings, there are the "new" design with a goofy new bar oiling channel and the old conventional cases. The old ones are now dwindling but while they are still available....should be able to get them for under $200 bucks.
Uncle Walt! Has Husqy addressed this issue yet???????? I just bought that 395xp and I am past my 1 week return period even though I have not run the saw yet.... Why would Husqy keep building failure prone Expensive machinery? You would think the engineer's would want to be here watching you fix their mess! I hope they are watching... I hope their shareholders are watching people considering going with another saw mfg to get away from what the auto industry would have recalled and now existing lemon laws are supposed to protect unwitting consumers from a bad experience loss of $ and a loss in time. Frown generating experience...............
They did, it was only the 372's in the 2010 to 2012 era..
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! uncle walt you just stopped my cold sweats! i was worried my saw was fudged from the factory! now what can we do to improve this platform- we are all ears! thanks again blessings and aloha Walter- td @@afleetcommand
Just watched video love confederate RailRoad an patsey playing in the back ground.
atf for bar and chain oil? thats cute
:( :(
No! that's what came out of there, its thick like a normal chain oil so I assume it was...LOL(Considering the condition of the REST of the saw...u NEVER know!)
+afleetcommand it looked red!
It IS red..:) So....I wonder if that wasted Top end has good cylinder walls....if it does...might be a candidate to cut the top off as its obviously wasted...:)
Of course it would be easier with a MILL. But I think I can chuck the cylinder on an arbor and first cut away enough fins to get access...then use a cut off tool. THEN take a chunk of aluminum and first turn in a combustion chamber then Cut the out side to fit in the cases...but then there are the cooling fins.. :( not exactly lathe work. Might buy a "mill" attachment for the old lathe for kicks...or just "saw" them in rough and hand die grind to acceptable.
I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me!
I’m all about a little piece of window glass and a spritz of water and a sheet of 220 and a work my case haves on my flat lap or redneck flat plate… worked in a boatyard down in north Florida in the 90’s and my engine building guru would oil up his concrete block and work those outboard heads right to flat in a jiffy… make’s all the difference in the world to hit the sink with some Dawn dish soap in my mind… I’d definitely much prefer to be my super anul retentive self and have everything squeaky clean then to assemble a new engine with the grit that will help it being it’s savage self consumption…on those one’s that have started transferring I’ll clean up the aluminum and I’ll also thoroughly scrub everything underneath hot water and degreaser then I’ll air blast and PB Blaster to make sure I’m removing the moisture and I might just toss everything onto a sheet pan and toss it into my 225 degree oven for a warm up and then cool down so it’s in that low humidity environment for a nice little visit… then I use a little 2 stroke mixture to clean off my PB Blaster and begin the assembly process… I coat the piston and cylinder internals with Amsoil engine builders lube bearings and big end crank bearing all git a little Amsoil builders lube… I want everything coated with a good layer of lube while it’s getting to know it’s new surfaces and that mixed gas will have time to get everything good and coated on that initial run… I’m a definite 32:1 I want to feel and see a film of oil inside any and all engine’s that I’m going to be using. I’ve watched my friend who operates a tree removal business constantly pay to get his saw’s repaired and replaced every couple of years because he’s dumping his little bottle into his can and he’s putting in 2.5 gallons or more… because that’s what the Stihl dealer told him to do! This year I’ve been hammering him about his lack of oil in his equipment and I’ve fixed several of his saw’s and he’s slowly starting to listen… he was running an 088 on 50:1 with a 42” 404 setup! It’s crank bearings were seized up… the saw’s stopped oiling…I was just looking and the oem is $165 for the new oil pump assembly… with the Farmertec clones introduction I’ve convinced him that we need to try the $60 dollar aftermarket option and I’m happy that he’s going to give it a chance… 👍😁. That’s for another awesome video!