Hey Mark I have had my 65 Lemans for 37 years. I stated working on it during covid. I am learning lots watching your content and just wanted to say thank you.
Very true except for some big well known brands. You end up paying 20 to 30% more for their name on the can and I have never been impressed with their stuff. Mark
The epoxy I used seemed to sand about the same as what you’re using. Also if you’re ever tired of breathing that dust you can get a pretty inexpensive vacuum sanding block (3M) and dust collector (just a fancy shop vac). Helps prevent clogging too.
Why are you wanting your epoxy primer to be sandable? My understanding has always been to use the epoxy to seal everything and protect it from moisture, then apply a high-build primer over it for blocking and leveling. Why use an expensive epoxy to do what cheap primer does better?
Using the same material is preferred if possible as they expand and contract at the same rate, coats adhere better, shrinkage rate on epoxy is much lower than filler primers, sand throughs exposing bare steel are easily sprayed over and epoxy is more durable. If you think about it epoxy will be some of the least expensive material I use for the importance it has to the project. Mark
I will be watching to see what you actually paint over… paint right over epoxy? Hopefully when you paint you will mention what you painted over, what it was sanded to, and how long it dried before you sprayed over it. 😊
@@shep145 I will most definitely show everything Jason. So many omit or gloss over some of the most important stuff since it is not very exciting. Letting catalyzed materials out gas and shrink is important for a great finished job.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Did you decide what products you were going to use after epoxy for this build? I keep going back and forth on my latest project. Its in bare metal now. I was considering doing everything in epoxy but I really hate doing a final sealer.
@@shep145 I will be using epoxy all the way to the base coat unless the paint rep has something that is superior to epoxy by then but I doubt it. I shouldn't need a sealer and will apply the base coat right over the epoxy but I will double check with the paint rep before that happens.
Great video Mark. You answered my questions about primers for sure. It’s likely that this is what I’ll use on the ‘49. Thanks for the honest product evaluation. It’s super helpful.
Thats a great looking primer! Another good epoxy primer that I've used is from SPI (Southern Polyurethanes inc). It's also sands out nicely and they have great customer service too. I also like their urethane 2k primer surfacer as it had very little to no shrinkage. I enjoy watching your channel.
Mark, I first started using epoxy primer over 20 years ago on my 55 Ford pickup. Up until a couple years ago I didn't know you couldn't sand it! Dang you RUclips. 😂😂 Thanks for the video, I was wondering if it was going to work like the rep said.
I hear you on that. Part of the reason I started the channel was to show the real deal on body and paint. It isn't rocket science but knowing what to use and when is very important. Mark
Hey Mark great video. Been watching you for awhile now. I remember epoxy was not meant to be sand or it would gum up on you. I've sprayed PPG for over 18 years, I went from collision to customs/restorations. I have sprayed epoxy that you can sand. PPG has one called CRE that comes in grey, black and I think white. The other one I sprayed more often is PPG VP 2050 only comes in grey. What is great about these two is not only are they epoxy but a high build which makes them a hybrid epoxy primer. The big difference between the two is VP2050 is a little more expensive than CRE. How long have you been using Martin Senour paints? I used them back in the mid 90s when I started paint which was acrylic enamel then base coat clear coat. Last time I sprayed Martin Senour was 2000. Pretty cool to actually see Tec/Base lol.
@@careygale2315 Thanks Carey. Yes epoxy has come a long way. I did a video on DTM and Epoxy and then tested the tech prime epoxy and it sanded great. I sprayed PPG for years and years and loved it. I have been spraying Napa/Martin Senior for about 7 years. My buddy runs the paint store so he is a valuable resource. I really like their Elegance clear, pricey but sands and polishes beautifully. I am getting a hang of this stuff. What is your current project?
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication oh nice. I wouldn't know Martin Senour materials anymore. It's always seemed a little weird to me that when I mentioned Martin Senour to people they never heard of the paint. I bet they have come a long way since I last spayed it! My current project is to finish up my shop. My own personal body shop and see if I can turn it into a small business. As a vehicle project it's my 1992 s10 that I have had since I was 15. I dropped a 383 stroker into it, and back half with a 4 link and air suspension. That's as far as I got with the truck, and I did all that 23 years ago and 24 years ago I painted it and now that I am getting my shop put together I plan on finishing up the front suspension then going to strip all the paint off and start all over. Then use the truck as an advertisement for my shop. I grew up in Southern Alaska in Ketchikan. I lived there for 38 years. I got into painting by spraying helicopters then moved into collision then moved to California and got into customs and restorations. Now living in South Carolina to start my own thing with all the skill I have and see what happens
@@careygale2315 Pretty adventurous life you have lived. Yeah everybody knows the big names in automotive paint but there are a ton of them out there (at least the ones that haven't been bought out by the big boys) Martin Senior has a solid paint line for body shops. If my buddy didn't manage the store I might not have ever sprayed much of it. The real money is in light collision repair and blending. In and out of the shop quick with a nice payday. Restoration work or custom work can be a money maker but it is not easy. My only advice is be trust worthy and build a reputation. I get emails all the time wanting me to finish projects other shops ripped them off on or they have been working on it for 20-30 years and just want it finished. All of them mention one thing. They want someone they can trust since there are so many corner cutting, shady work shops out there. Setting up an Instagram for your shop will help get the word out. Best of luck and send me pics of the S10 so I can showcase them at the end of a video one day.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication yes I do agree a lot of small body shops and brands are be bought out by franchises. It's good some haven't sold out. I do agree there are a lot of good products out there still. I do have Instagram which does help out especially for people that are looking for good work. I do agree about being honest with customers about the work that is going on especially showing the work in progress with videos and pictures. As soon as I start working on my truck I can send progress pictures
@@ericmallow9650 150 grit reduces sand scratches and does a good job in testing the epoxy for sandpaper glogging. Blocking out with 80 grit is my usual first grit on primer, 40 on filler.
Ive alwasy used kd3000 surfacer/sealer epoxy it saves me alot of steps... but i have a car comming up that dosnt need poly surfacer so i may use spi surfacer to try my hands at a urathane ... kind of oppisite of what most have already done lol. Anybody with experince of spi and its build properties?
I have sprayed tons of polyester primer but it has been years since I sprayed a urethane. Products change so quickly it is hard to keep up sometimes. Maybe someone can chime in that has used the SPI brand.
Hey Mark I have had my 65 Lemans for 37 years. I stated working on it during covid. I am learning lots watching your content and just wanted to say thank you.
You are very welcome. This is why I started the channel to help others with their projects. How is your project coming along?
Mark
Great techniques and evaluation of the product. Thank you.
Thanks Charlie, Just wanted to share what I learned to get some up to date factual information out there.
Mark
Thanks Mark. As usual I learned a lot. When it comes to pait you get what you pay for. Thank you for your time.
Very true except for some big well known brands. You end up paying 20 to 30% more for their name on the can and I have never been impressed with their stuff.
Mark
Mark another great video. Thanks for showing how you worked the edges of correct the highs and lows. Ruby is coming along well.
Thanks Ron, it is really tempting to just turn the block and sand them out but it will show later and we can't have that for Ruby.
Mark
The epoxy I used seemed to sand about the same as what you’re using. Also if you’re ever tired of breathing that dust you can get a pretty inexpensive vacuum sanding block (3M) and dust collector (just a fancy shop vac). Helps prevent clogging too.
I have seen those vacuum sanding blocks, seems like kind of a hassle.
Sanding and dust is all part of the process.
Why are you wanting your epoxy primer to be sandable? My understanding has always been to use the epoxy to seal everything and protect it from moisture, then apply a high-build primer over it for blocking and leveling. Why use an expensive epoxy to do what cheap primer does better?
Using the same material is preferred if possible as they expand and contract at the same rate, coats adhere better, shrinkage rate on epoxy is much lower than filler primers, sand throughs exposing bare steel are easily sprayed over and epoxy is more durable.
If you think about it epoxy will be some of the least expensive material I use for the importance it has to the project.
Mark
I will be watching to see what you actually paint over… paint right over epoxy? Hopefully when you paint you will mention what you painted over, what it was sanded to, and how long it dried before you sprayed over it. 😊
@@shep145 I will most definitely show everything Jason. So many omit or gloss over some of the most important stuff since it is not very exciting. Letting catalyzed materials out gas and shrink is important for a great finished job.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Did you decide what products you were going to use after epoxy for this build? I keep going back and forth on my latest project. Its in bare metal now. I was considering doing everything in epoxy but I really hate doing a final sealer.
@@shep145 I will be using epoxy all the way to the base coat unless the paint rep has something that is superior to epoxy by then but I doubt it. I shouldn't need a sealer and will apply the base coat right over the epoxy but I will double check with the paint rep before that happens.
Sounds like you're going to like that product. That's good it met your expectations from your vendor!
Yes it did. I will get the specs and price on the urethane primer and decide where to go from there.
Mark
Great video Mark. You answered my questions about primers for sure. It’s likely that this is what I’ll use on the ‘49. Thanks for the honest product evaluation. It’s super helpful.
You are very welcome Robert. Glad it was helpful.
You are a real pro Mark! I like your attention to detail on explanations 😊JR in🇨🇦
Thanks JR, I try my best so others will have the confidence to do their own projects.
Mark
Using a guide coat will help you considerably
Thanks I use dry guide coat all the time just not on the initial blocking.
Thats a great looking primer! Another good epoxy primer that I've used is from SPI (Southern Polyurethanes inc). It's also sands out nicely and they have great customer service too. I also like their urethane 2k primer surfacer as it had very little to no shrinkage. I enjoy watching your channel.
Thanks, I will check it out. It may not be available here though.
I appreciate the recommendation.
Mark
Mark, I first started using epoxy primer over 20 years ago on my 55 Ford pickup. Up until a couple years ago I didn't know you couldn't sand it! Dang you RUclips. 😂😂
Thanks for the video, I was wondering if it was going to work like the rep said.
I hear you on that. Part of the reason I started the channel was to show the real deal on body and paint. It isn't rocket science but knowing what to use and when is very important.
Mark
Hey Mark great video. Been watching you for awhile now. I remember epoxy was not meant to be sand or it would gum up on you. I've sprayed PPG for over 18 years, I went from collision to customs/restorations. I have sprayed epoxy that you can sand. PPG has one called CRE that comes in grey, black and I think white. The other one I sprayed more often is PPG VP 2050 only comes in grey. What is great about these two is not only are they epoxy but a high build which makes them a hybrid epoxy primer. The big difference between the two is VP2050 is a little more expensive than CRE. How long have you been using Martin Senour paints? I used them back in the mid 90s when I started paint which was acrylic enamel then base coat clear coat. Last time I sprayed Martin Senour was 2000. Pretty cool to actually see Tec/Base lol.
@@careygale2315 Thanks Carey. Yes epoxy has come a long way. I did a video on DTM and Epoxy and then tested the tech prime epoxy and it sanded great. I sprayed PPG for years and years and loved it. I have been spraying Napa/Martin Senior for about 7 years. My buddy runs the paint store so he is a valuable resource. I really like their Elegance clear, pricey but sands and polishes beautifully. I am getting a hang of this stuff.
What is your current project?
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication oh nice. I wouldn't know Martin Senour materials anymore. It's always seemed a little weird to me that when I mentioned Martin Senour to people they never heard of the paint. I bet they have come a long way since I last spayed it! My current project is to finish up my shop. My own personal body shop and see if I can turn it into a small business. As a vehicle project it's my 1992 s10 that I have had since I was 15. I dropped a 383 stroker into it, and back half with a 4 link and air suspension. That's as far as I got with the truck, and I did all that 23 years ago and 24 years ago I painted it and now that I am getting my shop put together I plan on finishing up the front suspension then going to strip all the paint off and start all over. Then use the truck as an advertisement for my shop. I grew up in Southern Alaska in Ketchikan. I lived there for 38 years. I got into painting by spraying helicopters then moved into collision then moved to California and got into customs and restorations. Now living in South Carolina to start my own thing with all the skill I have and see what happens
@@careygale2315 Pretty adventurous life you have lived. Yeah everybody knows the big names in automotive paint but there are a ton of them out there (at least the ones that haven't been bought out by the big boys) Martin Senior has a solid paint line for body shops. If my buddy didn't manage the store I might not have ever sprayed much of it.
The real money is in light collision repair and blending. In and out of the shop quick with a nice payday. Restoration work or custom work can be a money maker but it is not easy. My only advice is be trust worthy and build a reputation. I get emails all the time wanting me to finish projects other shops ripped them off on or they have been working on it for 20-30 years and just want it finished. All of them mention one thing. They want someone they can trust since there are so many corner cutting, shady work shops out there.
Setting up an Instagram for your shop will help get the word out.
Best of luck and send me pics of the S10 so I can showcase them at the end of a video one day.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication yes I do agree a lot of small body shops and brands are be bought out by franchises. It's good some haven't sold out. I do agree there are a lot of good products out there still. I do have Instagram which does help out especially for people that are looking for good work. I do agree about being honest with customers about the work that is going on especially showing the work in progress with videos and pictures. As soon as I start working on my truck I can send progress pictures
Nice information ill have to check on that product thanks again
Thanks Chris, several out there that are similar. If you didn't see it I did a video on DTM and Epoxy and what to look for
Mark
I feel you my brother
I'm confused why are you using 150 grit? And you can use bondo or glaze over the epoxy to fix the imperfections and then just re coat.
@@ericmallow9650 150 grit reduces sand scratches and does a good job in testing the epoxy for sandpaper glogging. Blocking out with 80 grit is my usual first grit on primer, 40 on filler.
Ive alwasy used kd3000 surfacer/sealer epoxy it saves me alot of steps... but i have a car comming up that dosnt need poly surfacer so i may use spi surfacer to try my hands at a urathane ... kind of oppisite of what most have already done lol. Anybody with experince of spi and its build properties?
I have sprayed tons of polyester primer but it has been years since I sprayed a urethane. Products change so quickly it is hard to keep up sometimes. Maybe someone can chime in that has used the SPI brand.