WLToys 12428 Servo Upgrade
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- MY OTHER 12428 VIDEOS
Link to the speed run video - • Brushless WLToys 12428...
Link to Custom Front Shock Tower video - • Custom Front Shock Tow...
PARTS USED IN THIS VIDEO
Tactic TSX45 Servo - www.amazon.com...
Aluminum Servo Horn - www.aliexpress...
Servo Tester - www.aliexpress...
OTHER UPGRADES
Hobbywing Sensored 10BL60/3650 Combo (10.5 turn option) - www.aliexpress...
Heatsink+Fan for 540 Size Motor - www.aliexpress...
Austar AX5S Transmitter/Reciever - www.aliexpress...
EMAX ES9258 Steering Servo(the only available 3 wire servo that fits stock servo bracket without adjustment) - www.aliexpress...
Aluminum Steering Rack - www.aliexpress...
Turnbuckles (rod ends are junk) - www.aliexpress...
RC4WD M3 Rod Ends For Turnbuckles(cut/sand to length) - www.amazon.com...
Front RCAWD Oil Shocks (rod ends are weak use rod end from stock shock) - www.aliexpress...
Rear Injora Oil Reservoir Shocks (100mm option, and replace rod ends with Traxxas 2742X) - www.aliexpress...
Aluminum Front Arms/Knuckles/Hubs - www.aliexpress...
Aluminum Rear Trailing Arms - www.aliexpress...
Front Driveshaft (stock replacement not upgrade) - www.aliexpress...
Metal Rear Drive Shaft (only drive shaft I've found that holds up, all others I've tested are pure junk) - www.aliexpress...
Metal Differential Gears - www.aliexpress...
Metal Spur Gear - www.gearbest.c...
Metal Pinion Gear 17t - www.amazon.com...
Aluminum Wheel Hex’s - www.aliexpress...
Wheels (get wider offset hubs) - www.aliexpress...
Wider Offset Hubs (22mm black option) - www.aliexpress...
Tires(Injora super swampers, option A) - www.amazon.com...
Lipo Alarm (simple) - www.aliexpress...
I used a slash servo on my 12429 it’s the exact same chassis different body I’m half way thru my build!!
Great video
I have a 20kg OMG servo I bought for 30bux and it absolutely loves it
Thanks for good video. What about stearing (blue metal) component. I think It's weakest part in this model. It jams very quickly. Are there any alternatives to it?
Hello, have done the same type of install, used the original servo from a traxxas trx4, figured it would be more than enough for this little thing, also swapped stock esc and motor for the stock trx4 one, actually turned out pretty good! But back to my question, I left the original Wltoys plastic servo saver, depending on the surface, if the saver is to loose the wheels turn poorly don’t respond accordingly with the throw of the servo, and if I tighten it to much, the wheels turn according to servo throw but sometimes don’t return to center accordingly because the saver locks up. Question is can I just forget the saver, you setup doesn’t have any servo saver, figure with the reduced weight of the car and being the servo kind of overkill for this car their should be no problem running without the saver?! What’s your opinion on this?
Hello there. What size of tire you put in this buggy,i am planning to change mine also. Thanks
If you want to remove all the slack in the front end,try aluminum tubing and make bushing ,yes you must Redhill screw holes to fit tubing
Also use a piece of soda can in center steering link miner filing needs done too,be care how much you file off.
You will understand once you try it
I am using a custom 3d printed steering rail with a 25kg servo. Does de metal rail works well? Also does the super swampers works week when you turn? Because I have them on my crawler and they are very soft. I am using a more rigid tires in the wl and they bind a lot when I turn.
Hugo Rosales - Meh, the metal steering rack works good but not great. It had binding issues with the 3kg servo I started with, but that may have had to do with how i had everything set up. The 9kg servo has no binding issues with the steering rack but I found that the steering rack assembly has some slop in it that transfers all that slop to the steering. I’ve been trying to figure out a way to get rid of all the steering slop but so far I have not come up with a solution. As for the Swampers yea they did real good lasted forever super soft rubber so great grip but even though they were so soft they managed to not get torn up. They did a great job but I just replaced em for something a little smaller and a little more rigid because I felt the Swampers just ballooned too much for my taste.
Do u know why my servo arm touches the bar under the front suspension on my 10428?
Sorry I have the 12th scale don’t know anything about the 10th scale 10428 really. Wish I could help.
Great video!
How does the body/rollcage fit after this install?
I have some wheel wobble. I realize the steering is a little sloppy but I'm wondering if upgrading to the alumin. hubs and carries fixed the wheel wobble on yours or if it greatly improved it? It appears on mine the wheel wobble was from side to side of the wheel. It appears it the main culprit is the poor tolerances of the stock plastic hub carrier and or poor tolerance of the cheap chinese bearings? any info you can give on how to improve this would be appreciated. I'm not trying to make it perfect I just was wondering if changed out the hubs and carriers to alum. it would greatly improve?
AMW 47 - The stock plastic steering knuckles have the plastic little arms that the steering links attach to and those bend quite easily which seems to greatly affect the steering. The metal steering knuckles will alleviate that issue but then you can come across some other issues like bad/weak threading for the screws, poor tolerances not allowing bearings to seat correctly, and the new knuckles completely changing the geometry of the front end so the old links won’t be the right length so that you need to buy/make adjustable turnbuckles. These are all issues I had to deal with but the flex in the plastic knuckles was just too much to the point where everything would flex under heavy acceleration with my brushless system so I feel like the aluminum upgrade was kinda a necessity especially if you have a brushless power plant or stronger steering servo like me. But when it comes to the sloppy steering a lot of that comes from the sliding steering rack system and I ended up completely removing that system and custom fitting a bellcrank system off of another RC car into this 12428. That ended up removing almost all the slop in the steering but honestly the car still seems to wander around so I’m just not sure there is anything you can do to fix the steering on these things to track fully straight without relying heavily on steering compensation from a gyro enabled receiver. Maybe because there is still vertical slop in the knuckles which is probably what you are referring to as “wheel wobble” but honestly it’s probably just that it’s a small car with a short wheel base and at high speeds any small input of the steering is gonna send it veering off pretty quick so unless you can take absolutely all the slop out of everything(which is probably impossible) the car might just not have much hope for goin straight? Dunno just a theory but I feel like I’ve done everything possible to get it to run as straight as my Slash or my Outcast but the lil guy just wants to wander around. I did make a video on the bellcrank steering install also which I will reply again with the link and that video has a clip of this car going straight with the gyro enabled and also shows the car still wandering around with the gyro off.
AMW 47 - here is the link to the video installing the bellcrank steering - ruclips.net/video/UJY6T67oAlg/видео.html
@@AszBall Thanks for the info. I'm going to order new front sealed bearings anyway. That may help clear up some of the wobble. Great job again on all your mods!
Your brace that use to hold the stock shocks are different than mine. Mine is still the stock plastic one. And it's flat. Yours is angled up before the steering arm and servo saver. Where did u get that piece from?
Jerickson Dale - I used the shock tower for the WLToys a959, a smaller RC car made by he same company as the 12428. There was also a decent amount of custom work to go along with converting the front shocks to a tower system and I made a video on everything you have to do to convert your 12428. The links to the shock tower will be in the video description of my custom shock tower video. Here is he link to that video if you are interested in doing the same. ruclips.net/video/0S1ve-__EMA/видео.html
Hey with the front shocks, do you need to upgrade them if you replace the front steering and suspension with all metal parts? I replaced everything but the shocks and the truck sits fine but won’t spring back up when I press down. Everything is loose not over tight.
Chad D - If you have the shocks in the stock configuration it’s going to sag and not spring back even with new shocks. This is why I changed the setup completely and put in a shock tower. After I made the shock tower swap the suspension worked as it should and stopped getting stuck. I explain all this and show how I made the shock tower in another video and here is the link if you decide you want to go that route. “Custom Front Shock Tower For WLToys 12428” ruclips.net/video/0S1ve-__EMA/видео.html
Thanks! I watched the video. Good tutorial. Just ordered myself a shock tower.
I mounted the tower and it broke on the first run. No big deal though. I got the upgrade shocks a day later. They work great in the stock position on mine. I had all metal linkage rods and they turned out to be crap. The balls pop out of the sockets easy. Ended up staying stock on those with no breaks. If I had to start over I’d only upgrade the front a arms and hubs. And only upgrade the shocks if the arms sag lower than parallel. The stock servo is fine for driving around outside but I don’t know about staying on a track.
Chad D - yea the rod ends on the “upgraded” turnbuckles are crap but i ended up using better rod ends and even created my own rod ends out of the old links and just used the threaded rod from the turnbuckles as you can see in this video. All the green rod ends you see are all the old links that I chopped the ends off and drilled out the center to make custom rod ends. RCAWD also makes a good M3 rod end that you just have to cut down to size.
K Yammo thanks I’ll try those if mine break.
Was it a problem going from the stock 5 wire servo to a standard 3 wire?
Josh Wideman - well generally if you’re upgrading one of these you are gonna gut the electronics which is what I did so no I did not have an issue because I replaced the ESC/motor and got a new receiver/transmitter but if you are trying to just upgrade the servo with a 3 wire and not replace the original ESC that I don’t think is possible. If you’re looking for a good 3 wire servo that fits the original 12428 bracket I just uploaded a good video on one. The servo is the JX PDI2506MG I’ll reply again with the video link.
Josh Wideman - Here is that link - ruclips.net/video/-iQHIWrVM_Y/видео.html
Good video friend! I also have a wltoys! I hope to change your electronic components soon! New subscriber friend! Regards! LIKE