Вобще мыть можно спокойно, тем более есть загрязнения которые растворителями не вымываются, после мытья плату нужно хорошо просушить или промыть раствором абсорбирующим влагу. Но то что он тут исполняет это угар, на похер выпаивает элементы, чето в плату тыкает непонятным паяльником, тут скорее всего чел просто задом наперед снимает реставрацию. Тем более он ее так помыл что она все равно сгниет + видно что многие дорожки посгнивали.
nice repair that helps to save the enviroment ... but this India style plug is as dangerous as USA/Japan plugs ... 220V & 350 Watte are absolutely OK with a real Europlug (max 2.5 Ampere = 550W at 220V) with partially insulated contacts
What happened to the large new blue component that you added to the motherboard.When you reassembled it,it was gone.What looks like the original black one was in its place?
You successfully repair this amp, but I am questioning your procedure, that looks unsafe : 1. You should NEVER turn on an unknown condition amplifier, without connecting a 100 to 200 Watts bulb in series with the mains. The bulb will light at full brightness if there is a dead short. Somewhere around mid-brightness in case of excessive current drain. If everything is normal, the bulb will come on for a few seconds and then extinguish or stay on with a very weak and THEN, you can remove the bulb after you made sure everything work as expected. 2" After repair, you assembled everything right after repair. No mistake, so, everything works, fine ! BUT, what is, if one component that tested ok on bench, get intermittent when the amp gets warm ? Before closing the box, you did NOT check the output transistors bias current and DC offset at speaking terminals. It should be somewhere between -20 to +20 mV. Despite the marking, that say : "Professional Stereo Digital Echo Mixer Power Amplifier", this is DEFINITELY NOT professional stuff. Real professional equipment as XLR type, input connectors and much larger wires power transformer. On the back panel, I read 150 Watts per channel ? Really ??? I JUST DON'T BELIEVE IT ! Maybe peak, for a few microseconds, but not RMS. I would call it lying advertising.
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Good job 👏
In every videos, I do like the way he THUMB UP 👍... 😂
Good Luck Uncle! Thanks so much for your useful technique.
Maravilhoso!
u r a professional >> i enjoy watching
Ok....❤❤❤.
Four power transistors are missing from the heatsink! Does it work that way?
Here we go again famaliar looking dirt, must of been found in the back rice patties.
Сейчас бы в мыльном растворе мыть платы..... Доброе утро епт "электронщик"
Вобще мыть можно спокойно, тем более есть загрязнения которые растворителями не вымываются, после мытья плату нужно хорошо просушить или промыть раствором абсорбирующим влагу. Но то что он тут исполняет это угар, на похер выпаивает элементы, чето в плату тыкает непонятным паяльником, тут скорее всего чел просто задом наперед снимает реставрацию. Тем более он ее так помыл что она все равно сгниет + видно что многие дорожки посгнивали.
Make sure it is plugged in first ..
what solution are you using to clean the circuit boards I have a old pioneer SA 7500 that the pre amp board had a capacitor leak all over
Интересно а как дешевле от реставрировать или купить новый?
nice repair that helps to save the enviroment ...
but this India style plug is as dangerous as USA/Japan plugs ... 220V & 350 Watte are absolutely OK with a real Europlug (max 2.5 Ampere = 550W at 220V) with partially insulated contacts
Good morning po Sr San po Banda Location nyo papagawa po Ako mixer Saka Amplifier.
It's better to put whole board in whashing machine
А что так можно было !
修理这些一定很难
What happened to the large new blue component that you added to the motherboard.When you reassembled it,it was gone.What looks like the original black one was in its place?
Thank you !!!
😂😂😂
Por qué nada más le dejo 4 transistores?
You successfully repair this amp, but I am questioning your procedure, that looks unsafe :
1. You should NEVER turn on an unknown condition amplifier, without connecting a 100 to 200 Watts bulb in series with the mains. The bulb will light at full brightness if there is a dead short. Somewhere around mid-brightness in case of excessive current drain. If everything is normal, the bulb will come on for a few seconds and then extinguish or stay on with a very weak and THEN, you can remove the bulb after you made sure everything work as expected.
2" After repair, you assembled everything right after repair. No mistake, so, everything works, fine ! BUT, what is, if one component that tested ok on bench, get intermittent when the amp gets warm ? Before closing the box, you did NOT check the output transistors bias current and DC offset at speaking terminals. It should be somewhere between -20 to +20 mV.
Despite the marking, that say : "Professional Stereo Digital Echo Mixer Power Amplifier", this is DEFINITELY NOT professional stuff. Real professional equipment as XLR type, input connectors and much larger wires power transformer. On the back panel, I read 150 Watts per channel ? Really ??? I JUST DON'T BELIEVE IT ! Maybe peak, for a few microseconds, but not RMS. I would call it lying advertising.
abureală????