Thank you! Check out the hot water system FAQ video. Although it’s not an installation video, it may answer any questions you may still have. I’m trying to organise an installation video - stay tuned! All the best! 😊👍
I have the Glind system set up on my car with the two hose connections plumbed to the front of the bull bar. In between the two connectors is a marine switch to turn on the pump. This eliminates having to lift the Bonnet. People who own these systems are always under the impression they have to run the motor while they have the shower. This is not true. You can heat the water first. What I do is, using two short hoses I heat the water up in my shower jerrycan first. I have a thermometer dropped in it that has an alarm set at my desired temperature, which for us is 45°C. The wife loves a very hot shower so she goes first and then by the time I go in the water has dropped that little bit which suits me. While the water is heating I set up the shower pole at the front of the bull bar. I prefer the shower at the front of the car so it’s not soaking the ground around the door areas. Once the water reaches the desired temperature, the alarm goes off. I then turn the pump off and the car off and swap the two short hoses for the shower hoses. The water temperature only drops minimal by the time you’ve had your complete shower. It’s a way better experience having a shower without the motor running. You can enjoy the tranquility of the bush. If we need privacy I have a pop-up ensuite that just clips onto the front of the bull bar. We’ve had this system on the car for about 12 years now. In my opinion, these are by far way superior than any other shower system. No matter what the weather conditions are you’ve always got a hot shower. All the bulky componentry’s are under the Bonnet and out of the way.
I purchased mine from Glind here in Australia. I actually liked their product so much, I asked if I could become a reseller, which I now am. If you are in Australia, you can purchase from 4xAdventures.com.au. Same price as the Glind web site. If you are in the US, I’d recommend purchasing from Glindhotshower.com as you would save on postage & currency conversion.
That is a nice install, simple, efficient & elegant, does away with the overheating issues that others complain about with the Glind system, a temper valve just makes it simpler & better. Love the pop out shower cubical as well. I will look into that pressure piping for my install as I just scored a full Glind system in a case for free today.
Thankyou! I don’t make the heat exchanger, but I liked the idea so much I have eventually become a reseller of the Glind heat exchanger. You can check out 4xAdventures.com.au for more details if you’re interested. I’m still working on how to sell all these bits as a kit, but it’s quite difficult as every car is different. All the best! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures I am trying to work on a slightly different system, I am not sure if I am wasting my time or not, but I am looking at having a hot water storage tank, and the heat exchange would be like a coil running through that tank. My theory was I could have 20l of hot water stored. Too much for just one but I camp with the whole family often. The problem is where to put a tank in an overland vehicle. I would imagine your system may require an engine running if I was to shower a bunch of people?
Yes, it’s fine for a while with the engine off, but eventually you would lose heat. Your best option is to get yourself a Duoetto electric hot water heater. They have 10L and 6L versions. They are excellent. If you look at my plumbing, just replace the heat exchanger with the electric water heater - you can still use the temper valve & pump and it will work perfectly well. With 10L you should easily be able to shower 4 people. I will hopefully list their products for sale on my website soon. 😊😂
Awesome job mate. Definitely be using your system and ideas for my van conversion. I really have no idea why this hasn't taken off in the van community
This is great! I'm in Nashville, TN and am building out a 2020 Tacoma Off Road. I just found my shower solution. Thank you for taking the time to make this video and post it.
Hey Joey! Thanks very much for watching! I’m glad you found it useful. I’m sure you will be satisfied with this solution. I’d love to see the completed Tacoma - they are great vehicles!! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures Is this the correct exchanger? glind.com.au/store/heat-exchangers/glind-auto-marine-heat-exchanger/ Model SKU: GL27 Auto and Marine. I'll for sure share some pics when its completed!
Yes, that’s the one. Glind has a US distributor. Check the video description for the link. That may save you international currency & shipping fees. :)
@@4xAdventures Would the SEAFLO water pressure pump Model : SFDP1-070-060-53 do the trick? Also, if its not too much trouble, can you tell me what model temper valve you decided on? Thank you very much for your time and knowledge.
Like many others who have replied, thanks for this really clear explanation of your clever hot water set-up. I've had a Glind exchanger sitting in the shed for a while now as I haven't been too sure how to best set it up. Now I do. I've subscribed and look forward to watching more of your videos. Thanks again.
Bloody brilliant, well thought out and hassle free. the only improvement I could think of is a foot operated trigger for the water allowing hands free washing.
Thanks for that, I had that idea in my head, happy to hear the tempering valve cuts the mustard for temperature control, far better than the gas systems I've seen, Im in the process of doing up my FJ too, space is an issue their LOL Thanks for your input on all your ideas fantastic job. Andrew and Janey in WA
4xAdventures definitely going ahead👍, contacted Berrima Diesel today. They no longer install heat exchange so I may need to rely on you for my VDJ79 build 🙏🏼🤞
Been looking for something exactly like this for awhile now. Great video, and very informative. The diagram at the end just topped it off. Thank you!!!
@@4xAdventures I'm not sure I'm smart enough to build it myself lol but I checked out glinds site after watching this and they sell a kit that comes with everything needed. I might just go that route
Thanks for the great information. I’m halfway through fitting a Scintex 30 plate heat exchanger to my FJ. I’m now going to incorporate a temper valve and the JG piping.
No problems! I haven’t seen that heat exchanger before. I’ll check it out. Re. The pump, just make sure you use a pressure sensing pump, otherwise you won’t get enough pressure to make things work properly! Good luck!! 😊👍
Yes, it isn’t the cheapest solution, but it works really well & should last as long as the car does. And no hassles with lugging showering contraptions around with long setup times. I think this is a great solution :)
Appreciate you putting the effort into helping others, thanks. Just what I was searching for ! Great job, very efficient system! You should get it patented sir!!!!!
Great video, love the idea of the JG Speedfit. How did you connect the Speedfit to the glind heat exchanger? Also how has the speedfit been with vibrations etc?
Thankyou! The Glind heat exchanger has barb connectors on it, so I am using a short length of hose to go from that to a barb-JG connector. But, I’ve spoken to Glind, and they will be offering a choice of barb or JG connections on the heat exchanger!! It’s been rock solid over the past few years. The speed fit connections are designed to just get tighter if you try to pull them apart without first pushing together and depressing the outer ring, so they can’t come apart. Very clever design! 😊👍
You may have been asked already. Is that small pump able to self prime and pump water up a long hose placed in a river or external water supply? I can understand pumping from the tank, not being far from the pump and also being slightly elevated, but down to a river is hard to imagine. Good job, nice setup.
G’day John, This depends entirely on the pump used. Some pumps will actually publish the incline and distance that they are able to pull water up on the inlet side. I have tested this particular pump with a 10m hose and that works ok, however the incline will ultimately determine how effective it is. I haven’t tested it with a steep drop as yet - simply because I haven’t yet had the need or circumstances arise. I don’t have the booklet that came with the pump with me at the moment, but when choosing a pump, look for the ratio 1:xx for the incline on the input side if this is likely to be important to you. You can always just take a collapsible 10L bucket with you and fill it up from the river and the pump it in from next to the car. All the best! 😊👍
Great Video!! I just recently discovered your channel and I think it is one of the best overlanding channels out there!! This idea for hot water is brilliant. I am going to set this up on my rig. Thank You!!
Will the tempering valve stop the water flow out the mix output if the water temperature is under the set temperature or only if it is over the set temperature and not able to get cold water through to mix it? Meaning if the vehicle is not hot enough to enable the heat-exchanger to provide hot enough water for the tempering valve setting. Otherwise you could still waste plenty of water if you did not run the vehicle long enough before using the shower. Great set up by the way.
Thankyou. Yes, you are correct, the temper valve is designed to stop the temperature getting above the set threshold, but it will let colder temperatures through. I’m using a scangauge which is connected to the OBD port. It shows the engine water temperature, so I can tell by looking at that - but also just experience will allow you to gauge what the resulting output will be. But, you can always just leave the engine running and all will be good! 😊👍
Wow dude. This is a genius concept. I love the simplicity and efficiency. I have a few questions if you'd have a moment- How cold can this run? Theoretically if I drained the entire system if I knew it was going to get cold could I still use this in the Rockies during winter? I'd like to try and insulate my tank in the back of my Subaru Forester where my spare currently sits. Then run the shower and pump. Hit a cutoff valve to the tank and then pump the remaining water out of the system. Just wondering what your take is on winterizing and if this is a feasible idea.
Thanks very much! Depending on the type of temper valve you have, you can vary the temperature as much as you like. So, re. How cold it you can make it, you can essentially make it the same temperature as the source (tank, bucket, river) and then introduce hot water into the mix by varying the temperature via the temper valve. Check out the FAQ video to this which might answer some of your questions. I live in Australia, so don’t have any experience with a cold climate, but it is definitely possible to turn off the water at your tank and then to let the pump drain whatever is left in the hoses. Even if you partially drained it, that would be enough to stop the water freezing & cracking the pipes. So yes, that would definitely work! All the best! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures SWEET! You are the absolute man! Thank you for the feedback. Im giddy to try this out. Random question for your expertise: Im tossing this in a 2018 Subaru Forester. Im need to insulate my water tank somehow and im thinking of putting it in where my spare currently is and somehow insulating the shit out of it. I saw your episode on a 12v blanket.... trying to scheme out a way to make it possible to keep the tank warm. Any ideas on placement or any methods of keeping it from freezing?
Maybe you could post a materials list in your description of this video or your faq video with all the parts you’ve used in this build. This would be very helpful.
Thankyou! The schematic near the end of the video is about as complicated (simple) as it gets. I’m planning another video (just as soon as I get time) of an installation end to end, so that should answer any questions you may have! 😊👍
Hi I’ve watched this video about 6 times already and love your set up. I also have a 2012 FJ and need to build the same system for our trips. Do you have a breakdown of parts or are you making them for people?
Hi there. There is an FAQ video which should explain any questions you still might have. Also, check the video description as I have listed the main components and where you can purchase them from. If you have any questions after that, let me know. All the best! 😊👍
I’ve got a companion aqua cube lithium and I spent two weeks away over Christmas everyday and it never let me down, in my opinion better than a heat exchanger
I also have a Coleman hot water on demand, which is similar to what you have. Every product has its strengths & weaknesses. I’m glad you’re satisfied with your product. The reason I decided to make my own hot water system is because i wasn’t satisfied with the Coleman unit. It was incredibly wasteful with water, and it took ages to set up - lots of clutter & paraphernalia. I think if you’re staying at one camp site for a few days, then it’s fine to set it up & leave it, but I was after something that was simple, quick to setup & efficient with water. So I think I’ve improved on my old Coleman system, which I found to be a hassle. But, to each their own! 😊👍
I really like what you have developed. We are fitting out a van and think this could be ideal as a hot water system. Where are you located as we would appreciate you assistance in setting it up.
Thanks for sharing this video it was very informative. I have a hino truck and have been doing some research on shower systems and this one looks the best. Would it be possible to build some like this to fit a light truck? And Would you still consider building something like this for me?
Hi Cameron, thanks very much. As long as there is room in the engine bay to mount the heat exchanger, this would work with any petrol/diesel engine. I’m planning on having an end to end installation video up at some point so that people can follow along and build their own - it’s not hard, but can take some extra time if a mounting bracket needs to be made, radiator hoses sourced etc.
Hi Cherie, thanks very much :) The FJ’s are pretty limited for space. In Australia, they came standard with a 159L fuel tank, so there is no room underneath for water. I have a 22L water tank built in behind the drivers seat. (See my FJ build video for more details). Hope that helps!! :)
Great video, thanks for sharing. I’m thinking of an Isotemp heat exchanger tank for my sprinter campervan. My question is, how long does the coolant stay hot enough to have a shower after you’ve stopped driving? I’m in the UK, so no 40° days here. Lol.
G’day Ben, Thankyou, and thanks for watching!! I actually answer this question in the follow up video. It’s too long to type the full answer here, but check out the “frequently asked questions” video first, and if you still have any questions, let me know! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures Thanks for that. I’ve just watched the FAQ’s video. I’m still swayed towards the Isotemp slim square with the 16 litre tank. Just to keep it simple for my wife and kids to use. I would definitely go for your system if it was just myself. I’ll look forward to your installation video though, before I make a decision.
Top stuff! I have an fj too. I have relocated my power steering fluid to where you have the heat exchanger. I wonder if I have enough room to fit one, I am in Sydney and would be keen to get your help to make one.
Great system - I think you've solved the only real hassle I have had with a heat transfer shower system....by using the temper valve ! Brilliant ! I take it that the one pump can generate enough pressure to impel the water in 2 streams, one to the heat exchanger and the other to the temper valve ?
G’day Denis, yes, you’ve got it! water source > pump > splitter. 1 path to heat exchanger > hot input of temper valve. The other path to cold input of temper valve. Mix output > shower rose/tap. Mine has evolved a bit beyond that now. I have a choice of inputs now & a few other tweaks, but that’s the basic flow.
Hello, I am thinking about expanding on what you have installed here, by running the system in the back of a Troopy. My thought would be to put a Tee in to the engine coolant system in the engine compartment, put a bypass near the firewall to minimize the chance of springing a coolant leak while in motion (by closing the system and isolating it to the engine bay area), then extending the coolant lines to the cargo area of the Troopy, where I would mount the heat exchanger, pump and valve, etc all close(r) to the water tank, sink and shower setup. I think some thought would have to go in to insulating the lines, so as not to overheat surrounding components, etc along the way to the cargo area. Based off your experiences with your system, do you see any issues with what I have described? Thanks in advance for your time!
G’day Brandon. Hmm... that sounds like an interesting idea. The heat exchanger is best suited to be located in the engine bay - that’s what it was designed for. I haven’t heard of anyone installing it anywhere else. I’m not a mechanic or a plumber, but I don’t think it is a good idea extending your coolant hoses all the way to the rear of the vehicle - even with a bypass tap. The fewer things to go wrong, the better. I’d be very very careful with the radiator hoses & not mess too much with it because if that goes wrong, you could seize your engine. I think it’s probably better to keep the heat exchanger in the engine bay and to then run the cold water from your tank to the heat exchanger, and the mix output back to where you need it. It’s no greater effort than your idea but far less risky & more efficient in my opinion. The other alternative is to not run any hoses between the engine bay & rear of the vehicle at all. What some people are doing is to simply have an in & out outlet under the engine bay and to use a bucket or jerry can. The other alternative is to use an electric water boiler like the Duoetto MkII. The plumbing is the same, but this way you can have everything in the rear of the vehicle, all self-contained. I would probably choose this method if I had enough space. Of course, the downside of the electric boiler is it needs to be full of water all the time, which means you need to carry an extra 10L of water in the boiler which is an extra 10kg of weight. But if weight is not an issue, and space is not an issue, then all good! I hope that helps a little. Once again, I’m not a mechanic or plumber, so if you want to push on with your idea, I’d recommend getting the opinion of a mechanic. Best of luck!! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures Thank you for the feedback and alternative options. I have looked in to the Mkii and unfortunately they only offer it in the 12v/240v option. In which I would prefer a 12v/120v option for using on shore power in the US. I am going to have to play with the exchanger option as a whole. I have an idea of how I want the Troopy build to layout and would prefer the hot water system to be in the back utilizing sink and shower facilities there. The other reasoning I had in running the engine coolant to the heat exchanger in the back, was to ensure when the system was heated, it wasn't exposed to freezing temps, causing any freeze damage to the pipes. That said, I could leave the exchanger in the engine bay and just over-kill insulate the water pipes to the back. Thanks again, I sure appreciate your feedback.
In regards to setting your shower at the back of the vehicle...Could you run a cold pipe from the pump and a hot pipe out from the heat exchanger under the vehicle to the back? They would connect to the tempering valve set up at the back of vehicle, which of course then connects to your shower head. Can you see any reason why this wouldn't work?
Technically, sure you could locate the various components wherever you like by just extending the plumbing, but there are some things to consider. Heat loss is one thing. How much that would matter... 🤷🏻♂️. There probably wouldn’t be a huge amount of heat loss, but there definitely would be some. Also, there is some risk of the plumbing getting damaged under the vehicle, so some protection for the plumbing wouldn’t hurt. But apart from that, yes, it should work. The other thing to consider is the length of the plumbing. The pump will have to push the water from the rear of the vehicle to the front & back again. That’s about 6-7m of hose to travel through. That might lead to reduced pressure if you don’t choose a pump that is capable of maintaining pressure over that distance. Good luck!! 😊👍
What is the sort of temper valve you used? Would you change/modify/upgrade anything about this setup given the 14 months that have passed since you posted this video? Thank you for this solution! It's very well thought out, and I'm trying to find a way to do this on my Jeep JL now.
I thought the Glind temp could be controlled by using the in cabin temp control on the dash? Beautiful job by the way. Can your water pump be controlled for speed / flow rate?
It can, however the reason I’m using the temper valve is to reduce water wastage through adjustment of the heater control until I get the temperature right. The water flow rate can be controlled via a tap as well as a small valve on the shower head. 🙂👍
Just found your channel, great content... I'm an ex-pat living in the United States and had trouble trying to find that mixing valve that you had in this video, you wouldn't happen to have some information about that part? Looks like a got a few videos to watch. lol.
Hi Wes, welcome to the channel! I have some links in the description which should help you. You should be able to get the temper valve from johnguest.com. 😊👍
Great video, what a great system. I have a 2000 hiace trakka with an undercarriage tank of 118 litres and another 50 litres under the bed. The tank under the car used to heat off the coolant water via a hose running through a coil inside the tank, very efficient. Unfortunately the coil ruptured inside the tank and dumped all the coolant out the engine into the tank! Luckily I noticed the engine overheating and pulled over immediately. I've been toying with the idea of removing the tank, cutting the top of the tank off and replacing the coil then welding the tank shut again....big job. I've since come across the glind system which seems really practical to me, one question, my inline whale pump runs at 12 litres per minute, much more than the 3.8 litre per minute supplied with the glind system. I'm a bit concerned it will pump the water too quickly through the heat exchanger for it to heat efficiently. What litre per minute is your pump? I've been in contact with Trakka and they have told me I can reduce the flow by turning the tap down to reduce the flow which will alloy the water to get hotter.......Thanks in advance for your feedback.
G’day Eric, yes, that’s exactly what you should do. In fact, I do the same thing - just reduce the water flow rate by only opening the tap partially. My pump is an automatic pressure sensing pump (seaflow) which uses a diaphragm, so it can handle working at reduced capacities. I can definitely recommend the Glind heat exchanger as I’ve found it to be a rock solid product & it works very well, especially if you build your system to use a temper valve to control the temperature like I have. Good luck!! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures I live in Qld so most of the year won't be using hot water and probably wont fit the temper valve, does this make sense to you? Happy to rethink if you suggest why it is practical no matter what the air temp is.
I’m in QLD right now, filming another adventure :) I know what you mean, in the summer the water in the tank is mostly at room temp or warmer, so you don’t really need to heat it. But, if you do want warm water, the temper valve is a sure fire way of getting the correct temperature without wasting water mixing hot & cold. You can adjust the temperature on the valve depending on summer-winter needs. That said, if you have a 160L tank, it sounds like you have plenty of water.
well Im not the only one haha I am in the process to build my hot shower system, I got the heat exchanger (different from yours) installed and was wondering how and where to install the pump, I like you put it on the engine bay, I didnt know about the temperature valve which is amazing, this changes the whole set up in my head, just one question to confirm something I'm thinking, if your heat exchanger doesn't produce hot water (lets say over 40C) right away the valve wouldn't work right?
Hi there. The pump can go anywhere you have space. In other vehicles, when there isn’t room in the engine bay, I install it elsewhere. As long as the plumbing is protected from heat in the engine bay and from stones etc. if you run it under the car along the chassis rails. The temper valve basically stops water above a set temperature from passing through. Anything colder will still go through it. Hope that answers your questions! There’s also an FAQ video which might answer any more questions you might have. Good luck with your build! 😊👍
It works with any vehicle. And the beauty is, if you have a small car, it takes up no space at all, and you don’t need to carry separate hot water tank - as is the case if you were to use an electric boiler. Good luck!! 😊👍
I love the idea of a Glind system and you take on it. I use a portable HWS that is proving very impacticle. I have a LR Discovery 4 and was wondering if you could install the Glind system into that? The challenge being is that it is very limited in space inside the engine bay. What do you think? Could you supply what is needed?
Hi Peter. Thanks very much. The heat exchanger works very well, and especially the way I have set up the plumbing, it is very water efficient and works very well. Space in the engine bay can definitely be problematic on some vehicles. I had to make up a custom bracket to mount mine in "the air" because I had no more space left on the walls of the engine bay. I've seen the engine bay of a LandCruiser 200 series which is so cramped that you would never be able to fit this in. If you do have some room, ideally, the heat exchanger would be mounted close to the existing hoses so that you don't add too much length to the system. Other alternatives could be using an electric hot water system (like the Duoetto MkII) instead of the heat exchanger. I have built a system using this and it works just as well. I can supply the heat exchanger if you like. I've been working on putting together a kit with all the parts, however I haven't had too much success with obtaining a wholesale price for the plumbing, therefore at the moment, you could buy all the plumbing parts and pump cheaper yourself, but I will keep working on sourcing the plumbing for the kit. If there's enough interest, I could still put together a kit now. Let me know if you are interested in either the kit or just the heat exchanger and I will set up an online store (half done already) so you can get going with things. All the best!
G’day Liam, thanks very much!! If you really want to know, I reckon it cost about as much as the car did! 😳 But I learnt a heck of a lot doing it, had a massive amount of fun and got a custom setup that was perfect for my needs. :)
Thanks for the posting on hot water showers! Did you attach the heat exchanger, tempering valve and pump to the side walls under the hood? I have a RAM Promaster with a tiny hood and crowded engine compartment, won't fit under there, have you heard of anyone who's installed this set up in a Promaster? Thanks!
G’day Mark, no I haven’t. I’m currently doing an install where the pump is at the rear of the vehicle and only the heat exchanger and temper valve are in the engine bay. You can get a variety of shapes & sizes of heat exchanger, so you may be able to find something that can fit. If all else fails, a possible alternative may be to use an electric water heater and place the whole setup in the back - depending on if you have room, and sufficient battery capacity. Oh, I had to make a custom bracket for my heat exchanger because I had no room to mount it to the sidewall of the engine bay. This way, I have it located in a space between other components just near the engine. Hope that helps. All the best! 😊👍
Hi Paul, yes. An alternative to the heat exchanger is to use an electric boiler. Check out my How Water Shower System FAQ video where I explain it in more detail. The plumbing is essentially the same in both cases.
Great system, take it as a compliment, I am going to copy it. Your rooftop light bar, do you use it much? Any bonnet glare from that location? My bullbar mounted light bar is sufficient but I am thinking of adding a rooftop bar (because why not have more light?) but don’t want it to light up the bonnet….
Hey mate, cracking hot water system ! What has this cost roughly ? Just the set up you have without the water tank etc as I’d just go from a 10L bucket. Cheers.
G’day Paul, thanks very much! It’s kind of hard to estimate because it’s a custom install and installation in each vehicle would vary a bit. I have listed all the parts in the description and links to where you can get them from both in Australia and the US. I’d guess it would probably cost around $750 for the parts alone. It’s not the cheapest solution out there because it’s all custom, and it may not suit everyone, but for those that travel like I do, on the move every day and want a super quick & efficient set up, this definitely has some major advantages over what you can buy. All the best! 😊👍
I’m gearing up here in the next week or so to start installing my own pressure hot water system on my Jeep! I really like how yours is put together. I have a pressure sensing pump, heat exchanger, temper valve and in-line screen filter. I won’t have a storage tank yet, as I need to give that a little more thought as to the location. I’m curious, since I’m a visual person, do you have some sort of diagram as to how all the plumbing hooks to all the parts? Thank you in advance, love your simple system.
Thanks very much! There is a diagram at the end of the video. Also, there is a follow up FAQ video where I go over the whole system in fine detail and explain how to plumb it all together. Good luck with your build!! 😊👍
Great system! Thanks for posting; i had one question; does the water supply tank have 2 outputs? One to feed the heat exchanger and one to the temper valve? Thanks !
Hi Robert, thanks very much! You’re almost on the right track. The water supply does split into 2 paths, but not from the tank. Check out the FAQ video I posted about the hot water system. That should answer all your questions! 😊👍
This is the way to do it! Love it! Can you please tell me if the pump you recommend will lift water up from a bucket or even a creek with out the need of priming it first? It looks like you have it located higher than your tank?
Thank you! The pump can definitely lift water from a bucket, no issues at all. The factors that determine if/how well the pump works in other scenarios are: length of hose, the incline up which you draw the water. I haven’t tested this over long hose runs or up steep hills, so can’t give you a more definitive answer, but I do remember reading the pump specs where this information was documented. Perhaps try to find the technical specs for the pump? It is a Seaflow 9.5LPM automatic pressure sensing pump. All the best! 😊👍
I've read 5 comments where you say the engine does not need to remain running. But surely once the shower has run for a minute or so, it will exhaust all the residual heat in the exchanger, without any new coolant flow from the engine? It's only going to work for a short period unless you have another separate pump to circulate the engine coolant.
Hi John, yes, you are correct. But it’s not “a minute or so”. With the engine off, you can actually produce a surprisingly large volume of hot water. Plenty for a shower or two. I’m not necessarily talking about 30 min showers with continuous running water throughout. For that, simply leave the engine running & throw a hose into a river :) I have an FAQ video coming out in a few days which will hopefully answer any questions you may have. All the best 😊👍
@@4xAdventures For anyone reading this later, I've now installed the system and it works incredibly well. However it is wrong to say that the engine doesn't needs to be running. If the engine is switched off, the heat exchanger (the same Glind unit) runs out of heat within 30 seconds and starts going cold. The engine must be running to make this work. For reference it's a 70 series land cruiser with a diesel engine, but all cars run at roughly the same coolant temperature which is 85 degrees.
@johnleaste828 Hi John, thanks for your comment. The way I tend to use it is to briefly run it to get wet, turn off water, soap/shampoo etc. then turn on water briefly to rinse off. This way, it remains nice & warm the whole time. If you want to have a shower like you would at home, then definitely keep the engine running to keep the heat going. An alternative is to use an electric water heater like the Duoetto instead of the heat exchanger. The plumbing works the same way. But you’re right, the heat does eventually decline without the engine running. After a few minutes, I still get warm/room temp water (unless it’s winter) and that is still ok for me. Appreciate the comment. 🙂👍
Hi there. I haven’t had to deal with that because it just doesn’t get cold enough here for that to be a problem. I suppose you could insulate any piping runs that are outside of the cabin by running them through radiator hose or something similar… but that is just speculating because I’m not familiar with how these things are dealt with in cold climates.also, you could simply turn the water off at the input and keep the pump running for a few seconds to allow any water still in the piping to flow out. All the best! 😊👍
Good job! Would you be able to indicate what small things you left out in your diagram (republish?) and where the one-way valves need to go (and what type/make)? Thanks!
The system I just built is a tad simpler. I used a ball valve on the inlet of the coolant to the heat exchanger to control the shower temperature. The more you shut the valve, the colder the water gets. I also used a pump and a solenoid valve instead of a pressure sensing pump.
Excellent! Very clever!! I guess just don’t forget to open the ball valve fully before driving :) Do you have to keep adjusting the ball valve each time until the water temperature is right? The advantage of the temper valve is you get the correct temperature water straight away without wasting water. But I like your setup! Great job! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures I just leave it fully open. So far my setup produces pretty much perfect water temperature with the engine idling, and if I need to make it cooler i can always close the valve a bit.
Thankyou! I used 12mm quick fit hoses from John Guest for all the plumbing in the hot water/shower system (not including the radiator hoses, which would be specific to your vehicle & heat exchanger). Check the links in the description for more info! 😊👍
this is awesome! does this system come out hot with the first cycle? ive seen on other videos people are have to cycle the water through the heat exchanger a few times to get it up to temp? thanks!
Thankyou. No cycling necessary. It comes out hot - apart from any water left in the hose after the heat - as that wouldn’t have passed through it. But that’s just a pretty small mount. 😊👍
Thankyou. You don’t need to keep the engine running. There’s a separate 12V pump to pump water from a tank/bucket through the heat exchanger. The engine block remains hot for quite a while after driving, so there’s no need to keep the engine running. Of course, if it’s first thing in the morning for example, just run the engine for a few min to get it up to temperature and then you can switch off again.
@@4xAdventures thx for explaining. btw did you built the exchanger directly in the coolant line od as as parallel bypass. wondering about flow during driving
Well done, been looking for a setup exactly like this. However a step by step installation would be absolute mint
Thank you! Check out the hot water system FAQ video. Although it’s not an installation video, it may answer any questions you may still have. I’m trying to organise an installation video - stay tuned! All the best! 😊👍
I have the Glind system set up on my car with the two hose connections plumbed to the front of the bull bar. In between the two connectors is a marine switch to turn on the pump. This eliminates having to lift the Bonnet. People who own these systems are always under the impression they have to run the motor while they have the shower. This is not true. You can heat the water first. What I do is, using two short hoses I heat the water up in my shower jerrycan first. I have a thermometer dropped in it that has an alarm set at my desired temperature, which for us is 45°C. The wife loves a very hot shower so she goes first and then by the time I go in the water has dropped that little bit which suits me. While the water is heating I set up the shower pole at the front of the bull bar. I prefer the shower at the front of the car so it’s not soaking the ground around the door areas. Once the water reaches the desired temperature, the alarm goes off. I then turn the pump off and the car off and swap the two short hoses for the shower hoses. The water temperature only drops minimal by the time you’ve had your complete shower. It’s a way better experience having a shower without the motor running. You can enjoy the tranquility of the bush. If we need privacy I have a pop-up ensuite that just clips onto the front of the bull bar.
We’ve had this system on the car for about 12 years now. In my opinion, these are by far way superior than any other shower system. No matter what the weather conditions are you’ve always got a hot shower. All the bulky componentry’s are under the Bonnet and out of the way.
Hey mate what connections did you connect to your bar?
@@andrewsimpson1433 Standard brass hose fittings. The male ends. This is so I can connect blocked off female ends that act as covers.
Spectacular. Thanks for sharing.
Epic mate! Great set up.
Thanks very much!
This is a tremendously clever setup, my friend! Nicely done!
Thankyou so much! It’s evolved quite a bit since that video was made. I might do an update video soon. All the best! 😊👍
Great video... thanks for sharing! 👌
I’m very glad you found it useful! All the best! 😊👍
Thanks very much for this! 👍🏻
Awesome idea!
Thanks very much! :)
Sir, you nailed it. Simple. Efficient. Brilliant.
Thank you 😊👍
@@4xAdventures Where did you source your actual heat exchanger from?
I purchased mine from Glind here in Australia. I actually liked their product so much, I asked if I could become a reseller, which I now am. If you are in Australia, you can purchase from 4xAdventures.com.au. Same price as the Glind web site. If you are in the US, I’d recommend purchasing from Glindhotshower.com as you would save on postage & currency conversion.
Great idea!
Thanks very much!! 😊👍
Excellent video mate, thanks for sharing
Thanks very much!! 😊👍
Wow fantastic with options, tank or lake, city water. Love it. Thanks sooo much!🙉😊
Thanks very much! 😊👍
noice work mate
Thanks very much! 😊👍
Awesome 👌 thanks
bloody brilliant... love ur work mate!
Thanks very much!! 😊👍
That is a nice install, simple, efficient & elegant, does away with the overheating issues that others complain about with the Glind system, a temper valve just makes it simpler & better. Love the pop out shower cubical as well. I will look into that pressure piping for my install as I just scored a full Glind system in a case for free today.
Thankyou! 😊👍
Nice system. I had hoped you'd made your heat exchanger yourself as this is the part I am searching for. But I will steal that temper valve idea :)
Thankyou! I don’t make the heat exchanger, but I liked the idea so much I have eventually become a reseller of the Glind heat exchanger. You can check out 4xAdventures.com.au for more details if you’re interested. I’m still working on how to sell all these bits as a kit, but it’s quite difficult as every car is different. All the best! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures I am trying to work on a slightly different system, I am not sure if I am wasting my time or not, but I am looking at having a hot water storage tank, and the heat exchange would be like a coil running through that tank. My theory was I could have 20l of hot water stored. Too much for just one but I camp with the whole family often. The problem is where to put a tank in an overland vehicle. I would imagine your system may require an engine running if I was to shower a bunch of people?
Yes, it’s fine for a while with the engine off, but eventually you would lose heat. Your best option is to get yourself a Duoetto electric hot water heater. They have 10L and 6L versions. They are excellent. If you look at my plumbing, just replace the heat exchanger with the electric water heater - you can still use the temper valve & pump and it will work perfectly well. With 10L you should easily be able to shower 4 people. I will hopefully list their products for sale on my website soon. 😊😂
This is freaking genius.
Ha! Thanks very much!! 😊👍
Awesome job mate. Definitely be using your system and ideas for my van conversion. I really have no idea why this hasn't taken off in the van community
Thanks very much Chloe! Good luck with building it. All the best! 😊👍
Great video
Thanks very much! 😊👍
Hi, very thoughtful set -up. Thanks for sharing . Could you please make a video about your water set-up ? It looks quite interesting ! Many thanks.
Thankyou. There have been a few people asking about that, so I might just make a video, once our lockdown ends. All the beset!
In America we just call it PEX and is sold at any home supply store such as home depot. We mostly use it in homes and rvs.
Mate, brilliant set up. Well done you.
Thanks very much!! 😊👍
Genius
genius!
Great setup. Thanks for sharing
Thanks very much! 😊👍
Great setup! Thanks for putting this together.
Not a problem! Thanks for watching!
😊👍
This is great! I'm in Nashville, TN and am building out a 2020 Tacoma Off Road. I just found my shower solution. Thank you for taking the time to make this video and post it.
Hey Joey! Thanks very much for watching! I’m glad you found it useful. I’m sure you will be satisfied with this solution. I’d love to see the completed Tacoma - they are great vehicles!! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures Is this the correct exchanger? glind.com.au/store/heat-exchangers/glind-auto-marine-heat-exchanger/
Model SKU: GL27 Auto and Marine.
I'll for sure share some pics when its completed!
Yes, that’s the one. Glind has a US distributor. Check the video description for the link. That may save you international currency & shipping fees.
:)
@@4xAdventures Would the SEAFLO water pressure pump Model : SFDP1-070-060-53 do the trick? Also, if its not too much trouble, can you tell me what model temper valve you decided on? Thank you very much for your time and knowledge.
Great video. I especially like the use of the tempering valve. Thanks
Thanks very much!! 😊👍
Like many others who have replied, thanks for this really clear explanation of your clever hot water set-up. I've had a Glind exchanger sitting in the shed for a while now as I haven't been too sure how to best set it up. Now I do. I've subscribed and look forward to watching more of your videos. Thanks again.
Thanks very much!! And welcome to the channel ☺️👍
Nice! will definitely rig something similar
Thanks! It works really well. 😊👍
Bloody brilliant, well thought out and hassle free. the only improvement I could think of is a foot operated trigger for the water allowing hands free washing.
Thanks very much!! Good idea! 🤔
Keep up the great content and happy travels for 2021.
Thankyou! And thanks very much for watching 😊👍
You really made it sound so simple. Great job!
Thanks very much! :) It IS simple... kind of :)
Nice work mate. Great idea with the tempering valve. Love the yellow FJ as well.
Thanks very much!! 😊👍
Thanks for that, I had that idea in my head, happy to hear the tempering valve cuts the mustard for temperature control, far better than the gas systems I've seen, Im in the process of doing up my FJ too, space is an issue their LOL
Thanks for your input on all your ideas fantastic job.
Andrew and Janey in WA
Hi there :) I’m glad you found the video useful. Yes, this method is far better and slot less fiddly than the gas method. Good luck with your FJ!! 😊👍
I was looking for someone explaining this kind of system! I had a hard time finding someone but I'm glad I did. Thanks a lot!
Hi Aksel. I’m glad you found the video useful! ☺️👍
Outstanding work, this is a very practical creative idea. Well done and thanks for sharing it with us
Thank you kindly! 😊👍
Great to meet you in person and Thank you for the in-depth explanation on how the system works.
G’day Andrew, it was lovely to meet you too! Good luck with your 200 series!! 😊👍
Also, let me know if you want to go ahead with the heat exchanger & shower system.
4xAdventures definitely going ahead👍, contacted Berrima Diesel today. They no longer install heat exchange so I may need to rely on you for my VDJ79 build 🙏🏼🤞
No worries. Just let me know when you’re ready & we’ll work out the details.
4xAdventures should get my 79 back from ARB by March 11.
Been looking for something exactly like this for awhile now. Great video, and very informative. The diagram at the end just topped it off. Thank you!!!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching, and if you build it, good luck! Let me know if you have any questions. 😊👍
@@4xAdventures I'm not sure I'm smart enough to build it myself lol but I checked out glinds site after watching this and they sell a kit that comes with everything needed. I might just go that route
Cool. There’s nothing wrong with just using their heat exchanger & pump. I just thought I’d make an improvement. :)
@@4xAdventures you definitely did. And I will be adding the temper valve like your set up. For the cost and ease of use theres not reason not to.
Thanks for the great information. I’m halfway through fitting a Scintex 30 plate heat exchanger to my FJ. I’m now going to incorporate a temper valve and the JG piping.
No problems! I haven’t seen that heat exchanger before. I’ll check it out.
Re. The pump, just make sure you use a pressure sensing pump, otherwise you won’t get enough pressure to make things work properly!
Good luck!!
😊👍
@@4xAdventures yes, Seaflo pump pressure sensing. I'm building a solid, reliable system. It will take some time & $$ but it will be worth it 👍😀
Yes, it isn’t the cheapest solution, but it works really well & should last as long as the car does. And no hassles with lugging showering contraptions around with long setup times. I think this is a great solution :)
Great job mate that’s very interesting
Thanks very much!! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures how much did that system set you back?
Fantastic idea! Thanks for detailed explanation. Hello from California USA. New subbie.
Hello Cyn! Lovely to hear from you. Thanks very much, and welcome to the channel. I hope you enjoy the videos. ☺️
Wow. Well done sir. Love the system. You got yourself a subscriber after 1 vid !
G’day Ben, thanks very much!! And welcome to the channel 👍☺️
I’ve been searching for something, just didn’t know what it was, I now know. Thank you sir.
No worries at all! Thanks for watching!! 😊👍
Who can set it up in my 2020 Rav4?? Is it. DIY project? Can you please list all the parts being used it this video
Hi there. Yes, it is a DIY project. It’s not difficult. All the parts can be found in the description. Good luck!! 😊👍
Brilliant idea. 👍
Thanks!! 😊👍
brilliant work mate
Thank you kindly! 😊👍
Appreciate you putting the effort into helping others, thanks.
Just what I was searching for ! Great job, very efficient system!
You should get it patented sir!!!!!
Thank you kindly! 😊👍
Thats really nice i need a setuo like tge plumbing
Thanks very much :)
Great video, love the idea of the JG Speedfit. How did you connect the Speedfit to the glind heat exchanger?
Also how has the speedfit been with vibrations etc?
Thankyou! The Glind heat exchanger has barb connectors on it, so I am using a short length of hose to go from that to a barb-JG connector. But, I’ve spoken to Glind, and they will be offering a choice of barb or JG connections on the heat exchanger!!
It’s been rock solid over the past few years. The speed fit connections are designed to just get tighter if you try to pull them apart without first pushing together and depressing the outer ring, so they can’t come apart. Very clever design! 😊👍
You may have been asked already. Is that small pump able to self prime and pump water up a long hose placed in a river or external water supply? I can understand pumping from the tank, not being far from the pump and also being slightly elevated, but down to a river is hard to imagine. Good job, nice setup.
G’day John, This depends entirely on the pump used. Some pumps will actually publish the incline and distance that they are able to pull water up on the inlet side. I have tested this particular pump with a 10m hose and that works ok, however the incline will ultimately determine how effective it is. I haven’t tested it with a steep drop as yet - simply because I haven’t yet had the need or circumstances arise. I don’t have the booklet that came with the pump with me at the moment, but when choosing a pump, look for the ratio 1:xx for the incline on the input side if this is likely to be important to you. You can always just take a collapsible 10L bucket with you and fill it up from the river and the pump it in from next to the car. All the best! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures thanks for your reply and helpful info.
Brilliant. Really well thought out.
Thanks very much. 😊👍
Great Video!! I just recently discovered your channel and I think it is one of the best overlanding channels out there!! This idea for hot water is brilliant. I am going to set this up on my rig. Thank You!!
Thanks very much!! 😊👍
Great design! I was already on this path and you gave me the last 20%, thx.
Not a problem!! Enjoy! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures are you on Instagram?
Yes! Instagram is: 4xAdventures_australia
Really informative video! Really like the titles and overall editing a lot more. Keep up the good work!
Thanks very much!!
Great Video!
Thanks very much!!
Awesome video. Waiting for your detailed install video now. I have a 5th Gen 4Runner. Id think the install would be the same as your FJ. Subscribed!
Thank you! I am hoping to film a complete install soon. Just waiting for availability of someone’s vehicle. 😊👍
@@4xAdventures Can you show me how you connected the heat exchanger to the vehicle?
Great video,I will be doing the exact same thing. Cheers!
Thanks very much!! 😊👍
Excellent work Atilla
Thanks very much Tim!
Nice work!
Thanks very much!! 😊👍
Will the tempering valve stop the water flow out the mix output if the water temperature is under the set temperature or only if it is over the set temperature and not able to get cold water through to mix it? Meaning if the vehicle is not hot enough to enable the heat-exchanger to provide hot enough water for the tempering valve setting. Otherwise you could still waste plenty of water if you did not run the vehicle long enough before using the shower. Great set up by the way.
Thankyou. Yes, you are correct, the temper valve is designed to stop the temperature getting above the set threshold, but it will let colder temperatures through. I’m using a scangauge which is connected to the OBD port. It shows the engine water temperature, so I can tell by looking at that - but also just experience will allow you to gauge what the resulting output will be. But, you can always just leave the engine running and all will be good! 😊👍
Wow dude. This is a genius concept. I love the simplicity and efficiency.
I have a few questions if you'd have a moment-
How cold can this run? Theoretically if I drained the entire system if I knew it was going to get cold could I still use this in the Rockies during winter? I'd like to try and insulate my tank in the back of my Subaru Forester where my spare currently sits. Then run the shower and pump. Hit a cutoff valve to the tank and then pump the remaining water out of the system. Just wondering what your take is on winterizing and if this is a feasible idea.
Thanks very much!
Depending on the type of temper valve you have, you can vary the temperature as much as you like. So, re. How cold it you can make it, you can essentially make it the same temperature as the source (tank, bucket, river) and then introduce hot water into the mix by varying the temperature via the temper valve. Check out the FAQ video to this which might answer some of your questions.
I live in Australia, so don’t have any experience with a cold climate, but it is definitely possible to turn off the water at your tank and then to let the pump drain whatever is left in the hoses. Even if you partially drained it, that would be enough to stop the water freezing & cracking the pipes. So yes, that would definitely work!
All the best! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures SWEET! You are the absolute man! Thank you for the feedback. Im giddy to try this out.
Random question for your expertise:
Im tossing this in a 2018 Subaru Forester. Im need to insulate my water tank somehow and im thinking of putting it in where my spare currently is and somehow insulating the shit out of it. I saw your episode on a 12v blanket.... trying to scheme out a way to make it possible to keep the tank warm. Any ideas on placement or any methods of keeping it from freezing?
Great informative video well done .👍
Thanks very much!
Maybe you could post a materials list in your description of this video or your faq video with all the parts you’ve used in this build. This would be very helpful.
Hi there. I have a list of websites where you can purchase the various components. I have added this to the description of both videos.
😊👍
hey mate really enjoyed the video, it’s now 2 years on. how has the system held up over the last 2 years?
Genius! Would love a more detailed diagram showing what goes where though! Thanks.
Thankyou! The schematic near the end of the video is about as complicated (simple) as it gets.
I’m planning another video (just as soon as I get time) of an installation end to end, so that should answer any questions you may have! 😊👍
Hi I’ve watched this video about 6 times already and love your set up. I also have a 2012 FJ and need to build the same system for our trips. Do you have a breakdown of parts or are you making them for people?
Hi there. There is an FAQ video which should explain any questions you still might have. Also, check the video description as I have listed the main components and where you can purchase them from. If you have any questions after that, let me know. All the best! 😊👍
Thanks looking for the video now. I commend you on the ability to make these projects sound simple. Keep up great work!
I’ve got a companion aqua cube lithium and I spent two weeks away over Christmas everyday and it never let me down, in my opinion better than a heat exchanger
I also have a Coleman hot water on demand, which is similar to what you have. Every product has its strengths & weaknesses. I’m glad you’re satisfied with your product.
The reason I decided to make my own hot water system is because i wasn’t satisfied with the Coleman unit. It was incredibly wasteful with water, and it took ages to set up - lots of clutter & paraphernalia. I think if you’re staying at one camp site for a few days, then it’s fine to set it up & leave it, but I was after something that was simple, quick to setup & efficient with water. So I think I’ve improved on my old Coleman system, which I found to be a hassle.
But, to each their own! 😊👍
I really like what you have developed. We are fitting out a van and think this could be ideal as a hot water system. Where are you located as we would appreciate you assistance in setting it up.
Thanks very much!! I am in Sydney, Australia.
Great video. Very inventive and concise explanation. I will have to give it go. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks very much!! 😊👍
Thanks for sharing this video it was very informative. I have a hino truck and have been doing some research on shower systems and this one looks the best. Would it be possible to build some like this to fit a light truck? And Would you still consider building something like this for me?
Hi Cameron, thanks very much. As long as there is room in the engine bay to mount the heat exchanger, this would work with any petrol/diesel engine. I’m planning on having an end to end installation video up at some point so that people can follow along and build their own - it’s not hard, but can take some extra time if a mounting bracket needs to be made, radiator hoses sourced etc.
@@4xAdventures I’m sure there would be but I will have to have a look. Is there a way I can contact you direct discuss further?
Thanks
Fabulous idea and great video. Where and what do you store your water in ?
Hi Cherie, thanks very much :) The FJ’s are pretty limited for space. In Australia, they came standard with a 159L fuel tank, so there is no room underneath for water. I have a 22L water tank built in behind the drivers seat. (See my FJ build video for more details). Hope that helps!! :)
Great video, thanks for sharing.
I’m thinking of an Isotemp heat exchanger tank for my sprinter campervan. My question is, how long does the coolant stay hot enough to have a shower after you’ve stopped driving? I’m in the UK, so no 40° days here. Lol.
G’day Ben, Thankyou, and thanks for watching!! I actually answer this question in the follow up video. It’s too long to type the full answer here, but check out the “frequently asked questions” video first, and if you still have any questions, let me know! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures Thanks for that. I’ve just watched the FAQ’s video.
I’m still swayed towards the Isotemp slim square with the 16 litre tank. Just to keep it simple for my wife and kids to use. I would definitely go for your system if it was just myself.
I’ll look forward to your installation video though, before I make a decision.
Brilliant!, how come you are not selling the kit yourself ? would be really helpful
Hi there. I am in the process of developing a kit. It’s not far off. Hopefully I can have something available in a few months. 🙂👍
Top stuff! I have an fj too. I have relocated my power steering fluid to where you have the heat exchanger. I wonder if I have enough room to fit one, I am in Sydney and would be keen to get your help to make one.
G’day Ben. I am installing one for someone in March. Happy to help if I can. Being in Sydney helps :)
4xAdventures that would be great. I am away until the 18th March. When are you planning the install. Maybe I could come and have a look
I don’t have dates worked out yet. All I know is it will most likely be in March sometime.
Great system - I think you've solved the only real hassle I have had with a heat transfer shower system....by using the temper valve ! Brilliant ! I take it that the one pump can generate enough pressure to impel the water in 2 streams, one to the heat exchanger and the other to the temper valve ?
Actually, you have already answered my question above. Another one : did you get the under bonnet hoses and fittings from RTM too ?
G’day Denis, yes, you’ve got it! water source > pump > splitter. 1 path to heat exchanger > hot input of temper valve. The other path to cold input of temper valve. Mix output > shower rose/tap.
Mine has evolved a bit beyond that now. I have a choice of inputs now & a few other tweaks, but that’s the basic flow.
The heat exchanger came with a few radiator hoses, but I had to go buy a few more from Repco to make it fit nicely.
Hello, I am thinking about expanding on what you have installed here, by running the system in the back of a Troopy. My thought would be to put a Tee in to the engine coolant system in the engine compartment, put a bypass near the firewall to minimize the chance of springing a coolant leak while in motion (by closing the system and isolating it to the engine bay area), then extending the coolant lines to the cargo area of the Troopy, where I would mount the heat exchanger, pump and valve, etc all close(r) to the water tank, sink and shower setup. I think some thought would have to go in to insulating the lines, so as not to overheat surrounding components, etc along the way to the cargo area. Based off your experiences with your system, do you see any issues with what I have described? Thanks in advance for your time!
G’day Brandon. Hmm... that sounds like an interesting idea.
The heat exchanger is best suited to be located in the engine bay - that’s what it was designed for. I haven’t heard of anyone installing it anywhere else. I’m not a mechanic or a plumber, but I don’t think it is a good idea extending your coolant hoses all the way to the rear of the vehicle - even with a bypass tap. The fewer things to go wrong, the better. I’d be very very careful with the radiator hoses & not mess too much with it because if that goes wrong, you could seize your engine. I think it’s probably better to keep the heat exchanger in the engine bay and to then run the cold water from your tank to the heat exchanger, and the mix output back to where you need it. It’s no greater effort than your idea but far less risky & more efficient in my opinion.
The other alternative is to not run any hoses between the engine bay & rear of the vehicle at all. What some people are doing is to simply have an in & out outlet under the engine bay and to use a bucket or jerry can.
The other alternative is to use an electric water boiler like the Duoetto MkII. The plumbing is the same, but this way you can have everything in the rear of the vehicle, all self-contained. I would probably choose this method if I had enough space. Of course, the downside of the electric boiler is it needs to be full of water all the time, which means you need to carry an extra 10L of water in the boiler which is an extra 10kg of weight. But if weight is not an issue, and space is not an issue, then all good!
I hope that helps a little. Once again, I’m not a mechanic or plumber, so if you want to push on with your idea, I’d recommend getting the opinion of a mechanic.
Best of luck!! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures Thank you for the feedback and alternative options. I have looked in to the Mkii and unfortunately they only offer it in the 12v/240v option. In which I would prefer a 12v/120v option for using on shore power in the US.
I am going to have to play with the exchanger option as a whole. I have an idea of how I want the Troopy build to layout and would prefer the hot water system to be in the back utilizing sink and shower facilities there.
The other reasoning I had in running the engine coolant to the heat exchanger in the back, was to ensure when the system was heated, it wasn't exposed to freezing temps, causing any freeze damage to the pipes. That said, I could leave the exchanger in the engine bay and just over-kill insulate the water pipes to the back.
Thanks again, I sure appreciate your feedback.
Hi Brandon, no problems at all. Good luck with your build!! I’d be interested to hear about what you ended up doing when it’s done. All the best!! 😊👍
In regards to setting your shower at the back of the vehicle...Could you run a cold pipe from the pump and a hot pipe out from the heat exchanger under the vehicle to the back? They would connect to the tempering valve set up at the back of vehicle, which of course then connects to your shower head. Can you see any reason why this wouldn't work?
Technically, sure you could locate the various components wherever you like by just extending the plumbing, but there are some things to consider. Heat loss is one thing. How much that would matter... 🤷🏻♂️. There probably wouldn’t be a huge amount of heat loss, but there definitely would be some. Also, there is some risk of the plumbing getting damaged under the vehicle, so some protection for the plumbing wouldn’t hurt. But apart from that, yes, it should work. The other thing to consider is the length of the plumbing. The pump will have to push the water from the rear of the vehicle to the front & back again. That’s about 6-7m of hose to travel through. That might lead to reduced pressure if you don’t choose a pump that is capable of maintaining pressure over that distance.
Good luck!! 😊👍
What is the sort of temper valve you used?
Would you change/modify/upgrade anything about this setup given the 14 months that have passed since you posted this video?
Thank you for this solution! It's very well thought out, and I'm trying to find a way to do this on my Jeep JL now.
I thought the Glind temp could be controlled by using the in cabin temp control on the dash? Beautiful job by the way. Can your water pump be controlled for speed / flow rate?
It can, however the reason I’m using the temper valve is to reduce water wastage through adjustment of the heater control until I get the temperature right. The water flow rate can be controlled via a tap as well as a small valve on the shower head. 🙂👍
Just found your channel, great content... I'm an ex-pat living in the United States and had trouble trying to find that mixing valve that you had in this video, you wouldn't happen to have some information about that part? Looks like a got a few videos to watch. lol.
Hi Wes, welcome to the channel! I have some links in the description which should help you. You should be able to get the temper valve from johnguest.com. 😊👍
Great video, what a great system.
I have a 2000 hiace trakka with an undercarriage tank of 118 litres and another 50 litres under the bed. The tank under the car used to heat off the coolant water via a hose running through a coil inside the tank, very efficient. Unfortunately the coil ruptured inside the tank and dumped all the coolant out the engine into the tank! Luckily I noticed the engine overheating and pulled over immediately.
I've been toying with the idea of removing the tank, cutting the top of the tank off and replacing the coil then welding the tank shut again....big job.
I've since come across the glind system which seems really practical to me, one question, my inline whale pump runs at 12 litres per minute, much more than the 3.8 litre per minute supplied with the glind system. I'm a bit concerned it will pump the water too quickly through the heat exchanger for it to heat efficiently. What litre per minute is your pump?
I've been in contact with Trakka and they have told me I can reduce the flow by turning the tap down to reduce the flow which will alloy the water to get hotter.......Thanks in advance for your feedback.
G’day Eric, yes, that’s exactly what you should do. In fact, I do the same thing - just reduce the water flow rate by only opening the tap partially. My pump is an automatic pressure sensing pump (seaflow) which uses a diaphragm, so it can handle working at reduced capacities. I can definitely recommend the Glind heat exchanger as I’ve found it to be a rock solid product & it works very well, especially if you build your system to use a temper valve to control the temperature like I have.
Good luck!! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures I live in Qld so most of the year won't be using hot water and probably wont fit the temper valve, does this make sense to you? Happy to rethink if you suggest why it is practical no matter what the air temp is.
I’m in QLD right now, filming another adventure :)
I know what you mean, in the summer the water in the tank is mostly at room temp or warmer, so you don’t really need to heat it. But, if you do want warm water, the temper valve is a sure fire way of getting the correct temperature without wasting water mixing hot & cold. You can adjust the temperature on the valve depending on summer-winter needs. That said, if you have a 160L tank, it sounds like you have plenty of water.
well Im not the only one haha I am in the process to build my hot shower system, I got the heat exchanger (different from yours) installed and was wondering how and where to install the pump, I like you put it on the engine bay, I didnt know about the temperature valve which is amazing, this changes the whole set up in my head, just one question to confirm something I'm thinking, if your heat exchanger doesn't produce hot water (lets say over 40C) right away the valve wouldn't work right?
Hi there. The pump can go anywhere you have space. In other vehicles, when there isn’t room in the engine bay, I install it elsewhere. As long as the plumbing is protected from heat in the engine bay and from stones etc. if you run it under the car along the chassis rails.
The temper valve basically stops water above a set temperature from passing through. Anything colder will still go through it.
Hope that answers your questions! There’s also an FAQ video which might answer any more questions you might have. Good luck with your build! 😊👍
Love the system. A shower on a camping trip to me is absolutely the best! Brilliant use of available heat and efficient use of water.
Thankyou kindly!! 😊👍
I really need to do this with my Jeep!
It works with any vehicle. And the beauty is, if you have a small car, it takes up no space at all, and you don’t need to carry separate hot water tank - as is the case if you were to use an electric boiler. Good luck!! 😊👍
4xAdventures thank you!!!
I love the idea of a Glind system and you take on it. I use a portable HWS that is proving very impacticle. I have a LR Discovery 4 and was wondering if you could install the Glind system into that? The challenge being is that it is very limited in space inside the engine bay. What do you think? Could you supply what is needed?
Hi Peter. Thanks very much. The heat exchanger works very well, and especially the way I have set up the plumbing, it is very water efficient and works very well. Space in the engine bay can definitely be problematic on some vehicles. I had to make up a custom bracket to mount mine in "the air" because I had no more space left on the walls of the engine bay. I've seen the engine bay of a LandCruiser 200 series which is so cramped that you would never be able to fit this in. If you do have some room, ideally, the heat exchanger would be mounted close to the existing hoses so that you don't add too much length to the system. Other alternatives could be using an electric hot water system (like the Duoetto MkII) instead of the heat exchanger. I have built a system using this and it works just as well.
I can supply the heat exchanger if you like. I've been working on putting together a kit with all the parts, however I haven't had too much success with obtaining a wholesale price for the plumbing, therefore at the moment, you could buy all the plumbing parts and pump cheaper yourself, but I will keep working on sourcing the plumbing for the kit.
If there's enough interest, I could still put together a kit now. Let me know if you are interested in either the kit or just the heat exchanger and I will set up an online store (half done already) so you can get going with things.
All the best!
Hey really great video thank you. Only wish you said how much the set up cost you all up not including your time. Great ideas and following now.
G’day Liam, thanks very much!! If you really want to know, I reckon it cost about as much as the car did! 😳 But I learnt a heck of a lot doing it, had a massive amount of fun and got a custom setup that was perfect for my needs. :)
Thanks for the posting on hot water showers! Did you attach the heat exchanger, tempering valve and pump to the side walls under the hood? I have a RAM Promaster with a tiny hood and crowded engine compartment, won't fit under there, have you heard of anyone who's installed this set up in a Promaster?
Thanks!
G’day Mark, no I haven’t. I’m currently doing an install where the pump is at the rear of the vehicle and only the heat exchanger and temper valve are in the engine bay. You can get a variety of shapes & sizes of heat exchanger, so you may be able to find something that can fit. If all else fails, a possible alternative may be to use an electric water heater and place the whole setup in the back - depending on if you have room, and sufficient battery capacity.
Oh, I had to make a custom bracket for my heat exchanger because I had no room to mount it to the sidewall of the engine bay. This way, I have it located in a space between other components just near the engine.
Hope that helps. All the best! 😊👍
Hi mate. Did you make a custom bracket to mount the heat exchanger?
Hi Ben, yes I did. Finding a good spot for the heat exchanger & mounting it was the trickiest part. After that, the plumbing is easy.
@@4xAdventures thanks mate. I am going to use the 2 mounting holes on the cover.
That’s what I used. I recommend using loctite to ensure the bolts don’t come loose over time. Good luck 😊👍
Can this shower setup be used in a vintage camper?
Hi Paul, yes. An alternative to the heat exchanger is to use an electric boiler. Check out my How Water Shower System FAQ video where I explain it in more detail. The plumbing is essentially the same in both cases.
Great system, take it as a compliment, I am going to copy it.
Your rooftop light bar, do you use it much? Any bonnet glare from that location? My bullbar mounted light bar is sufficient but I am thinking of adding a rooftop bar (because why not have more light?) but don’t want it to light up the bonnet….
Hey mate, cracking hot water system ! What has this cost roughly ? Just the set up you have without the water tank etc as I’d just go from a 10L bucket. Cheers.
G’day Paul, thanks very much! It’s kind of hard to estimate because it’s a custom install and installation in each vehicle would vary a bit. I have listed all the parts in the description and links to where you can get them from both in Australia and the US. I’d guess it would probably cost around $750 for the parts alone. It’s not the cheapest solution out there because it’s all custom, and it may not suit everyone, but for those that travel like I do, on the move every day and want a super quick & efficient set up, this definitely has some major advantages over what you can buy.
All the best! 😊👍
I’m gearing up here in the next week or so to start installing my own pressure hot water system on my Jeep! I really like how yours is put together. I have a pressure sensing pump, heat exchanger, temper valve and in-line screen filter. I won’t have a storage tank yet, as I need to give that a little more thought as to the location. I’m curious, since I’m a visual person, do you have some sort of diagram as to how all the plumbing hooks to all the parts?
Thank you in advance, love your simple system.
Thanks very much! There is a diagram at the end of the video. Also, there is a follow up FAQ video where I go over the whole system in fine detail and explain how to plumb it all together.
Good luck with your build!! 😊👍
Great system! Thanks for posting; i had one question; does the water supply tank have 2 outputs? One to feed the heat exchanger and one to the temper valve? Thanks !
Hi Robert, thanks very much! You’re almost on the right track. The water supply does split into 2 paths, but not from the tank. Check out the FAQ video I posted about the hot water system. That should answer all your questions! 😊👍
This is the way to do it! Love it!
Can you please tell me if the pump you recommend will lift water up from a bucket or even a creek with out the need of priming it first? It looks like you have it located higher than your tank?
Thank you! The pump can definitely lift water from a bucket, no issues at all. The factors that determine if/how well the pump works in other scenarios are: length of hose, the incline up which you draw the water. I haven’t tested this over long hose runs or up steep hills, so can’t give you a more definitive answer, but I do remember reading the pump specs where this information was documented. Perhaps try to find the technical specs for the pump? It is a Seaflow 9.5LPM automatic pressure sensing pump.
All the best! 😊👍
I've read 5 comments where you say the engine does not need to remain running. But surely once the shower has run for a minute or so, it will exhaust all the residual heat in the exchanger, without any new coolant flow from the engine? It's only going to work for a short period unless you have another separate pump to circulate the engine coolant.
Hi John, yes, you are correct. But it’s not “a minute or so”. With the engine off, you can actually produce a surprisingly large volume of hot water. Plenty for a shower or two. I’m not necessarily talking about 30 min showers with continuous running water throughout. For that, simply leave the engine running & throw a hose into a river :) I have an FAQ video coming out in a few days which will hopefully answer any questions you may have. All the best 😊👍
@@4xAdventures For anyone reading this later, I've now installed the system and it works incredibly well. However it is wrong to say that the engine doesn't needs to be running. If the engine is switched off, the heat exchanger (the same Glind unit) runs out of heat within 30 seconds and starts going cold. The engine must be running to make this work. For reference it's a 70 series land cruiser with a diesel engine, but all cars run at roughly the same coolant temperature which is 85 degrees.
@johnleaste828 Hi John, thanks for your comment. The way I tend to use it is to briefly run it to get wet, turn off water, soap/shampoo etc. then turn on water briefly to rinse off. This way, it remains nice & warm the whole time. If you want to have a shower like you would at home, then definitely keep the engine running to keep the heat going. An alternative is to use an electric water heater like the Duoetto instead of the heat exchanger. The plumbing works the same way. But you’re right, the heat does eventually decline without the engine running. After a few minutes, I still get warm/room temp water (unless it’s winter) and that is still ok for me. Appreciate the comment. 🙂👍
Winterizing ? What do you do about fresh water in system between showers when it gets below freezing ?
Hi there. I haven’t had to deal with that because it just doesn’t get cold enough here for that to be a problem. I suppose you could insulate any piping runs that are outside of the cabin by running them through radiator hose or something similar… but that is just speculating because I’m not familiar with how these things are dealt with in cold climates.also, you could simply turn the water off at the input and keep the pump running for a few seconds to allow any water still in the piping to flow out.
All the best! 😊👍
Good job! Would you be able to indicate what small things you left out in your diagram (republish?) and where the one-way valves need to go (and what type/make)? Thanks!
Thanks very much Larry! I’m actually planning on shooting a follow up video very soon to answer those questions and others.
The system I just built is a tad simpler. I used a ball valve on the inlet of the coolant to the heat exchanger to control the shower temperature. The more you shut the valve, the colder the water gets. I also used a pump and a solenoid valve instead of a pressure sensing pump.
Excellent! Very clever!! I guess just don’t forget to open the ball valve fully before driving :)
Do you have to keep adjusting the ball valve each time until the water temperature is right? The advantage of the temper valve is you get the correct temperature water straight away without wasting water. But I like your setup!
Great job! 😊👍
@@4xAdventures I just leave it fully open. So far my setup produces pretty much perfect water temperature with the engine idling, and if I need to make it cooler i can always close the valve a bit.
Excellent!! :)
Great video! Do you remember the diameters of the hoses you used? Thanks in advance!
Thankyou! I used 12mm quick fit hoses from John Guest for all the plumbing in the hot water/shower system (not including the radiator hoses, which would be specific to your vehicle & heat exchanger). Check the links in the description for more info! 😊👍
this is awesome! does this system come out hot with the first cycle? ive seen on other videos people are have to cycle the water through the heat exchanger a few times to get it up to temp? thanks!
Thankyou. No cycling necessary. It comes out hot - apart from any water left in the hose after the heat - as that wouldn’t have passed through it. But that’s just a pretty small mount. 😊👍
great setup, defintely what i need.
One question though , do you need to keep the engine running to keep flow going in the heatexchanger
Thankyou. You don’t need to keep the engine running. There’s a separate 12V pump to pump water from a tank/bucket through the heat exchanger. The engine block remains hot for quite a while after driving, so there’s no need to keep the engine running. Of course, if it’s first thing in the morning for example, just run the engine for a few min to get it up to temperature and then you can switch off again.
@@4xAdventures thx for explaining. btw did you built the exchanger directly in the coolant line od as as parallel bypass. wondering about flow during driving
Directly inline. I’ll be filming an installation video where I will explain everything in more detail. Stay tuned!!
😊👍