No toes being stepped on at all- that's great that you have a concrete recipe worth sharing. We always welcome anyone's information, especially if it helps improve a process, product, or just gives an alternative solution. Our information is usually aimed at the 'one solution for all' goal, so we expect many people will tweak and adjust how they find works best for them and their application.
4 suggestions: not criticizing, btw . It looks nice. :-) 1. If you make a more complete form work on the bottom, it will save you from chasing the slump and repacking it, as you fill and vibrate the mold. No open areas. This will also save you time afterwards by eliminating extra grind down of the unevenness. Put the bottom wing pieces on after you have the mold partially filled. You can simply fill the main slab, add your rebar or whatever you use, then put on the sink box and bottom wings to finish the filling. Once you do this once, you will see the difference. 2. If you use rebar that size, the slab thickness should be at least 1.75-2". Carbon fiber rods are better and will never rust. 3. Taping along the caulk line before you caulk will eliminate that tiny spooge line along the edge and give you a better top edge. That line left by the caulk overage after you smooth it out (2:13-2:21) requires a polish out and won't leave a completely true edge. Caulk is best when it is applied as you would on any other surface to leave a clean neat look--taped first. That top has a sculpted edge and hides it a bit. But on a smooth clean edge, you will see that line or a shadow later. 4. If you are using a colored cement, make sure the slurry matches exactly. The sacking process will naturally darken the color by the heat generated from the rubbing. Even on plain cement with no color. If a client chose a specific color, a bad slurry match will change the color and create complaints if they are picky. Test the slurry and let it dry first on a similar small piece. How do I know this? I made precast tops and many architectural & cast stone precast elements for 25 years. Everyone learns by their mistakes and by having others give them tips. I'm also a union trained terrazzo mechanic and was in the trades over 40 years total. I've done huge custom jobs where the color and finish had to be flawless. I'm retired now. Just trying to help. Everyone has different ways of making these tops. Might as well make them as good as you can. You may think you are saving time, but the little extra time to do these suggestions will save you potential hassles when it's time to get paid. With anything concrete, the small details in the mold work are what makes the finished product be as excellent as possible. You can bet they will be picky with any kitchen or bathroom. Good luck!
It is helpful videos like this that keep me coming back to you guys for ordering product as well as learning new things. Way to stay above the others in my book. Keep up the good work!
Thats awesome!!! I have been looking at doing a cement vanity top for a bathroom I remodeling in my home, and this is the best work I have seen done!!! Keeps these videos coming!!!
gorgeous work, thank you for this! other projects spend a lot of time floating the top surface smooth while pouring countertop in place. it looks way easier to do as you have, pouring countertop upside down on a form.
Oh, that's so beautiful. My husband and I were thinking of doing granite or quartz, but someone linked us this video and some others, and now I'm thinking concrete would be great. So many things you can do with it!
i did do this with my home, good trick is too use plywood on a floor for your base then screw an orbital sander too it... to act as the vibrater... i did mine with it dyed a redish color and used broken blue glass on the surfice (bottom of the mold) tho i did a counter top by it self and then did a bowl type sink on top of it.made that out of concrete too. looked great and was fun to make.
I don't want to step on Expression's toes (they are awesome and so are their recipes!) but wanted to share the recipe I have used and been successful with. I did my kitchen with this. Ingredients: Basic Concrete Mix, Quickwall (cheap white cement with fibers already in the mix), Silica sand, VCAS (if needed), Plasticizer. 1 bag (50 lb) of basic concrete; 2 quarts of Quickwall; 2 quarts of sand; 1 quart VCAS (If needed); Plasticizer (as recommended).
Great video. Very informative. (The cutting towards the your hand bit at 1:08 was a little sketchy but the rest was well done.) Overall it looked really good once it was mounted and the hardware was installed. Thanks for posting it!
a lot of people don't discuss the mix of concrete so i hope this helps i go with quikcrete ready mix, raw Portland to add more strength and glass fibers with obviously water. hope this helps!
Nice job guys, at stone concepts of Anamosa, and Bettendorf, iowa. We do very simular products out of Indiana gray limestone and Silverdale. We also do dry and wet sanding up to a 600 grit polish. Your video was very intuitive
Dry packing concrete is a very easy way to create voids to fill with a different colored slurry, and works well with a basic concrete mix. Some of the expensive 'designer' concrete mix bags may not have large aggregate in them (pea gravel) but just have sand, cement, and a few other additives (such as a dry form of plasticizer/water reducer, VCAS (or fly ash), etc. You may want to experiment with making your own mixes with just sand, cement, fibers and the additives.
They are our PVC Countertop Forms. We are currently out of the Black style, and have a new batch coming being produced right now- an improved design, and in both 1.5" and 2" sizes. They should be available again on our website around June 2012.
Rolling any sealer is harder to get a nice finished end product. Rolling tends to leave roller lines, and has a greater chance to leave misc. particles in the sealer. HVLP spraying is the best way to go. If you must roll, use a short nap mohair roller, and practice makes perfect! Avoiding re-rolling the same area is key, so practice so you are good at getting it done with one pass, and then one back-roll pass to smooth the roller line. Using a heat gun can sometimes help pop bubbles too.
this is amazing! I do wonder if it's cheaper than buying a worktop hand having that fitted in. the concrete I am sure would be cheap but finding a someone skilled to do this and also the cost of their labour..... which is more cost effective? also I imagine the concrete would last alot longer?!
We use the cheapest, basic bag of concrete (usually under $3 a bag) from the hardware store just because it's easy. Mixing sand, gravel and cement isn't hard, but a pre-mixed bag is easier. We then add cement, fibers, plasticizer, and sometimes Polyplex and VCAS. Please look at our website (link is above in the description) and look on the left side for our section called CONCRETE MIX RECIPES. A $3 bag, and adding the additives is a cheap way to ensure you don't go broke, even if you mess up
You can use pretty much any material for your forms... but expect different texture finishes. What you don't want is any water to absorb out of the concrete, into the form. It will weaken the concrete, and can result in the surface of your concrete piece to basically just crumble off. A 4x8 sheet of melamine is around $30-$40 from any lumber/Home Depot store, which is usually less than a good quality plywood would be anyway.
I saw in a video else where they used wire mesh as reinforcement instead of re-bar. In another video I saw both wire mesh and re-bar combined where wire mesh was used in the interior and re-bar along the edges and borders. What's ur opinion/advice regarding the use of wire mesh as opposed to re-bar or with re-bar or none at all?
Obrigado pelo vídeo. Se possível , por favor, qual composição da argamassa? Que material foi usado para dar aspeto de pedra? E que material é placa azul ? Obrigado 👏
I made a similar countertop, but now I'm having trouble figuring out how to install it. The cabinets are surrounded on three sides by walls and the countertop weighs about 470 lbs. Any ideas on how to get the sink/countertop combo up and safely lowered into the cabinets?
Usually Home Depot or Lowes will stock it most places... or I'd imagine you could special order it through them. Or call around to a few building supply places near you- it's used a lot in concrete work/foundations, etc.
When topping off box surrounding sink, is the thickness of the bottom of the sink the same as the sides? Also is this just good old fashion concrete you use?
Baghdad Brad Btad how could I have missed that? 2 coats of walnut. Except I've never seen anyone achieve two distinct colors like they just using two regular coats of the same color and ratio. I appreciate you taking the time to share your expertise. Your comments with be of little or absolutely no value to anyone.
couldn't you use colored concrete initial pour so you don't have a color problem later? sort of a mixed color that would be clear through the concrete.
Might be the best video on concrete countertops and bazins I`ve seen on RUclips. Thanks
No toes being stepped on at all- that's great that you have a concrete recipe worth sharing. We always welcome anyone's information, especially if it helps improve a process, product, or just gives an alternative solution. Our information is usually aimed at the 'one solution for all' goal, so we expect many people will tweak and adjust how they find works best for them and their application.
4 suggestions: not criticizing, btw . It looks nice. :-)
1. If you make a more complete form work on the bottom, it will save you from chasing the slump and repacking it, as you fill and vibrate the mold. No open areas. This will also save you time afterwards by eliminating extra grind down of the unevenness. Put the bottom wing pieces on after you have the mold partially filled. You can simply fill the main slab, add your rebar or whatever you use, then put on the sink box and bottom wings to finish the filling. Once you do this once, you will see the difference.
2. If you use rebar that size, the slab thickness should be at least 1.75-2". Carbon fiber rods are better and will never rust.
3. Taping along the caulk line before you caulk will eliminate that tiny spooge line along the edge and give you a better top edge. That line left by the caulk overage after you smooth it out (2:13-2:21) requires a polish out and won't leave a completely true edge. Caulk is best when it is applied as you would on any other surface to leave a clean neat look--taped first. That top has a sculpted edge and hides it a bit. But on a smooth clean edge, you will see that line or a shadow later.
4. If you are using a colored cement, make sure the slurry matches exactly. The sacking process will naturally darken the color by the heat generated from the rubbing. Even on plain cement with no color. If a client chose a specific color, a bad slurry match will change the color and create complaints if they are picky. Test the slurry and let it dry first on a similar small piece.
How do I know this? I made precast tops and many architectural & cast stone precast elements for 25 years. Everyone learns by their mistakes and by having others give them tips. I'm also a union trained terrazzo mechanic and was in the trades over 40 years total. I've done huge custom jobs where the color and finish had to be flawless. I'm retired now. Just trying to help.
Everyone has different ways of making these tops. Might as well make them as good as you can. You may think you are saving time, but the little extra time to do these suggestions will save you potential hassles when it's time to get paid. With anything concrete, the small details in the mold work are what makes the finished product be as excellent as possible.
You can bet they will be picky with any kitchen or bathroom. Good luck!
Thank you so much!!!!! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Do you have email if I have any questions for you? Thanks again 👋
Now thats what I call a comment 👏👍
this is the best and most informed video I have seen on concrete countertops.
Finally a video of concrete counters that look's professional !!! Good Job !!!
Simply stunning. Both the work involved and the finished product. Thank you for sharing this.
It is helpful videos like this that keep me coming back to you guys for ordering product as well as learning new things. Way to stay above the others in my book. Keep up the good work!
Thats awesome!!! I have been looking at doing a cement vanity top for a bathroom I remodeling in my home, and this is the best work I have seen done!!! Keeps these videos coming!!!
gorgeous work, thank you for this! other projects spend a lot of time floating the top surface smooth while pouring countertop in place. it looks way easier to do as you have, pouring countertop upside down on a form.
Oh, that's so beautiful. My husband and I were thinking of doing granite or quartz, but someone linked us this video and some others, and now I'm thinking concrete would be great. So many things you can do with it!
Guess who's your new #1 customer? lol. Awesome vid, loved the fact that you name all the tools necessary and that you have everything for sale!
nice complete video. I been wanting to make a concrete counter for years.
I'm about to give it a whirl here soon.
Thanks
Those edge forms are fantastic...
i did do this with my home, good trick is too use plywood on a floor for your base then screw an orbital sander too it... to act as the vibrater... i did mine with it dyed a redish color and used broken blue glass on the surfice (bottom of the mold) tho i did a counter top by it self and then did a bowl type sink on top of it.made that out of concrete too. looked great and was fun to make.
Thanks, Expressions! I watched several of your vids before tackling my own project and they proved to be quite informative and helpful.
Absolutely beautiful, looks just like natural stone/marble. 👍
I don't want to step on Expression's toes (they are awesome and so are their recipes!) but wanted to share the recipe I have used and been successful with. I did my kitchen with this. Ingredients: Basic Concrete Mix, Quickwall (cheap white cement with fibers already in the mix), Silica sand, VCAS (if needed), Plasticizer.
1 bag (50 lb) of basic concrete; 2 quarts of Quickwall; 2 quarts of sand; 1 quart VCAS (If needed); Plasticizer (as recommended).
Super cool video and even better craftmanship.
Wow that turned out sweet ! Thats alot of work
Awesome video. That countertop came out amazing!!
wow a sink built into the counter. Great idea!
Great video. Very informative. (The cutting towards the your hand bit at 1:08 was a little sketchy but the rest was well done.) Overall it looked really good once it was mounted and the hardware was installed. Thanks for posting it!
That turned out awesome!
Thanks for taking the time to show your process and products. I prefer videos without narration.
Nice job guys! love how this is packed full of technique ! thank you
excellent outcome
😍 Wow! Beautiful is all I can say!
a lot of people don't discuss the mix of concrete so i hope this helps i go with quikcrete ready mix, raw Portland to add more strength and glass fibers with obviously water. hope this helps!
Nice job guys, at stone concepts of Anamosa, and Bettendorf, iowa. We do very simular products out of Indiana gray limestone and Silverdale. We also do dry and wet sanding up to a 600 grit polish. Your video was very intuitive
Look Amazing! Well Done!
Dry packing concrete is a very easy way to create voids to fill with a different colored slurry, and works well with a basic concrete mix. Some of the expensive 'designer' concrete mix bags may not have large aggregate in them (pea gravel) but just have sand, cement, and a few other additives (such as a dry form of plasticizer/water reducer, VCAS (or fly ash), etc. You may want to experiment with making your own mixes with just sand, cement, fibers and the additives.
Absolutely gorgeous !! bravo well done, best I've ever seen ,,,
Your video and work was BA! Thanks for sharing.
Best video yet.
That came out dope
Nicely done. Make it look easy.
Awesome tutorial, always appreciate the talent, and always look forward to your video post. Keep the movement going .
They are our PVC Countertop Forms. We are currently out of the Black style, and have a new batch coming being produced right now- an improved design, and in both 1.5" and 2" sizes. They should be available again on our website around June 2012.
This was absolutely beautiful to watch
Rolling any sealer is harder to get a nice finished end product. Rolling tends to leave roller lines, and has a greater chance to leave misc. particles in the sealer. HVLP spraying is the best way to go. If you must roll, use a short nap mohair roller, and practice makes perfect! Avoiding re-rolling the same area is key, so practice so you are good at getting it done with one pass, and then one back-roll pass to smooth the roller line. Using a heat gun can sometimes help pop bubbles too.
Excellent how to video! Good website as well.
That was cool and looks great.
Thank you for the video, it was super awesome.
awesome video and great results!
That really came out beautiful, nice work.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful
Odlicno i fantasticno. Hvala
Wow! Nice countertop!!
looks easy!! good work!! I like it a lot
this is amazing! I do wonder if it's cheaper than buying a worktop hand having that fitted in. the concrete I am sure would be cheap but finding a someone skilled to do this and also the cost of their labour..... which is more cost effective?
also I imagine the concrete would last alot longer?!
Your the best!!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
ABSOLUTELY!!!!...OUCH...one slip...and thats worst part of your hand to cut too!!!!!GOOD TIP right there
Nice....!
A little bit of work involved....but sweet. Especially the Acid effect.
AMAZING JOB
We use the cheapest, basic bag of concrete (usually under $3 a bag) from the hardware store just because it's easy. Mixing sand, gravel and cement isn't hard, but a pre-mixed bag is easier. We then add cement, fibers, plasticizer, and sometimes Polyplex and VCAS. Please look at our website (link is above in the description) and look on the left side for our section called CONCRETE MIX RECIPES. A $3 bag, and adding the additives is a cheap way to ensure you don't go broke, even if you mess up
Beautiful!!
Hola .Muy instructivo sus videos .Podrian mostear como hacen la bacha cuadrada plana ...
You can use pretty much any material for your forms... but expect different texture finishes. What you don't want is any water to absorb out of the concrete, into the form. It will weaken the concrete, and can result in the surface of your concrete piece to basically just crumble off. A 4x8 sheet of melamine is around $30-$40 from any lumber/Home Depot store, which is usually less than a good quality plywood would be anyway.
i want to create a concrete countertop without the sink, though. thanks for sharing!!!
Beautiful finish - Chris
Amazing! I totally want one now haha
Woa talking about great looking work!
GREAT VIDEO
No idea how I got here from a COD video but hey beautiful work.
Damn that came up good!
You should put a link to your website in the video description.
I saw in a video else where they used wire mesh as reinforcement instead of re-bar. In another video I saw both wire mesh and re-bar combined where wire mesh was used in the interior and re-bar along the edges and borders. What's ur opinion/advice regarding the use of wire mesh as opposed to re-bar or with re-bar or none at all?
great job
Obrigado pelo vídeo. Se possível , por favor, qual composição da argamassa? Que material foi usado para dar aspeto de pedra? E que material é placa azul ? Obrigado 👏
It doesn't seem to allow us to put a URL on RUclips. Our website is expressions-ltd com
1.5" and 2" thickness is the standard (1.5" minimum) for most concrete countertops. GFRC can be as thin as 3/4".
I made a similar countertop, but now I'm having trouble figuring out how to install it. The cabinets are surrounded on three sides by walls and the countertop weighs about 470 lbs. Any ideas on how to get the sink/countertop combo up and safely lowered into the cabinets?
Very very good video
I noticed you are using amperseal to seal the tops. I use amperseal, but I spray with an HVLP. Can you give me any tips on rolling? Thanks
Amazing!!!
do you wait for the acid stain to dry completely before adding subsequent coats? can you mix colors? thank you
How do you make edge forms? Are these just 1x4's or other thin pieces of wood? They look like some kind of laminated plastic.
Thanks, I am just trying to develop a process for resealing in a client's home. It sucks to use the sprayer.
Very good work but I lack more reinforcement irons
Great video. Where did you buy the foam? I haven’t been able to fine any that thick. All I’ve found is only 1” thick.
Usually Home Depot or Lowes will stock it most places... or I'd imagine you could special order it through them. Or call around to a few building supply places near you- it's used a lot in concrete work/foundations, etc.
What material did you use around the rounded corners of the sink cutout so the concrete would not stick to it? Nice color once cured and dried.
Holy fuck, this is beyond awesome. Sweeeeeeet!
0
freaking cool
Hello good video
wow super cool.
When topping off box surrounding sink, is the thickness of the bottom of the sink the same as the sides? Also is this just good old fashion concrete you use?
What is the proportion of sand, cement and water ? Any specific mix ? Congrats great video
What did you use to make the outer forms -- attached to the melamine board? Thanks for the video
that is so cool
very Nice
That's awesome
wow like magic
awesome!
I have watch many videos over the years. I like this one. Did you use two stains colors to achieve the variations or did you dilute?
did you watch the video? it says what stain they used and how many coats.
God people are so dumb...
Baghdad Brad Btad how could I have missed that? 2 coats of walnut. Except I've never seen anyone achieve two distinct colors like they just using two regular coats of the same color and ratio. I appreciate you taking the time to share your expertise. Your comments with be of little or absolutely no value to anyone.
Nice intergraded system, but what about the overflow prevention?
Those look amazing! I can't wait to have this installed in my kitchen. Anyone know the song name?
Have you tried using lightform concrete for your castings?
couldn't you use colored concrete initial pour so you don't have a color problem later? sort of a mixed color that would be clear through the concrete.
What style of mold did you use in the video. I notice you guys only sell the granite live edge in 3", is that a different style in the video?
SWEET!
Wtf that was awesome