Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Here is a link to the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in the videos- amzn.to/2av8s3q Here is the link to the Fieldpiece SDMN6 Dual Pressure Testing Manometer with Pump-amzn.to/2jyK5Ka Here is a link for the Supco Magnet Jumpers amzn.to/2gS4h6z Here is the link for the Irwin Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper amzn.to/2dGTj2V Other tool links can be found in the video description section. ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.
Very helpful video in helping me determine if the capacitor on my air compressor was bad! Following these guidelines I was able to determine the faulty capacitor, ordered a new one, received it yesterday and installed last night. Air compressor is running like a champ again! Thanks for the help!! $11 capacitor save me $350 in replacing the compressor!
This was so helpful in revealing that our capacitor did not need replacing. We ended up after a couple videos like this saving a lot of $$$ on a big costly repair by having a better idea what was wrong with our HVAC. It ended up being a blower motor. We are very grateful. Still a big repair but saved a ton. Thank you.
Pro tip: just keep a spare capacitor on hand and if your AC isn't turning on...just swap it in. They're pretty cheap and an HVAC company going to rip you off to do it. Mine die every 6 years or so in the desert.
Your fast reply would be greatly appreciated. Generally speaking, what is your opinion of different capacitors and their countrys of origin (where it is made) and different brands? Is USA made worth the price based on value / length of service? Of USA Capacitors what is better an... 1) AmRad for $31. ish? or a Titan HD for $16 ish? 2) what are your thoughts on the chinese brand that is $7.50 ish.?
Honestly I like the Titan's. If the cap is cheap or some off brand, I have had and seen problems with silly things like even the welds on the contacts for the tabs breaking as well as the caps failing too quickly, thanks!
One thing that jumped out at me is a tech saying uF. The symbol µ is not the letter U, it is the Greek letter "mu" and the symbol µ is used for micro as opposed to m for milli (mm = millimeter, µm = micrometer) . The video is easy enough to follow, but if you're writing instructions you may want to understand and properly communicate the terminology on the equipment you're using.
If I only want to remove / replace my AC condenser unit's run cap as preventative maintenance, is it "best practice" to discharge both the run and start caps or is the start cap isolated by the relay you mentioned? I will use a multimeter to be sure the run cap is at 0 volts after discharging tool is used. Just wondering if the start cap could somehow feed power back into the run cap during the time it takes to remove the mounting strap/bolt and wire connectors.
Can a (bad or weak) capacitor cause the air conditioner to: - work harder = pull more amps ? - make the fan run slower ? or is it just simply the capacitor is only bad .. when the fan or compressor is not working at all? Thank you very much in advance.
I have a dual capacitor. I want to get a second for emergency 45 +5 370v. my existing Fan as 2 connectors, Common has 4 connectors and Herm has 3 connectors to hook my wires to. If the one i want to purchase is marked S, C, and fan, does it matter if S, C, and Fan all have 4 connectors to wire to (instead of 4, 3, 2 connectors)? I thought the manufacturer may have included 4 connectors for each for convenience sake when connecting wires. Is that true?
Is it possible for a cap to be bad but test okay on a meter? My cap is rated for 50+15 and both checked out fine with my meter (50.27 and 15.22) but the symptoms I'm having on the unit all point to a bad cap.
I have a rv dometic 15k roof top that does a slow start buzzing/humming sound when I go to Auto and sometimes when I set the fan to high. I believe it may be the capacitor?? Now I know how to check it. Thanks
I've had issues with my compressor not wanting to start in my AC (a Concept 1000 2-ton unit), while the fan kicks on just fine. The compressor will attempt to start for about half a second, then nothing. About 5-7 minutes later it'll do it again, rinse, repeat. It uses a dual run capacitor, which is about 8 years old, but shows no sign of damage. When I checked with my Fluke multimeter it tested perfectly. Is is possible it could still be failing due to age in a way that wouldn't be indicated by a multimeter? As an experiment I popped a hard start on (just the cheap two-wire Spurco) and everything worked perfectly for a couple days. Now that the weather is cooled off I want to troubleshoot properly. Whether it's good or bad I'll also install a 5-2-1 kit to help it last until I upgrade the whole HVAC system.
Hi, my heat pump isn’t working and the 2 fuses in the sub panel were blown. I replaced with some new ones and the also got blown out. I removed the fuses and turned off the power and I hear like a humming sound on the capacitor even though it has no power. Could it be the capacitor that is bad?
The reading from c to herm was still ok for using the cap for the compressor but even though technically it could be done, I wouldn't do it because it is likely that the other side of the cap would fail. Some people just add another cap for the fan but just replace it with a new dual cap, thanks!
How do you tell if a 400v AC 22nf capacitor is bad? I'm not sure if it's because the capacitance is so low... I charged it with a 9v and it dropped almost instantly zero volts when I touched it with the multimeter. The only thing I can think is that the capacity is so low that testing it discharges it? I got it for a 0.1w capacitive dropper power supply on 250v AC but it seems to be totally dead when put inline with a bridge rectifier and an LED. Maybe I should get some 47nf capacitors to see if a theoretical 0.2w would make a difference. It works with a 470nf capacitor for a 2w output but I'd really like a low power nightlight.
Thanks. I found many cases that the capacitors are rusted and cannot read any spec. Is there any rule of thumb to calc capacitor size? Some articles say use compressor's FLA x 2650 / volts. Which not working. Compressors only have RLA provided. RLA usually >10A, which I get 115MFD for a small AC.
When I put one sensor on a terminal, and one on the side of the capacitor, it reads OL. This is for all 3 terminals. I also did this for a new capacitor out of the box. Same reading. Wouldn't that mean that the capacitor is bad? Or did I do something wrong?
I am buying a house with central air and when i did a home inspection the and the air conditioner turned on but did not provide any cooling effect whatsoever. After running for 30 minutes, the Delta reading was "O degrees". The seller says they changed two capacitors but my concern is that the AC was installed in the early 90's. Is replacing capacitors really solving the issue? Most Ac have a life span of 15 years and i live in NY where ac is only needed a few months out of the year. Is it possible to get a few more good years out of it before replacement is necessary?
You would need to have a tech come out to see if the compressor is even coming on. A capacitor lasts 5-10 years but it may be something much more costly than that, thanks!
When my air conditioner starts the lights in the house dim and the air conditioner makes a one second hard Buzz that is annoying. I suspect the start capacitor may be bad or inadequate. I have two hundred amp service to my house FYI. I want to install a hard start kit on my 3 year old Goodman air conditioner. There is a 1, 2 and 3 csru hard start kit for the respective tonnage of the model. I believe mine is a three-and-a-half ton which I believe would be the CSR U2. But could I install the larger one for the 5-ton or would that be bad?
3.5 to 5 ton is usually the range and 1.5 to 3 ton is the other range. If there guide is saying to just use the smaller one then just use that. However, it may just be a bad existing cap. Have you replace that after turning the power off? thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel thank you for your reply. I live in Minnesota so he super expensive heat pump High efficient models are not super required. Although they do look cool. After looking into my one second startup Buzz and light dimming and reading on the internet about hard starts. The hard start kit mainly helps against poor startup Supply, electro-motive back Force during motor spool up and increase milliseconds of amperage. Mine is a Goodman 2.5 ton gsx13 and I don't think it has a start capacitor? There is a run capacitor I'm sure, on the parts website there is a single capacitor listed available for the machine and I have not tested that capacitor so far. I have replaced the Supply breaker box with a Siemens fused on off switch instead of just a plain old pull out fuse. I'm beginning to believe that a soft start is more ideal for the health of the machine and will start my machine quieter. However I did purchase the hard start kit for a total of 35 bucks so I will just give it a shot and see what it does. But it does seem like a soft start is more likely what I want. Because other than that one second startup Buzz, it runs quiet while it is running and it is a quiet shut off. The line sets are not that long either. But maybe there is some pressure in those lines combined with the EMF the startup draw is probably what is making the noise. I have a couple of clamp meters and I will see what it's pulling before and after the hard start but like I said I think a soft start is sounding like the proper fix. Some of these soft starts are super interesting, some of them it seems like have a fuzzy logic self-learning algorithm ramp. They really range in price a lot. Not sure which brand or model would be the best.
I had a problem once kind of similar. What would happen was, the A/C would start but not in its full power. Half of the breaker board would loose power 24v. It turned out to be bad contact on the Main Wire coming from the meter. Glad i diagnosed it, if not it would of been thousands.
What symptoms does the compressor exhibit when the start and / or run capacitors are bad? Does it tend to trip a breaker, not start, slow start, run loudly, something else? Thank you very much!
It may have a buzzing noise and then no noise and then the buzzing noise again. This is due to the internal overload opening. The outdoor unit does not turn on.
@@acservicetechchannel Would that have been the cap buzzing, or the motor, or something else? Am I correct in assuming that the internal overload switch you are referring to is the one in the compressor? Thanks for the details!
That would be, first the 24v contactor buzzing due to 24v, the compressor buzzing because it is trying to start and the condenser fan motor buzzing because it is trying to start. This will do damage to those motors so I would turn the power off to the unit until a technician is called to check the system. It may be something simple like a capacitor but it could be something more, thanks!
My AC only blows warm air. Could be capacitor? It only costs $15 last time I replaced it. Also will wash out outside unit. Already replaced air filter . Any help would be appreciated. Heat index at 110 degrees wowza 🔥🥵
I have a trane XR14 with two capacitors. Both are single run caps. I have confirmed that the 70uF is bad. Can I replace it with a 70/5 dual run capacitor using the C and Herm terminals? I want to do this because it will take a week to get the single run capacitor.
AC Service Tech LLC thanks a bunch. Unfortunately The fan still isn’t running, so I’ll check the contactor and see if that’s the issue. I tried to Ohm out the fan, but there are six wires in a harness and I couldn’t get readings on any pairs of them, or our upstairs AC unit which uses the same model of fan motor, and I couldn’t get any readings on any of those pairs either.
My AC just stopped working and the digital things don’t turn on. On the capacitor one of the wires has black on it. Could that be the cause of why my AC has no power at all
AC Service Tech LLC thank you. My AC Unit outside is out of wack. The previous home owners jerry rigged it. According to my manual, I have a dual capacitor which has three prongs. When I opened the panel, only the Herm and Common has connectors to it and nothing was connected to the fan (strange I know). As I was looking at the capacitor, I noticed there was an oval 2 inch 2 prong capacitor zip tied connected to 2 cables, I ran the cables and noticed it was actually connected to the fan. The capacitor read "5 uf 370v". I'm assuming the previous owners just added a mini capacitor supporting the fan instead of buying a new DUAL capacitor. Should I just buy a new mini capacitor since the meter reading is .72mfd. The main dual capacitor reads at 40mfd which I'm assuming it works. What are your thoughts on this?
Honestly, I would just replace it with a dual run capacitor. Make sure you have the right ones installed first by just reading on the side of the fan motor and on the side of the compressor unless this tag is wore off. If you buy a 440vac cap, it will last longer than a 370vac. They mostly now make them 370/440vac so we don't have to stock as much but we replace with the same voltage or higher. If it is higher, it just means more insulation value which leads to longer life expectancy. Follow the wiring diagram with the wiring unless the fan was switched from a 3 wire to a 4 wire one. Make sure the power is all off when doing this. If it is a 4 wire which has replaced a 3 wire then check this video out- ruclips.net/video/0U_bpumqCRI/видео.html - thanks
If you don't know what multimeter settings to use to test a capacitor you probably shouldn't be doing any electrical work before watching a multimeter 101 video. Maybe tell yourself "please focus" on how to get educated. Also, the guy in the video says to set the meter to microfarads so he doesn't need to show what the setting is.
Okay you lost me... you said to go Common (red) to fan (black) (but later you said go fan to common instead) but then you went herm (red) to common (black) and switched the color you used for common... are the charges different or something when going from common to 'X' (fan or herm)? Please help...
What version? You may need to press the select button until mfd or uF is seen It also may not be good for testing caps. Some 69 versions don't have the setting for caps, thanks
Hey bud, love your informative videos. My blower wasn't blowing, unless started by hand; so I replaced the capacitor (only 4 years old) on my Trane XB80, assuming that was the problem. The blower is still only starting by hand. Any ideas?
Sound like if the capacitor is wired correctly and the right size and if you have the correct voltage going to the motor and cap then you may have an open winding. It would likely mean you need a new blower motor. Do you have a resistance reading from one cap wire to the other cap wire with the power off and wires disconnected? If 0.L ohm reading then bad motor.
Thanks acservicetech. I was wondering if you have time, could you do a video on putting the capacitors in parallel? to make different mfd ratings. Thanks again
I have a dometic AC unit 115 volt. The power lead going to the pump is only putting out .003 volts! And it's. 115 volt pump. What could be causing that it's brand new. I am a test pond guy at the boat factory I work at. Had lots of issues that I have seen from vendors but not this one. Can't wait to hear my boss in the morning wondering why that boat isn't done😶. It won't be to bad to just replace the ac unit( as long as there is one in the warehouse). Just allot easier if maybe they (as in dometic) had a fast on connector connected to a wrong spot. Thanks
@@acservicetechchannel thanks I will look more closely at the panel see if I can find a relay. Can't see the back side of the circuit board to track power runs but I should be able to find something. Thanks for the speedy reply!!! I appreciate it!!!😃
I just had the A/C guy tell me my capacitor is bad because the top is rusted just like the one you pointed. However it doesn't have a mushroom top and the connectors looked ok. Did end up paying for something I didn't? And he showed me the steam valve was bad by unplugging the tube. Not sure what I was looking at.
Hey man, my pressure washer is not working properly and I hear a humming noise possibly coming from the capacitor. The capacitor has only 2 terminals so it is different from the ones shown in the video.Mind giving me some advice? Tks
They are pretty cheap, you could purchase a new one on amazon but this video shows how to test them. Usually noise doesn't come from the capacitor but something near it such as the motor, thanks
acservicetech i see. So what if the room cools but doesnt stay that way for while, (from feeling and not looking at thermometer) is not a condition of failed capacitor?
You really would have to have a tech start testing. It could be the thermostat, refrigerant charge, or anything without having some details. Usually a capacitor won't allow the motor to turn on sometimes and not other times, thanks
@@dennydeckerful they also reccommended putting wood on top in the winter to keep snow from sitting on top and rusting out parts. I noticed it was rusted near connection.
Yes but also realize that I may change 10 capacitors in a single given day. These happened to be the ones I grabbed out of the pile. It does seem that the older caps last a bit longer just due to the dielectric used at that time which has now been phased out! Thanks!
There's no way, you can convince me, that this guy doesn't love to hear himself talk. So much repeated dialogue and dialogue on things irrelevant to this whole process 🤣🤣🤣
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
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For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Here is a link to the UEI DL389 Multimeter used in the videos- amzn.to/2av8s3q
Here is the link to the Fieldpiece SDMN6 Dual Pressure Testing Manometer with Pump-amzn.to/2jyK5Ka
Here is a link for the Supco Magnet Jumpers amzn.to/2gS4h6z
Here is the link for the Irwin Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper amzn.to/2dGTj2V
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
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It seems like you had the red probe touching the common and the black probe touching the fan. Does that make a difference?
I was about to pay a guy $150 to come diagnose thank you for the video! $25 fix and it’s running good as new
Very helpful video in helping me determine if the capacitor on my air compressor was bad! Following these guidelines I was able to determine the faulty capacitor, ordered a new one, received it yesterday and installed last night. Air compressor is running like a champ again! Thanks for the help!! $11 capacitor save me $350 in replacing the compressor!
This was so helpful in revealing that our capacitor did not need replacing. We ended up after a couple videos like this saving a lot of $$$ on a big costly repair by having a better idea what was wrong with our HVAC. It ended up being a blower motor. We are very grateful. Still a big repair but saved a ton. Thank you.
Mwrk😂
One of the best videos I've seen for some time, not just hvac related. Very concise and informative. Killin it!
Pro tip: just keep a spare capacitor on hand and if your AC isn't turning on...just swap it in. They're pretty cheap and an HVAC company going to rip you off to do it. Mine die every 6 years or so in the desert.
Planned obsolescence, those capacitors are only designed to last like 5 years. Good practice.
Thanks, this helped me diagnose and solve my problem.Very much appreciated.
I've learned so much from you. I appreciate your videos. They are so informative. Blessings to you. !
Thanks thinker too!
Excellent very clear Thanks for posting
Glad you enjoyed it
Simple and to the point. I will remember this , great lesson. THANKS FRIEND
Glad you enjoyed the video!
Great video because my A/C unit doesn’t come on at all as of right now . Can’t afford a professional so I’m looking for resources for myself. Thanks
The "U" beside the "F' that you're reading is not a U at all. Its the Greek letter symbolizing "micro", the F is farads.
Your fast reply would be greatly appreciated. Generally speaking, what is your opinion of different capacitors and their countrys of origin (where it is made) and different brands? Is USA made worth the price based on value / length of service? Of USA Capacitors what is better an...
1) AmRad for $31. ish? or a Titan HD for $16 ish?
2) what are your thoughts on the chinese brand that is $7.50 ish.?
Honestly I like the Titan's. If the cap is cheap or some off brand, I have had and seen problems with silly things like even the welds on the contacts for the tabs breaking as well as the caps failing too quickly, thanks!
Do I have to disconnect/remove the capacitor to check it with my newly purchased multimeter, please? Thx for the video.
One thing that jumped out at me is a tech saying uF. The symbol µ is not the letter U, it is the Greek letter "mu" and the symbol µ is used for micro as opposed to m for milli (mm = millimeter, µm = micrometer) . The video is easy enough to follow, but if you're writing instructions you may want to understand and properly communicate the terminology on the equipment you're using.
Yep, I had the same thought. Otherwise great video.
Thank you for this awesome video sure helped getting my ac up and running
If I only want to remove / replace my AC condenser unit's run cap as preventative maintenance, is it "best practice" to discharge both the run and start caps or is the start cap isolated by the relay you mentioned? I will use a multimeter to be sure the run cap is at 0 volts after discharging tool is used. Just wondering if the start cap could somehow feed power back into the run cap during the time it takes to remove the mounting strap/bolt and wire connectors.
Nice video and helpful explanation of why a start cap could still be energized whereas a run cap likely wouldn't be
Anyone know if the Klein MM400 had this setting?
How can you tell which is the common if the top is rusted? Mine went out last week after 24 years.
Common has the most tabs on it.
learned some thing today. thanks man :)
Thanks Haja!
Very helpful. Thank you!!!
Can this diagnosis be done still on the unit with all wires attached as long as the fuse is pulled and it’s grounded out? Thx👊🏼
Nice video
Thanks
Can a (bad or weak) capacitor cause the air conditioner to:
- work harder = pull more amps ?
- make the fan run slower ?
or is it just simply the capacitor is only bad .. when the fan or compressor is not working at all?
Thank you very much in advance.
It is usually the fan will not start but can be running slow and hot depending on how bad the cap is, thanks!
I have a dual capacitor. I want to get a second for emergency 45 +5 370v. my existing Fan as 2 connectors, Common has 4 connectors and Herm has 3 connectors to hook my wires to.
If the one i want to purchase is marked S, C, and fan, does it matter if S, C, and Fan all have 4 connectors to wire to (instead of 4, 3, 2 connectors)?
I thought the manufacturer may have included 4 connectors for each for convenience sake when connecting wires. Is that true?
Is it possible for a cap to be bad but test okay on a meter? My cap is rated for 50+15 and both checked out fine with my meter (50.27 and 15.22) but the symptoms I'm having on the unit all point to a bad cap.
I have a rv dometic 15k roof top that does a slow start buzzing/humming sound when I go to Auto and sometimes when I set the fan to high. I believe it may be the capacitor?? Now I know how to check it. Thanks
What setting do I have my multimeter in?
It will say either uF MFD Cap Capacitance, thanks
Thanks again great instructor.
Thank you!
I've had issues with my compressor not wanting to start in my AC (a Concept 1000 2-ton unit), while the fan kicks on just fine. The compressor will attempt to start for about half a second, then nothing. About 5-7 minutes later it'll do it again, rinse, repeat. It uses a dual run capacitor, which is about 8 years old, but shows no sign of damage. When I checked with my Fluke multimeter it tested perfectly. Is is possible it could still be failing due to age in a way that wouldn't be indicated by a multimeter? As an experiment I popped a hard start on (just the cheap two-wire Spurco) and everything worked perfectly for a couple days. Now that the weather is cooled off I want to troubleshoot properly. Whether it's good or bad I'll also install a 5-2-1 kit to help it last until I upgrade the whole HVAC system.
What did it end up being? If not capacitor then I'm guessing a relay.
What is the setting on your multi meter when checking.
Hi, my heat pump isn’t working and the 2 fuses in the sub panel were blown. I replaced with some new ones and the also got blown out. I removed the fuses and turned off the power and I hear like a humming sound on the capacitor even though it has no power.
Could it be the capacitor that is bad?
When checking dual capacitors do all sides have to be close to the mfd that saids on the capacitor?
What is the multimeter set at?
What are the symptoms of a failed capacitor?
My table fan can run at speed 3 but not at the lower speed. Is it due to capasitor problem? The shaft is ok
Good video, but where did you say to set the multi meter?
Capacitance, mfd, uF, thanks
Hardly a setting you find on cheap multimeters. thx for the video.
That is awesome that you are Serving the Lord! Yeah I like the uei multimeters due to the price and longevity.
Great video. I am still confused on why the last capacitor can still be used even though you didn’t get a reading from C to FAN. Please explain
The reading from c to herm was still ok for using the cap for the compressor but even though technically it could be done, I wouldn't do it because it is likely that the other side of the cap would fail. Some people just add another cap for the fan but just replace it with a new dual cap, thanks!
They're cheap, if replacing one, replace the other at the same time.
My air conditioner compressor works on and off is it possible it’s the capacitor going out?
How do you tell if a 400v AC 22nf capacitor is bad? I'm not sure if it's because the capacitance is so low... I charged it with a 9v and it dropped almost instantly zero volts when I touched it with the multimeter. The only thing I can think is that the capacity is so low that testing it discharges it? I got it for a 0.1w capacitive dropper power supply on 250v AC but it seems to be totally dead when put inline with a bridge rectifier and an LED. Maybe I should get some 47nf capacitors to see if a theoretical 0.2w would make a difference. It works with a 470nf capacitor for a 2w output but I'd really like a low power nightlight.
Thanks. I found many cases that the capacitors are rusted and cannot read any spec. Is there any rule of thumb to calc capacitor size? Some articles say use compressor's FLA x 2650 / volts. Which not working. Compressors only have RLA provided. RLA usually >10A, which I get 115MFD for a small AC.
data plate on inside of ac unit
Hello! Hope all is well. I am getting an OL reading on a 4mfd fan cap. What does that mean?
Make sure to dig in with the probes past the rust to the bare metal. If you still read 0.L then the cap is bad, thanks
When I put one sensor on a terminal, and one on the side of the capacitor, it reads OL.
This is for all 3 terminals. I also did this for a new capacitor out of the box. Same reading. Wouldn't that mean that the capacitor is bad? Or did I do something wrong?
Sounds like you were checking "resistance" not "micro farad"
I am buying a house with central air and when i did a home inspection the and the air conditioner turned on but did not provide any cooling effect whatsoever. After running for 30
minutes, the Delta reading was "O degrees". The seller says they changed two capacitors but my concern is that the AC was installed in the early 90's. Is replacing capacitors really solving the issue? Most Ac have a life span of 15 years and i live in NY where ac is only needed a few months out of the year. Is it possible to get a few more good years out of it before replacement is necessary?
You would need to have a tech come out to see if the compressor is even coming on. A capacitor lasts 5-10 years but it may be something much more costly than that, thanks!
When my air conditioner starts the lights in the house dim and the air conditioner makes a one second hard Buzz that is annoying. I suspect the start capacitor may be bad or inadequate. I have two hundred amp service to my house FYI. I want to install a hard start kit on my 3 year old Goodman air conditioner. There is a 1, 2 and 3 csru hard start kit for the respective tonnage of the model. I believe mine is a three-and-a-half ton which I believe would be the CSR U2. But could I install the larger one for the 5-ton or would that be bad?
3.5 to 5 ton is usually the range and 1.5 to 3 ton is the other range. If there guide is saying to just use the smaller one then just use that. However, it may just be a bad existing cap. Have you replace that after turning the power off? thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel thank you for your reply. I live in Minnesota so he super expensive heat pump High efficient models are not super required. Although they do look cool. After looking into my one second startup Buzz and light dimming and reading on the internet about hard starts. The hard start kit mainly helps against poor startup Supply, electro-motive back Force during motor spool up and increase milliseconds of amperage. Mine is a Goodman 2.5 ton gsx13 and I don't think it has a start capacitor? There is a run capacitor I'm sure, on the parts website there is a single capacitor listed available for the machine and I have not tested that capacitor so far. I have replaced the Supply breaker box with a Siemens fused on off switch instead of just a plain old pull out fuse. I'm beginning to believe that a soft start is more ideal for the health of the machine and will start my machine quieter. However I did purchase the hard start kit for a total of 35 bucks so I will just give it a shot and see what it does. But it does seem like a soft start is more likely what I want. Because other than that one second startup Buzz, it runs quiet while it is running and it is a quiet shut off. The line sets are not that long either. But maybe there is some pressure in those lines combined with the EMF the startup draw is probably what is making the noise. I have a couple of clamp meters and I will see what it's pulling before and after the hard start but like I said I think a soft start is sounding like the proper fix. Some of these soft starts are super interesting, some of them it seems like have a fuzzy logic self-learning algorithm ramp. They really range in price a lot. Not sure which brand or model would be the best.
I had a problem once kind of similar. What would happen was, the A/C would start but not in its full power. Half of the breaker board would loose power 24v. It turned out to be bad contact on the Main Wire coming from the meter. Glad i diagnosed it, if not it would of been thousands.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and blessings and more blessings to you and your family in Jesus name Amen ❤️🙏
What is the ntineyer set to?
if I couldn't find the same exact rating:
- should i get (higher or lower) µF = MFD = micro farad ?
- should i get (higher or lower) voltage rating ?
exact same MFD rating which is micro farad. The voltage can be the same or higher, thanks
You can also check for continuity
What symptoms does the compressor exhibit when the start and / or run capacitors are bad? Does it tend to trip a breaker, not start, slow start, run loudly, something else?
Thank you very much!
It may have a buzzing noise and then no noise and then the buzzing noise again. This is due to the internal overload opening. The outdoor unit does not turn on.
@@acservicetechchannel Would that have been the cap buzzing, or the motor, or something else? Am I correct in assuming that the internal overload switch you are referring to is the one in the compressor?
Thanks for the details!
That would be, first the 24v contactor buzzing due to 24v, the compressor buzzing because it is trying to start and the condenser fan motor buzzing because it is trying to start. This will do damage to those motors so I would turn the power off to the unit until a technician is called to check the system. It may be something simple like a capacitor but it could be something more, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Thanks again! The detail is helpful!
My AC only blows warm air. Could be capacitor? It only costs $15 last time I replaced it. Also will wash out outside unit. Already replaced air filter . Any help would be appreciated. Heat index at 110 degrees wowza 🔥🥵
I would say use a resistor to drain the capacitance and not a screw driver. But other than that the video was very educational
good video. Thanks.
Thank you for your Comment!
I have a trane XR14 with two capacitors. Both are single run caps. I have confirmed that the 70uF is bad. Can I replace it with a 70/5 dual run capacitor using the C and Herm terminals? I want to do this because it will take a week to get the single run capacitor.
Absolutely you can. You don't have to use the condenser fan terminal, thanks
AC Service Tech LLC thanks a bunch. Unfortunately The fan still isn’t running, so I’ll check the contactor and see if that’s the issue. I tried to Ohm out the fan, but there are six wires in a harness and I couldn’t get readings on any pairs of them, or our upstairs AC unit which uses the same model of fan motor, and I couldn’t get any readings on any of those pairs either.
My AC just stopped working and the digital things don’t turn on. On the capacitor one of the wires has black on it. Could that be the cause of why my AC has no power at all
Since the fan was not reading 5mf and the herm was reading nearing 40, you still need to replace it?
Yes I would certainly advise replacing it. Once one side goes, the other is soon to follow, thanks
AC Service Tech LLC thank you. My AC Unit outside is out of wack. The previous home owners jerry rigged it. According to my manual, I have a dual capacitor which has three prongs. When I opened the panel, only the Herm and Common has connectors to it and nothing was connected to the fan (strange I know). As I was looking at the capacitor, I noticed there was an oval 2 inch 2 prong capacitor zip tied connected to 2 cables, I ran the cables and noticed it was actually connected to the fan. The capacitor read "5 uf 370v". I'm assuming the previous owners just added a mini capacitor supporting the fan instead of buying a new DUAL capacitor. Should I just buy a new mini capacitor since the meter reading is .72mfd. The main dual capacitor reads at 40mfd which I'm assuming it works. What are your thoughts on this?
Honestly, I would just replace it with a dual run capacitor. Make sure you have the right ones installed first by just reading on the side of the fan motor and on the side of the compressor unless this tag is wore off. If you buy a 440vac cap, it will last longer than a 370vac. They mostly now make them 370/440vac so we don't have to stock as much but we replace with the same voltage or higher. If it is higher, it just means more insulation value which leads to longer life expectancy. Follow the wiring diagram with the wiring unless the fan was switched from a 3 wire to a 4 wire one. Make sure the power is all off when doing this. If it is a 4 wire which has replaced a 3 wire then check this video out- ruclips.net/video/0U_bpumqCRI/видео.html - thanks
What if the capacitor is reading OL ?
You don't show the multimeter settings. Focus please.
"Next time, could you show what setting you're using on the multimeter? Thanks!" "Focus please".... wow
"Focus please""😂😂 I'm dead, that was a food one
If you don't know what multimeter settings to use to test a capacitor you probably shouldn't be doing any electrical work before watching a multimeter 101 video. Maybe tell yourself "please focus" on how to get educated. Also, the guy in the video says to set the meter to microfarads so he doesn't need to show what the setting is.
Okay you lost me... you said to go Common (red) to fan (black) (but later you said go fan to common instead) but then you went herm (red) to common (black) and switched the color you used for common... are the charges different or something when going from common to 'X' (fan or herm)? Please help...
I have a uei meter when I turn It to ohms it has a small M & ohm icon is that good to test caps with?? I lost my manual
What version? You may need to press the select button until mfd or uF is seen It also may not be good for testing caps. Some 69 versions don't have the setting for caps, thanks
I can't tell what pole is what there are no markings on my new fan cap
what if your heat pump is running but no cold air ia coming out?
What about 440/370VAC/B means?
Thank you
Thanks Chris!
Anyone know if the Klein MM400 had this setting?
Hey bud, love your informative videos. My blower wasn't blowing, unless started by hand; so I replaced the capacitor (only 4 years old) on my Trane XB80, assuming that was the problem. The blower is still only starting by hand. Any ideas?
Sound like if the capacitor is wired correctly and the right size and if you have the correct voltage going to the motor and cap then you may have an open winding. It would likely mean you need a new blower motor. Do you have a resistance reading from one cap wire to the other cap wire with the power off and wires disconnected? If 0.L ohm reading then bad motor.
Thanks acservicetech. I was wondering if you have time, could you do a video on putting the capacitors in parallel? to make different mfd ratings. Thanks again
Here it is --- ruclips.net/video/XVF4cR-1ceU/видео.html&index=11
I have a dometic AC unit 115 volt. The power lead going to the pump is only putting out .003 volts! And it's. 115 volt pump. What could be causing that it's brand new. I am a test pond guy at the boat factory I work at. Had lots of issues that I have seen from vendors but not this one. Can't wait to hear my boss in the morning wondering why that boat isn't done😶. It won't be to bad to just replace the ac unit( as long as there is one in the warehouse). Just allot easier if maybe they (as in dometic) had a fast on connector connected to a wrong spot. Thanks
It sounds like a relay or contactor is not allowing power through, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel thanks I will look more closely at the panel see if I can find a relay. Can't see the back side of the circuit board to track power runs but I should be able to find something.
Thanks for the speedy reply!!! I appreciate it!!!😃
My capacitor only has 2 places to test. What’s the difference in the capacitor
I just had the A/C guy tell me my capacitor is bad because the top is rusted just like the one you pointed. However it doesn't have a mushroom top and the connectors looked ok. Did end up paying for something I didn't? And he showed me the steam valve was bad by unplugging the tube. Not sure what I was looking at.
If he measured the capacitance with a multimeter in micro farads and saw it was out of range, it is bad even if there were no visual signs, thanks
What is mfd?
alway's waiting for your excellent video's thank's partner for sharing!!!!!
I always appreciate your Comments! More to come!
Hey man, my pressure washer is not working properly and I hear a humming noise possibly coming from the capacitor. The capacitor has only 2 terminals so it is different from the ones shown in the video.Mind giving me some advice? Tks
They are pretty cheap, you could purchase a new one on amazon but this video shows how to test them. Usually noise doesn't come from the capacitor but something near it such as the motor, thanks
This guy def is an hvac tech. Tests a cap, it tests fine, but says it needs to be replaced anyway cause it's going to fail soon. Hmmm.... :O
It was a dual cap, one side bad, the other good. I would replace it too.
What are the symptoms of a bad capacitor on the cooling of the room? I cant access the outside compressor.
Actually there are no symptoms usually. All the sudden, they break, thanks
acservicetech i see. So what if the room cools but doesnt stay that way for while, (from feeling and not looking at thermometer) is not a condition of failed capacitor?
You really would have to have a tech start testing. It could be the thermostat, refrigerant charge, or anything without having some details. Usually a capacitor won't allow the motor to turn on sometimes and not other times, thanks
My multi doesn't have a MFD
To be honest I replace the capacitors in my home systems every 5-10 years as routine Maintenance. They’re cheap.
That is a good pm thing to do during that time frame, awesome!
Anything recommended to extend the life? just had one replaced today.
@@CocoChanelle-1 buy a backup for $ 15 and save this video. Installs in 10 minutes or less. Mine just went out after 24 years, charged me $268.
@@dennydeckerful thank you.
@@dennydeckerful they also reccommended putting wood on top in the winter to keep snow from sitting on top and rusting out parts. I noticed it was rusted near connection.
Notice who made the failed caps.
Yes but also realize that I may change 10 capacitors in a single given day. These happened to be the ones I grabbed out of the pile. It does seem that the older caps last a bit longer just due to the dielectric used at that time which has now been phased out! Thanks!
Go to the moon with all that tutorial 😂😂😂
Move the meter so someone can see it.
can't see the meter reading bad camera man
There's no way, you can convince me, that this guy doesn't love to hear himself talk. So much repeated dialogue and dialogue on things irrelevant to this whole process 🤣🤣🤣
: )
Thanks!
I don't get it, badly explained
dude fix your fucking audio... do you know how far i had to raise the volume to be able to hear what you are saying